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The best brands cognac, wine, liqueur, rum, whiskey are kept in wooden containers. IN household barrels, tubs are also rightfully considered best place storage for pickles. In terms of sanitary and hygienic characteristics, they are not much inferior to containers made of of stainless steel, but surpass the latter in a number of quality indicators. Natural material creates a favorable environment for ripening products, giving them original aromatic and taste properties. You can make an oak barrel with your own hands if you carefully read the step by step guide for the manufacture of this desired product.

Professionals high level units, but this does not mean that the work cannot be completed. The requirements for making the required container at home are different. It is enough to make a structure that can withstand moderate loads during operation. The Bondar must have skills and knowledge in the following areas of activity:

• Joinery. Basic operations are performed using techniques and tools used in this matter;
• Basic metalworking skills. They are needed for the manufacture of high-quality, geometrically and technologically correct hoops;
• Basic knowledge of geometry. The shape of the barrel is complex, you need to accurately calculate the dimensions of each part: rivets, bottom, hoop;
• General concepts of heat treatment of wood. In cooperage it is important to choose correct mode hot processing during assembly (if the riveting has a significant bend), and then fire the finished product.

In the classic production of wooden containers, no adhesives or metal fasteners are used, with the exception of outer hoops. All connections are made by precise fitting of parts. Slots and gaps that make the product unsuitable for solving the assigned tasks are not allowed. A well-made barrel or tub, after assembly without soaking, should have the required tightness. In some cases, small leaks are allowed if the wood dries out, which can be easily eliminated by moistening and swelling the natural fiber.

Manufacturing principle and details of cooperage products

The technology for producing wooden containers requires precise, step by step execution operations, from the selection of raw materials to the decorative finishing of the outside of the product. To make oak barrel with your own hands, you need to know what it consists of:

• Frame. Assembled from prepared wooden blanks- rivets:
• Hoops. Made from metal strip. The exact diameter is determined in each specific case according to the planned dimensions of the barrel body. Wooden hoops are used less frequently. They are less reliable and more difficult to manufacture:
• Bottoms. Depending on the intended purpose, the container is equipped with one or two bottoms. The part is made by a set of wooden blanks assembled into a single plane, then a circle cut out according to a template with the necessary tolerance for a tight fit to the barrel body.

It is important to follow the exact recommendations of professionals at every stage of work. It is impossible to make a cooperage product of satisfactory quality without violating even one point of technology. The step-by-step production process is as follows:

• Selection of wood for staves, bottom;
• Drying, testing for suitability, rejecting low-quality workpieces;
• Manufacturing of rivets, bottoms, hoops;
• Barrel assembly;
• Burning;
• Final sanding decorative finishing front part (if necessary).

The geometric dimensions of the riveting in each case are original, depending on the height of the barrel, the degree of bending of the workpiece, its width, and the bevel angle of the end part for a tight fit with the adjacent element. You should accurately repeat the dimensions indicated in the existing drawings, or, having knowledge of the spatial construction of complex figures, independently determine the required values.

How to choose wood

Cooperage products can be made from various types of wood. However, oak barrels are considered the best. The choice is not accidental, since in addition to strength and durability, the material has unique biochemical characteristics to create optimal conditions storage of drinks and food products. Natural substances in oak wood fiber have an antiseptic effect and give pickles and alcoholic drinks unique taste and aromatic characteristics.

Experienced coopers choose raw materials when the tree is still growing. It is specially cut down and subsequently cut into the necessary pieces. It's getting to work Bottom part a trunk that should not have branches, visible bumps or bends. Usually it is 4-5 meters from the root, when the plant is at least 100 years old. It is difficult to fulfill these conditions at home if the master is not a native inhabitant of the forest. Therefore, the criterion for choosing wood for staves becomes the visible quality of the fiber. The requirements are:

• No knots:
• Inadmissibility of cross-layering;
• Cracks, natural defects, voids;
• Variety.

What can be compared to, for example, a cucumber or a tomato pickled in an oak tub? And honey is perfectly stored in a linden barrel, Apple juice, you can cook kvass in it. Finally, an oak tub with a lemon or laurel tree today will not spoil the interior of even a city apartment. You just can’t find these simple products either in the store or on the market. But you can make such a barrel yourself, and although this task is not an easy one, an amateur craftsman is quite capable of handling it.

Step 1. Selecting wood

Before creating a barrel with your own hands, you need to choose wood. Oak and pine are not suitable for storing honey - honey darkens in an oak barrel, and smells of resin in a pine barrel. Here we need linden, aspen, plane tree. Poplar, willow, and alder will also do. But for pickling, pickling or soaking, there is nothing better than oak - such a barrel will last for decades. For other needs, you can use sedge, beech, spruce, fir, pine, cedar, larch and even birch.

Usually the lower part of the trunk of old trees is used for rivets; it is called “riveter”. But a tinkerer will choose blanks from ordinary firewood and adapt the thin-sized trunk to the job. It is best to make rivets from raw wood.

Step 2. Splitting the lump

First, the log - it should be 5-6 cm longer than the future stave - is split in half, gently tapping the log on the butt of the ax. Each half is then again split into two parts and so on, depending on the thickness of the chock (Fig. 1), to ultimately obtain blanks 5-10 cm wide (for sweet clover - 15 cm) and 2.5-3 cm thick. You just need to try to ensure that the split goes radially - this will protect the riveting from cracking in the future.

Step 3. Drying the workpiece and processing

The chopped pieces are dried in a room with natural ventilation at least a month. To speed up the process, you can use a dryer. The dried workpiece is processed with a plow or sherhebel and a plane. First, the outer surface of the riveting is planed. In this case, to check the curvature of the surface, you should make a template in advance (Fig. 2), cutting it out of a thin plank along the already finished product. Next, the side surfaces are planed, also checking their curvature against the template.

Riveting can be tubular - in which one end is wider than the other, and barrel - with an expansion in the middle. The magnitude of these expansions determines the taper of the tub and the convexity of the central part of the barrel. It is enough if the ratio between the widest and narrowest part of the riveting is 1.7-1.8 (Fig. 3).

Processing of the side surface is completed by jointing. It is more convenient to do this by moving the workpiece along the jointer (Fig. 4).

Step 4. Processing the riveting from the inside

At the next stage we process the internal (in relation to finished barrel) the surface of the riveting, cutting off excess wood with a plane or even an ax (Fig. 5). After this, the barrel stave can be considered ready, but the barrel stave still needs to be thinned to 12-15 mm in the middle (Fig. 6). Don't be confused by the fact that the rivets can have different widths - we take the best we can from each workpiece.

Step 5. Preparing the hoops

Barrel hoops are made of wood or steel. Wooden ones are not so durable, and they are a hundred times more hassle, so it is better to use steel ones. The hoops are made from hot-rolled steel strip with a thickness of 1.6-2.0 mm and a width of 30-50 mm.

Having measured the barrel at the place where the hoop is tensioned, we add double the width of the strip to this measurement. Using a hammer, we bend the workpiece into a ring, punch or drill holes and install rivets made of soft steel wire with a diameter of 4-5 mm (Fig. 7). One inner edge of the hoop must be flared by striking the pointed end of a hammer on a massive steel stand (Fig. 8).

Based on their location on the product, hoops are divided into fart hoops - the central hoop on the barrel, morning hoops - the outermost hoops, and neck hoops - the intermediate hoops.

Step 6. Assembling the product

A grandmother brought a crumbling tub to a handyman with a request to put it back together. Tom had never had to do this before, but he did not refuse the old woman. I came up with the following: I threw a rope on the floor and laid out rivets on it one after the other. Then he pressed them down with pillows and pulled the ends of the rope together. Gradually removing the pillows, I brought the outer rivets together and secured them with a hoop.

Coopers make it easier.

The product can be assembled for any flat surface. First, two rivets are attached to the hoop opposite each other with special brackets bent from hoop iron (Fig. 9). Then, by attaching rivets to one of them, we will get to the other, which will press the assembled half of the barrel. Continue assembling until the rivets fill the entire perimeter of the hoop.

Lightly tapping the hoop with a hammer, we set it down and check whether the edges of the rivets meet tightly. To achieve contact between the rivets over the entire side surface, you need to add a rivet or pull out an extra one and then install a permanent hoop. By the way, if changing the number of rivets does not give the desired effect, you just need to narrow one of the rivets or replace the narrow one with a wider one.

Having leveled the ends of the frame with light blows of a hammer, put on the middle hoop and push it until it stops using a hammer (Fig. 10).

Step 7. Trimming the frame and final screed

Having placed the frame on a flat surface, we describe the cut line with a pencil using a block (Fig. 11). Having installed the morning hoop, we cut off the frame 2-3 mm from it and clean the ends of the rivets with a plane. We do the same with the other end of the frame.

When making a keg, after attaching the onion, neck and morning hoop on one side, the other side must first be tightened. Coopers have a special device for this - a yoke. Home master can use cable, rope, chain or wire for the same purposes. You can tie a noose and gag it, or tighten the ends of the cable with a lever (Fig. 12).

There is no need to steam or boil the core, as some experts recommend, before tightening. Occasionally, however, it happens that the riveting does not bend along its entire length, but in one place and therefore cracks. However, in such cases the cooper will prefer to simply make a new stave.

Step 8. Cleaning the frame from the inside

The assembled frame is cleaned from the inside with a plane or sherhebel, and the ends of the frame are cleaned with a humpback plane (Fig. 13).
Now you need to make a morning groove in the frame (Fig. 14). The cutter of the tool can be made from hoop iron, or even better, from a saw blade. The depth and width of the groove should be 3 mm (Figure 15).

Step 9. Making the bottom shield

First, from sweet clover with planed outer side and the bottom shield is assembled using the jointed side surfaces (Fig. 16). The clover is fastened with nails, as shown in the figure, for which nests 15-20 mm deep are pre-drilled. The radius of the future bottom is found as the side of a regular hexagon inscribed in the circle of the morning groove on the frame of the barrel. However, you need to cut out the bottom with a margin, departing from the intended circle by 1 - 1.5 mm. After cleaning with Sherhebel, chamfers are cut from the edge of the bottom (Fig. 17) so that three millimeters from the edge the thickness of the wood is 3 mm - this is necessary for the tightness of the connection between the bottom and the frame in the morning groove (Fig. 18).

Step 10. Fitting the bottom shield

We do the first fitting - having loosened the hoop, we put in the bottom, inserting one side of it into the groove, and then lightly hitting the rest of it with a hammer. If the bottom is tight, you need to further loosen the hoop, and if it is too loose, tighten it.

After stuffing the hoop, make sure there are no gaps. An ideal result is rarely achieved the first time. Even if the cracks are not visible to the eye, you can find them by pouring a little water into the barrel. If it flows between the rivets, it means the bottom is too big and needs to be slightly planed. It's worse if water leaks through the bottom or through the mouth groove. Then you will have to disassemble the frame and narrow one of the rivets.

Step 11. Installing the second bottom

Before installing the second bottom, a filling hole with a diameter of 30-32 mm should be drilled in it. The plug is made as shown in Fig. 19, its height must be no less than the thickness of the bottom, but the plug must not protrude beyond the plane of the frame edge.

Step 12. Painting

First of all, it depends on the operating conditions. But it is important to remember that painting filling containers oil paint should not be used: it clogs the pores, which contributes to the rotting of the wood. It is advisable to paint the hoops - they will not rust. For decorative purposes, a barrel or flower tub can be treated with mordants.

The brown color of oak is given by slaked lime mixed with a 25% ammonia solution. Black solution iron sulfate or infusion of iron filings in vinegar for 5-6 days.

A decoction of the rhizomes of woodruff (Asperula odorata) colors linden and aspen red. The decoction gives a red-brown color onion peel, brown - decoction of fruit walnut. These dyes are both brighter than chemical ones and more stable.

It is also important to remember that wood is better preserved at constant humidity. Therefore, dry containers should always be kept dry, and bulk products filled with liquid. Both of them cannot be placed directly on the ground. It is better to place a brick or plank under the barrel than to subsequently get rid of rot by cutting the chimes.

But no matter how long the barrel serves, all this time it will be a pleasant reminder to the owner of the difficulties overcome in understanding the secrets of the ancient craft of the cooper.

Vegetables are pickled in barrels and stored bulk products, keep water in reserve. They are needed in the pantry, on the site, in the bathhouse. How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands so that it is strong, reliable, durable, does not allow water to pass through and does not rot? What tools and skills are needed for the job, what will need to be studied and taken into account? This instruction will help you master a useful craftsman and even start own business in the manufacture of tubs.

Wooden barrel for household needs

Cooperation craft - how to become a master

If you are in a determined mood, have skills in woodworking, and your hands are always growing, why not try to realize the idea of ​​​​becoming a home cooper? Cooperation is a difficult craft that comes from ancient times. Nowadays there are very few masters of this craft, and there are only a few highly qualified craftsmen. Therefore, cooperage products are rare on the market, and even if you can find them, either the price or quality does not please the buyer.

Barrel assembly process

What tools are needed to assemble barrels?

Having decided to make your first barrel, keg or tub, you need to equip workplace and stock up necessary tools, devices, improvised materials. In addition to the usual carpentry kit, you will need to stock up on special cooperage equipment, fixtures and tools. This:

• carpentry workbench, equipped for cooperage;
• cooper's long jointer, circular humpback plane;
• a device for planing the edges of the boards from which the product is assembled);
• devices for tightening rivets (frame machine-gate, chain tie, post gate);
• plow, stapler, stapler;
• hand-made patterns and templates;
• metal or wooden clamps for assembling the barrel frame;
• morning maker (a device for cutting a morning groove into which the bottom of the product is inserted);
• heels (metal, wood, combined), tension for hoop;
• cooper's bracket.

Adaptations and measuring instruments

It should be taken into account that coopers make a significant part of the devices and tools themselves, “to suit themselves”, ensuring that the handles of the tools are held in the palm like a glove, and that the machines and workbenches are of the same height.

On the left is a two-handed, on the right is a one-handed morning drill and how to work with it

What you need to know to make cooperage products

Distinctive feature Cooper's ware is that it is assembled from wooden planks prepared in a special way, called rivets (otherwise, frets). The shape and dimensions of the product are completely determined by the configuration of the planks, which are pre-made by the cooper. A consumer qualities wooden containers depend on the type of wood used.

Therefore, it is not enough for a cooper to simply be able to master the tools perfectly. He must feel the “soul” of the tree and know the properties of each type of wood from which he plans to make this or that household item.

Rivets are the main element for making a barrel

An experienced cooper will not make an oak barrel for storing honey - when stored in it, the honey will darken and acquire an unusual aroma. But oak barrels are indispensable for aging wine and other alcoholic beverages: oak wood gives them new aromas and flavor shades.

The second element, without which cooperage products are unthinkable, is a hoop that holds the elements, tightens them tightly, thanks to which wooden barrels do not leak. Hoops are made of metal and wood. There is an opinion that metal hoops are stronger, and the hassle of making them is much less than with wooden ones. However, some craftsmen think differently and make beautiful products using wooden hoops.

Planter on wooden hoops

Main details and manufacturing principle

It may seem that the task of becoming an amateur cooper is too difficult, and one can only quietly dream about how to make a barrel out of wood. But if you're serious about making your dream come true, it's time to roll up your sleeves.

First of all, you need to choose the type of product that will become your first-born. With all their diversity, there are three types: with a conical, parabolic and cylindrical frame. As already mentioned, the shape of a cooper's product is completely determined by the configuration of the staves from which it is assembled - than more complex form, the more difficult it is to make the cherished wooden barrel.

Impact of configuration on product type

The figure above shows the types of cooperage utensils and the corresponding types of staves:

• Grooved, made in the form of a quadrangle, the long sides of which have the form of parabolic curves. Used in the manufacture of cooperage utensils with convex sides: barrels, kegs. Such rivets are the most difficult to make, which determines the complexity of making barrels in general.
• The base of the container is a cylinder. They are easy to manufacture because they are rectangular grooved boards. It is easy to make such frets, but it is difficult to connect them with hoops with a constant diameter. When the wood dries out, the hoops no longer hold the rivets. Therefore, cylindrical cooperage products are practically never found.
• Utensils are made from straight grooved frets in the shape of an elongated trapezoid, the frame of which is a truncated cone. When the hoop is stuffed onto the wide part of such containers, a very strong tightening of the rivets is achieved. This feature has found application in the manufacture of various tubs, tubs, and jugs.

A mini-bath is built using the same principle.

For the first experiment, it is advisable to choose the manufacture of a small tub, commonly called a barrel.

How to make a country tub for pickles

A tub is the simplest cooperage product with a conical frame. Having achieved success in building a tub, it will be possible to try on how to make more complex barrel at home. The creation process consists of three large stages:

• production of blanks ( components) products;
• assembly of the structure;
• finishing.

Planter for beginners

Independent preparation of rivets for the tub

The reliability and durability of a wooden barrel depends on how carefully the rivets are prepared. The most suitable are considered to be blanks chopped with an ax from logs and logs of sawn wood. Only the lower part of old tree trunks is suitable for this.

Oak wood, most often used to make barrels, is very durable. But oak logs (blocks) are quite easily split with an ax in the radial direction. In general, the process of preparing rivets from various trees approximately the same. There are single-row and double-row pruning methods. Single-row is suitable for splitting thin logs, double-row is suitable for massive logs.

Double-row punching of blanks

The procedure for cutting rivets from a ridge:

1. Split the ridge into 2 parts so that the split line passes exactly through its center.
2. Also split each block in half - you get quadruples.
3. Split the quadruples into 2 parts, obtaining octagons. For a thin block of wood, the pricking process usually ends here. It is the eighth part that will serve as a rough blank for future riveting. This is a single-row prick.
4. If the ridge is thick, make a two-row split: split each octagon in half along the annual ring (perpendicular to the medullary rays). The resulting logs are called gnatinniki.
5. Split each gnatinnik in the radial direction. In this case, you will get 1-2 riveted blanks from the smaller one and 2-5 blanks from the larger one.
6. Perform a small processing of the workpieces: cut off the wedge-shaped protrusions from the core side and the sapwood (frail young wood from the bark side).
7. Send the workpieces to dry. In summer they need to be dried for at least 3 months. outdoors or resort to artificial drying.

Sequence of making rivets

Making rivets from blanks

Before making rivets, it is necessary to make templates and patterns in accordance with the shape and dimensions of a particular product.

To make rivets for a tub or barrel, you need:

1. Make markings.
2. Perform rough processing of each riveted blank: slightly round the outer surface and bevel the edges with an ax.
3. Start finishing the outer surface with a straight plow or planer, controlling the process with a template.
4. Plan the inner side with a fillet or humpback staple.
5. Use an ax to trim the narrow edges of the frets, checking the accuracy with a template.
6. Level the surface of the edges with a jointer.

To determine the required number of rivets, you need to find the largest perimeter of the tub: multiply the diameter by 3.14. This value will be equal to the sum of the widths of all elements. For simplicity, so as not to have to measure the width of each part (and it can vary), you can: flat surface set aside a straight line segment equal to the largest perimeter of the barrel. Lay the finished rivets across the line until it is closed.

Hoop from metal sheet

Making metal hoops for tubs

The cooper has to deal with both wood and metal, because the hoops that hold the dishes together have to be made independently from a metal sheet. But it’s easier to make hoops from hot-rolled steel strip. To do this you need:

1. Determine the perimeter of the tub at the location of the hoop, add double the width of the strip to it.
2. Using a hammer, bend the strip into a ring, placing the ends of the strip overlapping. Drill or punch 2 holes with a diameter of 4-5 mm, install steel rivets.
3. Flare one edge of the hoop from the inside with hammer blows.

Frame Assembly Steps

To make a small barrel at home, two hoops are enough, corresponding to the perimeters of its upper and lower parts.

Stages of assembling the frame of the tub

Side rivets, tightened with hoops, form the skeleton of a wooden barrel. The skeleton should be assembled like this:

1. Attach 3 support rivets to the small hoop with clamps at approximately equal distances from each other, which will allow you to install the structure vertically.
2. Inserting the frets one by one, fill the sector between the two support rivets, fill the space around the entire perimeter of the small hoop.
3. Using a hammer and heel, press down on the small hoop so that the parts fit securely together.
4. Place the lower hoop on the frame and also attach it with a heel.
5. File the ends of the frame along the line drawn with a thicknesser.
6. Use a scraper to remove any irregularities inside the frame.
7. Plan the ends with a humpback plane.
8. Using a straight plow, chamfer the inside of the frame from the ends. This will prevent them from chipping and make it easier to insert the bottom.
9. Using a morning tool, cut a groove (morter) into which the bottom will be inserted.

Cleaning up irregularities with a scraper

Assembling and installing the bottom of the tub

The fewer joints there are in the bottom, the higher its reliability. Therefore, for the bottom you need to select the widest and thickest blanks. The procedure for making the bottom of a wooden barrel with your own hands is as follows:

1. Sand the edges of the boards and temporarily seal them together on a workbench.
2. To determine the radius of the bottom, place the legs of the compass in the groove. Using the trial method, select a compass solution that divides the perimeter of the chimney into 6 equal parts.
3. On the solid rivets, draw a circle with the resulting compass solution.
4. Within the circle, make marks at the locations of the studs.
5. Release the planks. Drill holes in the edges at the marked locations and drive in wooden or metal pins.
6. Place the planks tightly together on the studs.
7. Plan the bottom on both sides.
8. From the center, again draw a circle of the same radius as before.
9. Use a circular saw to cut out the bottom, leaving a small margin outside the circle.
10. Use a straight plow to chamfer both sides so that the thickness of the wood at a distance from the edge equal to the depth of the chimney remains equal to its width.
11. Knock down a large hoop with a heel, loosening the fastening of the rivets. Insert the bottom into the morning.
12. Carefully turn the tub upside down and place a large hoop on it.

Now the homemade tub is almost ready. All that remains is to make the lid and circle. This will not be difficult - you can focus on making the bottom. After checking the barrel for leaks, you can begin preparing pickles in it.

You may also find it helpful to watch a training video.

Video: How to make a wooden tub

Using the techniques described, you can make tubs for indoor plants or flowerbeds for landscape design.

Flowerbeds will be decorated garden landscape

How to make a reliable wine barrel

Having mastered the manufacture of tubs, you can move on to constructing a wooden barrel for aging wine with your own hands. And if homemade wine is not a subject of your interests, then the acquired skills can become the basis profitable business. After all, the demand and prices for cooperage products on the market are quite high.

Selection of material and production of rivets

Housing material wine barrels Only oak wood is used. The rivets for them are prepared in the same way as for the tubs, that is, split rivets are used. For an experiment, you can make a wooden barrel from boards (oak, of course). In this case, the barrel will last less than one made from chopped frets. It must be taken into account that the boards for riveted blanks should only be straight-layered, otherwise the walls will crack.

Selection of boards for riveted blanks: a) such boards are unsuitable; b) these boards are suitable

Frets for the barrel have a complex configuration. Each of them is thinner in the middle than at the ends, the outer surface is convex, the inner is grooved. And the side edges look like gentle parabolas. Accordingly, it is more difficult to make barrel frets than tub frets.

Stages of making barrel frets

First of all, you need to make a template, a pattern. Stages of making staves for a barrel:

1. Rough hewing with an ax with a semicircular blade until it is shaped into a prism. Reducing the thickness of the middle part by 15-20%.
2. Beveling the side edges with an ax. Rounding of the outer edge (control with a template). Using a template, measure the width of the stave in the middle, determine its dimensions at the ends, and apply marks.
3. Beveling the workpiece towards the ends along a slightly curved arc. Chamfering the side edges with a template check.
4. Planing the outer plate with a plane or straight scraper.
5. Treatment inner surface a humpback plane or a humpbacked scraper.
6. Joining of edges.

Assembling a wooden barrel

The beginning of assembly is no different from assembling a tub

Stages of assembling a wooden barrel

The beginning of assembly does not differ from that for a tub until all the rivets are inserted into the upper (the barrel has 2 bottoms!) hoop. Next you need to do the following:

1. Fill the second hoop, called the neck hoop.
2. Steam the lower loose part of the frame to increase flexibility.
3. Steaming time depends on the hardness of the wood and size cross section frets When constructing a thin-walled barrel with slightly steep sides, steaming is not required.
4. Tighten the steamed rivets with a chain tie or cooper's collar, put on the top hoop, then stuff the neck and middle hoops.
5. Temper and dry the frame in an accessible way, for example, by carefully rolling the frame, which contains a layer of burning shavings. You can use gas burner, blowtorch. The main thing is that the wood should be “tanned”, but not charred. This procedure fixes the shape of the barrel, and the taste of the drinks only improves.
6. Perform the same operations as with the frame of the tub: trimming, cleaning surfaces, cutting chimes.
7. Make and insert the bottoms, performing the same operations that were performed for this purpose for the tub. Only when installing the bottoms, in addition to removing the top one, you also need to loosen the neck one. In the upper bottom, pre-drill a hole for the fill and make a plug for it.

Hardening (firing) of wooden barrels

You can get acquainted with the process of making wine barrels visually by watching a short video.

Video: How to make a barrel out of wood

Video: Wine barrel made from boards

The construction of a barrel for a bath is similar

You have received some information on how to make a wooden barrel and tub with your own hands. If any questions remain, seek advice from an expert.

An oak barrel is a great thing for a person. You can pickle vegetables in it, make wine, moonshine, and cognac. At worst, just sit until it dawns on you, as some do, a great idea. It is not for nothing that in the old days the making of barrels was the domain of real craftsmen. We continue to tell you about things that you can master in your dacha. Next up is cooperage.

Unlike many endangered professions, such as saddler, lamplighter or carriage maker, coopers are still in demand in the 21st century. The production of tubs, barrels and decorative bar elements is now on stream. Beer and wine containers are manufactured industrially– spacious workshops, computer quality control, wholesale supplies. The cost, depending on the volume, ranges from several hundred to tens of thousands of rubles.

But, of course, the Russian person’s craving for things made with my own hands, nothing can win. Therefore, if you decide to make the barrel of your dreams yourself, we can only advise you! Follow the recommendations below - and any Diogenes will thank you!
So where does the barrel start?

Tree selection

Of course, you'll need oak first. Moreover, not the first one that comes across, but more or less mature, with a trunk diameter of 40-60 cm. Some specimens can be rejected even at the inspection stage. Thus, the characteristic bumps on the trunk indicate that the giant is infected with tobacco rot.

We also “weed out” twisted and knotty trees. In cooperage, only “sprat” is used - the first 4 meters of the trunk, the rest can be safely turned into fuel for the barbecue. Yes, if you can’t cut down the tree you like, you can always buy a similar one at the nearest sawmill.

Manufacturing of rivets

Now a little theory. The barrel consists of wooden parts, rivets, tightly fitted to each other and tightened with metal hoops. And the final quality of the entire product directly depends on how accurately the manufacturing technology of these elements was followed.

First of all, decide on the dimensions of the future barrel. Its height will affect the length of the riveting itself (it should be 2.5–3 cm longer).

Have you chosen your size? Cut the previously prepared oak round timber into it. It’s good to have a hydraulic splitter on your farm. Well, if not, the oak log splits into sectors old-fashioned method, using wedges. The result should be 8 radially split ingots.

Now we cut off the core and soft “white” fabric into circular saw. From the resulting blanks we plan out even boards of equal thickness using a surface planer.

Ready? Now... stack all this beauty in stacks somewhere under a canopy. And leave it for at least a few months. Or better yet, for a year - they don’t make a good oak barrel in an hour☺. During this time, the sun and wind, without creating unnecessary stress on the wood, will remove excess moisture from it. For now, you can take up grapes (by the way, there are excellent varieties for the Moscow region, we’ll definitely tell you about them someday). When the workpieces dry, you can continue. Using a jigsaw, give the boards the correct cigar-shaped shape, where the thickening will be only 0.8–1 cm wider than the ends.

The inner edge of the workpieces is trimmed in the middle with a curved plow. Less than a millimeter is enough, and when necessary, the rivets will bend in the right place. We give the outer edge the shape of an arc, the curvature of which is determined by a special pattern. Its radius depends on the radius of the barrel being manufactured. The tool is easy to make yourself. The result should be a product the same as in the picture.

On average, you will need from 25 to 30 staves per barrel.

Making a hoop

When the rivets are prepared, you can start making hoops. You will need a narrow strip of 2-3 mm iron, slightly longer than the circumference of the frame.

Twist it into a ring and secure it at the ends with rivets. The hoop is almost ready. Flare lightly with a hammer inner side– and can be put on the frame. For a small barrel you will need two pairs of hoops. Not less! What if some ring can't withstand the fermentation of your beer?

While you are working with iron, make a couple more metal staples. They will later serve as “clothespins”.

Assembling the barrel

The rivets are prepared, the hoops are ready. It's time to collect it all in a pot-bellied barrel. Take the finished ring and secure the ends of two or three rivets in it with clothespins in random places. The design will resemble a stool. In this position, fill the entire perimeter of the hoop with rivets. When the last board is in place, hammer the metal belt to fit the parts more tightly.

But before putting on the second hoop, the wood will have to be heated and steamed. It's done like this. We bring our semi-finished product to Fresh air and install it with the “socket” facing up. A small metal urn filled with wood chips is placed inside. We light a “fire” in it. While the fire is burning, wet the wood generously with water. This will keep it from catching fire and add flexibility to the boards. After half an hour of this “bath”, throw a noose on the end free from the hoop and pull it quietly with a winch. There is no rush in this place. The path to the finish line can take from 40 minutes to 3-4 hours, but any broken rivet will immediately return you to the beginning of the distance.

As soon as the wooden fan closes, immediately stuff the hoop. Just don’t forget the old Bondar law: “You can’t knock on the same place twice with a hammer.” In simple words When lowering the hoop, apply only one blow to each place. Under no circumstances hit there two or three times - you will split the wood.
When the metal belts are in place, the frame of the barrel ends up. The internal cavity is leveled with a special scraper and sanded with sandpaper.

And now another trial by fire. So that the tree gets used to its new form, it needs to be burned. The scheme is the same - the wood chips burn in the urn. Stir the fire constantly, otherwise the barrel will catch fire. There are no ready-made recipes here. If you set fire to the boards, the wine will take on a burning smell. If you finish firing ahead of time, the rivets will tear the hoop.

Manufacturing and installation of bottoms

At a distance of up to 2.5 cm from the ends of the frame, select the so-called morning groove. The bottom will then be inserted into it. Previously, such an operation was trusted only to a special incisor, a morning dresser (another endangered profession!). Today it is much easier to use a cutter. At the same time, remove the chamfers from the ends of the barrel. Useful when shrinking the bottoms.

To make them you will need rivets again, just a little large sizes. They are connected into panels with steel nails without heads. By actually measuring the length of the mouth groove, you can easily determine the radius of the bottom. Outline it on the shield and cut it out with a jigsaw. Sharpen the ends of the round.
The connection between the bottom and the frame looks like this.

To put the bottom in its place, the frame will have to be unchained on one side. The rivets should already be in shape by this time. Insert the round piece into the morning groove, press it into place with a mallet, and tighten the product again with the hoop. If everything is done correctly, the bottom will not leak. Before repeating the operation with the other bottom, cut a drain hole in it. Diameter – 32 mm. When everything is ready, we polish the barrel, giving it a marketable appearance, and prepare it for soaking.

Soak

In principle, the barrel is already ready. One could calm down on this, but the wood is still too saturated with tannins and tannins. Therefore, you will have to soak them, otherwise the contents of the barrel will deteriorate.

Fill the container one third with hot (80 °C) water. Rotate the barrel for half an hour so that the moisture moves around the entire perimeter. Next, drain the liquid and replace it with cold one. It should stand in the container for a day, after which it must be replaced again. And so on for two weeks. Some people soak the barrel with ready-made wine, others with moonshine. Everyone has their own style. But it’s worth starting with water.

Now the barrel is really ready for wine. Or beer. Or moonshine with cucumbers - what do you choose?..

(Last Updated On: 09.19.2017)

How to make a wooden barrel with your own hands modern society? Surely, today you won’t have to hollow out a product from a solid tree trunk, as it was before. Modern barrel very different from its fellow predecessors. The most important step towards its production was the appearance of metal hoops, which pulled the conical dishes very tightly together.

What wood is best to make a barrel from?

oak tree

It pricks perfectly and, when steamed, acquires extraordinary flexibility. It is this quality that is highly valued. But, most importantly, oak wood contains preservative substances called tills, which protect the wood from rotting. Therefore, products in oak barrels can retain their properties for many decades.

Cedar

Also used in the manufacture of barrels. Its properties are soft, flexible and lightweight. Previously, it was believed that cedar itself contained substances that destroy microbes. Therefore, you can make a cedar barrel with your own hands, in which drinks will be stored for a very long time and will not spoil.

Juniper

The inside of the trunk has red-brown wood, and the sapwood is much lighter, yellowish in color. The wood of this tree is characterized by density, strength and heavy weight, and is very easy to process - it cuts well and does not crack.

Pine wood

It has average characteristics - low hardness and average strength, high elasticity, bends well. Due to the specific tar odor, food products are not stored in pine barrels.

How to make a barrel at home

The question of how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands worries many craftsmen who would like to master new secrets of working with wood.

To make cooperage products, rivets or frets are used. These are rectangular wooden planks obtained by sawing the butt or trunk of a tree into separate parts. Another way is to split decks or logs.

Sawn frets are very durable. Chopped ones are more difficult to make. The most important thing is to be able to split the wood so that the rivets are clean and even, and there is little waste of wood chips left.

To make a wooden barrel with your own hands, you need to correctly split the wooden block in the direction of the radius, preferably getting into the core. If the ax hits slightly to the left or right of the core, then the chip line is called tangential. In this direction, almost all tree species split much harder.

Ordinary blocks will also be used to make rivets. Of these, you need to choose only those where the layers are located lengthwise and not across. The finished frets are dried and neatly folded.

How to make screed hoops

Iron hoops began to be used a very long time ago. Initially, they were used to tighten buckets consisting of sixteen rivets. Moreover, for strength, they were additionally pierced with nails.

Nowadays, hoops are cut from durable sheet steel, then blacksmiths decorate them with all sorts of stamped designs. The finished hoops are coated with bitumen varnish or drying oil. If you dry the drying oil layer with a blowtorch, you get a beautiful light brown color.

How to assemble a conical barrel base

First, we will try to connect the prepared side rivets and temporarily tighten them with permanent hoops. To do this, attach two or three initial rivets to one of the hoops (it is better to take a small diameter one). Carefully holding each inserted board with your hand, we fill the entire space with the missing rivets. Be especially careful when inserting the last rivet. It may turn out that there is not enough space left for it. Take it and trim it a little, attaching it evenly to the rest of the rivets. This type of work is usually done with two or three assistants.

Barrel assembly diagram:

Using a hammer and a wooden drift, you need to hammer the hoop so that it sits tightly on the base of the barrel. A hoop of larger diameter is also settled.

The last operation is installing the bottom. It is carefully placed in the groove, the barrel is turned over and a large hoop is secured. If the connection is strong and reliable, then the temporary hoops are replaced with permanent ones.

Now you can imagine how to make a wooden barrel with your own hands, using only the material that everyone has on the farm.