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If for large animals it is enough to build a regular barn, then for breeding rabbits you need to take care of special conditions. The best solution In terms of price-quality ratio, it will be possible to make an animal house with your own hands. It's cheap and also allows you to take everything into account peculiarities breeding and location. In this article we will look at what material needs to be used for this purpose, what is worth taking into account, and we will analyze the drawings.

Selection of necessary materials

The material is selected based on the type of cell. Any structure has a frame, floor, walls, door and ceiling. For building rabbit hutches houses Metal mesh and wood are most often used. The cell of this mesh should have a diameter of no more than 2 by 2 cm and no less than 16 by 47 mm (this depends on the age and weight of the animal).

The materials for building the cage are:

• plywood sheets;
• bars;
• slate;
• nails and screws;
• slats;
• mesh with cells;
• for door bolts and curtains;
• drinking bowls and feeders.

The wood is sanded and sanded, and the ends of the mesh are securely fastened. Sharp edges must be removed to prevent injury to animals, and protruding wooden parts are covered with tin. Rabbits love it very much gnaw wood - this is how they grind their teeth. To do this, you need to put twigs in their feeder. The roof and walls are made of plywood and mesh, and the main frame will be wooden blocks. Their size will depend on the location of the structure: if the cage will be placed on the street, then the legs of the frame should be from 80 cm, and when installed indoors - 35-40 cm.

If the structure will stand in an open space, then roofing materials are required. Don't do it metal roof(for example, from a metal profile), because it will heat up in hot weather, which can lead to heat stroke in animals.

Standard design parameters

First of all, you need to decide on the size of the rabbit cage according to the drawings. Design drawings can be found on the Internet or made yourself. 2-seater designs with 2 separate sections are common. There are also other types: single-section, 3-section, group for young rabbits, for the mother house, author's designs from various farmers.

Standard dimensions of the structure: height - from 40 to 50 cm, length - from 120 to 140 cm and width - from 70 to 80 cm.

For young individuals, a length of about 90 cm is enough, and other parameters are similar to the previous design. For one adult rabbit, 0.7 square meters is allocated. m of area, and for young individuals - 0.2 sq. m.

Types of do-it-yourself houses

The types of cages for rabbits are quite varied:

• for adults;
• for young animals;
• for a rabbit with babies;
• for giants;
• solid wire;
• from farmer Zolotukhin;
• from farmer Tsvetkov;
• Rabbitax.

Rabbits with offspring are kept together, and separate housing is built for older individuals.

For adults

For medium-sized adults, housing can be built about 70 cm wide, 50 to 70 cm high and 140 cm long using a block structure. Each block is divided by a grid into 2 sections. The partition is removed during the mating period, which allows 2 sections to be combined into 1.

It’s not that difficult to build a standard 2-story house for adult rabbits. The main thing is to draw up the drawings correctly. You can build a two-tier or three-tier cage. It will be more difficult, but it will allow save space in the territory.

Each cell must have separate place for sleeping, walking and eating the animal. The cage is divided by a plywood partition. The sleeping compartment must have a continuous wooden door, and the place for walking and eating is mesh. The resting place should be small. Ideal sizes It is considered 30 by 60 by 50 cm.

Separate for young animals

Rabbits that have been weaned from their mother are kept in groups. The cell is made according to minimum sizes: the total area of ​​the structure is 300 by 100 cm, the ceiling height is 50-60 cm. It is better to make the floor from thin wooden slats, and also cover them with a metal mesh (thickness 1.5 mm, cell diameter 15 by 40 mm). You can make the entire floor mesh, but additionally arrange warm separate room, which in winter period insulated with straw and hay.

There are farmers who do not make a separate house for the young animals, but simply house them in cages intended for adults. But at the same time, you need to calculate how many animals can be placed in one cage in order to provide them comfortable accommodation.

For a female rabbit with offspring

IN open space, fenced only with a net, the female will be worried and nervous. And this will have a bad effect on the health of the offspring. In a house for a female rabbit with her offspring prerequisite is the presence of a closed and warm place for the nest, space for walking with a front mesh wall.

Let's consider the simplest and most functional version of a house for a female rabbit with offspring.

The frame is made from the bars. The back wall and two side walls are made of plywood. The cage is divided into 2 sections: for walking (large) and for nesting (small). Separate doors are made for each section (from mesh and solid wood). The walls, ceiling and floor should be made according to the sandwich principle (double). Straw or foam is laid between them. The roof is covered with slate.

For giant individuals

Designs for these individuals must be much larger than usual. Adult rabbits can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach 7.5 kg.

Minimum house sizes for one individual:

• height from 55 cm;
• width - 75 cm;
• length - 0.9−1.5 m.

If possible, it is better to increase housing parameters.

They build for young individuals group cage, the height of which is 40−50 cm, and the area is about 1.2 square meters. m. They reinforce the floor quite well (they are made of thicker galvanized mesh), since the weight of the animal is rather large. To prevent the floor of the house from sagging, they make sheathing from timber at a distance of three to four centimeters from each other.

Some rabbit breeders put a solid wooden floor in their cages, and plastic trays are installed underneath it. It is necessary to clean such a cage at least twice a day.

All-wire housing

This cell is the most in a budget way making housing for rabbits. It can be installed outdoors and indoors. Such cages are durable and lightweight, take up little space, and are easy to clean and maintain. To make such housing, you will need 2 types of mesh: a large one for the ceiling and walls (2.5 by 5 cm in diameter), and a smaller one for the floor (1.5 by 5 cm in diameter). The frame of the house is made of timber (legs length 50-70 cm). IN winter time The cage is placed in a warm barn, and in the summer - on the street.

From farmer Zolotukhin

Rabbit breeder Zolotukhin has developed a simple, original and inexpensive design for rabbits. In such houses there is no need to clean every day; animals feel comfortable in them and are less susceptible to disease.

Zolotukhin's cell is a 3-story building, with a sloping plywood or slate floor. The mesh on the floor is laid only a short distance from the back wall and without a tray. The next tier is shifted compared to the first by the width of the grid. The third one is located in the same way. The front wall is common to all floors forming a slope. The compartments are equipped with tilting feeders.

For construction you will need: metal mesh, wood, tin, straight sheet slate or plywood, polycarbonate. A wooden frame, doors and partitions are made in advance. The mesh is used to make the cage door and the back of the floor, which is made of plywood or slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. The protruding parts inside the cage are covered with tin.

• height is 150 cm;
• depth 70−80 cm;
• width 200 cm;
• the slope of the floor is 6−8 cm;
• door 40 by 40 cm;
• the mesh size in front of the back wall is from 15 to 20 cm.

The floors are divided into 2 sections by a partition, and a place is left between them for a hay barn.

From rabbit breeder Tsvetkov

Farmer Tsvetkov presented the idea of ​​a 2-story mini-farm for rabbits. It consists of 4 separate sections. Features of these cages: 2 gravity feeders, 2 hanging queen cells, unusual ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is made of coniferous timber and painted white. The sennik is made of moisture-resistant plywood, 8 mm thick. The inside is lined with metal mesh, and it also serves as a door in each section.

Wooden parts need to be sheathed sheet metal, cover the cone for collecting manure with slate mastic. Ruberoid or slate is suitable for the roof. The water in the drinking bowls will be heated by a boiler.

Rabbitax Dormitory

Such cells can be of various modifications and designs. The simplest of them are 2-section. There are ecological models that are based on the principle of changing air flows.

There are real farms for Rabbits rabbits, where more than 25 animals live and breed together. Many types of such cells are sold. But you can also build them yourself. The basis is the drawings of the rabbit breeder Mikhailov.

Sometimes a drywall profile is used to build cages. This profile is used to either make a frame or use it as a feeder.

To summarize, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on building a house for rabbits. After all, the construction is not very complicated. Every craftsman can create convenient conditions for living animals.

Attention, TODAY only!

Experienced rabbit breeders should know how rabbit cages are built with your own hands. Only in this case can you be sure that long-eared pets will not be endangered by low-quality materials or improper manufacturing processes. There are no particularly specific conditions for keeping rabbits; you just have to take into account that their wild counterparts live in ordinary burrows. Since there is nothing complicated about how to build a rabbit cage with your own hands, even novice rabbit farmers can do it.

Cell components and materials used

Any cage intended for rabbits must be equipped in a certain way. It must contain the following parts:

• The frame and supports on which the entire structure rests are made of wooden blocks. To ensure that rabbits kept outside are protected from rodents, cats and dogs, it is worth placing their cage at a height of about 70 cm from the ground.
• Walls made from plywood, boards or mesh. For beauty, you can decorate the walls outside plastic or wooden slats. For ease of cage care façade parts make two doors (one from a mesh, the other from a board).
• Floor most often made from slats or mesh. Some rabbit breeders install a solid floor, only placing a mesh in the back to remove waste through it. There are adherents different materials, who learn from their own experience what is best for animals kept in different conditions.
• The roof is most often made of the same material as the walls, and to protect against conditions environment When kept outdoors, you can install additional covering from any roofing material.

When creating cages for rabbits, it is not recommended to use metal. In the heat, the iron becomes hot, which causes discomfort for animals, and in the cold they can easily freeze to such a coating. Even when the most simple cell for rabbits with your own hands, you need to make sure that all parts are smooth and not dangerous for injury. Any defects in the mesh should be eliminated, and the wood should be treated with sandpaper.

Various designs

Before you make a cage for rabbits with your own hands, it is worth finding out what designs exist for keeping them. Several types of structures are now known:

1. An ordinary cage for keeping rabbits is represented by a kind of box on high legs with two doors. Inside, the space is divided into a feeding and nesting compartment, and a manhole is equipped between them. Cages should be equipped with feeders and drinkers of various designs, as well as sufficient space for the animal to be active. If you make the most popular rabbit cage with your own hands, its diagram should look something like this:

Some sizes can be increased slightly, based on the breed of rabbits, but in most cases these are the parameters that are suitable for adults.

Of course, there are some differences when creating cages for young animals, pregnant and lactating females, and adults, but in general they are all built according to the same scheme. To keep two individuals in one cage, it is worth slightly increasing its size.

2. The design of the cell proposed by I.N. is considered very complex. Mikhailov. Mikhailov cages for rabbits are entire mini-farms or, as they are called in scientific sources, reproduction units. Its units are equipped ventilation systems, original feeders, many manholes and shelves, electrically heated uterine compartments and drinking bowls, self-removal systems for manure, etc. The head farm is constantly improving its cages, so followers should regularly visit the authors' farm to keep up with the latest developments in the field of accelerated rabbit breeding.

3. Unlike the previous unit, the design proposed by another author, N.I., has taken root among the people. Zolotukhin. Creating a Zolotukhin cage for rabbits with your own hands is not a very difficult process, and besides, the author does not even think about hiding his ideas. From above, its design looks like this:

The floor is made of plywood or flat slate rather than mesh. Mesh, about 10-15cm wide, is only used on the floor at the back of the cage, as this is where rabbits urinate most often. Zolotukhin’s designs are three-tiered: two cages in three floors, with each upper floor moved back by the distance of the grid in the floor - so the waste products of rabbits do not interfere with the inhabitants of the lower cages. Also distinctive characteristic of these cells is the absence of a stationary queen cell: in winter a burrow house is placed in the cage, and in summer the female rabbit makes a nest right in the hay.

Craftsmen also create other structures with different numbers of tiers and with different equipment, using combinations of the most suitable, in their opinion, components of the cage and building materials.

Stages of creation

It is worth considering in detail the process of creating the simplest single cage for a rabbit (more complex designs are also based on this approach):

1. First you need to choose a place where the rabbitry will be located. It should be protected as much as possible from wind and drafts.
2. The next thing you need to create a rabbit cage with your own hands is drawings. They take into account the purpose of a particular cell, its various contents, and the structure of the entire structure. When determining the size, you should rely on the size of a specific breed, but most often they take the size of 150*70*70 cm.
3. Next, a frame of beams is made according to the dimensions. If in the front part the height of the cage is usually 60-70 cm, then in the rear part the height is taken less (so that the roof is tilted).
4. The frame is sheathed with plywood, boards or other selected material. Inside, the cage is divided by a partition into nesting and feeding compartments, and a hole with a diameter of 20 cm is cut out in the partition. To prevent rabbits from gnawing the partition, it is better to line the hole with tin.
5. After the walls, they begin to make the roof (for ease of maintenance, it is better to make it removable).
6. Cages are hung on the façade doors, and the door to the aft compartment is made of mesh, and the door to the nest compartment is made of boards.
7. When keeping rabbits outside, you can attach an additional structure made of mesh for walking to the back of the cage. If you carefully think through the design of ladders and shelves, you can provide the rabbit with the opportunity to sometimes eat pasture.
shelves, etc.),
8. tall and solid pallet(this is important both for the pet itself, since its paws do not have pads, and for the owner, so that the contents of the cage are not scattered around),
9. absence of sharp elements, slippery surfaces, parts treated with varnish or paint for the safety of the big-eared animal.

Cages are usually purchased for residential use because they are quite beautiful. But beauty does not always mean convenience for a pet, and therefore it makes sense to think about how the cage is made for decorative rabbit with your own hands. You can easily make a cage that looks like purchase option, from a fairly high rectangular basin (to create a pallet) and galvanized mesh with cells no larger than 25*25 mm.

This mesh bends easily and does not break, making it easy to make a parallelepiped without a lower part, and insert the lower ends of the wire into pre-made holes on the side of the basin. There is a door on one of the walls. To prevent the floor from being slippery, you can pour sawdust into the cage or put corrugated cardboard on the bottom. At the end, you need to place a drinking bowl, feeder, ladder and other entertainment for your eared pet in the cage.

Raising rabbits requires patience and knowledge of their physiology. Without this, results will not be achieved. In winter, rabbits feel better in a heated room specially allocated for them, which is called a rabbitry. A small one is suitable for home breeding.

What should a rabbitry be like?

In order for rabbits to feel normal, not get sick, grow well and reproduce quickly, they need to create a certain atmosphere. They are demanding of living conditions and often get sick in poor conditions. To prevent this from happening, they need the following conditions:

• The optimal temperature is 14-16°C. The temperature in the rabbitry is determined in a place remote from heating devices, walls, windows and doors. Both overheating and hypothermia have a negative effect. When the temperature drops, more feed is required, which is unprofitable. But a gradual rise or fall in temperature is not as destructive as sharp changes. From all this it follows that it is necessary to build an insulated rabbitry, with the possibility of heating and air conditioning. The most justified are rabbit hutches built using insulation mineral wool(thickness is calculated depending on the region). No less attention should be paid to the insulation of the floor and ceiling. Roofing material may be without insulation, it should provide protection from moisture. In this case, it is necessary to take care of the insulation of the ceiling. The cheapest way is to pour a layer of expanded clay onto the ceiling, apply a layer of clay mixed with straw on top, and then you can even throw fallen leaves onto the dried clay for additional thermal insulation.

  

• Rabbits are demanding of air humidity - it must be maintained at 60-75%.
• Drafts have a negative effect on the health of rabbits. This is another argument in favor frame buildings- with proper construction there should be no drafts. However, the rabbitry must have ventilation because they need fresh air and the gases that come from the rabbits' urine and feces must be removed. But the air speed should not be more than 0.3 m/s. Usually, an inlet opening is made, covered by a movable grille at floor level in one corner of the rabbitry, and an exhaust pipe under the ceiling in the other. IN exhaust pipe you can install a gate. Using a movable grille and a damper, you can regulate the speed of air movement in the rabbitry depending on weather conditions. If natural ventilation is not enough, fans are installed in the exhaust or supply pipe with the ability to regulate the speed of rotation of the blades (there should be several modes).
• The second factor that affects the state of the atmosphere in a rabbitry is the regularity of cleaning and the design of the cages. About the cells - a little lower, and here - about cleaning. It should be regular - at least 2-3 times a week. The main indicator is the presence or absence of a strong odor.
• In order for less ammonia to be released, it is necessary to organize the collection of stool so that urine is separated from feces. If the collection goes into trays under the cells, they have a slope and a trench along which the urine is drained into separate container. If waste is collected through gutters into a pit (with large numbers of rabbits), the ditches must be made so that urine leaks into a lower gutter separated by a mesh. This is enough difficult task, since one part is separated from the other using a mesh, and it often gets clogged. To keep everything in working order, you have to clean it often.

  

  Construction of a rabbitry is a serious matter

The rate of weight gain and fur density are also affected by the illumination of the rabbitry and the duration daylight hours. Rabbits are most active at dusk and at night. Bright lighting is undesirable for them. A sufficient level of illumination is 50-70 lux for adults, 25-30 lux for fattening young animals. At the same time, the duration of daylight hours is 16-18 hours, so in winter lighting is required, but dim. To make the lighting more comfortable when servicing the rabbitry, install several additional light bulbs above the cages, but connect them to the second switch (or to the second key). Another option is to install a brightness control (dimmer). It is installed instead of a regular switch and allows you to change the illumination by turning the control knob.

Rabbit cages

The easiest way to keep rabbits is in cages under a canopy. outdoors. But this option is available in regions with more or less mild winters. Often this type of keeping is practiced at the beginning of a rabbit breeder’s “career,” but gradually they come to the conclusion that a rabbitry is necessary. It’s just that during the winter the livestock often decreases greatly, feed consumption increases significantly, and the gain is very small. It turns out that it is more profitable to build a rabbitry and heat it.

Dimensions and design of rabbit cages

The size of rabbit cages depends on the breed. How larger rabbits, the more space they require. On average, the height of the cage is 500-700 mm, the roof can be sloped back, then the height at the back is 50-100 mm less. The depth of the cage is 50-70 cm. The width is more difficult - cages of different sizes are made for males and females. In cages for female rabbits, it is advisable to fence off the queen cell - a closed, small volume in which the female rabbit will build a nest. Without taking into account the queen cell, the length of the cage for males and females is the same - 500-800 cm.

There are several options for constructing a queen cell:

• A cube made of boards is placed in spacious cells suitable size, in which a hole is made for passage.
• Immediately, during construction, part of the cell for the queen cell is fenced off.
• There are wide removable doors on the sides of the cage. Before the female rabbit has offspring, the doors are removed and the queen cell is hung (reliable fastening is required).

The optimal dimensions of the queen cell are: depth 80 cm, width 60 cm, height 40 cm (or whatever the size of your cell is). It is advisable to make a shelf inside the cell or above the queen cell. On it the rabbit will hide from the annoying little ones. In this case, she will not accidentally trample them, as happens if there is no shelf.

Queen cell hung to the cage for a female rabbit

A hole is made from the queen cell into the main cell. It should not start level with the floor; there should be a threshold of at least 5 cm. In the first days, it will keep the babies inside the queen cell.

How to make a floor

Regardless of the type of keeping rabbits, the cage must be dry. Therefore, a solid floor is made very rarely; it is better to make a cracked one, with large gaps or from metal mesh with a small cell. If the floor is made solid (from a piece of moisture-resistant plywood or OSB), then it is made inclined towards the back wall (you can also towards the front, but this is less convenient). A grate or mesh is nailed into the back of the floor, through which urine pours out and excrement falls out.

It is better to make the floor in a cage for rabbits double - the first level is made of wooden slats or a metal grid

It is much better to make a double floor - the first is lattice, the second is solid. For a slatted floor take wooden planks 20-25 mm wide, stuff them with a gap of 15 mm. All waste, both liquid and solid, normally falls through such gaps. Instead of slats, you can use a rigid mesh with thick wire and small cells.

Mesh floor made of galvanized wire - also performed well

The lower level of the floor - the pallet - is often made of galvanized iron, preferably from a single piece. In this case, a slope is formed (usually in the center of the cell or between two adjacent ones), and a gutter is formed in the center. The height of the pallet is 25-35 mm. Less is inconvenient, more is not necessary.

To make the metal last longer, it can be treated with drying oil. If it is necessary to splice pieces, make the connection so that everything drips off, and it is advisable to lubricate it bitumen mastic- so that sewage does not flow onto the floor of the rabbitry.

Cages for female rabbits are queen cells on the sides. The lower level of the floor is made of galvanized steel and has a trough for urine drainage and ease of cleaning.

At the same time, the lower tier of the floor must be movable so that it can be pulled out and washed/cleaned. To do this, corners are stuffed onto which a sheet of metal rides, like on a sled.

It is not necessary to make the lower tier of the floor for each cell. It can be common to two or three located nearby. If these are cages for rabbits, you usually end up with a common tray for two cages, with queen cells on each side. If cages of young animals for fattening or males are located in a row, three cages can be combined.

Sometimes they are also used as a lower floor. flat slate. But in this case, the drain can only be organized backwards or forwards and only into the gutter that runs along the cage - the sheet cannot be bent in any way.

Doors

Doors are usually made with mesh. A frame is made from a block onto which a mesh is stretched. Tighten the nails or screws so that their points do not stick out inside the cage. It is better to stuff the mesh so that it is flush on the side of the cage. This way there is less chance of rabbits chewing through the door. Those who are more comfortable with welding weld a frame from a small corner, stretch the eraser onto a steel wire 3-4 mm in diameter, and weld this wire to the door.

In terms of size, a larger door is more convenient - it will be more convenient for you to maintain the cage. Constipations are ordinary hooks or latches; they are also made in the old fashioned way with a piece of a block that spins on a nail driven into its middle. But this type of constipation is very unreliable.

One of the most simple options constipation for rabbit cages

If carpentry is not your thing, to make the door more rigid, you can fill the block diagonally. It will prevent the door from warping (as in the photo above). Please note that the bar is padded on the outside - this will prevent rabbits from chewing on it.

Roof

You can cover rabbit cages with any inexpensive material. But we must remember that overheating and hypothermia are destructive for rabbits. Therefore, simply throwing a piece of metal or any material based on it will not work. It is better to use a material with low thermal conductivity. For example, you can stuff plywood (moisture-resistant, construction), OSB and any other similar material.

If the cages will be placed outside, without a canopy, something will need to be placed on the sheet material to protect them from precipitation. In more northern areas or when installing the cage in the shade, you can lay roofing material or more modern material for waterproofing. It can not be fused, but glued to bitumen mastic.

Another option is to lay slate, preferably wave slate. Moreover, it is better to raise it above the cage by 15-25 cm. This will create air gap, it won't be hot in the cage. And the resulting gap can be used for drying/withering grass. Dried in the shade, it retains more nutrients.

Sennik, drinking bowls, feeders

For rabbits you don’t need much equipment - a hay barn, feeders for bulk small feed, drinking bowls. The design of the drinking bowls should be such that they can be easily removed - they need to be washed and the water changed. For these purposes, some kind of trays are usually adapted, under which a “seat” is made from a strip of metal, fixed to the door (the most convenient option) or on the wall, close to the door.

There is one very good option for a drinking bowl from the “cheap and cheerful” category. A cutting is used as a “cup holder” sewer pipe with a diameter of 100 mm. Trimming height - 80-100 mm. A trimmed 2-liter bottle is inserted inside this ring. plastic bottle. The bottle is cut flush with the “glass holder”, only a strip 2-3 cm wide and 5-7 cm long remains so that the glass can be easily pulled out.

Senniks are made either between two cages, bevelling adjacent walls in the shape of the letter V. This method is more convenient when building cages for rabbits (seen in several photos above). The second option for cages of males and young animals is to make one of the walls (or part of the wall) lattice-like, and attach a piece of plywood, OSB, a board made of planks, etc. to it on hinges. Fix it in the desired position using a hook, rope, or wire.

In principle, if there is not enough space on the side, such a canopy can be made in the front, on the door. It’s just that in addition to the drinking bowl, they often nail/make a feeder on the door.

Feeders are made by anyone using whatever they can. Some people have plastic or metal trays attached, others make them out of wood, they even try to make them out of drywall. An interesting option seemed to be an attached piece of a large-section plasterboard profile (pictured below).

You can make a feeder out of wood, but the edges must be covered with tin.

If you have some tinsmithing skills, you can make a feeder from galvanized sheet metal.

To get rid of the dusty part of the feed, several small holes are made in the bottom of the feeder.

What materials are the frame and walls made of?

The frame for cages in a rabbitry is made from wooden beam or from a load-bearing (wall) galvanized profile for plasterboard; welded frames from metal pipe. They are the most reliable, but also the heaviest. More suitable for permanent installation in a rabbitry.

The lightest cages are made from a profile, but the choice of materials is very limited - heavy ones cannot be used. When using timber, there are no questions about the weight of the material, but there is a problem - rabbits chew the wood. Therefore, they try to make cells so that there are fewer protruding corners - smooth surfaces they can't chew.

As you saw in the photo, the walls of rabbit cages are made from different materials - plywood, OSB, wooden boards and planks. They often use whoever has what. Most problem areas they beat it with tin or put a mesh on top - this also prevents the wood from being chewed. There are cages that are almost entirely made of mesh. Young animals for fattening feel good in them.

Photo report on the manufacture of a cage for a rabbitry from a galvanized profile

This option is suitable for those regions where wood is expensive or for those who have a lot of profile remains after construction/repair. When making cages, the dimensions are adjusted to the existing molding - small deviations in one direction or another are acceptable, but the rabbits should have room in the cage.

This cage was built for a female with rabbits up to 20 days old. It consists of two sections. The main part is 55*75*55 cm, the mother liquor is 35*55*30 cm. There is a reinforced profile for the racks, and for the crossbars regular job- as usual with drywall - fasten the pieces with self-tapping screws (fleas).

The floor in the main part is made of a block 2 cm thick and 5 cm wide. The planks are attached to the profile with self-tapping screws. The screws must be screwed in so that they can be easily unscrewed - if (or rather, when) the strip is chewed, it will be easy to replace with a new one.

In the queen cell the floor is solid, without cracks. If in winter you are not sure that your rabbitry will be warm enough, it is better to make a double floor in this part and fill the gap with insulation - even expanded clay. In this case, even with a sharp cold snap, the babies will not freeze - their mother usually warms them from above. If it is warm from below, they will not get sick.

The height of the queen cell is 20 cm lower than the main cell. From the inside, in the cage, there is a shelf on which the rabbit will escape from the annoying little ones.

To prevent external plywood joints from being chewed, we cover them with perforated metal corners. You just need to look for the ones that are thicker. We cut the edges of the corners at 45° so that they do not ride up or stick out.

Photos of rabbit cages for installation in a rabbitry and outdoors

Cages in a rabbitry are rarely placed in three tiers - the lower ones are difficult to maintain

Wire walls, pipe frame. Only the back wall is blank - so that there are no drafts

Raising rabbits is a very profitable and not particularly difficult activity. They don't need special care and unusual conditions of detention, which is why you can have a couple of eared animals in your summer cottage.

Raises rabbits a large number of beginning farmers. And first of all, what is worth getting are cages for domestic rabbits. They are not only available for purchase, but you can easily make cages for rabbits with your own hands.

These big-eared animals don't need special conditions content. It is for this reason that you don’t have to buy cages: you can build them yourself. Pros of homemade houses:

Advantages of factory cages:

1. Perfect design taking into account necessary conditions for the life of domestic rabbits
2. The structure contains drinking bowls, trays, feeders and nests.
3. They are constantly in the process of improvement, the designs are becoming more complex: when purchasing a factory cage, a farmer can be absolutely sure that this equipment is modern.

But purchasing ready-made cells enough expensive pleasure , whereas homemade cells for rabbits - budget-friendly.

Types of rabbit cages

If you seriously want to raise rabbits, you need to build not one room, but several. To provide housing for rabbits, you need build a whole complex. It is installed as fresh air, and in the barn - it depends on natural conditions region.

You can develop designs for rabbit cages yourself, or you can also find them on the Internet or in a magazine.

Cages for keeping males. Males need to be housed in individual houses. This should be done in order to avoid fights, competition for food, and unplanned mating. The size of the cage should not interfere with the free movement of the rabbit. If males live in crowded conditions, they will soon become lazy and obese. Such consequences can affect reproductive function: rabbits will not produce offspring.

Cells for keeping female rabbits with cubs. Such cages should be spacious. They are lined up in one tier and consist of two compartments - the main one and the uterine one. In order to prevent the baby rabbits from freezing in winter, it is necessary to insulate the uterine compartment.

Cages for raising baby rabbits. These cages will house rabbits that have reached the age of 2-3 months and have not gained the required weight when fed with a female rabbit. To give the female the opportunity to have new offspring, the grown-up rabbits are placed in a separate cage and fattened until they reach a suitable weight.