How kitchens are made. How to make a kitchen set with your own hands: useful information. How to install a kitchen unit

In our country, people assemble furniture in their apartments on their own. How much is this the right decision– each owner must decide for himself. In our article we will describe how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands.

To get a quality result, any work requires preparation. Kitchen assembly is no exception.

Step 1

Check the availability and functionality of all necessary tools. Charge the screwdriver battery and prepare the jigsaw. Electrical equipment can be replaced with mechanical tools, but this will only increase the time and complexity of kitchen installation.

You may also need:

Step 2

Review the delivered set of furniture for defects and the presence of all elements. If you find a shortage or mismatch, you can contact the supplier or buy in addition what is missing yourself.

Step 3

Read the instructions for assembling the kitchen furniture set you purchased. In kitchens produced by different manufacturers, there may be some installation features that should be taken into account.

Step 4

Remove everything unnecessary from the room to make room for assembly, remove all garbage. Floors must be clean.

Note! To avoid damaging the cabinets during installation flooring, you can cover the floor with a tarpaulin or other cloth.

After preparing and checking the tools, furniture elements and premises, you can begin the assembly itself.

Nuances of assembling a kitchen set

In order to properly assemble the kitchen, you must first familiarize yourself with the features and installation rules.

Installation of kitchen furniture begins from the corner, if the set is corner. A linear kitchen begins to be assembled from the cabinet that will rest against the wall.
It is not recommended to assemble all cabinets at once. Only after one is installed in place assembled module, begin to collect the next one. This helps avoid cluttering the space.
There should be a distance of half a centimeter between the countertop and the wall.
You should not install fronts on the upper cabinets right away. Without doors it will be easier to hang the modules.
Guides for drawers attached to inner surface side walls until the cabinets are assembled.

Kitchen installation

Opinions are divided on whether to start installing a kitchen with upper or lower cabinets. Some experts believe that already installed floor cabinets can interfere with the installation process hanging cabinets. According to other furniture makers, you need to start from the bottom row, from which the mounting height is already measured upper cabinets.

You can choose the option that is convenient for you. We will describe the first case. But first, we need to tell you the general principle of assembling cabinets and drawers.

How to properly assemble headset elements

One of the most convenient devices The kitchen unit includes drawers. If we are talking about narrow cabinets, for example, about bottle holders, then the guides for the drawers are secured in them before the box itself is assembled. If the cabinet is wide enough, then installation of all fastenings for drawers is carried out after assembling the module.

At the preliminary stage, the crosspiece from the door hinges is also attached to the designated places. After this, they proceed directly to assembling the box.

Step 1. They take side wall drawer and place it end-to-end on a flat surface so that the front part looks up.

Step 2. Join the cabinet wall to the bottom at right angles and secure the connection with confirmations. In factory kitchens, holes for Euroscrews are usually already prepared.

Step 3. The other side wall is attached in the same way.

Step 4. After this, two upper strips are installed if the lower pedestals are being assembled. Wall cabinets have a lid installed.

Note! The ends of the side walls should be flush with the bottom, as well as the lid or top strips.

Step 5. Place the cabinet with the front side down on a flat surface and measure its diagonals, the difference between the lengths of which should not be more than 1.5 mm.

Step 6. Fix the back wall of the cabinet with staples or nails, placing them at a distance of 7 cm from each other. To make the rear part more durable, some experts use nails and furniture staples screws are used.

Note! The cabinet above which the sink will be installed does not have a back wall, but is often equipped with an additional stiffening rib.

Step 7 Adjustable legs are attached to the bottom of floor cabinets. The distance from them to the nearest edges should be about 50 mm. Legs can be metal or plastic.

In the first case, they perform not only support, but also decorative function. Upon completion of kitchen installation, plastic products are covered with a plinth strip. Suspended structures supplied with loops for mounting to the wall.

The drawer is assembled according to the same principle.

Step 1. Four planks are connected to each other at right angles to form a box.

Step 2. Diagonals are measured, the lengths of which should not differ from each other.

Step 3. The guides are fixed to the side walls of the box.

Step 4. Mount the front of the box using screws. Sometimes the front wall of the box can serve as a facade. In this case, it is attached to the side crossbars using an eccentric. But such a design is rarely found in modern kitchens.

We measure the diagonal, both diagonals should be the same

It is better to assemble the drawers after the upper cabinets and lower cabinets have been assembled and installed.

As noted above, so that the lower row of cabinets does not interfere, many experts recommend hanging the upper cabinets first.

First of all, correctly mark the mounting location. To do this, set aside the height from the floor at which the bottom of the cabinets will be located. If the person who will work in the kitchen most often is of average height, then it is recommended to measure 1.3 - 1.4 m for the bottom of the cabinet. Then, from this mark, the height of the cabinets themselves is also set upward and a line is marked where the fasteners will be installed. The line must be smooth and horizontal, which is checked using the mounting level.

Note! The distance between the tabletop and the upper section should be about 0.6 m. Therefore, if you decide to start installation from the lower cabinets, then measure this distance upward from them to select the mounting height of the upper cabinets.

You can hang cabinets in different ways:

the traditional option involves the use of mounting loops;
in the second case, a rail is used, which is mounted to the wall, and a kind of hook attached to the back wall of the cabinet and clinging to the rail.

Note! An exhaust air duct and a gas pipe often pass through the upper section of the headset. For this reason, in all cabinets it is necessary to first cut out holes for these communications using a jigsaw or hacksaw. All cut areas must be treated with sealant.

The first method of installing wall cabinets includes the following steps.

along the line drawn on the wall, mark the place of the first fastening and drill a hole with a hammer drill;
fasteners are inserted into the hole;
hang the cabinet on one hinge on the mount and, continuing to hold the module, level it using a spirit level and mark the place where you need to drill a hole for the second fastener for this cabinet;
After installing the second fastener, hang and finally level the cabinet.

This procedure is repeated for all cabinets.

The second mounting method makes it easier to install the upper section. It should be taken into account that in this case it is not possible to attach the cabinets flush to the wall. This installation of upper cabinets, although expensive, is very simple:

first, a special metal strip is attached along the line drawn on the wall;
To upper corners special hanging devices like hooks are screwed onto the back wall of the cabinets using screws;
hook the hooks onto the rail;
level the cabinet.

When the entire top row is mounted and leveled, the cabinets need to be tightened together with furniture screws.

Installation of lower cabinets

After the installation of the upper sections is completed, you can begin installing the floor cabinets.

Note! In the lower cabinets you will also need to make holes and recesses for sewer, water and gas pipes, as well as for connecting electrical appliances to the network.

Step 1. Starting from the corner, the cabinet is installed in place.

Step 2. Adjust the legs of the cabinet.

Step 3. Other cabinets are also installed and adjusted in height.

Step 4. They tighten the adjacent cabinets with a clamp, and then with a furniture tie.

After this, the tabletop is installed on the cabinets. First you need to cut out a hole in it with a jigsaw for washing.

To do this, lay the tabletop on the cabinets the way it will lie after installation.
Then choose the location of the sink and mark it with a pencil.
A hole is cut out using a jigsaw along the marked contour in the table top.
Treat the cut with silicone sealant.

If necessary, a hole is made in the countertop for the hob and for communications.

After this, you can put the table cover back in place. This is often done using furniture corners that are screwed to the side walls of cabinets. The tabletop is laid on the cabinets and leveled.

If the lid of the cabinets consists of two parts, then they are connected using metal strips as follows:

Using a hacksaw, the plank is cut to the width of the tabletop;
coat one surface of the plank with sealant;
attach it with screws to the cut of the tabletop;
Lubricate the other surface of the metal rail with sealant and immediately join it to the other part of the table top.

After this, fix the tabletop on the cabinets by screwing screws into the holes in the furniture corners.

Final stage

Completing the installation does not require as much physical effort as it does require careful work. After all, the appearance of the headset depends on this stage.

At the junction of the countertop and the wall there is a gap, which is covered with a plinth.
After this, the doors are hung. They are adjusted using special hinge bolts.
At the same stage, drawers and built-in appliances are installed, lighting fixtures are installed, and the facades and basement plan are installed.
I put it in place and connect the sink.

The kitchen is now ready for use.

Also read on our website an article about do-it-yourself kitchen facades.

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands

Video - How to assemble a kitchen with your own hands. Hanging cabinets

Video - How to assemble a drawer

Video - Inserting a sink into a countertop

Modern life makes demands on housing, among which there is not only beauty, but also functionality. Every person knows that multifunctional appliances have a high cost, just like an aesthetically furnished kitchen. Modern kitchen set good quality will cost a hefty sum. Despite the fact that the concept of “inexpensive” has different limits for each person, a family with an average income will not be able to afford such a purchase. For this reason, many families try to make kitchen furniture with their own hands. From this article you will learn how to assemble a kitchen set with your own hands and what you will need for this.

Features and Benefits

To make your own furniture, you don’t have to be a carpenter or joiner. All you need is desire and availability of free time, as well as tools. When creating furniture with your own hands, you will receive the following advantages:

individual project of exclusive quality;
financial savings;
new experience;
enjoying manual work;
Of no small importance is the fact that a kitchen created according to certain brands will fit perfectly into the interior of your kitchen.

There are several ways in which you can implement your plans. For example, you can contact a specialized company where they will provide you with cutting and edging services, or you can buy already ready-made components. The last option is the simplest. However, in this case, your headset will have standard sizes. There is a third option, which involves making full-fledged kitchen furniture yourself.

How to make it yourself

You can make homemade table for the kitchen using available materials. Initially, you need to decide on the dimensions, and how to prepare a sketch in any other work. You can draw a sketch from scratch yourself or use ready-made option. You can take the drawing as a basis or add the necessary details.

With your own hands you can create not only a kitchen set, but also a transforming table, high chair for the kitchen, or furniture for the garden. You can read the instructions for making furniture in more detail below.

Materials

First of all, you should decide on the material from which you will make the furniture. IN modern world There are many solutions, and each product has its own features and advantages.

As a rule, wood is the basis of any furniture. Many people use it in their chipboard work European production, because it has best characteristics compared to Russian products. If you prefer MDF, remember that it requires further painting.

MDF is more expensive than chipboard and better in quality. This material can be used to create decorative elements, and it is also convenient for molding. In some cases, MDF is superior to natural wood in density, which is why it is in demand on the Russian market.

If you are a supporter of natural and healthy materials, you can make a kitchen set from wood. Remember that such furniture will be sensitive to changes in temperature and humidity. Each workpiece will need to be treated with a special impregnation and antiseptic.

Table tops are made of chipboard, MDF and natural wood. The main load falls on this part, so many experts advise using natural or artificial stone in their work.

Some elements, such as the bottom of the drawers, can be made from plywood, as well as the side parts.

Furniture panels have gained popularity today. They are a wooden product made in the form of a shield. Such a shield is glued together from several parts using special glue. Several wood species can act as a material:

birch;
pine;
larch;
aspen;
cedar.

Kitchen set from furniture board more convenient because it is present wide choose standard sizes.

OSB boards Suitable as decoration, for example for covering an apron area, or for creating an original shelf. They are also used to make openwork cabinets and bookshelves in other rooms.

You can also make kitchen furniture from plasterboard. To the benefits of this material low cost and availability, along with ease of use. GKL sheets can accept any fastening, even glue. All you need to do is calculate the load. Each product should be decorated with finishing materials, because in original form GCR is not attractive.

Brick kitchen furniture deserves special attention. This style is called “walled”. He is not very popular, but he still has fans. Brick furniture looks impressive in the room and gives it solidity. This material will look best on large kitchen, since it will be difficult small space place full lockers.

Required Tools

For self-made furniture you will need to prepare the following tools:

electric drill;
electric jigsaw;
screwdriver

Don’t forget about furniture hinges, confirmants, self-tapping screws, dowels, drills, a pencil and a tape measure.

Preparing all the necessary components will help you quickly complete the task and not be distracted by shopping trips.

Step-by-step instruction

Using these instructions, you will be able to assemble the kitchen set yourself and avoid possible mistakes that may occur during the work process:

The first step is to take measurements and create a sketch. Take accurate measurements of the room and record them on paper. Draw the room in a scale convenient for you so that the finished kitchen set fits into it with maximum benefit.

Decide where the sink and stove will be located. If the current arrangement of the furniture does not suit you, indicate on the drawing the place where you will move them. The issue of the location of the stove should be thought through to the smallest detail, because the dimensions of the kitchen furniture depend on it. Consider the dimensions of the refrigerator and its location.

Now follows the received free space enter kitchen furniture. Consider not only the bottom row, but also the top cabinets and the hood.

If you have the opportunity, you can order the required components for the kitchen, taking into account the selected dimensions. When calculating the parameters, pay special attention to the size of the drawers. The size will depend on these dimensions decorative facade. Solving the issue with the location of the shelves will help you decide on the required quantity.
Remember to record all measurements in your sketch and decide what type of material will be optimal for your kitchen.

Restoration

Most people will agree that only the most patient person can restore old furniture, since this process comparable to real art. Not every person will like to work with a headset, gradually restoring the previous appearance of the products.

To make out old furniture decent product, you will need to carry out the following activities to create a new design:

carefully disassemble the product;
carry out cleaning and rinsing;
eliminate defects in the varnish surface;
work with wood defects;
carry out repairs and strengthen fastenings;
wood should be painted and primed;
decorate the appearance of furniture using “aging”, varnishing, painting and polishing.

Most challenging task is the restoration of the table, or rather the alteration of its legs. To do this, you will need to remove the old veneer and restore its original shape using liquid wood.

Assembling the finished headset

Sections of components must be edged in advance. They are first sanded using sandpaper. After this, the edge tape is applied to the cut site and glued using a hot iron or a hair dryer.

If you use a regular iron, then when gluing it is necessary to attach a piece of thin material to the edge.

Trim the edges when cool. This technique can make the furniture attractive and keep it from swelling under high humidity.

The next step is to mark and drill holes for mounting and shelf holders. Do not rush to work with the drill, because a mistake will lead to a through hole.

The cabinets are assembled like a box. Vertical bars should be attached to the lower horizontal surface. side walls. The lid is screwed on last.

Roller guides must be installed using building level. They should be positioned horizontally and parallel to each other. Otherwise, the boxes cannot be placed in the designated space.

The legs are installed on a fully assembled and inverted cabinet. The front part needs to be installed last, after which they are hinged to the side wall.

To update your interior, you can use simple techniques decor:

themed stickers on the wall and ceramic tiles;
ornament using a stencil;
various panels and signs;
painting furniture and walls.

Such decorative elements can give furniture or individual elements bright accent. Interesting stickers are sold in various stores or you can cut them yourself from self-adhesive film. A decorated area above the table, on the apron area or above the work surface will add style to the kitchen interior.

For small rooms, you should select decorations with small and elegant elements, and for large or empty walls, you should purchase large pieces.

Stencil painting looks very stylish on kitchen furniture. You can make a pattern from thick cardboard or plastic and create an original ornament. Artistic painting will look very stylish.

The following items will look great in the kitchen interior:

various plates;
cutlery;
wine corks;
seashells and pebbles;
molds made of paper and silicone, as well as pasta.

If your kitchen furniture differs from the beautiful and fashionable interiors, do not be upset. With help creative ideas, which you can implement with your own hands, a standard set will turn into a real work of art.

How to decorate furniture:

coloring;
decoupage;
non-standard fittings;
plastic decorative overlays with imitation carvings;
film.

(Photos of the kitchen are available to enlarge)

Preface.

I continue Full description the process of designing, manufacturing and installing kitchen units. I proceed to the third part of the description, to a detailed description of the nodes and constructive solutions. Let's look at the drawings and assembly diagrams of the project. Drawings of kitchen furniture.

Part 3.

Drawings and assembly diagrams of kitchen sections.

For a more convenient consideration of each element, we will number the kitchen sections, starting from the bottom, so that everything goes in order and there is no confusion. For No. 1. Let's take the main section, which determines the entire look and dimensions of the kitchen - this is the kitchen pencil case. Kitchen drawings:

In description kitchen sections, the drawings will not contain dimensions for fasteners, only the dimensions of the parts themselves. Much has been written and said about fasteners in other articles on this site. I will provide fasteners only in those places where there are some special points that need to be discussed.

Section No. 1. Pencil case.

Drawing.	Scheme:	Behind:	Front:	Table tops:

Detailing with an edge mark, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram of the pencil case.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Right side.	2320 \|	630 \| \|	1
2	Left side.	2204 \|	630 \|	1
3	Bottom detail.	630 \| \|	150 - 160 \| \|	1
4	Connections	630	488 \| \|	2
5	Removable shelves.	550	486 \| \|	3
6	Base plate - connection.	564 \| \|	100 \|	1
7	Door, false wall.	1340 \| \|	484 \| \|	1
8	False wall.	2220	60	1	attaches to left side
Facades.
	Frame facade, glass.	1365	516	1	AGT Profile.
	Lower blind façade.	848	516	1	MDF facade(PVC).

The strange design of the sides and bottom of the pencil case is made for such reasons that when the pencil case is installed and tied together with intersection ties with the adjacent section, then with the plinth installed, it will be very problematic to regulate the installation of the pencil case on crooked floors. And so there are some opportunities and access. It would be possible to completely abandon such an ersatz bottom, but in the future the customer planned to install a 150 mm cargo mesh in this gap between the boiler and the sidewall in order to fill the space as usefully as possible.

The back wall of the pencil case is also a door for access to communications, exhaust duct and inspection hatch. To do this, the removable shelves are removed and the door-wall opens freely. The door is installed on furniture insert (internal) hinges . Shelf supports do not interfere with opening.

Section No. 2. Hob and oven.

Drawing:	Scheme:	Box drawing:

Opening:	Side view:	Oven plan:

Detailing of the section with an edge mark, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	704 \| \|	580 \|	2
2	Bottom.	580 \| \|	600 \| \|	1
3	Connection.	580	568 \| \|	1
4	Side of the box.	550 \|	40	2
5	Box details.	510 \|	40	2
6	Box lid.	476 \| \|	542 \| \|	1
7	Opening bar.	70 \| \|	542 \| \|	1
8	Bottom of the box.	550	542	1	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facade.
	Drawer front.	120	596	1	MDF.

Drawing:	Scheme:	Boxes:	Guides:

The fronts are attached to the drawer panels with self-tapping screws and secured with through screws of furniture handles. Cm. .

Detailing box section.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	704 \| \|	580 \|	2
2	Bottom.	580 \| \|	260 \| \|	1
3	Connection.	228 \| \|	70	2
4	Side of a small box.	550 \|	100	4
	Side of a large box.	550 \|	140	4
5	Small drawer panels.	170 \|	100	4
	Large box panels.	170 \|	140	4
6	Bottom of the box.	550	202	4	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facades.
	Facade of small boxes.	140	256	2	MDF.
	Facade of large boxes.	215	256	2	MDF.

Extended information:

Section No. 4. Cabinet under the sink.

Section for sink. Made without a back wall for access to communications. Section width 580 mm, 2 cm less than standard module for kitchen sink . Despite its reduced dimensions, the section is well suited for installing the sink provided for in this project. This standard round sink with a diameter of 510 mm . and depth 200 mm.

Drawing:	Scheme:	With facades:

Detailing sections for washing.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	704 \| \|	580 \|	2
2	Bottom.	580 \| \|	580 \| \|	1
3	Connection.	548 \| \|	70	2	vertical
Facade.
	Facade to the kitchen section.	716	286	2	MDF film .

Section No. 5. Dish dryer cabinet.

The upper kitchen section is designed to install a built-in dish dryer. The back wall of the section is made in the form of a panel that opens on hinges, allowing access to communications located at the back of the kitchen.

Dish draining rack, frameless, metal with white acrylic coating.

Drawing:	Scheme:	Back view:	Panel:	Drying:	Front:

Frameless dish dryer with acrylic coating and fastening fragment.

Extended information:

Installation of a frame kitchen drying rack for dishes .

Design. The rear wall of the section is made in the form of an opening panel - a door, which is attached to the vertical bar using equidistant loop . The need to use vertical slats is due to the fact that drying fasteners may interfere with opening the door. The strips allow you to move the panel opening axis away from the fasteners. Planks different widths. Narrow, right (see sketches) strip 40 mm wide. The left bar is slightly wider, 60 mm wide. This width is necessary for installing equal furniture hinges on which the door opens (see sketch: Rear view).

Equivalent loop, photo and installation diagram:

Detailing sections for drying dishes, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewall.	920 \|	340 \| \|	2
2	Connections (top, bottom).	468 \|	340	2
3	Shelf.	466 \| \|	270 \| \|	1	removable shelf
4	Hinge bar, wide.	888 \|	60	1	for attaching hinges
5	The bar is narrow.	888 \|	40	1	for removal from fastenings
6	Opening panel.	884 \| \|	364 \| \|	1	rear panel - door
Facade.
	Facade for a kitchen dryer.	916	486	1	MDF film .

Section No. 6. Corner kitchen section for gas meter.

Upper corner section designed to hide the gas meter. The design of the section allows you to quite conveniently use all the remaining free space; for this purpose, two shelves cut at an angle are placed inside.

The front narrow sidewall of the section is made of facade material, i.e. from film MDF, without gaps, according to the dimensions of the housing part.

The main parts of this section are: connections (parts No. 2) and shelves (parts No. 3), one side of which is cut at an angle, which forms the corner section itself. The facade is attached using two corner hinges at +30 o. The springs and the stroke of the hinge are quite enough to tightly pull the facade to the body with not a full stroke (-1 o) of the hinge.

The narrow sidewall of the section (part No. 5) is made of MDF, just like the kitchen facades. It is attached to the connections (No. 2) and the right rear pillar (Part No. 4) of the section using dowels so that the fastening parts do not extend to the front side.

The drawing does not indicate the dimensions of the shelves, and this is correct. The shelves are planned to be installed locally, depending on how the gas meter is installed. It is also better to cut the shelves for the meter pipes locally, because when designing there is a high risk of not guessing exactly how much needs to be cut. Therefore, trim the shelves and install shelf supports under them better during installation. This will be discussed in detail when describing the kitchen installation.

Extended information:

Typical 45 degree kitchen corner section .

Detailing corner section, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Left side.	920 \|	340 \| \|	1	fits with drying
2	Connections (top, bottom).	620 \|	328	2	cut at 149 (31) degrees.
3	Shelf.	618 \|	310	2	cut at 149 (31) degrees.
4	Rear pillars.	888 \|	140	2	for wall mounting
5	Front sidewall (narrow).	920	160	1	facade material MDF
6	Back wall.	918	342	1	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facade.
	Facade to a corner section.	916	327	1	MDF film .

Section No. 7. Hood section.

The last section in this project is the hood cabinet. The design is very simple, sides, connections, shelves. Installed between the pencil case section and the cabinet for drying dishes.

An addition to the section is an opening panel for access to gas valves.

Drawing:	Scheme:	Back view:	General form:

Section depth 300 mm. In the case of a cabinet for a hood, there is no point in making the depth 340 mm, since it will not rest on the working panel. The section will be attached to intersection ties between the pencil case and the section for drying dishes. Moreover, if you make the depth 340 mm. and secure the hood to its entire depth, then the lighting in the hood will work at the end of the working wall. And so, nothing interferes with the hood.

When implementing the project “live”, problems arose with this section, or rather not with the section itself, but with the hood. At first, a suspended hood was designed, as in the sketch. But when all the sections were ready and the kitchen went for installation, it turned out that the customer had purchased a hood not at all according to the project, but a built-in telescopic one. Cabinet design for telescopic hood somewhat different. The solution to this problem was found simple and without losses, incl. and in appearance. This will be discussed in detail in the sequel, which describes the installation of the kitchen. All that was needed was to cut out a small part from the remains and slightly trim the opening panel (part No. 6).

The difference between hanging hoods and built-in ones:

Door panel for access to gas valves. Project diagram. It is installed on a horizontal bar on internal (inset) hinges, which in turn is attached on confirmations to the work wall made of a tabletop. A furniture plastic corner (see photo), screwed to the adjacent section, serves as a stop for the closed door so that it does not fall inside; the same plastic corner serves as a handle.

Door diagram:	Calculation and side view:	Pipe access door:

Detailing sections for exhaust hood, compiled according to the drawing and assembly diagram.

	Name	size X	size U	PC	note
1	Sidewalls.	620 \|	300 \| \|	2
2	Connections (top, bottom).	568 \|	300	2
3	Shelves.	566 \| \|	280 \| \|	2
4	Back wall.	618	598	1	Laminated fiberboard - 3 mm.
Facades.
	Facade to a corner section.	614	296	2	MDF film .

The hood is attached to bottom connection sections using self-tapping screws 4x16, from inside the hood through its body. First, before installing the hood, a hole for the exhaust duct is cut out in the lower connection.

When calculating the height of the facades for this section, it is necessary to take into account extra clearance along the bottom of the facades. Typically, the height of facades is 4 mm. smaller than the housing, and when installed on the upper section, they are aligned with the lower edge of the housing. In the section intended for installation of the hood, it is also necessary to provide a gap at the bottom, between the facade and the body of the hood. For this purpose 2 mm. quite enough. Thus: body 620 mm, minus 4 mm (standard clearance), minus 2 mm (additional clearance) = 614 mm.

Kitchen, general view.

The description and drawings of the kitchen sections have been completed this project. Let me remind you that due to the abundant number of pipes, ventilation, boilers and other communications, it was decided to design the kitchen in such a way that it moved away from the far wall by maximum size communications, i.e. by 130 mm. All communications should be covered with a work wall made of the same material as the kitchen worktop. Detailed description For room measurements and project selection, see the first part of the article.

Drawings of standard kitchen sections. Lower standard sections.

Drawings of standard kitchen sections. Upper standard sections.

Can be copied with an indication of the source and an active indexed hyperlink to the site

Scheme:	Project:	Kitchen project, floor plan:

The kitchen furniture market can be imagined this way: high quality and very expensive, just expensive and not necessarily high quality. Therefore, many are looking for a way to make a kitchen set themselves. Moreover, today you can buy almost any material, fittings, tools, etc. On practice homemade models often turn out to be no worse, and often even better than factory ones.

But to make a kitchen set with your own hands, you will have to work with both your hands and your head.

Selection of design and material

Simplicity and functionality

So, if you decide to work with your own hands, then you immediately face a dilemma: which design to choose? The answer is simple - we choose the most simple, functional and convenient design.

Here the classic kitchen furniture comes to our aid - these are cabinets with drawers, which are assembled together and covered with a common tabletop (as in the photo above).

This modification has several advantages:

Opportunity modular assembly when each element is designed and assembled separately;
This design is suitable for both large and small kitchens;
During the production of furniture of this configuration, a huge amount of methodological material and the most efficient combinations of materials, fittings and sizes were worked out;
In practice, such furniture is comfortable, roomy and quite durable;
If you don’t know how to make a kitchen set yourself, a standard and time-tested model will require a minimum of knowledge and creative effort, which is much better for a beginner;
When cutting parts, you won’t have to work with complex curved cuts and obtuse angles, which will make your task much easier;
How simpler mechanism, the more reliable it is in operation. This is a universal rule of mechanics;
Much easier to find necessary accessories, facades, countertops, etc.
During assembly, standard, standard methods connections: screws, dowels, nails, glue;
The standardized sizing system, in multiples of 15 centimeters, also greatly facilitates design and subsequent cutting, assembly and fitting.

In addition, do not forget about such an opportunity as remodeling the kitchen unit with your own hands. This is a completely worthy option, because you will get rid of the lion’s share of manipulations, design and other headaches.

I'll try to tell you how I made simple kitchen furniture with my own hands. Let's begin...

The client wanted a kitchen like this

Those. In total, you need to make 3 wall cabinets, a sink and a cabinet with drawers and a work surface.

Built 3D models, drawings and cutting in Basis-Furniture Maker. I highly recommend it to everyone. When drawing such standard things, an irreplaceable complex!

Cabinet No. 1 - working

List of panels

Vertical 704x510 - 2 pcs.
Horizontal 1100x510 - 1 piece
Horizontal 1068x150 - 2 pcs.
Vertical 688x510 - 1 piece
Base strip 1100x100 - 1 piece
Drawer side 500x80 - 6 pcs.
Back wall of the box 310x80 - 6 pcs.
Drawer side 500x195 - 2 pcs.
Back wall of the box 310x195 - 2 pcs.

Cabinet No. 2 - sink

During assembly cross bars were rotated 90 degrees and shifted towards the wall and doors, respectively.

List of panels

Vertical 704x510 - 2 pcs.
Horizontal 800x510 - 1 piece.
Horizontal 768x150 - 1 piece.
Base strip 800x100 - 1 piece.
Horizontal 768x80 - 1 piece.

Wardrobe No. 3 - Large wall cabinet

List of panels

Vertical 400x385 - 2 pcs.
Horizontal 768x385 - 2 pcs.

Wardrobe No. 4 and No. 5 - Small wall cabinet

We will make 2 identical wall cabinets. Maybe it would have been better to make one at 400 and the other at 700 to maintain the line with the lower cabinets, but we decided to do it this way

List of panels

Vertical 400x385 - 2 pcs.
Horizontal 518x385 - 2 pcs.

The facades will be purchased and ready-made. Therefore, they are not in the lists of panels on the diagrams.

148x386 3pcs.
257x386 1 piece.
299x706 1 piece.
405x706 1 piece.
715x396 2 pcs.
396x796 1 piece.
396x546 2 pcs.

The fronts of the top drawers will have inserted glass.

But with furniture fronts for small drawers - it flew by a little. Either I didn’t indicate where in the order, or who accepted the order, or at the factory - somewhere, someone didn’t take everything into account. In the end this is what I got

Two horizontal millings were made along the lower facade. But it was necessary to make one on the lower facade in the lower part, one on the upper facade in the upper part. The first major jamb of the project - Now I’ll know for the future.

Cutting chipboard boards

I ordered cutting the chipboard from the same place where I bought the chipboard itself.

Size Laminated chipboard- 2440x1830

Here is an approximate layout. Check.

I have to say, they did a terrible job this time. We will hide and mill :)

In addition to blanks with large chips, we also came across such specimens.

It happens that a part is either not finished, or the wrong size is cut, or it is cut with the wrong direction of the texture. Therefore, when I brought the chipboard home, I checked the dimensions of each part, glued a piece of paper tape to each and wrote the size of the part on it. Something like this.

This then helps you find the part you need faster.

I try to glue the tape to the side of the part where there are the least amount of chips. This will then help to correctly install the part in the product in order to hide chips from view. Although this is not strict - still, when installing, you twist the part ten times, choosing the best position.

Edging

The next stage in the manufacture of our kitchen is edging - processing the ends of the finished parts with PVC edges.

I always glue the edges on all the parts, and only then start assembling. This is how I break the work into several stages. This makes it possible to prepare a more convenient place for a specific stage and minimize the amount of tools and material at the workplace. This is more practical and convenient, especially if the entire furniture manufacturing process takes place on small kitchen- like mine:).

I always tape edges to ALL the ends of each piece. Those who are too lazy or think it’s superfluous can only glue the visible ends with edges (this is done in all furniture manufacturing companies). I process all ends without exception, as this minimizes the evaporation of formaldehyde resins that are harmful to health. Secondly, you never know where water might appear. There was an incident with a hidden bottle of champagne. She decided to open herself in the closet. After that, I had to replace 2 shelves, as they were all swollen from moisture. I don’t know if an edge would have saved the shelf from such a fate – I think so. Therefore, when ordering furniture, I recommend that everyone insist on edging all the ends. Yes - it's more expensive. But health is more expensive - although this is a personal matter for everyone.

What do I use to edge the ends of chipboard parts when making furniture.....

Let's start in order:

Iron. Preferably without any coverings, with a flat, solid sole and lightweight. They will have to work a lot on their weight. I have an old (8-9 years old) Philips flat iron - well, VERY light. I have never seen anything easier. The only negative is the Teflon coating. True, after several years of edging it, there was almost no coating left :)

A sheet of plain, white, blank paper. I iron the edge through it. I didn’t see anyone else writing about the paper. But I use it. It seems to me that it is more difficult to overheat the edge - the heating is more even, the edge does not get scratched and does not get dirty (after all, I have Teflon on the sole :))

Two clamps and a flat guide. In my case, a piece of tabletop. I press the guide to the table with clamps. When gluing the edge, I rest the part against this guide. This makes it possible to free left hand. I use it to guide the edge when gluing it and hold the sheet of paper.
Edge roll with glue applied. I put clamps on the screw. It unwinds very conveniently and does not fall anywhere.
A stationery knife with a wide blade and a large, comfortable handle. They can carry out all operations on edge cutting. But I only use it for trimming the end overhangs of the edge.
Convenient longitudinal double-sided edge trimmer from Wegoma. The tool is nice but not indispensable. All of its work can be done by an ordinary stationery knife and does it no worse, although it takes longer.

Well, the process of edging itself

I put the part on the table and rest it against the guide. I stretch the edge along the entire end and lightly fix it at the beginning of the end by touching the iron. I don’t level the edge along one edge, but give overhangs evenly on both sides.

After this, I lay down a sheet of paper and begin to iron the entire end through it. I warm it evenly along the entire length. I don’t stop, otherwise the edge will quickly overheat and swell with bubbles. Without paper it happens much faster. I control the process by the condition of the glue on the open overhang of the edge. I try to catch the moment when the glue begins to flow, but does not bubble yet.

When the glue is in this state along the entire length of the end (of course, if the part is small), I lift the nose of the iron and press with the heel of the sole along the entire length of the part. You need to make sure that the heel touches the entire end, and not just one of the edges. In this case, the edge is pressed very tightly against the chipboard, which means it sticks well.

While the glue has not yet completely hardened, I turn the part over and place it on the table with the edge glued on the end. I press on the part from above and shake it slightly. By pressing and rocking the part on flat surface a good fit of the edge on the overhang lines is achieved. In addition, heat is transferred from the edge (glue) to the table. The glue hardens faster. You need to cut the edge only after the glue has hardened.

In this position, I immediately form the end overhangs of the edge with a stationery knife.

There is no need to cut anything by tearing the edge. You just need to install the blade and press harder. I usually do this by laying a strip of fiberboard with the sanded side up.

All that remains is to use the Wegoma longitudinal trimmer. I didn’t get the hang of cutting on both sides at once. So I cut one side at a time. Fortunately, the trimmer is detachable. To achieve the best result, I first trim the edge a little at one end (otherwise there will be chips and breaks when coming out), and then move the trimmer from the opposite end. This is roughly how the process works – easily and without stress. Accidental cuts of the laminate with this method are excluded (but when “burying” a stationery knife, they happen).

After this, you can put into assembly the parts that will be attached in places where access to the sealed edges will be limited, i.e. the likelihood of catching the edge is minimal. Although I still advise you to go over it with a rag to remove any escaping glue. Here is a photo of the edge after trimming. Don't be alarmed, the white is not chips - it's glue.

But we strive for the ideal. Therefore, we go through with fine sandpaper wound on a block. Wipe off excess glue. And we get this end!!

For example, cutting an edge using a regular stationery knife.

I put a sheet of paper and the blade of a stationery knife extended to its full extent. I press the nose of the knife with my left hand, and hold the handle of the knife with my right. It is important that the sheet of paper lies tightly against the glued edge. Then with my hand lying on the sheet of paper and pressing the nose of the knife, I pull the sheet of paper towards myself. It turns out that the knife lies on a sheet of paper, and the paper slides along the edge. In this case, the knife will not bury itself in the chipboard laminate and scratch it.

There is no left hand in this photo - she is holding the camera. In general, she should press the tip of the knife and pull the sheet of paper along the edge.

Here you don’t have to try too hard and don’t worry if the edge is cut by waves. The main thing is not to remove the laminate. In the photo below, I deliberately chose a worse area - after trimming the furniture edge with a knife.

Next, I remove the sheet of paper, place the knife directly on the laminate and trim the remaining edges. The remaining edges are small - often the thickness of paper, so they do not create such resistance when cutting that the knife cuts into the laminate. Therefore, placing the knife along the entire line of the tip on the laminate, I cut off the remains.

Here, too, it is advisable to press the nose of the knife - I just have a camera in my left hand.

We sand it on the block, holding it at 45 degrees (we make a chamfer), wipe off the remaining glue with a rag and get this end.

Assembly

Well, now about the assembly...

In general, I don’t really know what to say here.

When assembling I use corner clamps.

I clamp the parts to be fastened from above and below. I add sheets of paper, otherwise there is a high probability of scratching the laminate or tearing off the edge.

I first mark the drilling location with a pencil and then with a wood drill (nail). I drill it and screw in the Euroscrews without disassembling it.

When choosing a drilling location I am guided by the following rule. I retreat 60 mm from the edge. If the length of the connection of parts is more than 400 mm, I use 3 euroscrews. Although this must be looked at locally, of course.

To drill for Euroscrews, I use a special drill with a cutter. Very convenient - all 3 diameters in one go.

I drill under the hinge cups for facades with a special cutter with a stop. The stop prevents you from drilling deeper than the hinge cups require. A very convenient thing. Before this, I had to look for Fostner drills and grind the guide pin down to a minimum. Check the drilling depth by eye. Now everything is much easier and faster - I recommend it to everyone.

I’ll tell you how I made hanging boxes using the largest one as an example. With dish drainer. The cabinet is low. It was not possible to insert a drying rack for mugs and plates - there was not enough height. I decided to divide it into two sections. One has a drying rack for mugs, the other for plates. I bought a long dryer 800 mm. Then I cut it to the size of the sections. The dividing wall hangs on the lid - it does not reach the bottom. Therefore, I put a standard 800mm dryer tray there.

In general, everything is clear with the assembly. The bottom and lid are removable. We secure the parts with corner clamps at the top and bottom. We drill and twist with Euroscrews. When the frame is assembled, we screw on the back wall (back) made of fiberboard. In stores, they increasingly began to nail down the back walls, or even simply shoot them with a stapler. I still prefer to screw it on. I tighten thin screws 20 mm long in increments of 80-100 mm. You can use regular fiberboard, not laminated. But stains appearing from moisture and grease are clearly visible on it. Therefore, I still recommend laminated fiberboard - it can be washed.

It is worth stopping at installing loops - frogs. I installed regular Boyard overhead hinges. The cheapest they ever were. In general, they work fine - but over time - we'll see.

From the edge, the center for the loop cup is marked 21-22 mm. I try to maintain 21.5mm. According to the height of the box from the top and bottom, I outline the center of the box to be 80-100mm. You need to look at the place. BE CAREFUL NOT TO DRILL IN THE MILLING PLACE!!! On these facades, I milled at 70 mm from the edge. So I moved the hinge to 110mm.

After the hinge cup is drilled, I install the hinge, place the metal corner, align one side of it with the edge of the facade, and the other side of the corner sets the hinge in the desired position. I mark the holes for the screws. After that, I drill blind holes and screw the hinge. In order not to drill through the facade, I use one very simple technique. I take a drill and wind a strip of paper tape at the desired height. Now it is very convenient to control the drilling depth.

A special metal corner was chosen as a suspension. It is attached to the cabinet with a bolt through and through a large washer. Allows adjustment and is easy to attach to the wall.

Now I’ll show you how I install the front with screwed hinges on the cabinet.

I open the hinges, move the support platforms to the middle position and place the front on the desired surface of the cabinet. We shake the facade and catch the moment when the hinge platforms lay completely on the surface of the cabinet. Only in this position do we mark the drilling locations for the screws for fastening the hinge platform.

Do not mark when the nose or heel of the hinge platform is raised above the chipboard (as in the photo below). In this case, there is a high probability that it will not be possible to adjust the loop at all - the adjustment limits will not be enough.

All that remains is to drill and screw the facades. After this, it is necessary to adjust the hinges so that there are equal gaps everywhere and the front lies clearly along the perimeter of the cabinet.

Kitchen sink.

There are several nuances when making a kitchen sink. First - here are the photos assembled sink. Is it true door handles not installed here yet.

The tabletop must be selected (cut) according to the depth of the cabinet so that the drip tray extends beyond the facades. A drip tray is a special groove made of water-repellent material or a shallow groove, which is located on the lower front side of the tabletop. When water gets on the countertop, the drip tray prevents it from flowing inside the kitchen cabinets, causing the water to fall to the floor, bypassing the front part of the kitchen.

In general, the packaging of stainless kitchen sinks already has a template for marking the countertop. But the last 2 sinks I installed came with the wrong templates. Therefore, I advise you to check the template first. Cut it out and just try to put it on the stainless kitchen sink. On the first one, my template was 1 cm smaller than needed on all sides. The second one was missing 1 cm on the side.

Now - how I inserted the sink into the countertop. First, I drew the boundaries of the free space on the countertop. Those. on the left and right, the lines at a distance of 16 mm from the edge are the sidewalls. Rear 21mm (stiffness bar 16mm + 5mm – canopy over the fiberboard wall). In front, starting from the drip tray line - 34 mm (16 mm - facades + 16 mm stiffener bar + 2 mm - gap between the facade and sidewall). Now there is a rectangle on the countertop into which you need to fit the sink. I measured the sink and the resulting rectangle. I needed to position the sink in the center. Therefore, I placed the sink on the countertop, leaving equal distances from all sides of the sink to the rectangle obtained on the countertop, and traced the sink along the countertop with a pencil. Then I stepped back 15mm inward from the resulting outline and drew another outline simply by hand. I cut along this line with a jigsaw. To insert the jigsaw file, I first drilled through hole 10mm drill. I inserted a jigsaw blade into it and then went out to mark. It turned out that when installing the sink, it overlaps the countertop by 15 mm.

After cutting, it is necessary to seal the tabletop to protect it from water. The outer ends were covered with wide furniture edge. The resulting internal cut and the lower plane of the tabletop were coated without sparing, rubbing well, with a transparent sealant.

Before installing the sink, you need to secure the countertop to the cabinet itself. Since the sink is large, we had to be clever. Screwed into the corners metal corners- photo below.

In the middle of the sidewalls and stiffeners I installed cut corners. I drilled a hole at the bend and screwed a screw at 45 degrees into the tabletop.

After that, I installed the sink and tightened it with standard fasteners. You need to watch the screws you screw in. In some places, at a certain angle of twist, the screw, when fully tightened, can rest against the stainless steel and squeeze it out.

I installed the included sink seal. It is self-adhesive. Glued along the edge of the sink. Maybe I just couldn’t - but I couldn’t pull it across the entire surface without a gap. The gaps are minimal - a nail will not fit through. But a hole is a hole. Therefore, I unscrewed everything and additionally applied a strip of transparent sealant around the entire perimeter of the sink, in front of the glued standard seal. In general, some craftsmen throw out the standard seal and install the sink only with sealant. Squeeze the sealant like a “sausage” onto the edges of the sink, turn it over and tighten it. At the same time, there are no gaps, the sink fits well, and is also well sealed with silicone sealant, which can also be antiseptic.

Additionally, the side ends of the tabletop were covered with a polished plank. It is screwed on with screws. Before installing it, I coated it with silicone sealant. This strip prevents the destruction of the tabletop from possible side impacts and additionally protects against water ingress.

Desk with drawers

Now I’ll tell you how I made the next piece of furniture for my kitchen. This is a desk with drawers. First off - photos of my kitchen workbench - the end result.

Both the sink and the work table are installed on adjustable feet 100mm. A plinth strip is attached to them in front using standard clips.

For small drawers I used Boyard ball guides with a load capacity of up to 25 kg. For large roll-out boxes I used wide ball guides from the same company, with a load capacity of up to 45 kg.

There are no special features when assembling the desktop. The tabletop is screwed through the planks with screws. The only subtleties are in installing the facades.

I fastened the facades with screws. 2 screws per facade. First, I glued small pieces of double-sided tape to the box. Then he carefully brought the façade up, holding onto the pre-fixed handle. I placed pieces of fiberboard on top and on the sides (for installation with equal gaps). Pressed down. After this, the facade turns out to be quite well fixed. Installed all the facades. If it was sagging, I boldly tore off the façade and glued it back on - very convenient. When I was completely satisfied with the location of the facades, I drilled them with a thin drill and screwed in the screws. That's the whole trick.

This is what happened in the end

The cost of making a kitchen - cost

Position	Price, rub
2 sheets of laminated chipboard 1.83x2.44 16mm
Chipboard cutting
Edge with adhesive base
Facades
Fiberboard - 1 sheet
Pens
Glass
Elevators (6 pcs.), guides (13 pcs.), pendants (6 pcs.), supports (12 pcs.), frog loops (10 pcs.), Table top end strips (4 pcs.), Euroscrews, screws, glass holders (18 pcs.), Wide edge for table top (5 m), washers for hangers (6 pcs.), Metal corners (6 pcs.),
Washing
Drainer
Total	11580,72
A small number of screws, euroscrews, silicone sealant, double-sided tape, plugs, were already there and were not bought. Plus consumables: jigsaw files, sandpaper, drill for euroscrews (the cutter gets dull quickly). Therefore, the real costs are not much, 300-400 rubles more.