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When building any house or garage/shed/bathhouse, you will definitely need to construct formwork. Concrete works on the foundation or, for example, the construction of monolithic walls cannot be carried out without this.

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In construction, there are two types of formwork - removable and permanent. Each of them has found its application in the process of building construction. for various purposes, But permanent formwork more often used for construction complex structures, multi-storey buildings. For its production are used ready-made blocks from wood concrete or expanded polystyrene - you don’t need to do anything yourself. Often, when constructing permanent formwork, heat-insulating solid materials are used - in this case, two problems are solved at once: both the formwork is ready and additional work There will be no need to carry out thermal insulation of the building. By the way, it is for this purpose that specific finishing materials are used to install permanent formwork - the building will immediately have a good appearance.

Note:If permanent formwork is used in the construction of a private house, then experts recommend using wood concrete as a thermal insulation material. Expanded polystyrene is not recommended for use in the construction of residential premises - it is characterized by its ability to release toxic substances into the air.

Permanent formwork allows for significant savings - such monolithic walls will be much cheaper than conventional brickwork. And the process of actually constructing the structure will proceed faster - when pouring permanent formwork with cement mortar, a “mixer” is usually used, which supplies the main material through a pipe under sufficiently high pressure, and manual labor is minimized.

Removable formwork

But with such a structure everything is much more complicated, but also more interesting. The fact is that removable formwork is the easiest way to arrange a foundation for brickwork. Most often, this is how private construction is carried out. Therefore, it is worth getting more information about removable formwork - it will be useful to everyone who intends to become the owner of their own square meters.

Requirements that removable formwork must meet:

Formwork material - what to choose

Many experts recommend using metal panels for the construction of formwork - they are sold on construction trading sites. Such shields have an absolutely smooth surface, do not allow any leakage of the solution, and are quickly disassembled if necessary. There is only one “but” - the cost of such metal panels for the construction of formwork is too high, so you won’t be able to save money.

Another material option for arranging the structure in question is plywood sheets. They are very convenient to use, quickly disassembled if necessary, and easy to install. But the following features of formwork made from plywood sheets should be taken into account::

But the most reliable and decades-tested material for arranging formwork is a wooden board. Moreover, even an ordinary unedged board 10 mm thick is suitable for the structure in question - it is characterized by its low cost, which cannot but please those involved in construction own home. You will need to assemble a frame for the panels - it is made from wooden blocks measuring 40x60 mm, and slopes and ties can be used from any materials (most often, wood blocks again perform this role). It is important that all material for the construction of formwork is made from wooden boards was durable, reliable and was able to ensure the stability of the structure.

Note:a foundation poured into removable formwork made of wooden boards will not have a completely flat surface. But this fact will be quite useful - any adhesive composition that is used for finishing and thermal insulation work fits perfectly on such an uneven surface.

Step-by-step instructions for making formwork from boards

Making formwork with your own hands is not difficult, but quite painstaking. Experts say that even an absolute beginner can cope with this task - the main thing is to strictly follow the step-by-step instructions.

Stages of making formwork with your own hands:

1. Preparation of material. Wooden blocks must be cut into pieces of the same size - they must be at least 50 cm higher than the intended foundation. One side of each block needs to be sharpened in order to easily and simply drive each block into the ground - this can be done with a knife/axe.

Now you need to prepare the boards - they are cut to the size of the future shield, adjusted so that no gaps are formed between the sides of contact.

Note:the choice of the thickness of the wooden boards is made in individually, taking into account the mass of concrete solution that will be poured into the finished formwork. The most commonly used board size is 24-36 mm (thickness).

1. Shield assembly. The bars are laid out on a flat surface - the distance between them should be on average 1 meter, the upper edge of the bars is leveled. Now wooden boards are placed on top of the prepared blocks and secured with screws or nails.

Note:The heads of the screws must be with inside wooden panels of the future formwork (and in the erected structure they will be on the outside) - this will ensure simplicity and ease of disassembling the formwork.

1. Marking and installation of formwork. First, mark the future foundation on the ground - this is conveniently done using pegs (metal or wooden) and rope. Then they dig a trench under the foundation in strict accordance with the design documents and prepare a “cushion” for the concrete solution - this is most often a layer of sand followed by a layer of medium-fraction gravel, which is carefully compacted.

Note:The depth of the trench is determined individually - everything depends not only on the type of soil, but also on the depth of soil freezing. The width of the trench is specially made slightly larger - the thickness of the wooden boards in the formwork is taken into account.

Next, the assembled wooden panels are installed - the pointed bars are simply driven into the soil, you can tap the support strips a little with a hammer - the structure should “sit” tightly on the soil, be stable and not wobble. It is imperative to use a plumb line and level - the formwork must be installed perfectly level both horizontally and vertically.

The wooden panels, already installed in the trench, are fastened together with special clamps - their role is played by U-shaped structures made of boards or timber. Such a fastening will not allow the panels to diverge from each other during the direct pouring of concrete - its mass can simply push the formwork panels apart.

Note:in some cases, insufficient stability of the shields may be detected - this cannot be ignored. To strengthen the structure in question, bevels are used - these are blocks of wood, cut at an angle of 45 degrees and installed on the outside of the wooden panels. Such slopes simply serve as a spacer between the formwork and the ground.

1. Final preparation. After installing the formwork with your own hands, be sure to line the walls of the structure in question with plastic film - this will prevent concrete mortar from leaking out through the gaps between the boards in the panels (unfortunately, this cannot be avoided even with a particularly careful fit of each board) and will ensure the simplicity and ease of the process of removing the formwork.

All that remains is to install the reinforcement and pour the concrete. Now you will need to wait a few days (from 2 to 4) - the concrete solution will “set” and you can begin dismantling the formwork. Some wait for the moment when the foundation is completely dry - this takes from 2 to 8 weeks. To accurately determine the time for dismantling removable formwork, it is worth looking at the foundation from above - if there are minimal gaps between the concrete mortar and wooden panels, then you can begin the planned work.

Dismantling the formwork is carried out in the following order:

• remove the bevels from the outside of the wooden panels (if they were exposed);
• then unscrew the ties and clamps;
• Lastly, the wooden panels are removed one by one.

Note:To facilitate the process of removing wooden panels from the foundation, you can lightly tap their surface with a hammer. But you cannot overdo it - the concrete solution has not yet hardened completely, and it is very easy to destroy the structure even with a careless blow.

By the way, experts recommend that before installing wooden panels in a trench under the foundation, treat them with any oil solution (even vegetable oil from the kitchen!) - this will ensure poor adhesion to the concrete solution, so removing the wooden panels will be as easy as pie.

Formwork is a kind of form for a cement-sand mixture, which allows you to form the correct geometry of the walls. Builders use both removable/temporary and permanent/permanent formwork for the foundation. The second option allows you to save effort and time on dismantling work, as well as insulate and/or strengthen the walls, so it is increasingly used not only in industrial, but also in private construction.

Basic requirements for permanent formwork for foundations

Let's consider what properties permanent formwork should have.

• Moisture-proof material and tight seams. In the absence of this characteristic, the formwork will allow concrete to pass through, which will lead to excessive consumption of the mixture and make it impossible to construct the wall.
• Structural strength. This is necessary so that the formwork can withstand the pressure of the concrete mixture from the inside and the earth from the outside (at the foundation level) without deformation or cracking.
• Correct element geometry. From blocks different thicknesses or with incorrect angles it would be impossible to build smooth walls and 90-degree joints between them.
• Long period of operation. The longer the formwork can potentially last, the higher the likelihood of a long life for the entire house. If the formwork collapses quickly, the unsupported walls may not be able to withstand structural loads. In cases where the formwork does not have load-bearing properties, its destruction will lead to deterioration in appearance due to delamination decorative finishing facade.

Fixed formwork is an important element of an energy-efficient house

Table: advantages and disadvantages of permanent formwork

Fixed metal formwork

To ensure uniform wall thickness, sheets of metal formwork are connected with metal studs

Metal formwork is one of the most expensive, therefore it is used mainly in industrial construction. It is made from sheets of aluminum or steel 1–2 mm thick on a metal frame and connected with anchors, plates or locks. The type and number of fasteners are calculated in such a way that when concrete is poured and hardened, the sheets do not bend either inward or outward.

When the formwork is made to order for a specific building, the manufacturer’s craftsmen themselves carry out a test assembly of the structure and only after confirming the suitability and completeness of all parts, the order is sent to the buyer.

Metal formwork has the most accurate geometry. Tolerance in parallelism of the sheet edges - no more than 2 mm over 1 m of product length.

To prevent premature oxidation and destruction of metal due to contact with concrete and groundwater, in production, sheets of future formwork are carefully coated with paint and lubricant. Often galvanized steel is also used, or a powder coating method is used, which forms a dense polymer film on the sheet. But if welding is used during installation (welding sheets to a frame or reinforcement to sheets), areas damaged by temperature will need to be re-applied. protective composition(lubricant, mastic, paint).

Powder coating metal sheets- one of the most effective methods of protecting them from corrosion

Metal is well suited for buildings with complex geometry, since thin sheets are easy to bend at any desired angle, make a rounding or an arch. Finished walls They turn out very neat and smooth; if desired, they can be left without decorative finishing. Architects recommend using metal formwork in areas with complex loose soils.

To prevent concrete from leaking, the joints of metal formwork are connected especially carefully.

But experts also note some disadvantages of metal formwork:

• significant weight steel sheets, which requires the use of special equipment;
• the need for additional thermal insulation of walls and foundations;
• The grease on the sheets rubs off easily and stains workers.

Installation of aluminum sheets for wall formwork can be done by a couple of workers

Aluminum sheets with the addition of silicon, which weigh much less than steel sheets and do not require protection from the external environment, will help minimize labor costs for transportation and installation of metal formwork.

Permanent formwork made of reinforced concrete blocks

Reinforced concrete formwork blocks are recommended for large construction projects, at least a three-story private house. Since they have increased strength characteristics, in smaller buildings such a safety margin will be unnecessary. Thin-walled blocks are excellent for arranging the foundation of a permanent fence.

Reinforced concrete formwork blocks are installed offset

Reinforced concrete formwork blocks have the following advantages:

• allow you to save cement-sand mortar due to the significant wall thickness;
• suitable for the construction of basements of any depth, as well as interfloor ceilings;
• mounted with a minimum joint width;
• provide a building service life of several hundred years.

The best formwork is made from reinforced concrete blocks with indicators F75 (frost resistance), W4 (water permeability), 6% (water absorption), 350 kg/cm 2 (mechanical strength).

An example of the arrangement of reinforcement in formwork made of reinforced concrete blocks designed for two rods

The disadvantages of reinforced concrete blocks include:

• heavy weight (a 510x400x235 mm block weighs 30 kg), due to which it can only be transported by trucks and installed only by workers with a crane;
• high price - about 500 rubles per unit.

Expanded clay concrete blocks do not have such disadvantages. Providing high strength of the walls, these analogues of reinforced concrete blocks do not require insulation of the house, since they already contain insulation - expanded clay.

Fixed plywood formwork

For formwork, moisture-resistant plywood is most often used, but even then, this material is usually used to create a temporary form. After all, the service life and weather resistance of a laminated plywood sheet are an order of magnitude lower than the same parameters of a concrete wall.

Permanent plywood formwork is acceptable in the following cases:

• when making a temporary structure (for example, small house, in which the owner lives during the construction of the main house);
• during the construction of non-residential buildings (chicken coop, barn, wood storage);
• when it is necessary to save as much as possible on construction;
• if the walls and foundation are insulated along the outer contour and the plywood is completely protected from external influences.

In addition to questionable durability and strength, plywood formwork will require a lot of labor and careful handling. Since the sheets do not have a tongue-and-groove system and special joints, you will have to assemble the structure using self-tapping screws, additionally seal each joint and make an external sheathing with supports (so that the plywood does not bend). In addition, non-waterproof plywood swells and flakes from water, while laminated plywood repels the concrete mixture and never forms a monolithic wall with it, so it is very important to find a waterproof material with good adhesion.

Technoblock - an example of the successful use of plywood in formwork

Designation in the picture:

• 1 - decorative facing layer;
• 2 - layer of insulation;
• 3 - plastic supports for reinforcement;
• 4 - concrete pouring(there is a cavity for it in the block);
• 5 - plywood sheet.

As a result, despite the cheapness and environmental friendliness of plywood, experts recommend using it only for temporary formwork. For permanent applications, it is better to use a technoblock - a composite product with an inner plywood layer.

Fixed wood concrete formwork

Arbolite is a relatively new, but time-tested material. Formwork blocks from concrete and wood chips began to be made recently, but this mixture was used for floor insulation back in Soviet times. Arbolite blocks are much cheaper and lighter than reinforced concrete, so they are actively used in individual low-rise construction.

Some models of wood concrete blocks have a layer of insulation - stone wool or polyurethane foam

Compared to other types of permanent formwork, wood concrete blocks:

• are easily cut with tools for working with wood, which allows you to adjust them on site to the required parameters: cut corners, make arched curves, cut out fragments for better adhesion of walls at the corners of the building, reduce height/length;
• can be installed quickly and without special equipment (1 m2 of wall is only 8 blocks);
• provide high strength, sound absorption and thermal insulation with a smaller wall thickness (compared to brick and expanded polystyrene);
• safe for the health of others, waste can be industrially recycled;
• strong enough to attach clamps drainpipes and loaded elements facade systems(guides for hanging siding, etc.);
• are not afraid of fires (withstands up to 90 minutes of open fire);
• frost-resistant, suitable for regions with harsh climates.

The disadvantage of wood concrete is its water permeability, so it is recommended to use it for the construction of walls on a ready-made waterproofed strip or slab foundation.

The use of wood concrete for arranging the foundation is undesirable, since it will need to be very carefully protected from moisture.

An example of arranging formwork made of wood concrete and brick Arbolite is produced in the form of hollow blocks and panels. In the second case, the panel serves only as the inner contour of the wall, and the outer one must be made of brick. The cavity between the materials is filled with concrete and reinforced, as when using other types of formwork. This option is more difficult to install, but ready house

it turns out warm (arbolite), beautiful (brick) and durable (merging the strength characteristics of three materials).

When purchasing wood concrete blocks and slabs, pay attention to the eco-label, as some manufacturers use binders that are harmful to health (phenol, naphthalene). Be careful, plasticizer toxins can be released from the material even at room temperature.

Manufacturers of wood concrete blocks for formwork offer options for both high-rise buildings and small buildings. Be sure to consult with a consultant so as not to spend extra money on concrete for pouring thin-walled blocks or not to mistakenly take blocks with too small voids.

Fixed formwork made of CBPB

CSP (cement particle board) or sawdust concrete is another variation of a mixture of cement and crushed wood. It differs from wood concrete in the type of binder component and the addition of sand. Therefore, DSP is a denser, stronger and heavier material, and its thermal insulation is worse than that of wood concrete. Cement particle boards can serve finishing material

when covered with decorative mineral chips

• Among the advantages of wood concrete formwork:
• the material breathes, so there is no need to equip the house with forced ventilation and fight the greenhouse effect in other ways;
• DSP is able to withstand fires, its fire resistance is confirmed by laboratory tests; the plate consists of natural materials
• , therefore does not harm nature and health; gives the house high strength: with a thickness of 25 cm, the wall can withstand three times greater loads than brick wall
• the same thickness; DSP is resistant to sudden changes
• the material is sufficiently stable and geometrically stable so that the distance between the floors can be 2.8–3 m;
• it is possible to build houses using cement particle boards even in winter, as long as the temperature does not drop below -20 o C;
• DSP requires minimal finishing, inside the house it can be painted or wallpapered without putty.

An example of creating reinforced formwork for a foundation made of cement bonded particle boards

European builders have been using permanent DSP formwork for more than 25 years, so there are many houses that confirm the durability and reliability of this material. Cement particle boards are well suited for both individual and multi-storey buildings, even in the harsh northern climate.

Fixed formwork made of corrugated sheets

Profiled sheets, corrugated sheets or corrugated sheets have also found their use as permanent formwork, although much more often they are used for the manufacture of fences, roofs, and outbuildings. Important: profiled sheeting is only suitable for arranging composite slabs of interfloor floors and for large spans (from 5 m) it requires additional temporary supports. This material is not used for the construction of walls due to its small thickness, which reduces its resistance to mechanical loads in a vertical position.

An example of a floor design with a base made of profiled sheets

Builders are attracted to formwork made from this material with the following features:

• the metal is completely protected by galvanization and/or a polymer layer, so it does not rust;
• V industrial buildings the material can be left without decorative finishing, the ceiling is visually pleasing and practical;
• The corrugated sheet not only serves as a form for concrete, but also serves as sheet reinforcement;
• corrugated sheeting transfers the load to the metal frame of the building, therefore interior walls do not bear heavy loads and there is an opportunity to save money by constructing them from lightweight materials (aerated concrete, sandwich panels);
• sheets of small thickness are simply cut with metal scissors; formwork of any shape can be created from them.

To ensure good adhesion to concrete, choose special corrugated sheets with teeth for the formwork.

This is what an interfloor ceiling based on corrugated board looks like from inside the building

Permanent formwork made from corrugated sheets is used mainly in industrial construction, as it requires construction metal frame buildings and metal beams ceilings

It is not suitable for an individual home, as it will be unreasonably expensive.

Expanded polystyrene/foam is the most popular material for permanent formwork. Its demand is explained by factors such as:

• light weight, making it easy to transport;
• tongue-and-groove connection system for the simplest possible installation;
• speed of installation (foam blocks of permanent formwork are larger than concrete ones, so work progresses faster);
• variety of types (reinforced, with protective impregnations);
• thermal insulation properties, thanks to which the house does not require additional insulation;
• soundproofing;
• biological inertness, preventing the development of mold, moss, etc.

Examples of polyurethane foam formwork blocks of different configurations

Opponents of polystyrene foam formwork point to its danger in case of fire and low degree of environmental friendliness. Even if you buy materials labeled eco, this does not guarantee that the formwork will not harm your health or the environment.

It is also important to keep in mind that foam formwork will be a good choice for buildings of simple shape, since the range of corner and rounded blocks does not yet allow satisfying all consumer needs.

Fixed formwork made of glass-magnesite

Glass-magnesite sheets or FMS have been used as permanent formwork since the mid-20th century for the purpose of constructing thermally insulated houses. The material consists of a mixture of magnesium oxide and chloride, perlite, sawdust, fiberglass and polypropylene fabric. Not all components of glass magnesite are natural, but the finished composition is completely safe for people.

Different options for glass-magnesite sheets with decorative finishing

LSU - great option for the construction or reconstruction of a house with a weak foundation. Since the sheets themselves and the lightweight concrete mixtures used for pouring weigh much less than bricks, reinforced concrete blocks and other traditional materials, they do not load the structure of the building so much.

Among the advantages of glass magnesite:

• multifunctionality: it is suitable for creating foundations, walls, ceilings, fences, etc.;
• high thermal insulation, which is associated not only with the properties of the formwork itself, but also with the advantages of the filler (fiber foam concrete grade D250-D320, concrete with polystyrene foam balls M300);
• fire resistance;
• complete moisture resistance, which makes the material suitable for the construction of baths and saunas, use in areas with a humid climate and in wetlands;
• the small thickness of walls with SML formwork will save space inside the house;
• the rough surface of the sheets is easy to cover clinker tiles, decorative plaster or any other finishing material;
• the sheet can be slightly curved if necessary for the construction of a half-turret or other home decoration (radius of curvature - 3 m).

If you plan to cut LSU boards on site, purchase spare jigsaw blades. This material wears out nail files several times faster than wood concrete and plywood.

Glass-magnesite sheets will be suitable for use at all stages of house construction

Glass-magnesite sheets, like arbolite sheets, often form only the internal contour of the formwork, while the external one is most often built from decorative bricks. As a result, external finishing turns out to be unnecessary, and a thin layer of putty will be enough inside. The technology is suitable for the construction of houses up to 5 floors on a finished strip/slab foundation. In addition, it requires more time and effort than using polystyrene foam or DSP formwork (excluding decorative finishing).

Glass-magnesite sheets are currently produced only in China and Korea, and LSU quality control is also carried out there. There are no domestic analogues for this material.

Instructions for installing permanent formwork from prefabricated blocks

We will consider the technology of constructing a foundation from ready-made hollow blocks using the example of lightweight concrete products. Unlike reinforced concrete blocks for high-rise buildings, these “bricks” can be installed by hand without a crane or manipulator.

1. Prepare a cushion for the block foundation by filling and compacting layers of sand and small crushed stone. A thin screed should be poured over the cushion to simplify further laying of the blocks, and also to avoid concrete leakage when pouring the foundation.
   

   The sand and gravel cushion must be covered with a thin layer of concrete before installation.

2. Stretch a thread along the trench and place the first layer of blocks on the cushion, being careful not to deviate from this guide. It must be mounted so that the gap between the elements is minimal. If the gap increases significantly along the trench, the reason may lie in the unevenness of the cushion. In this case, the row needs to be disassembled and a more even base made.
   

   Thanks to the correct geometry of the blocks, the foundation strip is smooth and clear

3. Connections between walls should be provided with special blocks of slightly longer length. If there are none, a recess should be made in the universal blocks, as in the picture. This will ensure reliable adhesion of the perpendicular foundation strips.
   

   At the junctions of internal and external walls you need to put special corner blocks

4. Place metal or fiberglass reinforcement. For low-rise construction, two parallel rods are sufficient, but if necessary, three can be arranged.
   

   The blocks have special grooves for reinforcing rods

5. At the junction of the walls, the rods must overlap so that the length of the free end is at least 2 cm.
   

   Pay attention to the location of the upper and lower rods in relation to each other, they should form a regular square

6. When the length of the rod is not enough, it can be increased by tying a new rod with a special thin wire. It is advisable to make 2-3 dressings per different areas overlap.
   

   The reinforcement should be tied with an overlap of 15–20 cm

7. Place the second row of concrete blocks exactly on top of the first. Do not allow even small deviations; if necessary, adjust the position of the block with a mallet.
   

   Install the second row of hollow blocks on top of the first

8. Fill the prepared formwork with liquid cement-sand mortar so that the concrete level does not reach the grooves for the reinforcement.
   

   The concrete level should be slightly higher than the middle of the top row of blocks

9. Before the concrete begins to dry, try to expel excess air by piercing the space inside the formwork with a reinforcing rod in a downward motion. After this, place the reinforcement vertically, especially carefully strengthening the external corners and wall joints.
   

   Vertical reinforcing bars can be installed individually at a distance of 1.5 m from each other

10. After the concrete has dried, begin building the foundation. Install and tie the reinforcement, install two new rows of blocks and fill the formwork with concrete. Continue this until the foundation reaches the height you want.
    

    New reinforcement is installed on top of the concrete screed

11. The last row of foundation blocks is poured until a smooth horizontal surface is formed. While the concrete is still wet, you can level it with a small board or a long plaster trowel.
    

    The foundation is ready for the construction of the walls of the future house

A foundation made of concrete hollow blocks for a private house using the described technology is installed by two workers in 2–3 days, taking into account the time for the first layers of concrete to set.

Comparison of costs for creating a foundation from full and hollow reinforced concrete blocks and monolithic with temporary formwork

A comparison shows that a foundation made of hollow concrete blocks is 18% cheaper than a foundation made of solid ones and 36% cheaper than a strip monolith poured using a temporary wooden formwork. This is achieved by saving on the amount of reinforcement, reducing labor costs, the amount of concrete, etc. But constructing walls from reinforced concrete blocks will be too expensive (compared to polyurethane foam, wood concrete), it is better to use it only for the foundation.

Making permanent formwork with your own hands

Let's consider the process of creating permanent formwork from sheet materials with independent cutting using the example of EPS (extruded polystyrene foam).

1. Unfold the sheets into fragments corresponding to the width and length of the compacted trench. From the remnants, cut out strips for sides 20–25 cm high. The total length of the sides should correspond to the double perimeter of the trench + 20% for overlap at corner points.
   

   You can cut sheets of polystyrene foam not only with power tools, but also with a hand saw

2. Place the sheets in the trench so that the sides rest on the EPS layer and do not touch the ground. Secure the sheets at the corners by piercing the material with plastic ties of the SVT system.
   

   When laying EPS sheets in a trench, try to minimize the gaps

3. Place halves between vertical sheets plastic ties and secure them together. If the system does not click tightly enough, tighten the connections with pliers.
   

   Plastic ties are easy to install by hand

4. Install reinforcing bars above and below the horizontal ties. To ensure that the metal is embedded in the thickness of the concrete, place pieces of polystyrene foam under the rods. Special grooves on plastic ties will help maintain the same distance between the reinforcement bars throughout the entire foundation.
   

   Both metal and fiberglass reinforcing bars are suitable for reinforcement

5. Tie the rods together with thin wire, folded 2-3 times. In the same way, the reinforcement can be tied to plastic ties.
   

   Installed reinforcing rods must be tied with thin wire; welding is not allowed

6. Build up the foundation with whole sheets of EPS, having previously attached narrow strips of the same material to them using plastic clips. Place the prepared sheets as shown in the figure. When installing, pay attention to the location of the grooves and ridges on the sheet.
   

   We begin to increase the height of the foundation

7. Attach the vertical sheets to each other with ties, install and tie the reinforcement using the technology described above. You should get at least two plastic reinforcement belts, approximately at a distance of 10 cm from the top and bottom edges of the sheet.
   

   Plastic spacers between the plates are installed in the same way

8. Attach locking plates to the sharp ends of the plastic ties and trim off the ends that remain free.
   

   Protruding tails of ties can be easily trimmed with pliers

9. Fill the reinforced formwork with cement-sand mortar. To prepare concrete, you can use your own concrete mixer, but you will need a lot of solution. If you doubt that you can pour the entire foundation in a day, it is better to use the services of an industrial concrete mixer tank.
   

   Filling the finished foundation with concrete

10. Remove air bubbles with a construction vibrator and level the concrete surface. In this case, it is impossible to expel the air with a reinforcing rod, since the metal will damage the formwork, easily piercing the EPS sheet.
    

    The upper plane of the concrete layer should be at the level of the outer layer of the formwork

After the foundation concrete has completely hardened, you can continue pouring the walls using the same technology, but such a foundation can also be used with other materials.

Video: technology for building a house with permanent formwork from particle blocks

When giving preference to one of the options for permanent formwork, consider not only your financial capabilities and labor costs, but also its purpose. For example, in areas with swampy soil you should not use blocks based on wood chips, and in cold regions you should pay attention to a material with a minimum thermal conductivity coefficient. In this case, you can quickly build warm house without extra financial costs.

The formwork under a strip foundation is subject to increased requirements regarding rigidity and strength. The structure should not change in size and shape when pouring concrete. The dynamic load that accompanies the process of constructing a foundation with your own hands should not become a test for the formwork.

Basic requirements for formwork

In addition to the concrete-fixing properties, the formwork provides optimal temperature and humidity conditions - necessary condition for complete hardening of the solution. If these conditions are violated, the design strength of the finished support will be seriously reduced.

Important note: proper formwork design involves the use of materials that are chemically neutral.

Any structure must be made in such a way that it can subsequently be easily disassembled without deforming the concrete.

Formwork without concrete preparation

If you need to make formwork under Vacation home, most often we mean a shallow type of foundation on strips. This base can support the weight small house, and the installation of formwork does not take much time and effort. All operations can be performed with your own hands; the formwork in such cases is a small-panel collapsible structure.

In the absence of a concrete screed under the strip base, the formwork is the soil walls of the pit dug under the strips. A mandatory condition can be called the bottom, the thickness of which should not be less than 20 cm.

Formwork for a strip foundation is the production of a structure from panels that have a dense and durable structure. You can use boards or sheets of plywood (even used) for the shields.

The following requirements apply to shields:

1. thickness – from 4 to 5 cm;
2. humidity – below 21-23%;
3. width - on average 15 cm.

Maximum gaps between boards are 2 mm. Installation of formwork panels is carried out on braces supported by stakes driven into the ground. The distance between the braces is determined by the dimensions (height, width and thickness) of the foundation itself.

Important: if the house has standard dimensions, the braces are installed at a distance of 1 meter from each other.

To fasten the tops of the formwork under the strip foundation, the sections of the panels are fixed with wooden jumpers. This prevents the structure from opening during concreting and the mixture from spreading. The step for installing the fastening bars is from 50 cm to 1 m. To prevent the structure from bending to the sides, control is carried out by a 2-meter rail.

To ensure that the formwork for the strip foundation allows maintaining optimal temperature and humidity parameters of the concrete, the inside of the structure is lined with a layer of waterproofing. As waterproofing material polyethylene film, EDPM fabric, PVC or others.

The importance of waterproofing is difficult to overestimate: wood is a material with a porous structure. To prevent the absorption of moisture from the concrete solution, insulation is laid. Water from cement laitance can seep not only into the formwork walls, but also into the ground. Therefore, the construction of the structure with your own hands must be done correctly - the installation of the waterproofing layer must provide for a horizontal exit of the concrete mass. The bottom of the trench is covered with several layers of material, which is attached to the walls with a stapler.

Important: when installing formwork under a strip foundation, its height should exceed the concrete strip by 5-7 cm (video).

Creation of combined formwork

If you need to make a strip base on crumbling soil, you need to make a removable-non-removable formwork. Installing the structure yourself allows you to save a certain amount of money, but requires time and effort.

Correct combined formwork includes 2 parts:

1. internal - non-removable, which is made of polystyrene foam boards (thickness - from 5 to 10 cm);
2. external - standard design, which fixes the PPS slabs in the desired position with small shields.

Installation of expanded polystyrene is carried out as follows: the material is attached to the ground with ordinary 20-cm nails, and to wood - with removable screws. The manufacturer supplies its sheets of expanded polystyrene with tongue-and-groove locking mechanisms that prevent the mixture from leaking out and water seeping in.

Important: PPS is much more profitable than wood and does not require additional insulation. Among other things, installing lightweight sheets is comfortable and quick.

To keep the polystyrene foam in a vertical position, do it yourself by installing a wooden sheathing. On this topic you can find detailed video online.

Correct installation of removable and permanent formwork has a number of objectives:

1. insulation of the foundation above and below ground;
2. waterproofing of the strip base;
3. creating a removable layer onto which the soil load is distributed;
4. formation smooth surface, able to withstand the force of frost heaving.

Nuances of construction

To concrete screed, it is necessary to maintain a time period before it hardens.

When choosing material for formwork, preference is given to moisture-resistant types of plywood - FSF or bakelite boards. Do-it-yourself plywood panels need to be reinforced with wooden blocks. Numerous forums and resources on the construction topic contain photo and video reports of a detailed description of the procedure.

To prevent the formwork from deforming the concrete surface during dismantling, the internal surface of the panel structure is lubricated with any of the following compounds:

• cement mortar;
• hydrophobic mass;
• lime milk.

If it is impossible to make the formwork yourself (there is no energy, time or for other reasons), the structure can be rented from a specialized company. The cost of renting 1 square meter of imported formwork starts from 260 rubles. per day of use. There are several advantages of professional formwork:

• creating a perfectly flat foundation surface;
• formation of clear angles;
• saving time and effort.

A blind area must be built around any building, or rather along its perimeter. This coating protects the building from the destructive effects of melt and sediment waters, which can wash away the soil under the foundation of the house and lead to its subsidence, as well as destroy the foundation structures. This important protective element around the house is made of concrete or asphalt concrete. In order to complete the blind area, you need to build formwork. At first glance, this is not difficult to do, but there are some nuances that must be observed so that the blind area has the correct slope from the walls of the building. In our article we will tell you how to make formwork around the house.

Features and functions of the blind area

Externally, the blind area looks like an ordinary concrete or asphalt path, which is tightly adjacent to the walls of the building and encircles its perimeter. The width of this covering is standardized by SNiP and can be at least 1 m. It is worth remembering that the outer edge of the blind area must protrude beyond the roof overhang by at least 200-300 mm.

Important: the installation of this protective coating is carried out after the façade finishing work has been completed on the house.

The blind area performs several functions at once:

1. When snow melts or rain falls, precipitation can soak into the soil near the house and cause the destruction of foundation structures or flooding of the basement. Much more precipitation collects around the house, as it actively drains from the roof of the building and its walls.
2. Thanks to the blind area, the soil around the building does not freeze to such a great depth as in places open soil. Thanks to this, the basement or basement becomes warmer, which affects the temperature throughout the house.
3. In addition, frozen soil can also negatively impact foundation structures. This path near the building protects building structures from the forces of frost heaving, which can lead to movement of the foundation and cracking of the walls of the building.
4. The presence of a neat blind area around the house improves its aesthetic qualities.

The following materials can be used to make this coating:

• Concrete is most often used because it is the most available material, which you can prepare yourself. To pour concrete, you need to properly arrange the formwork. That is why in our article we will look at the intricacies of this process.
• You can also make a blind area from paving slabs.
• Around large public, multi-apartment residential buildings and shopping centers, the blind area is made of asphalt.

Rules for formwork and blind areas

Before you get down to work and start making formwork near your house yourself, you should remember a few simple rules, which will allow you to perform everything at the highest level:

1. If work will be carried out in hot weather, then the surface of the formwork and concrete (after pouring) must be periodically moistened with water. Thanks to this, dried wood will not absorb moisture from the concrete, thereby reducing its strength. Wetting and covering concrete covering in the first few days after pouring will avoid too rapid and uneven evaporation of moisture, which can lead to cracking of the surface.
2. In order to correctly determine the width of the blind area, slope, depth and design, it is important to take into account the geological and climatic features of the construction area. By following this rule, you will make a high-quality and durable blind area.
3. It is better to install this covering around the building before the onset of cold weather.
4. This protective concrete product should encircle the entire house in a continuous strip. That is, there should be no gaps or areas of unprotected soil in the coating. Otherwise, through such uncoated gaps, water will easily seep into the ground and cause destruction of the foundation structures.
5. Between the blind area and base part At home, an expansion joint must be made, since these structural parts cannot be connected to each other. The width of the temperature gap is 2 cm. The seam must be sealed with sealant to prevent water from leaking into it.
6. When making formwork, you should ensure that there are no significant gaps in its structure through which uncured concrete mixture can flow.
7. The slope of the coating must be at least 10 ppm from the walls of the house, that is, 1 cm of slope per meter of width.

Necessary materials

To make formwork, you can use different materials, which are selected depending on the complexity of the structure and its purpose:

• unedged or edged board;
• panel formwork can be made of particle boards (chipboards);
• Moisture-resistant plywood or oriented strand board (OSB) are also suitable for these purposes;
• some types of formwork that can withstand heavy loads are made of steel and aluminum alloys;
• permanent formwork is made of expanded polystyrene reinforced with fiber additives.

To form the blind area, unedged boards or plywood sawn in strips are suitable. Since poured concrete can slightly expand the formwork structures, bars with a cross-section of 30x30 are used as supports and a supporting frame, from which a durable structure is made.

Important: to make a protective coating around the house, removable formwork is usually used, which is dismantled after the concrete has hardened.

It is equally important to correctly determine the material for making the blind area. The covering can be made from compacted crushed stone, but in this case it is necessary to arrange a good drainage from the roof so that the flowing precipitation does not erode the fragile crushed stone covering.

A little better and more durable than crushed stone coverings will be a blind area made of cement mortar, laid on top of compacted crushed stone. This option provides better protection for the foundation of the house from destruction by melt and sediment waters. And it is this option for arranging the blind area that involves the implementation of formwork.

More expensive and quality option blind area devices - laying monolithic concrete slabs or reinforced slab products. But such materials cannot be used on heaving and clay soils, as well as at high groundwater level, since the structure can quickly deform.

If you are making a concrete blind area, you will need the following tools and materials for the job:

• crushed stone, sand and cement;
• polyurethane sealant for insulation expansion joints between the covering and the house;
• reinforcing mesh;
• nails, screws;
• roofing felt or plastic film;
• edged (unedged) boards or strips of plywood according to the height of the coating being poured;
• level, rule;
• spatula, bayonet shovel;
• container for mixing concrete.

Formwork technology

After you decide on the material for the blind area, calculate its width and required slope, you can get started:

1. First of all, it is necessary to mark the future covering around the house. To do this, set the calculated distance away from the walls, hammer pegs in the corners and pull on a fishing line or cord.
2. After this, within the markings along the perimeter of the building, a fertile layer of soil 20 cm thick is removed. The soil at the bottom of the resulting depression is carefully leveled and compacted.
3. Now we begin to assemble the formwork. First, a frame is made from timber. To do this, bars are fixed at the corners of the depression in the soil with a height slightly higher than the thickness of the coating being made. Next, along the stretched fishing line, the same bars are installed in increments of 50-100 cm. For greater rigidity, the bars are fastened together with longitudinal bars. Wooden elements connected using nails or self-tapping screws.
4. After this, we attach an unedged or edged board to the timber frame so that the timber is on the outside of the structure, that is, there is a solid wall on the concrete pouring side. Smooth surface boards We fasten the boards to the frame with nails.

Attention: to prevent concrete from leaking between the boards, the gaps between adjacent elements should not be more than 0.3 cm.

1. To prevent the formwork structure from bursting and deforming after pouring the concrete, oblique struts are attached to the frame from the outside. The installation step of such spacers is 50 cm. We attach the spacers to the frame bars using self-tapping screws or nails.
2. To make it easier to remove the formwork after pouring and hardening of the concrete, it inner surface can be covered with thick plastic film or one layer of roofing material. This material will also perform other additional functions:
   • will not allow moisture from the concrete to be absorbed into the formwork boards, thereby reducing the strength of the concrete coating;
   • if there are significant gaps between the formwork boards (especially if unedged boards are used), the coating will prevent concrete from flowing into the gaps.

1. Along the walls of the house it is necessary to install an edged board with a thickness of 2 cm and a height slightly higher than the height of the covering in this place. There is no need to firmly fix the board, since after the concrete hardens it will be removed. Using this board we will create the necessary temperature gap between the coating and the walls of the house.

Execution of coverage

After the formwork has been assembled, you can begin to make a concrete covering around the house. In this case, adhere to the following sequence of actions:

1. First, a sand cushion 10 cm high is made. The sand layer is leveled, moistened with water and compacted.
2. After this, a layer of crushed stone 10-15 cm high is made. It is also carefully compacted. At the same time, you should not forget about the necessary slope of the blind area from the walls of the building, so already at the stage of making the crushed stone cushion, you can take care of creating a slope.
3. A reinforcing mesh is laid on top of the crushed stone.
4. Now you can start pouring the concrete solution. You can use a factory mixture or prepare the composition yourself.

Important: in order for the coating to have sufficiently high strength and not crack over time, concrete must be poured at a time, without long breaks in work.

1. The solution being poured must be thick enough so that it can be laid in a thicker layer against the walls of the house, thereby creating the necessary slope. Correct filling is checked using a level. The surface is leveled according to the rule.
2. During the hardening process in the first days concrete surface moistened with water and covered with plastic film.
3. After removing the formwork and removing the boards that are laid along the walls of the house, the resulting temperature gap is filled with polyurethane sealant.

How to make formwork around a house with your own hands

No specialist can calculate the formwork absolutely accurately from an engineering point of view: too many variable objective and subjective factors influence the design.

Let's name just a few of them.

1. Quality of lumber. In nature, no two boards are completely identical. The strength of lumber depends on developmental defects, the number, nature and specific location of knots, etc.
2. Indicators of concrete. Concrete can have different consistency in viscosity, it depends on the proportions and characteristics of the fractions used during preparation. In addition, the loads on the formwork vary depending on the speed of pouring concrete, the method of compaction and the presence of reinforcement.
3. Climatic conditions. At sub-zero temperatures, boards have some indicators of physical strength, while in summer they have different indicators. Dry boards can withstand higher forces, but in rainy conditions their strength decreases.

Exist building standards regulating the maximum deflection of the formwork. For the above-ground part of the foundation, the deflection should not exceed 1/400 of the length; for the underground part, the standard has been increased to 1/250 of the length. It is difficult for non-professionals to achieve such values. What should ordinary developers do? When creating formwork, you need to be guided by the advice of experienced builders and your intuition. And remember the main rule - It is better to make any formwork with a clear margin of strength, not to rely on “maybe it will hold up.” It must be remembered that correcting violations of the linearity of concrete is very difficult and expensive.

First, you should know for what purpose you need formwork. If you plan to use it repeatedly, you should use special laminated waterproof plywood or knock down standard panels from high-quality edged boards.

Laminated plywood formwork

If the formwork is one-time use, then low-quality materials will be used; under certain conditions, you can use pieces of chipboard, ordinary plywood or even unedged boards. As a rule, for the construction of a bathhouse, you can choose the cheapest formwork option.

According to the design features, the formwork can be:

Manufacturing of removable formwork for strip foundations

Initial data: the formwork will be made of a removable type along the entire height of the foundation, the material of manufacture will be edged boards second grade, 25 mm thick.

There is no one universal algorithm for making formwork; each master makes his own changes taking into account the specific material, characteristics of the foundation and personal preferences. We will tell you only about one of many options.

Step 1. Preparing the shields. Take the dimensions of the trench in length and depth. Do not make the shields large - it will be very difficult to work with them; their length should not exceed 3÷4 meters, depending on the height. Make shields from edged boards; you can use the same boards or slats as vertical posts. If you have thin slats, then nail them with an edge.

Practical advice. Never use self-tapping screws to assemble formwork.

1. Firstly, it takes a long time and to screw them in you need to have a special electric tool.
2. Secondly, disassembling shields using self-tapping screws is a pain. The holes for the sprocket are clogged with earth or concrete, and “picking” them out is a very thankless and “nervous” job. Yes, and self-tapping screws are much more expensive than nails, and for formwork you will need more than one kilogram.
3. Thirdly, not a single formwork element is tensile; all have a load only in bending or compression. In this case, the nails are not pulled out of the boards; use them calmly. By the way, it is not necessary to take long nails and then bend them “one meter long” from the front side of the shield.

Step 2. Installation of formwork.

Carefully lower the shields into the trench. Prepare pegs for driving into the ground and corner supports. In our case, supports need to be made on both sides approximately every 50÷70 cm.

To prevent the lower part of the boards from moving during fastening, secure it with small pegs or insert spacers of the appropriate length between the opposite boards. There is no need to take them out later; let them remain in the concrete.

The photo shows the supports of the shields

Step 3. Drive pegs into the corners of the trench and stretch a rope between them. The height of the rope should be greater than the height of the above-ground part of the foundation. The fact is that you will not be able to accurately align the formwork along the horizon at a given height; you will have to level the foundation strip manually after pouring.

Step 4. Drive pegs into the bottom of the trench at a level or plumb level; the depth of driving depends on the characteristics of the soil, but in any case it should prevent their horizontal movement.

Step 5. Place one row of shields and temporarily secure them to the vertical pegs. Place the second row and grab it too. Check all markings.

Step 6. Install horizontal spacers between the panels. These can be pieces of metal rods, wooden slats, plastic tubes, etc. The distance between the spacers is about a meter; they are not affected by the pushing force of the concrete, they only serve to facilitate the installation of the formwork.

Step 7 Measure the required width of the formwork at the top, connect two rows of panels together wooden slats to size. This connection will protect the formwork from deformation while pouring concrete. The distance between the slats is approximately 50 centimeters. If you have an above-ground part of more than 50 centimeters, then you need to tie the boards together with a wire to prevent the panels from swelling under the weight of the concrete. The wire from the outer sides is fixed to the vertical crossbars, twisted with a slight tension - the walls of the basement part of the foundation will be smooth. When dismantling the formwork, the wire is simply cut off and remains in the concrete.

Step 8 Place the supports of the shields one by one; in the lower part they should rest against the pegs; in the upper part, a small piece of board should be nailed to the shield for support. Constantly check the position of the shields against the rope. If you have correctly installed the internal spacers of the formwork, it will not change its position during installation and fixation. If you see errors, correct them immediately. It happens that some pegs wobble in the ground - you no longer need to count on them. Drive in new ones nearby and attach inclined spacers to them. In place of the junction of the shields you need to put a board and always a support.

Step 9 At the top of the formwork you need to insert pieces plastic pipes for ventilation ducts and technological openings in strip foundations. There are no pipes at hand - make ordinary wooden boxes, then they will be removed and the holes will be straightened.

Step 10 Check again that the foundation formwork is in the correct position and firmly fixed; problem areas should be corrected immediately. The formwork must stand firmly and should not wobble even under great effort.

That's it, you can pour concrete. It is recommended to remove the formwork no earlier than two weeks after pouring the concrete. If the weather is hot and dry, the concrete should be watered generously daily. The fact is that the strength of cement depends on the humidity and drying time of the concrete. If the water evaporates quickly, then the chemical reactions will not have time to complete, and the reliability of the foundation tape will significantly decrease.

As for the formwork for columnar foundations, the work on its production is almost no different from those described above. You just need to immediately make the dimensions of the boards according to the dimensions of the columns. Of course, the small width and height of the posts greatly simplifies the technology of fixing the formwork in the desired position.

Foundations from reinforced monolithic slabs are made for bathhouses built on waterlogged soils or soils with very low load-bearing characteristics. In most cases, the dimensions of the bathhouse do not exceed 4x4 meters. Fill a monolithic slab yourself large sizes quite difficult, it is unlikely that you will be able to achieve its ideal horizontal performance.

Step 1. Level the ground as much as possible, fill and compact sand cushion at least 20 centimeters thick.

Step 2. Prepare the lumber, you will need edged boards and slats. The height of the formwork depends on the thickness monolithic foundation, in most cases it is no more than ten centimeters. This means that it is quite enough to have boards 20 cm wide and 20÷30 mm thick.

Step 3. Drive into the corners of the future monolithic slab pegs, pull the rope. Place boards under the rope and secure them with pegs. Drive the pegs firmly into the ground. Place the formwork in the letter “P”, this will make it much more convenient to feed and level the concrete, and you won’t have to step over the formwork every time. When concreting, do not forget about reinforcement.

Step 4. When to the end concrete slab approximately one meter will remain - install last board, level, secure its position and continue pouring concrete.

Video - Box slab foundation

Video - Marking and installation of formwork for a monolithic slab

Video - Formwork and reinforcement strapping of a monolithic slab

Now we can consider several questions regarding the use additional materials for the manufacture of formwork.

Instead, you can use roofing felt, roofing felt, thick wax paper or other materials. The use of these materials for upholstery of formwork panels is encouraged. Why?

The film must be installed on the inside of the formwork. To prevent sagging or slipping, secure it with a stapler.

Prices for polyethylene film

polyethylene film

Metal tie rods

If you have them, use them for your health; if not, you shouldn’t buy them specifically for the foundation of a bathhouse. It is advisable to use metal studs on high foundations; they cannot be strengthened with side stops. The studs must be inserted into plastic tubes of the appropriate size; be sure to place large diameter washers and pieces of boards under the nuts.

Prices for tie rods

tie rods

Permanent formwork

The new technology for pouring foundations and erecting walls is characterized by excellent performance characteristics and, unfortunately, equally high price indicators. It significantly speeds up the construction process and acts not only as formwork, but also as insulation. Often used for the construction of monolithic earthquake-resistant reinforced concrete buildings. Load-bearing walls are not only strong, but also insulated.

Construction companies produce permanent formwork from various materials and with various linear indicators. The specific type of formwork should be selected taking into account the place of its use. There are several types of permanent formwork.

1. Made from highly durable expanded polystyrene foam. It consists of flat plates or blocks, corner turns, spacers, reinforcement clamps, etc. The thickness of the sidewalls can be from 40 to 100 mm. The process of assembling formwork blocks is carried out in tenons; all dimensions must be checked with a level. Depending on the height of the formwork, concrete is poured in several layers along the entire perimeter of the foundation or wall. After pouring the previous layer, several rows of formwork are assembled again and the next one is poured.

   

2. Concrete permanent formwork. It is made of durable concrete, the side surfaces of the blocks have spikes and grooves for a strong connection with each other. The walls are held in place by jumpers. Such formwork can be used both for pouring foundations and for erecting monolithic reinforced buildings. The reinforcement is not knitted; vertical rods are inserted into the holes, and horizontal rods are placed on special stops.

   

3. Wood-concrete. It can take the form of hollow blocks or flat panels; the front surfaces must be finished; it is used only for the above-ground part of the foundation or walls. The blocks are installed using the dry masonry method; there may be reinforcement inside. The panels are assembled on ties installed inside the concrete. The front surfaces of the screeds have the form of large flat washers; the surfaces of the panels are characterized by high adhesion to all building finishing materials.

   

Use such expensive formwork on strip foundations Baths are not economically feasible. Baths do not require an insulated foundation, but a basement visible part finished with ordinary decorative materials.

Prices for foamed polystyrene foam

expanded polystyrene foam

Possible consequences of poor-quality formwork

Let’s say right away that all the consequences of incorrectly made, installed or fixed formwork are very sad, their elimination requires a lot of effort and money. In the most serious cases, pouring the foundation will have to start from scratch. Let's consider three possible consequences of defects in the construction of formwork.

Option 1. Swelling of the formwork became noticeable during concrete pouring. Stop work immediately and call all helpers for help. Use shovels to remove the concrete where the formwork is swelling. To prevent the concrete from floating back, nail transverse boards at some distance along the entire width inside the formwork. Keep in mind that the concrete will gradually fill the hole; work must be done quickly. Throw concrete at a distance of more than 1.5 meters from the emergency site.

The pressure on the formwork has noticeably weakened - try to level it. It is very good if you manage to adapt the jack and use the beams to slowly level the formwork. You can stretch a wire in a place free of concrete and use it to level the convexity. Very important: do not hit the formwork with a sledgehammer, this way you will make it even worse. The vibration will cause the concrete to float down and further disrupt the straightness of the formwork. Level the shield gradually, without excessive fanaticism. Excessive force may completely break the shield or individual fastening elements. The consequences will be very sad. As soon as you manage to align the shield, immediately fix its position. This time, check the security of the supports with special care.

This case is the easiest; all the others cause much more trouble.

Option 2. Displacement of the formwork was noticed only on the second day.

What to do if the formwork has moved

Important. Not everything that is written on construction forums, however, think with your own head before believing the first piece of advice from an “expert” that catches your eye. Many of these “experts” advise removing the formwork, and while the concrete has not yet gained strength, cut down the mound with a shovel. This is not advice, but mockery. Do not remove the formwork under any circumstances! There is a very high probability that the entire foundation will crack. It may not crumble before your eyes, but give almost imperceptible cracks, which will reduce the strength of the structure almost to zero. We noticed trouble the next day - that’s it, the train left. Wait until the concrete hardens completely, dismantle the formwork, pick up a hammer drill and work hard.

Option 3. The formwork or part of it fell while pouring concrete. The most unpleasant situation. What to do? Scratch your smart head “silently and with a smile,” remove the concrete, clean the site and start all over again.

We hope that from the second time you will understand how to install formwork correctly. To prevent this from happening, read the article carefully again. You can and should make your own improvements, but only if you have experience in constructing at least three different formworks.

Video - Possible consequences of poor-quality formwork. Gap

Conclusion

Many articles on the Internet begin with the words “the foundation has a great influence on the strength of the building.” This is true. But then you can read that “everyone can do it,” that “there is nothing complicated here,” etc. This is not true. Don't waste your time reading such advice. Think about why the earnings of professional experienced builders are several times higher than the earnings of engineers? Because professional builder He has not only theoretical knowledge, he has tried all the “scientific” recommendations with his own hands.

When starting to make formwork, you need to adhere to two rules.

1. First, you need to know the job. You shouldn’t think that everything is very simple, you can “somehow mold it” and it “will somehow stand.”
2. Second. There is no need to be afraid of any work, but you must respect it. You should always have a vision of operations several steps ahead in your head, you should be able to choose the most optimal one from several possible options.

Video - Reinforcement and formwork of shallow strip foundations

Video - Installation of braces for formwork