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Today, soft roofs not only occupy a leading position in the market, but have become a real discovery for designers and architects. Many styles, individual solutions and the possibility of easy implementation on complex roof structures - what more could you ask for? The main thing is to achieve absolute tightness between the shingles, on which the durability of the entire coating depends. And the installation itself flexible tiles It will be within your power, believe me, even if this is your first time encountering this type of work!

Therefore, if you carefully read our tips, you will be able to cover even a large roof with the help of one more person. The fact is that even in the factory, shingles are prepared for gluing by applying a special solution to bottom layer, and they even make four holes so that you know exactly where to drive in the roofing nails. And now we will tell you about all the intricacies of working with soft roofing.

Once the roof frame is ready, install the vapor barrier as a continuous carpet with inside roof, without gaps, and fix it to the rafters using wooden planks. You will then attach the inner lining of the attic to these same planks.

Now take care of the vapor barrier. If the attic is cold, then all the moisture will come out of it on its own, using natural ventilation. But in the case of a residential attic, a vapor barrier is necessary. For this purpose, an additional strip is stuffed on the rafters, a vapor barrier film is rolled out with an overlap and taped with special tape (regular tape is not suitable!).

Next, with outside Place the selected insulation on the vapor barrier film, preferably staggered. Cover the top with a windproof membrane and secure with bars, which will also later serve to create ventilation channels.

As a result, you should end up with a “layer cake” like this, as roofers like to call it:

We have prepared for you detailed master class, how and in what order everything should happen:

As you noticed from the photos above, laying flexible sheets on the curved lucarnes was not difficult!

Step 2. Installation of continuous flooring

To install flexible tiles, a rigid solid base is required. Therefore, mount a solid carpet of plywood or OSB boards on the prepared sheathing, with a gap of 3-5 mm, which is necessary for deformation from temperature and moisture, and secure it to the rafters with self-tapping screws.

The main requirement for a base for flexible tiles is a flat area and the ability to fix the shingles with nails. Suitable for this purpose are sheets of glued wood shavings like plywood or tongue and groove boards laid end to end. Only the board should be as dry as possible so that waves do not form during drying. But big mistake use under soft roof only the sheathing itself, albeit more frequently, because already in the first season the entire roof will simply go in waves. And photos with such problems become a real asset for manufacturers who scare their customers with such errors.

Once the base is ready, reinforce the eaves overhang with metal strips. These are laid edgewise on the edge of the base and secured with roofing nails, in increments of 150 mm, in a checkerboard pattern:

Step 3. Selecting and installing the substrate

Now is the time to take care of waterproofing. It is necessary in such difficult places, such as abutments, joints and valleys. Here the canvases are laid from bottom to top with an overlap of 10 cm in the longitudinal and 15 cm in the transverse direction:

We recommend that you use a specially designed underlay rather than roofing felt or similar material, as is sometimes done. The fact is that they and the finishing roofing coating have different service life, and even conditions of use!

And such an attempt to save money will soon lead to swelling of the entire roofing carpet. In addition, no manufacturer will provide a guarantee for a roof that contains materials from third-party manufacturers.

By the way, until recently, lining carpets were practically not used in Russia, and even today many people try to cheat. This is logical, because by the time the roof is built, it often turns out that the planned budget for the entire house is not enough, and concessions have to be made. But, if you want to lay roofing tiles and forget about it for many decades, then do not give up such an important element.

There is always a risk that water will penetrate into the under-roof space, especially in such difficult places as crawl spaces chimneys or contact with an installed antenna. There are also emergency situations when strong winds lift shingles during a rainstorm.

Moreover, choosing a roofing carpet is not difficult, because... it is subject to the same requirements as tiles: to be resistant to temperature changes, provide reliable waterproofing and last a long time. And the modern market provides many options, both imported and domestic. Moreover, many factories in Russia today operate on European equipment and the quality of their products is not inferior to their foreign counterparts.

In general, underlay carpets come in two types: self-adhesive and with mechanical fixation. Self-adhesive ones are laid mainly in valleys, and mechanical ones are rolled out over the remaining roof area and fixed with galvanized nails:

Here is the process of installing a regular roofing carpet that will need to be fixed bitumen mastic:

Here is an example of working with a more modern self-adhesive roofing carpet:

So, a self-adhesive waterproofing carpet is ideal for a valley. And, if the slopes have a slope of more than 18 degrees, then consider laying the carpet in all places of probable leaks, and these are: ribs, ridges, gable overhang and all exits of roofing elements.

But on a roof with a slope of 12 to 18 degrees, you will need a continuous waterproofing carpet. Before this, we recommend placing self-adhesive tape on the eaves overhangs. bitumen-polymer material, for example, “Barrier”, and at the same time strive to ensure that the carpet itself is without overlap - continuous along the entire length:

Also insulate ventilation passages, areas around roof windows and chimneys in advance. Before installing the flexible tiles, coat all the passage elements with bitumen mastic yourself - it’s not difficult.

Before you begin laying shingles, you will also need to strengthen the eaves overhangs. They need to be fixed with roofing nails in increments of 10-15 cm. Here is an educational video lesson on this topic from the company:

Step 4. Selecting fasteners

To secure shingles, you will need special nails with wide heads. It will be extremely important to nail them so that the head is in the same plane with the surface of each shingle, and at the same time does not “cram” into it. In addition, nails for soft tiles must be galvanized.

Nails for installing soft tiles are divided into the following types:

• Tar paper nails. Their tip is so sharp that when buried in the bitumen layer, they do not violate its integrity. Such nails are produced galvanized or without a protective layer at all. Of course, unprotected ones are the cheapest, but at the same time they are not at all practical and quickly begin to rust. These are only suitable for assembling furniture or constructing temporary sheds.
• Rough nails. They have special teeth on the working rod that are directed towards the cap. These are not easily driven into wood, although it is quite difficult to pull them out even with a nail puller. And most often, during the dismantling process, the heads of rough nails are simply cut off - and that’s it. They fix the roofing so tightly that they are more often used for slate than for soft roofing.
• Club nails They have longitudinal grooves and jumpers on the working rod, and they are less suitable for soft roofing.

We recommend that you use galvanized rough nails with a head diameter of 8-9 millimeters as roofing nails specifically for flexible tiles. They also produce special nails for bitumen shingles, and they differ from their standard counterparts.

These are made from strong steel wire, which is automatically cut into equal pieces, then the workpiece is sharpened on one side, and riveted into the shape of a hat on the other. If you find these on sale, you can buy them.

But it is important that the nails themselves comply with GOST 4030-63: the diameter of the rod is 3.5 mm, and the diameter of the head is at least 8 mm. The thing is that when working with concrete shingles, the most unpleasant moment is when the nails, with the next blow, simply sink into the bitumen layer and thereby violate the integrity of the coating. But the expanded cap will not be able to “sink” so easily. And the larger it is, the better it will hold the shingles, which is why high-quality nails for flexible tiles resemble a pushpin. Moreover, for single-layer and two-layer tiles you will need nails with parameters of 30x3.5 mm, and for three-layer tiles - 45x3.5 mm.

By the way, some would-be builders don’t understand why they can’t just heat up sheets of soft tiles and glue them to the flooring, why exactly nails and all the fuss associated with them? In fact, the use of open fire on such a roof is prohibited due to basic fire safety considerations. So, forget about this risky idea and rent an automatic appliance.

Step 5: Place the starting strip

Now let’s move on directly to laying flexible tiles. It starts from the starting line. As such you can take:

• a pattern from ordinary tiles, for example shingles with cut petals, if you are working with collections " Tango" or " Trio»;
• universal ridge-eaves tiles, especially if you work with “ Chord», « Sonata" or " Jazz».

If it's more convenient for you to start with the eaves tiles, lay them on top of the metal strip, stepping back a little from the bend. Next, nail it down, but keep in mind that the longer and steeper the slope, the greater the indentation from the inflection point should be:

Here's what laying the starting strip looks like in practice:

Step 6. Installation of different types of shingles

Now let's unpack the shingles. The main requirement for their installation is dry, warm weather, because it is undesirable to lay bitumen shingles at temperatures less than +5°C, because in areas where it will need to be bent, it will be difficult to avoid cracks.

If you still have to fasten shingles in such conditions, then preventive maintenance will be needed: the sheets are heated with a construction hairdryer and bent to metal pipe about 10 cm in diameter. But it's better not to do that.

Calculate required amount shingles are not difficult: take one sheet, measure the area that will be visible, find out the area of ​​the slope and divide the second by the first. Here is valuable advice on how to calculate and prepare flexible tiles for installation:

Of course, if you have a diamond eye, you can get by with detailed calculations, but marking lines serve as excellent guides along which you can align the tiles both vertically and horizontally. Especially if you are laying soft roofing for the first time.

Believe me, tearing off several sheets and reattaching them to fix a jamb is not the most fun. And absolutely without markings, if some element is embedded in the roof or the overall geometry of the slope is broken. Tools such as a hammer, a plumb line and a level will help you in this matter.

As we have already said, usually, for convenience, ready-made shingles are marked with small holes in the factory so that you know exactly where to hammer the nails. If there are none (for example, in the cheapest collections), then simply step back 2-3 cm from the edge and be guided by this illustration:

In each case, the place where the nail is driven will directly depend on the shape of the cut of the tile itself. It is only important that each nail simultaneously pierces both the lower and upper edges of all sheets, and if you are laying flexible tiles on slopes with an angle of 45°, then the upper corners of the shingles also need to be additionally fixed.

The entire procedure for laying flexible tiles is not complicated, here are the instructions for the process itself:

1. Before installation, mix shingles from several sticks to minimize variations in shade. The fact is that even in one mail the color can differ so much that you will be surprised, and such incidents will be very noticeable on the roof.
2. If the slope is long enough, start laying the tiles from its center and level it horizontally. And the second row is already shifting the shingles to the left or right by half a sheet. Shift the third and all subsequent rows relative to the previous one, also half the petal, left or right, depending on which direction you initially chose.
3. You need to start laying tiles on a slope with a lesser slope, and you should approach a steeper slope by at least 30 cm. On a steeper slope, it is recommended to knock off the chalk lines so as not to get lost. Now cut the tiles on a more slope along this new line, and after fixing, coat them with bitumen mastic where there is no self-adhesive layer on the back side.
4. Lay the tiles from bottom to top, moving away from the edge of the drip edges. Here you will need to lay special ridge-eaves tiles. By the way, you can replace it with a regular one if you cut the petals.

Now secure the shingles. An automatic tool is good for this, especially if it runs on electricity. The main thing is that when choosing a model, take care of your own safety: the trigger mechanism should be comfortable, with protection against an accidental shot and the ability to remove a stuck nail without any risk. After all, a hammer is usually more intended for small household work, and professional roofers rarely use it.

The only point: if the special roofing nails do not fit the gun, take a ready-made clip of nails with a wide flat head. They differ in that they are connected to each other by a thin wire. This kind of tape is inserted into the chamber and the nail is fed one after another. This is much more convenient when working at heights: you don’t need to look for bunches, you don’t need to expose your fingers to the blow, and the fastening itself will be of better quality than when you are already too tired on the 501st nail. The main thing is to follow the basic technology: the nail must be driven in strictly perpendicular to the plane of the shingle.

Remember, if some shingle was not securely fixed, then over time it will loosen its fastening and fly off with a gust of wind. And the nail itself, lifted by the wind, will tear the sheet, shaking the neighboring one. And all this will lead to leakage and necessary repairs. Of course, it will not be possible to completely avoid problem areas, which is why periodic inspection of such a roof is necessary.

Now let's look at the features of installing shingles different types. So, from a single-layer tile before installation you need to remove protective film, which is always located on both sides of the shingle. Why is she? The fact is that this roofing covering is transported by ordinary trucks both in the heat and in the heat, but we are still talking about bitumen.

But in collections with such cuts as “ Dragon tooth", there is no film, it is only important to choose a beautiful pattern or lay it chaotically, simply mixing shingles.

And how exactly to work with each type of shingle cutting, the following illustrations will help you:

Further, if you have to work with complex roof, you have two ways to install asphalt shingles: segmented and seamless. In the first method, divide the corner or cone into equal segments, and lay each of them separately. And in this way, cover the entire roof. The seamless method is more complicated: here it is important to make the correct marking of the ramp and navigate according to it. Think and choose the one that seems more convenient to you.

Step 7. Fastening the tiles in the valleys

And now – about the most problematic areas of the roof. You can organize the valleys, namely the internal curves of the roof, in two ways: open and closed, which is also called the undercut method. The main thing is then to make a triangular strip at the junction of the roof and the wall and place tiles under it.

In addition, if the wall is brick, it must be plastered and treated with a bitumen primer. Top part the junction must then be covered with a metal apron, which must be secured and inserted into the grooves, and then sealed:

Step 8. Laying ridge and spine tiles

Next, we will understand the concepts of ridge tiles. As you might guess, these are the shingles that cover the ridge of the roof. All other tiles are called ordinary tiles. By the way, spine tiles are obtained when the ridge-cornice tile is divided into three parts, or they are cut out from ordinary ordinary tiles using the perforation method.

To correctly lay the spine tiles, use a cord to mark off the dimensions of the future ridge - these are two stripes along it, and lay the spine tiles from the bottom up. Then secure the shingles with nails on each side and make sure that the overlap of the overlying shingles overlaps the nails by 5 cm.

The ridge tiles are laid on the side opposite to the so-called wind rose (you can find out about this from your neighbors or from the wind map). Then everything is the same as during the laying of the ridge. If there is no self-adhesive layer in the right places, coat it with mastic.

Now let's move on to the ribs. Here the ordinary tiles should be cut so that there is a distance of 3 to 5 mm between adjacent slopes:

Here's another great tutorial that walks you through the details of the process:

And another example of neat work:

Step 9. Finishing work with additional elements

And finally, finishing work. The installation of flexible tiles is always completed by installing a ridge aerator. To do this, a special groove is cut along all the slopes, and an aerator is inserted into it. It is fixed with nails and covered with special ridge tiles.

Also, special additional elements are made for soft roofing - these are the lower parts of the roof passages, which are popularly called “skirts”. And to prevent snow from accumulating behind ventilation and chimney pipes, especially when their cross-section exceeds 50x50 cm, you need to organize a groove. In short, you will need the following elements:

So, your roof is ready, and all that remains is to properly care for it. To do this, once every six months, use a soft brush to sweep away all small debris, leaves and branches, from the roof. The main thing is not to use sharp tools, because it is important not to scratch the basalt chips. And clean your gutters and funnels from time to time.

Fortunately, a roof made of flexible tiles is highly repairable: it is enough to heat the damaged area, remove it and lay new tiles. It's just a matter of one day!

The basis for soft bitumen shingles is fiberglass, bitumen and stone chips. The popularity of the material was ensured by its complete immunity to corrosion and water resistance. It can be used on any roof shape, including domes. Basalt powder protects from heat and ultraviolet radiation, protects the bitumen base from precipitation and mechanical damage. Fiberglass provides the strength of the material, and bitumen provides complete waterproofing. Due to the versatility of the coating, many are interested in how to cover a roof with a soft roof with their own hands.

Among the advantages of bitumen shingles:

• ease of transportation and unloading due to low weight;
• a small percentage of waste during installation, even on a curved surface;
• soft material absorbs the sound of rain;
• resistance to high and low temperatures;
• plasticity and flexibility, allowing you to create various geometric shapes;
• long operation;
• lack of electrical conductivity.

Manufacturers of soft roofing offer several forms of tile cutting and many colors.

Tools for work:

1. Hacksaw.
2. Roulette.
3. Hammer.
4. Trowel for mastic.

Where to start styling

You can cover your roof with tiles by scrupulously following technological sequence works The first stage of arrangement is preparing the foundation. The waterproofing of the roof is affected not only by the quality of the bitumen shingles, but also by the sheathing. The base must be extremely flat, strong and rigid. The pitch of the sheathing depends on the angle of the slope and the strength of the winds in the region; it is 50–100 cm. The basis of sufficient strength will be edged boards made of softwood, OSB, and moisture-resistant plywood. To protect against rotting, materials are treated with an antiseptic. A gap of 3 mm is maintained between adjacent sheets for thermal expansion. The material used must be dried, humidity up to 20% is allowed. The boards are joined above the supports, the length of each spans two spans of rafters. The slabs are laid staggered and fixed with self-tapping screws.

To avoid metal corrosion, use galvanized nails.

Ventilation for soft roofs

To ensure air circulation, holes are left at the highest point (on the ridge) and at the junction of the cornice. Ventilation allows you to reduce the temperature in attic, remove vapors and condensation from under the roof, avoid ice in winter. Holes for natural ventilation are evenly distributed along the length of the ridge and cornice.

The base should not be adjacent to the waterproofing, so it is important to make a gap of 5 mm.

Construction of the lining layer

When the roof slope is from 12 to 18 degrees, roll insulating material is spread over the entire roof. They begin work from below, from the cornice, laying the canvas parallel to it. The joints of the lining layer are overlapped and nailed every 20 cm. All seams are sealed with glue. If the angle of inclination is large enough, then individual areas are isolated: roof windows, ridges, valley, cornices and ends. On valleys, the lining material is spread on both sides, its width is at least 50 cm. On the eaves overhang, the size of the lining material is 60 cm.

Additional items

The edges of the sheathing need protection from rain. To do this, a metal drip is nailed along the cornice. It is attached to the cushioning layer with an overlap of 2 cm, nails are driven in every 10 cm.

The ends are covered with special metal pediment strips; they are attached in the same way as cornice strips - overlapping and on top of the insulating layer.

The valley is an area where leaks are possible; to prevent them, a valley carpet is laid. It is made of polyester fabric, treated with bitumen and basalt topping. It is fixed to the roof using mastic and nails, which are driven 3 cm from the edge. The valley carpet is selected in the same color as the soft tiles. The edge of the asphalt shingles is trimmed to leave 15cm of carpet exposed. This is necessary to create a gutter through which rainwater will flow. The described method is considered optimal.

Nuances you need to know

1. It is recommended to carry out work on laying rows of soft tiles at an air temperature of +5 degrees (°C). During frosts it is impossible to ensure normal adhesion of bitumen. In addition, the material becomes brittle and does not allow creating a curved structure. The connection of tile shingles to the base and to each other occurs when heated by solar heat.
2. Working at low temperatures, the tiles are brought in in small batches, and the bulk is stored in a warm room.
3. You cannot leave a soft roof under the scorching sun so that the bitumen does not melt.
4. Bituminous shingles have slight differences in color; it is better to take shingles from different packs, then the transition will be smooth.
5. Do not clean the roof with shovels, as this may damage the coating. During installation, it is necessary to set the slope angle to prevent snow from accumulating on the roof.

Before starting work with flexible tiles, mark the base. Horizontal lines are drawn in increments of 70 cm (five rows of tiles), vertical markings are equal to the size of the shingles. This will allow them to be laid in even rows. The cornice row of asphalt shingles is laid first. It is made from a universal self-adhesive soft roof. Before starting work, remove the protective film. The sheets are laid end to end and secured with nails along the perforations. The fixation sites overlap with the next row.

Installation of flexible tiles begins from the middle of the eaves and moves to the ends. The first row should overlap the tiles laid above the eaves, the distance between their lower edges is 1 cm. When the slope slopes up to 45°, 4 nails are used to fasten one tile; higher value add 2 nails for secure fixation.

The head of the nail should be flush with the surface of the asphalt shingles and not cut into it.

The petals of the next rows should be at the same level and cover the perforation of the previous row. Depending on the cutting of the tiles, the offset of the next row is selected. This allows you to create a chaotic or ordered pattern. Most models are laid with a half-petal offset. Markings made before installation will allow the rows to continue flexible roofing, interrupted dormer windows or chimney pipes. At the ends, the soft tiles are cut off, not reaching 1 cm from the strip, and its edges are glued with a layer of mastic 10 cm wide and nailed.

When cutting the material, plywood should be used as a backing; this will protect against accidental damage to the bottom layer of soft tiles.

The dimensions of the gutter are noted on the valley carpet; it can be from 5 to 15 cm. It should be noted that a 30-centimeter zone is formed near the gutter, which cannot be nailed. The tiles are trimmed along the border of the gutter. The upper corner of the shingles is cut off to drain water. Using a trowel, apply mastic to the edge of the tile and attach it to the carpet.

Features of finishing of the ridge and roof ribs

To make shingles suitable for a ridge, it is necessary to cut ordinary asphalt shingles into three parts. On the edges of the roof, ridge tiles are laid from bottom to top. After removing the protective film, it is glued and fixed with four nails two centimeters from the edge. The next part is glued with an overlap of 5 cm.

Ridge shingles are laid to face the prevailing winds. For ease of installation, each part of the ridge tile is heated in the middle and bent along the edge of the bar to form an angle. The tiles are attached to a bitumen base and 4 nails. In the ridge row, soft tiles are overlapped on top of each other, like ordinary ones.

To ensure sealing at the junctions with antennas, chimney or ventilation pipes, a valley carpet or galvanized metal is laid. When choosing a carpet, a plinth is installed on the pipe. The pattern of the material used is laid with an overlap of at least 20 cm onto the ordinary tiles. The back side of the carpet is coated with bitumen mastic. It is glued along the perimeter of the pipe, the places of contact with the tiles are treated with bitumen mastic to a depth of 10 cm. The top of the carpet, which extends onto the pipe, is covered with metal strips.

To install roof penetrations, special passage elements are purchased. Such an element is laid with an overhang of 2 cm onto the roof. A hole is cut in the base. The skirt of the element is glued with mastic and nailed. Its surface is covered with bitumen shingles, and the remaining joint is covered with mastic and sprinkled with basalt chips to protect it from ultraviolet radiation.

A properly laid soft roof will provide reliable protection for your home for at least 30 years.

Video

Detailed video on installation of flexible tiles:

The appearance of soft tile roofing materials on the market has significantly simplified the process of covering roofs of complex configurations. This is the only one quality material, possessing flexibility and plasticity, it can be used to quickly and hermetically cover all types of roofs, including domed ones. At the same time, the amount of unproductive waste is minimal, which cannot be said about other roofing materials. The service life of some types of flexible tiles reaches fifty years, however, such material in cost is not much different from piece coverings in the elite segment.

The reliability and durability of a roof equally depend on several factors.

1. Technical characteristics of soft tiles. You should pay attention not only to appearance, this parameter only affects the appearance of the building and has nothing to do with durability. Buyers should find out what base was used by the manufacturers, what type chemical composition bitumen and what is its thickness. Bitumen must be modified to increase protection from ultraviolet rays, increase ductility at sub-zero temperatures and resistance to mechanical loads. The base must be chosen the strongest of the polymer fibers.

   

2. The quality of the rafter system. If the structure is wobbly, has uneven surfaces, and the load-bearing units do not meet maximum loads, then the roof will not be airtight. Over time, due to numerous fluctuations, mechanical damage or detachment. This applies to all roofing materials, not just soft tiles.

   

3. Professionalism of roofers. No matter how high-quality the roofing material is, the inept actions of the builders neutralize all its advantages. Builders must not only have an excellent knowledge of theory, but also have extensive practical experience. Inexperienced roofers can make their own decisions depending on the situation; it is impossible to foresee all problems in advance. In addition, responsible craftsmen will never deviate from the recommended technology in order to save time.

   

All roofing work on laying soft tiles consists of several stages, the high-quality implementation of each of them affects the reliability and durability of the roof.

Depending on the complexity of the rafter system and the purpose of the building, some steps can be skipped. The table provides the most complete list of construction measures for the most complex roofs.

Before starting installation work, you should prepare tools and draw up a preliminary action plan.

Flexible soft tiles are ideal for roofing houses with complex roof shapes. If you choose the right quality material and correctly install it on the roof of the building, it will provide the roof with high performance characteristics for many years. It is also important that when using flexible tiles there is almost no waste left.

Soft tiles can be laid on a roof of almost any complexity and an angle of inclination of 12°-90°. This material is distinguished by low weight, noiselessness and aesthetics (has wide choose shades and textures), durability and reliability, high water resistance and avalanche properties.

Installation of soft tile roofing takes place in several stages:

Preparing the base

Before covering the roof, carefully prepare the base for its installation. The foundation must satisfy certain conditions:

• be rigid and even, for example, they can act as a base OSB boards, moisture-resistant plywood, edged or tongue-and-groove boards;
• be dry (humidity no more than 20%) and ventilated;
• the base boards must be at least twice as long as the span between the supports, their maximum width is 15cm;
• the joints between laid boards must be supported;
• a sufficient gap (about 5 mm) is left between the boards, allowing for possible expansion of the base material with changes in temperature and humidity;
• It is recommended to lay the boards with the core facing up;
• if it is known that the material for the base will be plywood, then the distance between the rafters is selected in such a way that the seams of its sheets fall exactly on them.

The finished base is pre-impregnated with antifungal and fire retardant agents. To properly cover the roof with soft tiles, it is necessary to provide ventilation on the roof.

Ventilation device

Ventilation is a mandatory and very important point so that the installation of a roof made of soft tiles is carried out without errors and shortcomings. It is necessary to:

• withdraw excess moisture from under-roofing (lathing, insulation) and roofing materials;
• V summer period reduce the temperature inside the roof structure;
• ventilate the building;
• prevent ice and icicles from freezing on the roof.

For optimal solution For these tasks, ventilation must be provided with a fairly large gap (more than 5 cm). The exhaust ventilation hole on the roof should be located as high as possible in its upper part, and the supply ventilation hole - in the lower part.

Lining layer

A reinforcing layer is placed under the soft tiles. If the roof is sloping (slope less than 1:3), then according to the flexible roof installation technology, the entire roof area is covered with an underlayment layer. In the case of a steeper roof, it is enough to install the underlayment in the end parts, in the valleys, on the eaves overhangs, on the ridges. The material is laid in layers with an overlap of 10 cm from bottom to top. The edges of the material are attached to the base of the roof using nails (steps of 20 cm), and the joints are sealed.

Cornice protection

On eaves overhangs, rain moisture can penetrate the edge of the sheathing. For protection on underlay carpet With an overlap (starting from 2 cm), drip edges (metal cornice strips) are laid, which are nailed in a zigzag manner in increments of 10 cm.

End protection. The end parts of the sheathing are protected in the same way as a cornice using metal gable strips.

Installation of valley carpet
To increase the water resistance of roofs in valleys, a valley carpet is installed on the lining layer to match the tiles. The edges are securely fixed with roofing nails (10 cm increments).

Installation of tiles
How to cover a roof with soft tiles? Work on the installation of tiles begins from the center of the eaves overhang of the roof in the direction of the end edges. In the first row, the tiles are laid indented from the edge of the cornice (3-5 cm). The protruding elements must cover the joints formed between the tiles of the cornice. The protective film is removed from the tile tiles and glued to the base, after which they are nailed above the groove line.
Subsequent rows are laid with the ends of the tongues, corresponding to the cut-out level of the tiles of the previous row. The tiles in the valleys and at the end sections of the roof are cut to the shape of the edge, then glued along the cut using K-36 glue

Processing of soft tile roof elements

Small roof elements are treated using rubber seals and sealing glue K-36.
In places where vertical penetrations are connected to the roof, a triangular strip is nailed. Along it, the tiles are placed on the surface of the roofing element and glued with glue.
The junction is covered with a strip of Pintari valley carpet, covered with a metal apron and sealed with K-36 glue.
The areas where vertical walls adjoin are mounted in the same way.
When installing a ridge, ridge tiles are used: the short side of the tile is glued parallel to the ridge, then the next layer of roofing is nailed to it under the overlap with nails.

Soft tiles can be classified as modern materials, although this is not entirely true. This product began to be used several centuries ago, and since then it has undergone repeated changes in composition and appearance. Today, soft tiles occupy a fairly high rating among consumers, because you can install them yourself, and if any difficulties arise, you can always find detailed video online.

Features of the material

Soft tile roofing consists of small tiles with curved edges. This material is based on fiberglass heavily impregnated with modified bitumen. The shingles are laid overlapping, and small nails, staples or felt pins are used as fasteners.

The fiberglass base can be reinforced or simple. If you prefer a more durable roofing surface, then choose a material with reinforcement, but keep in mind that the price of this product will be significantly higher. In addition, almost all types of this coating are equipped with a protective layer of mineral powder. It allows the material to withstand prolonged exposure to direct sunlight and does not allow damage to the surface under certain mechanical influences.

A roof made of soft tiles has the following advantages:

• Durability. The minimum service life of bituminous shingles is 30 years, and the maximum is more than 70. Thanks to such long-term use, you don’t have to worry about high construction costs, because everything will pay off several times over.
• Thanks to the protective substances included in the material, shingles have high weather resistance. They are not afraid high concentration moisture on the roof, not ultraviolet radiation, the main thing is that when installing the slope, the correct slope is selected.
• The finished roof has high aesthetic qualities. Thanks to great variety shapes and colors, you can create something unique so that all guests remain impressed for a long time.
• High elasticity The product allows you to lay them both on simple and complex rafter structures, for example, on hipped or domed ones.

IMPORTANT: Installation of a soft tile roof can be done independently and it is not necessary to have experience in construction. To simplify the process, draw the plane into the required zones, and attach the material clearly along the lines.

The composition of soft tiles includes the following layers:

• Protective coating (sprinkling)
• Modified bitumen
• Fiberglass
• Modified bitumen
• Protective film

Some modern varieties have a self-adhesive layer. This allows you to install shingles on the roof without any auxiliary fasteners or tools.

Nuances

All experienced roofers have in their arsenal some rules when working with this or that material. If you want to install a soft tile roof as correctly as possible, then you should remember them too. However, some manufacturers indicate them in the instructions, but, as a rule, not every buyer gets it.

• When installing tiles at temperatures less than 5-10 degrees above zero, the bottom layer of material may not melt on its own. To be on the safe side, it is better to use a gas burner or a special hairdryer, but this will slow down the whole procedure for a certain period of time, so styling is best done in the summer.
• Do not think that the higher the ambient temperature, the better it will be for the material. This is a misconception for which some developers have had to pay. At temperatures above 25 degrees, the bottom layer of goth heats up too much and this leads to problems such as fluidity. Bitumen sheets may begin to flow down the slope, which will lead to severe deformation of the roofing sheet.

• It is also not recommended to lay flexible material in weather with high humidity. The wood from which the rafter system and sheathing are created will become saturated and after installing soft tiles, serious problems with the formation of condensation will arise. The moisture in the roofing pie will try to escape, which will lead to peeling of the shingles, therefore, after a certain period you will need repairs.

IMPORTANT: The installation of a roof made of soft tiles should be carried out at a temperature of 10-20 degrees above zero and in dry weather, as the instructions say. If you value your time, then in less suitable conditions you can prepare materials and fill the necessary sheathing.

Creating a sheathing

The composition of a soft tile roof in this case should be as follows:

• Rafter legs
• Vapor barrier layer
• Counter-lattice
• First layer of sheathing
• Thermal insulation boards
• Second layer of sheathing
• Underlay carpet
• Coating

This roofing design made of soft tiles allows you to protect both the roofing pie itself and all underlying elements. Let's skip some components and talk about the sheathing, since it plays a very important role important role for the entire rafter system.

Lathing for soft roofing materials almost always must include 3 layers, namely: counter-lattice, discharged and continuous sheathing.

The counter-lattice performs such a useful function as ventilation of the under-roof space. To create it, beams with a width of 2 to 5 centimeters are used. The height of this element depends on the requirement for the ventilation gap, for example, in this case it is better to choose the maximum value, since such a roofing pie will constantly contain moisture due to complete insulation by the coating.

The second layer is created using the discharge method. For this procedure, it is best to use boards with a cross-section of 20x150 millimeters. If the counter-lattice is nailed parallel rafter legs, then the sheathing goes perpendicular. The pitch of the elements largely depends on the calculation, but most developers use a range from 30 to 50 centimeters.

The last layer is made of OSB boards or moisture-resistant plywood, however, some developers also use boards, but this will take a lot of wood and the created plane will be uneven. Even when creating a solid base, we must not forget about ventilation gaps; they should be there in any case. The optimal distance for this is 5-10 millimeters.

IMPORTANT: Before erecting the roofing part of the building, all lumber must be treated with protective solutions and thoroughly dried. It is not allowed to work with wood whose moisture content exceeds 20%.

Underlay carpet

As you probably already guessed, soft roofing is quite demanding of its base. In addition to all the layers that make up the roofing pie, it is very important to use a lining carpet or the so-called “bedding”. This product levels the entire surface and acts as a waterproofing layer. When arranging the bedding, it is also important to take into account some nuances, namely:

• If the roof slope is in the range from 15 to 18 degrees, then the lining carpet is laid over the entire plane. The overlap should be at least 15 centimeters, this will prevent possible moisture from flowing inside the cake.
• If the slope slope is more than 20 degrees, bedding can be applied locally, in the most important places. For example, on valleys, eaves overhangs and junction areas.

The lining material is created from moisture-resistant modified bitumen and replacing it with ordinary roofing felt is unacceptable. Most developers listen to the advice of soft tile manufacturers and purchase their underlays. Only in this way can maximum compatibility of the coating and other materials be achieved.

Laying soft tiles with your own hands

As has already been said many times in the article, soft tile roofing can be installed with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to follow a certain technology, and now I will describe it. If for some reason you don’t want to read or are simply sure that you won’t understand, then I suggest watching how to lay soft tiles with your own hands in the video.

remember, that optimal conditions For installation of this coating, the weather is dry and 10-20 degrees above zero.

• After preparatory work start marking. This is done using upholstery cord or any suitable tool, for example, a level and chalk.
• The installation of shingles itself begins from the bottom of the slope, i.e. from the cornice. There is a special shingle for this called “starting strip”. It is secured to the base using nails. When using self-adhesive products, no fastening is required. You need to be careful when using nails, because the shingle is attached at a distance of 3 centimeters from the edge, and the head of the hardware is driven flush.

• After the starting strip, the second layer of bitumen shingles is laid. This is best done on the left side. By the way, most developers shorten the first shingle by 14.3 centimeters; this will move the seams, as a result of which the roofing surface will become more resistant to precipitation.
• The third row is already shortened by 28.6 centimeters, again from the left edge.
• By trimming the subsequent shingles of each row, they fill the entire roof plane.
• After installing the main surface, proceed to the device auxiliary elements: ridge, valleys and others.

I hope the method I described “how to install soft tiles” is clear to you, in which case you can always rely on the video material located above.

Laying the roof correctly

During construction own home everything is important: and reliable foundation, And strong walls, and, of course, the roof. Its installation is carried out in several stages.

Every step requires care and precision. So, let's take a closer look at how to lay a roof.

Device pitched roof. 1 – Frame, 2 – Lower skin, 3 – Vapor barrier, 4 – Upper skin, 5 – Waterproofing, 6 – Insulation, 7 – Thermal insulation pad, 8 – Wall panel, 9 – Binding boards, 10 – Cornice.

First stage

Work on the construction of the roof should begin with a plan.

To compile it, it is necessary to correctly determine the appropriate type of roof. There are several of them.

1. Single-pitch. This is the simplest option. It is usually used in construction non-residential premises: warehouses, bathhouses, outbuildings, etc.
2. Gable. This is the most common and popular option. It is not difficult to bring it to life. Usually gable roof done in cottages, private houses, dachas. It consists of 2 slopes docked together.
3. Four-slope. Although this is difficult, it is very convenient option. There are tent, hip and half-hip types.

• the hip type consists of 4 slopes. 2 of them are made in the shape of a triangle, and the other 2 are in the shape of a trapezoid;
• half hip is a little different.

  At the top it consists of 2 slopes, and at the bottom of 4;

• the tent type consists of 4 identical slopes. Their shape is isosceles triangles.

After choosing the type of roof, you need to decide on the material for the roof, because the design of the rafter system depends on this.

Gable roof diagram.

The heaviest roofing covering is natural tiles.

To properly lay such a roof, a solid foundation, strong walls and a very strong rafter system are required. But slate and metal tiles weigh much less. It's easier to put them down. Here the requirements for rafters are not so strict. That is why it is necessary to resolve the issue of roofing material in advance.

The eye-pleasing 45-degree slope is suitable for areas with high rainfall. But for windy steppe areas, you need to choose a flatter option.

Progress of installation work

The next stage is the installation of the rafter system. This requires:

• timber, slats and boards;
• waterproofing film;
• nails, screws and bolts;
• insulation;
• saw, jigsaw;
• hammer;
• screwdriver

Diagram of the roof structure with rafters.

Step one.

Along the entire upper perimeter of the walls, it is necessary to properly secure a kind of foundation for the future rafter system - the Mauerlat. It is a thick, strong beam. When installing it, you must use a level to avoid distortions. The fastening of the Mauerlat to the walls must be of high quality and reliable.

Anchor bolts are best suited for this purpose. As a rule, they are installed during the pouring of the reinforcing belt. In this case, the ends of the bolts are left free for subsequent installation of the Mauerlat.

Step two.

Installation of the rafter system. Beams or boards are usually used as rafters. Because this system will bear a heavy load, you should not engage in unnecessary savings.

Roof materials must be strong and durable. The rafters are attached to each other using additional elements- ties, jumpers, spacers. It is very important that each beam, on one side, rests against the Mauerlat, and on the other, docks with the opposite element. The size of the step between the rafters depends on the future roofing. The greater the weight of the material that will be installed on the roof, the smaller the distance between the beams.

Step three.

Installation of sheathing. Slats are attached across the already mounted rafters. The step between them is determined by the characteristics of the selected roofing material.

Insulation and protection

Protective layers must be installed on the roof in a certain order: vapor barrier layer, insulation, waterproofing.

You can use different materials as insulation.

Most often used mineral wool. This is a durable, lightweight and harmless material. You can also use polystyrene foam, but it is flammable and toxic.

The insulation must be placed on the roof correctly. First, it is placed between the beams of the rafter system, and then along the entire perimeter of the sheathing.

It is very good if the layer thickness is not 5, but 10 cm. This will help protect the house from cold and excess noise more reliably. To do this, the insulation is laid out in 2 layers.

Scheme of insulation of a pitched roof.

Next comes the installation of the vapor barrier film. To do this, it is stretched from the inside under the already laid insulation and attached to the beams using a stapler. It is necessary to protect the thermal insulation layer from excess moisture.

It should be laid very carefully.

And finally, the final stage is covering the roof with roofing material. It is known that different roofing has different features. For everything to work out correctly, you need to take them into account. Otherwise, it will not be possible to make a high-quality roof.

Ruberoid is laid in 2 layers. This provides reliable waterproofing. The order of application is from bottom to top with an overlap of 140 mm.

DIY installation instructions for flexible tiles

The first layer is placed on the roof along the slope, and the second layer is placed across it. Before fixing, the soft roof should be leveled. Screws or nails are used as fasteners.

Slate is a simple and inexpensive roofing option. Before installing it on the roof, it is necessary to check the quality of the sheets. There shouldn't be a marriage. Then you need to mark the places for fastening on the sheathing and make holes in advance using a drill. There are 2 ways to lay slate: cutting corners or staggering rows.

The first option is suitable for high slopes of small width. The second method is used for flat roofs.

Metal tiles are the most common roofing option. Its advantages: light weight, durability, attractive appearance. The main drawback is poor sound insulation, but this can easily be corrected with additional measures for noise protection. General rules installation of metal tiles are as follows:

• the sheets are attached to the sheathing in the deflection of the wave;
• mounting order: bottom to top;
• each sheet of metal tile is smoothed to the sheathing;
• material for fastening - short self-tapping screws (19 cm).

Natural tiles are very heavy.

The installation order is from bottom to top. Fastening material: galvanized screws.

Here are the main points of roof installation. Even if specialists are hired to carry out the work, knowledge of the basic design features will never be superfluous.

Based on materials from the site: http://1metallocherepica.ru

Features of flexible roofing material
Installation of soft roofing
Do-it-yourself roof sheathing
Laying underlay carpet
How to cover a roof with soft tiles

A roof covered with bitumen shingles is aesthetically pleasing, durable, and easy to use. Its big advantage is the ability self-installation. There is nothing complicated about how to cover a roof with a soft roof with your own hands, since the weight of the material is small, installation is carried out on an adhesive base with additional fixation with nails.

Currently, this type of coverage has become popular among property owners. A do-it-yourself soft roof made of bitumen shingles has a very attractive appearance; it is characterized by increased moisture resistance and a long service life.

On the back side of this roofing material there is a self-adhesive layer. Thanks to its presence, it is possible to install a soft tile roof with your own hands in the absence of the appropriate skills.

Features of flexible roofing material

Soft tiles are tiles with a curved edge.

It is made of fiberglass, which is impregnated with petroleum bitumen modified by polymers. When arranging the roof, the material is laid overlapping so that an imitation of a shingle covering made of wooden blocks is created.

The fiberglass contained in such tiles can be ordinary or reinforced polyester. During the manufacturing process, the outer side of the material is covered with a special coating made from basalt or stone chips, due to which the roof has a rough surface and a certain color.

The advantages of bituminous shingles include:

1. Aesthetic appearance.

   Do-it-yourself installation of flexible tiles: step-by-step instructions on how to carry out the work

   Since the material is produced in a variety of color solutions and shapes, it is possible to give the house a harmonious image.

2. Long service life. A soft roof can be used for at least 70 years and during this period the costs of its installation will be fully recouped.
3. Flexibility. Elastic products allow you to install a soft roof complex shapes, with many decorative elements.
4. Resistance to adverse weather conditions.

   A soft roof can withstand the effects of ultraviolet radiation, precipitation and other environmental factors while maintaining performance characteristics.

The technology for laying tiles is simple and therefore even a home craftsman can easily arrange a soft roof roof with his own hands for a country cottage, country house, gazebos and other buildings.

Installation of soft roofing

Before you make a soft roof with your own hands, you need to make sure you have solid foundation. According to the installation technology of this material, the work can be performed under specific weather conditions.

1. When installed at air temperatures less than plus 5 degrees, the self-adhesive layer available with reverse side tiles cannot melt on their own.

   To do this forcibly, you will need to use construction hair dryer or gas burner. But the melting of bitumen will affect the installation time of the soft roof.

2. When this material is laid at a temperature exceeding 25 degrees, the self-adhesive layer begins to melt strongly and flow down the slope.

   At high temperature conditions deformation of the roofing occurs.

3. If installation work is carried out in conditions high humidity, this will negatively affect the durability of the sheathing, rafters and the tiles themselves due to rotting.

The manufacturer's instructions for installing a soft roof with your own hands prescribe that this should be done exclusively at air temperatures from 5 to 15 degrees, when the weather is dry.

Do-it-yourself roof sheathing

First of all, you need to make a reliable crate. According to the technology for installing soft coverings, there must be a solid base that will give the soft covering of the roof the required strength and rigidity.

The presence of the lathing guarantees an even distribution of the load on the rafters, so it is made of three layers:

1. Counter-lattice. It is built from wooden blocks 3–4 centimeters thick and mounted on top of the waterproofing along the rafter frame legs.

   This layer serves to create an air gap between the covering and the rafters.

2. Sparse sheathing. This part of the base for soft material is made from edged boards measuring 20x150 millimeters. The elements are fixed perpendicular to the bars of the counter-lattice with an interval of 30–50 centimeters.
3. Continuous sheathing. It is built from moisture-resistant plywood, edged boards or OSB boards.

   They are laid continuously with a small gap of 1–3 millimeters, which serves to compensate for the thermal expansion of the sheathing.

Before laying a soft roof, the wood elements must be made smooth so that they do not damage the tiles.

It is better to use softwood material with 20% humidity. To prevent the wood from starting to rot, the products must be treated with antiseptic compounds. To eliminate the risk of fire, the lathing is impregnated with fire-resistant preparations.

Laying underlay carpet

There is a certain procedure for how to properly lay a soft roof. It is mounted on a continuous sheathing. A bitumen lining carpet that is resistant to mechanical stress is placed on top of the base.

He protects roof structure from leaks and damage.

According to the technology for installing the underlay carpet:

• if the roof slope is less than 15-18 degrees, it is laid out over the entire area of ​​the slopes with a 15-20 cm overlap, so that if the snow melts, moisture does not linger;
• if the angle of inclination is more than 20 degrees, the lining is laid exclusively in places where precipitation can accumulate - such additional waterproofing is used to protect the joints of soft roofing on slopes with vertical surface, valleys and ridge;
• Roofing felt cannot be used for lining, as it is fragile and will not last long.

According to professionals, as a backing layer you need to use products recommended by manufacturers, since it is guaranteed to be compatible with the purchased tiles.

How to cover a roof with soft tiles

Installation should be performed when it is calm and dry outside. When laying on a previously used rafter frame first check the condition wooden elements and replace those that are deformed or rotten.

Installation work is performed in a certain order:

1. Using a pre-prepared drawing of a soft roof, mark the surface of the slope with chalk horizontal stripes, noting the placement of rows of tiles.
2. Laying begins from the bottom of the slope, fixing the roofing with special nails. If the fastening is carried out using a self-adhesive layer, you need to remove the protective film from the tile and press the product to the base.

   The nails are driven in no closer than 2.5 centimeters from the edge, flush with the surface of the tile.

3. The next row begins on the left side. 143 millimeters are cut off from the tile on the left, shifting the pattern diagonally.
4. To begin laying the third row, a fragment of 286 millimeters in length is removed from the product from the left edge so that the pattern of the material moves in the diagonal direction.
5. After completing the work, draw up ridge element ridge and valley junctions having a vertical surface.

To ensure the proper functioning of a roof made of bitumen shingles and to prevent the “greenhouse effect”, it is necessary to equip ventilation system and thereby prevent rotting of the rafter structure.

Is it possible to lay a soft roof in winter?

Soft roofing is a modern material that has good technological characteristics, is in demand on the market, and work with it is carried out in practice all year round.

The Russian climate is characterized by a long cold period and there is often a need or desire to cover the roof at lower temperatures.

Won't this have serious consequences?

Soft tiles are a fiberglass canvas with a bitumen-polymer coating applied to both sides. It is this layer that is responsible for all the most important functions - it is both a waterproofing agent and an adhesive at the same time. In its pure form, bitumen easily melts when the temperature rises and quickly hardens when it drops - for roofing this is more of a disadvantage than an advantage.

Technologists have found a way to neutralize this flaw: modified polymer compounds are added to bitumen, which improve the properties of the material. As a result, it melts less, does not harden as much in the cold, and does not lose its properties under unfavorable conditions.

In practice, this means that modern soft roofing “does not float” in direct sunlight and “does not harden” in the cold, and its installation can be done at any temperature.

Do-it-yourself soft roofing

Flexible bitumen shingles can withstand temperatures from -55° C to + 110° C, and the adhesive joint strength can withstand -35° C.

These are the temperature limits that are most comfortable for a person and favorable for the manifestation of the best technological properties material.

From + 5° C and above, soft roofing and mastics are the most flexible and do not require additional softening with hair dryers - the installation process is carried out at optimal speed without involving aids. Read more about installing soft tiles here.

How do low temperatures affect the coating?

At subzero temperatures, the bitumen layer becomes less plastic, hardens, and the polymerization process slows down.

Work can be carried out, but the material must be brought into a warm room with optimal temperature, and then bring it to the installation site in batches of several packages.

If the frost is severe, then the packages with roofing material should warm up well in a heated room for 1–2 days.

During the installation process, you will need to use a construction hair dryer - heating the tiles and mastics before installation will increase the plasticity of the materials and ensure better adhesion of the shingles to each other.

Working in the cold increases the number of procedures and manipulations, while simultaneously reducing the speed.

What to do if the base gets wet?

You cannot carry out work when it is raining, snowing or starting installation without waiting for the base to dry.

The base must be dry - otherwise, under the sealed underlayment, wet OSB sheets, plywood or boards (depending on what it is made of) will rot in 2-3 years, and the roof will become unusable.

To be or not to be?

Whether or not to install a soft roof in winter is a matter for everyone to decide for themselves.

It makes more sense to plan roof installation in the spring, when there are more sunny days, higher air temperatures, less rain - ideal conditions for roofing works. And in winter, it is quite possible to carry out preparations so as not to waste time during the construction season, and to purchase building materials - during this period the price for them is usually reduced.