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Rafters perform a number of significant roofing functions. They set the configuration of the future roof, absorb atmospheric loads, and hold the material. Among the rafter's duties are the formation of smooth planes for laying the covering and providing space for the components of the roofing pie.

In order for such a valuable part of the roof to flawlessly cope with the listed tasks, information is needed about the rules and principles of its design. The information is also useful for those who are constructing the rafter system gable roof with their own hands, and for those who decide to resort to the services of a hired team of builders.

In the construction of the rafter frame for pitched roofs, wooden and metal beams. The starting material for the first option is a board, log, timber.

The second is constructed from rolled metal: channel, profile pipe, I-beam, corner. There are combined structures with the most heavily loaded steel parts and wood elements in less critical areas.

In addition to its “iron” strength, metal has many disadvantages. These include thermal qualities that are unsatisfactory to the owners of residential buildings. The need to use welded joints is disappointing. Most often, industrial buildings are equipped with steel rafters, and less often, private cabins assembled from metal modules.

In the matter of independent construction of rafter structures for private houses, wood is a priority. It is not difficult to work with, it is lighter, “warmer”, and more attractive in terms of environmental criteria. In addition, to perform nodal connections you will not need welding machine and welding skills.

Rafters - a fundamental element

The main “player” of the frame for constructing a roof is the rafter, which among roofers is called a rafter leg. Beams, braces, headstocks, purlins, ties, even a Mauerlat may or may not be used depending on the architectural complexity and dimensions of the roof.

Rafters used in the construction of gable roof frames are divided into:

• Layered rafter legs, both heels of which have reliable structural supports. The lower edge of the layered rafter rests against the mauerlat or the ceiling crown of the log house. The support for the upper edge can be a mirror analogue of the adjacent rafter or a purlin, which is a beam laid horizontally under the ridge. In the first case, the rafter system is called spacer, in the second, non-spacer.
• Hanging rafters, the top of which rests against each other, and the bottom is based on an additional beam - a tie. The latter connects the two lower heels of adjacent rafter legs, resulting in a triangular module called a rafter truss. Tightening dampens the tensile processes, so that only vertically directed load acts on the walls. Although a structure with hanging rafters is braced, the bracing itself does not transmit to the walls.

In accordance with the technological specifics of rafter legs, the structures constructed from them are divided into layered and hanging. For stability, the structures are equipped with struts and additional racks.

To support the top of the layered rafters, planks and purlins are installed. In reality, the rafter structure is much more complex than the elementary templates described.

Note that the formation of a gable roof frame can generally be done without truss structure. In such situations, the supposed planes of the slopes are formed by slabs - beams laid directly on the load-bearing gables.

However, we are now interested specifically in the structure of the rafter system gable roof, and it can involve either hanging or layered rafters, or a combination of both types.

Subtleties of fastening rafter legs

Fastening the rafter system to brick, foam concrete, aerated concrete walls is carried out through the Mauerlat, which in turn is fixed with anchors.

Between the Mauerlat, which is wooden frame, and walls made of the specified materials in mandatory a waterproofing layer of roofing material, waterproofing material, etc. is laid.

The top of brick walls is sometimes specially laid out so that along the outer perimeter there is something like a low parapet. This is so that the mauerlat placed inside the parapet and the walls do not push apart the rafter legs.

The rafters of the roof frame of wooden houses rest on the upper crown or on the ceiling beams. The connection in all cases is made by notches and is duplicated with nails, bolts, metal or wooden plates.

How to do without mind-boggling calculations?

It is highly desirable that the section and linear dimensions wooden beams were determined by the project. The designer will provide clear calculation justification for the geometric parameters of the board or beam, taking into account the entire range of loads and weather conditions. If the home craftsman does not have a design development at his disposal, his path lies on the construction site of a house with a similar roofing structure.

You don’t have to pay attention to the number of floors of the building being constructed. It is easier and more correct to find out the required dimensions from the foreman than to find out them from the owners of a shaky self-built building. After all, in the hands of the foreman is documentation with a clear calculation of the loads per 1 m² of roof in a specific region.

The installation step of the rafters determines the type and weight roofing. The heavier it is, the smaller the distance between the rafter legs should be. For styling clay tiles, For example, optimal distance between the rafters there will be 0.6-0.7 m, and for corrugated sheets 1.5-2.0 m is acceptable.

However, even if the pitch required for proper installation of the roof is exceeded, there is a way out. This is a reinforcing counter-lattice device. True, it will increase both the weight of the roof and the construction budget. Therefore, it is better to understand the pitch of the rafters before constructing the rafter system.

Craftsmen calculate the pitch of the rafters according to the design features of the building, simply dividing the length of the slope into equal distances. For insulated roofs, the pitch between the rafters is selected based on the width of the insulation slabs.

You can find it on our website, which may also help you a lot during construction.

Rafter structures of layered type

Layered rafter structures are much simpler to construct than their hanging counterparts. A reasonable advantage of the layered scheme is to ensure adequate ventilation, which is directly related to long-term service.

Distinctive design features:

• It is mandatory to have support under the ridge heel of the rafter leg. The role of support can be played by the run - wooden beam, resting on racks or on the internal wall of the building, or the upper end of an adjacent rafter.
• Using a Mauerlat to erect a truss structure on walls made of brick or artificial stone.
• The use of additional purlins and racks where the rafter legs, due to the large size of the roof, require additional support points.

The disadvantage of the scheme is the presence structural elements, affecting the layout internal space used attic.

If the attic is cold and organization is not expected in it useful premises, then the layered structure of the rafter system for installing a gable roof should be given preference.

Typical sequence of work for the construction of a layered truss structure:

• First of all, we measure the heights of the building, the diagonals and horizontality of the upper cut of the frame. When identifying vertical deviations of brick and concrete walls, we eliminate them cement-sand screed. Exceeding the heights of the log house is cut off. By placing wood chips under the mauerlat, vertical flaws can be combated if their size is insignificant.
• The floor surface for laying the bed must also be leveled. It, the Mauerlat and the girder must be clearly horizontal, but the location listed elements not necessarily in the same plane.
• We process everything wooden parts structures before installation with fire retardants and antiseptics.
• On concrete and brick walls We lay waterproofing under the installation of the Mauerlat.
• We lay the mauerlat beam on the walls and measure its diagonals. If necessary, we slightly move the bars and turn the corners, trying to achieve the ideal geometry. Align the frame horizontally if necessary.
• We mount the Mauerlat frame. The beams are joined into a single frame using oblique notches; the joints are duplicated with bolts.
• We fix the position of the Mauerlat. Fastening is done either with staples to wooden plugs installed in advance in the wall, or with anchor bolts.
• Mark the position of the prone position. Its axis should recede from the mauerlat bars at equal distances on each side. If the run will rest only on posts without supports, we carry out the marking procedure only for these posts.
• We install the bed on a two-layer waterproofing. We fasten it to the base with anchor bolts, with internal wall we connect with wire twists or staples.
• We mark the installation points of the rafter legs.
• We cut out the racks to uniform sizes, because... Our bed is exposed to the horizon. The height of the racks should take into account the cross-sectional dimensions of the purlin and beam.
• We install racks. If provided by the design, we secure them with spacers.
• We lay the purlin on the racks. We check the geometry again, then install brackets, metal plates, and wooden mounting plates.
• Installing a trial rafter board, mark the cutting places on it. If the Mauerlat is set strictly to the horizon, there is no need to adjust the rafters on the roof after the fact. The first board can be used as a template for making the rest.
• We mark the installation points of the rafters. For marking, folk craftsmen usually prepare a pair of slats, the length of which is equal to the clearance between the rafters.
• According to the markings, we install the rafter legs and fasten them first at the bottom to the mauerlat, then at the top to the purlin to each other. Every second rafter is screwed to the Mauerlat with a wire bundle. IN wooden houses The rafters are screwed to the second crown from the top row.

If the rafter system is made flawlessly, the layer boards are installed in any order.

If there is no confidence in the ideal structure, then the outer pairs of rafters are installed first. A control string or fishing line is stretched between them, according to which the position of the newly installed rafters is adjusted.

The installation of the rafter structure is completed by installing fillets, if the length of the rafter legs does not allow forming an overhang of the required length. By the way, for wooden buildings the overhang should extend beyond the contour of the building by 50 cm. If you plan to organize a canopy, separate mini-rafters are installed under it.

Another useful video about building a gable rafter base with your own hands:

Hanging rafter systems

The hanging variety of rafter systems is a triangle. The two upper sides of the triangle are folded by a pair of rafters, and the base is the tie connecting the lower heels.

The use of tightening allows you to neutralize the effect of the thrust, therefore, only the weight of the sheathing, roof, plus, depending on the season, the weight of precipitation, acts on walls with hanging rafter structures.

Specifics of hanging rafter systems

Characteristic features of hanging type rafter structures:

• The obligatory presence of a tie, most often made of wood, less often of metal.
• Possibility to refuse to use the Mauerlat. A timber frame can be successfully replaced by a board laid on double-layer waterproofing.
• Installation of ready-made closed triangles – trusses – on the walls.

The advantages of the hanging scheme include the space under the roof free from racks, which allows you to organize an attic without pillars and partitions. There are disadvantages.

The first of them is restrictions on the steepness of the slopes: their slope angle can be at least 1/6 of the span of a triangular truss; steeper roofs are strongly recommended. The second disadvantage is the need for detailed calculations for the proper installation of cornice units.

Among other things, the angle roof truss You will have to install it with pinpoint precision, because... the axes of the connected components of the hanging rafter system must intersect at a point, the projection of which must fall on the central axis of the Mauerlat or the backing board replacing it.

Subtleties of long-span hanging systems

The tie is the longest element of a hanging rafter structure. Over time, as is typical for all lumber, it becomes deformed and sags under the influence of its own weight.

Owners of houses with spans of 3-5 meters are not too concerned about this circumstance, but owners of buildings with spans of 6 meters or more should think about installing additional parts that exclude geometric changes in tightening.

To prevent sagging, there is a very significant component in the installation diagram of the rafter system for a long-span gable roof. This is a pendant called a grandmother.

Most often it is a block attached with wooden pegs to the top of the truss. The headstock should not be confused with the racks, because its lower part should not come into contact with the puff at all. And the installation of racks as supports in hanging systems is not used.

The bottom line is that the headstock hangs, as it were, on the ridge assembly, and a tightening is attached to it using bolts or nailed wooden plates. To correct sagging tightening, threaded or collet-type clamps are used.

The tightening position can be adjusted in the area of ​​the ridge assembly, and the headstock can be rigidly connected to it by a notch. Instead of a bar in non-residential attics, reinforcement can be used to make the described tension element. It is also recommended to install a headstock or hanger where the tie is assembled from two beams to support the connection area.

In an improved hanging system of this type, the headstock is complemented by strut beams. The stress forces in the resulting rhombus are extinguished spontaneously due to the proper placement of vector loads acting on the system.

As a result, the rafter system is stable with minor and not too expensive modernization.

Hanging type for attics

In order to increase the usable space, the tightening of the rafter triangles for the attic is moved closer to the ridge. A completely reasonable move has additional advantages: it allows you to use the puffs as a basis for lining the ceiling.

It is connected to the rafters by cutting with a half-pan and duplicating with a bolt. It is protected from sagging by installing a short headstock.

A noticeable disadvantage of the attic hanging structure lies in the need for accurate calculations. It is too difficult to calculate it yourself; it is better to use a ready-made project.

Which design is more cost effective?

Cost is an important argument for self-builder. Naturally, the price of construction for both types of rafter systems cannot be the same, because:

• In the construction of a layered structure, a board or beam of small cross-section is used to make rafter legs. Because layered rafters have two reliable supports underneath them; the requirements for their power are lower than in the hanging version.
• In the construction of a hanging structure, the rafters are made of thick timber. To make a tightening, a material with a similar cross-section is required. Even taking into account the abandonment of the Mauerlat, the consumption will be significantly higher.

It will not be possible to save on the grade of material. For load-bearing elements Both systems: rafters, purlins, planks, mauerlat, headstocks, racks require 2nd grade lumber.

For crossbars and tensile ties, grade 1 will be required. In the manufacture of less critical wooden overlays, grade 3 can be used. Without counting, we can say that in the construction of hanging systems, expensive material is used in greater quantities.

Hanging trusses are assembled in an open area next to the facility, then transported, assembled, upstairs. To lift weighty triangular arches from timber, you will need equipment, the rental of which will have to be paid. And the project for complex nodes of the hanging version is also worth something.

Video instruction on the installation of a hanging category truss structure:

There are actually many more methods for constructing rafter systems for roofs with two slopes.

We have described only the basic varieties that are actually applicable for small country houses and buildings without architectural tricks. However, the information presented is enough to cope with the construction of a simple truss structure.

According to statistics, every second homeowner built his own home. According to their reviews, erecting a roof yourself is one of the most difficult stages for non-professional builders. Therefore, it is very important to approach this stage with a complete understanding of all the nuances of the process. To understand how to make a roof with your own hands, you need to study the device, installation technology, work order and features of fastening all components of the structure.

Types of roofs

First you need to decide on the form. Today the most popular types are:

Features of forms

Covering the roof with one single slope will save nerves and materials, since structurally this is the simplest option. If you make such a frame yourself, the labor intensity of the work will be minimal and the installation speed will be high. But this form has a drawback - there is no possibility of arranging a full-fledged attic or attic, since the under-roof space is too low.

A gable roof is installed much more often. It is a little more difficult to manufacture, but allows you to get more space. Compared to the hipped one, it has less complexity and mass, but it will be necessary to make triangular pediments at the ends of the building.

Gable - the most popular form

Before you start self-construction roofs with four slopes will require serious preparation. This system has more elements compared to the previous two. In addition, it is not possible to make full-fledged windows in the attic, since the roof structure does not have gables and installation is difficult or cannot be avoided.

The hipped roof is complex in design, but savings are achieved due to the absence of gables

For an attic, an excellent option would be a combined design with. In this case, in the lower part the roof has a greater slope than in the upper section. This assembly allows you to raise the ceiling in the room and make the constructed house more comfortable.

Broken line - not the most “architectural”, but very effective in terms of space used

Calculation

Before starting work, you need to make a design calculation. It makes no sense to calculate the cross sections of all elements. In most cases they can be accepted constructively:

• Mauerlat - 150x150 mm;
• racks - 100x150 or 100x100 mm depending on the cross-section of the rafters;
• struts - 100x150 or 50x150 mm, taking into account ease of connection with the rafters;
• puffs - 50x150 mm on both sides;
• purlins - 100x150 or 150x50 mm;
• overlays with thickness from 32 to 50 mm.

Calculations are usually performed only for rafter and slope legs. It is necessary to select the height and width of the section. The parameters depend on:

• roofing material;
• snow area;
• pitch of rafters (selected so that it is convenient to lay insulation, for mineral wool there should be 58 cm of clearance between the elements);
• span.

You can select the cross section of the rafters using general recommendations. But in this case it is recommended to make a small reserve.

The calculation is usually performed for rafter legs

If you don’t want to delve into the intricacies of calculations, you can use special ones.

If you are planning to do warm roof, then the height of the cross-section of the legs is selected taking into account the thickness of the insulation. It must be mounted so that it does not protrude above the supporting beams. You also need to take into account what is done for mineral wool ventilation gap 2-4 cm between it and the coating. If the height of the rafters is not enough for this, provision is made for installing a counter-lattice (counter battens).

Step-by-step instructions for performing the work

The sequence of stages of roof construction is as follows:

1. taking measurements of the building box (dimensions may slightly differ from the design ones);
2. preparation of materials and tools, treatment of wood with antiseptic;
3. fastening the Mauerlat to the wall;
4. installation of a ridge crossbar, if needed (for layered rafters);
5. frame installation;
6. strengthening the roof using racks, struts and tie-downs;
7. waterproofing;
8. sheathing;
9. providing ventilation;
10. installation of drips;
11. installation of coating.

Fastening the Mauerlat

In order for the roof to be securely fastened, you need to ensure that it is securely connected to the wall of the building. If a wooden house is being built, then the Mauerlat is not required - this element is the upper crown made of timber or logs. In this case, fastening to the wall is carried out using special “floating” fasteners. They are sold ready-made, most often called sleds. This type of roof arrangement allows the entire structure to shift slightly as the walls shrink without destruction or deformation.

“Sliding” fastening in a wooden house

A similar situation arises with a frame house. In this case, the Mauerlat will be top harness walls It is attached to the frame posts with a groove using angles, staples or nails.

Methods of attaching rafters to the frame in a frame house

The roof structure made of brick, concrete blocks or concrete involves fastening through a Mauerlat. In this case, there are several ways.

There are four ways to place the Mauerlat on the wall:

• on staples;
• on stiletto heels;
• on anchor bolts.

The Mauerlat can be secured to brackets. In this case, they are laid in the masonry from the inside wooden blocks. They should be located at a distance of 4 rows from the edge. One side of the bracket is attached to the mauerlat, and the other to the same block in the masonry. The method can also be considered simple. It is not recommended for large buildings with high loads.

Fastening the Mauerlat to brackets. Antiseptic wooden blocks are provided in the masonry of the wall with a pitch of 1-1.5 m

When installing the roof yourself, fastening can be done through studs or anchor bolts with a diameter of 10-12 mm. The fasteners are laid in the masonry. The Mauerlat is temporarily placed on the sawn-off edge; you need to hit it lightly with a hammer. After this, indentations remain on the beam at the fastening points. You need to make holes for the studs along them. After this, the beam is put on the fasteners and the nuts are tightened. The method is ideal for walls made of lightweight concrete with a monolithic reinforced belt.

Attaching the rafters to the mauerlat

In houses made of brick or stone, it is more reasonable to perform it using rigid fastening of the rafters to the mauerlat. In this case, you can use both a layered and hanging system. The design involves two methods:

• with notch;
• without cutting.

In the first case, the rafters are cut with a slope so that they are tightly adjacent to the mauerlat. To remove the cornice, fillies are provided. They are attached to the leg with an overlap of at least 1 m. Rigid fixation of the assembly should be done using self-tapping screws, nails or staples. But the assembled frame will be more reliable if metal corners with holes for self-tapping screws are used for fixation.

The method without cutting often does not involve the use of fillies. In this case, the beams themselves provide the frame extension. This option is simpler than the previous one, since it does not require high precision. It is suitable for beginners. In this case, stop bars or boards are used to ensure a tight fit to the Mauerlat. Rigid fixation, as in the previous case, is performed metal corners on both sides.

Attaching rafters to the wall

The completed frame must be secured to the frame of the building - this will prevent a strong gust of wind from tearing off the roof. To do this, the rule is to use a twist of two wires with a diameter of 4 mm. They are wrapped around the leg where it rests on the mauerlat, and then the wire is attached to the wall with an anchor or ruff about 4-5 rows before the cut. The element must be laid in the masonry in advance.

Wind protection

For wooden house you can simplify the task. You can assemble the frame using staples. This option will speed up the process. But it is important to remember that this method is only suitable if the walls are made of wood.

Strengthening the system

How to strengthen the frame for spans of more than 6 meters? It is necessary to reduce the free span of the rafters. For this purpose, struts and racks are used. Reinforcement must be done taking into account the layout; it is important that these elements do not interfere with people’s stay and fit harmoniously into the interior.

The struts are usually placed at an angle of 45 or 60 degrees to horizontal plane. The racks cannot be supported on the floor span. They can be installed on underlying walls or beams and trusses thrown between walls.

Tightening is necessary to reduce the thrust. Because of it, the rafters can simply move apart. This is especially true for systems with hanging beams. To assemble the frame, use two ties, which are attached on both sides of the rafters. Fixation is carried out using screws, nails or studs.

At the top point, the rafters rest on an intermediate or ridge girder. Depending on the chosen system, location and width of the span, it is made of timber with a cross-section from 50x100 to 100x200 mm. Fastening is carried out on connecting metal plates, bolts or nails.

Lathing

Before starting work at this stage, it is necessary to lay waterproofing material. Builders recommend using a vapor diffusion moisture-proof membrane. It costs more than polyethylene film, but guarantees more reliable protection. Owning your own home is not a reason to save money.

The roof requires fastening of the sheathing. The type depends on the selected roofing material. For metal, a sparse sheathing of boards 32-40 mm thick will be sufficient. Under bitumen shingles you need a continuous sheathing made of 25-32 mm boards or moisture-resistant plywood.

Ventilation of the under-roof space

Before proceeding with the roofing stage, it is worth considering the ventilation of the under-roof space. This will protect structures from mold, mildew and destruction.

Correct arrangement ventilation under the roof will protect the structure from the appearance of fungus

For ventilation it is necessary to provide:

• air flow through the cornice (the cornice is hemmed with a sparse board or special perforated soffits);
• air movement under the coating (there should be a gap of 2-3 cm between the insulation and the roof);
• air outlet in the area of ​​the ridge (for this, a ridge and/or point aerator is installed on the roof).

Roof covering

The type of roof is selected for aesthetic and economic reasons. It is also worth studying manufacturers' offers and finding out permissible slope. For example, it is not recommended to lay bitumen shingles on a slope of more than 45°.

Seam roofing is a lightweight fireproof and durable covering

The flooring material must provide reliable waterproofing. Its installation is carried out in strict accordance with the manufacturer's instructions. There are five most common types of coverage: roof insulation.

Roof installation is a complex multi-step process. To independently assemble and install a rafter system, you need to carefully study the methods of connecting elements, calculate the length of the rafters and the slope angle, and select the appropriate materials. If you don’t have the necessary experience, you shouldn’t take on complex designs. The best option for a residential building small sizes– do-it-yourself gable roof.

A standard roof of this type consists of the following elements:

Mauerlat is a timber laid on top of the walls along the perimeter of the building. It is secured using threaded steel rods embedded in the wall or anchor bolts. The timber must be made of coniferous wood and have a square section of 100x100 mm or 150x150 mm. The Mauerlat takes on the load from the rafters and transfers it to the external walls.

Rafter legs- these are long boards with a cross section of 50x150 mm or 100x150 mm. They are attached to each other at an angle and give the roof a triangular shape. The structure of their two rafter legs is called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the house and the type of roofing. The minimum distance between them is 60 cm, the maximum is 120 cm. When calculating the pitch of the rafter legs, you should take into account not only the weight of the covering, but also the wind load, as well as the amount of snow in winter.

It is located at the highest point of the roof and most often represents a longitudinal beam connecting both slopes. The beam is supported from below vertical racks, and the ends of the rafters are attached to the sides. Sometimes the ridge consists of two boards that are nailed to the top of the rafters on both sides and connected at a certain angle.

Racks are vertical bars with a cross section of 100x100 mm, located inside each truss and used to transfer the load from the ridge run to load-bearing walls inside the house.

The struts are made from scraps of timber and installed at an angle between the posts and rafters. Strengthened with struts side faces farm, rising load bearing capacity designs.

Tie - a beam connecting the lower parts of the rafters, the base of the truss triangle. Together with the struts, such a beam serves to strengthen the truss and increase its resistance to loads.

A log is a long beam with a cross-section of 100x100 mm, laid along the central load-bearing wall, on which vertical posts rest. Lezhen is used when installing layered rafters when the run between the outer walls is more than 10 m.

The sheathing consists of boards or timber placed on the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, depending on the type of roof. It is always attached perpendicular to the direction of the rafters, most often horizontally.

If there is no more than 10 m between the external walls and there is no load-bearing wall in the middle, arrange hanging rafter system. With this system, the upper ends of adjacent rafters are sawn at an angle and connected to each other using nails, excluding the installation of racks and ridge beams. The lower ends of the rafter legs rest on the external walls. Due to the absence of racks, the attic space can be used for arranging an attic. Very often, the function of tightening is performed by floor beams. To strengthen the structure, it is recommended to install the top tie at a distance of 50 cm from the ridge.

If there is a central supporting wall, the arrangement is more justified layered rafter system. A bench is laid on the wall, support posts are attached to it, and nailed to the posts ridge beam. This installation method is quite economical and easier to implement. If the ceilings are interior spaces are designed on different levels, the racks are replaced with a brick wall, dividing the attic into two halves.

The roof installation process includes several stages: attaching the Mauerlat to the walls, assembling the trusses, installing the rafters on the floors, installing the ridge, and attaching the sheathing. Before assembly, all wooden elements are carefully treated with any antiseptic composition and dried in air.

To work you will need:

• timber 100x10 mm and 150x150 mm;
• boards 50x150 mm;
• boards 30 mm thick for lathing;
• roofing felt;
• metal studs;
• jigsaw and hacksaw;
• hammer;
• nails and screws;
• square and building level.

In wooden houses The functions of the mauerlat are performed by the logs of the last row, which significantly simplifies the work process. To install the rafters, just cut inside log grooves of the appropriate size.

IN brick houses or buildings made of blocks, installation of the Mauerlat occurs as follows:

The mauerlat bars must form a regular rectangle and be in the same horizontal plane. This will facilitate further installation of the roof and provide the structure with the necessary stability. Finally, markings are made on the beams for the rafters and grooves are cut along the thickness of the beam.

When choosing a hanging rafter system, it is necessary to assemble the trusses on the ground and then install them above the floors. First you need to draw up a drawing and calculate the length of the rafter legs and the angle of their connection. Typically, the roof slope is 35-40 degrees, but in open, heavily blown areas it is reduced to 15-20 degrees. To find out at what angle to connect the rafters, you should multiply the angle of the roof by 2.

Knowing the length of the run between external walls and the angle of connection of the rafters, you can calculate the length of the rafter legs. Most often it is 4-6 m, taking into account the eaves overhang 50-60 cm wide.

The upper ends of the rafters can be fastened in several ways: overlapping, end-to-end and “into the paw”, that is, with grooves cut out. Metal plates or bolts are used for fixation. Next, the lower and upper ties are installed, and then the finished trusses are lifted up and installed above the floors.

The outer trusses are attached first: using a plumb line, the rafters are aligned vertically, the length of the overhang is adjusted and attached to the mauerlat with bolts or steel plates. To prevent the truss from moving during installation, it is reinforced with temporary beams made of timber. After installing the outer rafters, the rest are set, keeping the same distance between them. When all the trusses are secured, take a board with a cross-section of 50x150 mm, the length of which is 20-30 cm longer than the length of the cornice, and nail it along the upper edge of the slope. The same is done on the other side of the roof.

The first option: a rectangular groove is cut out on the rafter leg at the point where it contacts the mauerlat, 1/3 of the width of the beam. Stepping back 15 cm from the top of the box, a steel spike is driven into the wall. The rafter is leveled, the grooves are aligned, then a wire clamp is placed on top and the beam is pulled close to the wall. The ends of the wire are securely fastened to the crutch. The lower edges of the rafters are carefully cut off circular saw, leaving an overhang of 50 cm.

Second option: the upper rows of walls are laid out with a stepped cornice of bricks, and the mauerlat is placed flush with the inner surface of the wall and a groove is cut out in it for the rafter. The edge of the rafter leg is cut to the level top corner cornice. This method is simpler than others, but the overhang is too narrow.

Third option: beams ceilings are released over the edge outer wall by 40-50 cm, and the trusses are installed on the beams. The ends of the rafter legs are cut at an angle and rest against the beams, secured with metal plates and bolts. This method allows you to slightly increase the width of the attic space.

Installation of layered rafters

Figure 1 shows the cutting of rafter struts into a beam laid on intermediate supports, and Fig. 2 - resting the rafter leg on the mauerlat

The procedure for installing a layered rafter system:

When the main elements are fixed, the surface of the rafters is treated with fire retardants. Now you can start making the sheathing.

For the sheathing, timber 50x50 mm is suitable, as well as boards 3-4 cm thick and 12 cm wide. Waterproofing material is usually laid under the sheathing to protect the rafter system from getting wet. The waterproofing film is laid in horizontal strips from the eaves to the roof ridge. The material is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm, after which the joints are secured with tape. The lower edges of the film should completely cover the ends of the rafters.

It is necessary to leave a ventilation gap between the boards and the film, so first wooden slats 3-4 cm thick are stuffed onto the film, placing them along the rafters.

The next stage is covering the rafter system with boards; they are stuffed perpendicular to the slats, starting from the roof eaves. The pitch of the sheathing is influenced not only by the type of roofing, but also by the angle of inclination of the slopes: the greater the angle, the greater the distance between the boards.

After completing the installation of the sheathing, they begin cladding the gables and overhangs. You can cover the gables with boards, plastic panels, clapboard, waterproof plywood or corrugated sheeting - it all depends on financial capabilities and personal preferences. The sheathing is attached to the side of the rafters; nails or screws are used as fasteners. Overhangs are also hemmed various materials– from wood to siding.

Video - DIY gable roof

But it is unacceptable to relax at this step. Minor miscalculations will lead to the need for premature repairs, and if a serious mistake is made, the entire building may collapse. Find out which materials are suitable for the chosen project, consider the type of roof, decide whether the building needs attic space and whether it will be used. Study the brief installation instructions to do everything yourself or supervise the work of the craftsmen.

Preparatory work

Roof of a frame house with flat roof You can build it yourself, but it’s better not to take on more complex projects alone. Even at the stage of designing a house, it is important to think about:

• Roof shape.
• The slopes that will need to be made for the slopes.
• Roofing material.
• Device rafter system.
• The distance between the rafters and their cross-section.
• Sheathing step.
• Materials for insulation, vapor barrier, waterproofing.

Types of roofs by shape

The shape of the roof of a frame house is:

• Flat single-pitch is the cheapest and easiest to install.
• Gable - suitable for single-story and two-story houses with a small area and rectangular buildings.
• Broken line - ideal for projects with an attic.
• Four-slope - used for buildings of any type, resistant to wind loads.
• Multi-pincer – complex design, consisting of several slopes. Suitable for multi-level house projects.
• Spire-shaped - original, ideal for snowy regions, but requires complex calculations.

When choosing a roof shape, consider:

• Area, number of floors, general project and design of the house.
• Selected roofing material.
• Climatic conditions of the region (wind, snow).
• Budget.

It should be noted that the safest is considered slope slope ranging from 30 to 45 degrees.

Basic material selection criteria

For the roof of a frame house, you can choose various roofing materials, but preference should be given to lighter ones. This rule is especially important if the foundation is not designed for heavy loads.

• bitumen shingles;
• polymer sand tiles;
• corrugated sheeting;
• slate;
• metal tiles;
• cement-sand tiles.

For heavy roofing materials, lathing should be done more frequently. Additionally, you need to use a layer of waterproofing material. It is necessary to monitor the step of fastening the main roofing material. If you do it more often, the likelihood of roof leaks can be minimized.

When installing roofing materials, it is important to adhere to the following tilt angles:

• Minimum 10 degrees for corrugated sheets.
• From 12 and 60 degrees for slate.
• For Euro slate, the lower figure is 6 degrees.
• For ceramic tiles– from 18 to 60 degrees. The same indicator should be followed when fixing polymer sand tiles.
• For bitumen shingles– more than 12 degrees.
• Metal tiles require installation at an angle of over 15 degrees.

Features of roof installation

The easiest way is to make a pitched roof with your own hands; other options will require knowledge and experience.

Roof construction includes the following stages:

• Installation of the rafter system.
• Installation of material for insulation, vapor barrier and waterproofing.
• Lathing and counter-lattice.
• Installation of roofing material.

Rafter system The roof of a frame house must be correctly calculated. To do this, the section, pitch and the length itself are analyzed. Builders note that, first of all, the strength of the structure depends on the following parameters:

The cross-section can be selected using special construction tables or you can perform all the calculations yourself.

Installation of the rafter system

The roof of a frame house will last a long time if the ceiling beams are correctly and firmly fixed. For this, it is recommended to use timber with a section of 50 by 150 (200) mm.

At the first stage, you will need to create a special template for the rafter legs. To do this, all manipulations should be performed according to the following scheme:

1. Take two boards and place them at right angles to each other. For strong fixation, ordinary nails can be used.
2. The resulting element is additionally secured to one edge of the Mauerlat.
3. By moving the boards, set the angle, which will later be used as a ramp.
4. From the edge of the wall retreat at least 40 centimeters. The resulting space will be used for water drainage.
5. After obtaining the required angle, securely fix the beam. Builders advise marking the cut line with a simple pencil.

After preparing several templates, you will need to connect two pairs of rafters together. Fastening is done on both sides. If necessary, legs can also be extended separately in the future.

Regular thick bolts are quite suitable for joining. This option is several times safer, especially when compared with fastening with nails. Between two adjacent legs you will additionally need to install a transverse fastening option.

Single-pitch frame house will be protected from bad weather if all roofing elements are installed correctly. To do this, a rope is pulled between the side rafters. It will serve as a beacon and guideline against which the level is checked. Further elements are secured at a distance of 60 or 80 centimeters. This step is recommended to be followed at all times.

The calculations necessary to determine the number of rafters are made in advance. Between separate elements the roof truss will require two boards to be nailed. They will provide the necessary fixation. For additional protection from precipitation, you should install diffuse membrane.

The size and pitch of the sheathing can be calculated independently using formulas. In this case, it is necessary to take into account the slope and characteristics of a particular material. For the construction of the sheathing, it is possible to choose a beam whose cross-section is from 40 to 50 mm.

Laying roofing material

At the first stage, the cornice strip is installed. For this it is advisable to use self-tapping screws. Only after this is it allowed to lift metal tiles onto the roof. It is also secured to the cornice strip using self-tapping screws.

There are situations when one sheet is not enough. In this case, it is advisable to increase the length. To do this, the fastening is done with an overlap. All material is laid using this technology.

The video describes the installation of the roof in detail and in an accessible manner.

The roof frame of a house is one of the key elements the buildings. And if the frame is erected taking into account all the rules and compliance with construction standards, then there is a high probability that this building will serve its owners faithfully for decades.

Arrangement of the foundation and construction of the walls of the house is approaching the finish line, and novice builders are faced with the question: how to build the roof of the house? In fact, the choice of roofing and waterproofing materials is quite large, and you can always purchase it taking into account your financial capabilities. But the roofs of the house require special attention. First, you will need to decide what kind of roof you see and choose its type: single-pitch, gable, hip or sloping.

There are many advantages to making your own roof frame. Firstly, you will have a great opportunity to save on payments for hired craftsmen. And secondly, you yourself will control the entire construction process and will be able to prevent possible repair work in the future.

Once you have decided on the type of roof you want, you can safely begin building it. The process of constructing a frame is given as an example. gable roof, since this type is the most common among most private house buildings.

Choosing a rafter system

As you know, absolutely any rafter system is a connection of two rafter beams at the top of the structure. In the lower part of the structure, the rafters are secured due to the presence of a lower tie, and it can serve as an additional support that secures the integrity of the structure.

There are two main types of rafter systems: inclined and hanging. It is the inclined rafter system that is used in the construction of private housing. The choice of rafter system is usually determined by some design features the building itself. So, for example, if the distance between the two main load-bearing walls of the house is at least 6 meters, you can safely install a hanging rafter system. Then the main load-bearing mass will be taken over by the walls of the house. If the width between the walls is more than 6 meters, then there is a high probability of subsequent sagging of the rafters. In this case, care must be taken to install additional support.

Choosing material for a durable frame

Before making the roof frame, it will be useful for you to decide on the choice of material.

Wood is used as material for rafters, namely edged boards and timber. It is best to give preference to wood coniferous species, since this material contains resin, which acts as a kind of natural antiseptic that prevents rotting. Size edged boards must correspond the following parameters 50x150 mm, and timber - 150x150 mm.

Also remember that the rafter system consists not only of the rafters themselves, the racks and the purlins for them. These also include attic flooring, sheathing and counter-lattice. If you plan to use the attic as a warehouse and do not plan to make additional living space out of it, then for attic floor Boards measuring 50x150 mm will do just fine. And if you have always dreamed of an attic, then you should purchase timber measuring 150x150 mm.

For counter-lattice and sheathing, a beam measuring 40x40 mm is suitable; this is quite enough to support the weight of any roof. The main requirement for such material is that it is sufficiently straight, because if the timber has deviations, the sheathing of the frame will turn out uneven and the weight of the roof will be distributed unevenly.

Necessary equipment

In addition, you will need the following materials and tools:

• special metal pins, which, thanks to their threads, securely fix the support beam (mauerlat);
• brackets and brackets for fixing the rafters to the support beam;
• various fasteners (galvanized nails, self-tapping screws and small diameter studs);
• drill;
• saw;
• hammer;
• roulette;
• axe;
• plane;
• level or plumb.

Stages of constructing a roof frame

The main stages of constructing a roof frame for a house are as follows:

1. Wood processing. Since you will not have the opportunity to process lumber in the future, it would be best to do this at initial stage construction work. The material is treated with two compounds. The first, an antipyretic, can reduce the flammability of wood. The second, antiseptic, helps prevent rotting wooden elements. Remember that after processing the lumber must dry thoroughly.
2. Installation of the Mauerlat. Mauerlat is usually called a beam that acts as a support for the entire frame structure. It must be laid directly on the load-bearing walls of the house. And its main function is to uniformly distribute the load associated with the weight of the roof.
3. To lay the support beam, it is necessary to erect a solid concrete blind area along the perimeter of the entire building. After drying concrete screed It is necessary to lay several layers of waterproofing material on its surface; roofing felt is excellent for these purposes. Next, special metal pins with a diameter of at least 10 mm are installed in the concrete blind area. After that, the support beam is “put on” the installed studs; to do this, holes must be drilled in it in advance. Remember that the ends of the studs will need to protrude at least 10mm. Subsequent fixation is carried out using nuts.
4. We install the rafters. Experts advise: if you work alone, then to make the work easier, it is best to assemble the rafters on the ground. If you have an assistant, then you can safely assemble the structure directly on the roof of the house. First, you need to make grooves in the support beam for installing the rafter legs. The distance between the grooves must be determined in advance, based on the dimensions of the structure itself, but they should not be more than 1.5 m. Otherwise, the structure will have insufficient rigidity.
5. Rafters are installed from the front-end part of the building. Then you need to pull the cord between the ridges of the two end rafters. Thanks to this technique, it will be easy for you to navigate while aligning the vertical of the remaining intermediate rafters.
6. Next, the rafter legs must be inserted into pre-prepared grooves. Fastening is carried out through the use of complex fastening: transverse and longitudinal. Transverse fastening is carried out through the use of steel brackets, and longitudinal fastening is carried out through the use of special brackets that securely fix the rafters to the mauerlat. When installing the rafters, make sure that they extend beyond the perimeter of the building by about 40 cm.
7. We fix bottom part rafter system, using for these purposes a strapping - the base of the attic floor. If necessary, the harness can be extended with additional beams, laying them overlapping.
8. The rafters must be connected to each other by two pairs of studs. The presence of two, rather than one, studs is due to the fact that when fixed with one fastening element, the rafters will rotate around their axis.
9. We give the structure greater rigidity and install an additional cross beam. Now the rafters will outwardly resemble the letter A in shape, this technique is relevant in cases where the distance between the walls is more than 6 m. The dimensions of the transverse beam can have the following values: 50x150 or 50x100 mm. Fixation is carried out using self-tapping screws.
10. We install the ridge beam at the top of the rafters. If necessary, you can strengthen the upper unit with an additional cross beam.
11. After all the rafters have been erected, you can safely proceed to the lathing and counter-lattice. Today there are two options: thinned and solid, depending on what roofing material you plan to use. Thinned sheathing consists of horizontally packed beams on rafters with a certain distance. Any roofing material of increased rigidity (slate, corrugated sheeting, etc.) can be laid on such a sheathing. With continuous sheathing, sheets of moisture-resistant plywood are placed on the surface of the rafters; this design is excellent for laying a soft covering (roofing felt or any other rolled roofing material).