Storm drain for a private house it is very necessary, because it drains rain and melt water from the house and the site.

If you do not equip this system, then rain or melt water will accumulate in the soil, and this will have a detrimental effect on buildings.

In this article we will consider the topic of arranging a storm water system in a private house.

If the soil is too wet, the structure may settle and tilt.

To avoid this problem, storm drainage equipment is needed.

You can make this system yourself at the beginning of construction or install it near the built house. Next, we will analyze the storm sewer system.

Structure

• if the pipe diameter is 20 cm, then the slope will be 7 mm,
• if the pipe diameter is 15cm, the pipe diameter should be 8mm,

These options are suitable for closed system storm sewer.

For open type storm sewers have completely different parameters, for example, the slope will be 3-5 mm per 1 linear meter pipes.

Where there are connections between pipes and storm wells, the slope should be two centimeters per linear meter.

Installation of storm drainage in a private household

1. To begin with, prepare trenches of the required width and depth, taking into account the slope;
2. The bottom of the trench is well compacted and a sand cushion is made, the height of which should be twenty centimeters;
3. A pit is made in a predetermined place in order to later install a container there to collect water. You can make such a container with your own hands from concrete;
4. Channels and pipes are placed on the sand bed, everything is connected and the joints are sealed;
5. At the junction with the collector, devices are installed to retain sand and debris, inspection wells are also made, in places the pipes have bends and in areas of more than ten meters;
6. All underground channels are covered with earth and covered with gratings. When you install storm drainage systems, keep in mind that there should be drains on each roof slope.

Arrangement country house requires solving many engineering and construction issues. In addition to creating convenient and comfortable conditions for living inside the house, you will also have to equip your garden plot. One of the important buildings on suburban area is a storm drain at the dacha.

Protecting yourself from precipitation

There are practically no areas in our country where there is no precipitation. IN middle lane In Russia, the volume of rain and water from melting snow throughout the year can be measured in cubic meters. In addition, not a single dacha is immune from heavy rain, which in a limited time can oversaturate the soil on your site with moisture and turn it into a natural swamp.

After your dacha is covered by heavy rain, the fallen water will roll off the roofs and from areas with a hard, non-water-absorbing coating into the ground, excessively saturating it with moisture. Not only can this moisture cause problems for your crops, but it can also cause the foundation of your home to collapse. If there is a cellar, ground floor or basement in yours country houses– water can penetrate these rooms and partially flood them. The same situation with an excessive amount of moisture in the area can also develop during intense spring melting of the snow cover.

To protect yourself from the adverse effects of moisture, storm drains are installed in your garden plots, draining excess moisture outside your dacha, to a place where it cannot damage anything.

Main characteristics of storm drainage

Stormwater sewer system is a rather specific structure. Unlike conventional water supply, rain and melt water contain a large number of both large debris and small suspended particles. This composition of the drain implies primary treatment and the creation of a channel for the uninterrupted movement of littered water.

Composition of the storm drainage system at the dacha

The composition of the storm drainage system is not limited solely to drains that collect rain moisture from the ceilings of structures. Rain pipes are just one of the components storm drains.

In the storm country sewerage The following main components can be distinguished:

• Elements that remove rainwater and melting moisture from various areas of floors or terrain.
• Elements that collect diverted melt water away from garden beds or houses.
• Elements that allow you to accumulate or reuse accumulated moisture.

It is also worth noting that storm drainage can be created using two design methods: linear and point, or a combination of both.

Point storm drainage system at the dacha

When using this method of collecting rain or melt water, runoff is collected from hard, non-absorbent surfaces, for example roofing coverings or paved areas. Next, the wastewater is sent to receiving funnels. After collection, the wastewater is transported to the drainage system.

Linear storm drainage system at the dacha

When using a linear drainage system, all runoff from non-absorbent surfaces is drained into gutters located along such areas. After collection, rain and melt runoff is sent to the drainage system. If there is a border with a ravine or reservoir on your site, it is advisable to direct the drains towards the natural flow. As an option, rain and melt runoff can flow into a purification plant, where it undergoes primary treatment.

Recycling rain and melt water seems to be a very profitable activity. With its use, you can achieve significant savings on water bills for irrigation or cleaning. Rain and melt runoff carry relatively few pollutants and their treatment in a standard septic tank should not pose any particular problem.

We install storm drains in our country house ourselves

Despite the fact that storm drainage is quite complex engineering system– you can easily install it yourself. The situation is made easier by the fact that there are no pressure pumps in the storm sewer system, and the water in it moves by gravity. Therefore, installing a storm drain in a country house or in country house is just a more technically advanced children's igloo with spring streams. In order to competently design and install rain or melt water drainage at your dacha, you need to have only minimal technological skills.

Storm sewer installation technology

1. On initial stage the storm sewer system is being calculated. Minimum necessary elements is a system for draining water from buildings, since rainwater if there is an excess of it, it can seriously complicate your life. Next, if necessary, drainage from paths and hard-surfaced areas, for example from an asphalt parking lot, is calculated.
2. Having determined the areas from which water should be drained, it is necessary to ensure that rain moisture does not linger on such surfaces. Everything is clear with the roof - water is collected from it in a standard manner drainage system. But in order to ensure that your paths or parking lot at the dacha are not covered with water after every rain, during their construction it is necessary to provide a slope along which the water is exposed to gravitational forces will roll into water intake funnels or gutters. Similar devices - funnels or gutters - are also installed under the ends of drainpipes that collect moisture from the roof.
3. After calculation and construction of all funnels or drainage gutters, the collected water should be discharged away from the site, or into the wastewater treatment system.
4. Water drainage from water intakes can be carried out closed or open method. When using the open method, water flows into gutters closed at the top with grates. When using a closed system, water enters the collection and disposal site through a system of underground pipes.
5. Both when laying gutters and when placing pipes, building drainage structures must be placed with a slope towards the drainage area. The angle of inclination of drainage pipes and gutters is calculated in the same way as when laying an external sewer system.
6. When laying pipes and gutters, after digging trenches in the selected location, it is laid on their bottom. sand cushion at least 10 centimeters thick.
7. Pipes drainage system it does not need to be buried to a significant extent in the ground. Storm drainage works exclusively in the warm season and is not threatened by freezing problems.
8. To ensure that the system does not become clogged, it is necessary to install filter grids to collect large debris and sand traps to collect suspended small particles such as sand. At the locations of filters and sand traps for underground closed pipe laying, it is necessary to provide inspection wells and hatches for routine maintenance and unscheduled wastewater treatment.

Features of storm sewer installation

To lay storm drain gutters in an open manner, you can use ready-made solutions - concrete and plastic gutters for storm drains.

Also, storm sewer can be combined with a drainage system. In soils with a lot of moisture, constant drainage of excess water is required. To do this, pipes with holes are laid in the ground, which collect moisture from the soil and divert it away from the site. These same pipes can also be used to move rain or melt water outside the area. However, as a rule drainage pipes laid at a depth greater than the storm sewer system.

Carefully calculate the slope of the drainage pipes. Use a building level or a special theodolite.

Please note that water is a rather aggressive environment, so make the storm sewer system exclusively from materials that are not susceptible to corrosion, such as plastic or reinforced concrete. Do not use pipes with corrugated surfaces as they are extremely susceptible to clogging.

Water can find its way out everywhere, so when connecting storm drain pipes, use sealing technologies similar to conventional outdoor drains.

To prevent the water in the storm drain from freezing winter time– at the beginning of frost, the system must be completely cleaned and freed from water.

All entrances to drainage basins and storm gutters must be covered with gratings. It is easier to rake leaves from such grates than to later remove them from the bowels of the sewer system.

At each turn of the drainage pipe there must be an inspection hatch or well.

To learn more about the technology for constructing storm drains in a dacha, watch the video tutorial.

Storm drainage at the dacha: video

Owners country house Water generated from melting snow and precipitation is often annoying. The only one effective measure protection from such a scourge is the installation of a storm sewer system for a country house.

This is all the more necessary if the substrate soils are hard loams that are not permeable to liquid. On such foundations, water can remain for a long time, preventing the performance of household and garden work.

To get rid of this phenomenon, it is necessary to create conditions for the forced drainage of soil water from the territory of a country house. For this purpose, it is necessary to construct water collection devices.

Drainage ditch

One of the simplest and most accessible devices that allows you to drain water from a site is a drainage ditch. It is best to do this if the area has a slope in one direction.

It comes off to a depth below the freezing level of the soil. It is important to maintain a slope along the entire length towards the water drainage. Its size should be up to 3-5 centimeters per meter of length. This slope allows water to flow slowly enough, taking with it particles of soil, otherwise rapid silting of the storm drain of a country house may occur. See Storm drainage in a private house in your own words

At the bottom of the ditch, approximately a third of the depth, there is a layer of wild stones or concrete scrap. Then you need to pour coarse gravel, sand and cover it all with geotextiles. This will prevent rapid silting of the drainage channel. Ideally, the drainage ditch is led into the nearest storm drainage well.

In modern conditions, pipes made of various materials– steel or plastic. For greater strength, products with a corrugated wall are used for conductors of the second option. This design increases the radial strength of the product.

Storm sewer drainage ditches on the site can also be open, which simplifies their operation.

They come in the following types:

• perimeter - come off along the perimeter of the area that needs to be protected from excess moisture;
• the main ones are essentially the main channel of the river, to which tributaries converge in the form of additional drains.

Storm drainage in a private house - arrangement methods

The purpose of the storm drain is to quickly drain rainwater and melt water during the period of their greatest accumulation. The most common scheme is a surface storm drain around the house, consisting of open-top trays.

They can be cast concrete or made from prefabricated parts. Counting on a long service life, cast iron trays made by casting are used. But the most popular material for installing storm drains in a country house are plastic trays. They are quite light, durable and easy to install.

The trays are covered with grates on top to prevent clogging of the drainage channels with leaves and other debris.

But this method does not always pay off. In some cases, it is desirable to preserve the soil layer by deepening the drainage elements to a depth of about 40 centimeters. To do this, dig a ditch about half a meter deep and cover it to the top with geotextiles.

As a substrate for the bottom of a ditch gravel is poured, then lay the pipe. Gravel is again poured on top of it. And here it is necessary to check one important point.

The fact is that for buried and deep drainage, perforated pipes are used, and holes are drilled in their walls. The diameter of these holes should be less than the fractional dimensions of the gravel. In this case, the internal passage of the drain will always be free.

IN classic version use, the corrugated pipe is filled with gravel and wrapped in geotextile with overlapping edges. After this, the trench is backfilled with previously extracted soil and the turf layer is restored.

Storm sewer installation in a private house

Above, we looked at methods for installing storm drainage in a suburban area at the level of collecting water from the surface into a pipe. But this is not enough, it must be removed off site.

To do this, individual pipes are combined into a system, in the lower part of which a drain is arranged. The drainage and storm sewerage scheme on the site can be organized as follows:

1. First of all, you need to organize a storm drain on the roof, providing for this purpose drainage channels through which the water flows down and enters the drainage receiver.
2. The liquid enters the waste cavities through drains with a reliable lid in the grate design.
3. Then it flows through pipes (diameter 100 or 150 millimeters) into the rainwater well.
4. As the water accumulates, it enters the outlet pipe, which is discharged into a special container with water or simply outside the site. Storing rainwater in an underground tank is used in areas where water resources limited. It can be reused in the future for household needs, for example, for irrigation personal plot, car washing and other household needs.

This applies to the disposal of rain or melt water diverted from the house. But it is often necessary to simultaneously drain the area, which is typical in excessively flooded areas.

The drainage and storm sewer system on the site is water supply network, the main property of which is the presence of slopes that ensure free flow of liquid. Required elements designs:

1. Drainage perforated pipes. Depending on the total length of the water supply system, products from 100 to 150 millimeters are used, as well as any types of fittings that facilitate the installation of the drain system.
2. Manholes– they are installed at points where the direction of the drainage changes. Designed to monitor the condition of pipes and eliminate blockages in them. This is done using a hose with a pressurized water nozzle. The obstruction is eroded and the free flow of fluid is restored. Such wells are also called inspection wells; they are equipped with metal or plastic covers protruding above the ground. They are needed for preventive work on cleaning storm drains in a country house.

1. Collector wells– intended for system maintenance. Their diameter should allow penetration inside. The depth of the device is slightly greater than that of the observation rooms; the water settles in it. Therefore, it is necessary to periodically clean the well from sediment using a mud pump.
2. Filtration wells can also be used designed to separate debris found in storm drains. They settle in intermediate points complexly branched storm sewer system of a country house.

Standing apart are wall drainage systems designed to drain groundwater from the foundation in heavily flooded areas. In any case, the depth of such a device should be greater than the depth of the foundation.

When carrying out work on constructing such a catchment area, first of all, insulation and waterproofing of the foundation itself is carried out. Various materials are used for this:

1. Ruberoid and bitumen mastic for waterproofing.
2. Foam plastic for insulation.

Then geotextile is laid along the bottom of the trench, the edges of the fabric are folded upward. Then you need to pour gravel of the appropriate fraction and the corresponding slopes are formed. A layer of gravel is again poured over the pipes, which is covered with geotextiles with overlapping edges.

If a country house is built on an area with abundant groundwater, drainage of the basement slab is necessary. It is installed before pouring the foundation. In this case, the water collectors are installed in a horizontal plane and connected to the perimeter contour of the storm drain.

Combined drainage systems for a country house

It is logical that it is irrational to build branches from various branches of the system for each circuit. Therefore, the outlets are arranged in common, into one collector.

Watch the video

Combining individual drainage schemes is made in collector wells, and docking at any height of the collector is allowed, depending on the type of circuit, which are:

• surface, for storm drainage schemes around a country house;
• shallow contours of the drainage system under the surface of the site at a depth of up to half a meter;
• deep drainages for drainage of groundwater in heavily watered areas of a country house.

Any of the listed types can be combined into a common system with a common storage device.

Do-it-yourself storm drainage system in a private house

Before you start purchasing materials for the drainage system, you should make sure it is necessary. It is important to find out the level of groundwater during the peak period of its accumulation.

This can be done in the spring, immediately after the snow melts, and during the autumn rains. To find out, exploratory water drilling is carried out to a depth of three or four meters.

Watch the video

The presence or absence of nearby subsurface water is determined by the water content in the soil from the pits. Based on the results of the study of the samples, a decision is made on the need for deep drainage for a country house.

An important indicator is the water level in the water intakes closest to the site - wells or boreholes.

Having decided on the need to install a drainage system, it is advisable to carry out a geo-survey of the area in order to determine the slopes on it, and therefore the direction of flow.

This is especially true for shallow and deep contours. Surface tray systems for a country house can be made according to the building level.

Designing a drainage system for a country house

This is the most important stage of creating a drain from the site. It allows you to reliably calculate the amount and composition of material costs for the acquisition of components:

1. Types, quantities and sizes of drainage pipes.
2. Need in connecting parts– fittings.
3. Types of drainage channels according to their depth.
4. Number and type of trays for surface stormwater drainage.
5. Storage tank capacity.
6. Dimensions of pipes for the manufacture of inspection and drainage channels.
7. Calculate the need for building materials, including the amount and fraction of gravel, the footage of geotextile fabric.

If you carry out a simple preliminary design of a drainage sewer system for a country house yourself, then in this case it must be shown to a specialist in this area of ​​PGS design. If necessary, make appropriate changes to it and only then begin purchasing the necessary materials.

Depth of the underground part of the system

The closer to the surface the drainage pipe is located, the more actively it absorbs moisture accumulated on the surface. The depth of the depth can be from 15 centimeters.

But if the pipe is located in the treated area, then you need to take into account the depth of digging up the earth, which can be up to 30 centimeters. Shallow gutters, being at the specified depths, thaw quite quickly and remove water from the area, preventing its significant accumulations.

Watch the video

As for buried collectors for storm sewerage of a country house, operating on the groundwater horizon, this indicator depends from the depth of soil freezing. Below this zone, the drainage system actively removes water throughout the year.

Slope of underground communications

This indicator is worth paying attention to close attention. The fact is that when the slope of 3 millimeters per meter of pipeline is exceeded, the nature of the flow changes. It is doubtful that the water in the storm drain is clean.

As a result of exceeding the flow rate, the polluting components do not have time to completely drain along with the liquid and partially remain in the pipe. Gradually, the amount of precipitation increases, leading to blockage.

Such a dense layer of it can be removed from the storm drain of a country house only with a jet of water under pressure.

The basis for installing drainage is a gravel backfill. Its formation needs to be given special attention. Qualitative measurements when installing a drain can be made with a laser or extended building level.

The minimum slope for storm drainage is 0.3-0.5 centimeters per meter of pipeline, the maximum is no more than 4-5.

Installation of storm water inlet

The decisive indicators for assessing the selected storm water inlet are the volume of liquid that it can pass through itself at the time of maximum precipitation. Therefore, the determining indicator in this case is data on the amount of moisture falling in a particular area. Special cards have been developed for this.

The rapid removal of water through the storm sewer of a country house not only allows free movement around the site, but also protects the foundation from the destructive effects of moisture.

Water enters the rainwater inlet from a drain on the roof of the building. For efficient work the jet should be directed exactly into the middle of the receiving funnel.

When installing these devices, it is necessary to fulfill a number of requirements to ensure long-term operation of these devices:

1. At the installation site, a hole corresponding to the size of the device is torn off. Its depth should be approximately 30-40 centimeters greater than the vertical size of the product.
2. Arrange a backfill with gravel for the substrate, pour water on the layer and compact it thoroughly, providing a gap between the body and the backfill of up to 5-6 centimeters for concreting.
3. The distance between the side walls of the recess and the body should be at least 3-4 centimeters.
4. Connect the water intake pipes to the rainwater inlet and install it in its permanent location. In this case, it is necessary to adjust its height so that the grille is at the level of the blind area around the house.
5. Concrete the rainwater inlet body, install internal partition and a filter insert, if provided for by the design.

A storm drain in a private house is installed at the final stage of its installation for the entire site and is connected either to a storage tank or to a discharge device into the city sewer system or outside the site.

When starting such a responsible operation as installing a storm drain in a country house, you need to carefully study all the standards and rules and select the right materials for installation.

Watch the video

When installing storm sewers, SNiP number 2.04.03-85 is used, which regulates the requirements for the installation of external sewer networks. In this case, it is necessary to follow both the sequence of actions and technical requirements to materials and works.

There are many reasons why a house has to be built on a site with high groundwater. But the consequence is always the same - if you do not install protection against flooding, then every spring water will flow to the site, eroding the soil, foundation and basement of the house.

It will help you solve the problem correctly installed system drainage and storm sewerage. If the groundwater level is known at the stage of purchasing the site, then it is most profitable to plan the arrangement of drainage and storm water along with the construction of the house itself. In such cases, you can save money and make stormwater and drainage in one trench.

Carrying out stormwater and drainage sewer Even at the construction stage, you can get rid of many problems in the future Source pro-remont.org

Why are drainage and storm sewers needed?

The main task of a “storm drain” (i.e. a storm system) is to collect water from the roof – rain or melt water – using interconnected gutters and pipes. The storm drain consists of two parts - external (gutters under the roof) and underground (receivers and pipes that drain water from the house). The part that is located in the ground receives water from the roof and blind area, and then is discharged from the site.

Drainage sewerage is needed to collect excess water from the ground, i.e. drain it. The main task of drainage is to prevent the groundwater level from rising and to prevent flooding of the site.

Since both systems provide for the discharge of water into special storage tanks, the combined scheme of drainage and storm water looks very attractive in terms of functionality and economy. The collected water can be used for technical purposes, such as irrigation.

It is important!“In the same trench” does not mean that the same pipes are used for stormwater and drainage. This scheme is strictly prohibited for the reason that during seasonal increases in the amount of precipitation, the storm drain is systematically overfilled. If the same pipe works as a drainage pipe, then at best the drainage will temporarily cease to function.

Drainage and storm sewerage: types of these systems and their features

The systems have absolutely different structure, the only similar elements are pipes and wells. At the same time, they differ not only in structure, but also in the method of installation.

Drainage sewer (closed type)

Located only underground, accordingly, refers to closed type sewer systems. The only elements that are partially located above the surface are wells.

Source domstroim.org

There are several factors that determine whether a site needs a drainage system or not. It is done in the following cases:

if the aquifer is located high enough on the site;

the soil is clayey or loamy;

floods often occur in the area where the site is located;

a buried foundation is being built;

The site is located in a lowland.

If one of these conditions is met, then most likely without drainage there will be problems with flooding or high humidity basement and foundation.

The drainage system consists of the following elements:

Drains(drainage pipes for sewerage, made of geotextile and having perforations through which water enters the drainage).

Sand traps(prevent pipes from becoming clogged if silt and sand frequently enter).

System drainage. Conducts water purified from silt and sand directly into drainage wells.

Several types wells.

After the wells, where the water is purified, it enters a common storage tank, and then it is either used for personal needs or discharged into the waste system.

Materials from which drains are made:

Plastic. Durable, not very expensive, very strong and resistant to low temperatures.

This is what a plastic drainage intermediate well looks like Source kostroma.moydom.ru

On our website you can find contacts construction companies who offer design and installation services for water supply and sewerage. You can communicate directly with representatives by visiting the “Low-Rise Country” exhibition of houses.

Asbestos cement. Cheap, but very short-lived - after just a few years, growths may appear on asbestos-cement pipes.

Ceramics. Before the advent of plastic, ceramics were the best option

Standards pipes:

marking SN 2-4 (depth up to 3 meters);

marking SN 6 and what goes above for depths up to 5 meters.

Video description

An example of arranging a drainage system is shown in the video:

Storm sewer system (open type)

“Storm drain” consists of two parts – upper and lower. The system includes:

gutters, into which water enters from the roof, and which lead it further;

funnels and vertical pipes. Water enters the funnels and then flows through vertical pipes into bottom part"storm drains";

clamps to strengthen pipes when connecting them;

tees and swivel elbows, which connect horizontal and vertical pipes with each other; a funnel can also be attached there;

wells.

The system is assembled like a construction kit; you need to draw up a drawing of the system, carefully fasten the parts together and get a finished storm drain.

The most common types of gutters used are: materials:

galvanized iron;

• plastic (PVC).

What the storm drain will be made of is selected depending on the structure of the house, its architecture and the material from which the roof is made. You can add mesh and anti-icing cable to the gutters to prevent ice from clogging the water outlet in the spring.

Installation of an anti-icing system on the roof of a house Source rmnt.ru

For the manufacture of intermediate and main wells, the following materials are used:

PVC(expensive, but very effective option);

Brick and stone(durable, but must be assembled correctly);

Reinforced concrete rings(difficult to install);

Their design is exactly the same as that of a closed drainage.

Combination of storm and drainage sewers

The entire system is installed in one trench. The drainage and storm sewer scheme on the site is quite simple. Through the junction tee, water from outside and inside (precipitation and groundwater) will end up in the drainage well.

Drainage pipes run throughout the site, collect water and then it is discharged into wells, where it is pumped out of the site. In the “storm drain”, water is collected and discharged into a collector drain, after which, through the well mentioned above, it enters the main pipe system, which exists independently of the drainage, but in one trench (perforation is not needed for the storm system). Through the main pipe system, water enters the bypass well, in which, just like in the drainage, it is pumped out by a pump.

Usually the main well is located at the lowest point of the site and water from it has to be pumped out with a pump Source dp32.ru

Connecting stormwater and drainage systems is very beneficial, all that is required is a wide trench, all that is necessary is to designate a place for a drainage main, in which water from both systems will flow along different paths so that they are not overloaded.

Through the junction tee, water from the outside and inside (precipitation and groundwater) will flow into the drainage well.

The principle of operation of drainage and storm sewerage

Storm drainage: point drainage. Point elements are necessary for collecting precipitation, be it rain, melted snow, or melted hail. Water can be sent through gutters to the drainage system, and then sent into special ditches with grates, through which water will be removed from the site. This is very important when the building is located on a slope, since when choosing correct angle there will be no need to build additional gutters, but discharge water directly into the ditches.

With linear drainage, water is discharged through gutters and funnels into a special main system consisting of pipes that are suitable for drainage and storm sewerage. Further along this main system, the wastewater enters the collector, and then, depending on the project, the water may go into a storage tank, or maybe beyond the site.

Source dp32.ru

At deep drainage, water from rising groundwater, gradually, in separate parts discharged into the well, and from there it is pumped out and discharged. This system has 3 types:

Horizontal;

Vertical;

Wall-mounted. If there is a basement or ground floor in the house, groundwater must be drained from it. Wall drainage works most effectively - a moisture collector is installed near the walls, and the wall itself is carefully waterproofed.

Care and instructions for use

Both systems require regular inspection and cleaning of silt, sand, clay and other debris. Seasonal inspections are required - in late autumn when the rainy season ends and at the end of winter to ensure that the drainage capacity is not compromised. Despite various filters, sand traps and debris nets, dirt still gets inside. They are found everywhere: in pipes, gutters and wells. If left unattended, the system will simply become clogged and stop functioning.

Timely cleaning of the pipes of the drainage and storm water disposal system at the dacha will avoid many problems Source dp32.ru

To clean the pipe, just turn on the pump at maximum power and run ordinary water from a hose through the pipes; it will collect all the dirt and bring it into the well. You can pour water into the gutters and it will also collect all the dirt and then flow through the vertical pipes. The stronger the pressure, the more dirt and debris will come out.

Already in the pump, all the water is pumped out with an even more powerful pump or suction pump; when all the water runs out, it will be necessary to clean the walls. Most often, this ends with flushing, but if the system has not been looked after for a long time, it happens that you have to manually clean the walls and bottom of the well using a scraper. Therefore, regular cleaning is necessary to ensure that both systems operate reliably.

Rules for installing a dual system

Proper installation of a combined system must be carried out according to a pre-created project, which specifies the nuances regarding connection to the site and synchronization of the operation of wells, so that both drainage and stormwater work properly both in normal mode and during overload.

When installing, the following nuances must be taken into account:

Arranging a drainage system is quite an expensive pleasure. If something goes wrong and after a few years the drainage stops working, then you will have to spend no less money to restore it than to install a new one, especially considering that you will have to “pick it apart” landscape design. As a result, drainage installation should be done by professionals.

During the flood period, each of the systems will be overloaded. Since they collect moisture from different sources, then drains must be laid for each system separately. You can do this in the same trench, but at different depths. A common well can be used to collect water.

When digging trenches for drains, you should definitely take into account that the bottom of the hole will be covered with crushed stone and sand. This means that if it is necessary to place a drain at a certain depth, the hole must be dug deeper to the thickness of the layers of sand and crushed stone.

The pit for the drainage system well must be deep enough Source besplatka.ua

Typically, water is collected in a storage tank (pit or reservoir), from where it is used for technical needs or pumped into reservoirs or simply away from the site. If perforated pipes are used for drainage, the outlet pipes are always solid. When combining them vertically in one trench, the perforated ones are laid on the bottom, and the regular ones on top.

If the main pipes and drains are combined horizontally in a trench, then they are laid parallel, at a short distance from each other (so that if the main pipe is damaged, water from there does not get into the drainage system and did not overload it).

Video description

About the installation of a stormwater system and drainage in the following video:

Conclusion

A combined drainage and storm sewer system is not only effective means to get rid of flooding of the area, but it is also enough advantageous offer, as it will simplify the system and save on the purchase of many additional elements. It turns out that the integrity of the foundation will be preserved and money will be saved on waterproofing and arrangement of both sewers separately.

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Reliable storm drainage – guaranteed protection area from the flood

It's unlikely that anyone will like it when all house plot after the rain it turns into a water park. Problems with drainage can cause poor condition of lawns, flower beds, and general form the area is suffering. Fortunately, storm drainage according to SNiP is not so complex design, so you can handle its construction on your own.

Let's understand the design and operating principle of storm drains

Storm sewerage, depending on the method of organizing water drainage from the site, can be divided into:

• open— open-type storm drainage does not require pipe laying. Water drainage is organized as follows: water is drained from the roofs of the house through drainage trays, then delivered through a pipe to a storm inlet in the form of a grid ( spot diagram wastewater collection);

To drain wastewater directly from the site, a linear wastewater collection scheme is used.
For this purpose special ready-made blocks, from which the drainage channel is assembled. The upper part of such a block is covered with a grate, through which water gets inside; channels are laid, usually along the paths.

• closed the wastewater disposal system is much more complex. The water first enters a device for sifting out sand and fine suspended matter, then it is transported through pipes laid underground to treatment facilities, and only after that it is discharged into the general city sewer network. Option using treatment facilities and pumps are not used in everyday life; this option is used only for servicing large enterprises.

Since the design of the type 2 drainage system is not simple, in private construction an open or combined storm drain is more often used. This allows you to save time and guarantee reliable drainage of water from the site.

Proper organization of drainage

For normal operation of a storm drain, it is not enough to simply provide a slope and direct the runoff outside the site. It will be necessary to perform at least an approximate calculation of the volume of water discharged so that none of the sections of the storm drain are overloaded.

Regulatory Requirements

The main standard defining the operating conditions of storm sewerage is SNiP 2.04.03-85 and its updated version of 2012 SP 32.13330.2012. Since we are primarily interested in a storm sewer system for a private home, we will pay attention only to gravity sewerage.

When installing a storm drain in a country house on your own, the recommendations of SNiP are not mandatory, but you should still listen to them, because the performance of the system as a whole depends on their implementation.

From the entire document it is worth highlighting:

• standardization of slopes depending on the material of the tray. In this matter, everything depends on the surface roughness, for example, for asphalt concrete trays the minimum slope should not be less than 0.003, but for trays with polymer coating slope 0.001 allowed;

The width of the bottom of ditches and ditches should not be less than 0.3 m, and the depth is not recommended to be less than 0.4 m;

• When using a closed sewer system, the slope depends on the diameter of the pipes. Pipes with a diameter of 150 mm must be laid with a minimum slope of 0.008, 200 mm - 0.007. In this case, it is assumed that the pipeline will operate in a free-flow mode with a filling in the region of 0.7-0.8;
• for pipe diameters up to 500 mm, SNiP recommends that the installation depth be taken to be 0.3 m below the depth of soil freezing in winter. The laying depth refers to the mark of the bottom of the trench into which the pipe is laid;
• With regard to inspection wells, the standard allows the installation of wells with a diameter of 600 mm (on pipes with a diameter of up to 150 mm) so that a cleaning mechanism can be introduced into it. There is no provision for people to descend into them.

Storm sewers and drainage systems should not be combined into one. In a heavy rainfall, the pipes simply cannot cope with the drainage of water, and they will become dirty much faster.

In principle, if you are installing a storm drain with your own hands outside the city, then from the entire SNiP, you should pay attention only to the diameters of the pipes and the minimum slope. The remaining requirements can be taken as recommendations.

Basic elements of storm drains

For a better understanding of the operation and design of storm sewers, we will list all the elements that are required for its construction and briefly define their purpose:

• each roof slope must be equipped with a gutter suspended on holders so that water will be delivered to the drainpipe (you can use a diameter of 100 mm);
• under the release of each drainpipe a rainwater inlet is installed. Through the grate, water enters the sand trap; the first filter on the path of rainwater in the form of a grate prevents small pebbles, branches, leaves, etc. from entering the system. But in the sand trap, water settles; under the influence of gravity, sand particles settle to the bottom and other small debris, this is much better than if sand settles in the pipes;

A simple gravity sand trap is enough for your home.
The price of such a device depends on the material and starts at approximately 1200-1500 rubles for a plastic model; concrete analogues will cost 70-80% more.

• To drain water from the site, prefabricated trays (concrete or polymer) are used, assembled from separate sections and installed so that the grid on the surface is flush with the ground. A sand trap is installed at the end of the tray and from it the rainwater moves on;
• through pipes laid below the freezing depth, water is directed either to or to the central sewer network, or is simply discharged outside the site, for example, to a ravine or river;

• You will also need to install inspection wells at pipeline turns and at their junctions.

If rainwater needs to be reused, filter cartridges can be used for additional purification.
They can be installed either in a manhole or directly in a storm drain.
Outwardly it looks like a piece of pipe with filter media, and the principle of operation resembles the simplest household filters for drinking water.

The calculation itself is not complicated, but rather labor-intensive and requires attention; you will have to work with a lot of coefficients and take into account local climatic conditions. The main document, as before, is SNiP 2.04.03-85.

Main calculation formula has the form:

where q20 is the intensity of precipitation lasting 20 minutes, determined according to SNiP 2.04.03-85, l/s per 1 ha;

F – catchment area, ha. It is not the actual roof area that is calculated, but its projection onto horizontal plane;

Ψ – runoff coefficient, depends on the type of material.

As for the calculation of individual sections of the network, the point comes down to ensuring the required slope and flow speed. These parameters must be within the limits recommended in SNiP.

As for the need for calculations, it all depends on the construction site and type of structure. If you just need to ensure normal drainage of rainwater from a site outside the city, then the instructions do not require mandatory calculations; you can simply take the diameter of the pipe with a small margin.

Sewage installation

The gutter at the edge of the roof slope is attached to special holders (the slope of the gutter is given in the region of 2%), and a drainpipe is also installed. In order to slightly reduce the speed of the water, the lower end of the drainpipe is installed at an angle of 20-30° to the vertical. In no case should its end be brought to the ground; there should be a distance of about 10 centimeters between the storm inlet grate and the end of the pipe.

In theory, it is necessary to ensure that the pipes are below the freezing depth, but in practice this requirement is not always met. If the soil freezes to 80-110 cm in winter, then taking into account the recommendations of SNiP, trenches will have to be dug to a depth of 110-140 cm, and excavation– one of the most labor-intensive stages.

To reduce the labor intensity of the work, you can simply insulate the storm sewer pipe. But it’s still not worth taking risks and laying it 20 cm from the surface of the earth.

The next important stage is ensuring the slope. A level will come in handy here; with its help, it is easy to control the slope of the trench at key points when profiling its bottom. It will not be so convenient to work with a building level.

Sometimes under the pipe to give required slope They lay down fragments of bricks and stones. Is not The best decision problems, the soil under the pipe will be under-compacted, then it will begin to work like a beam on 2 supports, which will affect its durability.

The trays are installed so that the gratings are flush with the ground. When drawing up the project, the entire site is divided into drainage basins, and a separate tray provides water drainage from each of them.

The issue of wastewater discharge is resolved individually. For city houses, the best option is discharge into the citywide network, for suburban real estate - either a collector or simply discharge outside the site.

Summarizing

Storm drainage in a private house is a simple thing, but simply necessary for normal condition plot. In the most advanced cases, problems with drainage can even lead to the erosion of the foundation of the house; it is clear that this does not increase the service life. So it’s better to resolve this issue right away rather than putting it off for later.

The video in this article is a small master class on how to install a storm drain.