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The chimney is a key link in the heating system of a house. The quality of functioning of the chimney is determined by the efficiency, economy and safety of heating. These properties are laid down at the stages of project development, material selection and construction of the heating system. The decision to perform the listed work independently or with the involvement of professionals is decided by the customer. It is important to make this choice rationally and carefully.

How does a chimney work and why is it needed?

Let's look at the chimney structure using an example. brick oven. It is a single structure on a separate foundation. The blower hole provides a controlled air flow to the firebox, thereby setting the combustion intensity. The chimney masonry must provide maximum heat transfer room, and the passage through the roof and attic must be reliably insulated to protect against fire. All dimensions that affect safety and at the same time ensure the efficiency of the heating system are defined in special building codes ah (SNiP).

When designing stoves and chimneys, unconditional compliance with the requirements of the standards is required fire safety

The topic of efficient use of energy resources is an important task both in the country’s economy and for each individual family. Therefore, the efficiency of using various devices for heating living space and using heat for domestic needs is always relevant.

The chimney in a balanced and tuned heating system provides a normal combustion mode, in which the maximum amount of fuel is converted into thermal energy. This means that the maximum heat from the stored fuel is used to heat the room, and combustion products are discharged into the atmosphere with minimum quantity harmful substances. Thus, more complete combustion of fuel helps to normalize the environment and reduces risks for people living nearby. It is known that carbon monoxide is the most dangerous. To exclude its release into the living area is the main purpose of the chimney. For this reason, there cannot be any small details during installation or construction.

Chimneys from steel pipe usually used in heating systems based on gas boilers

How to make a chimney with your own hands

We have accumulated vast experience in the installation of stoves and chimneys. Materials and components for this are presented in specialized stores in a large assortment to suit every taste and budget. The availability of information on construction technology in specialized publications and on specialized websites allows you to perform this work yourself if you have sufficient experience, tools and equipment.

Video: example of a chimney device

It is already important initial stage perform competently design work, determine the type of chimney, foundation parameters, and, if necessary, perform calculations to select components and materials.

Calculations when building a chimney

Various chimney designs must be manufactured and installed in compliance with current standards and regulations. But, as practice shows, when arranging heating system mistakes are made very often. As a result, there are often complaints that the stove consumes an incredible amount of fuel with low output. In ancient times, an experienced stove maker diagnosed the stove by the nature of the firewood combustion, the sound and appearance of the smoke and could correct all its defects.

“...The stove turned out to be excellent, it required less firewood than the old one, three times, it had good heating and did not get cold.

The fame of the new stove-maker spread instantly: the supply of firewood became tight, and according to signs, the winter was going to be cold. They started coming and asking the professor to build a stove for them too...”

Alexander Chudakov

“Darkness falls on the old steps”, an idyll novel. Ed. Time. Moscow 2016

How to calculate the chimney diameter

The diameter of the chimney in the manufacture of stoves is a design parameter. And it’s enough for future customers to simply know about this, but still leave the calculations themselves to specialists. Each industrial furnace has a passport, which indicates all the necessary parameters for operation, including the dimensions of the chimney. If the stove is made with your own hands, to avoid mistakes it is better to seek help from professionals, since you will take into account all the factors and find optimal parameters a chimney for a specific boiler or stove can only be installed at the site of its installation.

Chimney length and required height above the ridge

Centuries of experience in installing chimneys, as well as modern technologies using special devices and techniques will help you find optimal height chimney and determine its position relative to the ridge. For an average stove, the total height of the chimney from the grate to its top should be at least 5 m.

As for the position of the chimney relative to the roof ridge, its elevation above it should be as follows:

• at least 0.5 m above a flat roof;
• not less than 0.5 m at a distance from the roof ridge of up to 1.5 m;
• flush with the ridge at a distance from the roof ridge of up to 3.0 m;
• not lower than a conventional line drawn down at an angle of 10° to the horizon when located at a distance of more than 3 m from the ridge.

With the correct position of the chimney relative to the ridge, the heating system will operate as economically as possible

The amount of elevation may be affected by the presence of obstacles, such as a neighboring building or tree.

Choosing material for the chimney

The choice of material for the chimney is determined by two factors: price and quality. As a rule, high quality requires corresponding financial costs. For example, you cannot compare the costs of a chimney made of special red brick with the costs of a chimney made of galvanized pipe.

The most common and popular types of materials are:

• steel pipe (petroleum), stainless or galvanized steel pipe;
• asbestos pipe;
• sandwich pipe;
• brick.

Let's take a closer look at the listed materials.

This option is well suited for stoves in temporary or summer buildings and baths due to the low cost of materials and ease of installation. The design of a sauna stove often involves installing a tank for heating water directly on a steel chimney. This solution allows efficient use of fuel for heating the room and water.

Modern stainless steel products look very attractive.

Modern stainless steel components allow you to build high-quality and reliable chimney with impeccable appearance

Advantages steel chimney:

• low cost of material, manufacturability and reliability of installation by welding thick-walled pipes;
• no need to build a foundation;
• smooth inner surface, preventing the rapid accumulation of soot;
• ease of maintenance and cleaning.

The disadvantages include the following properties:

• the need for reliable thermal insulation at the junction with the roof;
• low durability (for example, when using galvanized thin-walled pipes).

The installation sequence can be divided into 2 stages: design and assembly. The project stage includes everything preparatory work, development of sketches, drawings, acquisition of materials and everything else necessary for the second stage - assembly and installation. Here it is assumed that the installation of the furnace itself has already been completed.

Brief step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney from a steel pipe

1. Development of a sketch layout: taking the dimensions of the room indicating the location of the stove or fireplace, required sizes from the furnace outlet ring to the opening in the wall with an external chimney installation.

   The diagram shows all the components of the chimney and the sequence of its assembly

2. Selection of standard components in accordance with the recommendations of the furnace manufacturer. A standard set of pipelines, as a rule, is not enough, and therefore, in accordance with the actual dimensions of the room, additional fragments will be required. The composition of these fragments will be clear after the measurements are completed.
3. Calculation of the quantity of materials and specifications of components, including kits for thermal insulation of the chimney. It is important to carefully review the list of these materials. It is convenient to carry out this work by contacting a specialized store or corresponding websites with online calculators, then you can immediately generate a list of required items by article and quantity.

   In most cases, a standard chimney kit is not enough; you need to calculate a detailed specification of additional materials

4. Preparation of tools and equipment for installation. The list of tools will depend on the chimney material. Required measuring tool, special brackets for attaching pipes to the wall, a hammer drill for drilling walls. Drawing up a list of works will help you navigate the needs of the tool.
5. Marking and preparing components by size. When marking, it is important to consider the joint tolerance. It is best to check the dimensions when pre-assembling the structure before installation.
6. Assembly, installation and testing of the chimney. During assembly, special attention should be paid to sealing joints, since carbon monoxide must be reliably isolated from residential premises. All recommendations given by the oven manufacturer, as well as applicable safety regulations, must be followed. The chimney is tested in the mode of its full heating. It is necessary to monitor the effectiveness of the thermal insulation of pipes in interfloor ceilings and check whether heating of flammable materials, for example, a wooden roof, is observed. Below is a separate section on roof passages.

Proper thermal insulation will provide the necessary level of fire safety and keep the room warm

The presented list of items is for reference only and does not take into account the specific specifics of each project. For this reason, in the absence of experience, it is recommended to involve professional specialists in this responsible work.

Chimney made of asbestos pipe

Asbestos pipes are widespread due to the affordable cost of this material. When using it as a chimney, you should know important application features. They are presented in a list of advantages and disadvantages; let’s look at them in more detail.

A variant of a combined steel and asbestos chimney can be used when changing the roof height

So, the advantages:

• low cost of material;
• environmentally friendly, no direct harmful effects;
• ease of installation.

Disadvantages of the chimney:

• a complete ban on the use of solid fuels with a high combustion temperature (more than 300 o C in the chimney area). At this temperature, a pipe explosion with unpredictable consequences is possible;
• the structure of the material, which has a porous surface, promotes the accumulation of soot. This increases the risk of exceeding the critical temperature due to the additional thermal insulating effect of soot deposits.

Thus, an asbestos pipe can be used as a chimney outside of high temperature zones. If the design of the stove includes a chimney made of different materials, for example, a steel pipe in a high-temperature zone, and then an asbestos ending, then it is quite rational to use this option.

Video: chimney made from asbestos pipe

Brief step-by-step instructions for installing a chimney from an asbestos pipe

To make a chimney from an asbestos pipe, you need a circular saw, a measuring tool, and protective equipment (gloves, mask, respirator). The main steps for installing a chimney with thermal insulation based on mineral wool in the box:

1. Project part of the work. Room measurements. Preparation of a preliminary design with dimensions and list necessary materials and details. The preparatory stage is no different from that in the section for steel pipes.
2. Preparing the premises: making openings for the chimney, installing thermal insulation. Most often, installation in interfloor ceilings is carried out using a steel frame. This design provides additional rigidity because asbestos pipes do not have elasticity.
3. Manufacturing of necessary parts according to developed sketches and dimensions: pipes of the required length, adapters, brackets for wall mounting.

   When installing asbestos chimneys through ceilings, it is necessary to strictly observe fire safety standards and lay the pipes in a rigid steel box

Manufacturing of components for thermal insulation (for example, a box for mineral wool), brackets for attaching the chimney.

Thermal insulation material (mineral wool) is placed in a metal box to protect the floors from fire

Manufacturing of equipment for temporary fastening of the pipeline (stretch) during installation.

Installation of the chimney, installation of a spark arrestor, final fastening of the chimney structure. During installation, it is important to ensure the verticality of the structure. It is recommended to control this value and not allow its deviation by more than 3 o.

The chimney must be carefully fixed using clamps or brackets

4. Assembly, testing and evaluation of the functioning of the heating system. This stage fully corresponds to the point in the previous section.

Sandwich chimney made of stainless steel pipe

The sandwich chimney is an improved form of steel chimneys. The sandwich, true to its name, has a three-layer body consisting of two coaxial pipes, the space between which is filled with a heat insulator.

Sandwich pipe is suitable for all types of heating systems, including closed

The pipes for such a chimney are made of stainless or galvanized steel, and the thermal insulation material can be organic basalt wool or other non-flammable material. This design provides excellent thermal insulation properties, giving the following advantages:

• a universal material that allows it to be used with almost any design of furnaces and boilers;
• high level of fire safety protection due to effective thermal insulation;
• rational use of the internal volume of premises in comparison, for example, with brick chimneys;
• low labor intensity of installation due to the lightness of the design and ease of installation of individual segments;
• ease of maintenance, since on the perfectly smooth surface of the chimney the deposition of combustion products occurs very slowly, and they are easy to remove.
• great appearance, which also carries the properties of a design solution. At the same time, external surfaces are easy to keep clean and attractive;
• the possibility of using the chimney indoors or outdoors;
• insignificant weight of the structure, which eliminates the need to build a separate foundation and reduces the cost of installing a chimney.

The disadvantages of a sandwich chimney include the following properties:

• loss of tightness in a three-layer structure during operation due to sudden temperature changes and exposure to vibration;
• high cost of quality materials.

Sequence for installing the pipeline in general view corresponds to the sequence of work for a chimney made of asbestos pipes.

Brief step-by-step instructions for installing sandwich pipes for a chimney

1. Development of a design sketch: taking the main dimensions of the room, from the furnace outlet ring to the floor and ceiling, then from the ceiling through the attic to the roof. In this case, you should adhere to regulatory requirements to dimensions and structural elements.
   

   When designing a chimney made of sandwich pipes, it is necessary to adhere to regulatory recommendations for the location of its elements

2. Selection of necessary components in accordance with the recommendations of the furnace manufacturer. Based on the diagram and drawings, it is necessary to develop a complete specification of spare parts and components related to the pipeline. To do this, you can use the websites of specialized trading companies.
3. Calculation of the amount of auxiliary materials, including kits for thermal insulation of the chimney when passing through the ceiling and external roof.
4. Preparation of openings in the roof. The main task of preparing the opening is to ensure reliable thermal insulation and compliance with fire safety standards.

   Thermal insulation with expanded clay serves to protect floors from fire and is characterized by its simplicity of design and environmental friendliness

5. Marking and preparing components for installation. This stage is implemented after completion of the acquisition work. The dimensions of the chimney fragments are adjusted and a trial assembly is carried out. Getting ready Additional materials and structures: box for thermal insulation, insulation, fasteners, brackets for fastening.
6. Installation and testing of the chimney is carried out similarly to the testing of the steel chimney described in the previous sections.

Before installing the chimney, you must prepare a complete set of components and materials.

Brick chimney

A brick chimney has always been a presentable option. Of course, in this case the oven is also made of brick. When building houses, the foundation for the stove is built separately. This ensures independent support of the furnace from the foundation for load-bearing walls and reduces the likelihood of dangerous deformations.

A universal brick chimney and stove provide heat and make it possible to cook on the built-in stove

In turn, deformations can cause cracks in the chimney, which poses the risk of carbon monoxide leaking into living rooms.

Structurally, a brick chimney can be laid on the stove itself or nearby, supported by a foundation.

Brief step-by-step instructions and information on arranging a brick chimney

1. Brick preparation. Special bricks are used for masonry, soaked in water before construction. A mixture of sand and clay without adding cement is used as a solution. This solution has the necessary elasticity and resistance to high temperatures. But the main property is that this mixture has the same coefficient of linear thermal expansion as that of brick. It is for this reason that numerous cycles of expansion and compression occur synchronously in the masonry, eliminating the formation of cracks.
2. Making a solution. The average value in the proportion of clay and sand is from 1:3 to 1:4. The technology for preparing masonry mortar has its own time-tested peculiarities. The clay is soaked in water for at least 3 days, until it acquires the consistency of fresh sour cream. There are also certain requirements for sand; the fraction after sifting should be no more than 1 mm. The finished solution of sand and clay should be a homogeneous mass with minimal fluidity.

   The mortar for the brickwork of the furnace is checked using a special method

3. Chimney laying. When passing through the ceilings of a living room, a thickening is arranged - a fluff - in order to isolate the high-temperature zone and ensure fire safety. Thus, the distance between the chimney channel and the roof must be at least 0.25 m. Another thickening, called an otter, is installed for the same purpose when the chimney is routed through the external roof outside the house.

   In brick chimneys, instead of a metal box with insulation, a thickening in the masonry is installed inside the ceiling - fluff

Internal dimensions of the chimney at brickwork“submit” to the physical dimensions of the brick itself. The following chimney sizes are used depending on the characteristics of the stove and its purpose:

1. 12.5 x 12.5 cm - option for kitchen stoves;
2. 12.5 x 25.0 cm - traditional masonry pattern for Russian stoves;
3. 5.0 x 25.0 cm - for fireplaces.

When designing a brick chimney, it is useful to work out the design by the number of bricks in the masonry for each structural element.

A brick chimney usually contains internal channels and additional chambers

Features of a chimney for a bath

The chimney for a bathhouse is subject to special fire safety requirements, since most bathhouses are wooden and vulnerable to fire. Reliable thermal insulation of the chimney from wooden roof. For this, environmentally friendly heat insulators are used, for example, basalt wool. It is very important to install a reliable spark arrester and ensure that the pipe can be regularly cleaned of soot.

The main parameters for assessing the efficiency of a heating system are draft and fuel consumption. With excessive draft, fuel is used irrationally and heat “goes down the drain.” With weak draft, the amount of heat sharply decreases due to lack of oxygen and there is a danger of carbon monoxide emissions.

The draft can be assessed by measuring the temperature of the smoke at the outlet of the chimney. During the combustion period, the temperature should be within 120 o C. The speed of gas movement is 2 m/sec, fuel consumption is up to 10 kg/hour.

How to seal a chimney at the junction with the roof

Exiting the chimney through the roof is an important part of the work when arranging a heating system. There are many reasons. First of all - fire protection. Reliable construction that complies with building codes is a mandatory and paramount condition.

Video: passing a sandwich pipe through the roof

There are many standard solutions for such arrangement at different prices for different chimney and roofing materials. The general requirements are:

• ensure complete tightness of the joint. Any penetration of moisture will cause damage roofing material, rafter system, floors;
• provide thermal insulation in compliance with building codes and regulations;
• maintain the stability of the chimney.

Sealing the joint between a chimney and a corrugated roof

A special feature of the joint between a chimney and a roof made of corrugated sheets is the need for fastening using special rivets with a gasket made of silicone sealant. These materials provide reliable sealing of the transition elements.

The joint with the corrugated sheet coating is made of metal plates with a special anti-snow “pocket”

To seal chimneys of various profiles, manufacturers offer a large set additional elements: aprons, adapters, wall profiles, flexible elements for a specific roof profile.

Finishing the slate roofing area

When sealing a chimney on a slate roof, the fragility of the roof covering must be taken into account. Therefore, it is better to use soft elements for sealing. Detailed instructions The manufacturer of the material will allow you to perform this work with the highest quality.

Reliable sealing of a rectangular chimney with slate roofing a soft silicone element on the sealant eliminates any leaks

Connection device with metal roofing

When sealing the joint between a chimney and a metal tile roof, attention should be paid to the stability of this structure. Horizontal loads on the pipe from the wind inevitably cause vibration, so a rigid connection may turn out to be irrational.

To seal chimneys, there are standard components that provide the necessary strength and stability of the structure.

Attention should also be paid to the rafter system at the junction. It may need to be strengthened and additional sheathing installed.

Video: thermal insulation of the joint between the chimney and the roof

How to make a spark arrester, cap (umbrella)

Equipping the chimney with a spark arrester is mandatory for fire safety. This device is especially relevant for furnaces operating on high-temperature fuel, as well as in wooden premises and baths. With strong draft and wind, a burning spark can fly up to a hundred meters or more, so neighboring buildings are at risk.

The spark arrester is a mesh with a deflector. The principle of operation of the device is as follows: unburned fuel, rising in a stream of smoke under pressure, falls on high speed into the deflector, causing them to be destroyed and extinguished, then safer particles break through the mesh along with the smoke. Mesh cells measuring no more than 5 mm do not allow large particles of unburned fuel to pass through, thus making the smoke safe.

A spark arrestor for a square brick chimney protects the house and neighboring buildings from hot parts of unburned fuel.

It should be remembered that the effectiveness of the spark arrester and its safety must be ensured by constant monitoring of its condition. Regular cleaning mesh with a wire brush, as well as cleaning the chimney from soot, are mandatory operations. This will eliminate the possibility of the mesh clogging and the risk of carbon monoxide poisoning.

To make a spark arrester on our own You can use ready-made drawings. Depending on the diameter of the chimney pipe d, used different sizes, for example: with a mounting diameter d=200 mm, the deflector diameter is D=400 mm, the total height of the product without the deflector is b=200 mm, the seat a=50 mm. Based on these recommendations, you can make a high-quality product from available materials. It should be remembered that the initial dimensions of the material and the thickness of its walls for the spark arrestor must be close to the dimensions of the chimney.

To make a spark arrestor, you can choose ready-made diagram depending on the size of the chimney

Instructions for making a spark-proof cap

The material used is galvanized sheet metal with a thickness of 0.8–1.0 mm. It is better to use a ready-made mesh, made of stainless steel, with cell sizes of 3–5 mm, made of wire with a diameter of at least 1.0–1.5 mm.

If plumbing skills are not enough, then we can offer a simplified version of manufacturing a spark arrester.

The metal parts of the spark arrester are connected “in a lock”

Chimney insulation

Insulating the chimney is a preventive measure that significantly extends its service life. Many have noticed that ordinary metal pipes used as a chimney very quickly corrode and become unusable. The reason is the harmful effects of aggressive combustion products mixed with moisture. Moisture is formed from condensation and temperature changes.

Pipe insulation ensures a high temperature along the entire length of the chimney, thereby eliminating condensation.

Metal pipes are most often insulated with basalt wool. This heat-resistant material of organic origin has excellent thermal insulation properties. Up to 90% of the heat is retained over the length of a standard chimney. Good vapor permeability allows you to maintain the required humidity balance. Vibration resistance, environmental friendliness and the ability to resist the effects of aggressive combustion products also make it an excellent material for thermal insulation.

Insulating the chimney with basalt wool protects it from corrosion and destruction

Among other methods of thermal insulation of a chimney, we note perhaps the simplest and most affordable - insulation wooden shields. To do this, a box is made and installed with a gap of 15 to 30 cm to the pipe. This space is filled with mineral wool, slag and even sand.

Waterproofing and sealing at the junction with the roof - the best way to do it

Modern manufacturers offer high-quality products for sealing joints between the chimney and the roof. Products are classified into the following types:

• viscous based sealants;
• roofing seals;
• sealing tapes.

Viscous-based sealants for roofing are available on a silicone polyurethane or bitumen base.

Silicone-based sealant, when dried, forms a dense and stable layer that ensures sealing of the chimney with the roof

Roof seals provide a gasket-like seal. They are available in hard or soft construction. The first ones have a profile for standard roofing options, for example, corrugated sheets. Seals of the second type have a soft structure and therefore are a universal remedy.

An element can be cut from a universal roofing sealant to the required diameter of a round chimney

Hard seals have a longer service life, but they are more difficult to install. Soft option Easy to install, but has limited durability.

Combined sealing methods can also be used, for example, using sealing tapes.

How to clean a chimney

The efficiency of a chimney largely depends on the cleanliness of its internal surface. Over time, soot settles on the walls of the channel and reduces the cross-section of the chimney. Gradually, this noticeably worsens the draft, resulting in a decrease in the efficiency of the stove and an increase in fuel consumption. Used for cleaning various ways, which are divided into mechanical and chemical.

The main source of soot is low-quality fuel. For example, softwood firewood with a high resin content. Various household waste, plastic and similar products that cannot be burned in a stove also contribute to the deposition of soot. The regularity of cleaning directly depends on this. As a rule, the chimney requires cleaning annually with regular use, sometimes this needs to be done more often. A clear sign of clogging is deterioration in traction, black and acrid smoke due to unburned fuel. When performing cleaning, you must strictly adhere to safety regulations for work performed at height. If you do not have sufficient experience, it is strongly recommended to contact specialists.

Video: how to clean a chimney mechanically

Most often, the chimney is cleaned with a special brush with metal bristles - a brush. Sometimes using a brush does not bring the desired result, so you have to use a scraper. This method allows you to clean chimneys with a thoroughly hardened layer of soot.

Chemical method cleaning is based on the fact that special additives are burned along with the fuel. During combustion, they release substances that react with soot, causing it to burn out or decompose into oxides. The chemical method is also used to prevent the formation of soot.

The efficiency of the stove is significantly reduced if it is heavily clogged, so the chimney must be cleaned promptly

Among other methods, there is the so-called folk method: burning. To do this, a large amount of alder or aspen firewood is placed in the stove, which creates a high temperature at which soot is burned out. The end of the burning process will be indicated by the absence of black smoke.

Installing a chimney is a responsible and complex process. Professional builders can carry it out with good results. At the same time, the customer receives complete information and recommendations on the use and maintenance of the heating system, this will guarantee reliable operation. If you choose the installation option yourself, then you should make full use of all sources of information: instructions for the oven, operating rules and other requirements. An important issue to evaluate is the balance of price and quality. Monetary costs and final quality must meet expectations.

The chimney is an important part heating devices operating on gas, solid or liquid fuel. In fireplaces, stoves, baths and boilers, it is important to maintain a certain level of draft in order to clean the air from combustion products. The correct choice of chimney pipe is the basis for the safe operation of the heating device. Errors in chimney construction can lead to life-threatening situations.

Chimney pipes are made of metal, ceramics and brick. Metal pipes are currently in greatest demand. Of all the varieties of this material, it is recommended to choose steel. Steel pipes for chimneys are coated with special solutions that make the material resistant to all adverse effects of the internal environment of the chimney.

When choosing a pipe, it is necessary to take into account the parameters of the heating devices and the fuel used. The material from which the pipes are made must withstand higher temperatures than the fuel can create.

When using some types of heating devices, chemically active substances are found among the under-oxidized combustion products. They can damage a chimney that is not sufficiently resistant to chemicals. Some unburned particles can ignite, creating sparks. Therefore, the material from which the pipe is made must be fireproof.

This is interesting! When choosing a pipe, you need to pay attention to the melting point of the material from which it is made. The melting point of steel exceeds 1000 0C - the highest possible indicator encountered when operating heating appliances powered by coal.

The advantages of steel pipes are:

• Easy to install. Steel pipes do not require the installation of a special foundation; they do not require complex engineering solutions or special installation tools. You can install them yourself without prior preparation. Due to the plasticity of the material, complex technical structures can be created.
• Light weight. They are easy to transport, you can lift and move them yourself without a team of workers, which also simplifies installation.
• High temperature resistance. Steel products are suitable for appliances operating on any fuel. They do not melt at maximum temperature loads.
• Chemical inertness. Steel does not interact with chemical reagents that can form as under-oxidized combustion products. These substances are not able to destroy it.
• Corrosion resistance. This advantage applies to pipes that have a special coating and stainless steel. The material itself quickly corrodes. It is worth considering that in addition to the internal environment, the chimney pipe is affected by external unfavorable factors, for example, precipitation. Preference should be given to coated pipes.
• Smooth inner walls. Combustion products settle on the rough surface, turning into soot, which gradually reduces the clearance. This reduces the draft in the chimney. Steel is completely smooth, the risk of soot settling on their surface is minimal.

The efficiency and safety of a heating device that produces heat by burning a particular fuel largely depends on the parameters and condition of the chimney. Today, many companies have started producing insulated steel models, but not all users are ready to put up with their high cost and relatively short service life. Often, homeowners decide to build a chimney pipe using traditional technology, that is, from brick, with their own hands. To do this, you need to follow some rules and know what materials are best to use.

Strengths and weaknesses of a brick chimney

Brick chimneys can be used in any facility, be it a boiler room or a private house. With the advent of prefabricated steel sandwiches, they have become less popular, but are still widely used. This is explained by the following advantages:

• a brick chimney is cheaper than a “sandwich”;
• lasts longer: approximately 30 years;
• is an important architectural element and ideally combines visually with certain types of roofing, such as tiles.

But this design also has plenty of disadvantages:

1. In terms of complexity and duration, the construction of such a chimney is inferior to the installation of a “sandwich”, and special transport will be required to deliver the materials.
2. A brick chimney has significant weight, so it must be provided with a reliable foundation.
3. It has a rectangular shape in cross-section, although the most suitable is a round cross-section. Whirls form in the corners, preventing the normal flow of gases and thus worsening traction.
4. The inner surface of a brick chimney, even if finished with plaster, remains rough, as a result of which it becomes covered with soot more quickly.

Unlike stainless steel, brick is quickly destroyed by acid condensation. The latter is formed if the temperature flue gases during their movement through the pipe it manages to drop below 90 degrees. Therefore, when connecting a modern, economical boiler with a low-temperature exhaust or a stove operated in smoldering mode (heat generators of the Professor Butakov, Bullerjan, Breneran brands) to a brick chimney, it is necessary to line it, that is, install a stainless steel pipe inside.

Elements of a brick chimney

The design of the chimney is very simple.

The smoke exhaust duct is protected on top by a cone-shaped part - an umbrella or cap (1), which prevents precipitation, dust and small debris from getting inside. The upper element of the pipe - the head (2) - is wider than its main part. Thanks to this, it is possible to reduce the amount of moisture that gets into the lower area - the neck (3) during rain.

Above the roof there is another widening - an otter (5). Thanks to it, atmospheric moisture does not enter the gap between the chimney and the roofing (6). A slope (4) is formed on the otter using cement mortar, along which the water that gets onto the pipe runs off. To prevent fire of rafters (7) and sheathing (8) from contact with a hot surface chimney they are wrapped in thermal insulation material.

The section of the chimney crossing the attic space is called the riser (9). In its lower part, just at the level of the attic floor, there is another widening - fluff (10).

Note! All three widenings - head, otter and fluff - are made only due to thickening of the wall, while the cross-section of the channel always remains constant. The otter with fluff, as well as other chimney elements installed at the intersections of the roof or ceilings, are called trims.

The thick walls of the fluff protect the wooden floor elements (11) from excessive heat, which can cause them to ignite.

The chimney can be made without fluff. Then, in the area where the ceiling passes, a steel box is mounted around the pipe, which is subsequently filled with a bulk heat insulator - expanded clay, sand or vermiculite. The thickness of this layer should be 100–150 mm. But experienced users It is not recommended to use this cutting option: the insulating filler falls through the cracks.

The fluff is additionally lined with an effective non-flammable heat insulator (12). Previously, asbestos was used everywhere in this capacity, but after its carcinogenic properties were discovered, they are trying not to use this material. A harmless, but more expensive alternative is basalt cardboard.

The lowest section of the chimney is also called the neck (14). It has a valve (13), through which the draft can be adjusted.

Depending on the construction method, the chimney may be one of the following types:

1. Mounted. The stove itself serves as the basis for this design. To support the impressive weight of the chimney, its walls must be two bricks thick.
2. Root. Such a chimney stands on a separate foundation and is not part of any heat-generating installation. The smoke exhaust pipe of the stove or boiler is connected to it through a horizontal tunnel - a reversible sleeve.
3. Wall. Chimneys of this type are channels in load-bearing walls. In order to save heat, internal walls are usually used, on both sides of which there are heated rooms.

In vertical brick chimney draft is formed naturally, that is, due to convection. A prerequisite for the formation of an upward flow is the temperature difference between the ambient air and the exhaust gases: the greater it is, the stronger the draft generated in the pipe. Therefore, for the normal functioning of the chimney, it is very important to take care of its insulation.

Calculation of basic parameters

At the design stage it is necessary to determine the height of the chimney and dimensions cross section smoke exhaust channel. The task of the calculation is to ensure optimal traction force. It must be sufficient to ensure that the required amount of air enters the firebox and all combustion products are removed in full, and at the same time not too large so that hot gases have time to give up their heat.

Height

The height of the chimney must be selected taking into account the following requirements:

1. The minimum height difference between the grate and the top of the head is 5 m.
2. If the roof is covered with flammable material, for example, bitumen shingles, the chimney head should rise above it by at least 1.5 m.
3. For roofs with non-combustible coating minimum distance to the top is 0.5 m.

The ridge of a pitched roof or a flat parapet in windy weather should not create support above the chimney. To do this you need to adhere to the following rules:

• if the pipe is located closer than 1.5 m in relation to the ridge or parapet, then it should rise above this element by at least 0.5 m;
• when removed from the ridge or parapet at a distance of 1.5 to 3 m, the head of the pipe can be at the same height as this element;
• at a distance of more than 3 m, the top of the head can be placed below the ridge, at the height of an inclined line drawn through it with an angle of 10 degrees relative to the horizontal.

If there is a higher building near the house, then the chimney should be erected 0.5 m above its roof.

Section dimensions

If a stove or boiler is connected to the chimney, then the cross-sectional dimensions should be determined depending on the power of the heat generator:

• up to 3.5 kW: the channel is made the size of half a brick - 140x140 mm;
• from 3.5 to 5.2 kW: 140x200 mm;
• from 5.2 to 7 kW: 200x270 mm;
• over 7 kW: in two bricks - 270x270 mm.

The power of factory-made heat generators is indicated in the passport. If the stove or boiler is homemade, you have to determine this parameter yourself. The calculation is carried out according to the formula:

W = Vt * 0.63 * * 0.8 * E / t,

• W - heat generator power, kW;
• Vt - volume of the firebox, m 3;
• 0.63 - average furnace load factor;
• 0.8 - average coefficient showing what part of the fuel burns completely;
• E - calorific value of fuel, kW*h/m3;
• T is the burning time of one fuel load, hours.

Typically, T = 1 hour is taken - approximately this is the time it takes for a portion of fuel to burn during normal combustion.

The calorific value E depends on the type of wood and its moisture content. The average values ​​are:

• for poplar: at a humidity of 12% E - 1856 kWh/cubic meter. m, at a humidity of 25 and 50% - 1448 and 636 kW*h/m3, respectively;
• for spruce: at humidity 12, 25 and 50%, respectively, 2088, 1629 and 715 kW*h/m3;
• for pine: respectively, 2413, 1882 and 826 kW*h/m3;
• for birch: respectively, 3016, 2352 and 1033 kW*h/m3;
• for oak: respectively, 3758, 2932 and 1287 kW*h/m3.

For fireplaces, the calculation is slightly different. Here the cross-sectional area of ​​the chimney depends on the size of the firebox window: F = k * A.

• F - cross-sectional area of ​​the smoke exhaust channel, cm 2;
• K - proportionality coefficient, depending on the height of the chimney and the shape of its cross-section;
• A is the area of ​​the firebox window, cm 2.

The coefficient K is equal to the following values:

• with a chimney height of 5 m: for a round section - 0.112, for a square section - 0.124, for a rectangular section - 0.132;
• 6 m: 0.105, 0.116, 0.123;
• 7 m: 0.1, 0.11, 0.117;
• 8 m: 0.095, 0.105, 0.112;
• 9 m: 0.091, 0.101, 0.106;
• 10 m: 0.087, 0.097, 0.102;
• 11 m: 0.089, 0.094, 0.098.

For intermediate height values, the K coefficient can be determined using a special graph.

They tend to make the actual dimensions of the smoke exhaust duct close to the calculated ones. But they are selected taking into account the standard sizes of bricks, blocks or cylindrical parts.

Materials and tools

A brick chimney is operated under conditions of significant temperature changes, so it should be built from the highest quality bricks. Compliance with this rule will determine how safe the structure will be: if the brick does not crack, it means that poisonous gases and sparks that can cause a fire will not enter the room.

Types of bricks

The pipe is erected from solid ceramic bricks with fire-resistant properties of grades from M150 to M200. Depending on the quality, this material is divided into three grades.

First grade

When making such bricks, the temperature and holding time during firing ideally correspond to the type of clay. You can recognize it by the following signs:

• the blocks are bright red, with a possible yellowish tint;
• the body of the brick has no pores or inclusions visible to the eye;
• all edges are even and smooth, there are no crumbled areas on the edges;
• Tapping with a light hammer or other metal object produces a loud and clear sound.

Second grade

Such a brick is unburned. Here are the signs that characterize it:

• the blocks have a pale orange, slightly saturated color;
• numerous pores are visible on the surface;
• the sound when tapped is dull and short;
• There may be defects on the edges and edges in the form of burrs and crumbled areas.

Brick of the 2nd grade is characterized by low heat capacity, frost resistance and density.

Third grade

• the blocks have a deep dark red color, some are almost brown;
• when tapped, the sound is too loud;
• edges and edges contain defects in the form of chips and burrs;
• the structure is porous.

Such bricks do not have frost resistance, do not retain heat and are too fragile.

The chimney should be built from first grade brick. Second-grade should not be used at all, but third-grade can be used to make foundations for free-standing pipes.

What solution is needed

The quality requirements for mortar are as high as for brick. Under any temperature, weather and mechanical influences, it must ensure the tightness of the masonry throughout its entire service life. Since individual sections of the chimney operate in different conditions, then different solutions are used when laying it.

If the pipe being erected is a root pipe, then its first two rows (zone No. 3), located under the floor, should be laid on a cement-sand mortar (3-4 parts of sand for 1 part of cement). To make the mixture more plastic, you can add 0.5 parts of lime to it.

The higher-lying sections of the chimney, up to and including the fluff, have an internal temperature of 355 to 400 degrees, so when constructing them, a clay-sand mortar is used. If the fluff ends under the ceiling (zone No. 8), and the cutting is made of bulk material (zone No. 9), then the use of this mixture also extends to the rows in the cutting.

The riser, otter and neck of the chimney (zone No. 10), which do not get very hot, but are subject to wind loads, should be laid using lime mortar. The same composition can be used when constructing the head (zone No. 11), but a regular cement-sand mixture is also suitable for this area.

The clay for the solution should be medium fat. It should not have a strong odor, as this is a sign of the presence of organic impurities that cause cracks in the solution.

The absence of organic matter is also desirable for sand. This requirement is satisfied by mountain sand, as well as its cheaper replacement from ground brick scrap. The latter can be ceramic or fireclay. Since the chimney is built specifically from ceramic bricks, the same sand should be used.

In addition to the specified materials, you will need special purchased elements - a cleaning door, a valve and a cap. The gaps between the brickwork and the metal products mounted in it are sealed using asbestos cord or basalt cardboard.

Tools

The most common tools will be used:

• Master OK;
• hammer-pick;
• plumb line

You can’t do without a building level.

Preparatory work

If a main chimney is being built, then construction works should start with the device reinforced concrete foundation. Its minimum height is 30 cm, and the sole must be located below the freezing depth of the soil. The chimney foundation should not have a rigid connection with the foundation of the building, since both objects shrink differently.

Some craftsmen soak the brick before starting work. This makes sense, since when dry, the blocks will actively absorb water from the mortar and the masonry will be fragile. But you need to take into account that masonry made from brick that has been soaked takes quite a long time to dry, so choose a technique in accordance with the time of year and weather conditions - the brick should dry before the first frost.

The sand must be thoroughly cleaned of impurities by sifting through a sieve with a mesh size of 1x1 mm, and then washed. It is better to rub the clay through a sieve after soaking. The lime used must be slaked.

Solutions are prepared according to the following recipe:

1. Clay-sand: mix sand, fireclay and ordinary clay in a ratio of 4:1:1.
2. Limestone: sand, lime and M400 cement are combined in a ratio of 2.5: 1: 0.5.
3. Cement-sand: mix sand and cement grade M400 in a ratio of 3:1 or 4:1.

The clay is soaked for 12–14 hours, stirring from time to time and adding water if necessary. Then sand is added to it. The given recipe is designed for medium-fat clay, but it is advisable to check this parameter in advance in the following way:

1. They take 5 small portions clays of the same mass.
2. Sand is added to 4 portions in amounts of 10, 25, 75 and 100% of the clay volume, and one is left in its pure form. For obviously oily clay, the amount of sand in portions is 50, 100, 150 and 200%. Each of the test samples should be mixed until homogeneous, and then, by gradually adding water, turn into a solution with the consistency of a thick dough. A properly prepared mixture should not stick to your hands.
3. From each portion, make several balls with a diameter of 4–5 cm and the same number of plates with a thickness of 2 to 3 cm.
4. Next, they are dried for 10–12 days in a room with constant room temperature and without drafts.

The result is determined by considering the solution that satisfies two requirements as suitable for use:

• products made from it do not crack after drying (this happens with high fat content);
• Balls dropped from a height of 1 m do not crumble (this would indicate insufficient fat content).

The tested solution is prepared in sufficient volume (2-3 buckets are required for 100 bricks), and enough water is added so that the mixture slides off the trowel easily.

How to lay out a chimney with your own hands: step-by-step instructions

If the materials and tools are prepared, construction work can begin:

1. Approximately two rows to the ceiling they begin to lay out the fluff. If there are several channels in the chimney, then the bricks separating them should be partially recessed into one of the outer walls.
2. Lay out the first two rows especially carefully. They set the tone for the entire structure, so they must be perfectly even and strictly horizontal. If a mounted pipe is installed, then from the first rows it is built on a clay-sand mortar, which is applied in a layer 8–9 mm thick, and when the block is installed in place, it is compressed to a thickness of 6–7 mm.
3. Following the order, the neck of the chimney is erected. The seams must be tied so that the masonry does not crack into separate layers.
4. From the inside, the seams are rubbed with mortar (so that the inner surface of the chimney is as smooth as possible).
5. The duration of the fluffing is determined taking into account the expected settlement of the structures:

With each row, the wall thickness in the fluff increases by 30–35 mm. To do this, brick plates of different thicknesses are cut. So, for example, in the 1st row of fluff, in addition to whole blocks, the number of which has increased from 5 to 6, longitudinal and transverse halves (2 pieces each) and several quarters are used. Cut bricks must be laid so that the rough cut faces into the masonry and not into the smoke exhaust duct. The row of fluff, which will be flush with the ceiling, must be isolated from wooden elements with strips of asbestos or basalt cardboard. Next, they return to the original dimensions of the chimney - this will be the first row of the riser. At this stage, using a plumb line, you need to determine the projection of the chimney onto the roof and make a hole in it for it. In waterproofing and vapor barrier films

They make not a hole, but a cross-shaped incision. After this, the resulting petals are bent in such a way that the functionality of this element is not impaired. The riser is laid out row by row, trying to make it absolutely vertical (controlled by a plumb line).

Formation of an otter The riser ends in a row that extends half its height above the bottom edge of the hole in the roof. Those that are on the level wooden rafters

and sheathings must be insulated with asbestos or basalt strips. The otter starts next. Like fluff, it gradually expands, but unevenly, and taking into account different heights edges of the hole in the roof. Next, the dimensions of the chimney return to original values

- the neck of the furnace begins. The last stage is the construction of a two-row head. The first row is made with a widening of 30–40 mm in all directions. The second row follows the usual pattern, while on the ledge of the bottom row it is laid out using concrete mortar

inclined surface.

An umbrella is attached to the ledge of the head. The clearance between its bottom and the top of the head should be 150–200 mm.

If the roofing material is flammable and a solid fuel heat generator is connected to the chimney, a spark arrester (metal mesh) must be installed on the head.

The gap between the pipe and the roof must be sealed.

The “steps” of the otter are smoothed with mortar so that an inclined surface is formed, after which the entire outer part of the chimney must be treated with a waterproofing compound.

Insulation of a brick chimney Most insulation of a chimney - coating its surface with a solution based on lime and slag. First, a reinforcing mesh is attached to the chimney, then the solution is applied layer by layer, making the mixture thicker each time. The number of layers is from 3 to 5. As a result, the coating has a thickness of 40 mm.

After the plaster dries, cracks may appear on it that need to be covered. Next, the chimney is whitewashed with a solution of chalk or lime.

More expensive, but more effective option insulation is associated with the use basalt wool density 30–50 kg/m3.

Since the walls of the chimney are flat, it is best to use this insulation in the form of hard slabs rather than soft panels (mats). To install basalt wool on the chimney, you need to secure the metal profile frame with dowels.

The insulation is placed in the frame, after which it can be fixed with a stretched nylon cord or screwed to the brickwork with special disc-shaped dowels with a large diameter head (to prevent pushing through the material).

A vapor-proof film is laid on top of the basalt wool (this heat insulator absorbs water well), and then plastered with ordinary cement-sand mortar over a reinforcing mesh or sheathed with tin (can be galvanized).

Installing the sleeve

1. Lining of the chimney is carried out in the following sequence:
2. In the boiler or furnace connection area, the chimney masonry is dismantled to a height sufficient to install the longest part of the steel liner. This is usually a condensate trap.
3. All elements of the liner (sleeve) are installed sequentially, starting from the top one. As installation progresses, the installed parts move upward, freeing up space for subsequent ones. Each element has hooks on which you can hook a rope passed through the top hole.

After installing the liner, the space between it and the walls of the chimney is filled with non-flammable heat insulator.

At the end, the opening in the chimney is bricked again.

Chimney cleaning

1. A layer of soot settling inside the chimney not only reduces its cross-section, but also increases the likelihood of a fire, since it can ignite. Sometimes it is even specially burned, but this method of cleaning is very dangerous. It is more correct to remove soot using a combination of two methods:
2. Mechanical involves the use of brushes and scrapers on long, extendable holders, as well as weights on a strong cord, which are passed into the chimney from above. Chemical: burned in the furnace along with conventional fuel, for example, “Log Chimney Sweep” (sold in hardware stores). It contains many substances - coal wax, ammonium sulfate, zinc chloride, etc. The gas released when this product burns forms a coating on the walls of the chimney that does not allow soot to subsequently stick to them.

The second method is used as a preventive measure.

Video: laying a brick pipe

At first glance, the chimney appears to be an extremely simple design. However, at every stage of its construction - from the selection of materials to the installation of thermal insulation - a balanced and deliberate approach is required. By following the recommendations of experts, you can build a durable and safe structure that will last for many years.

IN Having taken up → (the link tells how to make a stove in the country), the owner inevitably faces the question of how to make a chimney with your own hands. A chimney is needed both to remove combustion products and to create a so-called draft in the stove, an air flow created by a pressure difference that ensures fuel combustion and removal of combustion products.

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What happens in the oven?

The combustion process from a chemical point of view is a process of oxidation, in other words, the combination of substances and oxygen with the release of heat.

The result of the reaction, in addition to heat, will be the appearance of new compounds, as well as the transition of some fuel substances into gaseous form. At the same time, in accordance with the law of conservation: how many substances by weight enter into the reaction, the same amount should be “output”.

If the fuel is solid (coal, firewood, peat, etc.), the lion's share of the remaining weight will be the ash remaining in the furnace. In addition, we will get steamy water, carbon dioxide etc.

By burning gas or liquid fuel, the output will be carbon dioxide, water vapor and a set of other gaseous compounds. There will be practically no solid residue.

A little physics

Without knowing why and how smoke moves, making a chimney for a stove with your own hands is problematic; at a minimum, it may not be effective enough.

The mechanics here are quite simple: warm air has a lower density than cold air, and therefore less weight, therefore, according to the laws of physics, it “floats”, being pushed out by the heavier one.

During this process, it gradually cools down, mixes with the surrounding air and, finally reaching the same temperature, stops.

If we let warm air through a channel limited by walls that prevents it from mixing with the surrounding air, it will cool much more slowly, especially if the chimney for the stove is made of a material that does not conduct heat well or is additionally insulated.

The longer the chimney, the greater the volume warm air in it, the more significant the power it creates. Accordingly, the pressure air flow– traction – more.

Interference and obstacles

The process of smoke exiting the firebox can be prevented by the appearance of an area of ​​high pressure, which, like a plug, will “plug” the chimney.

Cooled air in the chimney can become such an obstacle. That is why increasing the height of the chimney makes sense only up to a certain limit, beyond which each centimeter of height will not increase the draft, but decrease it.

The chimney is a very important part of the bathhouse design. Gone are the days when the stove was heated black, with special art that allowed smoke to smoke only the walls. But with modern sauna stoves It is absolutely impossible to do without a chimney: after all, it is it that removes the products of the combustion process of wood fuel thanks to the draft of natural origin.

It's simple: clean air enters the firebox, and gases escape out. But in the process, when you build a chimney with your own hands or install a purchased one, you will encounter considerable difficulties. And we will help you sort everything out!

It is absolutely natural that so many bathhouse owners are looking for how to make a chimney correctly and want to figure it out themselves - after all, such installation in the country costs almost a thousand dollars. Therefore, if you decide to take on everything yourself, go for it, just read this article carefully first.

What does a standard chimney consist of?

There are many classifications of chimneys: internal and external, single-circuit and double-circuit, and... But most importantly, regardless of what kind of chimney you want to assemble and install in your steam room, there are certain rules and you need to know them.

So, some bathhouse owners who are far from construction are confident that the chimney structure is quite simple and consists of just a few pipes connected to each other in a special way. And all kinds of “extra” devices and elements really seem superfluous to them. In fact, there is nothing unnecessary in the chimney - take away a couple of elements, and problems will not keep you waiting. Therefore, we will begin studying the question of how to properly make a chimney by getting acquainted with its main elements and their purpose.

The ideal chimney is a strictly horizontal design. But in practice, everything often turns out to be much more complicated - the pipe goes straight, then horizontally through the wall, then straight again... And also through the ceiling and roof. This is why there are a variety of elbows, tees and pipes.

So what is knee? The chimney cannot always pass through the ceiling of the second floor strictly vertically - a beam, for example, may interfere with it. And you need to get around it - and for this, knees with a variety of angles are used. If there is a horizontal section of pipe coming from the stove, then it should be mounted on elbows or a tee. If you are using your knee, think about how you will clean it later, but you will have to clean it.

A more versatile knee option - tee, unlike the first option, it also provides a cleaning element. This is a special removable glass at the bottom or its equivalent. The only rule is that the tee and pipes must fit each other perfectly and be absolutely hermetically connected so that smoke cannot penetrate into the interior of the bathhouse through cracks invisible to the eye.

Next, in order for the chimney to pass safely through wood covering on the second floor of the bathhouse, an element such as feedthrough . It all looks like this: we cut a hole in the ceiling, install a pipe, insulate it well and remove the pipe. The same is the case with the roof - a pipe is also used for it, only at an angle.

Used in chimney installation and brackets- these are special devices that hold the pipes and they do not fall. Properly secure the chimney pipe with wall brackets every two meters.

And finally roof cutting - an element that allows you to hermetically pass the pipe through the roof of the bathhouse. So that neither rain nor melted snow gets into the attic or second floor. The roof trim should not be replaced with questionable materials, and especially with sealant, if the bathhouse is still shrinking - all this will collapse over time, fall off, and sometimes, unfortunately, even catch fire.

Important! When purchasing a chimney and its accessories, be sure to check the certificate, and this is not the same as a simple list of what exactly the products consist of. Be careful!

We install a chimney in a bathhouse ourselves

Why is it so important that your chimney works properly? Firstly, combustion products can not only damage the furniture and decoration of the steam room, but also seriously affect your health.

So, any chimney installation is always carried out according to one of these principles:

• For smoke - when a tee is installed in the system to remove condensate
• For condensate - when such a tee is not used.

That is, from the stove the chimney goes “through condensate”, and after the tee - “through smoke”.

Stage I. Chimney design

First of all, choose correct project for your chimney, it is better to work with a specialist. And the starting point should be the stove that you install in the bathhouse - each of them has its own requirements, and each works according to its own principle.

Now carefully examine the ceiling, mark where the beams are. This way you will know whether you will have a straight chimney or one with bends and transitions. But remember that horizontal parts always slightly reduce traction and also accumulate soot well.

Stage II. Assembling the chimney

If you cannot assemble the pipe directly at height, assemble it on the ground. The weight, of course, will still be the same, and therefore in this case you cannot do without a hinge, which can be welded using a pin and iron. And it is convenient to raise the pipe to a height with the help of a fork and guy wires.

All joints of pipes, tees and elbows must be well secured with clamps. We fasten the tees themselves using a support bracket.

Stage III. Passage through the roof

As we have already said, the chimney is removed through a special cut, which must be selected in accordance with the angle of the roof - 15-35° or 35-55°.

Next, we determine exactly where the pipe will pass, mark the size and cut out the opening with inside. After that - in the roof, and we bring out the pipe. We protect the passage of the chimney from the inside with the help of a roof sheet, and install it on the outside roof cutting. We adjust the angle of inclination with the conical part of the cutting, and place the edges of its sheet under the ridge of the roof or under the edge of the roof - as you wish.

We install insulation along the walls of the pipe - it can be foil mats made of basalt, for example. Moreover, it is the internal cavity of the pipe that needs to be insulated.

Stage IV. Completion of chimney installation

Now we attach an adjustable apron to the pipe to seal the joint and increase the chimney to required length, covering it with a metal umbrella to protect it from precipitation.

And here is the last one. Those parts of the chimney that may be susceptible to corrosion must be coated with heat-resistant paint, and the joints of the clamps must be sealed.

Fire safety comes first!

Now let's look at the main rules that you must remember when building a chimney yourself:

• Rule #1.
• No joints with other pipes!
• Rule #2.
• The chimney should not have a horizontal section longer than one meter.
• Rule #3.

The chimney must not come into contact with any other communication, especially a gas pipeline or electrical wiring.

Rule #4.

The sauna chimney needs to be cleaned at least twice during the heating season.