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For successful keeping and breeding of rabbits, it is very important to choose the right cage for them, because the well-being of the animals and their ability to reproduce directly depend on its structure and type of material. Good, warm and comfortable housing is the key to good health for your pet and good set weight. There are two options - buy a ready-made cage in a specialized store or make it yourself. It would seem that the first option is easier and simpler, but it is preferable to do it yourself, taking into account all the necessary dimensions, depending on the expected number of individuals and the breed of pets. Having decided to breed rabbits, it is important to decide on the place where their cage will be located.

First of all, you need to take care of protecting your pets from cold wind and sunlight in the summer. Ideally, it is better to make the roof removable, this will facilitate the process of disinfecting the cage. So, how to make cages for rabbits with your own hands: all dimensions and drawings are presented below.

Types of cages for keeping rabbits

The main types of cages, mainly used by rabbit breeders in practice, are presented in the list below:

• a cage with an enclosure for walking a rabbit;
• standard cells with and without queen cell;
• a cell built according to the method of I. N. Mikhailov;
• cell according to the method of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Each cell has a standard base - walls, floor, ceiling and frame, door. Let's take a closer look at cell types.

An example of a drawing of a two-section cage for rabbits can be seen in the photo below.

Regular cell (with or without queen cell)

A standard cage, usually on high legs, with a mesh floor and tray, with two compartments separated by a partition with the ability to move from compartment to compartment. They provide a nest for the female rabbit and a place for feeding. The entrance to the cage is closed with doors. The high legs of the structure allow maximum protection of animals from moisture and drafts; they are usually made about half a meter. The mesh floor will allow the waste products of the rabbits not to linger in the cage; with the help of a tray, everything can be easily removed and the animals will be clean. Such cells can be found very often; they require minimum costs and a small amount of materials. Often designs with a mesh floor are used when breeding, since the paws of this breed of animal are resistant to damage.

Cage with aviary for walking rabbits

It is an ordinary cage (discussed above) made of a wooden frame, often on legs, with an enclosure attached to such a cage for walking.
Considering the mobility of pets and their love for an active lifestyle, having a place to walk has an extremely positive effect on the health of rabbits and improves their reproductive qualities. During the summer months, it allows the animals to enjoy fresh grass and soak up the morning sun. It is necessary to take into account all the details so that pets cannot escape from the enclosure and cats or mice do not get into them.

Do-it-yourself cages for rabbits: drawings according to Zolotukhin

The main difference between such a cage and other designs is the following: it does not contain a queen cell for the rabbit. It is assumed that the best option it will be if she chooses for herself appropriate place. The feeder and sippy cup are located above front door. These cages do not have a tray or a mesh floor; instead, only the back side of the structure is covered with mesh.

A small metal mesh is used. Analyzing the behavior of rabbits, you can notice that they relieve themselves at the back of their homes. These cages are built using slate or planks. To make the frame and partitions, boards up to two centimeters thick are used. The floor and roof are made of slate; if this is not available, it is made of the same boards as the cage frame. Wooden surfaces upholstered with thin sheet metal.

Let's look at the construction of such a cell step by step:

The first floor of the structure should be located at a distance of fifty centimeters from the ground to protect rabbits from moisture and cold. The cage frame itself is made using four two-meter beams; the width of the frame should be finished form two meters, depth - eighty centimeters. Thus, three floors are built.

1. The floor of each floor must be inclined at a slope of five centimeters towards the back of the cage to allow animal feces to drain off. Each floor is divided into two halves wooden slats, the distance between them should be about thirty centimeters, in the future there will be a hay field here. The walls of the structure are made of wooden planks. Each floor is half covered with boards or slate, the resulting gap is closed with a fine mesh.
2. The back wall must be made of moisture-resistant material; polycarbonate is a good choice; it can withstand fairly high humidity without deteriorating or rotting. The grid of the upper floor ends and a polycarbonate sheet is attached to it at an angle.
3. It is convenient to make caged doors that are common to all floors; metal hooks are attached to the doors.
4. Additionally, each floor can be equipped with side doors for fattening; bolts must be attached to each door.

Considering that rabbits love to chew everything and do it well, for protection everyone internal corner upholstered in metal.

The roof of the cage is made in such a way that it protrudes forward from the common part of the frame by at least five centimeters on all sides, in order to prevent rainwater from entering the room with the pets.

Cages for rabbits using the Mikhailov method

Rabbit cages using the Mikhailov method are the most complex and expensive, but at the same time the most convenient to use. They provide unified system waste from the vital activity of rabbits, heating of the queen cell with baby rabbits and a female rabbit, separate shelves for animals and a ventilation system. Their main feature is their sectionality - they include from two to four separate sections with a single compartment for collecting rabbit waste.

The first cages of this type were designed for two adult animals, improved designs are designed for several teenage rabbits or two rabbits expecting offspring. There are two-tier and single-tier cages. The construction of a cage of this type is tied to the cardinal directions; for protection from cold winds, the back wall is made blank and placed to the north. Apart from the back, the other three are made of mesh material. The mechanism for heating the queen cell must be turned on, and ventilation of the premises is provided.

The floors of the cage using the Mikhailov method are made of slats laid diagonally. To simplify the design, such cells are conventionally divided into three parts:

• the upper one, consisting of one or two tiers;
• the lower part is a sealed part for collecting manure;
• stand-up

Thanks to the stand, the entire structure is fixed to the ground; without it, the cage can tip over. The total height of the legs is 140 cm; additional beams are installed at a distance of 40 cm from the ground for maximum strong fixation. Feeders and drinking bowls for rabbits are located inside the building, queen cells are in the center. To make such a design with your own hands, you must have the correct drawing with exact dimensions. The dimensions of the cage made using this method are relatively small; for two adult individuals, the total area of ​​the structure will be 1.4 square meters. The height of the building is 210 cm, the width of the sections is 80 cm, the height is 70 cm. The angle of inclination of the lower section is 45 degrees. The sippy cup in the cage can be installed in any size, depending on the size of the section in which the pet lives. Let's consider the principle of constructing such a cage for four adult rabbits. The animal feeder is 15 cm long, 12 cm wide, and 30 cm high.

So, in order to make this design with your own hands at home, you must have:

• bars;
• slats;
• boards;
• metal mesh;
• automatic drinking bowls for pets;
• queen cell heater;
• box for animal feces;
• staples;
• self-tapping screws;
• stapler;
• screwdriver;
• drill;
• nails of different sizes and a hammer;
• sheet iron;
• material for protecting internal corners;
• slateruberoid.

Let's look at the construction of such a cage step by step. For example for detailed description construction, let's take a single-tier cage with three compartments. Having understood the principle of the method, it will not be difficult at all to complete the upper floors. We assemble the cage frame in accordance with the required dimensions and drawings.

1. We start building the frame from the frame, then we build the cage itself and lay the floor in it diagonally with slats. Separately, we prepare the doors for the cage and install them, not forgetting the latches.
2. We install automatic drinking bowls for animals inside the living quarters, and hang pre-prepared drinking bowls outside (also made in accordance with the dimensions of the drawings).
3. We separate the queen cell for the female rabbit and the young rabbits with a partition in which there is supposed to be a door for exit. Do not forget that the queen cell should be as dark as possible for the comfort of newborn rabbits.
4. We make a roof, strengthen the slate with self-tapping screws.
5. We make a sloped surface for manure in the shape of a rectangular funnel. A container is installed under the funnel to collect waste and waste products of rabbits.

An important point in such cages is that little rabbits are not separated from their mother. They are constantly with her in a heated queen cell and have the opportunity to receive mother’s milk for as long as possible, which significantly increases the animals’ immunity.

Mikhailov's method is based, first of all, on the fact that rabbits do not have direct contact with humans; for them this is a very serious stress. The idea of ​​such an automatic house, where pets have round-the-clock access to a feeder and water bowl, has achieved incredible results. Rabbits living in such cages practically do not get sick, reproduce well and gain weight very quickly. There are even four-month-old individuals weighing up to six kilograms.

Video. DIY rabbit cage

Reading time ≈ 11 minutes

One of the important components of successfully keeping rabbits is providing the animals with suitable housing - cages. Cages are very convenient for breeding animals - they are the easiest place to feed, care for, house and, if necessary, treat the animals. At the same time, do not rush to buy industrial copies - you can make the cages yourself. We will look at how to build cages for rabbits with our own hands, as well as a series of photos of original building ideas.

Two-story cage for rabbits.

Features and Requirements

In fact, a cage is a box-like structure with opening front doors. Consists of a frame (sometimes with high legs) closed by walls, a roof and a floor. Inside there are compartments for food and rest, separated by a partition with a manhole. In the aft compartment there is a feeder and.

Size and design features cells depend on the age, breed, sex of the rabbit, and method of keeping. However, the design will be essentially identical for all groups of animals.

A common blueprint for rabbit cages.

When viewed from above, the cell diagram looks like this. The floor of the cage can either be completely mesh or have a mesh insert for removing feces. The floor in the nesting section must be solid, windproof and warm.

Schematic representation of a cell from above.

Another version of cages is also in demand - in which there are sleeping compartments on the sides, and in the center there is an area for feeding and activity. Such blocks are longer (up to 1.2 m), the standard height is about 35 cm.

There are several types of cellular contents:

• in room;
• on the street;
• combined - part of the year indoors, part - outdoors.

• use of high-quality, durable, rough building materials;
• reliability and stability of the structure;
• no more than 3 tiers of cages (installation of a slanting roof for effective drainage of feces);
• presence of a canopy.

Important! In winter, it is imperative to take care of insulating the cells. The boxes must be reliably protected from frost and wind, especially if you plan to breed animals.

Types of cells

As we have already indicated, the design of a house for animals is selected based on many factors. Therefore, below we will briefly consider the main distinctive features blocks for animals with different needs:

House for rabbits and baby rabbits.

In addition to standard cages, there are also options with an aviary. If there is free space, you can install just such blocks. The enclosure is set up either under the structure or near the back wall. At least one of the walls of the enclosure should be mesh, but the option is also popular when the back wall is solid and the rest are made of mesh - as in the photo:

Two-story cage with an aviary.

At large quantities shad will be a convenient design for keeping individuals. It is a frame with 2-3 tiers of cells under a canopy. This whole structure looks like a mini-barn, but it greatly increases the efficiency and ease of care, allows for efficient use of space, and each animal can be provided with a separate block. You can also build a shed yourself.

Shed for rabbits.

Depending on the needs of the animal and your goals appearance The design can be absolutely anything. For example, for males, who are usually kept alone, you can build a very simple one-story block:

A simple one-story cage.

You can also make a frame and divide it into three compartments to house several individuals under one roof.

One-story block with three cells.

If you have enough space and the number of animals is small, you can make bunk (two-story) apartments for animals:

A two-story cage in the form of a house for one individual.

Another option for a two-tier block with a symmetrical, attractive facade:

Please note: In all such designs with an aviary below top tier there is a tray for effective removal bowel movements.

A two-story cage in the shape of a house.

If you wish, you can use the most original ideas and make a cage for rabbits with your own hands like a mansion, as in the photo below. To descend into the walking area, the block must be equipped with a staircase.

Blue cage-teremok.

And here’s another extraordinary design: in order to make good use of the space, there are beds with herbs on the roof of the block.

Cage with seedlings on the roof.

Another example of the design - on the sides of the block there is a feeder and a drinker. There is a nest in the center with holes on both sides. Thanks to the convenient door, babies can be accessed and perform care procedures without any problems.

House with compartments.

In the photo below we see a very original, practical and simple design according to the type of car. The animal house is equipped with a pair of wheels on the back side and a pair of holders on the front. If necessary, the cage can be quickly and without assistance transported to another location. At the same time, the block is equipped with a nest and there is enough space for walking.

Transportable house on wheels.

To make the economic part of the yard look aesthetically pleasing and original, houses for livestock can be built in oriental style Pagoda.

Pagoda style house.

If you need a spacious enclosure for walking young animals, you can make a metal structure, completely mesh with a small shelter.

Spacious enclosure for rabbits.

Before you start building a home for livestock, read these simple recommendations. They will save you a lot of time during the creation process and allow you to avoid some mistakes:

• For year-round outdoor maintenance, it is better to choose thick boards for making walls. If the rabbits are kept partially outside, the sides of the cage can be made of plywood. If rabbits are outside only in the summer, then the walls can be made from durable mesh.
• When kept outdoors, the structure must be placed at a height of at least 0.7 m from the ground. This will protect the animals from cold, precipitation, as well as rats and other animals.
• The floor can be constructed from wooden slats or mesh. The size of the cells should be about 1-1.5 cm so that manure can pass through the holes freely, but the animals do not injure their paws.
• For the roof you can use boards or plywood. And for reliability, put any available roofing material on top. The only thing worth considering is that the metal sheets can get very hot in the sun and overheat the cage, so you will have to install a canopy on top.
• On the front wall you need to install two doors on hooks, one mesh, the other wooden.
• The wooden elements of the house will most likely be chewed, so it is recommended to sheathe the most vulnerable parts of the cage with thin sheets of tin, namely: the edges wooden beams in the frame and doors, manhole, feeder.
• In case of bad weather, removable glazing should be provided. The frame with glass can be attached different ways, for example, on hooks, and in sunny weather, remove.

Idea: the façade and external walls can be upholstered decorative material or paint it to give the house a decorative look.

Cage with supports.

Necessary materials

So, let's consider making a three-tier structure for group keeping of rabbits.

Necessary materials:

• timber with a section of 5*5 cm;
• aluminum plaster corner;
• screws;
• metal connecting corners;
• slats 24*12 mm (for the floor, you can use a metal mesh);
• galvanized sheets.

All fastenings in the cage will look like this.

Required tool:

• construction stapler;
• grinder (hacksaw);
• roulette;
• screwdriver;
• electric drill.

For construction we will use the following drawing. One tier is shown here; 3 of these structures will be required.

Drawing of a cage (one tier).

Manufacturing process

Below is detailed description step-by-step instruction for making a house.

1. First you need to prepare the material for work - cut the timber into the required sections. So, you will need 16 pieces of 1.9 m each (12 pieces need to be sheathed with corners on one side), 24 pieces of 0.35 m each, 18 pieces of 0.8 m each, 12 pieces of 0.45 m each, 6 pieces of 0. 7 m. All prepared sections must be sheathed on one side with a corner using a stapler. These parts will be in direct contact with animals, which means the wood needs to be protected from being chewed.



Preparing the bars.

2. To make the first tier, we assemble the frame. To do this, we connect 2 segments of 1.9 m and 0.35 m with corners. The result is a rectangle.



We fold the frame.

3. Next, on a long section, measure 55 cm from the edges on each side, top and bottom. We make notes. Now we insert a beam 0.35 m long into the middle of the rectangle so that the marking line is closer to the center.



Insert jumpers.

4. This results in the following division:



Caracas in the making.

5. We make a hole for the feeder. To do this, find the middle along the long line and make a mark. WITH opposite side on the block we mark 0.7 m from the right and left ends. We apply 45 cm long bars in a triangle for fitting, mark an angle and cut them with a hacksaw and attach them.



We make a hole for food.

6. Using the same principle, we construct the second part for the first tier. Using bars 80 cm long we connect both parts. The frame of the first tier is ready.



Finished tier frame.

7. For the floor, you can use wooden slats or metal mesh. If you use slats, you must first drill holes in them for screws, otherwise the thin slats may crack. Watch the distance between the slats - it should be about 1-1.2 cm so that the animals do not injure their limbs.



Fastening the slats to the floor.

8. The side parts of the structure, as well as the lintels, are made of plywood. Instead, you can use mesh or boards.
9. For the roof we use galvanized sheets. They should be slightly larger in size than the frame, so that it is possible to make small canopies over the compartments.
10. Using hinges on the front, you need to attach the doors made of mesh and plywood. At this point, one tier is completely finished.
11. At the end of the cage, the wood must be treated with fire. Firstly, it will remove burrs and make the wood smoother. Secondly, roasting will eliminate most microorganisms from the upper layers of the wood. Then the structure must be treated with a disinfectant, for example Brovadez, according to the instructions.

In principle, you can stop there if you do not need to accommodate a large number of living creatures. But if there are a lot of rabbits and not enough space, you can continue and fold the three compartments into a single three-story structure.

To do this, you will need strong beams 2 m long (4 pieces). The compartments must be secured using metal corners. The first compartment should be at least 30 cm above the ground. The distance between compartments should be kept at least 10 cm to accommodate pallets.

Ready design.

Thus, we presented a selection of photos with original design ideas, and also examined the step-by-step production of rabbit cages with our own hands.

Video: step by step construction cages for rabbits.

Experienced rabbit breeders should know how rabbit cages are built with your own hands. Only in this case can you be sure that long-eared pets will not be endangered by low-quality materials or improper manufacturing processes. There are no particularly specific conditions for keeping rabbits; you just have to take into account that their wild counterparts live in ordinary burrows. Since there is nothing complicated about how to build a rabbit cage with your own hands, even novice rabbit farmers can do it.

Cell components and materials used

Any cage intended for rabbits must be equipped in a certain way. It must contain the following parts:

• The frame and supports on which the entire structure rests are made of wooden blocks. To ensure that rabbits kept outside are protected from rodents, cats and dogs, it is worth placing their cage at a height of about 70 cm from the ground.
• Walls made from plywood, boards or mesh. For beauty, you can decorate the walls outside plastic or wooden slats. For ease of cage care façade parts make two doors (one from a mesh, the other from a board).
• Floor most often made from slats or mesh. Some rabbit breeders install a solid floor, only placing a mesh in the back to remove waste through it. There are adherents different materials, who learn from their own experience what is best for animals kept in different conditions.
• The roof is most often made of the same material as the walls, and to protect against environmental conditions when kept outdoors, you can install an additional covering from any roofing material.

When creating cages for rabbits, it is not recommended to use metal. In the heat, the iron becomes hot, which causes discomfort for animals, and in the cold they can easily freeze to such a coating. Even when the most simple cell for rabbits with your own hands, you need to make sure that all parts are smooth and not dangerous for injury. Any defects in the mesh should be eliminated, and the wood should be treated with sandpaper.

Various designs

Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, it is worth finding out what designs exist for keeping them. Several types of structures are now known:

1. An ordinary cage for keeping rabbits is represented by a kind of box on high legs with two doors. Inside, the space is divided into a feeding and nesting compartment, and a manhole is equipped between them. Cages should be equipped with feeders and drinkers of various designs, as well as sufficient space for the animal to be active. If you make the most popular rabbit cage with your own hands, its diagram should look something like this:

Some sizes can be increased slightly, based on the breed of rabbits, but in most cases these are the parameters that are suitable for adults.

Of course, there are some differences when creating cages for young animals, pregnant and lactating females, and adults, but in general they are all built according to the same scheme. To keep two individuals in one cage, it is worth slightly increasing its size.

2. The design of the cell proposed by I.N. is considered very complex. Mikhailov. Mikhailov cages for rabbits are entire mini-farms or, as they are called in scientific sources, reproduction units. Its units are equipped ventilation systems, original feeders, many manholes and shelves, electrically heated uterine compartments and drinking bowls, self-removal systems for manure, etc. The head farm is constantly improving its cages, so followers should regularly visit the authors' farm to keep up with the latest developments in the field of accelerated rabbit breeding.

3. Unlike the previous unit, the design proposed by another author, N.I., has taken root among the people. Zolotukhin. Creating a Zolotukhin cage for rabbits with your own hands is not a very difficult process, and besides, the author does not even think about hiding his ideas. From above, its design looks like this:

The floor is made of plywood or flat slate, not from the grid. Mesh, about 10-15cm wide, is only used on the floor at the back of the cage, as this is where rabbits urinate most often. Zolotukhin’s designs are three-tiered: two cages in three floors, with each upper floor moved back by the distance of the grid in the floor - so the waste products of rabbits do not interfere with the inhabitants of the lower cages. Also, a distinctive characteristic of these cages is the absence of a stationary queen cell: in winter, a burrow house is placed in the cage, and in summer, the female rabbit makes a nest right in the hay.

Craftsmen also create other structures with different numbers of tiers and with different equipment, using combinations of the most suitable, in their opinion, components of the cage and building materials.

Stages of creation

It is worth considering in detail the process of creating the simplest single cage for a rabbit (more complex designs are also based on this approach):

1. First you need to choose a place where the rabbitry will be located. It should be protected as much as possible from wind and drafts.
2. The next thing you need to create a rabbit cage with your own hands is drawings. They take into account the purpose of a particular cell, its various contents, and the structure of the entire structure. When determining the size, you should rely on the size of a specific breed, but most often they take the size of 150*70*70 cm.
3. Next, a frame of beams is made according to the dimensions. If in the front part the height of the cage is usually 60-70 cm, then in the rear part the height is taken less (so that the roof is tilted).
4. The frame is sheathed with plywood, boards or other selected material. Inside, the cage is divided by a partition into nesting and feeding compartments, and a hole with a diameter of 20 cm is cut out in the partition. To prevent rabbits from gnawing the partition, it is better to line the hole with tin.
5. After the walls, they begin to make the roof (for ease of maintenance, it is better to make it removable).
6. Cages are hung on the façade doors, and the door to the aft compartment is made of mesh, and the door to the nest compartment is made of boards.
7. When keeping rabbits outside, you can attach an additional structure made of mesh for walking to the back of the cage. If you carefully think through the design of ladders and shelves, you can provide the rabbit with the opportunity to sometimes eat pasture.
shelves, etc.),
8. tall and solid pallet(this is important both for the pet itself, since its paws do not have pads, and for the owner, so that the contents of the cage are not scattered around),
9. absence of sharp elements, slippery surfaces, parts treated with varnish or paint for the safety of the big-eared animal.

Cages are usually purchased for residential use because they are quite beautiful. But beauty does not always mean convenience for a pet, and therefore it makes sense to think about how the cage is made for decorative rabbit with your own hands. You can easily make a cage that looks like purchase option, from a fairly high rectangular basin (to create a pallet) and galvanized mesh with cells no larger than 25*25 mm.

This mesh bends easily and does not break, making it easy to make a parallelepiped without a lower part, and insert the lower ends of the wire into pre-made holes on the side of the basin. There is a door on one of the walls. To prevent the floor from being slippery, you can pour sawdust into the cage or put corrugated cardboard on the bottom. At the end, you need to place a drinking bowl, feeder, ladder and other entertainment for your eared pet in the cage.

This article is addressed to beginning rabbit breeders. I collected 7 detailed instructions how to make rabbit cages with your own hands. You can breed both ordinary and decorative ones - the first for meat and skin, the second for mood.

Cages are most often made of plywood or chipboard, from which the walls and roof are made. The frame is made of boards or timber, which also serve as “legs” or supports. If the cells are under open air, then the roof is made from roofing material, for example, from a metal profile.

Video - building a cage for rabbits step by step

The first guide I want to put is this video material, which shows the stages of construction in an accessible, understandable and without unnecessary movements and words three-tier cage for rabbits. The design is comfortable and practical. The waste is discharged through inclined trays and the cages are always dry.

Rabbit cage drawing and general information

Knowing the required space for the life of one rabbit, you can calculate the future volume of the cage or enclosure. It should also be taken into account that for better development, the rabbit also needs space to move.

The figure shows general information about rabbits average height, length, minimal space for their living and walking area. The minimum width of the cage is the size of the rabbit when stretched, the minimum length of the cage is 3-4 rabbit jumps, the minimum height is so that the rabbit can stand on its hind legs and not touch the ceiling.

First, I will show you a drawing of a simple cage for rabbits for a small family. This cage can be made in order to raise several animals for food by the fall.

Another interesting drawing cages for rabbits with a walking area right on the ground. This design mobile and can be moved around the site so that rabbits always have access to greenery.

There is information for summer residents on how to build a cage for keeping domestic rabbits in just half a day. The cages are built from three to four layers of plywood and galvanized mesh.

The design of a cage with bunker feeders and nurseries for roughage is well described. The floor in the cage is made of mesh, the roof is made of plywood. On this site you can see detailed photographs and also find out optimal sizes designs.

Schemes and drawings of cages for rabbits

Here are the sketches different options“houses” for rabbits: cages, barrels and cages themselves. A diagram of a cage for 2 adult rabbits is shown. The drawing of a simple cage for young animals shows the dimensions that will be useful to you when making it yourself.

Video - cages for rabbits Zolotukhin

You can watch a video with the participation of Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin. He talks about the design of his redesigned rabbit hutches. In these cages, the floor is made of flat slate, and the mesh (5 cm wide) is fixed only at the rear edge of the cage.

This allows you to make multi-story cages and makes cleaning easier. Very useful experience! The master also talks about some important elements cages, for example, about an overturning feeder, which is convenient to fill and clean.

Mikhailov mini-farm - drawing

You can see Mikhailov’s legendary mini-farm here:

In such mini-farms, professional breeders breed rabbits. You will see in the photo detailed analysis mini-farm designs. Drawings of cages for rabbits with dimensions are given.

Such cages are equipped with automatic drinking bowls and feeders for animals, which allows them to be fed without rationing. And as a result, such mini-farms are simply created for the reproduction of animals. And this will increase the profits of farmers using Mikhailov’s mini-farms!

This “apartment” house for rabbits from the portal “Ya-Fermer.ru”

made according to the drawings of Mikhailov’s mini-farm. The master writes about the advantages and disadvantages of these cells. He gained this experience after using and caring for rabbits in these cages for one winter.

You will see unique photos author. Next, the author provides a photo of the step-by-step development of his own project of cages for rabbits. You can watch a video of making a drinking bowl, feeder and manger for roughage. Very interesting unique material!

If you are a non-professional rabbit breeder and are just starting to breed rabbits, then this article is for you. Here is another author's model of a simple one-story rabbit cage with a drawing. This is more of a one-story residential complex for furry animals. The floor in the cage can be made of mesh or slats.

Video on making a cage using this drawing

Discussion of a rabbitry with queen cells made of clapboard

the master posted a photo of a rabbitry with queen cells for 6 females. Very beautiful outdoor cages made of clapboard! Forum participants criticized the master. An interesting argument even arose between them.

We encourage you to read the criticisms and take them into account when building cages for your rabbits! Moreover, the author put the rabbitry up for public discussion, which means he wanted to ask experts what needs to be corrected. Consider the advice of experienced rabbit breeders!

Almost every owner country house there is a small farm. Some people prefer to raise cattle, others poultry, and others like to raise fluffy and adorable rabbits. But for any household it is worth considering comfortable living conditions. If you have chosen rabbits and decided to make cages for them with your own hands, you should decide in advance where to install the cages, their sizes and internal filling.

On your own plot of land, cages with livestock can be placed:

• on outdoors;
• indoors, such as a barn.

All cages for rabbits, depending on their location and breeding method, are divided into three types:

• year-round outdoor seating;
• year-round indoor maintenance;
• combined maintenance (outdoors in summer, in a barn in winter).

Many rabbit breeders believe that the best option placement of cells is their arrangement in the open air. This content has a beneficial effect on animals, promotes the development of immunity to diseases, and the presence of beautiful and high-quality hair. Farming in street conditions increases the productivity of females, increases the number of rabbits in one litter and promotes their endurance.

When choosing a place to install the cage, you should consider:

• air humidity. It should vary between 60-75%. That is, the place should be chosen on a hill and away from bodies of water;
• exposure to direct sunlight, which has a negative effect on animals. It is better to place the cages under trees or behind an artificial fence;
• the presence of drafts, which are common cause rabbit diseases. Air movement should not exceed 30 m/s. Don't forget about high-quality ventilation in cells. Otherwise, the fumes will undermine the health of your pets.

Street cages

All rabbit cages may differ in:

• sizes;
• structures;
• manufacturing materials.

They are simple, two-tiered with additional amenities, for example, heated. What kind of cage you need to build for your farm largely depends on the breed of rabbits, their size, the availability of building materials and personal preferences.

The advantages of setting up rabbit hutches outdoors include:

• availability of large space;
• ease of caring for animals;
• the ability to build convenient and affordable structures.

To build outdoor cages, you will need to prepare reliable materials. They must be resistant to moisture, frost and sudden changes temperatures

Important: the cage for rabbits must protect the animals from penetration by predators such as dogs, cats, foxes, and rats.

To prevent your pets from being bothered by direct sunlight and precipitation, make a canopy with a large canopy over the building. If you are breeding animals all year round, it is necessary to take care of insulating one of the parts of the cage. Despite the fact that these animals tolerate well low temperature air, it is necessary to create a cozy and warm place for them where they can bask.

Important: special attention is paid to the insulation of queen cells and the compartment with small rabbits.

Cages placed indoors

Structures placed in sheds can be made of a single metal mesh attached to a wooden frame. The floor must be made of wood.

If you raise rabbits in indoors, it should be:

• well plastered;
• ventilated;
• illuminated in winter - at least 10 hours.

It would be nice if there was a window on the entire wall on the south side of the barn.

Combined rabbit breeding option

For combined option Mobile cages are most suitable for breeding animals. IN warm time It will be convenient to take them outside during the year, and to install them indoors in cold weather.

If funds allow, you can make two versions of cages: one for the street, the other for the barn. But this is unlikely to be an option suitable for those who breeds a large number of animals.

Cell design and size

Rabbit cages can be single or multi-tiered. Depending on who they are intended for (fawns, young animals, adults), their design depends.

Single-tier and multi-tier structures

Single-tier cages are placed above the ground at a distance of 80 cm. The roof of the structures is covered with slate or metal sheet.

Important: if the cages are located outside, it is better to cover them with slate, since the metal gets very hot, and these animals do not tolerate heat well.

For easy care of animals, it is better to make the tray with a gutter for easy cleaning. In single-tier structures they are installed metal pallets, intended for pet waste.

Multi-tiered cells can consist of two or more tiers. On each tier there is required amount sections. They can be made from bars, galvanized mesh and boards. These materials are suitable for the construction of rabbit hutches both outdoors and indoors.

Multi-tiered products are often called sheds. In them, the tiers are placed one above the other. This helps you save free space. Ideal option are two-tier structures. They provide convenient care and monitoring of pets.

During construction multi-tiered cells, there must be a space of at least 15 cm between each tier. A metal roof must be installed above each cage, and inclined ebbs must be installed in the space between each tier. This is necessary so that the animals’ waste does not fall on the lower tiers, does not linger on the roof, but flows into specially arranged drains behind the cages.

Some people prefer to use removable plastic trays in their cages. They are convenient and easy to use. Such pallets can be installed directly in the cages themselves, or on runners under the grated floor.

Cages for breeding

In breeding cages it is necessary to install on the sides special cameras or provide space for a mobile queen cell. If you choose an inpatient department, then the removable floor, walls and ceiling are made solid. They must be well insulated so that the young offspring do not die from cold and draft. In the rest of the cage, the floor can be made of metal mesh or wooden blocks.

The mobile queen cell is a completely closed box with an opening for entry. This box should have an additional side door so that the queen cell can be conveniently cleaned and dried. This design is convenient in that it can be rearranged into different cells as needed. They are also much more convenient for changing bedding and cleaning. The building is insulated for feeding with shavings or hay.

If you are expecting offspring in the cold winter, the mobile queen cell should be placed in an electric heating pad to create comfortable conditions for the female rabbit a few days before the birth.

In winter, it is practically impossible to do without heating the uterine tract. If you do not have an electric heating pad, you can use a regular light bulb, which should be kept constantly on during this period. The light bulb must be placed in a compartment located behind the wall of the uterine chamber.

Attention: choosing to heat the queen cell light bulb, take care of fire safety. The chamber in which the lamp will be located should first be sheathed with thin metal.

There is another method of heating this part of the cage using a heating cable for underfloor heating. It is fixed to the bottom of the queen cell, and a removable floor panel is placed on top of it.

Important: if you prefer this type of heating, make sure that the cable is intact and without defects. Such a heating system can be connected to a thermostatic regulator. This will allow you to regulate the temperature in the uterine compartment, depending on weather conditions.

If the cells are in a barn, it is better to use a mobile queen cell. Then it will be easier to ventilate and clean them outside. If you decide to make a built-in uterine chamber, the floor in it should be removable.

In two-section single-tier cages, the length of each section should be at least 100-120 cm, and the depth - 55-65 cm. The width of the built-in uterine chamber should be 35-40 cm.

Cages for young animals

Rabbits aged from three to five months are called young animals. They are kept in groups of 8-20 pieces. The height of the walls of the cages must be at least 35 cm. The total area is calculated based on the fact that there should be 0.25 square meters per animal.

Multi-tiered cages for young animals are installed outdoors and rise 75 cm from the ground. If the floor is made of wooden blocks, it is recommended to install a metal mesh on top. This way, you will protect the rabbits, who will gnaw the tree and scratch it with their paws. For older rabbits, you can make a mesh floor.

IN winter period, cages with young animals must be well insulated. For this, hay or straw is used, laid 2 cm thick.

Cage for adult rabbits

Cages for medium-sized adult rabbits should have a depth of 60-70 cm and a length of 100 cm. This minimum dimensions for comfortable breeding of animals. They can be made using the same block structures. That is, in each block there are two cells separated by a wall.

To mate animals, it is worth considering combining two cages into one using a removable partition. For adult rabbits, it is recommended to make the floor from galvanized mesh.

Attention: adults must move freely around the cage. Their growth and development will depend on this.

Cage with aviary for walking

Cages with an aviary for walking are suitable for both young animals and rabbits of reproductive age. This design should consist of two separate compartments with a partition, a roof and a mesh enclosure. The two compartments are connected by a round or square entrance cut into the rear wall of the structure. Thanks to the convenient design, the animals move easily inside, which contributes to their proper development and growth.

The cage with a walk can be any size. It is good if its depth varies between 60-65 cm, and the depth of the enclosure - 80-100 cm. Such structures consist of single-tier blocks consisting of two separate cells. A mesh enclosure is attached to the back of the cages if there is space.

Cages for giant rabbits

Since the giant breed belongs to large rabbits, then the cells for them must have appropriate sizes. Giants grow to considerable sizes. Their length is 55-65 cm, and their weight varies from 5.5 to 7.5 kg. When building housing for large breeds, it is worth starting from the weight and height of the animals.

For one adult, a cage is required with dimensions of 96 cm in length, 70 in depth, and 60-70 cm in height.

For young animals of the giant breed, housing may be a little simpler. For eight animals you need a cage with an area of ​​1.2 square meters. m. Its height must be at least 40 cm.

Important: giant rabbits have an impressive weight. Therefore, the bottom of the cells should be pre-strengthened. When making a mesh floor, preference is given to thick wire, 2 mm thick. To prevent the mesh from bending under the weight of the animals, it is necessary to secure bars underneath it. If you plan to install plastic or rubber trays in cages, it is better to make a solid field under them

California rabbit cage

Californian rabbits are quite popular among breeders. They are absolutely unpretentious in care and resistant to severe frosts. Adults reach a length of up to 50 cm, and their weight ranges from 4.5 to 5 kg. The cage for this breed should be 0.5 sq.m. Since this breed's paws are covered with coarse hair, the floor can be made of lattice or mesh.

If you breed rabbits only for meat, they can be kept in a hole measuring 200 by 200 cm and about a meter deep. The walls of the pit should first be reinforced with slate, and boards or mesh should be laid on the floor. For safety, a small fence and roof are built around the pit. This method of breeding animals is as close to natural as possible and gives good results. Rabbits love to dig holes in the ground. With proper care, they will delight their owners with numerous offspring.

Making your own cells

Having decided to build cozy houses for rabbits, it is necessary to decide in advance on the type of structure, its dimensions and materials of manufacture. You will need to prepare:

• hacksaw;
• hammer;
• corner;
• plane;
• screwdriver

Any type of cage will consist of: a frame, walls, floor, ceiling and doors. As a rule, when building houses for these animals, it is used metal grid or natural wood.

As for materials for construction, you should prepare:

• large sheets of plywood;
• slate;
• nails and screws;
• bars;
• slats;
• galvanized mesh.

To make doors, you will need to additionally prepare curtains and latches.

Having chosen wood as the main building material, it should be sanded and sanded in advance. All sharp edges are processed so that the animal does not get hurt. Since rabbits wear down their teeth on wood, there should always be branches in the cages. Otherwise, they will simply gnaw on their housing.

Feeders and drinkers for rabbit cages

In addition to the construction of cells, it is necessary to carefully consider their internal arrangement. Food and water should be provided to the animals in a comfortable way. Feeders can be purchased ready-made in a store or made on your own.

Rabbits need a lot of food every day clean water. If you just pour it into a plate, dirt and debris will get into it, or animals will constantly spill water. When choosing a drinking bowl, you should decide on its:

• manufacturing materials;
• location;
• volume;
• type of construction.

Attention: if the drinking bowl is made of thin plastic, animals will quickly gnaw through it. And in metal cans the water will become cloudy and dirty.

Automatic drinkers

Automatic shelves are most often used on farms where there are a lot of livestock. This design is quite simple and consists of: a bowl connected to a container. The bowl of water is always inside the cage, and the container is outside. It is easy to use and durable.

The principle of operation of this drinking bowl is quite simple: as the water from the bowl decreases, a new portion from the container enters it.

Attention: making such a drinking bowl with your own hands is quite difficult. It is easier to purchase it ready-made in the store.

Nipple drinkers

Nipple designs are practical and convenient. The liquid does not spill into them and remains in the tube until the animal begins to drink. The only drawback of such a product is that in the cold season the liquid can simply freeze in the tube.

Vacuum drinker

You can easily build a vacuum drinker with your own hands from a simple plastic bottle. You can make such a drinker as follows:

1. A bowl with a flat bottom should be fixed at a height of 10cm from the floor on the cage so that one half of it is inside the structure and the other is outside.
2. Let's take a simple one plastic bottle for one or two liters and fill it with water. We close the bottle with a lid, turn it upside down and place it on a bowl. We secure the bottle to the cage with clamps or wire.
3. Carefully unscrew the lid and the bowl will automatically fill with water. As the animals drink water from the drinking bowl, it will be replenished with new liquid to a certain level.

Throttle drinker

The throttle drinker works on the principle of a conventional washbasin. You can also make it yourself. To do this, you will need to take a plastic bottle, make a small hole in the cap and attach the choke. A rubber gasket can be used as a valve. It will hold the throttle well and close the hole in the lid.

The drinking bowl is attached in a vertical position to the cage at a height of 30 cm from the floor.

Hanging drinker

A hanging drinker is also made from a bottle. It is suspended horizontally on a wire, at a height of 30 cm from the floor. To make this design, it is necessary to make a cutout in the bottle, 10 cm wide along the entire length, retreating only 5 cm from the bottom and lid of the product.

The hanging drinking bowl is attached to the outside of the cage - with a cut hole facing inward.

Feeders

It is worth considering the design of feeders at the design stage of cage construction. You can feed your rabbits using:

At the right approach When breeding rabbits, you can achieve good results. If the cages are built in accordance with all standards and requirements, and feeders, drinkers and queen cells are correctly located in them, your pets will feel as comfortable as possible, will quickly develop and gain weight.