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Knowing which side to lay the vapor barrier against the insulation on the ceiling, wall or floor is very important when working on insulation. It only at first glance seems that which side to lay the vapor barrier against the wall insulation does not matter, but in reality this is not the case. We will tell you in this material why a vapor barrier is needed and its purpose. Watch the video - which side to lay the vapor barrier on, how to distinguish the inner side vapor barrier film from external.

The need for high-quality thermal insulation of premises arises very often. If you plan to insulate wooden house with your own hands, then many questions arise on how to do it correctly. And one of important issues concerns the need to use a vapor barrier, the place of the film in the thermal insulation “pie” and which side to lay the vapor barrier against the insulation on the wall.

Vapor barrier is always necessary when using moisture-absorbing insulation. The fact is that the characteristics of mineral wool are such that the material installed on the inside of the wall comes into contact with warm air, which contains water vapor. In the absence of a water barrier, moisture penetrates into the thermal insulation layer on the floor, where it condenses, turning into water.

As a result of moistening, the thermal insulation properties of mineral wool material are reduced, in addition, during humid environment Mold and mildew may appear. If the vapor barrier under the insulation on the wall is correctly laid, then it becomes an obstacle to moisture. Therefore, thermal insulation requires the installation of a vapor barrier between the warm air of the room and the insulation.

Types of vapor barriers for insulation

Among those presented today at construction market modern materials For hydro- and vapor barriers, three main types can be distinguished:

Film refers to blind vapor barriers that do not allow moisture to pass through. Main advantage polyethylene film- This low price. Two-layer vapor-condensate films are also produced - these are smooth on the inside and rough on the outside. Drops of water do not pass through the film, but are retained.

Diffusion membrane– a vapor barrier with limited vapor permeability, consisting of non-woven polypropylene and polymer film. It has an outer and inner side (see video), which allows steam to pass through it in an optimal amount. Water vapor does not linger in the insulation, but quickly evaporates.

Vapor barrier membrane(energy saving) film has a metallized outer layer that is resistant to high temperatures. The material is more often used when insulating the walls of baths and saunas, because the material additionally reflects infrared radiation (works like).

If glass wool is not protected with a vapor barrier during installation, then as moisture is absorbed, the thermal conductivity of the material will increase.

Roll waterproofing- used for protection building structures from moisture. Using of this material it does not depend on which side the waterproofing is laid to the insulation, since the rolled and coating ones do not allow moisture to pass in both directions.

At first glance, it seems that there is nothing complicated - attach the waterproofing film over the insulation from the side warm room and everything is ready. However, there are some important nuances, which you need to know about. It is also important to take into account which side the vapor barrier is laid to the insulation on the ceiling and what the installation features are. This is where previously acquired knowledge about the types of film used comes in handy.

How to distinguish the inside from the outside

If the manufacturer’s instructions are missing or do not contain the necessary information about which side of the film is considered internal, then you should independently determine this by external factors. Please pay attention to the following points:

1 . If waterproofing film has two sides different colors, That bright side isospan fits to the insulation;
2 . Side waterproofing, which when rolled out facing the floor, considered internal and should look towards the insulation;
3 . External side made fleecy so as not to allow moisture to pass through, and inner side smooth and is placed towards the insulation.

Which side should the vapor barrier be placed on the insulation?

The polyethylene film is laid on either side, because they are no different from each other. The diffusion membrane (vapour-condensate film) is correctly laid with the smooth side on the insulation, and the rough side towards the warm room. Thus, it prevents the insulation on the ceiling or wall from getting wet, and excess moisture from the material can freely pass through the smooth side.

Also, diffusion membranes are mounted on the floor or wall with the smooth side facing the insulation. Vapor barriers with a foil side are attached with the reflective side facing outwards, as it reflects heat back towards the warm room. And it should be remembered that laying vapor-tight materials, for example, isospan, requires the installation of a ventilation gap to remove excess moisture.

If the internal cladding (false wall) is made closely without a gap, then it will be exposed to the influence of moisture settling on the film. If there is a gap, air movement will facilitate the unhindered evaporation of excess condensate from the surface of the film. It is important not only to know which side to put the isospan towards the insulation, but also to maintain the integrity of the vapor barrier itself.

Video. Which side should I lay Izospan on?

IN winter period, when it’s frosty outside, but inside the house it’s cozy and warm, unnoticeable steam forms in the rooms. And this steam must leave the room freely. To accomplish this task, a vapor barrier is installed. You need to know which side to lay the vapor barrier on the floor, walls or ceiling.

Why do you need a vapor barrier?

Vapor barrier material is used for normal moisture circulation indoors. If you ignore the vapor barrier, then moisture in the air can enter the insulation and gradually destroy the material.

If the construction of buildings is carried out from a material that is already insulated, then the vapor barrier will serve as protection against the entry of harmful substances into the premises.

Insulation is a heat-insulating material. Depending on the origin of the feedstock, it is divided into:

• organic thermal insulation - the basis is wood, plants, animal hair;
• inorganic thermal insulation – mineral wool, fiberglass, concrete.

The installation of a vapor barrier layer is carried out to preserve comfortable temperature inside the house, preventing air from entering through the cracks of the building.

When using insulation that absorbs moisture well, you cannot do without a vapor barrier. In its absence, moisture is absorbed into the structure of the insulation and there it turns into water. With time thermal insulation characteristics insulation material will decrease. After a certain period, it will be possible to observe the appearance of fungus and mold. The use of a vapor barrier creates a kind of shield between the insulation and the internal air of the apartment.

Correct installation of the vapor barrier will allow the insulation to last a long time and effectively.

Types of vapor barriers

IN modern construction vapor barrier is successfully used to protect organic and inorganic thermal insulation materials. It comes in the following types:

• Film.

Film– a blind vapor barrier material that retains moisture and does not allow moisture to pass through. Due to its low cost and excellent waterproof characteristics, the film is used not only in the construction industry, but also for domestic needs. Films vary in thickness, number of layers, and surface quality. It can be smooth on the outside and rough on the inside. Water always remains on the surface of the film.

This type of vapor barrier material consists of a polymer film and polypropylene and has limited vapor permeability. Water vapor contained in the insulation immediately evaporates.

resistant to elevated temperatures external environment due to its metallized outer layer. Vapor barriers should be installed in rooms with high humidity and temperature. The material is capable of reflecting infrared radiation.

Permits moisture in two directions. Convenient to use when insulating large surface areas.

Thermal insulation and vapor barrier characteristics structures depend on the choice of material. A careful approach to the selection of the necessary products will ensure the comfort and coziness of the premises and will help extend the service life of the entire structure.

Principles of installing vapor barriers to different surfaces

Manufacturers of vapor barrier films, focusing on consumer desires, produce their products in different directions:

• for work on and under the roof;
• on vertical surfaces walls;
• on the floor.

Vapor barriers can be installed on any surface. When using vapor barrier material on wooden structures use a film with a membrane. Polymer or bitumen mastic can be used for any type of surface. On concrete walls It is recommended to install a vapor barrier with a metal outer layer.

Its use will be much more effective if the working side is prepared in advance. Preliminary work depend on the characteristics of the material with which the building is built.

When building a wooden house, first they impregnate everything wooden surfaces insect repellents and harmful bacteria. Only after completing a set of preparatory work are they started to install the vapor barrier layer.

Most quality material for insulation of wooden floors - breathable membranes. The body of the membrane consists of a layer of anti-condensation fibers that absorb and accumulate moisture. There are single-sided and double-sided membranes. In the latter option, moisture is absorbed from both sides at once, so the double-sided breathable membrane can be laid with either side to the floor.

When conducting overhaul All outdated insulating coatings are dismantled. Surfaces are thoroughly cleaned and impregnated with special disinfectants. Then you can lay the vapor barrier. Concrete surfaces They do not require special treatment with special means; they just need to be cleaned.

Features of installation on various surfaces

Installation of a vapor barrier layer is not particularly difficult; it must be done carefully preparatory work and know the main stages of installation.

Laying on the floor

Film – best option insulating the floor from moisture. On the ground floor, the insulation layer below is protected by a device, and closer to the premises - by a roll of insulating film, which is laid overlapping. The joints are taped with metallized tape or tape.

If it is interfloor or attic floor, then the film is unfolded with the smooth side down to protect against water vapor coming from the slab or floor logs.

Ceiling insulation

Used in rooms with high moisture content in the air. These can be bathrooms, showers, baths, saunas. The vapor barrier is securely overlapped and the joints are sealed. The reflective side of the material is directed indoors. Particular attention is paid to the corners of the room, the insulation should be slightly overlapping the walls around the entire perimeter of the room.

Vertical surfaces

For such surfaces, diffusion membranes are used, which allow air to pass through rather than moisture. The walls must “breathe”, so impermeable film is not used. In case of external work, the product is laid with the smooth side facing the insulation. When installing, the film is slightly stretched.

Roof mounting

The purpose of the vapor barrier is to protect the rafters from mold and prevent the formation of condensation in the insulating layer. Installation is carried out with an overlap and sealing of the seams. The main condition is to ensure the tightness of the roof in conjunction with the vertical elements of the building.

Basements, balconies and underground structures

Balconies, basements and underground rooms are in contact with cold outside air. For balconies, dense foamed polyethylene is used, the reflective side of which is directed indoors. For other structures, membrane film is used.

When working with vapor barrier materials, it is necessary to find out which side the product should be laid in relation to the insulation. The location of the vapor barrier will determine the degree of moisture absorption by the insulation and its service life. The instructions for the product indicate how to install it correctly. But what if there are no instructions? In this case, the installation method is determined independently, taking into account the following points:

• if available on vapor barrier material parties different color, then the lighter one is placed next to the insulation;
• the outer side of the product has a rough surface;
• if in doubt, take a glass with hot water and placed on the vapor barrier area. Condensation forms on the waterproof side.

A polyethylene film is laid with either side facing the insulation, while a diffusion film has one smooth surface, which should lie towards the insulation. By preventing the insulating layer from getting wet, it allows moisture to pass through the smooth side without hindrance.

• By placing the barrier with its smooth side facing the thermal insulation, the influx of steam and the formation of rotting processes in wooden structures are eliminated;
• when installing a thermal insulation layer outside the building, the insulating layer is placed outside the room;
• the film should fit tightly to the insulating layer;
• When sealing joints, wide adhesive tapes and tapes are used;
• when working with windows and doorways, it is necessary to leave a small supply of vapor barrier film;
• The film should be protected from direct sunlight;
• Before starting work, the most critical places are determined - areas of interaction between warm and cold air.

When performing work on installing a vapor barrier film, it is important that the product is attached correctly. Otherwise, the error will lead to ineffective thermal insulation.

When installing insulation from stone wool it is necessary to use vapor barrier and waterproofing (windproof) films to protect the insulation from vapors and moisture. If this is not done, the insulation will quickly pick up moisture, which will lead to significant loss of it. thermal insulation properties and to rapid spoilage.

There are many manufacturers of such films (Nanoizol, Izospan, Rockwool, etc.), but they are all produced according to similar principles. Vapor barrier is marked “B” in the name, wind protection is marked “A”. These films are attached on different sides to the insulation. Let's consider them separately.

Which side to attach the vapor barrier

The vapor barrier film has one smooth side and the other has a rough structure. This is done so that water vapor absorbed on the film does not collect in drops and flow down, but evenly lingers on the surface of the film and then evaporates into the air again. Otherwise, water accumulations could form at the bottom of the wall or pitched roof, causing rotting processes in the finishing materials.

This means that the vapor barrier needs to be installed with the smooth side facing the insulation, and the rough side inside the room.

Which side to attach the windproof film

Windproof film, unlike vapor barrier, has two functions: protecting the insulation from atmospheric moisture, and removing water vapor from the insulation to the outside. Waterproofing (also called windproof) film also has smooth and rough sides. The rough side is designed to absorb water vapor from the thermal insulation and remove it outside. The smooth side should collect moisture and, without allowing it to be absorbed, quickly remove it from the insulation.

Thus, the wind protection is attached with the smooth side outward and the rough side to the insulation.

Don't forget to use tape to hold the pieces together protective films between each other during installation so that moisture does not penetrate to the insulation through the joints.

This article was brought to me by the total ignorance on the part of both builders and buyers, as well as the phrase “vapor-hydro insulation” or “hydro-vapor insulation” that is increasingly flashing in commercial offers - because of which then all the pandemonium begins, lost money, problematic designs, etc.

So, you've probably heard about waterproofing, windproofing and vapor barrier - that is, about films that are placed in insulated roofs and frame walls to protect them. But then, a complete “steam and hydrodisorder” often begins.

I will try to write very simply and easily, without immersing myself in formulas and physics. The main thing is to understand the principles.

Steam or hydro?

Let's start with the fact that the main mistake is to confuse steam and moisture into one concept. Steam and moisture are completely different things!

Formally, steam and moisture are water, but in different states of aggregation, respectively, having a different set of properties.

Water, aka moisture, aka “hydra” (hydro from ancient Greek ὕδωρ “water”) is what we see with our eyes and can feel. Tap water, rain, river, dew, condensation. In other words, it is a liquid. It is in this state that the term “water” is usually used.

Steam is the gaseous state of water, water dissolved in the air .

When an ordinary person talks about steam, for some reason he thinks that it is necessarily something visible and tangible. Steam from the nose of a kettle, in a bathhouse, in a bath, etc. But actually it is not.

Steam is present in the air always and everywhere. Even now, as you read this article, there is steam in the air around you. It is the basis of that same air humidity, which you have probably heard about and more than once complained that the humidity is too high or too low. Although no one saw this moisture with their eyes.

In a situation where there is no steam in the air, a person will not live long.

Taking advantage of the different physical properties of water in liquid and gaseous states, science and industry have received the ability to create materials that allow steam to pass through, but do not allow water to pass through.

That is, this is a kind of sieve that can let steam through, but will not let water in a liquid state.

At the same time, particularly smart scientists, and then manufacturers, figured out how to make a material that would conduct water only in one direction. How exactly this is done is not important to us. There are few such membranes on the market.

Vapor-permeable membrane - allows steam to pass in both directions, but does not allow moisture to pass through

So, a construction film that is impervious to water, but allows steam to pass equally in both directions is called waterproofing paro permeable membrane. That is, it allows steam to pass freely in both directions, but water (hydra) does not pass through at all or only in one direction.

Paro insulation - this is a material that does not allow anything to pass through, neither steam nor water. Moreover, at the moment, vapor barriers membranes- that is, materials that have one-way permeability to steam have not yet been invented.

Remember as “Our Father” - there is no universal “vapor-hydro membrane”. There is a vapor barrier and vapor-permeable waterproofing. These are fundamentally different materials - with different purposes. Using these films in the wrong places and in the wrong places can lead to extremely tragic consequences for your home!

Formally, vapor barrier can be called vapor barrier, since it does not allow water or steam to pass through. But using this term is a recipe for making dangerous mistakes.

Therefore, once again, in frame construction, as well as in insulated roofs, two types of films are used

1. Paro insulating- which do not allow steam or water to pass through and are not membranes
2. Waterproofing steam permeable membranes (also called windproof, due to extremely low air permeability or super-diffusive)

These materials have different properties and using them for other purposes is almost guaranteed to lead to problems with your home.

Why do we need films in a roof or frame wall?

To understand this, you need to add a little theory.

Let me remind you that the purpose of this article is to explain “at a glance” what is happening, without delving into physical processes, partial pressure, molecular physics, etc. So I apologize in advance to those who had five in physics :) In addition, I’ll immediately make a reservation that in reality all the processes described below are much more complicated and have a lot of nuances. But the main thing for us is to understand the essence.

Nature has decreed that steam in a house always flows in the direction from warm to cold. Russia, a country with a cold climate, has an average heating period of 210-220 days out of 365 per year. If you add to it the days and nights when it’s colder outside than in the house, then even more.

Therefore, we can say that most of the time, the vector of steam movement is directed from inside the house, out. It doesn’t matter what we are talking about - walls, roofing or lower floors. Let's call all these things in one word - enclosing structures

In homogeneous structures, the problem usually does not arise. Because the vapor permeability of a homogeneous wall is the same. The steam easily passes through the wall and exits into the atmosphere. But as soon as we have a multilayer structure consisting of materials with different vapor permeability, everything becomes not so simple.

Moreover, if we talk about walls, then we are not necessarily talking about a frame wall. Any multilayer wall, even brick or aerated concrete with external insulation, will make you think.

You've probably heard that in a multilayer structure, the vapor permeability of the layers should increase as the steam moves.

What will happen then? Steam enters the structure and moves through it from layer to layer. At the same time, the vapor permeability of each subsequent layer is higher and higher. That is, from each subsequent layer, steam will come out faster than from previous.

Thus, we do not form an area where the saturation of steam reaches the value when, at a certain temperature, it can condense into real moisture (dew point).

In this case, we will not have any problems. The difficulty is that achieving this in a real situation is not easy.

Vapor barrier of roof and walls. Where is it installed and why is it needed?

Let's look at another situation. Steam has entered the structure and moves outward through the layers. I went through the first layer, the second... and then it turned out that the third layer was no longer as vapor-permeable as the previous one.

As a result, the steam that gets into the wall or roof does not have time to leave it, and a new “portion” is already supporting it from behind. As a result, before the third layer, the vapor concentration (more precisely, saturation) begins to increase.

Remember what I said before? Steam moves in the direction from warm to cold. Therefore, in the region of the third layer, when the steam saturation reaches a critical value, then at a certain temperature at this point, the steam will begin to condense into real water. That is, we got a “dew point” inside the wall. For example, at the border of the second and third layers.

This is exactly what people often observe when the outside of their house is covered with something that has poor vapor permeability, such as plywood or OSB or DSP, but there is no vapor barrier inside or it is made poorly. Rivers of condensation flow along the inside of the outer skin, and the cotton wool adjacent to it is all wet.

Steam easily enters the wall or roof and “slips through” the insulation, which usually has excellent vapor permeability. But then it “rests” on the outer material with poor permeation, and as a result, a dew point forms inside the wall, right in front of the obstacle to the steam path.

There are two ways out of this situation.

1. It takes a long and painful time to select materials for the “pie” so that the dew point under no circumstances ends up inside the wall. The task is possible, but difficult, given that in reality, the processes are not as simple as I am describing now.
2. Install a vapor barrier from the inside and make it as airtight as possible.

It is along the second path that they go in the west, making a hermetically sealed obstacle in the path of the steam. After all, if you don’t let steam into the wall at all, then it will never reach the saturation that will lead to condensation. And then you don’t have to rack your brains over what materials to use in the “pie” itself, from the point of view of the vapor permeability of the layers.

In other words, installing a vapor barrier guarantees the absence of condensation and dampness inside the wall. In this case, the vapor barrier is always installed on the inner, “warm” side of the wall or roof and is made as airtight as possible.

Moreover, the most popular material for this “they have” is ordinary polyethylene 200 microns. Which is inexpensive and has the highest resistance to vapor permeation, after aluminum foil. Foil would be even better, but it's hard to work with.

In addition, I pay special attention to the word hermetically sealed. In the west, when installing a vapor barrier, all joints of the film are carefully taped. All openings from communication wiring - pipes, wires through the vapor barrier - are also carefully sealed. The installation of overlapping vapor barriers, popular in Russia, without gluing the joints, can result in insufficient tightness and, as a result, you will get the same condensation.

Untaped joints and other potential holes in the vapor barrier can cause a wet wall or roof, even if there is a vapor barrier itself.

I would also like to note that the mode of operation of the house is important here. Summer country houses, in which you visit more or less regularly only from May to September, and maybe several times in the off-season, and the rest of the time the house is without heating, can forgive you some flaws in the vapor barrier.

But a house for permanent residence, with constant heating, does not forgive mistakes. The greater the difference between the external “minus” and the internal “plus” in the house, the more steam will flow into the external structures. And the greater the likelihood of getting condensation inside these structures. Moreover, the amount of condensate can ultimately amount to tens of liters.

Why do you need a waterproofing or superdiffusive vapor-permeable membrane?

I hope you understand why you need to make a vapor barrier from the inner wall - in order to prevent steam from entering the structure at all and to prevent conditions for its condensation into moisture. But the question arises: where and why to place the pair? permeable membrane and why it is impossible to install a vapor barrier instead of it.

Windproof, waterproofing membrane for walls

In American wall construction, a vapor-permeable membrane is always placed on the outside, on top of the OSB. Its main task, oddly enough, is not to protect the insulation, but to protect the OSB itself. The fact is that Americans make vinyl siding and other facade materials directly on top of the slabs, without any ventilation gaps or sheathing.

Naturally, with this approach, there is a possibility of external atmospheric moisture getting between the siding and the slab. How - this is the second question, heavy slanting rain, construction flaws in the area of ​​window openings, roof junctions, etc.

If water gets between the siding and the OSB, it can take a long time to dry there and the board can begin to rot. And OSB is a bad material in this regard. If it begins to rot, this process develops very quickly and goes deep into the slab, destroying it from the inside.

It is for this purpose that a membrane with one-way water permeability is installed in the first place. The membrane will not allow water, in case of a possible leak, to pass to the wall. But if somehow water gets under the film, due to one-sided penetration, it can come out.

Superdiffusion waterproofing membrane for roofing

Don't let the word superdiffusion confuse you. Essentially this is the same as in the previous case. The word superdiffusive only means that the film allows vapor to pass through very well (vapor diffusion)

In a pitched roof, for example, under metal tiles, there are usually no slabs of any kind, so a vapor-permeable membrane protects the insulation from both possible leaks from the outside and from blowing by the wind. By the way, this is why such membranes are also called windproof. That is, a vapor-permeable waterproofing membrane and a windproof membrane are, as a rule, one and the same.

In the roof, the membrane is also placed on the outside, in front of the ventilation gap.

In addition, pay attention to the instructions for the membrane. Since some membranes are placed close to the insulation, and some with a gap.

Why do you need to install a membrane outside and not a vapor barrier?

But why not install a vapor barrier? And make a completely vapor-tight wall on both sides? Theoretically, this is possible. But in practice, achieving absolute tightness of the vapor barrier is not so easy - there will still be damage from fasteners and construction flaws somewhere.

That is, some tiny amount of steam will still get into the walls. If there is a vapor-permeable membrane outside, then this minuscule has a chance of coming out of the wall. But if there is a vapor barrier, it will remain for a long time and sooner or later, it will reach a saturated state and again the dew point will appear inside the wall.

So - a windproof or waterproofing vapor-permeable membrane is always installed outside. That is, from the “cold” side of the wall or roof. If there are no slabs or other structural materials outside, the membrane is placed on top of the insulation. Otherwise, in the walls, it is placed on top of the enclosing materials, but under the façade finishing.

By the way, it is worth mentioning one more detail, for which films are used, and the wall or roof is made as airtight as possible. Because the best insulation is air. But only if he is absolutely motionless. The task of all insulation, be it polystyrene foam or mineral wool, is to ensure the stillness of the air inside it. Therefore, the lower the density of the insulation, the higher, as a rule, its thermal resistance - the material contains more still air and less material.

Using films on both sides of the wall reduces the likelihood of wind blowing through the insulation or convection air movements inside the insulation. Thus forcing the insulation to work as efficiently as possible.

What is the danger of the term vapor and waterproofing?

The danger lies precisely in the fact that under this term, as a rule, two materials are mixed, with different purposes and with different characteristics.

As a result, confusion begins. Vapor barrier can be installed on both sides. But the most common type of error, especially in roofs and the most terrible in terms of consequences, is when the result is the opposite - a vapor barrier is installed on the outside, and a vapor-permeable membrane is installed on the inside. That is, we calmly let steam into the structure, in unlimited quantities, but do not let it escape. This is where the situation shown in the popular video comes into play.

Conclusion: never mix the concepts of vapor-permeable waterproofing membranes and vapor barriers - this is the right road to construction mistakes that have very serious consequences.

How to avoid mistakes with films in a wall or roof?

Fear has big eyes; in fact, with films in a wall or roof, everything is quite simple. The main thing to remember is to follow the following rules:

1. In cold climates (most of Russia), vapor barrier is always installed only on the inner, “warm” side - be it a roof or a wall
2. Vapor barrier is always done as hermetically as possible - joints, openings of communication penetrations are sealed with tape. In this case, special adhesive tape is often required (usually with a butyl rubber adhesive base), since simple tape can come off over time.
3. The most effective and cheapest vapor barrier is 200 micron polyethylene film. Preferably, the “primary” one is transparent; it is easiest to glue the joints on it with ordinary double-sided tape. Purchasing “branded” vapor barriers is usually unjustified.
4. Vapor-permeable membranes (super-diffusion, windproof) are always installed on the outer, cold side of the structure.
5. Before installing the membrane, pay attention to the instructions for it, since some types of membranes are recommended to be installed with a gap from the material to which it is adjacent.
6. Instructions can be found on the manufacturer's website or on the roll of the film itself.
7. Usually, in order to avoid mistakes with “which side” to mount the film, manufacturers roll the roll so that when “rolling out” it outside By design, you automatically installed the correct side. For other uses, before starting installation, think about which side to place the material on.
8. When choosing a vapor-permeable membrane, you should give preference to high-quality “first and second echelon” manufacturers - Tyvek, Tekton, Delta, Corotop, Juta, Eltete, etc. As a rule, these are European and American brands. Membranes from third-tier manufacturers - Izospan, Nanoizol, Megaizol and other “isols”, “brains”, etc. as a rule, they are much inferior in quality, and most of them are of unknown Chinese origin with the brand of a trading company stamped on the film.

about the author

Hello. My name is Alexey, you may have met me as Porcupine or Gribnick on the Internet. I am the founder of the Finnish House, a project that has grown from a personal blog into a construction company whose goal is to build a high-quality and comfortable home for you and your children.