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“How great it would be to plant a rowan tree or a lilac bush in the yard!” - every resident of the metropolis at least once had such a desire that the eye would be pleased and it would be pleasant to walk in the yard. But most people simply don’t know where to get seedlings and how to organize everything.

Every Novosibirsk resident can take part in the “Grow Your Own Tree” campaign and plant a tree or shrub in the yard. The promotion is held twice a year - in spring (April-May) and autumn (September-October). Usually, city residents are offered to plant seedlings of linden, elm, willow, rowan, as well as shrubs - turf and bladderwort.

1 Select landing location

Before planting seedlings, you need to consult with the agronomist of the district administration - jointly determine the place where a hole can be dug for the root system of the seedling. Planting a future tree should not cause damage to underground communications that are located under the landscaped area. The landing site must be selected:

not in the area of ​​engineering communications (consultation with a specialist from the district administration is necessary);

taking into account the long-term growth, development and possibilities for further maintenance (watering, pruning, weeding, etc.) of the planned green spaces.

2 Select seedlings

Planting material must be selected based on the following considerations:

viability of seedlings, their compliance with growing conditions;

type of seedlings, their compliance with the goals and objectives of landscaping the territory (tapeworms, row plantings, hedges, landscape groups, etc.);

the type of seedlings, their compliance with the planting site from the point of view of creating a comfortable and visually enriched urban environment, as well as the principles of modern landscape design.

Please note that you must come to the nursery, dig up the seedlings and transport them to the yard yourself. When digging up seedlings, it is necessary to pay attention to the root system. It must be intact and developed. After digging, it is advisable to wrap the root system in a damp cloth to prevent drying out.

It is not necessary to present a power of attorney at the nursery (as was the case before). It is enough to show the message of the “My Novosibirsk” system directly on the screen of your phone or in printed form.

3 Plant trees

When planting green spaces, it is necessary to prepare the planting site:

remove debris, level, apply fertilizer if necessary, etc.;

make planting nests for trees and shrubs;

plant seedlings, install guy ropes;

water the seedlings.

You can plant trees with your children and make it a big holiday for the whole yard.

4 Take care of green spaces

During the year after planting green spaces, it is necessary to regularly inspect the seedlings and also care for them:

water regularly, at least twice a week;

bandage stretch marks at least once a month;

Apply the necessary fertilizers, depending on the composition of the soil.

Driving directions to the nursery st. Decorative nursery, 1/1

You can receive planting material at the address: st. Decorative nursery, 1/1.

Pick-up time: from 8:00 to 15:00 (lunch from 12:00 to 13:00).

MKU Gorzelenkhoz

st. Frunze, 96, 6th floor, tel. 224-52-31

Administration of the Central District: st. Lenina, 57, tel. 227-59-65

Administration of Dzerzhinsky district: Dzerzhinsky Ave. 16, tel. 227-57-13

Administration of the Kalininsky district: st. Bogdana Khmelnitsky, 14/3, tel. 228-73-61

Administration of Oktyabrsky district: st. Sacco and Vanzetti, 33, tel. 228-81-79

Administration of the Kirovsky district: st. Petukhova, 18, tel. 227-48-18

The article talks about where to get planting material (Siberian cedar seedlings) and what rules must be followed when planting and caring for it in the first years of life.

If you have a great desire to landscape the area near your house, cottage or dacha with Siberian cedar seedlings, then you need to ask yourself where to get the planting material. There are several options: you can buy ready-made planting material, or you can dig up and plant Siberian cedar yourself.

It should be taken into account that seedlings of this noble coniferous species can be planted in the spring after frost and in the fall before the first frost. It is advisable to take plants that are grown nearby in similar conditions to avoid difficult adaptation during the acclimatization process. To do this, you need to find the nearest forestry or special nursery. You can select and purchase young healthy plants in bulk from them.

If there are no such enterprises nearby, then you can dig up such small trees in forest belts, near oil pipeline routes and other places, having obtained the appropriate permission from the forestry department. Do not engage in poaching or theft under any circumstances. Such actions are qualified as an administrative offense and are punishable by a considerable fine.

After you have decided on the place to collect planting material and have taken the necessary permission, you need to choose a time for this work so that you can plant the dug plants in a new place in one day. Pay special attention to tree roots. Try to dig carefully so as not to damage them. Try to plant cedar in well-moistened soil. Remember that damage to the root system and insufficient moisture often lead to the death or disease of young cedar trees.

However, if you buy ready-made planting material, then you will avoid these mistakes. Since the root system of such plants will not be damaged, and you will definitely be advised on proper planting and care. You can find such consulting information in our region by visiting the Siberian Cedar online store.

A common mistake that amateur gardeners make is planting Siberian cedar seedlings alone. As you know, coniferous trees must be pollinated when flowering in order to bear fruit. Wind helps cross-pollination by moving pollen from one tree to another. And if there is no other plant of this species nearby, then pollination occurs in the conditions of one tree, which negatively affects the future development of the fruit. The seeds in the cones either do not appear at all, or grow small and underdeveloped. But the problem of crossing does not disappear even when all the seedlings are from the same nursery and are related. Preferably buy planting material in different nurseries.

Young trees should be planted in small groups of three to four seedlings at a distance of five to eight meters between them. To avoid creating a feeling of emptiness, plant bushes or other low-growing plants in the free space. Lupine gets along well with Siberian cedar. It is also an excellent natural fertilizer for cedar.

Also make sure that young trees grow in sufficiently moist and lighted places. If necessary, additionally water and fertilize the soil. Take time to form the crown: remove excess branches, and treat the cut areas with a special solution to avoid contamination of the bark with fungi and bacteria.

If all of the above simple rules of care are taken into account and followed, then you are guaranteed to get tall, healthy, fruit-bearing Siberian cedars on your site.

Sooner or later, old trees appear in any garden plot. The beloved apple tree no longer pleases with a bountiful harvest, but what wonderful and tasty fruits it produced! Not everyone knows how to propagate apple trees, but everyone wants to keep the variety they like in their garden. And even an inexperienced gardener can do this. A little knowledge, patience - and a lot of pleasure from the fruits that will grow on a young and strong tree is guaranteed.

Winter: time to break branches

Growing your own seedling is not easy. Many people tried to put tree branches in a glass of water and wait for the roots to form. But capricious cuts of favorite fruit varieties stubbornly refuse to reproduce in captivity. They can (and should) be provoked to do this. After all, self-propagation of an apple tree by cuttings promises us considerable benefits - as a result, we get an already known variety and at the same time we can prepare any amount of planting material.

The first step is taken in winter, several months before the start of sap flow. Using the proposed method, you can propagate both apple trees and any other trees. It is necessary to select a good mature young branch (one or two years old) and “traumatize” it - break the core without damaging the bark. To do this, the selected area is carefully bent until it gives a slight crunch. Several such “closed fractures” can be made on one branch. These are our future cuttings. The length of each is no more than 20 cm.

The fracture site in a bent position is wrapped with electrical tape or adhesive tape. The last stage of winter preparation is fixation. Any stick or piece of wire will do for this. The branch is secured so that the damaged areas do not straighten out.

Spring: rooting without stimulants

Any methods of propagating an apple tree (or other trees) are aimed at obtaining high-quality planting material. In our case, the task is to force the plant to independently stimulate the formation of strong seedlings. In the spring, additional nutrients will be sent to the site of tree damage to heal the broken areas. At the beginning of April, a sufficient amount of these elements will already be collected. You can remove the winding and cut the branch at the broken points.

A cut-off dark plastic bottle is filled with rain (or melt) water. It is recommended to dissolve several tablets of activated carbon in it and place it on the windowsill. Fill the bottle no more than 10 cm and place 10 cuttings in it. After 3 weeks, they will have callus, and roots will begin to grow under the buds, which should be in water. When they increase to 7 cm, you can safely transplant the cuttings for further cultivation in open ground. A shaded place and regular watering will help plants quickly adapt to new conditions. Propagation of apple trees by cuttings using the described method, as a rule, gives good results - more than 70% of prepared seedlings take root.

Apple seed: from seed to harvest

Getting a seedling suitable for planting in open ground is available to everyone, you just need to know how. Growing an apple tree from a seed is one of the ways to obtain planting material. Let us immediately clarify that this is perhaps the most time-consuming and ineffective way. The quality of the resulting seedlings, as a rule, leaves much to be desired.

1. Procurement of seeds. It is best to take seeds from varieties that grow in your climate. You can grow a tree from a seed of a foreign variety, but most likely there will be no fruit on it.
2. Dry the seeds on a cloth napkin. When the surface is no longer wet and shiny, the drying process is complete. You can move on to the next stage.
3. Cover the dry seeds with a damp towel and place in the refrigerator. This creates conditions that are close to natural - humidity and low temperature. The seeds are hardened and prepared for germination. It is necessary to periodically check the towel - it should not be dry. After a month (or a little more) sprouts begin to appear. It's time to plant future trees in the ground.
4. Correctly transplanting a tender shoot into a pot is an important point in the process of solving such a problem as growing an apple tree from a seed. It is necessary to put drainage at the bottom. You can buy a soil mixture - it is important to remember that the acidity should be neutral. Do not squeeze the earth too much, so as not to damage the weak sprout. Place in a bright place and water with warm water - the little apple tree will like it.

More than a year will pass before the grown apple tree can be planted in open ground. It is possible that it will grow into a large and healthy tree, which will delight its owners with a good harvest for many years.

An apple from an apple tree...

There is a simple answer to the question of how to propagate an apple tree. “Green cuttings,” will answer any experienced gardener. You can harvest cuttings almost all summer. During this period they are still growing. Hence the name - “green cuttings”. In the morning, when the maximum amount of moisture accumulates in the branches, young shoots of this year are cut off from the plant. You need to prepare more of them, because not all of them will take root. For further actions, take a part of a cut branch with three buds. One cut is made immediately below the lower bud, and the second is made just above the upper one. At the top of the cutting you need to leave a couple of leaves, and it is recommended to remove all the rest. If the remaining leaves are large, you can trim them a little without removing them. In this way, the surface area for moisture evaporation is reduced.

Place good garden soil or rotted compost in the container for planting cuttings. Another layer of sand is poured on top. This is where cuttings best form roots. Plant to a depth of 1-2 cm so that the first bud is below the surface of the sand. For the proper development of plants, they need to be covered with film and a greenhouse made. Depending on the weather, watering is done 1-2 times a week. Place in a shaded place. After a few weeks, shoots begin to grow from the buds. This means that the cuttings have taken root. You can replant them to a permanent place in the fall or spring.

Easy and simple: there was one tree - there are two

Another solution to the problem of “how to propagate apple trees quickly and for free.” This wonderful method is called dripping. It is perfect if the tree has low branches. In the place where they can touch the ground (but not closer than 25-30 cm from the edge), the leaves are removed and small transverse grooves are made on the bark. The cuts slow down the outflow of nutrients, leading to swelling and the formation of roots. You need to make a small depression in the ground and secure the prepared branch with a wire clamp. Sprinkle soil on top. Water depending on the weather 1-2 times a week. In the fall, when the plant takes root, the mother branch needs to be cut off and the seedling transplanted to a new location.

A resourceful gardener will turn the earth upside down

How to propagate apple trees (and not only) if their branches are high and do not reach the ground? Inventive summer residents have long found an answer to this question. If the apple tree does not bend towards the ground, it means that the ground rises towards the branches.

On a young branch, it is necessary to cut off the bark into a small ring up to 1 cm wide. A hole is made in a plastic bag and it is placed on the plant. Secure with electrical tape or rope 10 cm below the cut ring. A small amount of damp garden soil is poured into the open part of the bag - enough to cover the cut area. After this, the bag is tightly closed at the top. As a result, a small greenhouse is created on an apple tree branch. After a few weeks, young roots will become visible through the transparent polyethylene. After this, the top of the branch can be cut in half. And in the fall, the package is removed, the stalk with roots is cut off from the mother branch and transplanted to a new place.

Almost all the methods described in the article (with the exception of growing an apple tree from a seed) have, in addition to simplicity, another undeniable advantage. The resulting plants will completely replicate all the taste and other qualities of the mother plants. This means that the harvest of your favorite apples in your garden will not end.

Growing planting material on a garden plot is one of the conditions for introducing progressive varieties of fruit and berry crops and obtaining a high yield of fruits, berries and vegetables. To get good seedlings of apple and pear trees, I use the method of preliminary preparation of seed material.

For this purpose, select seeds from ripe, high-quality fruits of apple and pear trees, place them in a wet cloth and place them at the bottom of a hole dug to a depth of 50-60 cm, cover the top with a small plank, then fill the hole with earth and leave until spring.

In the spring, when the ground has completely thawed, I open the hole and take out the seeds that have already begun to germinate, plant them in a specially prepared place-school and raise them until next spring. In winter I leave them open, protecting them only from rodents.

Grafting apple and pear trees with cuttings of new varieties

In the spring of next year, I will vaccinate with the appropriate variety that I want to have on my site. I purchase cuttings for grafting before the sap begins to flow. At the same time, I cut off three buds of the scion cuttings and copulate the rootstock. I recommend that when the height reaches 0.7-0.8 m, pinch the top and remove all excess buds, leaving five, located in the best way for the sparse-tiered formation of the tree crown.

In a garden plot where there are a small number of fruit trees, a separate variety can be grafted onto each skeletal branch. Consequently, each tree will have 5-6 varieties of tasty fruits. A good rootstock is any wild pear from the forest or from an old garden. In the spring, graft the desired variety of pear onto them and, when the scion reaches 0.7-0.8 m in height, pinch the top and remove excess buds, i.e., create favorable conditions for the formation of the crown, and the height of the trunk will be sufficient.

Planting a pear seedling

If we talk about growing pears, I would like to give advice on planting methods, especially on saline soils. To plant a pear seedling, you need to dig a hole one meter deep and one and a half meters wide. To the bottom of the pit put a sheet of iron, cover it with plastic wrap and prepare a fertile mixture (turf soil, sand, humus), fill the hole halfway and install a metal pipe in the center with holes drilled in the lower part, and lay a vinyl chloride pipe with holes around the ring of the hole. Connect the ends of the tube to a pipe installed in the center, secure with fittings and cover completely with earth.

You can learn more about the technology in a new article.

In the center of the hole, pour a mound of earth 10 cm above the main level and plant a seedling, spreading the roots along the mound. Then cover with soil, water and mulch. Further watering should be done using a hose or sprinkling, but it is better from a container through the hole in the central pipe.