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New doors are installed, the trash is swept away, and the idealistic picture of fresh renovation is only broken by the slopes for the entrance doors. Not always the companies that install doors undertake to seal the slopes - in this case, the pleasure of finishing the repair falls to you!

Do-it-yourself front door slopes - what to make from?

If from the outside the doors look like a complete composition with platbands, then inside the apartment the view is far from ideal: gray concrete, polyurethane foam, bricks and fastenings. All this disgrace will help hide the internal slopes front door- a section of the wall bordering the entrance at the end. Fortunately, this process can be performed according to several scenarios and you just have to choose which one will be most understandable and easy to implement for you.

People try to install slopes on the front door for two understandable reasons: to give a finished look and, more importantly, to cover the fastenings of the door frame, on which its burglary resistance depends. There are several ways to form slopes: covering with finishing material on a pre-prepared frame, sealing with mortar and plastering, gluing finishing materials. Finishing materials can be very different: the usual drywall, laminate, wooden slats, cellulose panels and much more.

Sealing the slopes of the front door with cement or putty mortar is the most effective in terms of sound insulation and insulation.

In addition, this option is the most acceptable in terms of protection. door design– a burglar will have to make a lot of noise to find fasteners under a layer of cement. Mortar finishing itself has no special external attractiveness, however, decorative elements can be mounted on the mortar layer Decoration Materials, achieving any effect, or apply textured paint.

The simplest and quick way– installation of finishing material on a frame made of metal profile or wooden blocks. In addition to simplicity, it is also economical, especially in cases when sealing slopes requires too much mortar. This option allows even a person far from construction to achieve a perfectly flat surface. A frame slope is the only solution in cases where you want to install lighting and switches directly in the doorway. Don’t forget about the possibility of hiding “traces” of communications – wires and cables – in the frame.

Installation of entrance door slopes - preparatory stage

Whatever finishing method you choose, preparatory work will be the same. First you need to protect the door leaf and frame with masking tape, or better yet, cover the entire surface with film. And only then proceed to leveling the base - if individual areas protrude too much, they need to be trimmed down, and also get rid of all loose materials that are held too loosely.

Using a broom or brush with fairly coarse bristles, sweep away dust from all cracks and cracks, thoroughly sweep every centimeter of the base, especially if you decide to finish with mortar - the adhesion strength of the materials depends on this. Next, the surface is primed with deep penetration compounds. However, foam concrete or similar loose material should be primed with a regular surface primer.

At this stage, you can lay the electrical wiring under the switch or provide a through hole for the cable - for this purpose, you can fix it at the very bottom of the baseboard aluminum tube slightly larger in diameter than the diameter of the cable through which it can subsequently be laid. If you plan to make do with forming a frame, then you will have to tinker with the wire after it is created.

How to seal the slopes of the front door - plaster

When the gypsum composition under the beacons has hardened, begin to knead cement-sand mortar in a standard proportion of 1 to 4. Sand for the solution should be well sifted, without debris and lumps, cement - grade M400. The components must be mixed with a construction mixer or a drill with a special attachment at low speeds. The consistency of the finished solution should be at the level of the thickness of the curd mass. If you know how to work with the solution quickly, you can add a portion of gypsum.

A wide spatula and trowel are the main tools for a master plasterer, without which he cannot level the surface. After slightly moistening the base with water to increase the adhesion of the materials, apply the solution to the slope and level it along the beacons using a spatula. After a day, you can apply two layers of putty - the main and finishing. The last layer is sanded with an abrasive mesh. What to do with the slope after this - leave it as is, paint it or cover it with finishing material - it’s up to you, all options are acceptable.

How to make front door slopes on a frame - a quick way

The preparatory stage described at the very beginning is not canceled - although we do not use any solutions, the surface needs to be primed. This will prevent it from falling off in the future. To create the frame you will need metal profiles used to create plasterboard structures, or wooden blocks. Both should fit snugly against the wall, so the surface should be fairly flat.

To strengthen the structure on the main load-bearing elements jumpers are installed, especially at the corners between the sides of the opening and the upper plane. Then the wires and cables are laid. If you use drywall for sheathing, it is enough to secure it around the perimeter using self-tapping screws. To hide the junction of the drywall and the wall, you can fill it with mortar, but it is easier and faster to cover it with platbands. Be sure to install perforated corners at the edges and seal the joints with special tape. All that remains is to putty the surface and level it with a fine grater.

Medium-density MDF boards have better aesthetic and technical qualities. The panels can be secured using either self-tapping screws or small nails if the sheathing is wooden. The fasteners should be distributed along the edges or in other places that you plan to cover with trim and corners. The latter can be attached to liquid nails.

Using the same principle, you can finish the surface of the slopes with laminate or parquet board. It’s a little easier with them - nails can be driven into locks, quality connection it won't hurt. So all fastenings will be reliably hidden from prying eyes, except that the corners will still have to be hidden behind the corners.

Slopes for entrance doors - combination of materials

If you are not a master at leveling surfaces, this method is just right for you. The essence of the method is to attach the finishing materials not to the frame, but to a layer of cement-sand mortar or glue. To do this, the slopes for the entrance doors must already be leveled and covered with a primer. It is also necessary to indicate the level of the slope and provide support for finishing materials. For this purpose, screws or self-tapping screws are screwed into the surface so that their heads form one straight line. Take into account the thickness of the mortar and the thickness of the finishing materials themselves so as not to make a mistake with the overall dimensions of the slope.

Then mix the solution according to the instructions already described above and fill ready-made mixture the entire slope area. To be more reliable, we recommend bringing the cement-sand mortar a little less than to the level of the caps, as evenly as you can manage. Let it harden properly (at least 1 day) and apply the adhesive solution to the surface.

Also apply glue to the reverse side of the finishing material. Having applied the finishing sheets to the slope, lightly press them down so that they rest tightly against the surface and the air between them and the cement layer comes out. Using a level, find out whether you managed to align the sheets evenly, and while the glue is still wet, correct their positions. Then you can attach trims and corners, if any.

Recently, I learned in detail what door slopes are and what they are like after the door has been installed. The fact is that if you order the installation of entrance or interior doors, craftsmen often simply do their job, without worrying about what you will do with the slopes.

And here there are two options: hire a team of finishers and pay them decent money for trivial work, or make the door slopes yourself. I chose the second option, and to be honest, I encountered certain difficulties.

I hope this article will help you avoid my mistakes and do everything efficiently and reliably.

Finishing door slopes

After the installation of the interior doors was completed, and I already wanted to relax, it turned out that there is such a thing as door slopes, and they look very unpleasant after installation. Leaving them in this condition means ruining the entire appearance of the house.

The question arose - how to seal them. Two options immediately came to mind:

• Plaster and then paint.
• Make door slopes from the laminate that was left after the renovation.

Both options are equally practical, but installing laminate flooring requires at least a small sheathing, which is not always possible to install, especially if the opening is already narrow. In this case, plastering door slopes is perfect option, which does not require large financial costs and special skills in construction.

But first things first.

Plaster

Before we move on to describing the process of plastering door slopes, you need to understand why this method is better than others, and why you should give it preference. As you know, everything has pros and cons. Plaster is no exception.

Advantages

1. There is no need to install a sheathing that hides the width of the opening, which is especially important for interior doors.
2. You can seal door slopes yourself, without involving builders and, accordingly, additional costs.
3. Relatively low cost of all necessary materials and tools.
4. The entire process will only take a few hours, even if you have no relevant experience.

Well, now a little about the negative side of such door slopes.

Flaws

1. After plastering, door slopes require an additional layer of paint.
2. The aesthetic component leaves much to be desired.

Honestly, I've been looking for a long time negative sides, but I still haven’t found it, so let’s stop at what we have and move on to the installation process.

We plaster the slopes

Plastering door slopes, like any other repair, requires the preparation of materials and tools, to make this moment easier, we will list everything we may need.

Tool:

• Putty knife.
• Construction level.
• Grout with fine sandpaper.
• Roller or brush for applying primer.
• A screwdriver, if installation is carried out under “beacons”.
• Trowel for initial surface leveling.

Materials:

• Plaster mixture. It is advisable to take a ready-made one so as not to waste time mixing cement and sand yourself.
• “Beacons”, two for each slope is enough.
• Decorative corners matching the color of the room design.
• Antibacterial primer impregnation.

So, let's begin. First of all, it is necessary to thoroughly clean the surface of the slope from possible contaminants: dust, dirt.

Important! An uncleaned surface does not adhere well to mixtures and after a few months the plaster will begin to fall off.

Next, prime the surface using a roller or brush. You shouldn’t skimp on the primer, as they say – you can’t spoil the porridge with oil. Moreover, cold bridges always form near the door, which can lead to the formation of condensation.

The primer should be allowed to dry thoroughly and only then proceed to installing the “beacons”. By the way, if you have skills in plastering work, you can do without them. Beacons are installed along the edges of slopes and fixed to the wall using self-tapping screws or dowels.

After this it is prepared plaster mixture, or rather, it is simply diluted with water in the proportions indicated on the package.

The plaster is applied with a spatula to the entire slope from bottom to top. And with the help of a trowel, which is leaned against two beacons, the excess mixture is removed.

The leveled layer of plaster is left until completely dry, and only after that the surface is leveled with fine sandpaper.

Now all that remains is to make the decorative covering and install the corners. At this point the installation can be considered complete.

Laminate

Making door slopes using laminate is somewhat more difficult than simply plastering. Installation takes place in two stages:

1. Making sheathing.
2. Installation of laminate.

The list of tools is even shorter than when working with plaster.

• Screwdriver.
• Hammer.
• Glue for fixing decorative corners.

Materials:

• Laminate.
• Dowels.
• Wooden block.
• Decorative corner.
• Self-tapping screws for wood or drywall.

Advice! if the width of the slope does not exceed 20 cm, then the laminate can be installed along the length. If the panel is narrower in width than the slope, then installation will have to be done horizontally from small segments.

Manufacturing of sheathing

Best suited for these purposes wooden beam, since it is thinner than a metal profile and the opening will not lose much in size. The timber must be treated with impregnations in the same way as the wall itself. This will protect the wood from rotting and significantly extend the life of the finish.

The beam is attached to the wall with dowels at intervals of approximately 50 cm; there should be two such guides in total, one on each side of the slope, but if the opening is very wide, then it may be necessary to install a third beam in the middle.

Once the sheathing is ready, you can move on to the laminate.

Laminate installation

Installation of laminate door slopes starts from the bottom up. The first segment is installed to the floor with a minimum gap of 2-3 mm, since the laminate does not have temperature deformation, this is quite enough. Further, the whole process is no different from installation on the floor. The segments are connected to each other into a lock and snap into place.

The segments are attached to the sheathing with self-tapping screws at the very edge; subsequently the caps are closed with decorative corners.

Advice! Before attaching the laminate to the slope, it is advisable to pre-drill holes for the screws, since the edge of the laminate may crack or flatten.

After all the panels are secured, you can install the corners. The easiest way is to attach them with glue; this is the simplest and most reliable way.

Conclusion

Having figured out the question of how to seal slopes after installing entrance or interior doors, you can safely get to work. Of course, there are many other ways to do this, but the options described in this article are the least expensive and probably the simplest.

The front door forms the first impression of your home, so it must be both reliable, aesthetically attractive, and well-installed. At the same time, the full installation cycle includes stages that are often neglected out of ignorance. These include finishing the slopes of the front door, which is necessary not only for the beauty of the structure, but also for high-quality operation over time.

What it is?

As practice shows, slopes are often confused with platbands, since platbands are their external, decorative part. By themselves, they serve only an aesthetic function. But the slopes are involved in ensuring tightness, sound insulation and thermal insulation, and increase the resistance of the front door to burglary.

By definition, slopes are the internal and external parts of the wall that “surround” door frame. Slopes are also considered to be the left, right and top sides of the doorway in which a door is supposed to be installed, but is not installed. Not all types of doorways have slopes on both sides. Sometimes they may be absent from outside, but from the inside there is in most cases.

The structure of the door slope is quite complex. High-quality slopes- these are not just parts of the wall protruding beyond the frame, they are optimal combination materials, each of which is necessary to perform a separate function. Materials are applied according to the “layer cake” principle.

The first layer is rough. To create it we use:

• Primer. It is applied to the cleaned wall surface as a pre-finishing coating. Primers are necessary to level out the absorbent properties of the surface, as well as for improved “adhesion” the following materials with her.

• Styrofoam. This layer is not required, but is desirable in cases where the wall needs to be insulated. This is true for apartments on the lower floors and private houses.

• Plaster. The primer improves the adhesion of materials to the wall, but does not level the surface. Plastering is necessary to fill irregularities, depressions or cracks in the wall. This process is the most labor-intensive and time-consuming and requires certain skills and abilities.

As an alternative, you can use a material that is easier to use - drywall. This option allows you to quickly prepare the surface for further types of finishing, but it is not suitable in all cases. In the Russian climate, it is more often used for interior decoration or in warm regions with high humidity.

• Reinforcing corners. These thin but strong metal corners are necessary to protect the plaster on the corners of the slopes. The front door is a high-traffic area, and the corners of the opening often get touched, hit, or scratched. Without proper protection, plastered corners will quickly begin to crumble and lose their presentable appearance.

• Putty. With its help, all defects are smoothed out after installing the corners. Putty compounds are applied in an uneven layer, so after they dry, the surfaces of the slopes need to be cleaned. For this purpose, fine-grained sheets of sandpaper or low-power sanders are used. Furniture is also suitable if it reaches hard-to-reach places.

• Re-priming before application decorative covering.

The second layer is finishing, or front. There are no strict rules in choosing finishing options. It depends only on individual preferences and financial capabilities. The only condition that must be met is to choose a finish that is harmoniously combined with the door leaf and wall decoration.

How to decorate the inside of the apartment?

The slopes protrude from both the outside and the inside doors. Accordingly, there are two types of finishing - external and internal. The external one, as a rule, is less variable. The main focus is on design door leaf, and the slopes echo either it or the wall decoration. More often these are practical and concise options that do not attract attention.

Inside an apartment or house, the finishing of slopes becomes part of the interior. It plays a decorative role, so the types of materials and methods of decoration are of great importance.

Finishing facing materials from the inside there are the following types:

• Plastering the surface.
• Gluing finishing materials.
• Frame sheathing.
• Coloring.

For the first type, plaster, primer, water and all the necessary tools are used. This process takes a lot of time, but makes it possible to putty all the unevenness, insulate the structure, and make a layer required thickness. Decor from other materials is often applied on top of the plaster, but in itself it is already considered a finished finish, and therefore refers to the basic techniques in repair.

“Clean” slopes after plastering can be easily painted in any color. suitable color, while they are polished until smooth or, on the contrary, left in relief.

The following materials can be used for decoration:

• Ceramic tiles (tiles). It is distinguished by its rigidity, moisture resistance, hygiene, low price and a wide range of colors, shapes and textures. Ceramic surfaces are easy to maintain, but tiles may crack or chip if mechanical damage, and during the replacement process you will have to work hard so as not to damage neighboring elements.

An undeniable advantage tiles - many design possibilities. The mosaic looks especially original. It can be made from solid tiles small size or from small pieces. Mosaic fragments are obtained artificially from tiles by cutting them into pieces required sizes, and handymen can use for this purpose broken tiles which is considered unsuitable. The result is original and unique, and the cost of materials is minimal.

Any construction adhesive is suitable for gluing tiles. Apply it evenly with a plastic spatula, and the seams are rubbed down after a day with a rubber spatula.

• Porcelain tiles. This material is often confused with ceramic tiles. Indeed, in the manufacture of porcelain stoneware, the same composition of the substance is used as for tiles, but the production technology is very different. As a result, the tile has a colored coating only on top and becomes unsightly when chipped, while porcelain stoneware has a uniform color throughout the entire thickness of the slab and damage to it is less noticeable. Also, its structure is denser, so it is more resistant to damage. In addition to being moisture-resistant, environmentally friendly and durable, it is also frost-resistant. In appearance, this material is more noble, but the color spectrum is very limited and its cost is higher than for ceramic tiles.

• Decorative rock. It is truly an interior decoration, although it is not always appropriate and is expensive. The peculiarity of this material is that it can be used to imitate real masonry. He has an attractive appearance, adds zest to the interior, impeccable in terms of performance characteristics. The stone does not chip, is easy to clean, is durable and safe materials. To fix it on the surface of the slopes, construction glue is used, but there are also ways to “cover” the surface with decorative stone.

• Wallpaper. Wallpapering is perhaps the easiest and most budget-friendly way to decorate. It is most convenient to stick wallpaper on slopes with plasterboard trim. The glue will “grab” on the plaster, but the surface will have to be leveled especially carefully so that “bubbles” do not form on the wallpaper.

Considering the large traffic at the entrance to the room, it is better to choose wallpaper that is washable and in dark colors.

The openings are sheathed using the following materials:

• MDF. Panels made from fine particles are very popular in all types of finishing. They are universal for any interior, look aesthetically pleasing and have a number of other advantages: durability, a variety of coatings that imitate different types of wood, ease of installation, improved sound insulation and thermal insulation in the room.

• Chipboard. Finishing chipboard is the easiest way to tidy up part of the doorway if, after installing the door, it looks bad. In this case, you won’t even need a primer or putty. It is enough to sheathe the surface with even sheets that match the tone and pattern of the door leaf.

• Laminate. Laminate siding is widely used for two reasons: it is inexpensive and looks much more solid than non-laminated materials made from reclaimed wood. The basis of the coating is fiberboard or chipboard (therefore, “sewing up the slopes with chipboard” means the same as laminate), and on top it is decorated with a polymer film. The most common option is stylization to look like precious wood, but there are also other shades in a dark and light palette. It has a number of advantages inherent in all wood-based materials, as well as certain disadvantages. Thus, among the most common disadvantages are hydrophobia (the material can delaminate and swell from water) and average wear resistance.

• Extras. Sheathing internal slopes from the addition - this is more of a necessity than a decorative element. Extensions are narrow plates made of different materials, which are necessary for masking slopes whose width is more than 7 cm. As a rule, they are used when the door and slopes must be sheathed in the same style and with the same materials.

• Drywall. The choice of drywall is relevant when you need a high-quality and budget-friendly result that is convenient to work with your own hands. In addition, drywall perfectly levels the surface for decorative finishing in the future and enhances the insulating properties of the entrance door.

• Plastic. No matter how versatile MDF, laminate and similar materials are, plastic door requires decoration of the adjacent space with PVC-based materials. The use of sandwich panels is especially popular. They have variable widths - from 5 to 150 cm, which allows you to cover each side of the slope with just one piece.

The performance characteristics of the product are also excellent: aesthetic appearance that lasts for a long time, biostability, resistance to humidity and temperature changes, the presence of air sections inside the panels that ensure the preservation of heat in the house, hygiene.

Modern technologies plastic manufacturers guarantee it environmental safety and non-toxic.

• Siding. The characteristics of siding panels are very diverse, because they are made from various materials– from aluminum to plastic. Aluminum, copper, wood, basement and vinyl siding are used for finishing slopes.

The best option– vinyl. It is a monolithic PVC panel, main feature which is flexibility. It can be given absolutely any shape, ideally adjusted to corners without joints or gaps. Vinyl is not subject to rotting and burning processes, is not afraid of water, does not crack due to temperature changes, is easily cleaned of dirt, and is not of interest to fungi and insects. The front side of the panels can be plain, with a pattern, stylized as stone, wood or brick.

Frame cladding involves the preliminary installation of a metal (aluminum) or wooden profile around the perimeter of the doorway, to which any material is subsequently attached using self-tapping screws. This method is considered the most labor-intensive, since before attaching the profile it is necessary to prime and level the slopes with cement mortar.

Some types of materials (plaster, chipboard, MDF and drywall without decorative coating) require painting to harmonious combination with indoor interior.

For these purposes the following are used:

• Acrylic paints. They are convenient to add to the composition for plastering the surface. This simultaneously reduces the number of finishing steps, since surface leveling and painting occur simultaneously, and makes damage less noticeable, since the entire layer of plaster is painted over;
• Water-based. Such paints can be added to the plaster or painted on the wall over the leveling layer. Using acrylic and paints on water based, it is important to remember that they must be primed from above, otherwise the surface will get dirty. You can dilute the primer yourself using PVA and water in a ratio of 1:5;
• Latex based paints can also be used in two ways, but their advantage is that a final primer is not needed. Latex compounds non-hydrophobic and easy to clean;
• Alkyd and oil. These compounds are indispensable in conditions high humidity. They are more wear-resistant and dense, but they are more difficult to work with due to their thick consistency and toxic odor.

How to insulate?

Thermal insulation and sound insulation are the functions of the front door, which partly depend on the type of finishing of the slopes. To insulate a room, you don’t have to run to the store to buy a heater. First you need to take care of maximum tightness, and you should start with the front door. This will not only increase the level of comfort in the house, but will also help in the future to save money on utility bills.

Insulation of slopes from the inside is carried out step by step:

• Selection of materials. The leading positions are occupied by sandwich panels, plasterboard, polystyrene foam, mineral wool, and polystyrene. Experts recommend choosing polystyrene, which is superior to other materials in many respects. At a relatively low cost, it is capable of thermoforming and vacuum forming, is resistant to moisture and chemical treatment, does not smell, is environmentally friendly, can be different types processing. If there is no polystyrene, it can be replaced with a mineral slab (wool).

• Preparatory work. They include all measures to clean the work surface. It is necessary to cut off the polyurethane foam, remove the old coating, if any, and eliminate irregularities as much as possible. After removal old plaster the surface must be dusted with a vacuum cleaner and a damp sponge.

• Primer and putty. It is necessary to prime the surface of the slopes. This will ensure high-quality adhesion of subsequent layers to the wall, and also minimize the likelihood of fungi and bacteria appearing on the wall. Any deep soil will be suitable for this purpose. After applying it, the surface should be allowed to dry for 3-4 hours. Repeated application of primer to plaster is acceptable.

It is not necessary to putty the slopes, but it is advisable, especially if the surface has many defects, chips and depressions. All these minor gaps greatly affect the insulation properties of the front door.

• Installation of insulation. At this stage it is the turn of the insulating material. Polystyrene boards and mineral wool glued with specialized adhesives. The glue is applied to the slab with a spatula, then it is applied to the surface of the slope and adjusted to the level. The drying time for the glue is at least 24 hours. After this, the plates are secured with dowels.

• Fastening the insulation. Ideally, polystyrene or mineral boards should be covered plastic mesh for internal finishing works. This will protect against cracks and unevenness in the future. The glue is applied to the mesh in layers, each layer dries to hardness in 6-12 hours.

• Leveling the surface. Here again you will need putty. You can level the surface with up to 2-3 layers. Then you need to let it dry for the time indicated in the instructions on the container, and treat it with fine-grained sandpaper. The grain number on the sandpaper package is at least 100.

• Final finishing. Includes the application of a colorless primer followed by painting or any other method of decoration.

It is important to consider that finishing materials have not only their own characteristics that affect thermal insulation, but also their weight. It is necessary to calculate in advance whether the insulated slope, for example, will withstand the weight of porcelain stoneware or lining, or whether it is worth giving preference to paint, plastic, or wallpaper.

How to make a slope on the front door from MDF panels with your own hands, watch the next video.

Colors

Slopes are a small detail that can either support the style in the interior or completely break out of it. Inappropriate color finishing will become an element that violates the integrity of the overall picture, so it is important to choose the right color in accordance with the design of the door and the decoration of the walls, floor and ceiling in the room.

There are at least a dozen options for how to make slopes on interior doors. Here are just some of the possible options:

1. Installation of drywall sheets.
2. Plastering followed by applying putty.
3. Application of decorative plaster.
4. Overlay panels, for example MDF.
5. Wood finishing.
6. Laminate lining.
7. Installation of chipboard panels.
8. Installation of PVC panels.
9. Plastic finish.
10. Finishing slopes with artificial stone.
11. Installation of tiles.

The most popular options at the moment are:

• installation of overhead panels;
• plastic finishing;
• installation of drywall sheets.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages. The pros and cons of these slopes for interior doors are shown in the table below:

When you make the slopes for interior doors yourself, you should choose the option that is the most realistic in execution. Below will be held step by step guide to perform slopes using the above options.

Sequence of work using putty

The scope of work depends on the curvature of the slopes. At the beginning it is plastered with cement or starting gypsum mixture, and then putty with finishing putty.

Between different layers A primer is required - it prevents the next layer from peeling off.

When making slopes on doors with plaster or putty, it is important to protect the adjacent walls, flooring and the doors themselves are from the putty mixture. To do this, they must be covered with masking tape, stretch film or other protective materials.

The sequence of work performed is as follows:

1. The surface is cleaned of all existing contaminants, including dust. Finishing the slopes of interior doors necessarily includes priming, so the cleaned surface is primed.
2. The mixture for leveling is prepared in a clean bucket. It can serve as cement mixture(if the slope is very crooked) or starting gypsum. When kneading, pay attention to the manufacturer's recommendations regarding how and in what proportions to knead the mixture.
3. Using a trowel, a rule and a spatula, apply and level the mixture onto the slope. Wait until it dries completely, even if it takes a few days.
4. This layer is also primed. After this, finishing gypsum putty is applied to it.
5. After the finishing mixture has completely dried, the slope must be sanded using sandpaper numbered from 150 to 240.

In this condition, the hand-made door jamb is ready for painting or wallpapering.

How to make slopes for interior doors with your own hands from plastic

When choosing plastic for work, you can stop only at the classic white version. Depending on the color of the room, you can choose colored plastic panels. Moreover, some plastic panels are patterned like wood, leather or other materials. It looks stylish, fashionable and modern, and in installation such panels do not differ from ordinary ones.

To install plastic slopes on doors, you must follow the following sequence of actions:

1. The surface of the future slope is cleaned of all dirt and dust.
2. Profile guides in the form of planks are installed on the slope.
3. The required size of the parts is measured; for this it is best to use a tape measure.
4. The plastic is cut according to the selected size. If possible, when making door slopes with your own hands, it is better to use a jigsaw. If this is not possible, a hacksaw will do.
5. First, the side parts are secured, and then the upper slope is attached.
6. The plastic joints at the top are treated with a sealant, for example, silicone, matched to the color of the plastic. Plugs in the form of corners are placed on the outer sections.

After completing all work, the plastic panels should be washed with a damp cloth, even if they did not get dirty during work. The finished slope will look clean and tidy.

How to cover a slope with overlay panels

You can make a slope for interior doors using overlay panels laid by yourself. Such panels can be MDF panels, PVC panels and others. Preparation of slopes should be carried out in the same way as with other types of cladding - the surface is cleaned of all dust and dirt. It should be noted that overlay panels are suitable not only for narrow, but also for wide slopes. This makes them universal. Overlay panels can be installed on interior slopes without doors.

The order of work is as follows:

1. The condition of the slope is determined to select the type of fastening. With smooth slopes, the panels are fastened with liquid nails. If the slope is plastered, concrete or brick, the panels are attached to the frame. In this case, the door slope is attached to metal structure. Wooden blocks can also serve as a frame.
2. The selected frame type is set.
3. Parts of the required size are cut from the panels.
4. The panels are attached to the frame.
5. The corners of the panels are covered with platbands.
6. At the joints of the panels, the seams are treated with silicone sealant.

Slope using drywall

Making door slopes using drywall is a cheap and simple option that does not require any special skill. The surface of the slope immediately becomes smooth and suitable for further processing. can be installed on slopes doorways, in which there will be no doors. In this way you can make both side and top slopes.

Interior slopes without doors, made in the shape of an arch, cannot be finished with plasterboard - it only provides a perfectly flat plane that cannot be bent.

How to do the job using drywall sheets:

1. There are several ways to attach drywall. One of the simplest is gluing drywall to fugenfüller putty mixture. First you need to measure the slope, it required dimensions. Drywall sheets are cut to fit the finished slope.
2. Before gluing, it is necessary to attach the cut sheet to the slope to ensure that it is the correct size.
3. You should work quickly with the fugenfüller, since this putty mixture dries very quickly. It cannot be kneaded using a mixer; kneading by hand will do.
4. Several Fugenfüller spatulas are applied to the prepared piece of drywall, the drywall is applied to the slope and leveled using a square and level.
5. After drying with Fugenfüller, the drywall can either be painted immediately or covered with wallpaper.

As can be seen from the information described in this article, when choosing how to finish the slopes of interior doors, you have the opportunity to choose a wide variety of different variants. All these options are presented in different price categories, so choosing the one you want won’t be difficult. This article described the advantages and disadvantages, as well as the sequence of work for the most popular types of finishing the slopes of interior doors, such as:

• plaster followed by applying putty;
• installation of overhead panels;
• plastic finishing;
• installation of plasterboard sheets on fugenfüller.

When choosing a method, consider not only the desired result, but also the availability of the necessary tools and materials to perform a particular type of work and the practical skills of the person who will do the work (if it is not possible to hire builders to carry out the work professionally).

Wide slopes of interior doors - video

DIY slope near the door - video