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Process installations wooden windows It is practically no different from installing plastic windows. Before installation, all options are thought out in advance, as well as possible problems, which may appear during the installation process.

Installation of wooden windows- simple, but requires accuracy of calculations and accuracy. Therefore, it is better to entrust it to professionals. However, knowledge of the rules for installing windows will make it possible to perform this work efficiently.

First rule

The specialist performing the measurements must have personal experience installation and be well acquainted with the design of the window being installed. If an incorrect calculation is made, all costs will be lost, and extra work will require much more time and material investments. Therefore, it is important to monitor the accuracy of this stage of work.

Second rule

The measurement of the window that will be installed is carried out both from the inside of the room and from the outside - from the street. These measurements are necessary in order to determine the depth of the quarter of the initial window opening.

Of course, the window should not be smaller than the external dimensions of the opening. This will prevent the structure from falling out. How much more it should be depends on many different factors.

When installing windows from wooden material certain rules must be followed. This article provides a continuation of their descriptions.

Third rule

It is imperative to take into account the fact that the opening that exists can be quite skewed. This is typical for panel houses. In this case, this factor leads to the need to increase the window size by the size of the skew.

Or otherwise, so that there are no through gaps between the edge of the window frame or the edge of the opening, the size of the window must necessarily be larger than the size of the external window opening by at least 30-40 mm in width and 15-20 mm in height.

This is achieved in two ways. You can increase the size of the window frame. Or you can expand the window using special additional profiles that snap onto the frame.

Fourth rule

From the street side, there should be a clear idea regarding the appearance of the window, since some people like the entire frame of the window to be inserted into the wall and not be visible from the outside. Others prefer to show the window in all its glory.

If the first option is chosen, we must not forget about possible distortions so as not to hide the edge of the glass unit inside the wall, and not just the box itself. The second option is preferable. In this case, the likelihood of errors is less, as is the severity of their consequences.

Fifth rule

We must never forget that with outside The windows are sometimes at the top, but mostly at the bottom; there must be a specially installed ebb line to drain rainwater. Therefore, no matter how the ebb is installed, the lower edge of the window should not be lower than the outer edge of the opening.

This is necessary in order to ensure that the special openings for draining water from the window frame from the outside are not blocked. In addition, the joint between the frame and the ebb, as well as between the frame and the window sill, must be sealed, for example, with silicone.

Of course, it is best to install the ebb under the window. This will eliminate the possibility of water leakage in the place where the connection is located. Also, do not forget about the window sill. It is installed not at the joint to the window, but under the window.

It also needs to be sealed with silicone. This will prevent moisture from seeping under the window sill through the joint. And on the other hand, it will increase the strength of the connection. When installed, the window sill has a slight downward slope, according to SNIP - 3 degrees. This is done to prevent condensation from flowing under the window.

Sixth rule

After accurately determining the dimensions of the future window, they must be compared with the control internal dimensions of the opening. Such a comparison will make it possible to timely detect a mechanical error in previous calculations. This will also allow you to assess exactly how thick a layer of plaster needs to be laid on internal slopes.

Seventh rule

We must strive to ensure that between window frame and the wall, the joint width did not exceed 3 cm. This is especially important when the window sizes are large. This is absolutely not difficult, since manufacturers of window profiles, in addition to the main set, necessarily produce additional profiles that make it possible to increase the width of the window frame without changing the dimensions of the glazing. Such profiles are specially designed and designed specifically for such cases.

Eighth rule

There are generally accepted methods that allow fix the window frame. This is fastening through the box, which is done directly or fastening using a metal anchor plate clinging to a plastic lock on the outside of the box. Each of these methods has both its advantages and disadvantages.

In the first case, it is necessary to remove all double-glazed windows and sashes from the frames during installation. But at the same time, the window is mounted in almost any opening, which guarantees the load not on the plastic, but on the metal internal reinforcement of the window. The second method simplifies the leveling process in terms of plumb and level.

It does not leave marks on the end surface of the plastic. Both methods pay off in practice. Which one to choose is determined more by personal taste. Next comes the installation process. The window is freed from hinged sashes and double-glazed windows.

The empty frame is inserted using wedges using a horizontal level and a plumb line very carefully into place. Holes are drilled around the perimeter of the window in the frame and wall for future fasteners. The frame is secured using collet bolts.

After this, the doors and double glazed windows are inserted into place. Then the joints between the wall and the window are sealed. This is done using polyurethane foam. Then it is deleted from profiles protective film, only after this the fittings are finally adjusted. In the process of performing these actions, you need to take into account rule 9, which will be described in the next part of the article.

The previous parts of this article talked about the rules for installing windows. The rules that will be described in this article are additions to the eighth rule of the third part of the article.

Ninth Rule

Taking off double glazing, it is necessary to mark the glazing beads. This is necessary in order to subsequently put them exactly in the same place. During the window production process, the dimensions of the glazing beads are determined very clearly locally using a special measuring ruler. And although the glazing beads themselves are the same at first glance, their length is different. The difference can be no more than 2 mm, but in the place where the vertical and horizontal beads meet, even such a small detail is clearly visible.

Tenth Rule

It must be remembered that it is better to install the window on the lower supporting blocks. They are not removed after installation. Under no circumstances should the window be left hanging on dowels. Weight metal-plastic window, having a double-glazed window, reaches 150 kg.

Therefore, neither dowels nor polyurethane foam will certainly hold it in place. The pads, of course, need to be placed next to the vertical elements. Under vertical partitions-imposts and in the corners of installed frames.

The next part will cover the rules covering anchorages and plumbs.

Eleventh rule

When it is set vertically, it is necessary to use a plumb line with a sharp tip and absolute axial symmetry. The level bar is in no way suitable. She doesn't give accurate readings. When leveling the horizontal, experts recommend using a water level. It is he who gives an accurate reading.

Twelfth Rule

There is no need to tighten them further when tightening the mounting screws. Otherwise you may not notice, but the window will take on a somewhat barrel-shaped appearance. After tightening the screws, in any case, it is advisable to once again check that there are no deflections in the profile in the places where the fastenings are made, as well as the general leveling of the window.

When sealing windows, the joints between the wall and the window frame with a variety of building materials usually filled with polyurethane foam. It is relatively cheap, easy to use, capable of accepting and evenly distributing wind loads and mechanical stress.

Some time ago, the appearance of plastic windows on construction market created a real sensation. Of course, they outshone the wooden ones in almost all respects. People no longer had to paint their window frames every year to get them in proper shape, and insulate them with the onset of the winter season. Double and triple glazed windows became a reliable barrier to street noise and drafts, and maintenance plastic frames wasn't much of a problem.

Wooden windows are making a comeback

But still, everything is not so rosy. Some manufacturers, in order to reduce their own costs and the cost of their products, use low-quality plastic that emits, although not a large number of toxic substances, but still has an effect Negative influence on people, animals and even plants.

That is why the installation of wooden windows is gradually regaining its lost popularity. People, surrounded by many artificially created things, which are not always safe for health, give increasing preference natural materials. Modern technologies make it possible to produce wooden windows that are practically no different in other characteristics from plastic ones. Double-glazed windows are now installed in wooden frames in the same way, reliably protecting the room from cold and noise, modern compositions They perfectly protect the wood from rotting or getting wet, leading to swelling and deformation of the frame, and the painting materials are durable and resistant to climate change.

Is it worth installing wooden windows yourself?

Do not forget that in many respects the excellent quality of a window (and this applies not only to wooden ones, but also to any others) depends on how accurately the technology for installing wooden windows is followed. Even a small deviation from the rules can cause rapid failure or negate the expected effectiveness.

In principle, installing wooden windows with your own hands is not particularly difficult, therefore, if you need to install ready-made frames in the opening, then if you have minimal construction skills, you can handle this work yourself. But it should be borne in mind that in this case no one except yourself guarantees good quality work, and if suddenly something goes wrong, then you will have to correct the defects only at your own expense.

Where better to start...

Of course, it is necessary to begin installing wooden windows from the manufacturer by preparing the window opening. It should be an even rectangle, without distortions, large potholes, cracks or other defects. If the old window is still installed in the room, dismantle it and thoroughly clean all surfaces of the opening from construction debris, dirt and dust.

How to get rid of distortions in a window opening?

The next stage should be taken very seriously - after all, these are measurements of the window opening. All measurements are taken both inside and outside, and in three places: along the edges and in the middle of opposite sides. If the opening is significantly skewed and it is not possible to straighten it, then it is necessary to increase the size of the window so that it exceeds the value maximum level the external opening is at least 10-20 mm in height and 25-40 mm in width. This can be done by installing additional profiles on the window. This measure will avoid the appearance of gaps between the frame and the opening in places of strong distortion. There is another way to get rid of this common defect - by increasing the dimensions of the window frame, but it is better to entrust it to professionals who can do this correctly and accurately.

Ideally, the size of the new window should be smaller internal dimensions window opening by 25-30 mm. Such a reserve is necessary to accommodate insulating materials. In addition, you should also take into account the presence of a window sill, so it is better to leave 50-60 mm at the bottom of the opening.

Putting the window in place correctly

Insert finished design into the opening in three ways, and the cost of installing wooden windows will be approximately the same in any case:

1. Using mounting blocks.
2. On mounting plates.
3. "End-to-end" way.

The frame should be installed on bars whose height is equal to the height of the window sill.

It is better to install wooden windows closer to the outside. This will keep most of the opening warm.

We fix the window into a perfectly straight opening

The first method is not suitable for every window. The fact is that for fastening with blocks you need an absolutely even opening, and this is not always possible to achieve. If the opening meets the requirements, then it is first covered with a waterproofing layer, and mounting blocks are attached to this layer parallel to the window frame. After inserting the box, the vertical and horizontal are leveled using wedges.

We fix the window with mounting plates

In the second case, special mounting plates are attached to the sides and top of the frame, and they should be located at a distance of 250 mm from the edge. First, the plate is installed so that it “looks” into the room, and then, bending it, it is attached to the inside of the window opening using self-tapping screws, but without tightening them.

If the window dimensions exceed one and a half meters, then you will need to install one or two additional plates.

After installation using this method, the window, as in the previous case, is adjusted with wedges, leveled and finally fixed with self-tapping screws.

The most reliable way to attach a window frame

In this case, you will have to face the need to remove glass or double glazing. This is done very simply: first, the glazing beads are carefully separated, and then the glass is removed. Holes are marked and drilled on the side and upper internal surfaces of the frame. Now the frame can be installed in place, but holes in the walls can only be drilled after it is completely level.

We screw in the screws, but in such a way that they can be easily moved from place, since you first need to adjust the position of the frame both horizontally and vertically. This is done in the same way as in the two previous cases, that is, with the help of wedges.

A good window should have no cracks

To prevent cold air and moisture from entering the room, it is necessary to eliminate all gaps between the window frame and the opening. The most common way to get rid of cracks is foaming with polyurethane foam. With a lack of experience, it is almost impossible to do this efficiently. Too much foam can warp the frame and cause the entire window to warp. Of course, you can use wooden spacers to prevent deformation, but it is better not to risk it and purchase any other insulating material.

The window sill and sills can also be installed independently

When installing the window sill, it must be placed slightly under the frame, but it must protrude 45-50 mm relative to the wall. After this, it needs to be leveled and adjusted to the frame as closely as possible. Now we remove the window sill, and foam the entire space under the frame with polyurethane foam. After installing the window sill in place, the space under it is filled with foam.

In order not to move the window sill from its place when foaming, it is recommended to place a small load on it, for example, several containers of water.

Ebb tides are even easier to install. First, they are cut to size with a margin of 60 mm (30 mm on each side). Next, the ebb is first screwed with self-tapping screws to the bottom of the frame, and then point-fixed with inside polyurethane foam.

Basic installation rules

So, let us repeat the basic rules for installing wooden windows, the observance of which will allow you to independently install a wooden window efficiently and reliably:

1. High-quality surface preparation.
2. The angles must be equal to 90°, and the difference in the length of the diagonals should not exceed 10 mm.
3. Gaps are required: below - 50-60 mm, on the sides - 15-20 mm.
4. It is better to install the frame in the second quarter of the window, counting from the outside.

And finally, to make the whole process clear, we bring to your attention short video- installation of wooden windows, in which all the main stages are competently considered.

Finishing finished wooden log house begins with the insertion of double-glazed windows into the window openings. However, the amplitude of shrinkage of a log or timber only subsides over time, but never completely disappears. Therefore, if installed incorrectly, troubles are inevitable, leading to damage to expensive PVC products and wood in general. Below are instructions for solving the issue - how to install a double-glazed window in a wooden house with your own hands, which will reduce the cost of attracting outside forces.

Stages of work

Any process is preceded by preparation. For a wooden object, it is especially careful. It is necessary to clean the ends of the openings from fine wood dust in advance, remove protruding parts of the fasteners and impregnate the material with compounds that prevent rotting and other damage.

1. Measurements for the manufacture of double-glazed windows.
2. Making vertical grooves at the ends.
3. Inserting a casing or socket.
4. Final installation of double-glazed windows in a wooden house and filling of gaps with polyurethane foam.
5. Finishing.

More details:

• It is not recommended to carry out calculations yourself. Sometimes deviations of a few mm can become a problem in the future. It is best to call a professional to do the work. If the owners decided to own calculation, then you need to consider the following:

• The height of the window is 10-12 cm less than the opening.
• width = opening – 3 cm for foam gaps – thickness vertical racks casing board - 1.5 cm for unexpected shrinkage or swelling in a humid atmosphere.

The delivered packages are placed at an angle towards the wall, making sure that there are no distortions on the floor - a small weed stone can crack under load.

• To make grooves, use a chisel or circular saw which is faster. First, outline the outline along the ends and then select the excess. The process is necessary so that when installing the casing, you do not use fasteners, because shrinkage will continue, as mentioned above.

The freed groove is cleaned and impregnated with protection. Next, it must be compacted with the same material that was used in the construction of the crowns - tow, jute.

• Assembling the pigtail. It is a box of boards, one inch wide. If you have extra money, you can purchase special boards with a spike for this purpose.

If you don't want to spend money, it's suitable handmade by sawing or stuffing bars according to the size of the groove into the middle of the vertical posts. The modification of the casing can vary - the tenons and grooves are swapped.

Or a carriage is made, put on at the ends. This way and that way is good. The pigtail is inserted and its upper edge should not reach the top log or beam by 10-12 cm. This is done in case of long-term shrinkage of the log house.

• Now you can insert a wooden double-glazed window or PVC product. By the way, many environmentalists prefer the first option, motivating the rejection of progressive products with chemical components.

But these are rather prejudices - qualitative plastic windows have already proven themselves. Unlike natural frames, their durability is estimated at tens of years. But the owner is a gentleman.

• The insertion of packages is carried out by a couple of people in order to maintain accuracy. If desired, the edges are aligned with the lower log or beam or slightly recessed into the house.

At the fastening points along the perimeter of the window, they place wooden blocks, to ensure the necessary clearance under the mounting foam. The frame is fixed with fasteners into pre-drilled holes.

• It is recommended to fill gaps only with foam - it is elastic, sets quickly and has shock absorption, which will work to its advantage when shrinking. If the gaps turn out to be larger than planned, then you should fill such places with pieces of jute, polystyrene foam and other materials. Is not the best option– air circulation is disrupted, so it’s worth doing this in advance correct measurements when ordering windows, as described above.
• The upper, largest gap is also filled with a sealant, but it cannot be foamed - shrinkage is inevitable. Having laid jute in it, the opening from a log or beam to top bar the casing is closed with a platband.
• Finishing refers to the installation of slopes and window sills. If initially the double-glazed windows are wooden house If plastic ones are purchased, then the accompanying elements must be of the same quality. It is impossible to finish slopes with plaster - the compositions require the presence of water, which wood is not at all friendly with.

Or you will have to install moisture-resistant plasterboard parts, and apply a solution on them, which is troublesome and requires leveling, constant supervision, elimination of cracks and peeling.

It is much easier to install double-glazed windows for a wooden house by freeing the frames from the sashes. All components are then screwed into place and adjusted. If work is carried out with solid non-leaf structures, then the presence of assistants is mandatory - the packages are quite heavy.

Mistakes when inserting windows into a wooden house

Due to inexperience, many home-grown craftsmen can ruin expensive PVC products through incorrect actions. Below is a list of common actions that lead, at a minimum, to the fragility of the double-glazed window. So:

1. Incorrect measurements. Independent work will lead to the gaps being too large or, conversely, small. Considering that polyurethane foam is not cheap, it is better to leave the determination process to correct parameters at the mercy of specialists. In addition, this happens free of charge in the company where the windows are ordered.
2. Savings on synthetic seals. We're talking about foam. If there is not enough of it, it threatens acceptance metal surfaces cold on yourself. Which threatens condensation.
3. Tight fit. It is not recommended to screw the frame close to the wood. If shrinkage occurs, compensation will be lost and the bag will be in danger of being crushed.
4. Use fasteners that are too long. Only a part 2/3 screwed into the casing is enough. The ends should not contain pieces of metal. Fastening occurs diagonally with gradual screwing in of self-tapping screws. This way you can achieve a perfect fit.
5. You need to foam the gaps when the window is full, that is, plastic or wooden double glazed windows for the dacha and the house should stand in finished form, with doors and other fittings. This will give a true load, and the foam will fall as it should and in a smaller volume.

The weight of the structure is quite impressive, unless we are talking about small dormer windows. Therefore, when installing double-glazed windows yourself, you need to have at least an observer on your team to record distortions.

New or already in use wooden houses with double-glazed windows they look fresh. In addition, the industry producing these products has taken care of external diversity designs – you can find ones indistinguishable from wood, or colored ones that contrast with general view object.

More than 50% of the durability of a new wooden window will depend on the quality of its installation. This statement is especially true in a bathhouse, where operation involves exorbitant changes in temperature and humidity. Here, incorrect installation of wooden windows can lead to many unpleasant consequences: distortions, glass cracks and even frame falling out of the opening. In order to prevent all of the above when installing windows, we recommend that you either involve competent specialists in the work, or, after studying the issue, carry out the installation yourself. The stages of the work will vary somewhat depending on what kind of bathhouse you have - brick (concrete) or wooden. In this article we will look at both cases.

Installation of wooden windows in a brick (concrete) bathhouse

Stage 1 - Opening measurements

The first step to brand new wooden windows should be to measure the existing opening, cleared of debris and remnants of plaster. The goal is to determine its configuration and dimensions of the new window. The difficulty of measuring is that any building settles a little over time and the opening is never absolutely perfect. This is not scary; minor distortions will be compensated for by a correctly positioned wooden window frame.

So, measurements are made using a laser tape measure, building level or plumb line. It is advisable to beat off two verticals and two horizontals - according to opposite sides opening, so that when installing a window, focus on a smaller number.

Installation of wooden windows in accordance with GOST requires that the following gaps be maintained between the opening and the window frame: at least 1-2 cm on the sides and top, 5-6 cm on the bottom.

Stage 2 - Window Installation

Installation of a wooden window in a brick or concrete bath can be produced in three ways:

• using mounting blocks
• on dowels (through installation)
• on the anchor

Option 1 - Using mounting blocks

This method is suitable for installing windows in washing department baths, as it involves the use of polyurethane foam and silicones, which are unacceptable for steam rooms.

Mounting blocks are pieces of boards or slats with a thickness equal to the provided gap between the opening and the frame. First, install the support pads, and then, using a level, install the spacer pads. After the frame is leveled, the pads, starting with the spacers, begin to be taken out one at a time and construction silicone is poured in their place - on the wall and on the frame. After this, the pads are returned back, securing them with silicone, like glue. The pads glued in this way, along with the gaps, are blown with foam. The frozen sagging foam is cut off, if necessary, a window sill is installed and slopes are made.

Option 2 – Installing wooden windows with dowels

This option is much more versatile and suitable for any sauna room, including a steam room. In addition, installation using dowels will combine the windows with the bathhouse into a single structure, and even a hurricane will not be able to tear the tightly fastened frame out of the opening.

To start with wooden frame drill holes for fasteners so that the outer ones are at a distance of 150-200 mm from the corners, and the others are located evenly along the length between the outermost ones. In any case, this step should not exceed 600 mm.

The length of the dowels used for fastening is calculated by the formula L = gap width + frame thickness + 80 mm. For example, if the frame thickness is 50 mm, the gap width is 20 mm, then the length of the dowels should be 150 mm.

The frame is installed in the opening and leveled using mounting blocks and a level. Through the holes in the frames on the walls, mark the places where holes for the dowel sleeves will be drilled. After this, the frame is set aside and holes with a depth of equal to length sleeves + 30 mm. Next, the dowels are driven into the resulting holes, the frame is re-aligned and nails are inserted into the sleeves. Then the pads can be removed and the gaps can be filled with any materials suitable for the bath. It is better to give preference to flax fiber, jute, moss, that is, natural materials of natural origin.

Option 3 – Installing windows on anchors

Not a bad method, which is the only correct one for a very skewed opening with incorrect dimensions. Anchors are special metal plates with mounting holes, which are fixed to a wooden frame according to the same principle as the holes for dowels were made in the previous version. The anchors are secured at the ends with self-tapping screws to the frame so that they point inward. In the future they will be hidden behind the slopes. The frame with anchors is installed in the opening and leveled using mounting blocks. Then through the holes anchor plates Drilling locations are marked on the walls and anchors are secured using dowels. After this, the pads are removed, the cracks are filled with insulation, a window sill is installed, and slopes are made.

Installation of wooden windows in a log house and a timber bathhouse

Installation of windows in wooden bath has its own characteristics, due to the fact that the log house or timber shrinks very much. In the first year of operation wooden sauna 3 m high, on average, settles by 3-5 cm. Later, it continues to settle for another 5-6 years; moreover, it “lives its own life” throughout the entire period of operation, shrinking and swelling, constantly deforming. Therefore, if you install the window frame close to the opening, then over time the wooden crowns will begin to put pressure on it. And this often leads to the destruction of the frame and glass.

To avoid this, the frame of a wooden window in a wooden bathhouse is mounted on a casing (jam). This is a peculiar extra box, which will “take on” the weight of the settling log house. The stages of installing wooden windows using frames are as follows:

Stage 1 - Opening measurements

The opening for a window with a frame, naturally, should be larger than when installing a window in a brick or concrete bath, where a frame is not provided. Usually the casing is made from 100x150 mm bars and this size must be taken into account when calculating the window size. The gaps (later they are filled with insulation) between the opening and the casing on the sides are usually 20 mm, on top - at least 70 mm.

Stage 2 - Fastening the casing

There are two ways to fasten the casing in the opening of a wooden bath:

• Fastening using an embedded block

In this case, in window opening grooves are made on the sides. Thermal insulation material is first laid in these grooves, and then the bars are installed. After that side walls casing is attached to the bars using self-tapping screws or nails.

• Fastening with a spike

Tenons are cut out on the side of the window opening, and grooves are cut out on the side posts of the casing. When using this method, the frame is put on the opening as part of the construction set, and, if necessary, can be easily disassembled.

Stage 3 - Window installation

A wooden window is attached only to the frame; the easiest way to do this is with self-tapping screws. If you do not want to drill the box, you can use anchor plates for fastening.

Possible errors during installation work

If a wooden window is installed incorrectly, then sooner or later you will have to face some problems. The most common errors and their consequences are:

• Incorrect measurement of the window opening without taking into account thermal expansion- this leads to deformations window frame, glass cracks, tight closing of the doors.
• Failure to observe the correct position of the window horizontally and vertically will result in misalignment of the sashes, tight closing, and rapid wear of the fittings.
• A poorly executed window frame junction is the most obvious reason for the formation of condensation on the glass.
• Too tight, “tightened” fasteners lead to wave-like deformation of the frame.
• Installing a window in a wooden bathhouse without casing - frame deformations and glass cracks are possible.

All modern wooden windows on the market building structures, suggest the possibility of them self-installation. The quality of workmanship, the availability of all kinds of fittings and components make this process simple and fast. In addition, there are many articles and manufacturer's instructions regarding installation. By following the directions, almost anyone can handle this process. However, we must not forget that only competent execution of the work will make it possible to take advantage of all the advantages of wooden windows during their operation.

To install wooden windows you need:

1. Preparation window opening(including measurements).
2. Installation of the structure in the opening.
3. Fastening the box to the wall.
4. Insulation device around the perimeter of the box.
5. Debugging of opening/closing mechanisms.
6. Finishing.

Through-hole method

Wooden structures are installed, as a rule, by the method of through installation using dowels. It is especially suitable if you need to install wooden windows for your dacha. The main advantage of this method is that the box is deprived of the ability to “move” in the opening and change its position under the influence of external mechanical loads (distortions, bends and displacements are excluded, which is impossible to achieve when fastening wooden box anchors). This is due to the fact that the dowel with a hollow sleeve is a natural stopper, and the screw is not able to go deep into the wall.

The advantage of this method is that such installation requires no special tools and nozzles, the screw head is covered with decorative plastic plugs (this contributes to excellent appearance windows, since the plugs hide all imperfections - chips, cracks, etc.). Features include the choice of place in which to drill the dowel hole. The four-stage section of the window frame profile allows this to be done only at one level (relatively inner surface). In other places, drilling and installing dowels is not permitted.

Preparing the opening

In order to be able to adjust the windows during installation, the opening must be larger than the dimensions of the box (10-20 millimeters on the sides and top, 50-60 millimeters at the bottom). Such adjustment is necessary to minimize various manufacturing defects - incorrect frame geometry, distortions due to incorrect dimensions, etc. Therefore, before installing a wooden window, it is necessary to check the entire structure to detect such defects in advance.

Sometimes builders make the mistake of using openings as formwork structures to create wall lintels. That is, the window is then “walled up” in the opening - this is unacceptable, since it causes the frame to “squeeze”, and the absence of gaps in this option provokes a lack of insulation and the impossibility of the window functioning in normal mode.

As dictated by the rules for installing wooden windows, the permissible difference between the diagonals of the frame cannot exceed 10 millimeters (this tolerance is approximate, since it depends on the size). They check the correctness of the angle with a protractor, a laser tape measure, or simply measure the size of the diagonals with a centimeter or a rope.

Dew point isotherm

Despite the fact that the technology for installing wooden windows is quite simple, there are several main points that are important to pay attention to. One of these moments during installation is precise definition the depth at which it is necessary to “plant” the structure in the opening.

The “dew point” isotherm should pass inside the window - 10°C. “The dew point is the temperature at which air having a certain initial temperature and relative humidity, no longer able to absorb moisture."

Only if this rule is followed will condensation not form on the inside of the window. If the wall is covered with a thermal insulation layer ( mineral wool or polystyrene foam), then the dew point isotherm has a limitation in the form thermal insulation material, and installation must be performed at its level.

Mounting pads

Installation of wooden windows using a mounting block is probably considered the most in a technological way and most convenient for installation. A block (height 50 millimeters), impregnated with an antiseptic, is attached to the waterproofing so that it is located horizontally and parallel to the outer edge of the wall.

First of all, it is necessary to free up space - the sashes are removed from the window and only the frame is installed. After placing it on the mounting block, use a level or laser tape to check the horizon and vertical of all sides and secure the box with wedges in working order (all distances from the box to the edges of the opening must be strictly the same).

Options for placing mounting blocks are shown in the figure:

Plate mounting

Manufacturers complete wooden windows with mounting plates (some “craftsmen” make them themselves). Installation in accordance with GOST promotes reliable and durable fastening of frames. Plates are attached to the window frame on both sides, in the middle in the plane of thickness, and a distance of 250 millimeters is maintained from the corners (this stage of fastening is carried out before installing the frame in the opening).

If window sizes exceed 1.5 meters, it is necessary to secure an additional pair of plates (in the middle of each side). The plates are secured using galvanized mounting plates wooden products- 4x40 millimeters. Having completed the preliminary installation of the box using wedges, the mounting plates are attached to the wall with dowels, after which the wedges with which the window was held are removed and the horizontal and vertical positions are checked again.

A correctly and high-quality wooden window has an optimal level of resistance to heat transfer, and is insulated (in the factory) from the penetration of cold air from the outside and moisture. To prevent this completely, it is necessary to install insulation along the entire perimeter of the opening, thus preventing the penetration of moisture and air from outside through possible gaps between the opening and the frame.

As a rule, when installing wooden windows, ready-made polyurethane foam is used - it is effective, simple and fast. Polyurethane foam based on polyurethane, it tends to expand after application, which ensures its penetration into all cracks and spaces. The main thing to remember is that the layer of foam should be uniform and not interrupted; to avoid excess foam, install a limiting spacer from a regular board.

On the outside, after installing wooden windows, it is necessary to perform waterproofing. Modern silicone putties have good waterproofing properties, are durable, and are easy to use. All metal elements, according to the instructions, it is necessary to lubricate, check and adjust the sashes. Each wooden window is equipped with manufacturer's instructions with recommendations for installation, adjustment and care during operation. These installation instructions provide these and other required information in detail. If you follow all this simple rules, That wooden structures will serve “faithfully” for a long time.