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Having decided to build a house from aerated concrete, he is faced with the need to make an armored belt (it is also called a seismic belt). Armopoyas is a monolithic reinforced concrete strip poured along the entire perimeter of the walls (for example, between the first and second floors). An armored belt is necessary to evenly distribute the load and connect the walls together. This reduces the risk of cracks due to uneven shrinkage of the building. The armored belt is also placed under the Mauerlat when installing the roof.

What you should pay attention to

You cannot attach timber (mauerlat) directly to aerated concrete using studs. If this is done, then over time, under the influence of wind load, the fastenings will become loose. In addition, for example, when installing attic floor with wooden floors, the armored belt will redistribute the point load from the timber to the entire wall.

An illustrative example is a forum member with the nickname mad-max. He did not have time to fill the armored belt under the Mauerlat, and the house went into “winter.” Already during the cold weather, the arched openings under the windows in the house cracked exactly in the middle. At first the cracks were small - about 1-2 mm, but gradually they began to increase and opened up to 4-5 mm. As a result, in the spring, a forum member poured a 40x25 cm armored belt, into which he installed anchors under the Mauerlat before pouring the concrete. This solved the problem with increasing cracks.

I would like to add to this that the foundation for my house is strip-monolithic, the soil is rocky, there was no movement of the foundation before I started building the house. I believe that the reason for the appearance of cracks was the lack of an armored belt under the Mauerlat.
So, an aerated concrete house, and even more so an aerated concrete house with two floors, needs an armored belt. When making it, you should remember this rule:

The main condition for the correct “operation” of the armored belt is its continuity, continuity and looping along the entire perimeter of the walls.

There are several options for installing an armored belt in an aerated concrete house. The production of an armored belt begins with the calculation of its cross-section and the choice of the type of formwork - removable or non-removable, as well as the “pie” of the entire structure.

From personal experience

I am building a house from 375 mm thick aerated concrete, with brick cladding and a ventilated gap of 35 mm. I don’t want to use special factory-made U-blocks for filling the armored belt. I saw the following diagram on our forum - on wall block installs a partition block 10 cm thick, then insulation (for example, EPS), and removable formwork is installed from inside the house. I also saw an option where the insulation is pressed close to the brickwork. With this scheme, an armored belt of greater width is obtained. Where should I stop?

I built a house from 40 cm thick aerated concrete. In my opinion, a ventilated gap of 35 mm between the wall and the cladding is not enough; it is optimal to leave a gap of 50 mm. As for the “pie” of the armored belt, if you look from the inside out, it was as follows:

• removable formwork;
• concrete 200 mm;
• EPPS 50 mm;
• partition block 150 mm.

The forum member recommends making formwork from sheet material. This can be plywood, OSB, DSP, etc., with obligatory reinforcement along the upper edge with an inch board. The formwork can be secured by screwing it with 75 mm long self-tapping screws directly into the aerated concrete block. The formwork is additionally fixed on top with a board (bar) or punched tape, which is screwed to the outer block.

In addition, the ventilated gap cannot be blocked, otherwise it loses its meaning. Because water vapor rushing out from the heated room will not be able to evaporate and will be “locked” inside - between the brickwork and the aerated concrete wall. Therefore, it is not recommended to build a house for permanent residence from aerated concrete with a vapor-tight (or low-vapour-permeable) cladding, with non-ventilated air gap or with brickwork located close to the wall.

Also, when installing an armored belt, you should not be guided by the rule: the wider it is, the better. This often leads to unjustified waste of materials and funds. The cross-section of the armored belt should not be selected by eye, but guided by calculation.

I once asked a person well versed in construction about the cross-section of an armored belt. He answered me that in many cases it is enough to fill an armored belt with a width of 10 cm and a height of 15 cm.
These figures do not cancel the preliminary calculation of the section of the armored belt, because it is made for a specific task.
According to forum members, because An armored belt is needed only for tying all the walls, so making it as thick as the entire wall is impractical. Therefore, the formwork “pie” (with a block thickness of 375 mm) can be as follows:

Outside we place a block 150 mm thick.
We insulate the armored belt to cut off the cold bridge. Instead of 50 mm thick polystyrene foam, you can use mineral wool increased density, which is used in the “wet facade” technology.
We install the reinforcement frame.
Inside, as permanent formwork, we use a 50 mm block cut from a whole block. The remaining space is filled with concrete.

The advantages of this type of formwork include the speed of its installation, because installing (with glue) a 50 mm thick block is many times faster than installing removable formwork. In addition, we get a flat and smooth surface from the inside, ready for finishing.

Experience shows that a block thickness of 50 mm (set on glue) is enough to withstand the load when pouring concrete, even if the mixture is poured from a concrete pump. To strengthen the structure, you can screw a tie from a 25x50 mm bar on top of the partition, thus connecting the internal and external blocks.

Another option for permanent formwork could be the method proposed by Dimastik25. To cut less from a whole block, you need to buy a pallet of blocks of three sizes:

Next, lay the blocks in the following order

1. On the outside we glue a block 150 mm wide.
2. We lay down a block sawn to 170 mm.
3. Inside the formwork we glue a block 50 mm thick.
4. We install insulation with a thickness of 50 mm.
5. Inside the box we place 4 reinforcement bars with a diameter of 12 mm. We tie it every 30 cm.
6. My house is 11x12 meters, it took 1.5 m3 of concrete to fill the armored belt. Moreover, to save money (workers from a neighboring construction site agreed to transport concrete for 5,000 rubles), they poured everything in buckets, because Renting a concrete pump would cost 15,000 rubles.

You can also make classic wooden formwork

I poured an armored belt and for this I made wooden boards. The formwork (on both sides) was screwed directly to the aerated concrete with long 135 mm self-tapping screws. From the outside wall, inside, I laid extruded polystyrene foam. The top of the formwork panels was fastened with bars.

As for the reinforcement (tape with a cross-section of 100x150mm), the following diagram can be recommended as a guide. We place 2 rods with a diameter of 12 mm at the top and bottom. For clamps we take reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. When knitting a frame, it is important to ensure protective layer concrete. To do this, leave at least 2.5 cm of free space between the formwork wall and the reinforcement, as well as above and below.

Summarizing

When filling armored belts, they are most often used following diagrams formwork devices:

“Pie” from outside to inside.

Board (removable formwork panel), for example - 150x25 mm, insulation 50 mm thick, reinforcement frame, board (removable formwork panel) - 150x25.
Aerated concrete block 100-150 mm thick, insulation 50 mm thick, reinforcement cage, aerated concrete block (fixed formwork) 50 mm thick.
Aerated concrete block 100-150 mm thick, insulation 50 mm thick, reinforcement frame, board - 150x25.

If the armored belt is poured without insulation, then subsequently (if you do not plan to make a “wet facade” using polystyrene foam) you will have to insulate the concrete from the outside. This can (due to the insulation protruding above the surface of the wall) complicate finishing.

Based on the above diagrams, you can come up with your own formwork “pies”. It should be remembered that when laying concrete floor slabs, it is necessary to mount two armored belts:

Strapping. Poured at the level of floor slabs.
Support. The floor slab directly rests on it.
It is also necessary to take into account one nuance.

The floor slab must rest on an aerated concrete block (for example, a U-block or a permanent formwork block) only through a damper gasket. As an “elastic” gasket, you can use a strip of waterproofing 50 mm wide and 3–4 mm thick. At the same time, the depth of support on the reinforced belt of a conventional PC slab is at least 120 mm, the recommended one is 150 mm. And when using prestressed extruded hollow core slabs, it is enough to maintain a support depth of 7-8 cm.

Source: forumhouse.ru

Video

Installation of an armored belt on an aerated concrete wall. Types, tips on how to make it, taking into account the type of foundation and the range of wall materials. The purpose and nature of the interaction of this structural element with a wall made of aerated blocks.

One of the advantages of aerated concrete wall blocks is the large size of the element, which makes the masonry vulnerable to uneven settlement of the foundation. In this case, not only the opening of the vertical seam can occur, but also the destruction of the blocks lying above, since aerated concrete resists bending and tensile loads very poorly.

Why do you need a reinforced belt?

This element of reinforcement of the wall mass absorbs the loads arising from uneven settlement of the building foundation. If the masonry is made of piece blocks connected to each other with thin adhesive seams, then the reinforced belt is made of monolithic concrete, reinforced with longitudinal and transverse reinforcement.

Concrete has very high compressive strength, and reinforcement has excellent tensile strength. Reinforced concrete is able to withstand enormous bending loads without deformations exceeding the norm. The wall located above the reinforced belt experiences loads corresponding to minor deformations of the belt, which do not lead to the appearance of cracks and destruction.

How to do it on lightweight concrete blocks

The construction of a belt reinforced with reinforcement on the walls, in which the piece stone is bound with a thick layer of mortar, is quite obvious. But aerated concrete wall it is placed on a thin adhesive layer, into which it is impossible to embed thick reinforcement. Therefore, the reinforced belt is made in the form of a separate structural element, constituting a monolithic section of the wall made of blocks.
A problem arises with a significant difference in the heat transfer gradient between concrete and aerated block, due to which the monolithic belt will become not just a bridge, but a cold gate.

An important part of the armored belt on aerated concrete is the thermal insulation strapping on the outside, which leads to a reduction in the width of the element. Manufacturers of aerated blocks offer box-shaped elements designed specifically for this purpose, although you can get by using traditional heat-insulating materials, for example:

• sheet expanded polystyrene;
• polyurethane foam;
• hard basalt or stone wool.

The minimum thickness of the insulation should be ten centimeters, with the lowest thermal conductivity. Thus, the width of the belt will be equal to the thickness of the wall minus the insulation.

Where is continuous reinforcement of aerated concrete walls made?

The most critical sections of the wall within the dimensions of one floor are the first row of blocks and the last, on which the floor or roofing elements are laid. A wall made of aerated concrete must have at least two reinforced belts, if a decision is made to install them, as well as lighter structural reinforcement of the walls. The height of the section of the belt is taken depending on its design and ground conditions.

Using standard box-shaped elements, the height of the belt will be equal to their depth; in other cases, it must be taken into account that the greater the height of the element’s section, the greater the bending loads it can withstand without deformation. For example, the lower reinforced belt on aerated concrete on a prefabricated strip foundation can be made higher, twenty to thirty centimeters, and the upper belt, which mainly distributes the loads from the floor or roof elements, can have a minimum thickness sufficient for laying one layer of reinforcement.

If the base for an aerated concrete box is a monolithic reinforced concrete slab, a shallow foundation with upper and lower reinforcement, a reinforced concrete pile cap or a monolithic strip with a reinforcement frame in the upper section, then it is necessary to arrange bottom belt There is no wall reinforcement. It is enough to reinforce the upper section under the ceiling of the floor.

The construction of a monolithic concrete beam that is not a continuous contour, for example, in the middle section of a wall, broken by window and doorways, also doesn't make sense. In these places, it is necessary to carry out structural reinforcement of the masonry using a mesh, special frames for laying in a thin layer of mortar, or recessing the reinforcement into the cut grooves of aerated blocks. Such reinforcement does not create a continuous belt, but significantly increases the resistance of the masonry to local loads and local deformations.

Installation of armored belt on aerated concrete

The structure is made of concrete grade M-200 and higher and reinforcing bars of a periodic profile, with a diameter of 12 millimeters. A frame is assembled from them, connected by transverse reinforcement with a diameter of 4–6 millimeters. The frame consists of an upper and lower row of rods with a height gap of 10–15 centimeters. They are placed in the same plane with a step in the transverse direction of about ten centimeters. The rods are joined along their length overlapping with knitting wire with an overlap of about fifteen centimeters, and they are also fastened with it to the elements of transverse reinforcement.

The belt can be made from one layer of reinforcement, without assembling a spatial frame, but only by connecting the longitudinal reinforcement rods with the transverse ones. In places where the wall contour turns and breaks, the rods overlap and are tied at the points of intersection.

The frame is placed in the formwork or cavity of the box block. In this case, it is necessary to ensure a gap between the outer edge of any reinforcing element and the inner edge of the cavity or formwork. It must be at least three to five centimeters to create a protective layer of concrete that prevents corrosion of the reinforcement. To facilitate this task, special plastic elements in the form of support tables and stars will help, allowing you to fix the rods at the required distance from the formwork. They can be purchased from all suppliers involved in the sale of concreting materials.

Having installed a reinforcement frame in the formwork, and, if necessary, a heat-insulating façade layer, fill it with concrete, carefully compacting it. The use of a vibrating mace is limited to the insignificant depth of the armored belt on aerated concrete. The required embedded parts can be installed in it, for example, for attaching a Mauerlat or roof. The surface of the laid material is leveled using a rule and a trowel.

After gaining the initial strength of concrete within two to three days, you can continue the started cycle of work. After about a week, the formwork can be removed. In hot weather, concrete is spilled with water several times and protected with polyethylene; in frosty conditions, it is protected from freezing.

In a similar way, monolithic lintels are made over window and door openings, with the only difference that instead of the underlying layer of masonry, the bottom of the formwork is used, fixed in the design position.

Its dimensions are determined by the length and width of the wall. For single-layer masonry 30 cm optimal thickness armored belt for aerated concrete is 25 cm. To increase the thermal conductivity of the house and as additional protection from the cold, it is recommended to lay insulation on top of it and lay out another layer of masonry.

In order to strengthen the structure, the height of the armored belt is equalized with its thickness. Equilateral elements exhibit greater wear resistance than rectangular ones. The tape structure, which follows the contours of the walls along the perimeter, makes the building more reliable and resistant to atmospheric and mechanical influences. This applies to both a one-story house and a multi-story building.

There are several types of belts:

• grillage– top pile foundation;
• armored belt on aerated concrete, which serves as the boundary between the foundation and the wall (basement);
• seismic belt connecting the floors of the house along the upper wall row;
for roof unloading.

Each of them has its own specific features for carrying out construction work in accordance with the instructions.

What functions does it perform?

Armopoyas in construction industry used to increase the resistance of the load-bearing walls of the house to external and internal influences. It promotes connection individual parts building into an integral structure, performing the following functions:

The armored belt on aerated concrete satisfies the building's need for a load-bearing structure. It allows the material to safely tolerate point loads of various types, which prevents cracking and destruction of individual block elements and maintains the strength of the walls.

Formwork belt made using aerated concrete contributes to formation smooth surface belt due to its even distribution. Its versatility contributes to high-quality results and effective implementation construction work.

Pros and cons of use

The belt installation technology has certain advantages and disadvantages. First of all, the quality of the material and the service life are taken into account.

The advantages of the armored belt on aerated concrete:

• low cost price;
• ease of installation;
• frost resistance, fire resistance;
• stable resistance to deformation;
• uniform load distribution on the structure of the house;
• long service life.

The construction of a building where aerated concrete is used as the main material will cost three times less than the construction of a brick house. Aerated concrete blocks lightweight, resistant to climatic conditions and have good frost resistance due to its greater thickness than brick. The useful life of the housing will be at least one hundred years.

Flaws:

• the need for additional waterproofing of the surface to prevent its decompaction and destruction;
• waterproofing costs and thermal insulation.

Despite the additional costs, you can’t do without an armored belt. Compared to the advantages of installing it, the disadvantages do not seem so significant.

Step-by-step instruction

An armored belt on aerated concrete does not require any special device technology. It consists of several sequential operations:

1. installation reinforcement frame;
2. assembly and installation of formwork;
3. filling concrete.

The specifics of operation can only be influenced by the area where the belt is located, but in general, the instructions for installing it have a standard form.

Manufacturing of formwork

When you cannot do without an armored belt, the process of assembling and installing a frame under it from boards and their scraps begins. This method is quite simple:

This design is able to withstand the mass of concrete when it is poured and not suffer. If the frame is needed for floor beams, then it is mounted along outer surface walls, and the height is equal to 20-40 cm. To be able to carefully disguise the insulation if it is necessary to use it, you can move the formwork deep into the walls. It is convenient to fill the formed niche with heat-insulating material.

Over time, cracks appear on the foundation and walls of a building built on soft soils. The formation of defects is associated with the ability of soils to deform under the weight of the structure during periods of precipitation (wetting), freezing and thawing. In this case, the subsidence of the building may be uneven. How to protect walls and its foundation from cracks due to soil deformation under the influence of adverse events? An experienced builder will answer that you need a reliable monolithic belt in the formwork: what it is, why it is used, and how it is organized.

If self-production The formwork structure is difficult; its assembly and installation in Moscow can be ordered from our company. We offer affordable prices and a wide selection of systems from leading manufacturers.

What is a belt in formwork?

A monolithic belt is a reinforced concrete beam that is installed above the foundation and on masonry walls. The solidity of the element is guaranteed by the installation of a temporary formwork system - a structure of panels and fixing elements for pouring liquid concrete mortar, in which it freezes. The formwork makes it possible to produce a beam that is solid and closed along its entire length without connecting seams. This feature of the belt in the formwork is extremely important for increasing the performance characteristics of the structure, and therefore a lot of attention and effort is paid to the organization of the monolithic beam.

A solid monolithic belt is formed in the formwork from the following building materials:

• liquid concrete: sand, water, additives, cement, etc.;
• construction reinforcement - it is recommended to use steel rods with a diameter of 12 mm;
• wire for tying reinforcement - the technology of tying rods for reinforced concrete products must be strictly followed.

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is organized under the load-bearing elements of the building. If we are talking about a small private house, then the beam is organized around the perimeter of the external walls. But if the project provides internal partitions, which will serve as a support for the floor slabs, then a solid-monolithic beam is laid for them as well.

What is the purpose of the belt?

• combining the load-bearing parts of the building into a single structure;
• uniform distribution of loads on load-bearing elements;
• horizontal alignment of walls, which facilitates and improves the quality of further installation and construction work;
• base for future floors (necessarily used in multi-storey buildings);
• gives the building monolithic strength and durability.

The formation of a closed monolith-belt is mandatory if the walls are erected from hollow building materials, for example, cinder block, shell rock, foam concrete or aerated concrete. According to construction GOSTs and SNiP standards, it is also necessary when building a house in an area with increased seismic activity. Also, multi-storey residential buildings cannot be built without a monolithic beam.

Characteristics of a monolithic closed belt

It is extremely difficult to install belts without formwork in accordance with the standards, since it is necessary to maintain the following parameters at the concrete pouring stage:

• height of the reinforced concrete element - at least 20 cm;
• the width is strictly equal to the width of the foundation, wall;
• evenness and smoothness of the surfaces of the reinforced concrete belt;
• horizontal evenness of the element;
• no seams or defects on surfaces.

The formwork system must be stable and non-deformable under concrete pressure. Between its components there should not be large gaps. Building codes allow gaps of no more than 2 mm. The forming temporary structure must be rigid and resistant to external loads. Therefore, for its organization, materials are selected that can withstand weather, climatic, and mechanical loads for a long time. But the most important thing is moisture. The quality with which the formwork for the monolithic belt was assembled and installed determines the physical and technical characteristics of the reinforced concrete element.

Recommended building materials for installing reinforced concrete belt formwork

In private housing construction, pine or coniferous boards 40 mm thick are used to construct formwork systems. But when assembling the forming system for a monolithic beam, you need to take care of the evenness of the external and internal surfaces RC element. Therefore, it is better to make formwork for the belt from sheets of laminated plywood - they are moisture resistant, do not delaminate, and can be used later on the farm. An alternative option could be a chipboard board with a sanded surface. It is profitable to buy sheets with dimensions of 2.5 m × 1.25 m - by cutting in half, we get two even formwork panels measuring 2.5 m × 0.62 m with perfectly smooth surfaces.

To assemble the system forming a monolithic belt you will also need:

• slats and stops measuring 50 mm×50 mm;
• screws and drill;
• connecting elements for opposite panels - reinforcement or steel rod of at least 12 mm in diameter (length 1.5-2 cm greater than the width of the formwork);
• frame made of reinforcement (you can use a welded section - an analogue of a knitted one);
• concrete grade M250.

The correct way to fill the liquid solution is to use a deep vibrator. It will ensure compaction of the mixture, which means the quality of the reinforced concrete monolith. With a belt thickness of 300 mm or more, the steel rods tightening the panels are laid in two tiers - the lower one strictly under the upper one. If slabs 2.5 m long are chosen to organize the walls of the shield, then you will need to install at least 6 tension rods. When using conventional chipboards or boards, we recommend additional waterproofing. Cover the building material (including slats and supports), for example, with waste motor oil. This will ensure the resistance of the formwork elements to weather loads.

The construction of monolithic belts is widespread in construction practice. This is a mandatory element of rigidity during the construction of buildings of any purpose, configuration and number of storeys.

The main purpose of the belts is to create, as experts say, hard drives.

They seem to encircle prefabricated structural elements, giving them additional strength and rigidity when exposed to loads on the structural elements.

They are a continuous monolithic reinforced concrete belt, which is arranged:

• On strip foundations (pillows and blocks of basement walls);
• Armored belt on the walls;
• Reinforced belt for floor slabs and coverings;
• Under the mauerlats of hipped roofs.

When to install monolithic belts

The installation of an armored belt is provided in the following cases:

1. In the presence of weak (subsidence) soils at the base of buildings and structures.
2. At increased loads on the base and foundations (for example, in cases of construction of buildings with increased number of storeys).
3. During construction in seismic areas.
4. In some other cases. For example, if you have to support box-type prefabricated reinforced concrete slabs on wall material and weld them to embedded elements.

In these cases, embedded parts are installed in reinforced concrete belts placed on top of the walls. The belt itself redistributes the load from the floor slabs onto the walls more evenly.

There are two types of belts:

• Horizontal
• Vertical

The installation of monolithic belts of the vertical type is carried out mainly in areas with increased seismic activity, along with horizontal ones. The most widespread are horizontal belts.

Belt technology

All technological process consists of three stages:

1. Formwork installation.
2. Installation of reinforcement cages.
3. Pouring concrete into the formwork of the structure.

Let's get acquainted with each point in more detail.

Formwork for monolithic belts

The design of the formwork must ensure its geometric immutability and rigidity throughout the entire process of use. It must be installed in accordance with the work plan.

Installation of formwork

When installing belts along the entire thickness of the walls, the formwork is first installed and secured from the outside as well as the inside. It can be made of wooden panels, metal inventory elements (reusable), moisture-resistant plywood, and other materials.

There are examples, if this is provided for by the project, when its role is played by thin walls made of brick or aerated concrete. The space between them is reinforced, filled with concrete mixture, and the walls themselves remain in the body of the structure.

The formwork is secured with nails using welding. No other mounting methods found wide application. Since fasteners have to be constantly cleaned of any concrete mixture that gets on them.

Under the pressure of the concrete mass, in case of improper fastening, the panels can bend or move. This is fraught with the formation of uneven surfaces of the structure, which, after disassembling the panels, have to be cut down, hewn, and sometimes plastered.

Reinforcement of monolithic belts

Let's consider what kind of reinforcement is used for the armored belt. Reinforcement should be carried out with welded frames and meshes manufactured in factories. The use and installation of products in construction conditions is permissible for additional elements or sections of connection between frames and meshes.

The construction of monolithic belts involves placing reinforcement cages inside the formwork. They are spatial blanks of 4 or 6 bars of longitudinal reinforcement of a periodic profile (class A - III).

The diameter is most often 12-14mm (calculated and specified by the project), united by closed clamps made of smooth reinforcement with a diameter of 4-6mm with a pitch of 200-300mm.

In some versions, the diameter of the longitudinal rods can be large (specified by the project). For example, if a monolithic belt along the walls is made above the opening and is at the same time a lintel above a window or door.

Reinforcing bars are joined along their length by electric welding or knitting. When used, the most common fittings are class A – III. The overlap of the rods at the joints of the longitudinal reinforcement when joining them by electric welding must be at least ten diameters of the rods being joined.

Installation of fittings

When connecting rods with knitting wire, the length of the overlap should be at least fifty times the diameter of the joined rods.
Joints should not be placed at corners of turns, minimum distance from the junction to the corner of rotation there must be at least one meter.

When making spatial frames and assigning their dimensions, it is necessary to adhere to the rule of the so-called protective concrete layer.

This means that the distance from the inner edge of the shield to the nearest frame rod should not be less than 25 mm. This is necessary so that the concrete mixture completely covers the reinforcement when laying. The installation of monolithic belts is a responsible job that requires compliance with all tolerances during the execution of work.

The same gaps are provided at the bottom and top of the longitudinal rods of the frames. Before laying on the reinforcement, it is necessary to secure gaskets (crackers from cement mortar). They provide a standard gap between the formwork and the reinforcement to form a protective layer.

A log is kept to monitor electric welding work at the construction site. welding work. Acceptance of the laid reinforcement into the structure is formalized. When the reinforcement is completed and accepted according to the act, you can begin concreting.

Concreting of monolithic belts

It is advisable to lay the concrete mixture over the entire volume at once. If this cannot be done, then the number of breaks should be minimal.

In this case, in places where concreting is interrupted, it is necessary to construct a seam, which is a strictly vertical cut of concrete. Concreting joints must not be made above openings and at a distance of less than 300 mm from the edge of the opening.

Dimensions cross section belts are assigned by the project. The thickness of the monolithic belt is usually equal to the width (thickness) of the wall. The height is taken by calculation and ranges from 150mm or more.

The grade of concrete is specified by the project, but, as a rule, it is not lower than grade M-200. The top of the belt should be at the same mark in all places. For this purpose, special marks are applied to the formwork using a level or level.

The construction of monolithic belts in some cases involves the installation of embedded elements when this is provided for in the project.

For example, arranging a monolithic belt under the Mauerlat. The Mauerlat of a hip roof must be firmly connected to the walls so that a powerful wind does not throw the roof off the building.

Work completed

Concrete must be vibrated (compacted) during the laying process; the upper edge of the concrete is aligned with the marks under the mark. The duration of vibration should ensure good compaction of the concrete mass.

The main indicators of this:

• Stopping its precipitation;
• The appearance of cement laitance on the surface;
• The end of air bubbles.

Where the density of the reinforcement does not allow normal compaction of the concrete mass with vibrators, compaction is carried out by bayoneting. When concreting, it is necessary to fill out a concrete work log. It is checked, like the reinforcement log, by a representative of the customer.

Placed concrete should be properly monitored and maintained. Suitable temperature and humidity conditions come down to a number of measures. This means watering it with water, covering it with sawdust, shields, sand, which should be kept moist.

The formwork is removed after the concrete mixture reaches strength, guaranteeing the safety of surfaces and corner edges. It is usually removed after 2-3 days, depending on weather conditions (air temperature, humidity).

When accepting completed work, you should check the structure’s compliance with the working drawings, the correct location in plan and height.

Reinforcement products must have certificates of conformity. Concrete laid into the case - the results of laboratory tests of the cubes for strength, passports.

The construction of monolithic belts is necessary to give the structure rigidity and strength. As well as the uniform redistribution of loads on the underlying structures of the building. I suggest short video on this topic.

Armored belt or brickwork, which is better? Board formwork

A reinforced belt (armopoyas) is a closed reinforced structure, repeating the outline of the building walls and blocking their deformation as a result of load redistribution. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid exposure to adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil settles, etc. The reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armored belt acquires particular relevance when constructing houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

Main functions of the armored belt

• strengthening walls;

Types of reinforced belts

Grillage.

Grillage

Base armored belt

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

So is it worth the risk and instead of making a full-fledged armored belt from concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt from brick? In our opinion - no! Brick masonry is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even if it is reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will lead to

kupildoma.ru

Brick armored belt – PROBrick

A reinforced belt (reinforced belt) is a closed reinforced structure that follows the outline of the building walls and blocks their deformation as a result of load redistribution. That is, the armored belt allows you to avoid the formation of cracks from exposure to adverse weather conditions, when the house shrinks, soil subsidence, etc. The reinforcement can be made of reinforced concrete or brick. The armored belt acquires particular relevance when constructing houses from building materials that are not resistant to deformation.

Brick armored belt- This is ordinary masonry, reinforced with reinforcement. At first glance, this approach is simpler than pouring a full-fledged monolithic reinforced concrete belt with reinforcement. However, is this approach sufficient? Will such reinforced masonry replace a full-fledged armored belt? First, let's figure out what types of arm belts there are and what functions are assigned to them.

Main functions of the armored belt

• strengthening walls;
• ensures uniform distribution of loads;
• prevents the formation of cracks;
• promotes leveling of brickwork;
• maintaining the integrity of the structure during shrinkage of the house.

Types of reinforced belts

It is customary to distinguish 4 types of reinforced belts.

Grillage.

Grillage- this is the lower, sub-foundation armored belt, which is the key to the strength of the entire building. In addition, it can connect the piles of columnar and pile foundations. The height of the grillage is from 30 to 50 cm, the width is 70 - 120 cm. For production, reinforcement with a thickness of 12 - 14 mm is used. For greater reliability and durability, concrete should cover the reinforcement frame by 5 cm on each side.

Base armored belt

It is laid along the entire perimeter of the external walls. If the ceiling is slabs, it is recommended to do it on all load-bearing walls. The main function of the base reinforced belt is to distribute loads on the foundation. Mesh reinforcement with a height of 20 - 40 cm is used;

Interfloor (unloading) belt

It is constructed to strengthen and tighten the walls, as well as to prevent the formation of cracks. In addition, it absorbs and distributes the load of the entire structure. Lay on everything load-bearing walls;

Armobelt under the Mauerlat

Armopoyas under the Mauerlat - performs a number of useful functions: it allows you to securely fasten the Mauerlat itself, distributes the load from the roof, gables, rafter system, aligns the horizontal of the entire structure being built. It is mounted along the perimeter of external walls, in some cases (with inclined rafters) - on the middle load-bearing wall. When creating a reinforcement frame, the studs are placed above it. A thread is made at the end of the rods, and corresponding holes are made in the Mauerlat. After the poured concrete has hardened and gained strength, a Mauerlat is installed on the studs and secured with bolts.

When making an armored belt special requirements requirements for the quality of concrete. It is recommended to use cement grade no lower than M200. The concrete mixture is poured at once, which will allow it to harden evenly and set well. For higher strength, concrete is periodically wetted.

Is it worth making an armored belt out of brick?

So is it worth the risk and instead of making a full-fledged armored belt from concrete and reinforcement, make an armored belt from brick? In our opinion - no! Brick masonry is only slightly stronger than block masonry, even if it is reinforced. Two or three rows of bricks will not be able to evenly distribute the entire load along the walls. This will lead to the fact that some fragments and sections of the brickwork will experience increased pressure compared to the rest of the wall, and this is dangerous due to the appearance of cracks and even complete destruction of the wall. Therefore, it would be right not to take risks and make full reinforcement with an armored belt made of reinforced concrete.

Read also:

www.kirpich.nnov.ru

Armobelt. What is it and how to do it

What is an armored belt?

A reinforced belt, also known as a monolithic belt or seismic belt, is a special design designed to solve two problems. First, distribute the load from what will be on top to what will be below. And, secondly, to connect the entire plane on which it is located into a single whole. Both a monolithic concrete armored belt and a reinforced brick one cope with load distribution. Both of them do an excellent job of distributing the load, say, from floor slabs to walls. If the task is also to connect the walls into a single whole, for example, from the bursting load of the roof rafters on the walls of the house, then a reinforced concrete belt is needed.

How to make an armored belt with your own hands

Now that we’ve figured out what an armored belt is, let’s find out how to make it with your own hands. WITH brick armored belt it's simple. Typically, masonry is made of solid red brick of minimum grade M100 in several rows with reinforcement with masonry mesh. You can also reinforce the masonry with reinforcement with a diameter of 6-8 mm. With a concrete, monolithic armored belt, the situation is more complicated.

First you need to set up the formwork. This can be either wooden formwork or “tray” or permanent formwork, if we are talking about an armored belt on aerated concrete or foam concrete blocks. You can use factory U-blocks or make your own trays. To do this, it is not necessary to cut a U-block from a regular gas block. It is enough to make masonry from a thin gas block on the outside and inside. The space between these blocks can be insulated with extruded polystyrene.

After you have made the formwork, a reinforcement frame is placed inside the tray.

Sufficient reinforcement for an armored belt measuring 200 by 200 mm is a frame of 4 threads of reinforcement with a diameter of 12 mm (two on top and bottom), fastened with transverse clamps with a diameter of 6-8 mm every 30-50 cm.

The standard overlap of reinforcement should be 30-40 diameters. That is, if you are laying 12 mm reinforcement, then when building it up, you need to make an overlap of about 40 cm.

In the corners, reinforcement is necessary fold over so that the corner is connected by solid reinforcement.

It is advisable to place the frame made of reinforcement on plastic clamps of the thickness of the protective layer of concrete. And put the clamps on the vertical clamps. If there are no factory fixings for the protective layer, you can use pieces of stone, brick, etc.

Pins under the Mauerlat or pieces of reinforcement are attached to the reinforcement frame for subsequent fixation of the floor slabs.

Now you can proceed directly to pouring the reinforced belt with concrete.

If you will be pouring purchased concrete, choose the M200-M250 brand. This grade of strength is absolutely enough for private construction.

If you plan to prepare concrete for pouring the armored belt yourself, then use the universal recipe for the proportions of concrete for the armored belt: 1 part 500 grade cement, 2 parts sand, 4 parts crushed stone.

You can also use one of our construction calculators to calculate the composition of concrete. Don't forget to add concrete plasticizer to the mix. This will make the filling more convenient for you, and the resulting armored belt more durable.

After pouring, cover the armored belt with film to prevent sudden drying. For the same purpose, wet the concrete for the first 2-3 days.

The armored belt will be ready for loading in a week. Full maturation of concrete will be completed 28 days after pouring.

The most frequently asked questions on the topic of reinforced belts.

In what cases is an armored belt needed?

A monolithic reinforced concrete belt is required:

• on a block foundation
• on walls made of aerated concrete, foam blocks, etc. under hollow slabs and wooden beams overlaps (to prevent squeezing). Here the armored belt can be brick
• under the Mauerlat on the roof, the design of which assumes a spacer load on this same Mauerlat

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in winter, in cold weather?

Filling the armored belt into winter time the occupation is dubious. However, if you really need to fill it in the cold season, take all measures to protect the concrete. Add special antifreeze additives into concrete. Use as little water as possible to mix concrete. After pouring, be sure to cover the armored belt to protect from the cold. For example, sawdust. In sub-zero temperatures, use a special heating cable. It is sold in any construction supermarket.

What is the minimum thickness, height, width, size of the armored belt?

The minimum size of the armored belt is 150 by 150 mm. But not less than the width of the support of the slabs or floor beams.

The armored belt freezes, what should I do?

If you or your workers forgot to insulate the armored belt before pouring, then you will have to insulate it now. The armored belt is insulated from the outside.

Condensation on the armored belt. The armored belt is sweating. What to do?

Insulate. Other options: increase the room temperature, reduce the room humidity.

Is it possible to fill the armored belt in parts?

Can. To do this, make a bevel at the junction. And the concrete doesn't have to be smooth.

Video on the topic of reinforced belt

o-remonte.com

Do-it-yourself armored belt for a brick wall

Do-it-yourself armored belt for a wall made of aerated concrete or brick

During the process of building a house, at certain stages questions may arise such as: does it make sense to make a reinforced belt, how many similar belts should the structure have, how to make it correctly and what materials are best used for this?

An armored belt is a monolithic closed reinforced concrete strip that follows the contour of the walls.

List of items that are needed:

• concrete grade 200;
• rods;
• excavator;
• sand or granulated slag;
• fittings;
• wire.

What is an armored belt for and where is it installed?

Grillage – top part pile foundation, distributing the load on the load-bearing elements of the building.

First of all, you need to understand what a reinforced belt is and why it needs to be made. The reinforced belt is a layer of reinforced concrete, which is located along all the external walls of the building completely along the entire perimeter. Its task is to increase the strength of load-bearing external walls made of aerated concrete or brick and maintain integrity during the process of soil subsidence. During construction, several such belts should be used.

The first reinforced belt is also called a grillage. In the process of its manufacture, it is necessary to pour concrete into a trench that was dug under

stroy-bloks.ru

How to make an armored belt - types of belts and methods of filling them (+ diagrams)

They call it an armored belt reinforced concrete structure, which is designed to strengthen the walls of the house. This is necessary to protect the walls from loads arising under the influence of external/internal factors. External factors include wind exposure, terrain slope/hilliness, floating soil and seismic activity of the earth. The list of internal factors includes all household construction devices used in interior decoration Houses. If you make an armored belt incorrectly, then due to these phenomena the walls will simply crack, and what’s even worse, they will corrode. In view of this, it is very important to be aware of how to make an armored belt. The types, purpose and method of installation of the armored belt will be discussed in this article.

Kinds

There are 4 types of armored belt:

• grillage;
• basement;
• interfloor;
• under the Mauerlat.

Tools and materials

Before starting work, you should prepare the following tools/materials:

1. Fittings.
2. Cement.
3. Sand.
4. Crushed stone.
5. Wire for tying reinforcement.
6. Boards.
7. Self-tapping screws.
8. Brick.
9. Shovel.
10. Concrete mixer.
11. Crowbar/crowbar.
12. Welding machine.

To ensure that all the work you perform is done with high quality, we suggest that you familiarize yourself with the techniques for manufacturing reinforced mesh/framework and formwork.

Manufacturing of reinforcing mesh/frame

In order for the reinforced belt to be of high quality, and therefore the house to be reliable, you need to know how to properly make the reinforced mesh/frame. The connection of the reinforcement bars to each other is carried out using a knitting wire, and not a welding seam. This is due to the fact that during welding, the area near the seam being made overheats, which leads to a weakening of the strength of the reinforcement. But you can’t do without welding seams when making mesh. The middle and ends of the frame are welded, while the remaining connecting nodes are tied together.

Laid frame in armored belt

The rods are fastened to fix the reinforcement in the required position when pouring concrete. For these purposes, thin wire is used; the strength of the mesh/frame does not depend on it.

For the manufacture of armored belts, only ribbed rods are used. Concrete clings to the ribs, which helps to increase the load-bearing capacity of the structure. Such a belt can work in tension.

To make a frame, take 2 wires 12 mm thick and 6 m long, while for transverse reinforcement you will need rods 10 mm thick. The transverse reinforcement should be welded in the center and edges. The rest of the rods are simply knitted. After making two meshes, hang them so that a gap is formed. Weld them from the edges and in the center. This way you will have a frame. There is no need to weld the frames to make the belt. They are laid with an overlap of 0.2–0.3 m.

Formwork

Installation and fastening of formwork is carried out using several methods. To install wooden panels, you need to pass anchors through them and install plugs on them using electric welding. The purpose of these actions is to fix the formwork in such a way that it is not squeezed out under the weight of the concrete.

To secure the formwork when pouring an interfloor armored belt, a simpler method is often used. A screw with a diameter of 6 mm and a length of 10 cm should be fixed to the bottom of the shield. The distance between them is 0.7 m. So, attach the wooden shield to the wall, drill a hole through it, insert a mushroom into it and drive the screw.

The hole in the shield should be slightly larger than 6 mm in diameter. This is necessary in order to easily install the fungus.

Wooden formwork

The upper part of the formwork is also fixed quick installation. But in this case, you should screw in a self-tapping screw, not a screw. So, make a hole in the face brick. Then drive the reinforcement into it. If the brick is solid, then the situation is simpler - just drive a nail/reinforcement into the vertical seam. Tighten the self-tapping screw and reinforcement with binding wire. The distance between fastening elements is 1–1.2 m. Such fastening is capable of withstanding the upcoming loads.

After the armored belt has hardened, the formwork can be removed using a crowbar/nail puller. In the warm season, concrete sets within a day. In this case, the dismantling of the formwork can be carried out the next day. During the cold season, this procedure is carried out a few days later.

Grillage

Initially, you should determine the depth of the foundation. This parameter depends on the type of soil, the depth of its freezing, as well as the depth of groundwater. Then you should dig a trench around the perimeter of the future house. This can be done manually, which is long and tedious, or with the help of an excavator, which is quick and efficient, but entails additional costs.

After special equipment is used, the bottom and walls of the trench should be leveled to solid ground. The surface should be as hard and smooth as possible.

Now you need to form a sand cushion, the height of which should be 50–100 mm. If it is necessary to backfill sand more than 100 mm, it must be mixed with crushed stone. This activity may be necessary to level the bottom of the trench. Another way to level the bottom is to pour concrete.

Making a frame for a grillage

After backfilling sand cushion, it needs to be compacted. To complete the task faster, pour water on the sand.

Then the reinforcement should be laid. During the construction process, under normal conditions, you need to use reinforcement of 4–5 cores, the diameter of each rod should be 10–12 mm. It is important that when pouring the grillage for the foundation, the reinforcement does not touch the base. It must be recessed in concrete. Thus, the metal will be protected from corrosion. To achieve this, the reinforcing mesh should be raised above the sand cushion, placing brick halves under it.

Strip foundation grillage

If you are building a house on heaving soil or where the groundwater level is high, then the grillage should be made more durable. To do this, instead of reinforcing mesh, you should use a reinforcement cage. He imagines 2 meshes consisting of 4 wires with a diameter of 12 mm. They should be laid below and above the armored belt. Granular slag is used as a base instead of a sand cushion. Its advantage over sand is that over time, granulated slag turns into concrete.

To make the mesh, a knitting wire is used rather than a welding seam.

For the grillage, M200 concrete should be used. To ensure that the filling height corresponds to the specified value, install a beacon in the trench - a metal peg equal in length to the height of the grillage. It will serve as your guide.

Base armored belt

Before erecting walls, a basement reinforced belt should be poured onto the foundation. It must be poured along the perimeter of the building along the external walls, but this cannot be done along the internal load-bearing walls. The base armored belt serves as additional reinforcement of the structure. If you have filled the grillage with high quality, then the plinth belt can be made less durable. The height of the armored belt is 20–40 cm, concrete M200 and higher is used. The thickness of two-core reinforcing bars is 10–12 mm. The reinforcement is laid in one layer.

If you need to strengthen the base belt, then use reinforcement of greater thickness or install more conductors. Another option is to lay the reinforced mesh in 2 layers.

Formwork for base armored belt

The thickness of the basement and external walls is the same. It ranges from 510 to 610 mm. When pouring the base armored belt, you can do without formwork, replacing it with brickwork. To do this, you need to make half-brick masonry on both sides of the wall. You can fill the resulting void with concrete after placing reinforcement in it.

In the absence of a grillage, it is useless to make a base armored belt. Some craftsmen, having decided to save on the grillage, strengthen the base belt, using reinforcement of a larger diameter, which supposedly improves the load-bearing capacity of the house. In fact, such a decision is unreasonable.

The grillage is the foundation of the house, and the plinth belt is an addition or strengthening of the load-bearing capabilities of the reinforced belt for the foundation. The joint work of the grillage and the plinth belt guarantees a reliable foundation even on heaving soils and with a high level of groundwater.

Interfloor

An armored belt must also be made between the wall and the floor slabs. It is poured along external walls with a height of 0.2 to 0.4 m. Interfloor armored belt allows you to save on door/window lintels. They can be made small and with a minimum of reinforcement. Thus, the load on the structure will be distributed evenly.

If an armored belt is installed on walls made of poorly load-bearing material, the load from the floor slabs will be distributed evenly along the entire length of the walls, which will have a beneficial effect on their strength characteristics.

Formwork for interfloor reinforced belt

Reinforcement of the interfloor belt is carried out with a mesh of ribbed reinforcing bars 10–12 mm thick in 2 cores. If the thickness of the walls varies between 510–610 mm, then double-sided brickwork can be used as formwork, as for the base belt. But at the same time, backing bricks should be used for internal masonry, and facing bricks for external masonry. In this case, the armored belt will have a width of 260 mm. If the walls are thinner, the backing brick should be laid on edge or wooden formwork should be used instead, and the facing brick should be laid on the outside in the same way as in the previous case.

Under the Mauerlat

The armored belt can be poured under the Mauerlat only after the glue/mortar for masonry walls has hardened. The technology used to lay the reinforced belt on aerated concrete differs in the formwork design, but we will talk about this a little later. Manufacturing wooden formwork carried out according to a scheme already familiar to you. Concrete is prepared according to the following formula: 2.8 parts sand to 1 part cement and 4.8 parts crushed stone. Thus, you will get M400 concrete.

After filling, eliminate any remaining air bubbles in the mixture. To accomplish these tasks, use a construction vibrator or poke a rod into the liquid mass.

Mounting the Mauerlat

When constructing a monolithic armored belt, the rules for fastening the Mauerlat must be observed. During the installation of the reinforcement frame, vertical sections should be removed from it to the height specified in the project. The reinforcement bars should rise above the reinforced belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. It is necessary to make through holes, equal to the diameter of the reinforcement, and threads should be cut at its ends. So, you will get a reliable mount, which will give you the opportunity to carry out high-quality installation roofs of any configuration.

Reinforced belt for aerated concrete

Aerated concrete is an alternative to brick, which has high thermal insulation qualities along with low cost. Aerated concrete blocks inferior to brick in strength. If, when installing an armored belt on brick walls Well, there is no need to pour concrete, since the reinforcement is laid during the laying process, then with aerated concrete things are different. How to make an armored belt on wooden formwork has already been discussed above, so in this subsection we will look at how to make a reinforced belt from U-shaped aerated concrete blocks D500. Although it is worth noting immediately that this technology is more expensive.

In this case, everything is extremely simple. Place the blocks on the wall as usual. Then reinforce their central part, and then fill it with concrete. Thus, the walls of your home will be more durable and reliable.

If you still have questions on the topic, then ask them to a specialist working on the site. If necessary, you can consult with our expert about filling the armored belt. Do you have personal experience? Share it with us and our readers, write comments on the article.

Video

You can learn how to make an armored belt for a house made of aerated concrete from the video:

kakpravilnosdelat.ru

Do-it-yourself reinforced belt for Mauerlat and floor slabs

Table of contents:

1. Why do you need an armored belt?
2. Fastening formwork and reinforcement frame
3. Armopoys of a brick house

The armored belt protects the house from deforming loads. It is especially required for buildings that are built from porous materials. For example, brick, foam and gas blocks. The house is under such pressure that the masonry can break and “crawl” under the influence of internal forces. He is also exposed external factors. Unloading belts are installed on different levels building. For example, foundation, basement, between floors, as well as an armored belt under the Mauerlat, which takes on the weight of the roof. What kind of reinforcing structures are required depends on the material of the walls and the load to which they will be subjected.

Why do you need an armored belt?

Difficult soils lead to uneven shrinkage of the building. In addition, wind loads and temperature changes lead over time to distortion of the structure and its destruction. All this requires strengthening the load-bearing walls. Another important reason is the use of materials of different hardness. For example, interfloor reinforced concrete slabs are placed on aerated concrete walls, but reliable fastening directly to the blocks is impossible.

In such cases, an armored belt must be installed under the floor slabs, which is located on the line of their support on the facade. Likewise, the roofing pie cannot be mounted directly on the blocks. A heavy roof will press down and sideways on them, which will eventually lead to cracks. The fact is that the blocks tolerate a uniform rather than a point load well, therefore, when installing a beam for the upper trim, it is necessary to install a distribution belt.

It is laid on the top row of blocks and combines the roof and facade into a single strong structure. Thus, the load from the roofing system is taken on by the reinforced belt under the Mauerlat, which becomes a kind of intermediary between the blocks and the beam for attaching the rafters. In addition to this type of reinforced concrete belts, a foundation reinforcing system is installed (inside the foundation itself) and a basement reinforcement system, which is located on the foundation (usually on a strip foundation).

Important: a house made of aerated concrete blocks must be reinforced between floors before laying floor slabs and after erecting the top floor before installing the roof.

How does the armored belt work?

The structure is located along the perimeter of the building without interruption. It is a monolith running along the contour of the walls. Its structure is similar to a strip foundation, but it is supported by the erected walls of the facade and internal load-bearing partitions. IN low-rise construction You can make an armored belt with your own hands, provided that ready-made concrete is delivered to the top. It is also necessary to ensure that the entire structure is filled with it quickly so that it does not begin to harden unevenly.

How to make a reinforcing belt correctly?

Work begins after the mortar or adhesive for laying the wall material has hardened. It should be noted that for gas blocks it is better to use a special glue that can be used to make a 3 mm thick seam without losing the quality characteristics of the facade. The technology used to lay the armored belt for aerated concrete differs in the design of the formwork. For it, wooden boards (standard option) or special U-blocks of the D500 brand are used. The second method is more preferable.

The blocks represent permanent formwork With good parameters heat saving. This means that concrete will not turn into one large cold bridge and will not require additional insulation. For removable wooden formwork, use panels made of 2 cm thick boards, which are pre-assembled on the ground.

How to securely attach the formwork?

An important point is the fastening of removable formwork. It is stitched through with reinforcement, and then iron knobs are welded to the rods from the outside. Also, the shields are tied together with wire and knocked down with boards, placing them on top. Reliable installation of formwork is important if the solution will be supplied through a pressure hose from a cement truck. If you do it yourself, you lift the cement with buckets. In this case, there is less risk that the formwork will break under the pressure of concrete.

Rebar frame

After installing the formwork, a frame is made from longitudinal rods d = 12 mm in an amount of at least 3 lines. For crossbars, use rods of the same thickness if they are constructing an armored belt for floor slabs between floors. But if it is installed under the Mauerlat, the reinforcement can be taken thinner (8-10 mm). The intersection points are knitted with wire. It should be noted that it is necessary to make 2 contours of the frame from rods.

Concrete is prepared according to the formula:

• sand 2.8 parts,
• cement 1 part,
• crushed stone 4.8 parts.

This ratio of ingredients allows you to obtain concrete grade M400. After pouring the solution, any remaining air bubbles in the mixture should be eliminated. To do this, use a construction vibrator or hit the concrete with a rod, pierce the still liquid mass to allow air to escape.

How to properly attach the Mauerlat?

It should be said that monolithic device armored belt requires compliance with the rules for fastening the Mauerlat. Even during the installation of the frame, vertical sections of reinforcement are removed from it to the design height. They should rise above the armored belt by the thickness of the Mauerlat + 4 cm. Threads are cut at the ends of these sections, and through holes of the same diameter are made in the timber in appropriate places. Thus, a reliable fastening is created that corresponds to a bolt and nut tie, which will allow you to reliably install a roof with any design features.

Armopoys of a brick house

For brick walls, you can make a simplified version of reinforcement with reinforcement. Instead of a monolithic one, an armored belt is made of bricks directly during laying. Depending on the load, the façade and internal load-bearing walls are reinforced with reinforcement or a special mesh. This is done every 4 rows. In this case, there is no need to install formwork, since the rods are laid directly on the brick during the construction of the row. If you take a mesh, its thickness should be from 5 mm.

osnovam.ru

Is armored belt needed for floors or not?

The question is whether you need an armored belt or not if you are building a house from blocks, I was puzzled by this question when I came across a video clip in which someone was building a house from large-format ceramic blocks and under the floor slabs he began laying bricks from ordinary solid bricks, raised them into two rows and onto them laid the slabs. His main argument for constructing an armored belt was that he was not confident in the strength of the Porotherm block. I became interested and turned to the documentation of the manufacturer of the Porotherm block. From these documents it turned out that from 44 it is possible to build buildings up to the 8th floor and no installation of reinforcing belts under the floors is required. I didn’t stop there and decided to search the Internet for photos and videos of houses made from large-format blocks.

My searches were successful and I found a video and photo in which a block was breaking off under hollow-core floor slabs, the block was destroyed along its entire height or from the top to a depth of 2cm to 5cm, this undoubtedly alarmed me, and I assumed that this was happening in places greatest tension. In practice, as soon as a crack appears on the block, it usually occurs when a targeted impact is applied to it, which is why when laying blocks of warm ceramics you need to use soft rubber mallets. It immediately became clear that when laying the slabs, large pebbles could get into the mortar and when the slab was lowered, they had a point effect on the block, which led to its destruction. Having understood what was happening with the block, I decided that there was no need to make a massive armored belt, which would also be a completely unnecessary cold bridge. It is clear that it is enough to first make a screed, and not for the entire thickness of the wall, but only to the depth of support of the floor slab and a thickness of 10mm-15mm. This is also convenient because the screed can be made to be level and the slabs will be easier and more evenly placed relative to each other. When laying the slab, there is a high probability that the mortar will fall into the honeycombs of the block and the slab will not lie flat; the screed will prevent the mortar from falling into the block.

In addition, in order to document whether an armored belt is needed for porothermal floors or not, I will provide drawings of constructive solutions for the installation of floors made of hollow core slabs and monolithic floors different thicknesses for walls made of Porotherm 38, 44, 51, the solution for monolithic floors can also be used for the installation of floors from PNO slabs. Manufacturer Porotem ordered design calculations in scientific research institute building structures, structural calculations were carried out for 6, 7-story buildings made of porotherm. I would like to make just a few of my own comments on two nodes, namely, supporting the slab on the masonry mesh directly through the mortar, the result can be squeezing the mortar out and into the block, resulting in the slab lying not on the mortar, but on the mesh, this is not very good for the block because the load on the block from the slab will not be evenly distributed and the noise from the ceiling will be more strongly transmitted to the wall. The second point is the use of facing bricks to compensate for the height in 160mm thick floors; it is better to replace it with solid bricks.

There is one very important point for floors, which must be taken into account at the design stage, the maximum and nominal length of the floor, which was calculated by one construction institute which was tasked with calculating load-bearing capacity ceramic block porotherms and prepare technical and structural solutions for the installation of certain components of the building structure. Calculations have shown that the length of the floor span is limited and is nominally 6 meters, with a maximum of 7 meters.