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It happens that in the middle of summer or at the beginning - mid-autumn some fruit trees, berries or ornamental shrubs suddenly they bloom again. In such cases, gardeners worry: why is this happening and will it harm the plants?

Some media outlets cover this phenomenon as a kind of biological sensation, considering it a reaction of plants to climate warming. In fact, there is nothing unusual about this. Perennial scientific observations in collection gardens allowed the author to draw some conclusions about the reasons for such out-of-season flowering. Here's what they are.

The appearance of flowers at the very beginning of summer is a consequence of the delayed development of some flower buds, when this process was not completely completed last year (due to cold autumn, lack of certain nutrients, etc.) and ends only in the next season. In such cases, delayed flowering is observed only on perennial branches, and it is insignificant.

But more often the cause of re-blooming is accelerated growth and development of plants due to an early and warm spring, turning into a hot and sunny summer. In such cases, flowers appear in the middle - end of the growing season, mainly on strong growths of the current season, which is typical only for early-fruiting crops and varieties. This is due to the fact that the abundance of heat contributes to the accelerated formation of flower buds and they have time to summer period be formed even from the current year's growth.

The most formed of them bloom, which is why we see the same picture as in the photograph,

where the ripening pear fruits are adjacent to the flowers of the current year's growth. In some varieties, sometimes even ovaries form, but, of course, they do not have time to ripen (photo 2, see above).

As a rule, secondary flowering occurs in fruit crops does not occur in large numbers, only single inflorescences bloom. Not a large number of summer-autumn flowers usually do not affect either the future harvest or the upcoming overwintering of plants, unless, of course, the winter turns out to be extremely harsh. But if possible, it is better to cut off the emerging inflorescences of young trees in advance before they fully bloom, since the tree wastes time on the formation of such untimely flowers. nutrients.

Only in the southern regions does it happen that some tree species bloom quite strongly in the fall. Known examples abundant flowering, for example, chestnuts in very warm autumn conditions. Secondary flowering in such cases can lead to a general weakening of the plant and even death in winter period.

In the middle zone, the autumn blooming of buds and flowers of edible honeysuckle can be very dangerous. This Siberian and Far Eastern culture is characterized by high winter hardiness. But in conditions middle zone There is often warm pre-winter weather, which provokes premature emergence from dormancy in some varieties. And subsequent frosts lead to the death of the budding buds. Sometimes because of this, up to 30% of the potential harvest is lost, which is quite noticeable. Therefore, observe your plants yourself, and if this phenomenon repeats, it means that these varieties of honeysuckle are not suitable for your area and it is better to replace them with more adapted ones.

Spring is the most popular time for gardeners to plant vegetation. It is in spring that most plants are planted in open ground: from herbaceous annuals to trees and shrubs.

At what age can trees and shrubs be planted in spring?

IN spring period Young plants are usually planted and replanted. As a rule, these are seedlings aged 1-3 years. There is an opinion that the younger the seedling is, the faster it takes root.

If you intend to plant mature trees up to 2 m high on your site, then keep in mind that slow-growing species that are 12-20 years old are the easiest to transplant.

Fast-growing species can be replanted up to 10 years, and fruit trees - up to 8-16 years, depending on the type. For shrubs, the maximum age for transplantation also depends on the specific species.

As for large sizes from 2 m and above, then best time For their transplantation - frosty winter days. In winter, the ground is frozen and the earthen lump of the tree does not crumble when dug up, which makes it possible to replant large trees without significant damage to the root system.

Planting a new garden

Let's say you're about to pawn new garden and have already purchased seedlings. You have a planting plan (scheme), you know which plants you will plant in what place, how to position them relative to each other and relative to the sun. Remains last question: “When will it be possible to plant them in the ground?”

There are some differences in planting deciduous and coniferous species. In addition, the planting time depends on what kind of seedlings you purchased - with a closed or open root system.

Planting deciduous trees

For seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in containers or simply with a ball of earth, there are no strict time limits for planting. They can be planted from spring to autumn. The main thing is to provide them with proper care during the first time after planting.

However, the most optimal time for planting plants with a closed root system is the end of May - the beginning of June, when root growth is characterized by increased activity. By the way, they take root better than seedlings with bare roots, because... in this case, damage to the roots is practically excluded.

Bare-root plants can be planted while they are at a stage of relative dormancy, i.e. The buds have not yet swelled and started to grow. In time, this is approximately the end of April - beginning of May. If planting is carried out in the fall, then only after the trees have shed their leaves and nature begins to fall asleep.

It is advisable to plant seedlings with bare roots immediately after purchase. If you need to postpone this event for a while, you can temporarily bury them in some shaded place: place them in a shallow hole at a slight angle and carefully cover the roots with soil.

Planting conifers

Coniferous and evergreen plants tolerate transplantation worse than hardwoods. Therefore, it is recommended to start planting them at a later time. early dates, slightly earlier than deciduous ones.

Coniferous trees and shrubs should be replanted only with a closed root system. Be careful not to purchase conifer seedlings with bare roots, without an earthen clod.

In addition, it is safer to buy those seedlings that were originally grown in containers, and were not transplanted into them shortly before sale.

If coniferous seedlings are grown in open ground, then they are then transplanted into a container for subsequent transportation and sale. And in the process of all these actions, any mistakes can be made, which subsequently, after planting the plants on permanent place, can lead to certain problems. Especially if transportation is provided many kilometers from the excavation site.

The degree of risk can be reduced by direct transplanting conifers directly from soil to soil, and in the shortest possible time. The most optimal time for digging up coniferous seedlings from the ground is the period before the start of the growing season, i.e. in early spring. And the sooner you plant them in a permanent place, the greater the likelihood that the plants will successfully take root.

What else affects the disembarkation time?

If your region has harsh winters with little snow or your site has clayey, highly compacted soil, then spring planting of trees and shrubs is recommended.

Since if you plant in the fall, there is a risk that the plants will not have time to take root before winter. Moreover, heat-loving species should be planted only after late spring frosts have passed.

When to cook pits

Pits and soil for planting trees and shrubs can be prepared 2-3 weeks in advance. But it is best to prepare them in the fall, especially if the soil on your site is not light, i.e. clayey or loamy.

To do this, they dig holes required size, the excavated soil is mixed with sand if necessary and poured back into the holes. Over the winter, the soil in the pit will settle just before the required level. In late autumn they bring into the pits organic fertilizers, and in the spring they loosen the soil and apply mineral fertilizers.

The spring planting period is short

WITH spring planting Trees and bushes should not be tightened, because the time for its implementation is very limited. As soon as the ground thaws, plants can begin to be planted in the ground. But only until the moment when active bud growth begins. And this period lasts only about 3 weeks and in temperate latitudes it occurs in mid-April - early May.

Well, if you are suddenly late with spring planting, don’t worry, most plants can be planted both in spring and autumn. And, by the way, in the fall the period of possible planting lasts much longer - 1.5-2 months.

Spring pruning of trees stimulates vegetative growth and accelerates the ripening of branches. Arborists of the company " Industrial climbers» will professionally clean trees in early and late spring in Moscow and the Moscow region. We serve organizations and private clients. Branches are pruned on large trees growing in any conditions. We remove the cut pieces of wood and clean up the work site.

Why is spring pruning important?

The debate about when is the best time to prune trees seems to be forever. Spring cleaning is favored by the establishment and formation of young branches, as well as favorable weather conditions. This procedure is performed before the start of sap flow (until the buds swell). For fruit trees breaking this rule is unacceptable (otherwise the harvest will decrease). Ornamental species can be cleared after foliage has formed.

Having removed even a small branch, you must immediately cover the cut with garden varnish or other special means.

Trees such as maple, chestnut, mulberry, poplar can be safely cleaned after the end of sap flow. When injured, they have active oozing. Therefore, this procedure is not scary for them even in late spring or summer.

Among conifers, they tolerate haircuts well different kinds juniper, thuja, yew and spruce. Other types of evergreen large trees undergo light spring sanitary pruning. Their crown should be formed not by cutting branches, but by pinching young shoots. Moreover, working with conifers is quite difficult - the juicy, light green tips of the branches are quite fragile, easily bent and broken. And there is a high risk of breaking the top.

The slightest damage to evergreen plants, if the crown is formed incorrectly, will lead to disruption of the verticality of the tree. When two tops grow, one of them must be urgently removed.

In the spring fruit trees pruned annually. This stimulates productivity and helps prolong the life of the plant. However, garden trees should be pruned correctly - otherwise you can forget about large and abundant fruits.

Rules for spring pruning of trees

The most important rule for any (including spring) removal of branches is to use a rust-free tool. In this case, the tools must be well sharpened. Gardening tools should not tear the plant tissue, but carefully cut off the excess. You should work extremely carefully, without harming the remaining branches.

This is especially true when removing large branches. Before you prune them, you need to remove as many small branches growing on them as possible. And only then can you start cutting down a massive branch, cutting it off in parts. The edges of large cuts are carefully protected. Such an operation will promote the rapid growth of callus (connective tissue that promotes the healing of wood wounds).

I rarely overgrow cuts made not near a post. Therefore, such places, when pruning in the spring months, must be carefully treated with a wound-healing composition.

In addition to torn edges, the cuts should be without grooves. They will become a place for water to accumulate, which will lead to rotting of the wood. The putty used must be waterproof, sterile and antiseptic. Only in this case will the microorganisms and spores that get into the wound die and leave no chance for new pests to settle at the cut site.

Types of tree pruning in spring

In early spring, both heavy and light tree cleaning is performed. U flowering species strong promotes active flowering, weak produces many small flowers. During this period, the following types of branch removal are performed:

• Formative. Helps create a special crown shape. This creates a certain type of “green cap” with the required density of temporary and skeletal branches.
• Regulating (supporting). In addition to preserving the shape, such pruning supports certain parameters crowns according to the level of illumination.
• Rejuvenation. It is especially indicated for aging and old trees, since as a result of such pruning, the growth of young branches is activated.
• Recovery. Returns flowering, fruiting and growth to those affected by weather conditions and neglected, decrepit large trees.
• Sanitary. Makes it possible to remove damaged, intersecting, dead or diseased branches and helps increase leaf light.

In a metropolitan area, it is quite difficult to prune large trees in spring. Cramped conditions, a large number of people and vehicles make such work difficult and dangerous. Therefore, this work requires obtaining a felling ticket. The steeplejacks of the Industrial Climbers company not only quickly, professionally and reasonable price They will provide this service, but will also remove the trimmed material, as well as clean up the area. Contact us, we will trim the trees as needed!

Primroses are usually called snowdrops. But not everyone knows that the flowers on some trees bloom first.

Some specimens have to wait quite a long time for flowering, even though spring is in full swing. But which tree blooms earlier than others? More about this.

It has long been proven that primroses should be called not herbaceous plants that can be seen right under your feet in early spring, but trees.

The timing of flowering of each of the early species is still considered a controversial issue, but let’s consider the approximate order of this process:

A wolfberry shrub that blooms with beautiful and fragrant inflorescences of a pleasant pink color.

Immediately after the wolfberry forest comes the turn herbaceous plants, which also have their own timing and flowering sequence.

The flowering of the first trees has its own sequence, and in some cases this controversial issue, but still, as a rule, the place of primacy belongs to alder.

Alder and hazel - the main features of trees

Alder and hazel are the very first plants to gift nature with their flowering in spring days. Forests of mixed and broad-leaved types are considered typical for hazel.

In urban areas, you can find this shrub in parks, most of all in places where squirrels gather.

Alder is a rare occurrence for urban conditions and is most often found near rivers and other bodies of water.

The distinctive features of alder are as follows:

• gray bark;
• kidneys located on peculiar legs;
• small cones (no more than 2 cm in length).

Hazel is easier to distinguish from other trees. Main characteristic features:

• large shrub;
• young branches are covered with noticeable brown hair;
• some branches include several catkins at their terminal part.

In winter, both plants are in a state deepest sleep. The peculiarity is so early flowering of the presented trees is the formation of buds during the summer.

Therefore, even in winter you can see earrings of a dense structure on them, blooming with the onset of the first spring days.

At the first warming, the buds begin to gradually bloom and elongate. During this period, at the slightest touch to the inflorescences, you can see a small dusty cloud.

Pollination of these trees occurs due to the wind. In order for complete pollination to occur, a fruit-bearing plant must produce a large amount of pollen, which during the most active period forms a kind of greenish-yellow fog in the air.

Hazel and alder are the very first plants to bloom in the spring thanks to pre-formed buds.

Perennial fruit trees are characterized by continuous nutrition. Their roots, under certain soil conditions (temperature, humidity), are capable of growing and consuming nutrients all year round. Basic autumn root feeding of an orchard does not always provide the required concentrations and the required ratio of nutrients during the growing season. Therefore, spraying, fertilizing, and treating fruit trees, as a rule, is also carried out in the spring, when the plants’ nutrient reserves have already been significantly reduced, and the mineral elements available for consumption, the most important of which is nitrogen, are washed away by precipitation deep into the soil during November–March . Consequently, spring foliar, intrasoil fertilizing and treatment of fruit trees are most important.

Foliar treatments and spraying of fruit trees

First let's talk about foliar feeding and early spring treatments in the garden. Take a close look at your fruit trees. The buds have not yet woken up, but ants are already crawling along the branches. And if you look even more closely, you can see black dots near the kidneys. This is the future aphid, its eggs. The ants are waiting for her to hatch. As soon as the buds hatch, the aphids will hatch and begin to feed on the leaves and harm our garden.
Early spring spraying of fruit trees will help against such a scourge, which should be done as soon as the snow melts, before the buds open.
What to spray with? You can use Bordeaux mixture ( slaked lime+ copper sulfate). This long-known, popular means of pest control is still used today.
A more effective drug is a mixture of carbamide (urea) and copper sulfate. Typically, the complex of these components sold in stores is designed for 10 liters of water. It includes 700 g of carbamide (urea) and 50 g of copper sulfate. What is its advantage over Bordeaux mixture? It not only destroys pests, but at the same time serves as fertilizer for fruit trees.
Getting on the branches, trunk, carbamide (urea) through the bark, buds nourishes it and in early spring the tree receives very good help for spring growth in the form of nitrogen fertilizer.
I once read this information, and since then I have been using this drug in my dacha. I see how the trees are amicably and actively waking up from hibernation, but... with some delay. Now you will understand why this is also a plus.
Urea inhibits vegetation. The buds of the fruit trees that we sprayed will wake up 1-1.5 weeks later than the rest, untreated ones. Accordingly, the flowering period is also delayed. What is the advantage of late flowering, because we want, on the contrary, an early harvest? The point is that by doing this we reduce the risk of early flowering plants such as apricots and peaches being exposed to late spring frosts. Do not worry! Treated fruit trees will catch up, even surpass their untreated counterparts, but will be stronger and healthier.
When spraying fruit trees, it is also necessary to spray the ground and last year's leaves under the tree. By the way, the treated leaves will rot faster, since urea stimulates the decomposition of organic matter very well. In addition, spores of harmful fungi and pests under trees will be destroyed.
Urea with copper sulfate of the same concentration can be sprayed on the garden in the fall. The timing of autumn spraying is also important here - it is optimal to do this when, for example, from apple trees, from 20% to 40% of the foliage has fallen. Earlier spraying can provoke delayed growth of shoots, and this is fraught with severe freezing in winter. Therefore, in the fall, fruit trees and the ground under them are sprayed, when the leaves begin to fall. This also stimulates the decomposition of fallen leaves and destroys fungal spores. But we digress, because it’s spring
How to properly prepare a solution of urea with copper sulfate? First, pour urea into a clean bucket, fill it halfway with water, stir well until completely dissolved, add copper sulfate powder. The spray mixture is ready. Be careful. The mixture is toxic. Do not spray trees when it is windy. Use a respirator, mask, and goggles to protect your respiratory and vision organs from harmful effects.
The same treatment should be carried out on currant and gooseberry bushes. But, keep in mind that the gooseberry wakes up and produces leaves earlier than others, therefore, it must be processed before the buds peck.

Root feeding of fruit trees

Now let's talk about intrasoil spring fertilizing.
Let's start by determining how to properly maintain the trunk circle of a fruit tree? The soil around it should be loose - this provides air access to the roots. Most often, we dig up the ground near the trunk, trying to ensure that the dug area does not extend beyond the crown.
Nowadays, you can more often find gardens in which the space under and between garden trees- lawn. It is beautiful, aesthetically pleasing to the eye. Sow the land trunk circle lawn grass or clover, that is, grasses with a shallow root system that will help keep the soil in a loose, porous state. Under no circumstances should it be weeds. Root system weeds penetrate deep into the ground, taking away nutrients that could go to the fruits.
Feeding fruit trees, of course, is simplified if the ground near the trunks is clean, without grass or weeds. Then, usually when loosening or digging, a furrow remains along the perimeter of the crown. You put organic or mineral fertilizers there, dig them in and that’s it. Rain or watering will do the rest, dissolving nutrients and delivering them to the roots of the trees.
The first intrasoil fertilizing is carried out two to three weeks before mass flowering (March-April). For this purpose, fast-acting nitrogen fertilizers: from organic – bird droppings, from minerals - ammonium nitrate.
Under no circumstances should you place fertilizers in the immediate vicinity of the trunk, since the main load-bearing skeletal roots of the tree are located there; there is no point in feeding them. Suction, capillary roots are located along the perimeter of the branches. Such feeding can be done from the moment the buds open.
What to do if you are under a tree beautiful lawn? You don’t want to damage it with such fertilizing, do you? Take a crowbar or a sharpened stake, step back a meter from the trunk and pierce your lawn with the crowbar/stake to a depth of 5-7 cm around the perimeter of the tree trunk circle (do not forget about the restricted area directly near the trunk). Of course, you will have to make a lot of such holes near a mature tree.
A nutrient solution should be prepared in advance. We take a large container - it could be a tank, for example, a 200-liter barrel - pour 1-2 buckets of mullein into it (it’s better to take something that’s not quite fresh), or horse manure, or about a bucket chicken manure, you can add a couple of handfuls of complex fertilizers, an armful of cut grass, crusts of old bread, a half-liter jar of wood ash. Fill with water and leave for 12-15 days. For fertilizer we will use a diluted solution - 1-1.5 liters of concentrate per bucket of water.
The amount of watering will depend on the age of your fruit pet. For example, for a 10-15 year old tree, 5-7 buckets of nutrient solution are enough. The water will get into the holes you make in the lawn and will quickly be absorbed. Then pour everything on top clean water- you can use a hose - you will rinse lawn grass from fertilizers, the nutrient solution will not harm your lawn. It’s good to do this kind of fertilizing watering before the rain, then the work will be reduced - you won’t have to water from above with clean water - the rain will do it for you.
Such fertilizing (possibly in smaller, but not in greater concentration) can be done once a month until the end of July, that is, until the end of the development and growing season of trees. Before this period, we had fertilizing with a predominance of nitrogen. Starting from August, fertilizing of fruit trees should be dominated by phosphorus and potassium in order not to cause a new wave of growth and to increase the winter hardiness of your garden. Nitrogen should be completely excluded from fertilizer fertilizers. During this period, the intensive growth of the tree stops, the buds in the axils of the leaves pupate, and the growth points are completed.
Now about foliar treatments of fruit trees in late spring. It’s good to do them when the trees have already faded, maybe the ovary has already appeared, the leaves have reached their full size. In stores for gardeners there are complex fast-acting fertilizers (ballast-free nutrient salts), containing in addition to nitrogen, phosphorus, potassium and microelements. Dilute the preparations according to the instructions, spray the trees on the leaves.
Thus, processing, feeding fruit trees, and spraying them in early spring will save your garden not only from diseases and pests, but will also lay the foundation for the success of the future harvest.

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