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Step-by-step installation gable roof- handyman's guide

Professionals consider the gable system to be the simplest and most accessible, this is partly true, but for home handyman self-installation Roofs of any configuration can be a problem. Therefore, next we will analyze step by step all the stages of constructing a gable structure, starting with professional terminology and ending with the arrangement roofing pie.

Basic concepts and subtleties

Before you go to the store for materials and try to do something with your own hands, it would be useful to understand what exactly you want, because gable systems come in several types. And to create a basic project, you need to know the basic principles and terminology.

What and what is it called

• Mauerlat- this is a beam that serves as a support for the rafter legs and is mounted around the perimeter of the outer load-bearing wall. Minimum section such timber is 100x100 mm. It can be monolithic or stacked, that is, consist of 2 beams of smaller cross-section;
• Rafter leg- this is an inclined beam with its lower side resting on the mauerlat, and the upper connection of such beams forms a ridge, in gable system there are 2 of them. The minimum thickness of the rafter leg is 50 mm. The width of the beams can be from 150 mm or more;
• Farm- the connection of two rafter legs (triangle), called a truss. The number of trusses depends on the length of the building, the minimum truss pitch is 600 mm, the maximum is 1200 mm. The choice of pitch depends on the weight of the roofing pie, as well as on the snow and wind load in the area;
• Horse- the upper line of connection of the rafter legs and two roof planes, it is also called the ridge girder;
• fillies- overhangs from the edge of the rafter leg to the outer load-bearing wall. A frontal board is placed on the front side of the overhang, which often serves as a support for installing roof drain gutters;

• Racks- vertical supports that take on a significant part of the weight of the rafter structure. In small houses, the post is placed only in the center, and supports the ridge. For large roof sizes, as well as in houses with a residential attic, intermediate racks are installed;
• Struts- small beams that are mounted at an angle and provide additional stability to the trusses;
• Puff- a horizontal beam connecting 2 adjacent rafter legs. It can also be called a fight or a crossbar;
• Sill- this is to some extent an analogue of the Mauerlat, only here the beam is mounted on top of an internal load-bearing wall or several internal walls;

• Lathing- boards stuffed on top, perpendicular to the rafters. The sheathing can be continuous or with gaps, it all depends on the weight and structure of the roofing pie;
• Run- an analogue of ridge beams, but ordinary purlins are mounted along the entire roof plane, they strengthen the trusses and serve as additional support for the rafter legs.

Types of gable structures

Illustrations	Explanations
	Symmetrical system. The symmetrical rafter system is considered the most reliable and easiest to install. The loads here are distributed evenly, so the thickness of the roofing pie does not play a big role.
	Asymmetrical system. Asymmetry is good not only for its original appearance; it is easier to arrange a living space under such a roof. But, at the same time, much more calculations will be required, because the loads on the base and the roofing pie vary greatly.
	Broken roof. Formally, such a roof already has more than 2 slopes, but the installation procedure is broken and classical designs similar Therefore, they are combined into one direction.

What is the difference between layered and hanging systems?

If the distance between the external walls does not exceed 10 m, and there is no permanent wall inside the house, then installation hanging rafters. They rest on the Mauerlat and are pulled together at the bottom by ceiling beams, plus in some cases additional transverse ties are installed.

Installation of layered rafters can only be carried out if there are permanent walls inside the house. However, the dimensions of the building do not have of great importance. The layered system is much more practical and durable, because a significant part of the total load is taken by the wall.

A few words about calculations

When calculating any roof, 3 main components are taken into account - constant, variable and special loads.

1. Constant loads include, first of all, weight roofing and the rafter system itself. In unheated attics, this weight often does not exceed 30 kg per 1 m², and if you are installing a full-fledged roofing pie with insulation, then the weight here can reach up to 50 kg;

1. Variables include snow and wind loads. To calculate, you need a wind rose and average precipitation for the region. SNiP 2.01.07-85 will help you here; according to it, in Russia the snow load ranges from 80 to 320 kg/m². Both snow and wind loads are multiplied by a factor depending on the angle of the roof, and this factor is constant;

If your gable roof has a slope angle equal to or greater than 60º, then the snow load can be ignored; snow is not retained on such a roof. But the wind pressure here is much higher.

1. Special stresses include natural disasters such as earthquakes and hurricanes. Fortunately, there are few such places in our country, so they are rarely taken into account in calculations. Below in the video in this article detailed instructions for calculating the roof are given.

Stages of installation of a gable roof

The entire installation can be divided into fastening the Mauerlat, then comes the laying of rafters, racks and struts, and it all ends with the arrangement of the roofing pie.

How to install the Mauerlat

Fastening the Mauerlat, first of all, depends on what material your house is built from. So, if the house is brick or made of cinder block, then a couple of layers of roofing material are rolled out over the wall and the Mauerlat beam is screwed on top with anchor bolts or any other studs.

With houses from cellular concrete(foam or aerated concrete) everything is a little more complicated. Neither an anchor bolt nor a pin will hold in such a block, so a reinforced reinforced concrete belt is poured around the entire perimeter of the wall, into which iron pins are initially embedded to secure the Mauerlat.

In wooden houses, the rafter system is mounted without a mauerlat at all; more precisely, the role of the mauerlat is played by the upper beam.

Rafter legs in wooden houses are connected to the upper beam (mauerlat) according to the sliding principle, that is, not rigidly. This installation allows the rafters to move as the house shrinks.

We install a simple rafter system

Illustrations	Recommendations
	Mauerlat. In this case, the installation of the Mauerlat was carried out on a built-in threaded pin; the pin was locked from above through a washer. Plus, an anchor bolt was driven nearby for strength.
	Extreme farms. To keep the outer trusses in the desired position, they were screwed in the center and additionally secured with spacers and posts. These racks are needed only during the installation of the rafter system; then they are dismantled.
	Connection of rafters with Mauerlat. Stage 1. The first to be installed on the Mauerlat are vertical racks. They are cut from the same timber as the rafter legs. The outer racks are fixed with two corners, 8 screws in each, and the middle ones are fastened in the same way, with only 1 corner.
	Stage 2. On the reverse side of the rafter leg, exactly the same stand with a corner is installed. The rafter leg itself is connected to the posts with long self-tapping screws and through pins with a diameter of 12 mm.
	Stage 3. On the outer trusses, in addition to the mounting on the Mauerlat, intermediate racks are also installed (they are not subsequently removed).
	Stage 4. A triangle is rigidly attached between the two posts holding the rafter legs on the mauerlat.
	Ridge run. Stage 1. The ridge beam must pass exactly under the connection of all trusses. To secure this beam, 2 tie-rods were installed on the outer trusses, and the beam itself was screwed to the tie-rods with corners. Bars of this cross-section are usually 6 m long, so they can be extended if necessary. To make the connection strong, we attached the same bars on both sides and tightened everything with 4 12 mm studs.
	Stage 2. For reliability, the connections of the rafter legs were tightened with metal plates with 6 12 mm studs, 3 studs in each beam. If there are not enough such overlays with studs for each truss, then pull at least the outer ones, and fix the rest on both sides with plates on self-tapping screws.
	Tightenings on the end trusses. On the outer trusses, the tie rods are installed inside, between the rafter legs, and secured on both sides with metal plates.
	Tightenings on intermediate trusses. 2 tie-rods are placed on the intermediate trusses, they are applied on both sides and tightened with two studs (12 mm) and four self-tapping screws.
	Reference point. In order to align the intermediate trusses in the same plane, immediately after installing the outer trusses, a cord is stretched between them and the remaining trusses are mounted along it.
	Cutout in the rafters. In order for the rafter legs to rest more firmly on the Mauerlat, triangular cutouts are made in them. But such cutouts are made only in block houses; in wooden houses there are no cutouts, where the rafters must slide.
	fillies. There should be at least 30 - 40 cm from the edge of the rafter to the wall. In this case, 50 cm was made. A tolerance of 10 cm was left for insulation and wall cladding with siding.
	Rafter system - the result. We have a lightweight rafter system hanging type. We did not install central pillars, so the attic can be made habitable. The puffs on the middle trusses are paired, and on the outer trusses they are single. At the top point of the trusses there is a single ridge beam. Since the system is hanging, the rafter legs have double reinforced fastening.

There is one more important point: in wooden houses, in addition to the sliding fastening of the rafter legs to the mauerlat, it is advisable to also make the ridge connection movable. The easiest way is to screw metal plates on both sides of the rafter legs and “sew” these plates together with a central pin, as in the photo below.

How does a roofing pie work?

The roofing pie pattern on all pitched roofs is similar, but the installation technology and sequence of actions may be slightly different. If there are enough funds for quick installation, then the pie is installed from the bottom up and the entire roof is completed in a maximum of a week. But if the house is being built gradually, then they act differently.

If you have limited financial resources, you can first install a roof under cold attic, and then (when money and time appear) insulate everything with your own hands.

To begin with, a vapor barrier is installed on top of the rafter system. The rolls are rolled out perpendicular to the rafters and cover each other from bottom to top. As the roll is rolled out, the membrane is nailed to the rafters with counter batten bars (50x50 mm), and the main batten is placed on top of these bars.

After the first roll is rolled out and secured, the next one is rolled out on top of it with an overlap of 150 mm. After which it is also fixed with a counter-lattish, onto which the lathing is stuffed. There is no need to measure the overlap of the next roll; there is a line on it for this purpose.

The pitch of the under-roof sheathing can be different, for example, the slats are packed under the metal tiles with a gap of about half a meter, and if you ceramic tiles, then you need to focus on the dimensions of the plates.

Insulating the roof from the inside is also easy. Plates mineral wool simply inserted from below between the rafters. Then the insulation is hemmed with another membrane, onto which it can already be sewn finishing attic.

If you prefer soft bitumen shingles, then in the diagram below it is given step-by-step instruction its arrangement.

Conclusion

A gable roof is a good choice for the beginning home handyman. I tried to highlight the main stages and subtleties of its arrangement. If you still have questions, write in the comments, I will try to help.

October 9, 2017

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!

21.02.2017 1 Comment

The rafter system of a gable roof is a simple design that can be installed with your own hands even by a novice developer. You just need to make preliminary calculations, familiarize yourself with the details and stages of roof construction, and calculate the materials needed for installation. When making calculations, it should be taken into account that the load-bearing capacity of a gable roof depends on the influence of loads from wind, snow, and the weight of materials on it.

To make the process of building a gable roof rafter system as easy as possible for you, below is detailed step-by-step instructions for installing a rafter system with your own hands.

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Requirements for building materials

For the installation of a rafter system, the best option would be to use lumber from coniferous wood - pine, spruce or larch, grades I - III.

The material for the rafters is taken at least grade II, the mauerlat is made from boards or timber of grade II, material of grade II is taken for racks and purlins, the sheathing is made from lumber of grades II-III, it depends on the roof. Crossbars and tie-downs are made of Grade I material. Grade III material can be used on linings and linings.

Note! The lumber must be dry with a moisture content of no more than 20%. It should be treated before installation fire retardant compounds and antiseptics against fungal diseases.

Lumber should be stored under a canopy, providing protection from the sun and moisture. Level the storage area and cover the lumber with pads for ventilation.

For installation you will need fastening elements: ties, plates, studs, bolts with washers and nuts, self-tapping screws with EPDM gaskets, 2.8 mm thick, mounting tape, galvanized brackets.

Brackets are used when attaching the Mauerlat; they are secured with nails or self-tapping screws.

KR corners serve to attach the rafters to the mauerlat and prevent the rafters from moving.

All fastening material must be made of high quality material and have corrosion protection.

Tools for constructing a rafter system

To install a gable roof rafter system, you will need the following set of tools:

• tape measures of different lengths 5, 10, 20 meters;
• markers, pencils;
• cord for tensioning;
• hammers, various purposes, nail puller;
• scissors, for cutting;
• roofing knife;
• putty knife;
• scotch;
• hacksaws, electric saw, electric drill with various drills and attachments;
• screwdriver with attachments;
• markings, horizontal and vertical levels;
• slats, rulers;
• polyurethane foam;
• safety belt and rope - for safe work.

Keep all tools on the roof in a tool bag for safety reasons.

Types of rafter systems for a gable roof

Sent rafters

They rest on the mauerlat and racks installed on the internal wall, with a pitch equal to the rafters. To provide rigidity for spans of 6 m, additional struts are installed.

Scheme of layered rafters of a gable roof

Hanging rafters

If the building is small in width, you can arrange a rafter system where the rafters rest on the mauerlat or walls, without intermediate supports. The maximum span is 9 meters. Such roofs can sometimes be installed without a Mauerlat. The rafters are installed on the wall using spacers; in this embodiment, a bending moment acts on the rafters.

To unload, wooden or metal plates are installed. They securely strengthen the corner. For hanging rafters longer span The headstock and struts are installed. For hanging systems, the rafters are made with a larger cross-section, and lumber is chosen at least grade I II.

Scheme of hanging rafters of a gable roof

Calculation of the rafter system

You can determine the cross-section of a gable roof beam required in a rafter system by collecting all the loads acting on it: the weight of the covering, sheathing, snow, wind pressure, precipitation.

Constant loads can be determined by the weight of 1 m 2 of roofing and sheathing. It is important that the weight per 1 m 2 of roofing be in the range of 40-45 kg.

Variable loads from snow and wind are calculated using table values regulatory documents SNiP, depending on the height of the building and temperature zone. The load from snow is equal to its weight multiplied by a coefficient depending on the slope of the slope. All these calculations are performed during the project.

What if there is no project and the roof is being erected on a small building? You need to look at the construction of a house in the neighborhood, which is being carried out according to a design whose roof area is the same as your building. The gable roof rafter system will serve as a model.

Dimensions of timber for rafters

At the top point a ridge is laid that connects the rafters. The height of the ridge depends on the slope of the roof. The slope is affected by the choice of coating material. Minimum dimensions are:

• For tiled roofs, slate 22 gr.;
• for metal tiles - 14 g;
• ondulin - 6 g;
• corrugated sheeting - 12 gr.

The optimal angle is 35-45 degrees. tilt, ensures rapid discharge of water and snow. In regions with strong winds, the roofs are made flat and then the angle of inclination is within 20-45 degrees.

The height can be determined using the formula: H=1/2Lpr*tgA. Where A is the angle of inclination, L is the width of the building.

The task is simplified when using a ready-made table. The coefficient depends on the width of the building and the angle of inclination. Multiply the coefficient by 1⁄2 the width of the building.

The rafters are made from pine or spruce bars, with a section of 50x100 mm, 50x150 mm.

The size of the rafters depends on the pitch. The pitch of the rafters is smaller, a larger number is installed, and the cross-section will decrease. The distance between the rafters on a gable roof ranges from 600 mm to 1800 mm, it all depends on the design of the roof and the materials used for its construction.

Table of rafter sizes, depending on the step of their installation

Length rafters, mm	Distance between rafters, mm	Rafter beam cross-section size, mm
up to 3000	1200	80×100
up to 3000	1800	90×100
up to 4000	1000	80×160
up to 4000	1400	80×180
up to 4000	1800	90×180
up to 6000	1000	80×200
up to 6000	1400	100×200

The roof does not end at the level of the walls; it is extended outward by 500 mm. The rafter leg can protrude, or a board or block can be built up. In this case, moisture does not reach the wall and the foundation is not poured.

Step-by-step installation of a gable roof truss system

The rafter system of a gable roof consists of the following elements:

1. Mauerlat.
2. Lay down.
3. Racks.
4. Rafters.
5. Struts.
6. Puffs.
7. Lathing.

Mauerlat installation

Fastening the Mauerlat to a monolithic reinforced concrete belt

Mauerlat evenly distributes the load on the walls of the building; its installation can be done in several ways:

• attached to the wall through a reinforced concrete belt with studs;
• studs are inserted into the masonry;
• a simple and common method for simple roofs, fastening with wire rod.

For it, take timber with a cross section of 100×100 mm, 150×150 mm or 200×200 mm. Which section to choose depends on the size of the roof and its covering. The Mauerlat is joined along its length; to do this, make 100 mm cuts, 500 mm long, fold the bars and fasten them with pins.

In the corners, the mauerlat is tied with notches into the floor of the timber, fastened with staples or bolts. U wooden buildings, Mauerlat is the last crown. On brick walls, make a monolithic reinforced concrete belt with a cross-section of 400×300 mm. Along the belt, place threaded pins 12 mm in diameter, every 120 mm, for fastening.

Drill holes with a diameter of 12 mm in the Mauerlat, lay them so that the pins go into the holes. Tighten the top with nuts. First, we lay two layers of roofing felt or roofing felt under the block. On the outside of the wall, lay the mauerlat with bricks. Lay the Mauerlat on a horizontally and vertically level base. You need to check with a level that the surface is horizontal. Check diagonals. If necessary, level with pads.

Installation instructions for beams, racks, rafters, struts and tie rods

The installation of a gable roof rafter system with your own hands is carried out in the following order:

1. Install the beam with the rafters in place.
2. Mark the installation step of the rafter legs.
3. Prepare according to the size of the rack.
4. Install them if there is a need to secure them with spacers.
5. Lay the purlin. Check geometry. Install fasteners.
6. Try on the first rafter leg and mark the cutting areas.
7. Mark the points and install the rafters at the beginning and end of the roof, stretch the cord between them in order to align the remaining elements along it.
8. Having installed the rafter leg, we first attach it to the mauerlat, then to the ridge purlin, to each other.
9. Screw each second leg to the mauerlat with wire.

The rafters are fastened to the mauerlat using notches, stop corners and a hemmed support bar. Secure with nails or staples.

Methods for attaching rafters to the Mauerlat

Install the support posts on the beds or pads and overlays. A log is a beam 50×100 mm or 50×150 mm, laid on the middle wall along a layer of roofing felt. Place brick pillars under the linings, 2 bricks high.

The rafter legs are connected to each other at the ridge. Let's consider the common connection nodes of the rafter system:

1. They make cuts at one leg and cut down at the other. Insert one leg into the cut of the other and fasten with a bolt.
2. Install overlays, wooden or metal.
3. Using notches in the purlin, they are secured with nails or bolts.

Methods for connecting rafters on a ridge

To ensure the roof's resistance to wind loads, tie-rods, struts and purlins are installed. The tightening is a 100×150 mm block, purlins and struts are made from a 50×150 mm or 100×150 mm block.

With the installation of contractions, the reliability of the rafter structure increases. The sections of the timber are the same as the rafters. They are attached to the legs with bolts or nails. The device of struts adds rigidity to the structure. They are installed tightly to the surface of the rafters

Lumber has standard length 6 m. Rafters can be longer. Then you need to dock them. There are several connection methods:

1. Fasten by placing bars on both sides at the junction, connecting them with nails in a checkerboard pattern.
2. Connect with an overlap, one part of the rafters to another, at a distance of 1 meter, fasten with nails in an alternating order.
3. Make a cut obliquely, cut out part of the rafter legs, connect them, strengthening them with bolts.

Sheathing device

Lathing is installed along the roof rafters. It serves to distribute the load from roofing material and snow onto the rafters. Plays the role of an air gap between the roof and the rafter system.

The design of the sheathing depends on the roofing material used:

• under the soft tiles, make the sheathing continuous, lay an anti-condensation film on the rafters, press it on top with a counter batten, nail the sheathing onto it, then OSB boards and underlayment carpet, lay the tiles on top.
• Under the roof made of corrugated sheets, the sheathing should be sparse. The pitch of the sheathing depends on the brand of corrugated sheeting, its thickness and the angle of inclination of the roof.
• The lathing for standard slate should be made in increments of 500 mm from a bar of 75×75 mm or 50×50, as well as boards from 30×100 mm. The design features of the roof should be taken into account when making the final choice of the appropriate option.

The lumber from which the sheathing is made is first or second grade pine. It is advisable to take the width no more than 14 cm. With a wider width, the boards may warp and damage the roofing. The length of the nails should be three times the thickness of the sheathing. Lay the boards along the ridge. Install the first board of greater thickness to the height of the roofing.

Install continuous sheathing along the roof slope.

The first layer is to place a board along the ridge from it at a distance of 500-1000 mm to the next one and so on. Lay the second layer of sheathing along the rafters. Place the joint between the boards only on the rafters at intervals. Sink the nail, head and all, into the flesh of the wood.

Cornice overhangs

They are installed to protect from precipitation and play an aesthetic role. Eaves overhangs are arranged tightly without gaps. The final stage on roofing.

Diagram of the eaves overhang of a gable roof

Gable

The gable roof has two gables. They have the shape of a triangle, with the apex at the ridge and the sides coincide with the slopes of the roof. Gables support rafters and enclose attic space. They protect from wind and precipitation and provide stability to the roof.

IN wooden buildings the pediment is made frame. IN brick buildings, frame or brick. Gables made of brick or gas block are erected before the roofing is installed. They require very precise execution.

Frame pediments fit into the finished opening when the rafter system is already assembled.

The frame is made of bars or boards. The frame elements are connected on tenons or in the wood floor, all fastened with nails. They are sheathed by nailing boards, lining or siding, maintaining the color scheme in the decoration of the building facade. To construct a window opening, an additional frame is made under it according to the size of the window. If the attic is insulated, then the gable also needs to be insulated. The insulation is placed in the middle of the frame. Mineral wool insulation with reduced flammability is used. On the outside, the frame is covered with a hydro-windproof film or windproof membrane, with inside under finishing material nail a vapor-proof film or a vapor-proof membrane.

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In previous articles that described the structure of the roof, we already said that the hanging rafters rest with their lower ends on the mauerlat, and the upper ends of adjacent rafters rest (either directly or through a ridge board) against each other. In the most simplified version, this is shown in Fig. 1:

Picture 1

I think it is obvious to everyone that with such an arrangement, bursting loads appear on the walls. To reduce them, tie downs are added to the truss. But let's talk about everything in order.

As an example, let’s take a house with a semi-attic in the Volgograd region. The sum of snow and wind loads is 155 kg/m2. The dimensions of the house box are 8x10 meters. The thickness of the walls is 50 cm. The angle of inclination of the slopes is 40° (see Fig. 2):

Figure 2

STEP 1: We install. In this design, in addition to the usual loads, pushing forces will act on it, tending to move it from the wall. For more reliable fastening, you can anchor bolts(or studs) add more metal mounting plates (see Fig. 3). The plates can be secured to the wall, for example, with frame anchors, and to the Mauerlat using nails, self-tapping screws, and wood grouse.

Figure 3

STEP 2: We define required section rafters We carry out the calculation in the “Arch” tab (see Fig. 4):

Figure 4

The cross-section of the rafters is taken to be 50x200 mm in increments of 60 cm.

A question may immediately arise here. Where do we get the distance from the ridge to the tie rod? For us it is 2 meters. Earlier on the site, we already said that before we start building a roof, we need to make a drawing of it on paper, always to scale (with all proportions respected). If you know how, you can draw on the computer. Further, using this drawing, we determine all the dimensions and angles that interest us.

Tie-downs are installed between hanging rafters to reduce bursting loads on the walls. The lower the tension, the more benefit it will provide. Those. the less bursting load there is on the walls. But since in our example the puffs still play a role ceiling beams attic floor, then we determine the height of their location based on the ceiling height we need. I took this height of 2.5 meters (see Fig. 5):

Figure 5

STEP 3: We make a template for the lower cut of the rafters. To do this, we take a piece of board of the desired section about a meter long, apply it to the mauerlat at our angle of inclination of the slopes of 40° (focus on the pediment) and make markings, as shown in Figure 6:

Figure 6

We draw the vertical and horizontal lines we need (shown in blue) using a level. The depth of the cut is 5 cm.

So, let's make a template.

STEP 4: We install a ridge board, through which all the rafters will be connected to each other. First you need to outline the location of its installation.

We take the template we made earlier and apply it to the Mauerlat. We are interested in the size shown in Figure 7 (here it is 18 cm):

Figure 7

Let's call the lowest point on the Mauerlat point “A”.

We transfer the resulting size to the top of the pediment, make markings in accordance with Figure 8:

Figure 8

We will designate the lower right corner as point “B”. Now we can measure the distance from the attic floor to point B (the length of the temporary racks).

We install strictly vertically temporary racks from 50x200 boards and place a ridge board of the same section on them. To fix them, you can put a board under the posts, secured with simple dowel nails to the floor slabs (see Fig. 9). There is no need to fasten it too much, then we will remove it. The distance between the posts is no more than 3 meters.

Figure 9

We attach the ridge board to the gables with metal brackets. The stability of the racks is ensured by the jibs.

Perhaps you could see somewhere how hanging rafters are installed without a ridge board (see figure on the left). I am very familiar with this method; we did this before too.

But when we tried the option with a ridge board, we settled on it. Despite the fact that it takes some time to install the racks and ridge board, the subsequent installation of the rafters is much more convenient and faster. As a result, you win in time. In addition, the design is more stable and more geometrically smooth.

STEP 5: We manufacture and install rafters.

We make the rafters like this: take a board required length, apply the template to one end, mark it and make the bottom cut. Then use a tape measure to measure the distance between points “A” and “B” (see Fig. 7-8). We transfer this size to our workpiece and make the top cut. The angle we need for the top cut is on our template (see Fig. 10). For us it is 90°+40° = 130°

Figure 10

This is how we install all the rafters (see Fig. 11)

Figure 11

The connection of the rafters with the Mauerlat here does not look the same as it was, for example. I think you already understand that this is due to the presence of bursting loads, which were not present in that version. However, in future articles you will see that this option is just one of the possible, and not the only correct one. We will also use cuts that are more familiar to us. The main thing is to securely fasten the rafters to the Mauerlat.

At the top point, the rafters will protrude beyond the ridge board. You can drive small bars between them, or you can leave them as is. This, in principle, does not play any role (see Fig. 12):

Figure 12

We fasten the rafters to the ridge with nails or self-tapping screws. It is not necessary to install any additional fasteners here. In general, in this design, thanks to the lower gash, the rafters seem to be sandwiched between the Mauerlat and the ridge board.

STEP 6: We install the tightening.

We make them from boards of the same section as the rafters. It is not necessary to make any cuts or cuts here. We make the puffs overlapping the rafters. We fasten them with several nails and tighten them with a threaded rod with a diameter of 12-14 mm (see Fig. 13):

Figure 13

Thus, we install all the tightening and remove our temporary stands on which we placed the ridge board:

Figure 14

Now you can guess the purpose of the small windows in the upper part of the pediment. Through them, ventilation of the insulation will be carried out, which will lie on the ceiling of the semi-attic floor (between the puffs).

STEP 7: We attach the eaves overhang fillets to the lower ends of the rafters (see Fig. 15). We make them from boards with a section of 50x100 mm. We make the length of the filly such that we get the eaves overhang of the width we need (40-50 cm), and so that it overlaps the rafter by at least 50 cm. We fasten the filly with several nails and tighten it with 2 threaded rods. In the middle part, for additional support on the wall, you can fasten a small block to the fillet with nails or self-tapping screws.

Figure 15

Please note that at the junction of the overhang fillet with the mauerlat, we do not make a cut on it, because this will reduce its already small cross-section. Here we first make a small cut in the Mauerlat itself (see Fig. 16):

Figure 16

To make the cornice even, use lace. Place the outer fillies first, then pull the string between them and place the rest. In Figure 17, the lace is shown in blue.

Figure 17

Step 8: We already know the following steps from previous articles. We place the fillies on the pediment and attach the wind boards (see Fig. 18):

Figure 18

STEP 9: Now we can leave the cornices as they are.

Let's look at another version of the eaves overhangs (see Fig. 19):

Figure 19

These “earrings” are made from inch boards 10-15 cm wide. We fasten them with self-tapping screws.

Thus, now all we have to do is hem the siding belts to the bottom of the eaves; secured to the rafters protective film, make counter-lattice and sheathing; cover the roof with roofing material. We discussed these steps in previous articles. I think there is no point in repeating myself here and when considering other roof designs in the future.

Gable roof - the best option for an inexperienced builder, which can be done with your own hands. It is simple to implement, but at the same time reliable and can withstand significant loads from both wind and precipitation. She, of course, is not very beautiful, but she looks quite organic in the baths.

To do everything consciously, you need to understand the structure of a gable roof and the purpose of all its elements. Let's start in order.

Mauerlat

This is a large block fixed to the load-bearing walls around the perimeter of the building. It is this element that accounts for most of the load from the roof. And it is the Mauerlat that transfers it to the load-bearing walls.

For this element, square bars measuring 100*100 mm or 150*150 mm are used. They are connected to the walls using embedded studs. If the bathhouse is wooden, then the upper crown usually serves as the Mauerlat. For all other types of walls, a belt is made of reinforced concrete into which studs are embedded. Then the beam of the selected section is “put on” the studs and tightened with nuts. Sometimes it is additionally secured with long pins.

Since the thickness of the walls is often greater than the width of the mauerlat, its outer side can be covered with bricks. This will make the system more reliable. Only the wood needs to be wrapped in two layers of roofing felt to protect it from moisture and rot.

Rafter legs and ridge

The ridge is horizontal wooden beam ok, located at the top point of the roof and connecting two slopes. The rafters or rafters rest on it and on the mauerlat. Since the ridge bears quite a large load, it needs to be made of a large cross-section and choose durable wood.

The height of the roof ridge is determined based on the roof slope and the width of the building. The slope angle of the roof is a value that depends on climatic factors: if there is a lot of snow in winter, then you need to make the slopes steeper. The snow will come off well from them. If there are strong winds in the region, the high roof will experience heavy loads and may be damaged.

For average conditions optimal angle The roof slope is about 35°-45°. They will not be heavily loaded by the wind, and the snow will not accumulate heavily. In addition, with this angle, you can choose any type of roofing: any of the tiles, soft roofing, slate, metal tiles.

Also remember, the higher the ridge is raised (steeper the slopes), the larger the roof area will be. And this will lead to the fact that the purchase costs roofing materials and the volume of work will be large.

Knowing the slope angle and width of your bathhouse, you can calculate the height of the roof ridge. To do this, the width of the building must be divided by two (if the ridge is in the middle and not shifted to one side or the other) and multiplied by the tangent of the slope angle (the first formula in the figure). In order not to look for the required coefficient in mathematical tables, it is written out and summarized in a simple table.

Roof pitch angle	5	10	15	20	25	30	35	40	45	50	55	60
Tg A (ridge height calculation)	0,08	0,17	0,26	0,36	0,47	0,59	0,76	0,86	1	1,22	1,45	1,78
Sin A (rafter length calculation)	0,09	0,17	0,26	0,34	0,42	0,5	0,57	0,64	0,71	0,77	0,82	0,87

Multiply half the width of the house by this coefficient. Get the height of the ridge for your bathhouse. For example, the width of the bathhouse is 4 meters, the angle chosen is 35°. We calculate: 4 m / 2 * 0.76 = 1.52 m - the height of the ridge from the ceiling.

Now about the rafter legs. They are made from pine or spruce bars, or better yet, larch. Section 50*150 mm or 50*100 mm. The choice of thickness of the bars depends on:

The length of the rafter leg is also calculated using a mathematical formula: the height of the ridge is divided by the sine of the angle of inclination (second formula in the figure). The sines of the angles of inclination are also in the table. Find the desired value and count. For example, for the 1.52 m ridge we found and the rafter angle of 35°, 1.52 m / 0.57 = 2.67 m will be needed.

Roof overhang and filly

But the roof does not end exactly above load-bearing wall. It continues beyond the walls for about 40 cm. This protrusion is called the roof overhang. This is done so that the water flows further from the foundation and does not wash it away. That’s why the rafter legs are longer. If their length is not enough, they are extended with boards called “fillies”.

To organize the roof overhang, boards are added to the rafters - fillies

Types of rafter systems

Rafter systems come with hanging or layered rafter legs. Those hanging rest only on the outer walls of the building (on the mauerlat or upper crown). In order to increase the reliability of the system, so as not to collapse the walls, they are connected with ties (also called a lintel or crossbar). This type of rafter system is suitable for buildings of small width (less than 10 m) and in cases where there is no load-bearing wall running in the middle.

Two types of rafter systems - with hanging and layered rafters

The second type of system is with layered rafters. They rest on a ridge beam and a mauerlat, but the load from the roof is also distributed onto the middle load-bearing wall, through vertical bars - purlins, which are installed at the same pitch as the rafters and rest on the bottom tie.

Do-it-yourself installation of gable roof rafters

For most baths, the system is made with hanging rafter legs - the dimensions allow this to be done. In this case, there is less consumption of lumber and less time is required for its arrangement. Most of the work can be transferred to the ground.

They make one triangle from the rafters according to all the rules and dimensions. They try it on and then make it required quantity its exact copies. The finished rafters with ties and crossbars, fastened and measured, are lifted onto the roof. There they are placed strictly vertically in designated places and secured to the Mauerlat and the ridge.

For an example of how you can make a gable roof with hanging rafters, see the video.

When the length of the roof slope is more than 4.5 meters, to increase the reliability of the system, vertical posts are installed, which support the rafter leg with one end and rest against the floor beam with the other. This is done regardless of the type of rafter installation: both hanging and layered. They also install slopes that make the structure even more rigid.

In any case, the rafters will need to be attached to the ridge beam, as well as to the mauerlat. The figure below shows options for attaching to the ridge.

It will also be necessary to attach the rafters to the mauerlat. How this can be done - see the photo below.

Sheathing device

Making a gable roof with your own hands ends with the installation of sheathing for the roofing material. For this purpose outside the rafters are rolling out waterproofing film or membrane. Lay it in a horizontal direction. Start from the bottom and work your way up. The second and all subsequent rows are laid with an overlap of at least 15-20 cm. They are secured with small nails or staples from a staple gun.

After installing the rafter system, a waterproofing film or membrane is attached to it, and a sheathing is placed on top

There are two ways - with or without counter-latching. The counter-lattice is stuffed along the rafters, and on top there are sheathing bars. Thus, between the waterproofing and the roofing material, a air gap. This option is better from the point of view that such a roof will dry out better and faster. And this is very important for baths.

Without a counter-lattice, the bars are packed directly on top of the waterproofing. There is a gap here too, but it is smaller, therefore, the ventilation will be worse. But this option is also acceptable: less consumption of materials and work.

After making the sheathing, all that remains is to secure the selected roofing material.

Results

Now you know how to make a gable roof with your own hands. Of all the types, this is the simplest option that can be made by a non-specialist.

Easiest to implement gable roof at the same time it is also the most reliable. The availability of do-it-yourself execution does not give rise to self-confidence - before starting work, you need to thoroughly familiarize yourself with the design features in order to make qualified decisions and implement them.

Scheme and features of the gable roof structure

A gable roof is a roof formed by the intersection of two rectangular slopes at a certain angle. This device is the most reliable and simple, so even a person with average carpentry skills can install a gable roof on their own.

The base of the roof is the rafter system, which acts as a support for the roofing pie and the finishing coating. The service life of the roof and the comfort of living in the house depend on its strength and reliability. The rafter system, subject to regular wind and snow loads, must be securely fastened to the building body. This problem is solved with the help of a Mauerlat, which is firmly fixed to the upper plane of the walls of the house. This creates an almost monolithic system that reliably protects inner space home from any manifestations of the external environment.

Photo gallery: how you can use the space under a gable roof

Under a gable roof you can arrange residential attic A gable roof with a Danish half-hip enhances the exterior of the building and allows you to increase the size of the attic. The attic above the garage can be used to store spare parts, create a rest room, or equip a warehouse for household equipment. The area of ​​the attic under a gable roof depends on the height of the ridge and the angle of inclination of the slopes

Design of a gable roof truss system

A roof with two opposite slopes is the most common design used in individual housing construction. The intersection line forms the ridge, and the side openings of the outer rafter legs serve to construct pediments - vertically located walls that create a closed under-roof space. To obtain a strong and durable structure, many supporting and reinforcing elements are used, giving additional rigidity to the entire structure. The gable structure is based on a triangle - the most rigid geometric figure. The rafter system consists of the following main elements:

1. Mauerlat is a wooden beam that acts as a connecting element between the frame of the house and its rafter system. It is attached to the walls with threaded rods, anchor screws or wire harnesses. Size cross section timber ranges from 100x100 to 150x150 mm and depends on the size of the building, its number of floors and the shape of the roof.
2. The rafter leg is a wooden beam measuring 50x150 or 100x150 mm, connecting at the top point of the roof with the ridge and resting with the opposite end on the mauerlat. Rafters are the main load-bearing element of the roofing system, supporting all types of external loads: wind, snow, rain and the structure’s own weight.

   Rafter trusses form the roof's load-bearing frame and determine its geometric shape

3. Lezhen - a timber beam laid horizontally with support on the internal load-bearing wall. The size of the bench is usually equal to the size of the mauerlat. Is a support for roof racks.
4. Tightening is an element used in hanging rafter systems. Its purpose is to compensate for tensile forces occurring at the lower ends of the rafter legs.
5. Racks are square beams that transfer part of the load from the rafters to the beams.
6. Struts are structural elements that transfer part of the load from the rafter legs to the tie. In this way, a truss with increased strength characteristics is formed.
7. Counter grill - wooden blocks sizes from 25x50 to 50x50 mm, stuffed onto the top edge of the rafters. The purpose of the counter batten is to form a ventilation gap between the batten and the waterproofing film. This element is required when installing a roofing pie in the attic.
8. Sheathing is the supporting base for installing the finishing roof covering. The sheathing can be solid or sparse and can be made of 25 mm thick boards, waterproof plywood, OSB sheets and other similar materials. The choice of lathing design depends on the characteristics of the finishing coating.
9. A ridge is a horizontal beam along which the opposite slopes intersect.
10. The roof overhang is a continuation of the rafters at a distance of up to 40 cm from the walls of the building. It protects walls from getting wet and also serves to place soffits, which are an integral part of the ventilation system for the under-roof space. If the rafter length is insufficient, the overhang is formed by additional parts to lengthen them - fillets.

    The rafter system of a gable roof consists of triangular trusses resting on the Mauerlat and ridge, sheathing and several auxiliary elements that strengthen the structure

Calculation of the load on the rafter system of a gable roof

The rafter system experiences certain loads, which can be divided into two types.

1. Constant loads that act independently of any other factors. Their size is determined by the design of the roofing pie and consists of the weight of waterproofing and vapor barrier films, insulation, additional elements, fasteners and any other elements of the roofing covering, including the finishing one. In practice, the average weight of all components of the roof of a house is about 40–45 kg/m2. More accurately, this value can be calculated by summing up the specific load values ​​of each material used, which can be taken from reference tables. When calculating the weight of the roof, it is recommended to provide a safety margin of 10%.

   When calculating the load, the weight of each element of the roofing pie is taken into account

2. Variable loads. These include the effects of wind and snow, depending on their intensity. In essence, the roof of a house is a sail that absorbs the load from the wind. The force of direct impact on the roof along the normal depends on the angle of inclination of the slope - the smaller it is, the lower the load. At the same time, turbulence occurs on the leeward slope, and a load appears on the roof with a reverse vector of influence. In hurricane winds, the lifting force can reach 630 kg/m2. Variable loads also include snow impacts. It should be noted that they also have clearly defined regional indicators.

   Wind loads are a risk factor for roofs as they create large tearing and overturning forces

Obviously, careful calculation of loads from snow and wind, taking into account local climatic conditions, is vital when choosing roofing structures and materials. These loads can be determined from a map drawn up on the basis of SNiP 2.01.07–85.

Using the map, you can determine the magnitude of wind and snow loads in the construction region

The snow and wind load values ​​​​marked on the maps for each area are called standard. In order to obtain the calculated snow load, the standard value must be multiplied by a special coefficient that takes into account the angle of inclination of the roof. This coefficient is equal to:

• 1 with a slope of less than 25 o;
• 0.7 at an angle of inclination from 25 to 60 o;
• 0 for steeper slopes.

The design wind load is determined by multiplying normative value by a coefficient that takes into account the height of the building and the type of area in which construction is being carried out.

Table: correction factor for calculating wind load (taking into account the height of the building and type of terrain)

The specific load of the most popular roofing materials can be taken from the following table.

Table: weight indicators of some roofing materials

Take into account the characteristics of the impact different types loads can only be taken in aggregate, so calculations of this nature should be entrusted to an experienced specialist.

Video: calculation of the rafter system

Types of gable roof rafter systems

According to the principle of construction, rafter systems are of two types:

1. Hanging.
2. Layered.

Hanging rafters are used for buildings in which load-bearing supports are located at a distance of up to 10 meters in the absence of an intermediate wall inside the building box. For other cases, it is necessary to use a layered rafter system.

Features of the hanging rafter system

The support for hanging rafters is the external walls. Since the arch has a connection at the top point, when vertical loads are applied to it, bursting loads are created on the lower supports. To compensate for them, ties are used - horizontal ligaments between the lower ends of the rafter legs. The result is a rigid power triangle. When installing attic room Floor beams are used as tension. Various possible Constructive decisions hanging rafter system:

1. A simple three-joint arch. It is a triangle-shaped structure. In this case, the tightening works only for tension and is not supporting. Therefore, it can be replaced with regular metal beam. The connection of the cornice assembly in this case is made by a simple orthogonal insertion using wooden overlays or metal plates.

   The three-hinged arch is the simplest truss design for a gable roof

2. Three-hinged arch with reinforcement. This scheme was previously used during the construction industrial buildings, when the span length exceeded 6 meters. The tightening is suspended on a headstock made of wood. The nodes are connected using metal parts and is equipped with devices for adjusting tension. The main load in such a system falls on the roof ridge. Such rafter systems are not used in individual housing construction.

   A three-hinged arch with reinforcement differs from a simple one by the presence of a vertical stiffener rib (headstock) and the ability to adjust the tension at the joints

3. Articulated arch with raised drawstring. In this option, the rafter leg is partially unloaded through the roof ridge by hanging it from a raised tie. It rises to a height of at least 2.2 m from the attic floor level. This system is ideal for constructing an attic space in the under-roof space. The connection of the tie with the rafters is made by inserting, as a result of which the connection in the node becomes motionless.

   A hinged arch with a raised tie is ideal for installing an attic under-roof space

4. A three-hinged arch with a crossbar is used to strengthen the rafter system by creating an additional force triangle. The system is used under significant bursting loads. The connection between the crossbar and the rafters must be stationary, otherwise the entire system will not have the necessary rigidity.

   Additional horizontal element(crossbar) gives the system greater resistance to thrust loads

The bolt, unlike the bottom tightening, works on compression, not tension.

In addition to those listed, other elements are also used to strengthen the roofing skeleton. Very popular are struts and racks located in the system in places of greatest load on the rafters.

In the busiest places roof trusses can be reinforced with struts and racks

Video: rafter system step by step

Layered rafter systems

Layered rafters are used for buildings more than 10 meters wide. They are characterized by the presence of a load-bearing wall inside the building, which provides additional support for the rafter system. Layered structures come in several types:

In non-thrust layered systems, the main load from the roof frame is transferred to the Mauerlat

Determining the pitch of the gable roof rafters

The problem of ensuring sufficient strength of the rafter system is solved by selecting the material for the manufacture of its elements and calculating the parameters of their installation. The pitch of the rafters is one of these elements and is selected depending on the weight of the roofing pie. The distance between the support beams is usually set within 0.6–1.5 m. The actual pitch between the rafters depends on the geometry of the roof and is calculated as follows:

1. The number of rafter legs is determined. To do this, you need to use the ratio n = L / d 1 + 1, where n is the number of rafter legs, L is the length of the roof along the ridge, d 1 is the desired distance between the rafters.
2. The estimated distance between the rafters is calculated, for which the length of the roof along the ridge is divided by the amount obtained in the previous paragraph: d = L / n.

For example, consider an option with a roof length of 13 m with a preferred distance between the rafters of 750 mm (option for a roof with ceramic tiles).

1. Number of rafter legs n = 13000 / 750 +1 = 18.33. Since the number of rafters must be an integer, we round this value to 19.
2. Rafter pitch d = 13000: 19 = 684 (mm).

Thus, on the roof we have chosen, the rafters must be installed in increments of 68.4 mm.

It should be remembered that the result obtained is the distance between the axes of the rafters.

Knots of the rafter system of a gable roof

Main types of connections in nodes load-bearing structure We have already discussed roofs above. But it makes sense to dwell in more detail on auxiliary materials, allowing you to make the rafter system more reliable and durable.

You can strengthen the fastening of parts when installing the rafter system using metal plates and corners of various shapes

Such products are made from galvanized steel up to 1.5 mm thick. They have different configuration and can be installed on any type of connection.

Photo gallery: types of connections in the nodes of the rafter system of a gable roof

In the ridge part, the rafter legs are usually connected by flat plates with bolts To strengthen the structure of the rafter system, you need to select metal plates, corresponding to the configuration of the fastening unit Sliding node mates unload truss structure The junction points in the rafter system can be additionally reinforced with metal inserts Depending on the type of rafter system used, there are different ways ridge assembly fastenings On flat connections operating under heavy loads, it is convenient to use nail plates

All connecting nodes of the rafter system have the function of strengthening the rafters due to the redistribution of loads and strengthening load-bearing elements. So, in the lower part, the rafter is supported on the mauerlat at a right angle, for which appropriate inserts are made.

To strengthen the rafter system, they try to use connections with maximum bearing capacity, for example, inserting rafters into the mauerlat at a right angle

In addition, metal mounting plates are used at the docking points for additional reinforcement. The same principle is used when installing struts to the rafters. In any case, the mating parts must work “steadily” and not move during operation.

Any parts must be loaded along their axis

There are three main types of nodes in the rafter system:

1. Ridge connections. This is the joining of two rafter legs at a given angle along the line of intersection of the slopes. They can be hinged or blind. The first ones are used when constructing a rafter system on timber or log houses, which tend to sag and rise depending on the season during almost the entire service life. Blind connections are used in rafter systems of houses made of building stone. In such buildings, it is installed on top of the wall reinforced belt, which takes on lateral loads.
2. Fastening the lower ends of the rafter legs to the Mauerlat. Since they are located at an angle to the support beam, a sliding vector is created, directed towards the outside of the building. To compensate for this, a cut-in is made in the mauerlat, and a heel is made on the rafter. The rafter is inserted into the groove with emphasis on it and fastened with a nail through the rib of the beam into the mauerlat. Additional supporting parts made of bars are also used. In cases where the rafter beam must move (by wooden log houses), sliding fastenings are used. They make it possible to compensate for seasonal changes in wall height.
3. Other nodes. All other parts of rafter systems are essentially thrust elements that work in compression, rarely in tension. They are installed by cutting into the mating parts to prevent them from moving under load. Such parts include crossbars, struts, racks, stops and other similar parts.

For a stronger connection, use additional elements mentioned above.

Installation of a gable rafter system

Currently construction market offers services for the production of individual roof trusses for specific buildings. It should be noted that this service has a number of advantages:

1. Guaranteed product quality ensured by application special equipment and assembly technologies.
2. Safety in terms of fire protection, since all parts of the trusses are subjected to fire retardant treatment.
3. Increased service life, which is achieved by antibacterial treatment of products with special compounds.
4. Easy to install ready-made trusses.

The only drawback of this method of installing a rafter system is the relatively high cost of the products.

For self-construction for a gable roof, you can use ready-made roof trusses ordered from professional manufacturers

Assembling roof trusses on the ground

Assembling rafters on the ground is used in cases where there is a flat area of ​​sufficient size directly next to the house for making trusses. In this case, not complete trusses are installed, but rigid structures of three or four parts, which can be lifted to the installation site by the efforts of two or three people. The lifting is done using ropes along the sledges. The advantage of this assembly method is the ability to use a single template, which ensures high accuracy manufacturing of each structural element. A possible option for partial installation of trusses below is as follows:

1. Make a slipway for assembling trusses. It consists of three platforms, the distance between which corresponds to the length of the mating parts. They can be assembled from several boards or beams located in the same horizontal plane.

   For ease of assembly of the rafter frame on the ground, you need vacant plot a certain size and auxiliary elements, on which design parts can be placed

2. To assemble the first truss, you need to take two rafter legs and a tie - lower or upper.
3. Having laid out the parts on the slipway, place them in accordance with the truss drawing and fasten them with nails. Check the truss blank for compliance with the dimensions specified in the technical documentation. If necessary, adjust the location of the components.
4. Perform final fixation of parts in the truss units using additional fastening plates. Nail plates can be installed using a power clamp, using additional plate steel pads under its jaws.

   The power clamp allows you to pre-tighten the nail plates and then secure them in any convenient way

5. Lay the parts of the second truss on top of the first and secure with clamps, exactly following the contours of the lower truss, which acts as a template. After assembling the second truss, remove it to the side.
6. Make the required number of trusses, repeating the operations from the previous paragraph. This ensures full compliance of all manufactured trusses.

   When making trusses using one template, they will exactly repeat the size and shape of each other

Installation of the rafter system at the installation site is carried out as follows:

1. The first two trusses rise to the roof. To do this, you can use an inclined flooring made of several beams and fairly strong ropes.
2. The gable trusses at the ends of the roof are installed first. They need to be set strictly vertically and secured to the Mauerlat with temporary jibs.

   The gable trusses need to be installed first.

3. A construction cord is stretched between the gable trusses perpendicular to the location of the rafter legs.
4. Each subsequent truss is installed in compliance with the previously calculated rafter pitch.

   To ensure that all trusses are installed level, twine is stretched between the outer structures

5. After installing the last truss, the entire structure of the rafter system is strengthened with purlins, after which the temporary fastenings are dismantled.
6. Next, the remaining structural elements are installed - jibs, ridge beams, supports, racks, etc., provided for in the rafter system design.

The roof is given additional strength by the sheathing, which is added last.

Assembling rafter legs directly at the installation site

Local assembly of rafters is used on small roofs. At the same time, blank bars are fed upward, from which the necessary parts are cut. Installation is carried out from the bottom up, starting with the installation of the rafter legs. The horizontal level of the rafter system is controlled by tensioned cords, and the verticality of the truss assembly is controlled by a plumb line. The installation procedure is the same: first the gable trusses are installed, then the rest in any convenient order.

The assembly of the rafter system directly on the roof begins with the installation of racks and a ridge girder on which the rafters are laid

By strictly fulfilling the requirements of the drawings, you can install the rafter system yourself. It is almost impossible to do this alone, so the participation of one or two assistants is mandatory.

Video: DIY rafter installation

During assembly rafter frame For a gable roof, it is important to adhere to certain rules:

1. All wood used for installation of the rafter system must be treated with antiseptic and fire-retardant compounds.
2. When working with hand-held power tools, you must comply with the safety requirements specified in the instructions.
3. Installation of nail plates cannot be done by hammering them in, as this will lead to their deformation. When installing, you must use a clamping tool.
4. A layer of waterproofing must be laid under the Mauerlat. Traditionally, roofing felt is used for this.
5. When installing the rafter system, you must use fasteners with a protective coating.
6. Installation of the rafter system should be carried out in dry, windless weather.

Video: gable roof for metal tiles

Like any roofing system, a gable roof requires careful and responsible handling. Mistakes in the construction of such roofs are usually expensive. It is important not only to carefully select materials, but also to use them correctly. Nevertheless, the bulk of the work can be done independently. I wish you success!