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Yakub Kolas

New land

I. LESNIKOVA PASADA

My dear friend, how dear you are to me!..

Forget about it, I have no strength!

More than once, we are tired,

May the wretched life be clear,

I'll go to you in my thoughts

I bury my soul there.

Oh, I wish I had a little bit of it

Darogu live in the parade

Price yashche times, azirnuzza,

Sabrats za darog stone,

Why destroy the strength of a young person,

By the way, I would like to know.

It's clear, it's clear! you are not for me!

Not me, you are the abagrets,

I will gladly put your passage to rest,

Tsyabe forever, it's clear, I'll eat it.

Don’t go back praising me,

How fast does the river float away?

More than once I have worked for couples,

On the wings of the sun dojo to the gloom

Dy iznou dazhjom on the river Sydze

No one left their borders,

From the laws written by life,

Or in the valley and fogs.

Ale hto us yae pakazha?

Why should the snow lie?

You won’t come back, praising me,

Tell me, you are so young!..

Eight yak tsaper, ahead of me

Stay kutochak that jumper,

Krynički narrow box

I tree with pairs of conifers,

Abnyayushysya tsesna over the water,

As a young child it’s time to poop,

Ў aposhni evening parting.

I bach the forest, I kalia huts,

Dze kolis cheerful dzyauchaty

We sang songs to friendly choirs,

From the work ilearned boram.

Tongues sang the songs of the rich,

They fought over and over again,

I the Uzgorians called to them,

I was happy in free songs.

And the pine needles, the centuries-old trees

Pad tongues the song of the young one

They stood like a little girl in the Duma,

I ў ikh tsikhusenechkim noise

It was impossible for the vyachernye malenne

Ogaru, holy addalenne.

Kalya pasada lesnikovay

Tsyagnusya gozhayu greedy

Old, tall forest cyanists.

Here the top asina is roundish

Hiding with pine needles, with oak trees,

And the Christmas trees have gloomy roofs

The sky looked high,

They whispered in the dark with the pine needles.

Meetings are vague, if they are sad,

The greatest hells melted away,

I was so dirty

I'm thinking gals!

The forest is advancing and parting,

Bursting with a green meadow;

And the jumping bends

So mila yshli kalia satziba,

What a simple thing to admire.

And below are the geta forest of chestnuts

There are green tents

Lazy, charomhi qi buckthorns,

Aleshyn lipkikh, verabiny.

Gladzish, I’ve been there, I’m great,

What through the life of Galin,

Through this little cloth

Neither mouse nor bird is a slave.

There's a little tyke in the forest here

The roof is overgrown with grass,

Abodva beragi katorai

Laznyak, broom abstigated;

Bruilisya ў qianku praised them

I ў meadow I just mean destroy

Let's go peacefully between the charms,

They worked a lot of brews,

Until now, Neman hasn’t started talking.

The meadow is green, as if thrown into the woks,

Abrusam lush and wide

Abapal Nemna rasscilaўsya

For the sake of getting started

Let's go to the squalid area

From the frosty grass I smell

I sleep on the sun and the evenings

Canvas tones. Yak on the fields

Zhyta zbazhynki easy gnutstsa

I am glad to the people

Sing to your adopted, dear ones

The light wind fell on the paves,

So gnuzza, goidayuzza grass,

Like the armholes of the windbreaker they are affectionate,

I'll go praise the herbal

I sang charada for the first time,

Whisper the colors between yourself,

Any young couples.

Oh, the meadow is wide! How are you alive,

The soneyka is filled with fire,

Uves staish perad vachima,

You are sweet and smutsen, yak radzima,

Like our quiet old lady,

Dze Smugi blue hoop

The summer hour is hazy

I think about it further.

Although I may not be a zmuchan

I was separated from my native shores,

Yes, my soul aches,

Like I'm thinking about you

Tsyabe, my meadow and native shores,

Dze liezza Neman srebravodny,

Oaks dze friendly charado

Flock like a vezha over the water

The most recent ones

I am threatening with fire.

I’m just here, fallen enchanter,

Fly away, have a good time,

We're tired of Kasba, you're tired

I’ll pack my thoughts into a bucketful,

Sleepy crackers and sweets.

It’s so cool here, so quick!

And the birds are loud and happy

Smyayuzza with a cute shchabyatanny

I will cover the meadow with my own weaving.

And on the oak trees, like hats,

Charneyuts nests of beads.

Beads are clanking, beading

The pishchats are plaintive, like the shchanyats,

We throw at the eel

I ask you, it’s time.

And there, the beads made me sad,

I have been given many more jobs;

Yana began to feel strong,

Yana's wings are already spreading,

Ogaru fall on the location,

I'm catching pavetra, I'm plundering

I clumsy naga

It's funny to dance over the oak trees.

There, at the neighbors' beads,

I verab "i, shpaki vyaduzza;

Klapotna shchebety nyasuzza

I may get to know you in the evenings.

Ў the oak trees of Krychatsia Sivavaronki,

I whistle over the meadows, cuts, calls

Karshun Markotna so early

I'll throw some smutak.

Oh, the meadow is wide! How are you alive,

The grass is covered with frost,

Staish zalyony prada me

I admire my beauty!

Like two old cabets,

To which there are no notes

Fallen by the villain in the middle of the night,

The dreams are as delicious as the eyes are closed,

Take away the beauty and fortress

I steal all their lives

Yes, the hell of them, old ones,

Hell, like a finger, and a little bit of life

I unpatrebic to anyone

For the life of a young man,

So kalia huts, have a little garden,

The little little girl has disappeared into a little corner,

Two old varbs melted away,

And Navakola is young

The Dzyareu people were magnificently beautiful,

The hangings were staring at the light.

Halle spusciўshi nad parkanam,

The pear grew here with thin waists;

Pa-over the parkans to the lush ramparts

The flocks of cherry trees are thick and flowing.

There would be a cage, indeed, nymphs:

Dzve verabina dy three dzichki

Oh, my little willow,

If only I would be my dear daughter.

Ale yak merry i mila

Here the little bee woofed!

I smelled like honey!

The little bees grew up with each year:

Shtoleta vullya stayed

Velma danced on the bees.

The hum of their flocks i day and night.

It happened during a working hour

More than once you can hear the wing of a crest:

Go, tata! dziadzka! The bees have come out!

The raft sat on the cherry tree!

The men quit their jobs

Kasba over the river behind the bushes,

I run away for hours

The bees were not angry at the forest,

So there were a lot of them looking there.

On the jump, in charge of the gardens,

The farmer melted away from the threshing floor,

And I sing songs:

Vase, wheels, panarads,

Old sleigh, vosi, cola

I vullyav nekalki on bees,

My dear, how dear you are to me!..
Forget you, I have no strength!
More than once, we are tired,
May the wretched life be clear,
I'll go to you in my thoughts
And my soul is buried there.
Oh, I wish I had a little bit of it
Darogu live in the parade
Price yashche times, azirnuzza,
Sabrats for the stone gift,
Why destroy the strength of a child, -
By the way, I would like to know.

It's clear, it's clear! you are not for me!
Not me, you are the abagrets,
I will gladly put your passage to rest, -
Tsyabe forever, it's clear, I'll eat it.
Don’t go back praising me,
How fast does the river float away?
More than once I have worked for couples,
On the wings of the sun dojo to the gloom
Dy iznoў dazhjom on the river sydze –
No one leaves their borders,
From the laws written by life,
Or in the valley and fogs.
Ale hto us yae pakazha?
Why should the snow lie?
You won’t come back, praising me,
Tell me, you are so young!..
Eight yak tsaper, ahead of me
Stay kutochak that jumper,
Krynichka narrow box
І tree ў pairs with pine,
Abnyayushysya tsesna over the water,
As a young child it’s time to poop,
Ў late evening parting.
I walk through the forest and visit the huts,
The wheels are cheerful and joyful
They sang songs to friendly choirs,
From work I am learning about the forests.
The songs of the rich were heard,
Ў the lasses fought over and over again,
And the Uzgorks were sticking to them,
And there was joy in free songs.
And the pine needles, the centuries-old trees
Let's sing the song of the young
They stood like a little mouse in a certain Duma,
І ў ў іх сіхусенькій noise
It was impossible for the vyachernye malenne
Ogaru, holy addalenne.

Kalya pasada lesnikovay
Tsyagnusya gozhayu greedy
The forests are old and tall.
Here the top asina is round-shaped
Hiding with pine needles, with oak trees,
And the trees have gloomy roofs
The sky looked high,
The darkness shuffled among the pine needles.
Meetings are vague, if they are sad,
The greatest hells melted away,
And so markotna pasirali
Their intended gals!
The forest advances and partes,
Bursting with a green meadow;
And these jumping bends
So sweetly we went to the wedding,
What a simple thing to love.
And below the geta forest are the chestnuts
There are green tents
Manholes, charms and buckthorns,
Aleshyn lipkikh, verabina.
Look, I’ve been there, and I’m happy,
What through the life of Galina,
Through this little cloth
Neither mouse nor bird did a good job.
There's a little tumbler in the forest here
The roof is overgrown with grass,
Abodva beragi katorai
Laznyak, rakitnik abstavali;
Bruilsya and the tsyanku of their praise
I almost mean destroy the meadow
There is peace between the charms,
Workers made a lot of money,
Until now, Neman has not died.

The meadow is green, like throwing it to the woks,
Lush and wide abrus
Abapal Nemna rassіlaўsya –
For the sake of getting started
This is the quaint region
From the frosty grass I smell
I'm going to sleep and sleep
Canvas tones. Yak na novakh
Living a healthy life is easy
I am happy to make people happy
Singing to our adopted, dear ones
Fall to the light wind of the paves, -
So gnuzza, goidayuzza grass,
Like the wind's armholes they are gentle,
I will go to herbal praises
I sang charada for the first time,
Whisper the colors between yourself,
The palates are young.
Oh, the meadow is wide! How are you alive,
The dormouse is filled with great love,
All the time,
You are sweet and smutty, like a radzima,
Like our old lady,
Dze smugi blue cape
The summer hour is filled with smoke
And think about your future.
No matter how much I'm tired of it
I was separated from my native shores,
Yes, my soul aches,
As I express my thoughts to the woks
Tsiabe, my meadow and native shore,
Dze liezza Neman srebravodny,
Oaks dze friendly charado
Flock like a vezha over the water
The latest from the Vartaunikam
I am threatening with the fire.
And only here, fallen enchantress,
Fly away, have a good time,
We're tired of Kasba, you're tired
And I'll throw away all my thoughts,
Fall asleep strong and sweet.
It’s so cool here, so quick!
And the birds are loud and happy
Smyayuzza sweet shabbyatanny
I will cover the meadow with our weeds.
And on the oak trees, like hats,
Charneyuts nests of beads.
Beads are clanking, beading
Pishchats are plaintive, like shchanyats,
We give our thanks to the eel
I ask that it is time.
And there, the beads were exhausting,
Their jobs continue to grow;
Yana patchouli has its own strength,
Yana's wings are already spreading,
Ogaru fall on the location,
I'm catching pavetra, I'm plundering
And clumsy nakedness
It's funny to dance over oak trees.
There, at the neighbors with buslamas,
I believe, shpaki vyadutstsa;
Klapotna shchebety nyasuzza
I may get to know you in the evening.
Ў oak trees of Krychatsia Sivavaronki,
And the whistle over the meadows is sharp, ringing
Karshun Markotna so early
And some confusion is thrown.
Oh, the meadow is wide! How are you alive,
The grass is covered with frost,
Staish are angry with me
And you see the beauty!
Like two old cabanas,
To which there are many obscurities
Fallen by the villain in the middle of the night,
The dreams are as delicious as the eyes are closed,
You take away the beauty and fortress
And all their lives are stolen
Yes, all the damn old ones,
Hell as a finger, and a little bit of life
І non-pathological anikomu
For the life of a young man, -
So kalia huts, have a little garden,
A little baby and a little bundle,
Two old woods were melting,
And Navakola is young
The Dzyareu people were magnificently beautiful,
They hung out into the light.
Halle spusciўshi nad parkanami,
A pear with thin waists has grown here;
Pa-over the parkans to the lush ramparts
The cherry trees are thick and flowing.
The cage would, however, be naughty:
Two verabina and three dzichki
Let's go between the little willows,
If only their granddaughter would be a gift.
Ale is so cheerful and sweet
Here the little bee is hooting!
And how the reception room smelled of honey!
The bees have grown over the years:
Stoleta vullya stayed -
Velma danced on the bee.
The hum of their flocks is both day and night.
It happened during a working hour
More than once you can hear the wing of a crest:
- Go, dad! dziadzka! The bees are out!
On the outskirts of the village, kala raft!
The men gave up work,
Kasba over the river behind the bushes,
I'll run away, until the clock
The bees are not angry at the forest,
So there are some nice looking things there.

At the jumping station, in charge of the gardens,
The farmer melted away from the threshing floor,
And I sing songs:
Vase, wheels, panarads,
Old sleigh, wax, cola
And I’m crying out for bees,
Yashche nyakonchanykh; sudzina,
Old tsaberak, pauasmina
There are all sorts of rubbish and scrap lying around,
Hell of a sun, rainy day -
Patrabny rachy, ests vyadom!
Gumentsa, covered with Salomai,
Hell died down for a long time;
Saloma kudlami is happy,
I have parazed the winds,
And the three boys were grazing,
There were crawlers in fear, -
This fun kept them busy.
And fell shchytom on pavutsina
Nishchymny kola-siratsina
Ў the idea is easy to figure out;
I've been hanging out there for hours now,
That God is holy, you know!
Budoulya, big yashche old,
Rotten, I'm driven by fear
A bunch of slobs just like that
I feel like I'm on the ground
Garshchok, broken by Kacharga.
Old, paedzeny charvyami,
On one side they are covered with wind,
Glyadze's barn gety starychynay,
Pakhіlay dolay zhabrachynay;
And on the side, in the field, not far
A flock of jumper adzinoka,
Smells, bitter orchards,
The valleys are stubborn with fear.
The hut melted away from the boulders of the dvara
I looked zukhavata
Pamizh zapushchanay budovy,
As if a noblewoman zastsyankova,
What is the holy day kalia kascela,
Just a little bit, the falling edge of the padol,
It is so important to walk with parasons,
Falling back, like agony,
Z darozhak ardor, pyasok zganyae
And look at the boys' eyes.

For the Khatai field I was plowing,
Dze zhyta khorasha gaidalas
I grew weight, barley and buckwheat, –
It was a sneaky little scoundrel!..

My dear kut, meadows, krynitsa!
For you, I am a stranger.
The same forest, those same palettes,
Yes, there are other people living there.
It fills my soul with turmoil,
What has happened, the little bastards have sunk,
May happy little girls, -
Praishla, you are clearly young!

Let's heat up the clock,
Let's jump closer to the huts,
Yes Mikhasya and yes Antosya,
The yak was hanging there, the yak was living there.

The exact date of origin of the name Novaya Zemlya is not known. Perhaps it was formed as a copy of the Nenets Edey-Ya “New Earth”. If so, then the name could have arisen during the first visits to the islands by Russians in the 11th-12th centuries. The use of the name Novaya Zemlya at the end of the 15th century is recorded by foreign sources.

The Pomors also used the name Matka, the meaning of which remains unclear. It is often understood as “nurse, rich land.”

And the land there is really rich, but not in plants, but in animals, which were hunted by commercial hunters. Here, for example, is how the artist A. Borisov wrote about the riches of the Arctic at the end of the 18th century, having visited Yugorsky Shar and Vaigach:

“Wow, how nice it would be to live here in this region rich in fisheries! In our places (Vologda province), look how a man works all year round, day after day, and only barely, with all his modesty, can feed himself and his family. Not so here! Here, sometimes one week is enough to provide for yourself for a whole year, if traders did not exploit the Samoyeds so much, if the Samoyeds were at least somewhat able to preserve and manage this rich property...”

Based on the Pomeranian uterus (compass), the name is associated with the need to use a compass for sailing to Novaya Zemlya. But, as V.I. Nemirovich-Danchenko wrote, “Svenske, in his description of Novaya Zemlya, says that the name of the Matochkin Shar strait comes from the word - matochka (small compass). This is not true: Matochkin’s ball is called Matochkin’s in contrast to other small Novaya Zemlya balls, since it crosses the entire Matka, that is, the hardened land of this archipelago.”

In Finnish, Karelian, Veps matka - “path, road”, in Estonian matk “journey, wandering”. The term is widely represented in the toponymy of the North (cf. Matkoma, Matkozero, Irdomatka, etc.), it was mastered by the Pomors, and perhaps the name Matka is associated with it.

Novaya Zemlya is located on the border of two seas. In the west it is washed by the Barents Sea, and in the east by the Kara Sea.

The archipelago consists of two large islands and many small ones. In general, we can say that Novaya Zemlya is two islands: South and North, separated by the narrow Matochkin Shar Strait.

The distance from the northernmost point of Novaya Zemlya (Cape Zhelaniya) to the North Pole is only about one and a half thousand kilometers.

Cape Flissingsky of the North Island is the most eastern point Europe.

Novaya Zemlya belongs to the Arkhangelsk region, as well as another neighboring Arctic archipelago - Franz Josef Land. That is, residents of the Arkhangelsk region, having visited Novaya Zemlya, will actually not even leave their subject, despite the fact that from Arkhangelsk to Novaya Zemlya in a straight line is about 900 kilometers, almost the same as to Moscow, Estonia or Norway.

The Barents Sea, along which Russian Pomors had been sailing for several centuries, was visited in 1594, 1595 and 1596 by expeditions led by the Dutch navigator Willem Barents and, although he was not even the first foreign traveler to visit Novaya Zemlya, the sea in 1853 was named after him. This name has been retained to this day, despite the fact that in Russia in the old days this sea was called the Northern, Siversky, Moscow, Russian, Arctic, Pechora and most often Murmansk.

Something about the geology and climate of the archipelago

Novaya Zemlya in the west is washed by the relatively warm Barents Sea (compared to the Kara Sea), and due to this the weather there can be quite warm, and even, oddly enough, sometimes warmer than on the coast. Weather forecast on Novaya Zemlya now (in Belushaya Guba), as well as for comparison on the coast (in Amderma):

The so-called “Novaya Zemlya bora” is very interesting and noteworthy - a strong, cold, gusty local wind, reaching up to 35-40 m/s, and sometimes 40-55 m/s! Such winds off the coast often reach the strength of a hurricane and weaken with distance from the coast.

The word Bora (bora, Βορέας, boreas) is translated as cold north wind.

Bora occurs when a flow of cold air encounters a hill on its way; Having overcome the obstacle, the bora hits the coast with enormous force. The vertical dimensions of the bora are several hundred meters. As a rule, it affects small areas where low mountains directly border the sea.

The Novaya Zemlya forest is caused by the presence of a mountain range stretching from south to north along the island. Therefore, it is celebrated on the western and eastern coasts of the South Island. Characteristic signs of a “bora” on the west coast are strong gusty and very cold winds from the northeast or southeast. On the east coast - winds from the west or north-west.

The greatest frequency of the Novaya Zemlya bora is observed in November - April, often lasting 10 days or more. During bora, all visible air is filled with thick snow and resembles smoking smoke. Visibility in these cases often reaches its complete absence - 0 meters. Such storms are dangerous for people and equipment and require residents to use forethought and caution when moving in case of emergency.

The Novaya Zemlya Ridge influences not only the direction, but also the speed of the wind crossing it. The mountain range contributes to increased wind speed on the leeward side. With an easterly wind, air accumulates on the windward side, which, when passing over the ridge, leads to air collapses, accompanied by strong gusty winds, the speed of which reaches 35-40 m/s, and sometimes 40-45 m/s (in the area of ​​the village of Severny up to 45-55 m/s).

New Earth is covered with “thorns” in many places. If I’m not mistaken, this is slate and phyllite (from the Greek phýllon - leaf) - a metamorphic rock, which in structure and composition is transitional between clayey and mica slate. In general, almost everywhere in the south of New Zealand that we visited, the land is like this. That’s why the running dogs here always had wounded paws.

Previously, when Europeans had boots with leather soles, they constantly risked tearing their shoes. There is a story on this topic told by Stepan Pisakhov in his diary: “In the first days, I decided to go away from the camp. She saw Malanya, started shaking, hurried, and caught up. - Where are you going? - To Chum Mountain. Malanya looked at my feet - I was wearing boots - How are you going back? Are you going to roll yourself sideways? - Malanya explained that the shoes would soon break on sharp rocks. - I'll bring you pima. I waited.

Malanya brought new seal pimas with seal soles. - Put it on. In these pymas it’s good to walk on pebbles and you can walk on water. How much do pima cost? - One and a half rubles. It seemed cheap to me. Surprise resulted in a question: “Both?” Malanya laughed a long laugh and even sat down on the ground. Waving her hands, she swayed. And through laughter she said - No, just one! You wear one, I’ll wear one. You step your foot, and I step your foot. So let's go. Malanya laughed and told an old Nenets fairy tale about people with one leg who can only walk by hugging each other - They live there loving each other. There is no malice there. They don’t deceive there,” Malanya finished and fell silent, thought, and looked into the distance of the tale being told. Malanya was silent for a long time. The dogs have calmed down, curled up in balls, and are sleeping. Only the dogs’ ears tremble with every new sound.”

Modern life on Novaya Zemlya

First of all, many people associate Novaya Zemlya with a nuclear test site and testing of the most powerful hydrogen bomb in the history of mankind - the 58-megaton Tsar Bomba. Therefore, there is a widespread myth that after nuclear tests it is impossible to live on Novaya Zemlya due to radiation. In fact, to put it mildly, everything is completely different.

On Novaya Zemlya there are military towns - Belushya Guba and Rogachevo, as well as the village of Severny (without permanent population). In Rogachevo there is a military airfield - Amderma-2.

There is also a base for underground testing, mining and construction work. On Novaya Zemlya, the Pavlovskoye, Severnoye and Perevalnoe ore fields with deposits of polymetallic ores were discovered. The Pavlovskoye field is so far the only field on Novaya Zemlya for which balance reserves have been approved and which is planned to be developed.

2,149 people live in Belushaya Guba, 457 people live in Rogachevo. Of these, 1,694 are military personnel; civilians - 603 people; children - 302 people. Currently, personnel also live and serve in the village of Severny, at the Malye Karmakuly weather station, at the Pankovaya Zemlya and Chirakino helipads.

On Novaya Zemlya there is an Officers' House, a soldiers' club, sports complex"Arctic", high school, kindergarten "Punochka", five canteens, military hospital. There is also a food store "Polyus", a department store "Metelitsa", a vegetable store "Spolokhi", a cafe "Fregat", a children's cafe "Skazka", a store "North". The names are just mi-mi-mi :)

Novaya Zemlya is considered a separate municipal entity with the status of an urban district. The administrative center is the village of Belushya Guba. Novaya Zemlya is a ZATO (closed administrative-territorial entity). This means that you need a pass to enter the urban district.

Website of the municipal formation “Novaya Zemlya” - http://nov-zemlya.ru.

Until the early 1990s. the very existence of settlements on Novaya Zemlya was a state secret. The postal address of the village of Belushya Guba was “Arkhangelsk-55”, the village of Rogachevo and the “points” located in the south - “Arkhangelsk-56”. The postal address of the “points” located in the north is “ Krasnoyarsk region, Dikson Island-2". This information has now been declassified.

There is also a weather station called Malye Karmakuly on Novaya Zemlya. And in the north of Novaya Zemlya (Cape Zhelaniya) there is a stronghold of the Russian Arctic National Park, where its employees live in the summer.

How to get to Novaya Zemlya

Regular planes fly to Novaya Zemlya. Since November 5, 2015, Aviastar Petersburg has been operating passenger and cargo flights on the route Arkhangelsk (Talagi) - Amderma-2 - Arkhangelsk (Talagi) on An-24 and An-26 aircraft.

For questions regarding purchasing tickets, booking tickets, the date and time of departure for regular civil aviation flights to Novaya Zemlya, you can contact representatives of Aviastar Petersburg LLC on weekdays from 9.30 to 19.00.

Representative of Aviastar tel. +7 812 777 06 58, Moskovskoe shosse, 25, building 1, letter B. Representative in Arkhangelsk tel. 8 921 488 00 44. Representative in Belushya Guba tel. 8 911 597 69 08.

You can also get to Novaya Zemlya by sea - by boat. Personally, we visited there exactly like that.

History of Novaya Zemlya

It is believed that Novaya Zemlya was discovered by Russians already in the 12th-15th centuries. The first written evidence of the presence and fishing activities of Russians on the archipelago dates back to the 16th century and belongs to foreigners. Indisputable material evidence of the long-standing presence of Russians on the archipelago was recorded in 1594 and 1596-1597. in the diaries of De Fer - a participant in the Dutch expeditions led by Willem Barents.

By the first arrival of Europeans to Novaya Zemlya, unique spiritual and fishing traditions of Russian Pomors had already developed here. Novaya Zemlya was visited by fishermen seasonally to hunt sea animals (walruses, seals, polar bears), fur-bearing animals, birds, as well as collect eggs and catch fish. Hunters obtained walrus tusks, arctic fox, bear, walrus, seal and deer skins, walrus, seal, beluga and bear “fat” (blub), omul and char, geese and other birds, as well as eider down.

The Pomors had fishing huts on Novaya Zemlya, but they did not dare to stay there for the winter. And not so much because of the harsh climate, but because of the terrible polar disease - scurvy.

Industrialists brought timber and bricks themselves to build huts. The houses were heated with firewood brought with them on the ship. According to surveys conducted among industrialists in 1819, “there are no natural inhabitants; nothing has been heard of since the beginning of centuries,” i.e. any indigenous inhabitants of Novaya Zemlya were unknown to the fishermen.

Discovery of Novaya Zemlya by foreign navigators

Due to the fact that Spain and Portugal dominated the southern sea routes, in the 16th century English sailors were forced to look for a northeastern passage to the countries of the East (in particular, to India). This is how they got to Novaya Zemlya.

First unsuccessful expedition:

In 1533, H. Willoughby left England and apparently reached the southern coast of Novaya Zemlya. Turning back, the two ships of the expedition were forced to winter at the mouth of the Varsina River in eastern Murman. The following year, the Pomors accidentally stumbled upon these ships with the corpses of 63 English winter participants.

The following unfinished expeditions, but without casualties:

In 1556, an English ship under the command of S. Borro reached the shores of Novaya Zemlya, where it met the crew of a Russian boat. Ice accumulation in the Yugorsky Shar Strait forced the expedition to return to England. In 1580, the English expedition of A. Pete and C. Jackman on two ships reached Novaya Zemlya, but solid ice in the Kara Sea also forced them to sail to their homeland.

Expeditions with casualties, but also achieved goals:

In 1594, 1595 and 1596, three trade sea expeditions headed from Holland to India and China through the northeast passage. One of the leaders of all three expeditions was the Dutch navigator Willem Barents. In 1594, he passed along the northwestern coast of Novaya Zemlya and reached its northern tip. Along the way, the Dutch repeatedly encountered material evidence of the Russians’ presence on Novaya Zemlya.

On August 26, 1596, Barents' ship was sunk off the northeastern coast of the archipelago, in Ice Harbor. The Dutch had to build a dwelling on the shore from driftwood and ship planks. During the winter, two crew members died. On June 14, 1597, abandoning the ship, the Dutch sailed in two boats from Ice Harbor. Near the northwestern coast of Novaya Zemlya, in the area of ​​Ivanova Bay, V. Barents and his servant died, and a little later another member of the expedition died.

On the southern coast of the archipelago, in the area of ​​the Costin Shar Strait, the Dutch met two Russian boats and received rye bread and smoked birds from them. By boat, the surviving 12 Dutchmen reached Kola, where they accidentally met the second ship of the expedition and arrived in Holland on October 30, 1597.

Subsequent expeditions:

Then the English navigator G. Hudson visited Novaya Zemlya in 1608 (during landing on the archipelago, he discovered a Pomeranian cross and the remains of a fire); in 1653, three Danish ships reached Novaya Zemlya.

Further, until 1725-1730, Novaya Zemlya was visited by the Danes, Dutch, and English, and at this point the voyages of foreign ships to the archipelago ceased until the 19th century. The most outstanding of the expeditions were the two Dutch expeditions of V. Barents. The main merit of Barents and De-Fer was the compilation of the first map of the western and northern coasts of Novaya Zemlya.

Study of Novaya Zemlya by Russians

It all started with two unsuccessful expeditions:

In 1652, by decree of Tsar Alexei Mikhailovich, the expedition of Roman Neplyuev set off to Novaya Zemlya to search for silver and copper ores, precious stones and pearls. Most of the 83 participants and Neplyuev himself died during the winter south of Dolgiy Island.

In 1671, an expedition led by Ivan Neklyudov was sent to Novaya Zemlya to search for silver ore and to build a wooden fortress on the archipelago. In 1672, all members of the expedition died.

Finally, relative luck:

In 1760-1761 Savva Loshkin first sailed on a boat from south to north along the eastern shore of Novaya Zemlya, spending two years on it. One of his winter quarters was apparently built at the mouth of the Savina River. Loshkin circled the northern coast and descended to the south along the western coast.

In 1766, the helmsman Yakov Chirakin sailed on the ship of the Arkhangelsk merchant A. Barmin from the Barents Sea to the Kara Strait of Matochkin Shar. Having learned about this, Arkhangelsk Governor A.E. Golovtsyn agreed with Barmin to send the ship with the expedition.

In July 1768, an expedition led by F.F. Rozmyslova went on a three-masted kochmara to the western mouth of the Matochkin Shar Strait to map the strait and measure its depth. The objectives of the expedition were: to pass, if possible, through Matochkin Shar and the Kara Sea to the mouth of the Ob River and to study the possibility of opening a route from the Kara Sea to North America. From August 15, 1768, the expedition carried out measurements and studies of Matochkina Shar. At the eastern mouth of the strait - Tyulenyaya Bay and on Cape Drovyanoy, two huts were built, where, dividing into two groups, the expedition spent the winter. Yakov Chirakin died during the winter. Of the 14 expedition members, 7 died.
Returning to the western mouth of the Matochkin Shar, the expedition met a Pomeranian fishing vessel. The rotten kochmara had to be left at the mouth of the Chirakina River and returned to Arkhangelsk on September 9, 1769 on a Pomor ship.

Of course, the name of Rozmyslov should take one of the first places among the outstanding Russian sailors and Arctic explorers. He not only measured and mapped the semi-legendary Matochkin Shar Strait for the first time. Rozmyslov gave the first description of the natural environment of the strait: the surrounding mountains, lakes, and some representatives of the flora and fauna. Moreover, he carried out regular weather observations and recorded the time of freezing and breaking up of ice in the strait. Fulfilling the assignment given to him, Rozmyslov built the first winter hut in the eastern part of the Matochkin Shar Strait. This winter hut was later used by industrialists and researchers of the archipelago.

In 1806, Chancellor N.P. Rumyantsev allocated funds to search for silver ore on Novaya Zemlya. Under the leadership of the mining official V. Ludlov, in June 1807, two mining masters and eleven members of the ship’s crew set off for the archipelago on the single-masted sloop “Pchela”. The expedition visited the island of Mezhdusharsky, visiting the famous Pomeranian settlement of Valkovo. While studying the islands in the Costin Shar Strait, Ludlov discovered deposits of gypsum.

In 1821-1824. Lieutenant F.P. Litke led four expeditions on the military brig Novaya Zemlya. Expeditions led by Litke made an inventory of the western coast of Novaya Zemlya from the Kara Gate Strait to Cape Nassau. The consolidated ice did not allow us to break further to the North. For the first time, a whole complex was carried out scientific observations: meteorological, geomagnetic and astronomical.

In 1832, difficult ice conditions in the Kara Gates forced the expedition of P.K. Pakhtusov to put the single-masted, deckless large carbass “Novaya Zemlya” for the winter off the southern coast of the archipelago, in Kamenka Bay. The remains of a Pomeranian hut and driftwood found here were used to build housing. As soon as all the expedition members moved to the rebuilt winter hut, from the second ten days of September they began to keep a meteorological journal, entering into it the readings of the barometer, thermometer and the state of the atmosphere every two hours. With the end of winter, multi-day walking routes began with the aim of inventorying and filming the southern shores of the archipelago. The results of the expedition are the drawing up of the first map of the entire eastern coast of the South Island of the archipelago. Thanks to his subsequent expeditions, outstanding results were achieved. Pakhtusov described South coast Matochkina Shara, eastern coast of the archipelago from the Kara Gate to Cape Dalniy.

Then in 1837 we were on the schooner “Krotov” and the small boat “St. Elisha” expedition of the Imperial Academy of Sciences under the leadership of Academician K. Baer. The ship was commanded by warrant officer A.K. Tsivodka.
In 1838, under the command of warrant officer A.K. Tsivolka, an expedition was sent to Novaya Zemlya on the schooners “Novaya Zemlya” and “Spitsbergen”. The second schooner was commanded by warrant officer S.A. Moiseev. As a result, a number of important studies were carried out; famous domestic and Western European scientists repeatedly addressed the various scientific results of the Tsivolki-Moiseev expedition.

In subsequent years, the Pomors, who continued to fish on Novaya Zemlya, at the request of the famous Siberian industrialist M.K. Sidorov, landed in the places indicated by him, collected rock samples and erected claim posts. In 1870, Sidorov published the project “On the benefits of settlement on Novaya Zemlya for the development of marine and other industries.”

Commercial development of Novaya Zemlya

The history of the creation of fishing settlements on Novaya Zemlya has purely “political roots.” This region has long been “Russian”, but unfortunately there was not a single permanent settlement here. The first Russian settlers in the North and their descendants, the Pomors, came here to fish. But for some reason the “simple Rusaks” believed that their Arctic paradise would always be inaccessible to the “nemchura”, “Germans” - foreigners (“Germans”, i.e. dumb, not speaking Russian, the Pomors called all foreigners). And they were clearly wrong.

It is known that back in the 16th century, soon after the Dutchman Willem Barents and his associates visited the region, Europe became interested in this particular “corner of the Russian Arctic.” And to confirm this, “in 1611 a society was formed in Amsterdam that established hunting in the seas near Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya,” and in 1701 the Dutch equipped up to 2,000 ships to Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya to “beat whales.” According to the information of the famous Siberian merchant and philanthropist M.K. Sidorov, who spent his entire life and fortune just to prove that Russia’s strength lies in the development of Siberia and the North, “before Peter the Great, the Dutch freely hunted whales in Russian territory.”

At the end of the 18th - first third of the 19th century, when the North Atlantic whale and fish stocks had already dried up, and the beaches and shallows of Jan Mayen and Bear, Spitsbergen and other islands lost their once familiar appearance - walruses and seals, polar bears, our eternal competitors in the development of the North, the Norwegians, turned their attention to the undeveloped eastern expanses of the Barents Sea - the islands of Kolguev, Vaygach and Novaya Zemlya, the icy Kara Sea, still “teeming” with Arctic life. The main period of their exploitation of the Novaya Zemlya fields covers approximately a 60-year period - from the end of the second third of the 19th century to the end of the 1920s.

Although Norwegian industrialists appeared in the Novaya Zemlya fisheries several centuries later than Russian sea game hunters and Nenets, the presence of the Scandinavians in the region was very large-scale, and the nature of the exploitation of natural resources was predatory and poaching. In just a few years, they mastered the entire range of Russian fisheries on the Barents Sea side of both islands of Novaya Zemlya, penetrated into the Kara Sea through Cape Zhelaniya, the Yugorsky Shar and Kara Gate straits and onto the eastern coast of the archipelago. Well-equipped and financially secure Norwegian sea game industrialists, who have long hunted whales and seals in the North Atlantic and off Spitsbergen, skillfully took advantage of the experience of the Arkhangelsk Pomors.

When sailing along the coast of the archipelago, the Norwegians relied on navigational and noticeable signs (gurias, crosses) set by the Pomors, and used old Russian camps or their remains as strong points. These camps also served as a signal to the Norwegians that the fisheries were somewhere nearby, since the Pomors usually built camps and huts near them. By the beginning of the 20th century. they even organized several winter quarters on the archipelago.

An entire branch of the Norwegian economy quickly matured in Russian fisheries, and small villages in the northern region of our Scandinavian neighbor, from where fishing expeditions were sent to the Arctic, turned into prosperous cities in a matter of years, creating a good financial foundation for the entire twentieth century.

“The development of fisheries by the Norwegians in the Barents and Kara Seas, on Vaigach and Kolguev contributed to the development of the outlying cities of Norway. So, small town Hammerfest, one of the northernmost cities in the world in the mid-19th century, had no more than 100 inhabitants in 1820. After 40 years, 1,750 people already lived there. Hammerfest developed its fisheries on Spitsbergen and Novaya Zemlya, and in 1869 sent 27 ships with a displacement of 814 tons and 268 crew for the fisheries.”

Knowing about the existence in Russia of laws of “coastal law that prohibit foreigners from settling the shores of the islands without the permission of the government,” the Norwegians quite cleverly avoided this legal obstacle. In particular, according to the famous Arkhangelsk Pomor F.I. Voronin, who had been trading on Novaya Zemlya for 30 years, knew of cases when “agents of Norwegian merchants, having their relatives as colonists on the Murmansk coast, extended their plans not only to the island of Novaya Zemlya, but also to Kolguev and Vaygach.

And so, in order to somehow protect themselves from Norwegian expansion in the Russian North, in the 1870s, a plan matured in the bowels of the Arkhangelsk provincial administration - to create settlements on Novaya Zemlya, denoting national interest in this region of the Arctic. Naturally, the good idea was supported in the capital. The go-ahead is coming from St. Petersburg to Arkhangelsk to begin the colonization of the Arctic island. The beginning of the existence of the Novaya Zemlya island hunting industry should be considered the second half of the 1870s, when the Arkhangelsk provincial administration, with state support, founded the first permanent settlement on the archipelago - the Malye Karmakuly camp.

From the very beginning of the creation of settlements on the Arctic archipelago, both the state and the provincial authorities believed that the main occupation of the Nenets on Novaya Zemlya would be fishing activities. The provincial administration even developed and implemented a number of measures to stimulate the involvement of the Nenets in relocating to Novaya Zemlya and supporting their fishing activities.
In the initial period of colonization of Novaya Zemlya, according to the highest royal decree, each pioneer male industrialist was entitled to 350 rubles from the state treasury as “lift” or compensation. At the same time, the settlers were exempt from all government and zemstvo fees for 10 years, and those who wished to move back to the mainland after five years could return to their previous place of residence without prior permission.

In 1892, by order of the Minister of the Interior, 10% of the gross proceeds from the sale of craft products were to be “credited to a special reserve colonization capital, and the net profit of individual colonists was to be deposited in a savings bank in special personal books.” Each Samoyed hunter was entitled to a special book signed by the governor, in which “the amount belonging to the owner of the book is indicated.” The spare capital was used to provide assistance to the first settlers - to deliver them from the tundra to Arkhangelsk, live there for several months, provide clothing and fishing tools, deliver them to Novaya Zemlya, issue gratuitous cash benefits, etc.

Settlement of Novaya Zemlya (its inhabitants)

The residence of indigenous Samoyeds on Novaya Zemlya before the 19th century, unlike Vaigach (an island located between Novaya Zemlya and the mainland), has not been confirmed.

However, when in 1653 (after Barents and other foreign predecessors) three Danish ships reached Novaya Zemlya, the ship’s doctor of this expedition, De Lamartiniere, in his description of the voyage to the archipelago, pointed to a meeting with local residents - “New Zealanders”. Like the Samoyeds (Nenets), they worshiped the sun and wooden idols, but differed from the Samoyeds in clothing, jewelry and face paint. Lamartiniere points out that they used boats that resembled light canoes, and the tips of their spears and arrows, like their other tools, were made of fish bones.

There are also references in the literature to attempts by Russian families to settle on the archipelago in the 16th-18th centuries. There is a legend that Stroganov Bay, located in the southwestern part of Novaya Zemlya, is named after the Stroganov family, who fled Novgorod during the persecution of Ivan the Terrible. Two hundred years later, in 1763, 12 members of the Old Believer Paikachev family settled on the coast of Chernaya Bay (southern part of the archipelago). They were forced to flee Kem, refusing to renounce their faith. Both families died, apparently from scurvy.

However, it is reliably known that Novaya Zemlya became inhabited only at the end of the 19th century. In 1867, on two boats, the Nenets Foma Vylka sailed to the southern coast of Novaya Zemlya with his wife Arina and children. The Nenets who accompanied them went back in the fall, and Vylka with her family and the Nenets Samdey remained for the winter. At the end of winter Samdey died. Vylka became the first known permanent resident of the archipelago. He lived on Goose Land, in Malye Karmakuly and on the coast of Matochkina Shar.

In 1869 or 1870, an industrialist brought several Nenets (Samoyeds) for the winter and they lived on Novaya Zemlya for several years. In 1872, the second Nenets family arrived in Novaya Zemlya - the Pyrerki of Maxim Danilovich. The Nenets proved that man can live on Novaya Zemlya.

“In 1877, a rescue station was established in the settlement of Malye Karmakuly with the aim of providing industrialists with a reliable shelter both during fishing and in case of an unexpected winter, and at the same time to provide assistance to the crews of ships in the event of their wreck near this island.
In addition, to protect the erected buildings and to engage in trades there, five Samoyed families from the Mezen district, numbering 24 people, were then brought to Novaya Zemlya and settled in the Malokarmakul encampment; They were provided with warm clothing, shoes, guns, gunpowder, lead, food supplies and other tools for hunting and crafts.

Sent to Novaya Zemlya to set up a rescue station, Lieutenant Tyagin of the corps of naval navigators met there the same two Samoyed families, consisting of 11 people, who had been wandering around Mollera Bay for eight years.

These Samoyeds were sent here by a Pechora industrialist, and they were supplied good means for crafts, but they squandered them and, without risking returning to their homeland, completely got used to the New Earth. Finding themselves in complete economic dependence on one of the Pomor industrialists, who supplied them with the necessary supplies, in return - of course, at incredibly cheap prices - taking away their craft items, the Samoyeds asked Tyagin to include them in the Samoyed artel brought with the funds of the Water Rescue Society.” . A. P. Engelhardt. Russian North: Travel notes. St. Petersburg, published by A.S. Suvorin, 1897

Expedition of E.A. Tyagin. built a rescue station in Malye Karmakuly and carried out hydrometeorological observations during wintering. Tyagin’s wife gave birth to a child, who became one of the first children born on Novaya Zemlya.

The families of Nenets colonists who settled in Malye Karmakuly elected Foma Vylka as the first inhabitant of the island, headman. He was entrusted with taking care of the human colonists, maintaining order, as well as organizing the unloading and loading of sea vessels. When performing his official duties, Foma wore a white round tin badge over his patched and blubber-salted malitsa, which meant he was a foreman. After Tyatin’s departure, all management of the rescue station passed into the hands of Foma. He fulfilled this duty conscientiously for many years.

The first known inhabitant of Novaya Zemlya - Foma Vylka

Foma Vylka is an interesting person. He was born on the banks of Golodnaya Bay at the mouth of the Pechora River, in a very poor family. At the age of seven, left an orphan, he became a farm laborer for a rich reindeer herder and worked only to be fed.

The owner had a son who was taught to read and write, forced to read and write. Foma saw all this. He asked the young owner - they were the same age - to teach him how to read and write. They went further into the tundra or into the forest, where no one could see them, there they drew letters in the snow or sand, put words together, and read them syllable by syllable. This is how Thomas learned Russian literacy. And one day, when the owner severely beat Thomas, he ran away from the house, taking with him the owner’s psalter...

Moving from pasture to pasture, where many reindeer herders gathered, Foma looked for a beautiful girl and decided to get married. Violating the ancient rituals of matchmaking, he himself asked the girl if she wanted to become his wife. And only when he received her consent, he sent matchmakers. Several years have passed. Thomas came to the ancient capital of the European Nenets, Pustozersk, for a fair. Here he was persuaded to accept Christianity, marry his wife according to Christian rites, and baptize his daughter. Thomas himself had to confess in church. This is where something unexpected happened. The priest asked the confessor, “Didn’t you steal?” Thomas became worried, upset, and even wanted to run away, but finally admitted that in childhood he took the psalter from the owner...

The new owner, to whom Foma hired himself for this work, invited him to go to Vaygach Island at the head of the owner’s fishing team to hunt for sea animals. So for three years Thomas sailed on carbass across the sea to Vaygach and always brought good booty to the owner. Foma's reputation as a successful hunter, a skilled pilot and a good leader of a fishing artel was strengthened. After some time, he began to ask the owner to send him with an artel to fish for sea animals on Novaya Zemlya. The owner approved this plan, assembled an artel, and equipped two sailing boats. On the way to Novaya Zemlya they were met by a strong storm, the rudder of one carbass was torn off, and Foma was washed out to sea. Miraculously, the assistant pulled him on board by his hair. One carbass turned back, the second, driven by Foma Vylka, safely reached the shores of Novaya Zemlya. This is how Foma Vylka and his wife and daughter first came to Novaya Zemlya. A year later their second daughter was born there.

One day, Thomas was returning from fishing and saw a large polar bear near the hut-hill, where his wife and children were. The polar bear was considered a sacred beast among the Nenets. Hunting for it was not prohibited, but the hunter, before killing this animal, must mentally advise the bear to leave in good health. If the bear does not leave, it means that he himself wishes to die. Thomas killed the polar bear, approached him, apologized, and bowed to him as the owner of Novaya Zemlya and the sea. According to ancient Nenets customs, only men were allowed to eat bear meat. The carcass of the sacred beast could be brought into the tent not through the door, which was considered an unclean place, but only from the front side of the tent, by lifting its cover. Women could eat bear meat if they drew a mustache and beard on themselves with charcoal. Such a “cunning move” with a deviation from ancient rituals apparently helped many Nenets women escape from starvation.

Foma Vylka’s family had to endure many difficulties on Novaya Zemlya. Harsh, endlessly long winters, loneliness. Food was obtained with great difficulty, clothes and shoes were made from animal skins. There was not enough firewood to warm and light the tent a little; they burned blubber - the fat of sea animals.

One day, when the family of another Nenets, Pyrerka Maxim Danilovich, was already living on the island next to Vylka’s family, such an event happened. In late autumn, Norwegian sailors from a broken ship came to the Nenets tents. Their appearance was terrible: exhausted to the point of death, in tattered clothes and shoes. Foma and Pyrerka gladly accepted them into their tents, fed them, warmed them, and provided them with the best places in the tent. The wives sewed them warm fur clothes and shoes. The Norwegians did not eat seal meat, and the Nenets had to specially go hunting in the mountains, kill wild deer there and feed the guest fresh boiled meat. When one of the Norwegians fell ill with scurvy, Foma and Pyrerka forcibly forced him to drink the warm blood of animals and eat raw deer meat, rubbed his legs and body, forced him to walk, did not allow him to sleep much, and thus saved him from death.

In the spring, the Nenets gave the Norwegian sailors a boat, and they left for their homeland. The parting was very touching: they cried, kissed, hugged, the sailors thanked the Nenets for saving them from inevitable death. Gifts were exchanged. They gave Foma a pipe, and he gave them a walrus tusk.

Several years have passed since the sailors left. One day a sea steamer came to Malye Karmakuly. All Nenets colonists were invited to it. The Swedish envoy read and presented a letter of gratitude signed by the Swedish king. Then they began to distribute gifts. The first gift to Foma Vylka was a shotgun and cartridges. They showed how to use it. Foma, with joy, could not resist and immediately hit the head of a floating loon with a shot from his hand, thereby disrupting the order of the solemn ceremony...

Development of Novaya Zemlya

In 1880, M.K. Sidorov, together with shipowners Kononov, Voronov and Sudovikov, submitted a report to the Minister of Internal Affairs on improving the situation in the Northern Territory. It proves the need for proper organization of the resettlement of Russian industrialists to Novaya Zemlya. By the summer of 1880, the armed sailing schooner “Bakan” was transferred from the Baltic to guard the northern lands of Russia. Starting this year, regular steamship flights from Arkhangelsk to Malye Karmakuly are being established.

In 1881, the regulations on the colonization of Novaya Zemlya were approved. From September 1, 1882 to September 3, 1883, under the program of the First International Polar Year, continuous observations of meteorology and terrestrial magnetism were carried out in Malye Karmakuly.

Works polar station was led by the hydrograph, Lieutenant K.P. Andreev. At the end of April - beginning of May 1882, station employee doctor L.F. Grinevitsky, accompanied by the Nenets Khanets Vylka and Prokopiy Vylka, made the first research crossing of the Southern Island of Novaya Zemlya from Malye Karmakul to the eastern shore in 14 days (round trip).

In 1887, a new camp was founded in Pomorskaya Bay, Matochkin Shar Strait. A member of the Russian Geographical Society, K.D. Nosilov, stayed here for the winter and carried out regular meteorological observations. Hieromonk Father Jonah arrived in Malye Karmakuly with a psalm-reader. Before this, the diocesan spiritual authorities annually sent a priest to Novaya Zemlya in the summer to perform religious services and worship in a small chapel.

In 1888, Arkhangelsk Governor Prince N.D. Golitsyn arrived in Novaya Zemlya. In Arkhangelsk, a wooden church was built especially for Novaya Zemlya, which the governor delivered along with the iconostasis to Malye Karmakuly. That same year, Father Jonah made two trips. One to Matochkin Shar for the baptism of two residents. The second - to the eastern coast of the South Island, to the Kara Sea. Here he found and destroyed a Nenets wooden idol, personifying the patron god of deer hunting. Idols were discovered and destroyed by Father Jonah in other places on the South Island. Father Jonah began teaching Nenets children to read and write and their parents to teach prayers.

On September 18, 1888, the new church was consecrated. The church was equipped with magnificent icons, valuable church utensils and bells. In 1889, a monastic monastery was established in Small Karmakuly by the Nikolo-Karelian Monastery, with the permission of the Holy Synod. The task of the monks was not only to preach among the Nenets, but also to help change the existing way of life during the transition from nomadic to sedentary life. Jonah's father's many years of work bore fruit. The German colonists willingly visited the temple, and their children read and sang in the church during services.

In 1893, Russian industrialists Yakov Zapasov and Vasily Kirillov and their families moved from the mouth of the Pechora to Novaya Zemlya for permanent residence.

By 1894, the permanent population of Novaya Zemlya consisted of 10 Nenets families of 50 people. This year, Arkhangelsk Governor A.P. visited Novaya Zemlya. Engelhard, who on the Lomonosov steamer brought 8 more families among 37 people who expressed a desire to settle on the archipelago.

A disassembled six-room house was delivered on the ship for the school and residence of Jonah's father and the psalm-reader. This house was built in Malye Karmakuly. Another house was brought for the camp in Matochkin Shar. So, in Malye Karmakuly in 1894 there was a church building, a school, two houses in which the Nenets lived, a building in which a paramedic lived and a warehouse for supplies, a barn where spare building materials were stored, and in winter - a rescue boat. In Matochkino Shar there were three small houses in which the Nenets lived.

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The archipelago consists of two large islands - Northern and Southern, separated by a narrow strait (2-3 km) Matochkin Shar, and many relatively small ones, the largest of which is Mezhdusharsky Island. The northeastern tip of the North Island - Cape Vlissingsky - is the easternmost point of Europe. It stretches from southwest to northeast for 925 km. The northernmost point of Novaya Zemlya is the eastern island of the Bolshiye Oranskie Islands, the southernmost is the Pynin Islands of the Petukhovsky archipelago, the western is the nameless cape on the Gusinaya Zemlya peninsula of Yuzhny Island, the eastern is Cape Flissingsky of the Northern Islands. The area of ​​all islands is more than 83 thousand km?; The width of the North Island is up to 123 km, the South Island is up to 143 km. Kli...

The archipelago consists of two large islands - Northern and Southern, separated by a narrow strait (2-3 km) Matochkin Shar, and many relatively small ones, the largest of which is Mezhdusharsky Island. The northeastern tip of the North Island - Cape Vlissingsky - is the easternmost point of Europe. It stretches from southwest to northeast for 925 km. The northernmost point of Novaya Zemlya is the eastern island of the Bolshiye Oranskie Islands, the southernmost is the Pynin Islands of the Petukhovsky archipelago, the western is the nameless cape on the Gusinaya Zemlya peninsula of Yuzhny Island, the eastern is Cape Flissingsky of the Northern Islands. The area of ​​all islands is more than 83 thousand km?; The width of the North Island is up to 123 km, the South Island is up to 143 km. The climate is arctic and harsh. Winter is long and cold, with strong winds (the speed of katabatic (katabatic) winds reaches 40-50 m/s) and snowstorms, and therefore Novaya Zemlya is sometimes called the “Land of the Winds” in literature. Frosts reach?40°C. average temperature the warmest month is August - from 2.5 °C in the north to 6.5 °C in the south. In winter, the difference reaches 4.6°. The difference in temperature conditions between the coasts of the Barents and Kara Seas exceeds 5°. This temperature asymmetry is due to the difference in the ice regime of these seas. The archipelago itself has many small lakes; under the rays of the sun, the water temperature in the southern regions can reach 18 °C. About half the area of ​​the North Island is occupied by glaciers. On an area of ​​about 20,000 km there is a continuous ice cover, extending almost 400 km in length and up to 70-75 km in width. The ice thickness is over 300 m. In a number of places, the ice descends into fjords or breaks off into the open sea, forming ice barriers and giving rise to icebergs. The total glaciated area of ​​Novaya Zemlya is 29,767 km², of which about 92% is cover glaciation and 7.9% is mountain glaciers. On the South Island there are areas of arctic tundra. Plants characteristic of the sparse flora of the islands are creeping species, such as creeping willow (Salix polaris), saxifrage (Saxifraga oppositifolia), mountain lichen and others. The vegetation in the southern part is mostly dwarf birches, moss and low grass; in areas near rivers, lakes and bays, many mushrooms grow: milk mushrooms, honey mushrooms, etc. big lake- Goose. It is home to freshwater fish, in particular char. Common animals include arctic foxes, lemmings, partridges, and reindeer. Polar bears come to the southern regions with the onset of cold weather, posing a threat to local residents. Marine animals include harp seal, ringed seal, sea hare, walruses, and whales. On the islands of the archipelago you can find the largest bird colonies in the Russian Arctic. Guillemots, puffins, and seagulls live here. On September 17, 1954, a Soviet nuclear test site was opened on Novaya Zemlya with its center in Belushaya Guba. The training ground includes three sites: Black Lip - used mainly in 1955-1962. Matochkin Shar - underground tests in 1964-1990 D-II SIPNZ on the Sukhoi Nos Peninsula - ground tests 1957-1962. In addition, explosions were carried out at other points (the official territory of the test site occupied more than half of the entire area of ​​the island). From September 21, 1955 to October 24, 1990 (the official date of the announcement of the moratorium on nuclear testing), 135 nuclear explosions were carried out at the test site: 87 in the atmosphere (of which 84 were airborne, 1 ground-based, 2 surface-based), 3 underwater and 42 underground explosions. Among the experiments were very powerful megaton nuclear tests carried out in the atmosphere above the archipelago. On Novaya Zemlya in 1961, the most powerful explosion in the history of mankind was H-bomb- 58-megaton Tsar Bomba at the D-II “Dry Nose” site. The shock wave resulting from the explosion circled the globe three times, and on Dikson Island (800 kilometers) the windows in houses were broken by the blast wave.