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Weigela is a deciduous shrub of the honeysuckle family that can effectively decorate your garden. Weigela will delight you with pink, red, cream, yellow and white bell flowers twice a year - in spring and at the end of summer. It is noteworthy that the color of the inflorescences during flowering is not the same: the newly opened corollas are pale, but gradually they gain strength and become brighter.

Planting weigela

The best time for planting is March-April. When planted in autumn, the seedlings do not have time to take root and die, so if you purchased plants in the fall, there is no need to rush - wait until spring. Dig the weigela in an inclined position and cover the crown with earth. When purchasing, ask about the age of the plant - specimens that are more than 3.5 years old adapt well to new conditions.
Choose your planting area carefully. Weigela is photophilous, warmth and abundance of sun - prerequisites For full development. Leaves and flowers are easily damaged by the wind - the planting site must be reliably protected from northern winds.
The shrub prefers loose, fertile soil and does not tolerate soil compaction or waterlogging. The soil should be loosened regularly, preferably after each watering. If this is not possible, then cover the ground with peat or sawdust.
Place gravel and sand (layer thickness - 15 cm) at the bottom of a planting hole 50 cm deep; plant the bushes at a distance of 3 meters from each other. Do not deepen the root hole. The soil mixture should include sand, turf and humus in a ratio of 2:2:1.

Weigela propagation

The most common method of propagating weigela is cuttings. Wood cuttings are ineffective, and you will have to wait a long time for results - 5 years, so propagation using green cuttings is most often used. It is better to carry it out before the onset of kidney formation, i.e. in April-May. The length of the cuttings is 10-12 cm. Make the cut straight, leave two leaves on the cutting.

After treatment with a growth stimulator - heteroauxin (150 mg/liter of water), the shoots are left in a dark room at a temperature of 20 degrees for 12 hours. Then they are planted for rooting in a sand-peat mixture, sprinkled with sand and covered. plastic film. Planting depth - 0.5 cm. Water the plant twice a day. Roots appear within 25-40 days. Transplant to permanent place recommended after 1.5 years.
Weigela can also be propagated by seeds. Preliminary preparation no starting material required. Plant the seeds in boxes filled with sand and fertile soil. Surface sown seeds are sprinkled with sand and covered with glass. Expect germination in 3 weeks.

Weigela care

For better growth bushes are systematically pruned, diseased and dry branches are removed. The optimal time for sanitary pruning is spring or early summer. Plots with withered flowers shortened, and the cut areas are treated with garden varnish (can be found over the counter).
Young weigela needs your care. For the winter, wrap the bushes with kraft paper or modern covering material - spunbond. Sprinkle the tree trunk circle with spruce branches or dry leaves. These simple measures will help the plant survive severe frosts. If after winter the plant is severely frozen, then abundant watering (10 liters of water per bush) will correct the situation. The same becomes mandatory in hot weather.

Mature shrubs require much less attention. In the spring, after heavy snowfall, shake the snow off the branches. A frame made of wooden slats, carefully installed in the fall. In winters with little snow, weigela is covered with lutrasil or roofing felt.
The soil is fed twice a year. The first time - in early spring, the second time - during the formation of buds, in early June. Potassium sulfate, double superphosphate, and urea are used for this.
When the first signs of bacterial damage to leaves appear (yellowish, purple lesions, premature falling, white coating on the upper side of the sheet) a mixture of lime milk and copper sulfate(Bordeaux mixture). Will get rid of rot and rust spots Topsin, which is used to irrigate the bush (during the growth period, 1% solution is used, before buds open - 3%). Infusions of hot pepper, garlic, wormwood, and potato tops are effective against pests.

Types of weigela

1. Weigela early (W. Praecox). Densely leafy shrub with gray bark, reaching a height of 2 meters. Flowers - drooping, pink shade. Blooms in May. Flowering time is 15-25 days. Looks advantageous in the form of untrimmed hedges;

Weigela Middendorffiana (W. Middendorffiana). A plant with ascending shoots 1.5 meters high. The flowers are creamy white or yellowish with an orange center. It blooms 2 times a year (autumn and spring) for 30 days. Used in group and single plantings along the edges, under trees, on lawns;

3.
Weigela flowering (W. Florida). A shrub with bright green leaves that persist even in winter, it grows up to 3 meters. Large tubular flowers, collected in small inflorescences, are pink at the edges and white inside. This type of weigela blooms in May-early June;

4.
Korean weigela (W. Coraeensis). Reaches a height of 1.5 meters. The bells, located in semi-umbrella inflorescences, are first white, then pink, and then acquire a rich carmine hue. Blooms in early June, flowering duration is 10-15 days;

5.
Weigela (W. Floribunda). One of the fastest growing species, reaching 3 meters in height. The drooping flowers are red at first and then lose intensity and become light pink. Blooms in May.

It is better to place plants in groups of 3-5 specimens, which match the color of the corollas, the size and shape of the bushes and coincide in terms of flowering. The area between the bushes can be planted with fern, astilbe or hosta.

Weigela blooming is one of the brightest and most spectacular perennial shrubs. IN last years this plant has become widespread not only among landscape designers and the creators of park ensembles, but also in country and personal plots. Weigela shrub comes from South East Asia, got its name from the German chemist, botanist and pharmacologist Christian von Weigel. Today, fifteen species of this plant are known, of which 7 are grown as cultivated plant. About ten specially bred decorative varieties weigels decorate squares and parks, summer cottages and flower beds, and are used in Japanese gardens and rock gardens, when creating rocky slides and decorative hedges. There are cases where the weigela bush bloomed profusely for thirty years.

When getting acquainted with this amazing and fabulously beautiful plant, amateur gardeners are always interested in the question of how to propagate weigela, how easy it is to grow and how tenacious the young shoots are.

Reproduction

Of course, the simplest and reliable way to enjoy the flowering of weigela in your garden - buy a grown seedling. The best way 3.5 year old seedlings, planted in sunny and half-shaded areas and receiving regular moderate watering, adapt to new conditions and take root. But in the tradition of our summer residents, it is still not buying a ready-made plant, but growing it independently from seeds or cuttings. Remember with what pride the neighbors summer cottages showed each other their gardening achievements and how generously they shared advice, seeds, seedlings and cuttings.

Weigela propagates in two ways: by seeds and cuttings. Propagation by seeds is not a very labor-intensive process, which, however, requires two to three years of patience from the gardener. Experienced gardeners It is not recommended to sow seeds in boxes with sand and grow sprouts. It is much easier to leave the seeds of a faded shrub that have awakened in the fall in the ground, and in the spring to leave the strongest shoots and grow them for two years, and then transplant them to a permanent place. This is a simple method, but not the most reliable. Therefore, experienced flower growers prefer propagating weigela, like many other ornamental shrubs, vegetatively, that is, by cuttings.

Preparation and planting of cuttings

Vegetative propagation of weigela is carried out using summer cuttings or last year's half-woody shoots. Cuttings are carried out in April - early May until buds form on the stems. Young semi-woody stems are cut off sharp knife and divide them into cuttings 10-15 centimeters long, completely removing the leaves from them or leaving no more than a third of the leaf on top. It is advisable to cut cuttings in cloudy weather to avoid excessive evaporation of moisture from the stem. Cuttings should be cut straight. The cuttings are soaked in water for two hours and then treated with a growth stimulator. For this, they use “Kornevin”, “Heteroauxin”, “Epin” and many other agrochemicals, which are available in abundance on the market. The treatment is carried out for 8-12 hours, keeping the cuttings in a warm, dark room.

After treatment with a growth stimulator, the prepared cuttings are planted in a mixture of sand and peat for subsequent rooting. The cuttings should be planted at an angle, deepening them into the prepared soil by 1-2 centimeters. Each cutting must be covered on top glass jar or plastic bottle with a cut bottom. It is also possible to simultaneously cover the area with the planted cuttings with polyethylene or make a low mini-greenhouse. In summer, in warm weather, cuttings must be ventilated daily by removing jars or film from them. In addition, plants need daily watering. The ideal solution is to create an artificial fog effect in the greenhouse.

If the cuttings are properly cared for, after about a month they begin to develop root system. To improve the growth and development of a young plant and stimulate its tillering, it is necessary at first to remove shoots that may grow from the cuttings. A young plant can be transplanted to a permanent place a year and a half after cuttings, and soon it will begin to delight the gardener with abundant, bright flowering. Biennial plants begin to bloom.

Prevention of plant diseases

Despite the high rate of survival of cuttings, which sometimes reaches 100%, there is still a danger of developing plant diseases and rots, which can lead to the death of the cutting. To prevent disease and death of cuttings, several time-tested methods are used.

The first is that a cut of the cutting located below the leaf node (leaf bud) is dipped into melted paraffin or candle wax. The hardened wax reliably seals the cut of the cutting, preventing bacteria from multiplying in its loose core. After this, the cuttings are planted in the prepared soil. At the same time, it is important not to burn the plant with too hot wax and not to damage the wax layer when transporting and planting cuttings.

The second method is to cut the cutting with a sharp knife not between the buds, but directly in the area of ​​the leaf node, where the stem is much denser and the loose core is not visible.

Another method of vegetative propagation of weigela is propagation by shoots (layering). In this case, the shoot is bent to the ground and the bark of the shoot is slightly damaged in the place where it lies on the ground. Then you need to attach it to the ground with staples and sprinkle it with soil. Next year you will get a full-fledged young weigela seedling, which at the age of three can be transplanted to a permanent place.

For the winter, cuttings and young weigela seedlings must be covered with coniferous paws, tyrsa, foliage, and in the spring, feed the plant twice and do not forget to loosen the soil around the bush, preventing stagnation of water, and also mulch the soil in the area with weigela seedlings.

Weigela is a deciduous shrub belonging to the Honeysuckle family. The genus has 15 species and originates from Southeast and East Asia; three species grow in the Far East.

General description of weigela

The plant is an erect deciduous shrub. Usually its height is about 1.5 m, but there are species that reach 3 m and do not exceed a meter. Weigela leaves are elongated, with a sharp tip and pronounced veins, with a smooth or serrated edge. The color of the leaves can be either green or reddish; there are varieties with variegated colors.

The flowers are large, with a two-lipped corolla, either funnel-shaped or tubular in shape. Their color can be white, cream, all shades of pink and red. Characteristic feature The plant is that during the flowering process the color of the corolla changes, the length of which can reach 5 cm. The flowers can be single or collected in small inflorescences located in the axils of the leaves.

If the weigela has been well cared for and the autumn is warm, re-blooming is possible on the tops of young shoots. True, it will not be as plentiful as the first.

Weigela is a popular decorative foliage and decorative flowering plant, which is widely used in landscape design, both in group plantings and as a tapeworm (single focal plant).

Weigels are propagated by seeds and vegetatively - by cuttings and layering.

Vegetative propagation of weigela

The best results are obtained by propagating weigela using semi-lignified cuttings. If you need to get a lot of young plants, you need to choose a healthy, abundantly flowering plant in advance - this will be the mother bush and its purpose is to give us the best cuttings. At the beginning of the dormant period, cut off all weak thin shoots to the root, and strong and powerful shoots to half. If you only need a few plants, trim a few branches, cutting out the weak growth growing nearby so that the bush does not lose its decorative appearance - on the side that is less visible.

The ability to form roots in shoots that have grown after pruning is much greater than in cuttings from an unpruned plant.

During flowering, weigels cut semi-lignified cuttings from the shoots of the current year. It is better to take them from a thick, well-developed stem. When cutting, the top of the shoot is cut off only if it has not matured. It is necessary to cut cuttings 10-15 cm long, the lower oblique cut should be 0.5 cm below the bud, cut lower leaves and treated with any root formation stimulator.

If you need to root a lot of cuttings, do it in a cold greenhouse; if not, take a pot, add drainage and fill it with light soil, covering the surface with a 2-3 cm layer of sand. Then use a wooden peg to make a hole in the soil and plant the cuttings, deepening them about 4 see. Spray the planting with fungicide and cover with a transparent film. Place in a warm, shaded place.

Further care of the cuttings consists of regular ventilation and watering. The cover can be removed completely next spring, when the plant produces stable new shoots. Transplantation to a permanent place is carried out after a year and a half. During this time, pinch the plant several times.

It is quite difficult for a novice gardener to propagate weigela from lignified, mature cuttings.

In order to propagate weigela by layering in the spring, find a branch located close to the ground. It is bent and the wood and bark are trimmed a little, the cut is treated with a mixture of crushed activated carbon and root, insert a match and dig in so that the cut point is in the ground. To secure the layering, use bent electrodes or metal pins. Next spring, and better in autumn cut the new plant from the mother bush and plant it in a permanent place.

Propagation of weigela by seeds

Almost all weigellas growing in our gardens are varieties or hybrids. Their flowers are larger and have large palette colors than wild species. The leaves are often purple or variegated. The disadvantage of seed propagation is that it most often does not transmit varietal characteristics plants.

But if you decide to propagate the plant using seeds, remember that they lose their viability very quickly. They need to be sown in early spring in boxes or pots filled with a 2:1 mixture of fertile soil and sand. Before sowing the seeds, the soil must be well squeezed and watered, the seeds scattered over the surface and sprinkled thin layer sand.

Cover the crop with glass and place in a warm place. The container with the seeds must be regularly ventilated and carefully watered, preferably sprayed with a spray bottle, so that the seeds do not float to the surface. Shoots should appear in 3 weeks.

When 2 true leaves appear, use a wooden stick to pick the seedlings into separate pots and until young plant will not grow again keep at high humidity under the film.

Sometimes weigela reproduces by self-sowing, but it is usually not possible to plant a young plant. The fruits ripen only in mature plants, which no longer require loosening the soil. Usually the soil underneath is very compacted, and when you try to plant a young plant, the still weak root is broken off or damaged.

Place suitable for growing weigela

Weigela will grow best on sunny place, in the shade, flowering will be sparse, and the leaves will be variegated or reddish in color and turn green. The plant must be protected from strong winds, as they contribute to the fall of the buds. It is best to plant the plant on the south side under the cover of walls or larger plants.

Do not plant weigela in lowlands or other wet places - it does not like stagnation of moisture at the roots.

Weigela does not require special care. But in order for the plant to be decorative and bloom profusely, it should not be left completely unattended.

Planting weigela in the ground

Select a location to plant the plant and dig a 40x40 hole for rich, well-drained soils and a 60x60 hole for poor or too dense soil. Try not to mix the top, fertile layer of soil, approximately a spade bayonet deep, with the rest of the soil - we use it for planting.

If you are planting an adult weigela purchased in a container, landing hole make it 10-15 cm deeper than the height of the pot. Place drainage at the bottom - gravel or broken red brick, cover with sand. Mix the fertile soil well with compost and nitroamophoska; if the soil was very dense, add peat.

Remove the plant from the container and place it in the planting hole. If the plant was bare root, make a mound and carefully straighten the roots. Fill the planting hole with soil so that the root collar remains at soil level; you can only deepen it 1-2 cm. Gently press down the soil and water the planting generously. When the water is completely absorbed, add soil and mulch trunk circle peat or well-rotted horse or cow manure.

The distance between weigeloi and other plants should be from 1 to 2 meters, depending on the expected size of the bush.

Top dressing

In early spring, when the snow has just melted, feed the weigela with any nitrogen fertilizer. Nitrogen is building material for all parts of the plant, it stimulates vegetation. Then twice, the first time during the formation of buds, and then at the end of flowering, feed the plant with a special fertilizer for flowering bushes– it contains little nitrogen, a lot of phosphorus and potassium, and contains trace elements. At the end of August - beginning of September, feed the plant with phosphorus-potassium fertilizer, for example, potassium monophosphate - it will help young shoots to ripen well and increase the winter hardiness of weigela.

If you are a careful gardener or have a qualified gardener working for you, make sure that the weigela receives foliar feeding once every two weeks.

Trimming

In the spring, sanitary pruning of the bush is carried out - all dry and broken branches are cut off. Formative pruning is carried out in mid-summer, try not to miss this time - it depends on it appearance bush. Trim branches that have stopped blooming as needed to encourage re-blooming.

Once every 3 years, you need to carry out anti-aging pruning - in early spring, cut off all the old branches that thicken the bush at the root, shorten the rest by 1/3.

Watering

In the spring and during the flowering period, water the plant generously; mulching the soil around the bush helps retain moisture. After flowering, reduce watering, and do not forget that weigela does not like stagnant water at the roots.

Preparing for winter

The older the weigela bush, the more winter hardiness it has. In the southern regions, the plant overwinters without shelter. The further you move north, the more serious shelter the weigela needs for the winter.

After leaf fall is complete, the root of the bush is sprinkled with a mound of earth, about 20 cm high, like a rose. If your winters are harsh, tie the branches with twine, tilt them to the ground and cover them with burlap or agrofibre.

If the weigela is still frozen, do not worry, if the root remains alive (it is the branches that most often suffer from frost), the plant will recover fairly quickly.

Weigela can be affected by aphids, caterpillars, spider mite and thrips. Now there are many drugs on sale to combat them - both pesticides and biological remedies. Sellers will help you choose what you need.

If you are a supporter folk remedies– use infusions of garlic, wormwood or hot pepper. A solution of laundry soap helps well in pest control.

To combat powdery mildew and rust use systemic fungicides.

To prevent diseases along with foliar feeding treat weigela with solutions of zircon and epin.

Weigela does not bloom solely because of our mistakes - wrong place planting, lack of fertilizing and pest invasion. Treat the plant more carefully, care for it properly and you will be rewarded with abundant and long-lasting flowering.

Weigela - rules of care and cultivation (video)

Weigela is a genus of plants belonging to the Honeysuckle family. She bears the name of the German chemist von Weigel. The shrub grows wild in southeastern Asia.

Only 15 species belong to this genus, of which 7 are cultivated. So, this plant is a shrub with opposite foliage. Flowers look like funnels or bells and can form inflorescences. The fruit is a capsule with seeds. Let's talk about some varieties of this plant:

Varieties and types

The flower is a bush that reaches 3 meters in height. The leaves are dusty and have a small fluff. Flowers form pink inflorescences. Derived from this species weigela purpurea , alba , pink , Victoria , and there is also variegated variety .

A plant that forms a large bush that blooms profusely. Grows up to 1.5 meters. Flowers come in different colors.

The most common varieties are Bristol Ruby And Red Prince .

meter plant with yellow flowers.

Weigela planting and care in open ground

Planting and caring for weigela in open ground requires knowledge of the characteristics of the flower. It is best to plant weigela in the spring, since plants planted in autumn die in winter.

For planting, select an area located high enough from groundwater and protected from drafts. The place where the plant is grown should be well lit, and the soil should be fertilized with humus; the acidity of the substrate should be neutral and contain clay or sand.

To plant a bush, you need to dig a hole about 40 cm and put drainage in it, as well as a bucket of compost for feeding, which must be mixed with 100 grams of nitrophoska. The distance between bushes should be from 80 cm to two meters, depending on the height of the species.

After planting, the plant should be well watered and the area covered with mulch. In terms of watering, weigela is not particularly whimsical - it should be done in the summer, and not very often. You also need to clear the area of ​​weeds and loosen it.

Weigela fertilizer

If nitrophoska was added during planting, then two years of weigele fertilizer are not required. In the third year in the spring, before the active growth of the stems begins, fertilize with ammophos.

During the formation of buds, fertilizer is carried out with superphosphate. In the fall, when it’s time to dig up the site, wood ash is added.

During flowering, weigela does not need special care. This flower is very valuable for gardeners as it blooms twice a year.

Weigela pruning

Weigela bushes need to be pruned to keep them healthy and beautiful. In young plants, only diseased branches need to be cut off, and those weigels that have already grown need to form a crown.

Weigela is also pruned after the first flowering of the year. Four-year-old bushes need to be rejuvenated by removing all three-year-old branches, and younger ones should be shortened by half.

With the arrival of autumn, when all the foliage has fallen from the bush, you need to raise a mound about twenty centimeters high on it. The branches are bent to the soil or tied. Next, the plant is covered with rubedoid.

Propagation of weigela by seeds

To propagate weigela by seeds, you need to collect them in time, when the fruits begin to crack. This happens in November. In order not to lose the seeds, you need to cover the box with gauze at the beginning of autumn so that the seeds do not spill.

When the time comes to collect them, cut off the fruit and shake out the seeds onto a piece of paper, dry them and store them in a paper parcel. Do not keep them for too long, as after a couple of years the material will lose its viability.

In general, propagation by seeds is easy. They can be sown immediately in the fall. After a couple of years, the young plants can be transplanted to a permanent site. But the method of propagation by seeds is unlikely to suit you, since it does not preserve the varietal characteristics of the plant.

Weigela propagation by cuttings

Usually preferred vegetative method. To do this, you can use cuttings and layering. Semi-lignified shoots from last year are cut off in March, and young stems in July. The size of the cuttings is about 15 cm. The lower leaves are cut off from them, and the upper ones are halved.

The side on which the cutting will be stuck into the ground is treated with a means that stimulates the formation of roots.

You need to stick the material into the ground very shallowly, so that they are from the very top of the soil. Then cover the seedlings with jars and ventilate them and water them a little every day.

Weigela propagation by layering

The method of propagation by layering follows the standard scheme. You just need to bend the stem to the ground and cut the bark a little, and next year you will have a new bush.

But remember that young plants cannot be replanted until they reach three years of age.

Diseases and pests

Problems with weigela are usually associated with improper care or pests, which most often attack it in the heat.

• Lack of flowering is usually due to too much pruning. last year's shoots or excessive fertilization with organic matter.
• Leaves on bushes dry out most often due to sap-sucking pests, such as spider mites.
• Weak growth of the bush and lethargy of weigela in general can be associated with pests attacking the roots, such as chafer larvae.
• Poor growth can also be caused by insufficient fertilizer, nutrients or poor lighting.

Weigela is beautiful plant which can give bright flowers 2 times per season. Abundant flowering occurs in May, and slightly less in August. Weigela exists in a wide variety, thanks to which you can create an original and beautiful flower bed even for an inexperienced gardener.

Kinds

The wide selection of weigela varieties makes it a little difficult to choose. The fact is that for certain climatic conditions it is necessary to use one or another variety. The most popular are:

1. Alexandra. This crop has leaves that are elliptical or elliptical in shape. Their color is dark lilac, but the branches are presented in bright pink tones with yellow splashes. The height of the bush reaches 150 cm. But this will help you understand how to plant and care for lilacs in the open ground.

   Veigela Alexandra

2. Sunny Princess. This bush has green leaves with yellow edges. The height of the plant reaches 150 cm. But this will help you understand where to buy fast-growing shrubs for hedges.

   

3. Carnival. The peculiarity of the bush is that the flowers on one bush are presented in different color solutions. They can be pink, hot pink and red-pink. But this article will help you understand how it happens and how it looks in the photo.

   

   Carnival

4. Victoria. The bush has a rounded crown. If you look at the leaves under the sun, they are brown in color. Blooms pale pink.

   

   Victoria

5. Coins. The height of the bush reaches 70 cm. The peculiarity of the culture is unusual shape her petals. They have green color with pink and white trim. The bush looks very elegant when the flowers open on it Pink colour. But how the planting and care of Iberis evergreen occurs is described in great detail

   

6. Naomi Campbell. The height of the plant reaches 80 cm. It has a spreading crown. The plant grows very slowly. It is distinguished by its purple-brown color. In June, the bush is decorated with bell-shaped flowers. The plant can be planted in partial shade, but winter hardiness is low.

   

   Naomi Campbell

7. Nana, Purpurea Nana. These varieties are low growing. Their height reaches 100-150 cm. During flowering, the bush is covered with pink flowers. Purpurea has unusually colored foliage. They are reddish-brown. Ellipse shape. The plant should overwinter only under conditions of complete shelter.

   

8. Eva Rathke. It's high ornamental plant, whose height is more than 100 cm. During flowering, it is covered with shiny carmine-red flowers. The culture's resistance to winter frosts is average. The plant must be planted in a well-lit place. The advantage of the variety is that it is resistant to diseases and pests.

   

   Eva Rathke

9. Bristol Ruby. This plant is resistant to frost and rapid growth. Its height can reach up to 3 m. It bears dark pink flowers. Flowering occurs well in both partial shade and sun.

   

   Bristol Ruby

10. Rosea. This hybrid variety, the height of which can reach up to 2 m. During flowering, pink flowers. Resistance to winter frosts is average, so it will need to be covered for the winter.

    

11. Candida. This shrub has a wide and spreading crown. Its height reaches 2 m. During flowering, the bush becomes covered snow-white flowers. For wintering it is necessary to insulate it, since winter hardiness is average.

    

12. . This bush is distinguished by its incredible beauty. It grows slowly, and flowering occurs 2 times per season. The color of the flowers is red. The variety is winter-hardy, but is often affected by aphids.

    

    weigela Red Prince

Reproduction

It is better to propagate the plant in question using green cuttings. They are separated at the stage of thawing the weigela, before new buds have arisen. The cuttings are separated using pruning shears. This creates a straight cut.

Separate about 10-15 cm with two leaves. After separation, it is worth treating the cuttings with a special solution. This will stimulate root growth.

Afterwards, keep the cuttings in dark room at temperature conditions 20 degrees. At the end of 12 hours, plant the cuttings in a sand-peat mixture to a depth of 0.5 cm. Sprinkle sand on top and cover with plastic. Roots will appear only after a month. But weigela should only be transplanted to a new place after 1.5 years.

The video shows Weigel landing:

How to plant

Maximum survival rate of weigela can only be achieved if it was planted in the spring. It is best to do this before the buds swell and after the soil has warmed up. If you plant a bush in the fall, it will die in the first winter.

To plant a plant, it is necessary that the chosen location is located on a hill. It must be protected from cold winds and drafts.

Because of this, flowers and buds may fall off. In order for flowering to be abundant and bright, excellent lighting is necessary. The soil for the plant should be loose and enriched with humus. Loamy and slightly alkaline soil is suitable for this.

The plant is planted in a hole, the depth of which is 30-40 cm. When the soil on the site is poor, the hole should be a little deeper. You still have to take care of drainage from broken stones or bricks. The land must be fertilized. To do this, you will need to use 100 g of nitrophoska and 1.5 buckets of compost.

The nutrient mixture must be mixed with compost. In order for new seedlings to take root, it is worth treating the roots with a stimulant solution. Plant plants at a distance of 1.5-2 m from each other. During planting, carefully straighten the roots so that no voids form around them. Deepen the root collar of the seedling by 1-2 cm. Now all that remains is to water the seedlings and mulch the area. And this is what low beautiful decorative flowering flowers look like frost-resistant shrubs

, can be seen in the photo in the article:

How to care It is necessary to care for the plant regularly. This is the only way to achieve it abundant flowering

and growth. All activities do not require much time and effort.

Top dressing

• No matter how nutritious the soil in which weigela grows is, the soil should be fed in spring and summer. Fertilizers must be applied in 2 stages:
• in early spring, when the last snow has melted;

at the beginning of June, when flower buds form.

Watering If there is a drought outside and there is an active growth of new shoots, then this period is characterized by budding. During this period, the plant will need to be irrigated regularly and abundantly. But make sure there is no standing water. Mulching over the roots will help reduce soil evaporation. Due to such actions, it is possible to reduce the volume of watering, reduce the number of weedings, and this will also be an excellent. For mulch, peat, sawdust, wood chips and mowed grass are used. But how to use a retractable sprinkler for watering is described in great detail in this

On the video - how to care for Weigela:

Trimming

A correctly formed bush is an opportunity to give the plant attractive appearance in subsequent years. Weigela pruning is carried out from the very early age. For the next growing season early spring the stem must be cut before the buds have formed. In this case, it is worth leaving a stump of 10 cm. The actions taken will serve as excellent stimulation for the growth of young shoots.

In this way, you can create a beautiful and lush bush. If by the third spring the seedling is poorly developed, then the described steps should be repeated.

How to save in winter

Since most often the plant is planted in the northern regions, it is necessary to think about how to protect it in winter. Young specimens must be covered for wintering. To do this, you should use spruce branches or dry foliage. If the shoots are frozen in winter, which often happens, they recover very quickly. In this case, no additional intervention is required.

Growing weigela is not that difficult. The main thing in this matter is regularity and responsibility. If you do everything right, you will soon enjoy incredible beautiful view flowering bush.