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When making a boat out of plywood, you will face two main problems. First, you need to properly measure and fabricate the parts. Secondly, it is important to properly assemble the boat frame. Later in the article, I will describe in detail how to calculate the dimensions for all component parts, and during the construction of the frame I will focus on especially important points.

Dimensions and Drawings

The first thing to do is decide on the size of the boat. We will make a boat 3000 mm long, 1400 wide and 500 mm high.
Let's decide on the length of the base of the frame. To do this, we need to know the length of the boat, the two angles a and b, and the height of the boat.

We know the length and height - 3000mm and 500mm. Angle a - 100, angle b - 120.

Knowing these values, we calculate the length of the base of the frame.

L = 3000- (h * tg (a-90) + h * tg (b-90)) = 2623 where h is the height of the boat

Now we will find the length of the nose and transom. Since they are tilted, their length will be greater than the height of the boat.

L transom = √ (〖(h * tan (a-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) = 508

L nose = √ (〖(h * tg (b-90))〗 ^ 2 + h ^ 2) = 577

It is necessary to determine the width of the bottom. Let's take half of the boat's width - 700 mm. The bottom width will be 10% smaller, i.e. 630 mm. The boat reaches its maximum width in 1/3 of the transom.

In our case, the maximum width will be 1000 mm from the end of the boat. Thus, we transform the beam, so that the maximum bend would be at the point 1/3 * the length of the boat from the transom.

The length of the plywood for the board will be equal to the length of the transformed beams (top and bottom, respectively). The width will be equal to the length of the bow on one side and the length of the transom on the other.

Other sizes depend on the situation.

Boat frame

The basis will be a beam of 50 * 50 * 2523 mm. To it, on one side, we screw the transom 50 * 50 * 630 mm, at an angle of 90 degrees. From the ends of the trance we fasten the deformed beams to the nose (the maximum convexity of the beam is 1000 mm from the transom).

We make 6 equally spaced cuts along the entire base (from the bottom side). The dimensions of the cutouts are 50 * 25 mm. Insert 6 beams 25 * 25 mm along the cutouts. We attach them to the base and side beams. The bottom of the frame is ready.

We fasten the nose and transom. Between the nose and the transom, we again fasten the deformed beams, but now at the top. The distance between the side beams is 500 mm high and 350 mm wide. In fact, our sides are located at an angle to the base (angle, approximately 120 degrees at the point of maximum convexity).

We make a frame for the sides

Note. Pay attention to how the beams are screwed: from the edge of the upper to the edge of the lower beam. It is important!
For this, we use a bar of 25 * 25 mm.

Frame sheathing

We fasten the plywood to the beams with self-tapping screws 20 mm long. First, we fix the sides. The plywood should fit snugly against the frame.

Then we sheathe the transom and the bottom of the boat.

We glue all plywood joints with waterproof glue. Apply glue to any areas of the boat that you think are vulnerable.

Next, we sew up the bow of the boat and fasten the seats. We trim the boat from the inside (optional). You can make the floor and not sheathe the boards, it all depends on how much plywood you have. Do not board the inside of the boat, this will add extra weight.

All the remaining parts are also to your taste, the boat is ready and can be put on the water.

DOCOO - Special for

Project, drawings, sketches and description of manufacturing technology
boats from one sheet of plywood

I bring to your attention project, sketches and description of the boat manufacturing technology from one sheet of plywood... The design and technology were developed by me based on the experience of building and operating more than 50 such boats. If you do as it is written, avoiding big smoke breaks, then you can build this boat in two weeks, or even faster. In general, this is a fishing boat for "not rich Buratino", moreover, who does not have the experience of a master carpenter, for whom his dad Carlo was famous. The cost of basic materials (a sheet of plywood measuring 3x1.5 m; slats, paint and epoxy) was only 625 rubles.

The main materials needed to build a boat:

• coin (no matter what value and which country);
• waterproof plywood of the FSF grade - 1 sheet with a size of 1500x3000 mm and a thickness of 4 mm;
• side rails: 3-meter section 10x40 mm - 4 pieces;
• meter section 25x50 mm - 2 pieces;
• bottom rails: 2.5-meter section 20x40 ... 50 mm - 2 pieces;
• 90 cm section 10x40 mm - 6 pieces;
• boards: semi-bulkhead - support for the can (dimensions 1200x125x15 mm) - 1 piece;
• can (dimensions 1200x250x25 mm) - 1 piece;
• transom harness (dimensions 1000x140x20 mm) - 1 piece;
• support for the rower's legs (dimensions 1000x50x25 mm) - 1 piece;
• epoxy glue - 5 kg;
• dye;
• fiberglass - 3 m (with a width of 0.9 m);
• copper wire with a diameter of 1.5 mm, nails, screws.

Tool: saw, drill with drills, clamps, planer, emery cloth.

P. S. It is necessary to purchase oarlocks (fig. 1). I make these myself from stainless steel. So far, there have been no complaints about their quality.

Technology for building a boat from one sheet of plywood

I want to say right away that we will build a boat with a flat bottom. This design is simpler and more reliable.

1. Take a sheet of plywood and mark the cheekbone line and part of the transom of one starboard side (ABC line in Fig. 2) according to the sketch using a rail. It is possible to hammer carnations into the "reference" points. Dimensions are given in millimeters out of habit, it was possible to give them in centimeters. And dimensional accuracy is not particularly needed here. A little more or less ... The main thing is that the bottom pattern is symmetrical.

2. Saw out a part of the transom and the right cheekbone along the ABC line (see Fig. 2).

3. We put the resulting cut off part (in Fig. 2 - the right side) on the left side, fix the latter there with clamps or nails so that it does not budge, and with its help, as according to a template, mark out the bottom and the transom separately. In this case, the symmetry of the bottom and the transom will be fully observed. Note that as a result of the cutting operations performed from a sheet of plywood, we have two pieces that will be used to make the sides, and a transom.

4. Along the edge of the stern, bottom and the corresponding edge of the transom, drill holes with a diameter of 1.6 mm every 150 mm.

5. Screw the transom to the bottom with a wire (using the holes).

6. Install the bottom on a stool and three chairs (fig. 3). Using classical techniques and classical literature ("Queen Margot", "War and Peace"), we create the required bottom deflection of 100 mm and the desired transom slope. (At the same time, it is good to put slats under the bottom, which will then go to the sides, especially if plywood is 4 mm thick).

7. On one of the remaining pieces of plywood, mark the contours of the side, taking into account the slope of the transom. To do this, the side blank is pressed against the bottom cheekbone. For convenience, you can drill holes in the transom at the top and screw the workpiece to it with wire, but you still need an assistant to mark the side, who will hold the bow of the workpiece of the future side, and draw with a pencil the line of contact of the workpiece with the bottom and the stem line that remains for him.

8. We cut out the board, and then, using it as a template, we cut out the other board. We remove the formed irregularities with a plane or, what is better, with a rougher sandpaper wrapped around a wooden block. They try to make the sides as identical as possible.

9. Along the edges of the bottom and the corresponding edges of the sides, we drill holes with a pitch of 150 mm, coat the boat with an anti-rotting liquid, for example, "Senezh", which will significantly increase the service life of the boat, especially if the plywood is birch, and we sew the boat with copper wire 1.5 mm in diameter ... We form the twists from the outside. Please note that the board when docked with the bottom is placed on the bottom. The transom is also placed on the bottom and placed inside the sides.

10. Set down and tap the staple wire with a hammer.

11. We insert the can and the bulkhead, temporarily reinforcing them with screws, and glue the strips along the sides. Short strips, in the middle of which there will be holes for the oarlocks, are pre-punched on the mustache and glued between the inner side rail and the plywood side. The center of the hole for the oarlocks is 300 mm from the can (seat). We glue knits (structural elements of the ship's hull for connecting separate parts of the hull, located at an angle to one another), temporarily fixing them with clamps, nails or screws on the "Flies". "Fly" or "Crack" is a wooden or plywood washer of any shape for a temporary nail (screw), so that later it would be easier to remove it.

12. We glue the joints of the bottom and sides from the inside with fiberglass in three layers. In this case, the width of the inner strip is 25 mm, the middle one is 40 mm, and the outer (top) one is 50 mm. Before pasting these joints from the outside, the staples should be bitten off. We work on irregularities with a plane and a sandpaper, round the cheekbone from the outside. We drill holes in the knits so that an anchor rope, mooring lines, a cage, etc. can be tied to the ends. Although I don’t believe in omens, I noticed that the “coin” helps even those who don’t believe it. We glue the stop and slats under the feet and on the bottom in order to save the paint and, accordingly, the plywood from scuffs and getting wet. We place these strips across the inside of the case, and along the outside.

13. Cut out and glue the board to the transom.

14. In all the holes left over from the "temporary" screws and nails, we hammer in the dowel (wooden nails), greased with epoxy. When the epoxy hardens, the excess is cut off, and the location of the nail is putty and cleaned. It is better to paint the boat with pentaphthalic paint for the outer surfaces. Just check if the used decay fluid is compatible with this paint. And in general, it is useful to read what is written on the paint can.

15. The distance from the edge of the can to the hole for the oarlock, as already mentioned, is 30 cm. We drill a hole with a diameter of 17 mm in a thick rail. If there is no drill with a diameter of 17 mm, then you can drill a hole with a smaller diameter, and then expand it with some suitable piece of iron. A stainless steel or brass tube of a suitable diameter is inserted into the resulting hole (aluminum will quickly wear off, iron will rust) with a length of about 70 mm with a wall thickness of at least 1.5 mm. Before inserting the tube into the hole, it is wrapped with glass cloth soaked in epoxy. From above, the tube is recessed flush with the board so that the fishing line or net does not cling to it. If the tube is larger than necessary, the inner rail will have to be taken thicker. It is desirable that these tubes are the only metal parts in the entire structure (not counting, of course, paper clips). You can raise the sub-lock higher using a "pillow" - a bar 30 ... 40 mm thick, which will have to be glued to the gunwale and secured with pins. The tube should then be taken longer. Rowing will be more comfortable, but those who use nets claim that such a "pillow" gets in the way.

Oars. There are many options for making oars. They are made from solid boards, slats, pipes. Anglican boatmen recommend assembling the oar spindle from 14 slats of ash grown on an open section of the southern slope, and only slats that are sawn only from the northern part of the trunk are suitable! I got a satisfactory result by completing the spindle and oar handle from a 2-meter bar with a section of 50x50 mm. True, the same beam turned out to be better, but glued from an inch board. As a blade, I inserted plywood 400x200 mm in size and 6 mm thick into the slot of the spindle. At the blade, the spindle is pierced to a diameter of 35 mm. I left the section square in front of the handle. The oar is easier to handle if the center of gravity of the oar is closer to the oarlock. Sometimes for this, lead is even washed down in the handles. The paddle turns out to be 220 cm long, the blade is fixed in the slot with glue and two homemade (made of wire with a diameter of 4 mm) aluminum rivets. Do not make your oars shorter than 2 m, as it will be very difficult to row against the wind and current with such oars. You can buy oars, I came across oars with plastic blades in the store, but they cost 750 rubles, and the materials for the whole boat were only 625 rubles.

P. S. Do not forget to stick the coin.

What can be changed and why when building a boat

Bottom. If you swim not far, there are no waves on the reservoir, and every cm of precipitation matters, the bottom can generally be made straight (no curvature). But on such a boat, the stern will begin to pull the water behind it and it will be difficult to row. In this case, it is better to make the bottom of a boat 120 cm wide wider (about 1 m) with a transom width of 80 cm.

If you have to wade through the reeds, you can make the bottom narrower, but if it is less than 70 cm wide, you will not “shoot” and you will have to carefully throw the spinning rod. Especially if the water is cold!

For those who wish build yourself a boat out of one sheet of plywood shaped like ordinary wooden keel boat, in Fig. 4 shows the construction of the "keel", which is formed when the bottom is formed from two blanks of plywood, joined at an angle of 100 ° ... 120 °.

Nose. If the bow of the boat is made rectangular, as in the “optimist”, its carrying capacity and stability will increase. It will be possible to swim on it and three of us, if you behave carefully. But paddling against the waves and wind, as well as wading through the reeds, will be more difficult. You will also need to find a piece of plywood or a plank for the bow, which will also increase the weight of the boat.

Motor. If the transom is reinforced, you can also hang a 5-liter motor on it. with., but it is much safer to use a motor with a capacity of no more than 2 liters. with. or the Snetok electric motor, for example. But again, this is additional weight.

Fodder can. A permanent stern can, of course, will increase the weight of the boat, but after a long rowing and fishing, every extra gram of the boat seems to be a kilogram. You can store something in boxes in the form of boxes, but remember, in order to get something from there, you have to get up from the can, and this is not always safe.

Keel. A similar fin in the aft part of the boat (its dimensions: length 1 m, height 7 cm, thickness 25 mm) will help, especially for an inexperienced rower, keep the boat on course, but it will be a hindrance when the boat moves away from the shore with a shoal. Actually, I advise you to make a keel, but if it interferes, then the plane has already been invented, but I do not advise you to earn the keel with an ax.

Sail. For our boat, a sail, a rudder and a centerboard from an "optimist" are quite acceptable. The result is a small "Ochakovskaya shalanda".

However, when starting to upgrade your boat, remember that any improvements and adaptations entail a whole lot of problems and additional materials. Maybe it will be easier to find a project for another boat. On the site, the site, for example, there are very many of them, and. The advantages of this project: the minimum cost and labor intensity, the absence of special requirements for the qualifications of the master-performer and very satisfactory (!) Consumer qualities of the boat.

What and what can be replaced during boat construction

Plywood of the FSF brand will be completely replaced by plywood of the FC brand, only the latter, after gluing, will have to be coated with hot drying oil and painted over more thoroughly. There are known examples when, with careful care, boats from such plywood served for many years. If there is no coniferous wood for the slats, then hardwood is quite suitable for such purposes. After all, you don't have to go around Cape Horn, but in a few years, perhaps even the birch slats will not rot. Remember, they are made from soft aspen and poplar, and they serve for many years. True, it is better to take ash (slats) and linden (planks) from hardwood.

If plywood of the required size is not available, one or another can be assembled from separate pieces. In this case, options are possible. For example, if the length of the bottom turns out to be shorter than the required one by only 20 cm, and your own weight is less than 90 kg, you can limit this length. Note that there is no need to grind the edges of the plywood to be joined; it is easier and safer to just glue them back to back. On the inside of the case, on the joint, you will need to put a strip 10 ... 15 mm thick and 5 ... 7 cm wide, and on the outside a strip of fiberglass. Next, the joint is sewn with wire, and if there is no wire, it can be done with a thread or twine (better synthetics). The holes for the wire can be drilled or made with a triangular awl, for example. And if you get holes with a diameter of not 1.6 mm, but more, it's okay, all the same, the epoxy will seal them up.

What can you save on

If there is a shortage of fiberglass, strips from it can be cut narrower, but still at least 3 cm wide, and two layers will also allow you to reliably seal the joint. If necessary, any waterproof glue will completely replace the epoxy, but at the same time, at the bottom of the cheekbone, it will be necessary to glue a rail with a section of 30x25 mm and organize the fastening of the bottom with sides on screws, placing the latter with a step of 100 ... 150 mm. In this case, the rail is first glued to the board (with a release for the edge by about 5 mm), and then "remove the bead", that is, they pierce it for a snug fit to the bottom.

The slats can be attached to the sides without glue (only with nails or screws, having previously coated them with paint). But then it will be necessary to increase the dimensions of the cross-section of the slats by about a third, and the size of the knits - twice, by cutting them out of a board with a thickness of at least 30 mm (it is known that the glued part works as a whole, and from hammered parts, like collective farmers on a collective farm ( seemingly together, but ...).

Quite good sublocks will also be obtained from a steel tube, which will need to be welded to the bar and screwed with M8 bolts. If there are tubes of too large a diameter, then insert liners from plastic bottles into them. With such inserts, the oarlocks do not creak, and it seems to me that even rowing becomes easier with them. The diameter of the oarlocks' axes should not be more than 12 mm, and less than 10 mm is somehow not entirely practical.

Plywood (if the required format is not available), as already mentioned, can be joined without burying, but simply end-to-end, putting one strip of fiberglass on the outside, and a 20x50 mm bar from the inside.

Mistakes when building a boat

If your weight is 90 kg or more, you cannot hold the bottom with the slats provided by the project. It will bend down under your feet, and bend up with water (the sediment has increased). The service life of the boat will decrease very significantly, so in this case you will have to take thicker plywood on the bottom (at least 6 mm). Or you will need to glue transverse slats (flora) with a cross section of at least 20x50 mm to the bottom. Such slats are glued with an edge with a step of 30 cm. Although one of my acquaintances (net weight - 105 kg) two years ago, having taken a boat from me, vowed to go on a diet and lose weight up to 80 kg. I lied, of course. Nevertheless, the boat still serves, but he rarely fishes.

It is clear that when marking the bottom and sides, the rail cannot be laid - bend the same way, using only three starting points. Therefore, so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, follow the proposed cutting technology. Of course, the crooked boat will also keep on the water, but ...!

It is faster and cheaper to use nails when building a boat, and with the help of screws, the work can be done more accurately, if you do not forget to drill a hole under each screw and lubricate the screw itself with some kind of oil (even vegetable). Otherwise, then this screw cannot be unscrewed. When attaching the rails to fix them in the desired position, it is advisable to use at least two clamps, for example, from a conventional meat grinder. After all, it is difficult to hold the slats with your hands. For fastening the strips, it is better to take screws with a length of 20 ... 25 mm larger with a semicircular head for a flat-blade screwdriver. And put "flies" or metal washers under them.

They begin to fasten the strips from any selected point, acting in the future in one direction (it seems to me that it is more convenient to start fastening the outer strips from the middle, and the inner ones from the transom). In this case, the nails (screws) are installed in a row, as otherwise "bubbles" can turn out. And so that the boat does not turn out to be crooked, when fastening symmetrical rails on the sides, nails are alternately driven into the rail on one side, then into the rail on the other.

You cannot "save" epoxy by applying too thin a layer of resin to the surfaces to be glued. In this case, the epoxy will simply be absorbed into the wood and nothing will remain on the glue layer. Let me remind you that the approximate consumption of resin should be about 200 g for a 3-meter strip or strip of fiberglass of the same length. Apply epoxy with a brush or spatula, if, after compressing the parts to be glued, excess resin is squeezed out, then everything is correct. By the way, if you hurry, you can use the "extra" resin to glue the seams, apply it instead of varnish to the body, and putty the knot holes. Based on my own experience, I can say that usually more than 200 g of resin at a time cannot be used (and this despite the fact that everything is ready for assembly). In short, hurry up! Otherwise, the resin will harden or boil. In the summer, in the sun, the resin in the jar hardens or even boils in a few minutes. Especially ED-16. The standard package of epoxy says that you need to work with it with gloves, so do not skimp on them. Well, if there are no gloves, then pre-smear your hands with oil, preferably vegetable, and sprinkle them with powder, for example, talcum powder or flour, so as not to stain the parts to be glued with greasy hands. Or you can simply lather your hands and then let the soap dry. It is also better to wipe your hands off the resin with the help of vegetable oil and a rag, and almost any solvents are suitable for this (acetone, 646, solvent). Gloves will also last longer if they are soaped, dried, and washed with soap and water after work.

Your safety when building a boat and afterwards!

Protect your face and eyes from the resin, and most importantly, from the hardener. As you know, there are different hardeners, but those that I came across included cyanides. I hope everyone has heard about the properties of potassium cyanide.

Plywood, of course, does not sink, but its buoyancy is minimal, and it is clear that a boat filled with water will not keep you afloat with its load. So it's helpful to have at least 10/7 chunks of Styrofoam or plastic bottles in the boat. It is best to place them under the can on the side of the bow in a bag, which should be securely tied to the boat - on the lifeboats under the seats there used to be sealed tanks (made of galvanized sheet) with air. In the stern, it is good to have a foam plate 5 ... 10 cm thick and 40x50 cm in size as a seat for a passenger, and also for buoyancy. And it is convenient to put something on it that requires a dry place. You can make the jar lower, for example, 100 mm high, which will allow you to sit higher in good weather, placing the same foam plate on the jar (on which, by the way, it is warmer to sit). To prevent the foam from crumbling, sew a bag from an old shirt for the stove. The bag with this stove must be tied to the jar. And it is more convenient to tie the stern plate to the footrest.

The distance from the edge of the can to the footrest is average-standard and is 70 cm, but it is wiser to glue the stop at a distance that is convenient for you.

Remember also, the boat is twice as light as you, and it is very easy to turn it over if handling it carelessly. In general, the boat is quite stable, so over time there is a feeling that it is not able to roll over at all. However, this is not at all the case.

Glass cloth, so that glass dust does not fly from it, is impregnated (oiled) at the manufacturing plant. Therefore, in order to glue it more reliably, the fabric must be degreased, which I do with an open-coil electric stove. I warm the cloth until the smoke stops coming out. You can burn the fabric in the electric stove oven, but there will be smoke in the kitchen! It is not necessary to anneal a special shipbuilding fabric, the composition with which it is impregnated does not interfere with adhesion, but you are unlikely to get it. Just in case, I would like to inform you about the brand of this fabric - T-11-GVS-9.

All photos from the article

The boat is an indispensable element of fishing or summer holidays on the river. Of course, a good boat, even if it is a small boat, is quite expensive. However, you can make it yourself from plywood, and this task is not as difficult as many might think.

In this article, we will look at how to build a plywood boat yourself, which can diversify your vacation.

General information

To build a plywood boat, you only need a simple set of tools that every home craftsman has, as well as the right material, patience and a desire to get a quality result.

It should be noted that in addition to the ease of manufacture, the plywood boat has many other advantages, such as:

• light weight, which is very important, because before lowering the boat into the water, you have to go some distance. In a lightweight version, this product weighs 10-15 kg, so that it can be easily carried by two adults. True, if the boat is made using frame technology, the weight increases, however, it is still not critical for transferring over short distances;
• depending on the type of project, the capacity of the floating facility is up to 5 people, which is quite enough for a small family;
• subject to manufacturing technology, the structure is strong and durable;
• for the manufacture of a floating craft you will not need large financial costs, since the price of all materials is quite affordable.

Therefore, if you have free time and a desire to build a boat, there is no reason to give up this idea.

Tools and materials

The main characteristics of the future boat, such as strength and durability, depend on the plywood from which it is made. Therefore, its choice must be approached very responsibly.

Ordinary plywood of the FK brand, which is used for the manufacture of furniture, is not suitable for these purposes. Therefore, it is best to use sheets of the following brands:

In addition to the type of plywood brand, when choosing, you should also pay attention to its quality:

• there should be no gaps at the ends of the slabs;
• the surface must be free of knots and other defects.

Note!
Do not use plywood that is too thick, as the sheets must be flexible.
Therefore, the optimum thickness is 5–6 mm.

In addition to plywood, you will also need some other materials:

• boards and bars - must be dry and of high quality;
• fiberglass - it is more convenient to purchase in a roll and then cut into pieces of the desired size;
• yacht varnish or waterproof paint.

As for the tools, the set is quite simple:

• jigsaw;
• grinder;
• plane;
• hammer;
• clamps;
• tape measure and pencil;
• putty knife.

Boat making

Blueprints

Before starting work, you need to prepare drawings of how to build a boat with your own hands from plywood. I must say that there are a large number of all kinds of projects on the Internet. Some of them are also available on our portal.

However, before choosing the optimal project, you should decide on the basic requirements for the swimming facility, such as:

• the size and capacity of the boat;
• product appearance;
• the complexity of the design - is selected depending on the level of your skill. If you are doing this kind of work for the first time, it is better to take a simpler project.

Having decided on these requirements, you can consider existing boat projects for self-construction from plywood, and choose the most suitable one. If necessary, they can be slightly adjusted according to individual wishes.

Sawing out parts

So, we figured out the choice of the project, now we are building a boat from plywood with our own hands. As an example, consider how the most simple punt is made from one.

Work should start by marking and cutting out parts.

This process is carried out as follows:

1. first of all, you need to mark the line of the cheekbone and transom (on the diagram A, B, C);
2. further along the outlined line, a part of the sheet is cut off with a jigsaw;
3. then the resulting workpiece should be applied to the opposite side and outlined with a pencil. Thus, it will serve as a template and ensure the symmetry of the boat. For convenience, the workpiece can be attached to the main sheet with clamps;
4. further along the outlined line, the second part of the sheet is cut off;

Probably every fishing lover has thought at least once about how to make a homemade boat. This is not an easy matter, but it is still possible to make such a craft.

And you don't have to be an engineer, all that is required of you is a few hours of free time. And you will learn about how homemade boats are made from plywood from our today's article.

Manufacturing difficulties

Is it really difficult to make such a design with a minimal set of tools? As practice shows, even with such equipment, a homemade inflatable boat (or plywood) is made easily in 3-4 hours. Due to the fact that it takes a minimum of time to complete all these works, you can make a boat even in the open air. Well, in case of a change in the weather, you can always cover it with a tarpaulin or a piece of plastic wrap.

What are good

First, plywood is lightweight, durable and warm enough. It is almost impossible to kill such a boat, and it does not weigh too much. Secondly, unlike rubber analogs, the space in a plywood boat is enough for several people (while inside, between the seats, you can fit all the necessary fishing tackle). In store options, free space is sorely lacking.

Thirdly, being in a wooden boat does not feel any discomfort at all.

Preparation of materials

The main material from which homemade boats are made is plywood. There are no difficulties in finding it on the market. Plywood is perhaps the most accessible and cheapest material for such works. And it is very convenient to work with her.

Let's get down to business

First of all, I would like to note that any work related to the independent production of any tool (whether it be a tractor or something else, it does not matter) should be carried out clearly according to a given scheme. In this case, you should have drawings of homemade boats in your hands. In some cases, drawings can be replaced by a sketch drawing.

So, how it is done To assemble the case, you will need to prepare dry boards with a thickness of 2.5 centimeters and a 6-millimeter sheet of plywood. The stern and side boards must be 30.5 centimeters wide. This is the most optimal size for a fishing boat. All other elements that are inside the structure (seats and spacers) are made of boards 2.5 centimeters wide. In this case, the length of these parts is 86.4 centimeters. It should be borne in mind that the dimensions of all these elements must be exactly maintained, since they are all attached to the boat hull only with self-tapping screws.

The manufacture of all parts and elements of this design does not cause any difficulties and difficulties at all. This is due to their simple geometric shape.

In the course of work, pay special attention to the fitting of the abutting surfaces and the fringe of the boat. All abutting edges must be carefully fitted and have minimum gaps along the entire length. Either tinned or galvanized self-tapping screws are used as fasteners. As for the dimensions of these fasteners, depending on the place of application, they can be as follows:

The bottom of the boat is made of a 6 mm thick plywood sheet. But, since this part of the boat will be constantly exposed to water, to make the boat waterproof, additionally treat the hull and bottom joints with VIAM-B / 3 type glue and fasten with screws along the entire perimeter. If there is no such agent ("VIAM-B / 3"), oil paint is quite suitable as an alternative. Although it does not have good adhesive properties and characteristics, it gives a durable and waterproof coating. It is worth noting that the distance between the screws should be about 4 centimeters. The outer seams should be carefully glued with cloth or percale using AK-20. In order not to collapse the bottom of the boat, a rack grate is installed between the spacers (the cross section of the rails is 5x2 centimeters).

The resulting liquid should be diluted with clean linseed oil. In this case, the calculation is made so that the boat can be painted 2-3 more times. According to its properties, liquid paint is better, it spreads more easily, and therefore gives a more durable and even coating. When applying this product to the boat, use wide, soft brushes.

Some enthusiasts use nitro paints based on their high quality finish. However, we do not recommend using them for such boats, since they do not provide the necessary durability to the wood (accordingly, the structure becomes less and less durable and unusable every year).

Important points

If home-made motor boats are made, then an additional drawing of special mounts for an electric or gasoline engine is made. However, a simpler and cheaper option would be to use regular oars. They are often made from 35mm birch planks. In this case, a spindle with a handle is installed at the end of the spindle, and brass linings are applied to the edge of the blade. Next, the paddle is primed and painted.

And finally, some statistics. As practice shows, the average service life of plywood boats is about 15-20 years. Neither plastic nor even rubber competitors can boast of such vitality.

Homemade plywood boat (master class, photo, step by step)

So he got around to the realization of an old dream, he began to build a boat. For the first time I chose an easy project, so to speak, for training. I went to the production of similar boats in Cherepovets and there I spied on something and bought the missing materials, for which I would like to thank the owner of the shipyard.

This is how the boat should look like:

Today I cut the plywood sheets and proceeded to the most important and difficult process in my opinion - it is the burr and gluing of the plywood sheets. Because the length of the boat exceeds the length of standard plywood sheets, then they have to be spliced, for this there are many ways, but I chose the most technically difficult, but also more aesthetic option of gluing "mustache".

We mark up.

We process plywood sheets first with a planer, and then with a grinder.

This is how it looks during processing.

This is how the sheets should fit and stick together.

After fitting the parts, I glued them together and placed them under the press.

So far, all the preparatory work on the boat, after the sheets are glued together, I will start marking and cutting out the parts.

At first, I worked on the "mustache" connection on scraps of plywood and it was scary to look at it, but the experience came when working on the "clean" version :) I hope to continue to master everything.

That's about the boat.

Basic data:

Length overall ................ 2.64 m
Breadth overall ............. 1.28 m
Board height .......................... 0,38 m
Body weight ........................ 30 kg
Loading capacity .................. 180 kg
Crew ................................... 2 people.
Allowable power p / motor ... 2.5 hp

Today was a day of fruitful work and great progress :)

He pulled out the sheets from under the press and removed the strips between which they were clamped. The joint turned out to be smooth and very strong (later they tried to break the cuttings from the bottom, they burst not at the joint of the sheets). Thus, we obtained blanks of the required length for the manufacture of the boat.

I start the marking with filling the center line, then all sizes will go from it.

Here I drew the bottom of the boat, it seemed to work out beautifully:

I start to cut. It is advisable to take a jigsaw with high revolutions, use the saws for a curly cut of plywood so as not to tear the edges of the sheets.

We carry out strictly according to the markup :)

Half of the bottom is ready.

But the bottom is entirely :)

We mark one side, then put two blanks on top of each other and fasten with clamps, after which we cut out both sides at once.

I mark and cut out the transom.

At the joints of the plywood sheets, we remove the chamfer with a grinder and proceed to sewing the boat with copper wire clips.

We are working from stern to bow.

In such a case, you cannot do without an assistant.

I also try hard to sew everything beautifully :)

These are the seams.

Now the boat is ready :)

Fitting for yourself :)

And upside down.

Today I really moved to the final stage of project completion :)
The first step was to stretch all the braces harder. I checked the geometry of the boat. Then he planted the staples at the inner joints of the boards with a chisel. After all this, I cut out temporary spacers and fixed them in the places where the frames were installed.

While doing these things in the new room, I constantly felt the eyes on me. By the way, here is the view of the straightened boat from the stern.

For a more even formation of the seams, I decided to fill the lines with masking tape, it seemed to work out beautifully.

I decided to glue it in the evening, but for now I drew out the frame templates and started assembling them.

Here are the finished frames, assembled with epoxy glue and self-tapping screws.

Finally, I started gluing the internal seams, I didn't think it was such a painstaking job :) For the first time, everything seemed to work out great. The resin has normally impregnated the fiberglass, there are no bubbles anywhere.

This is how the seam turns out, even and transparent. The photo shows that the tree structure is visible through three layers of glass tape, so everything is normal.

Here's what was done last time: the frames were fitted and the fenders were screwed on.

Today I installed the frames in place and fixed them with glue and self-tapping screws, cut out the reinforcing pads on the transom.

After that, he turned the boat over, removed all the paper clips from the wire and proceeded to round off the seam joints.

And when everything was prepared, I proceeded to pasting the outer seams.

The seams turned out to be smooth and well saturated, even I like it myself.

Seams on the transom.

Today I finished the work on the formation of the hull of the boat, next time I will install benches and start preparing for painting.

The sides are fastened not only with glue, but also reinforced with three layers of glass tape on each side, this is already fiberglass. Self-tapping screws from frames can be turned out altogether, they will no longer be needed there after gluing. By the way, some do it. Such a boat can be assembled without a single screw in the hull at all.

Today I went to make the boat only in the evening, tk. waited for the glue to set well. I checked the outer seams, I really liked how it was done, it turned out to be strong fiberglass. After that I decided to make planks for the benches. I also cut out and fitted the stem to the bow of the boat.

Here are the slats of the front bench attached.

Here is the middle bench.

I also cut out the slats for the back bench, but it is still too early to install them.

Apparently stretching the pleasure from the process, or maybe out of a desire to do everything efficiently, I make the boat slowly and little by little :)
Today I bought glue, self-tapping screws and high-quality sawn timber without knots. All this was for the installation of the keel and outer stringers. These necessary elements will give greater strength to the bottom, as well as protect the boat during mooring to the shore, protect the paintwork from scratches.

I cut out the slats, sanded them and installed them in place with glue and self-tapping screws.

I also installed a stem and a bow eyebolt today for tying a rope or anchor rope.

For today work had to be stopped, tk. the whole thing must be firmly seized, for this I applied additional weights.

By the way, the benches have already been cut out, but they will be installed after painting the boat from the inside.