Make a straight grinder out of an angle grinder. Homemade grinder from a grinder. What to make a grinder

When working with wooden surface coming to an end, the stage is coming final grinding. To perform grinding without burrs, scratches, beautifully round the sharp corners of any part, you must use a wood grinder. This tool will help you perform professional grinding even for a beginner who first took the device in his hands. If you wish, you can make a grinder yourself, using only improvised means.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both in design and purpose. Here are the main ones:

Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the tool simultaneously rotates around its axis and along some orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed with each pass more and more.

vibration model. Here, the working sole carries out reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
Angle grinder, which is popularly called the "grinder". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. Used for processing abrasive wheels required grit.
Belt sander, which is usually used for work on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt grinder with your own hands + ()

Making a belt sander yourself is not at all difficult, you must perform the following steps:

pick up suitable materials and details;
do solid foundation for fixing the tool;
install a suitable countertop;
to fix vertical racks with tensioner and drum;
mount the motor and drums;
fasten the sanding tape.

To process rather large parts and elements, it is necessary to make a large copy of a serial grinder. For example, if you take an electric motor with a power of 2 kW or more powerful with a rotor speed of 1500 rpm, then the gearbox can be omitted. The power of such an engine is quite enough to rotate a drum of about 20 cm in diameter and process parts of about 2 m.

You can also use an electric motor from an old washing machine. The bed in this case is made of a thick sheet of iron, having prepared a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine consists of 2 drums, one of which is fixed, and the second can be stretched and rotated on bearings around an axis. The basis for the machine is preferably made of metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums make on lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from sandpaper cloths with a width of about 20 cm and fixed on the frame. The larger the table dimensions, the larger parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Blueprints finished products can be found on the web.

We make a grinder from a grinder

Many may say that the “grinder” is the same as an angle grinder, but there are some subtleties hidden here. It should be borne in mind that the angle grinder has very high speeds and often quite a decent weight. To polish the surface with a grinder, you must have considerable experience in this matter and use special polishing discs and circles. The grinder has a much lower engine speed and weight. To work with a factory grinder, certain experience and skill are not required.

It is possible to independently make a good grinder from a grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by refining it electrical circuit, by mounting the regulator at a lower speed and by using special grinding attachments.

We make a grinder from a drill

To turn an ordinary, household electric drill into a grinder, you need to equip it with a special nozzle - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task.

The support or sanding pad is a plastic or rubber base with a glued sandpaper and a shank for clamping into a drill chuck. Flexible shaft cymbals are suitable for working with a loose drill, while rigid shafts are best used only for a well-fixed drill.

Sanding drums for household drill Structurally, they are an ordinary cylinder, a shank and sandpaper glued to the cylinder. When using drums, the working surface of the grinder is parallel to the axis of rotation.

Making an orbital sander

Currently, you can make an orbital machine with your own hands only from a broken orbital machine. This is due to the complex device for rotating the working disk, which is quite problematic to repeat on its own. It should also be borne in mind that a machine made by a specialized company will not cost too much, and it will be very difficult and time-consuming to make it yourself.

We make a grinder from a computer hard drive + ()

Any used hard drive can be turned into a miniature grinder. To do this, follow these steps:

completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
cut a working circle from sandpaper, make a hole for the spindle in the center of the circle;
stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
do protective screen, protecting the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use it.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

You will also be interested in:

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grinder functions.

The drill is good because it changed the nozzle and got a new tool. Now we will talk about using your impact drill as a powerful tool for processing various surfaces.

Rough surface finish.
To clean wooden and metal surfaces from paint, varnish, rust, a special nozzle is used on a drill, which is called a bowl-shaped twisted cord brush. It looks like this:

When using a cord brush, follow these guidelines:
- Clamp the cord brush securely in the chuck.
- Work the whole plane.
- Do not press the cord brush too hard on the surface.
- Do not exceed the speed indicated on the cord brush.
- Hold the drill securely and firmly in your hands.

Softer surface finish.
The same treatment, but softer, is applied with a different cord brush. This is how it looks installed in your drill:

Grinding surfaces with sandpaper.
If you need to sand a surface or part, for example, to remove splinters from wooden block, then, cutting out a circle of sandpaper, and putting it on a special device (grinding disc), you will do it with ease. This is how the fixture installed in the drill looks like:

However, this is not the end of the matter. If you don’t have time, or you don’t want to cut circles out of sandpaper yourself, and then put them on a fixture, you can buy self-adhesive sanding discs for a drill. True, in this case, you need to purchase another device called a “support grinding plate”. You take a plate, stick a sanding disc to it with Velcro and install it in a drill. Everything, you can start grinding:

The fantasy of the master is very rich. Below is a nozzle called "radial petal disc". Each petal of such a disc is made of sandpaper. Also applicable for grinding after installation in a drill:

Polishing surfaces with a sponge.
Together with the support plate discussed above, a polishing sponge is also used. The polishing sponge is attached to the base plate with Velcro. You install this nozzle in a drill. Everything, the polishing tool is ready. You take a polishing paste, apply it to the surface to be polished, then turn on the drill and start rubbing the polish with a sponge attached to the drill:

Knife sharpening.
In stores, you can also find a radial whetstone for a drill, which can be used, for example, for sharpening knives. This is how the grindstone looks like installed in a drill:

Screwdriver functions.

Classic screwdriver.
A soft start drill that can be successfully used as a screwdriver at slow speeds. For these purposes, a special “bit holder” nozzle is used on the drill. The holder is installed in the drill, and then the corresponding bit for the self-tapping screw is installed in it. In this way you can successfully spin fast a large number of self-tapping screws, which is of course important during repairs. If your drill has a reverse, then you can unscrew these screws. If your drill has a shock impulse moment, then it can unscrew even completely ancient self-tapping screws that have long been stuck in the wall, in which the slot for a screwdriver has been ground off. Therefore, I highly recommend looking for a drill with this additional feature.

Screwdriver for hard to reach places.
There are times when it is quite difficult to tighten or unscrew the screw (masters say “do not get close” to the screw).

Grinding accessories

True, this is more common in a car, but this can also be encountered with ordinary apartment repairs. So, for tightening and unscrewing screws in hard-to-reach places, a special nozzle is used on a drill, which is called a “flexible shaft extension”. One end of the flexible shaft is fixed in a drill, and the other is a magnetic holder for bits. You install the desired bit in the holder, and now, your tool for tightening screws in hard-to-reach places is ready:

Mixer functions.

When you really get involved in the renovation work, you will be faced with the fact that you will constantly need to knead something: wallpaper glue, cement-sand mixture (CPS), floor leveler, glue for gluing tiles, plaster, putty and more. Let me tell you right now, you can't do it by hand. Firstly, you will quickly get tired, and secondly, you will never be able to mix cement mortars with your hands to the state of thick, even sour cream! Therefore, a drill with a mixer comes to the rescue. The mixer looks like this: Installed in a drill, the mixer looks like this:

How to work with an impact drill

Before you start working with an impact drill, you need to set up the tool and prepare everything you need for work. Now I will talk about my drill, but for other drills the principle will be similar.

Setting the operating mode.
First, realize what kind of work you have to do. The impact drill has only 2 main modes - this is the drilling mode and the chiseling mode. In accordance with this, you need to set either a “drill” or a “hammer”. I note right away that you set the hammer only for the drill to work in the hammer drill mode. In other cases: drilling, grinding, tightening screws, mixing cement mortars is carried out when the switch is set to the “Drill” position.

Speed setting.
For different types works you will exhibit different speed. For example, if you need to drill holes in a metal plate that you want to use for a bracket, then it is better to turn on the 2nd speed. If you are going to knead cement mortar or want to tighten the screws, you must set the 1st speed. If you are going to work with a cord brush, then usually when buying nozzles, the recommended speed is indicated on the package. Thus, you can navigate in the choice of speed. If suddenly you don’t know at all what speed to set for a certain type of work, consult with professionals.

Reverse setting.
For all types of work, except for loosening screws, the direction of rotation of the drill chuck should be clockwise. To do this, the reverse switch must be set to the position where the arrow points to the cartridge.

Nozzle installation.
Depending on the nature of the work, you install the desired nozzle on the drill. I have told you about attachments throughout this book. So just take a look at the right section.

During work.
The drill is started by gently pressing the start switch. (See Impact Drill Construction). Moreover, the harder you press, the faster your drill accelerates. With the strongest pressure maximum speed will be the one you set when choosing the mode: "1st speed" or "2nd speed". Thus, by starting the switch and changing speeds, you achieve very wide range by speed. If you are drilling a surface for a long time and are tired of pressing the start switch, then for this purpose, press the "Lock Button" by releasing the start switch. In this option, the drill will continue to work. This is convenient, because saves your energy. You can disable this mode by pressing the start switch again.

Finally, if you are unscrewing the screw, then set the reverse switch to the position where the arrow points towards your hand. When the drill is smoothly turned on, the chuck should rotate counterclockwise.

Dangerous experiments

The impact drill will be your indispensable friend and assistant in a variety of jobs. But, nevertheless, there are things that are unacceptable in operation, and I will briefly talk about them now. We are talking about a circular saw blade, which, for some reason, some also want to install on a drill, thus constructing an electric saw:

Remember the rule: do not put a saw blade on a drill. First, because there is no protective cover. Secondly, there will be no necessary pressure on the material being processed. In the third, the drill will “walk” in the hands, and if the saw lies unevenly on the surface being sawn off, then either the disc will fly apart, or the drill will be pulled out of your hands, and no one knows where it will fly! Injury guaranteed! This is very dangerous and let's not experiment like that!

Finally

As you gain the necessary experience with an impact drill, you will likely want more. The first thing you will encounter is that you will need not only to make a hole in the wall for the dowel, but, for example, to completely drill a thick wall with a drill with a diameter of 10 or 13 for laying wires. It will be difficult to perform such work with an impact drill. Do not mock her, otherwise she will quickly fail you. In these cases, of course, use a perforator.

The second point is the speed of work during the repair. If, for example, you are expecting a global installation of drywall on all walls in the apartment, then of course, in addition to the impact drill, it is not a bad idea to purchase a screwdriver separately. The fact is that you will constantly hammer the wall and wrap screws. Moreover, you will alternate these two types of work so often for a long time that for a moment it will seem to you that you are only doing that you are changing the drill for a screwdriver. Therefore, having at hand a separately charged impact drill and a screwdriver, the efficiency of installing drywall will increase significantly. There is one more secret: a screwdriver weighs lighter than an impact drill and, of course, it is more convenient to wrap it.

However, if you are new to repair, I don’t want to burden you with expensive purchases right away and tell you purely my experience, which began with a hammer drill and I think that this sequence of mastering the tool is the most correct. You ask, or maybe just buy a hammer drill instead of an impact drill. I answer. A hammer drill is even heavier than an impact drill, and now it will not be at all convenient to use it as a screwdriver or surface grinder. Take it as a rule: a puncher is needed mainly for chiselling walls.

Voronov Sergey

Ending. Article start here

Nozzle for a drill for grinding

If you think that a drill can only drill holes in the walls, you are mistaken.

Hammer drill. Functions and setting

This tool is quite versatile thanks to great choice accessories to him. For example, it is worth buying a sanding attachment for a drill, and you can sand almost any surface.

Varieties of grinding nozzles for a drill

There are over a dozen different drill bits on the market. Each of them is a rod and a grinding material fixed on it. And depending on what kind of material it is (sandpaper, felt, abrasive element), you can grind the surface from one or another material.

Here is a list of the most popular grinding attachments:

plate - can be plastic, rubber, etc .;
cup - with brushes or soft filling;
disk - with soft or metal packing;
drum - with an emery tape, there may be several subspecies;
fan - with sandpaper elements;
end - in the form of cones, drums, washers, made of soft and hard materials;
soft polishing discs.

A wood sanding drill bit is usually a cup type bit with stiff metal bristles. The lighter ones are made of brass. Also, a similar nozzle on a drill is used for grinding metal and removing corrosion and corrosion from metal surfaces. paintwork.

For metal surfaces, drum nozzles are also used, on the side walls of which sandpaper is attached. These nozzles can process round holes and shaped parts made of wood and metal.

Fan nozzles for a drill are made in the form of a disc for grinding metal with pieces of abrasive material fixed on their edges. They are easy to handle hard-to-reach places and grind internal cavities in small holes.

A drill attachment for grinding walls with fine sandpaper can speed up the process of leveling walls after they have been plastered. This method is more budgetary compared to the purchase of a grinding machine. However, it has drawbacks - the drill overheats rather quickly, and there are fears that the nozzle may simply fly off in the process. In a word, grinding walls with a special device is more convenient and safer.

In addition to buying nozzles for a drill, you can make them yourself, thereby saving even more on working tools.

When work with a wooden surface comes to an end, the stage of finishing grinding begins. To perform grinding without burrs, scratches, beautifully round the sharp corners of any part, you must use a wood grinder. This tool will help you perform professional grinding even for a beginner who first took the device in his hands. If you wish, you can make a grinder yourself, using only improvised means.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both in design and purpose. Here are the main ones:

Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the tool simultaneously rotates around its axis and along some orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed with each pass more and more.

vibration model. Here, the working sole carries out reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
Angle grinder, which is popularly called the "grinder". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. For processing, abrasive wheels of the required grain size are used.
Belt sander, which is usually used for work on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt sander with your own hands + (Video)

Making a belt sander yourself is not at all difficult, you must perform the following steps:

select suitable materials and details;
make a reliable basis for fixing the tool;
install a suitable countertop;
fix vertical racks with a tensioner and a drum;
mount the motor and drums;
fasten the sanding tape.

You can also use an electric motor from an old washing machine. The bed in this case is made of a thick sheet of iron, having prepared a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine consists of 2 drums, one of which is fixed, and the second can be stretched and rotated on bearings around an axis. The basis for the machine is preferably made of metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums are made on a lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from sandpaper cloths with a width of about 20 cm and fixed on the frame. The larger the table dimensions, the larger parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Drawings of finished products can be found online.

https://youtu.be/vDs1gBM_MW4

We make a grinder from a grinder

It is possible to independently make a good grinder out of a grinder, which is not inferior in its parameters to a factory machine, only by finalizing its electrical circuit, by mounting the regulator at lower speeds and by using special grinding nozzles.

We make a grinder from a drill

To turn an ordinary, household electric drill into a grinder, you need to equip it with a special nozzle - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task.

The support or grinding plate is a plastic or rubber base with glued sandpaper and a shank for clamping into a drill chuck. Flexible shaft cymbals are suitable for working with a loose drill, while rigid shafts are best used only for a well-fixed drill.

Grinding drums for a household drill are structurally a regular cylinder, a shank and sandpaper glued to the cylinder. When using drums, the working surface of the grinder is parallel to the axis of rotation.

Making an orbital sander

We make a grinder from a computer hard drive + (Video)

Any used hard drive can be turned into a miniature grinder. To do this, follow these steps:

completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
cut a working circle from sandpaper, make a hole for the spindle in the center of the circle;
stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
make a protective screen that protects the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use it.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

instrument-blog.ru

Homemade grinder from a grinder.

Hello, dear readers of the ForgeMika.com blog.

A grinder from a grinder, especially a belt type, with the current supply of the tool market, at first glance, looks about the same as the invention of a bicycle. However, if we weigh some facts, then it may be worth spending your time and making the necessary efforts on this. Yes, the market is really crowded. But it is overflowing, for the most part, with a “disposable” tool, which, it seems, is inexpensive to buy, and it’s not a pity to throw it away in the event of a breakdown. It's just a pity to spend money on the same tool again. However, a branded, high-quality analogue has always distinguished and distinguishes a completely different price level. It is in this situation that many masters begin to think about how to spend half a day of working time to expand the capabilities of an existing tool.

For example, if desired, an angle grinder can be “grafted” with the ability of a belt grinder. So, the name of a quality grinder, it is not always necessary to spend money on a belt grinder of identical quality. You can, after listening to our recommendations, save several thousand hryvnias by expanding the capabilities of the grinder you already have.

The main structural elements of a belt grinder

The main components of belt grinders are, in addition to, of course, the engine, rotating elements. There are two of them in the device of each such machine, they are needed for installing and tensioning the belt abrasive element and its rotation during processing operations. Structurally, they are similar, but have certain differences in the device. It will be correct to make them from aluminum alloy. The choice of this type of material for the manufacture of these parts causes a small specific gravity this material. The lightweight rotating element provides for low inertial loads on the drive of the machine, benefit from tool storage (no corrosion phenomena on rollers) and other advantages. That is, if you have in your arsenal a long enough piece of this material in the form of a thick-walled pipe, then excellent. A solid cylindrical billet of a sufficiently large diameter is also suitable.

What diameter is considered large enough? You can navigate here by the outer diameter of the bearings at your fingertips that you are going to use to make rollers. So that after you bore the bearing seats, the wall thickness of the roller remains at least 5 mm, ideally 8 mm. There will be more, no big deal. However, all this implies that the outer surface of this roller must already be turned on the machine to give it a perfectly even cylindrical shape. The length of the roller can be selected based on the width of a standard belt abrasive element (and it is usually 75 mm), that is, it is worth taking a size of 77 - 80 mm. Just in case, we recall that the seating areas for bearings are prepared with a slight interference relative to the outer diameter of the bearing.

Roller design

We have already mentioned that the rollers are structurally different. Let us describe their construction in more detail. Let's start with the rear roller, it's easier. It is a cylindrical hollow body with two symmetrical sections on both sides (at the bases of the cylinder). These sections are just intended for landing on them the outer ring of our bearings. The front, leading roller is more complicated. It will be fixed on an axis having a cantilever type of fastening, and a special sleeve is inserted inside it, which will be fixedly mounted on a movable base, and the roller rotates freely around the sleeve. A bearing is placed inside this bushing, and the bushing serves as the driving part of the mechanism by which the abrasive belt is installed. The axes for the rollers can be any steel blanks, the outer diameter of which is bored out for the free installation of bearings on them. And at one end of the axle, a thread is cut for the lock nut.

Getting started with the manufacture of the installation mechanism for the abrasive belt

The bushing shown above is part of complex design carrier, which is a device consisting of two rectangular steel strips connected by welding at a right angle. The width of the strip should slightly exceed the outer diameter of the sleeve for the convenience of its attachment to the strip. The thickness of the strip is at least 6 mm, the structure will be load-bearing, so the material must provide sufficient rigidity. The carrier, in addition to the strip with the bushing, includes a second perpendicular section with two tubular guides symmetrically located relative to the middle of this element. Cylindrical push rods will go inside the tubular guides. The diameters of the bars and guides must be selected in such a way that the bars inside the nozzles are free to move, but without appreciable backlash.

The rods are inserted at one end into the branch pipe, the other ends are attached to the support of the second roller. The support of the second roller is a U-shaped frame made from the same strip. The parallel sides of this frame are lugs into which the roller axle is inserted. The length of the lugs must exceed the radius of the roller in order to allow it to rotate freely on the axle. The length of the middle section of the frame should also be somewhat greater than the length of the roller plus the thickness of the strip, so as not to interfere with the rotational movement of the roller. The carrier and the frame of the rear roller are connected to each other by means of a pair of “guide pipes - rods” and spiral-type springs installed so as to squeeze the carrier from the frame, thereby providing tension to the belt abrasive. The length of the bar is selected so that when the springs are fully extended, the bar does not jump out of the guide pipes, and remains vacant lot a bar 10 - 15 mm long.

Tension control

This mechanism should be controlled with the help of a lever, which, by compressing the springs, will tighten the frame and carrier. When the lever is released, the springs, unclenching the frame and carrier, will stretch the installed tape. In order to install such a lever, we provide a hole between the nozzles through which a short traction chain element will freely move, attached with one end in the middle between the bars on the frame, and with the other end on the lever, by pulling which we compress the springs. The chain pull is attached in the middle of the lever, which with its free end extends beyond the mechanism, and the second end is attached to a bolt (screw), which is the axis of rotation of the lever and is installed on the base of the bottom plate. The length of the free end of the mechanism control lever is determined in place, so that the device is easy to use, and at the same time the lever does not interfere, clinging to objects from the side.

A linear dimensions The components that make up this mechanism, as well as the overall dimensions of the entire mechanism, are determined by the length of the applied tape abrasive element. So, in fact, it is accepted in any models of this type of grinders.

bottom plate

This detail is necessary in order for the working part of the abrasive to move along a flat surface when processing flat sanded surfaces. The material for its manufacture will also be useful plate of of stainless steel sufficient thickness (approximately 5-6 mm). The basis for fastening this plate should be another plate (of ordinary steel), which is fixedly (by welding) attached to the carrier in such a way that the bottom plate adjacent to it (the one made of aluminum or stainless steel) together with the lower points of the rollers form an even horizontal plane. The front and back face of the bottom plate must be cleaned so that the abrasive material is not damaged when moving along it. To do this, they are ground to the maximum possible rounded state from the ends.

The plates are fixed to each other by means of the use of countersunk screws that are completely immersed inside the outer element. And in the base it will be necessary to provide for the presence of threaded holes. To do this, we recommend making the base of a sufficiently thick material (minimum 6 mm). The outer plate after fastening with screws must be ground and even polished so that its condition is perfectly smooth. fasteners two is enough, but if there is a desire, more can be provided. And, of course, you must not forget to provide a screw for fastening the control lever of the installation mechanism abrasive belt.

Grinding machine drive

A roller with an axle of a cantilever type, located on the carrier, is our leader. Therefore, it is necessary to provide a driving device for it. If for some reason you have in your arsenal all the necessary gear elements of a suitable size for this purpose, then it will be great if you use it. Having fixed the gear wheel on the axis of the front roller, and the gear on the output shaft of the angle grinder. But it is, so to speak, special case and rarely seen. Firstly, you need to have a set of such parts, secondly, provide a protective cover for gearing, and thirdly, take care of lubrication and other working moments.

It is much easier to build a belt drive as a drive mechanism. The drive belt can come from an old belt sander, from an old overlocker, from any other tool in which such a transmission is provided. If so old tool available, then you can use not only the flexible element, but also the pulleys, adapting them to your grinder. The driven wheel is fixed on the axis of the front roller, with the necessary alignment of both rotation bodies.

Well, the drive pulley must be installed on the grinder spindle. The ideal installation option would be to cut a "left" thread in this pulley, similar to the external thread on the grinder's output shaft. If not technical capabilities cut it, you can use the flats, recesses under wrench on the spindle at the grinder. Usually, a support element is installed on these recesses under cutting tool. It's easy to remove and the flats on the spindle can be machined into the lugs on your drive pulley.

Drive Mounting Tools

We agreed in advance that our grinder will be driven by an angle grinder, so you will need to provide a base for it to mount. Unfortunately, general recommendations we cannot provide for all installation cases, since, in each specific case, there may be different models of angle grinders, different size And different type. Therefore, here you will have to independently provide the necessary fasteners in order to withstand the required level of belt tension and the desired center distance between the pulleys. The only recommendation that may be relevant here and have a universal character is the recommendation to use the threaded holes on the body of the grinder (under the front handle) to install the tool. There are at least two such holes on any model. And it happens that there are as many as three of them, and this can greatly facilitate your task.

Tension mechanism for abrasive

For different models of belt grinders, this additional tension mechanism may have a different design. IN different models additional belt tension is achieved in different ways by moving the drive roller. We recommend more simple modification this fixture. On the frame with the driven roller, it is necessary to provide a screw-type pusher for the roller axis. To do this, you need to expand one of the holes on the eyes, making it from a round oval. And on the same eye, weld a nut into which the threaded pusher will be screwed. The pusher, moving within the threaded nut, abuts against the roller axis and pushes the axle together with the roller, tensioning the abrasive belt, providing the desired level of tension. It is necessary to equip with such a pusher the eye in which there will be an end of the axis that does not have a threaded element.

Grinder from grinder, video

forgemika.com

Angle grinder - homemade fixtures

An angle grinder, also known as a grinder, is an indispensable tool in the arsenal of any owner, used for cutting, grinding and polishing metal and wood. Significantly expand functionality this tool possible with the help homemade devices which we will discuss in this article.

Bulgarian

The publication will consider a home-made frame for the grinder, which makes it possible to turn the angle grinder into a full-fledged cutting machine from the grinder, as well as other simple designs that can be made at home.

We modernize the grinder with our own hands - we make a cutting machine

The key advantage of an angle grinder is its mobility - it is a compact tool with an extremely wide range of applications. However, it also has disadvantages, among which are difficulties in processing loose parts, during cutting of which strong vibration appears (it can cause destruction of the abrasive disc on high speed revolutions) and the difficulty of meeting the required dimensions of the workpieces when cutting several structures of identical length.

The above disadvantages do not appear when the angle grinder is equipped with a cutting machine, which significantly increases the convenience of cutting both wood and metal. The manufacturer of such a machine for a grinder can be done independently, you will need:

profile square pipe 40*40 and 20*20 mm;
rectangular profile 40*20;
metal corner 32 mm;
bearings with a diameter of 32 mm;
studs M12;

Assembled homemade machine for a grinder it is a square frame made of a 40 * 40 mm profile, reinforced with cross bars. A rocker arm is fixed on the frame - a mechanism holding the angle grinder, which allows vertical plane change the position of the tool.

A homemade stand for a grinder is made according to the following algorithm:

The resulting homemade frame for the grinder is quite simple to operate. You need to install the angle grinder in the seat, position yourself to the right of the tool, put the workpiece on the supporting frame and lower the adjusting lever with your right hand. The cut itself is made in the space between the transverse jumpers of the frame.

Circular saw from grinder

It is even easier to make a circular saw out of an angle grinder than a cutting machine, since there is no need to perform a large number of welding work. You will need the following materials:

old table;
metal corner;
construction clamps or corner;
screws, nuts.

Circular machine from angle grinder

We note right away that a low-speed angle grinder is needed here (within 4-5 thousand rpm) or with speed control, since units with high speeds are not suitable for cutting wood - due to rotation, the workpiece will be torn off from circular saw which endangers the machine operator. For sawing wood, it makes sense to use an angle grinder with a disc with a diameter of 150 or 180 mm.

The industry produces several types of machines that differ both in design and purpose. Here are the main ones:

Eccentric or orbital, in this case the sole of the tool simultaneously rotates around its axis and along some orbit. It turns out that each time it passes in a slightly different place, so scratches and burrs are rubbed with each pass more and more.

vibration model. Here, the working sole carries out reciprocating movements with a frequency of about 20,000 movements per minute. It is due to these movements that grinding occurs.
Angle grinder, which is popularly called the "grinder". With the help of this tool, rough processing of parts, large logs, etc. is carried out. For processing, abrasive wheels of the required grain size are used.
Belt sander, which is usually used for work on large surfaces. Structurally, it consists of rollers driven by an electric motor, on which an emery tape is put on.

Making a belt sander with your own hands + (Video)

Making a belt sander yourself is not at all difficult, you must perform the following steps:

select suitable materials and details;
make a reliable basis for fixing the tool;
install a suitable countertop;
fix vertical racks with a tensioner and a drum;
mount the motor and drums;
fasten the sanding tape.

You can also use an electric motor from an old washing machine. The bed in this case is made of a thick sheet of iron, having prepared a place for installing the motor and carefully fixing it with bolts to eliminate vibration. The design of such a machine consists of 2 drums, one of which is fixed, and the second can be stretched and rotated on bearings around an axis. The basis for the machine is preferably made of metal or several sheets of thick plywood. Drums are made on a lathe from chipboard. The tape is cut from sandpaper cloths with a width of about 20 cm and fixed on the frame. The larger the table dimensions, the larger parts can be stacked and processed in the future. Drawings of finished products can be found online.

https://youtu.be/vDs1gBM_MW4

We make a grinder from a grinder

We make a grinder from a drill

To turn an ordinary, household electric drill into a grinder, you need to equip it with a special nozzle - a working drum or a special support plate, depending on the task.

Making an orbital sander

We make a grinder from a computer hard drive + (Video)

Any used hard drive can be turned into a miniature grinder. To do this, follow these steps:

completely disassemble the hard drive and remove from the case everything that is located to the left of the magnetic disks;
cut a working circle from sandpaper, make a hole for the spindle in the center of the circle;
stick several strips of double-sided tape on the rotating disk of the hard drive and fix sandpaper on it;
make a protective screen that protects the eyes from the possible departure of the manufactured emery disc;
connect the finished structure to the power supply from the computer and use it.

Of course, this design does not have high power, but it is quite possible to sharpen a small knife or scissors.

When working with wood, the final stage of processing the material will be grinding. A grinder will help you with this. There are many different models on the market, but if your budget is bursting at the seams, you can make such a machine yourself.

How to make a grinder

You can make a simple machine from your PC hard drive. To do this, you will need the hard drive itself, an abrasive, a PC power supply. It will be designed to work with small details. When disassembling the disc, stick the abrasive on a rotating plane. After that, the structure must be connected to a power supply unit (power supply), and then the entire structure must be fixed on the working plane of the table, provided with a speed controller and a switch.

DIY wood grinder

Grinding machines are represented by the following types:

eccentric or orbital;
vibration;
corner;
tape.

When making a machine, you will need:

electric motor;
power supply.

The power unit must be taken from household appliances, for example, from a fan, the power supply is computer, the battery is household. As a basis for the above elements, a wooden board is suitable, on which a battery with an electric motor should be fixed with screws. The start button must be attached to the base with self-tapping screws. The wire strands are fixed with staples of an industrial stapler.
The working part of the tool is grinding wheel which can be purchased independently. The abrasive disc will be driven by an electric motor using two bushings.
You can strengthen the design of the device if you take the motor from the washing machine as the engine. In addition to polishing discs, in this case, grinding and abrasive discs can be installed on the tool.

Homemade belt sander

An abrasive belt acts as a working element in this type of device. A do-it-yourself machine will be stationary, and have large dimensions compared to an industrial design. For the manufacture of a sample, it is best to use a power unit with a power of 2–3 kW and a rotor speed of 1500 rpm.
The radius of the drive drum directly affects the speed of the belt. The larger it is, the higher the speed of the tape. A self-made design will not allow you to adjust the speed of the tape, however, you can influence the tension force by shifting the fixed axis of the tension shaft mounted on the motor shaft relative to the desktop.
The workbench for the grinder must be made of wood or metal. A sander belt can be made from abrasive paper available at a hardware store.
The working element, which is the emery belt, is set in motion with the help of a transmission and drums by a power unit. Shafts are divided into driving and driven. Drums can be made using chipboard sheets, turning them on a lathe so that the result is disks about 20 cm in diameter. When processing, one thing should be taken into account: the edges of the shafts must have a larger diameter, compared to central part, to automatically hold the tape. The dimensions of the rack will depend on the width of the tape and the distance between the shafts. At the location of the shafts in the canvas, it is necessary to make slots for the smooth passage of the tape.

How to make a mini grinder with your own hands

First you need to find foam to prepare the base for the device. After that, you need to cut a hole for installing a switch in it. Then you will need electrical tape and a power source, for example, the well-known Kron battery. We fasten the battery (Krona) to the foam base with electrical tape. We take a stopper from under champagne and a core of the pen. Cut the rod to desired length, after that we put the handle rod on the cork with a blunt end and insert the tip of the rod into the hole for the motor shaft. After that, you need to cut a strip of abrasive tape to fit the size of the cork with scissors. After you cut the tape, it should be glued to the cork around the circumference. This cork construction will be working part cars. We carefully inspect all the wires and connect them with twists, isolate the connections with electrical tape. We try to start the resulting device. Now you have your own mini car. Such a device is useful for performing simple small jobs for which a conventional grinder would be too large and inconvenient. If you are an observant and patient, as well as a diligent person, it is not difficult to make a grinder with your own hands. To do this, you only need dexterous hands and a little patience.

Minor scratches or chips on the car body do not need to be fixed in specialized workshops, as well as buying paints and putties in stores. Works great for small bumps and bumps. Such an action will correct the shortcomings and save a significant part of the budget. All motorists have a lot of questions about polishing technologies, related products for polishing, cost, grinding machines and many others. The main one is the possibility of correct and high-quality polishing of a car in "home" conditions.

Is the game worth the candle?

Environment, trips out of town and not always high quality pavement lead to the appearance of cracks, chips and scratches on the body and bumpers. Exposure to direct sunlight exposes the paint to fading, resulting in the need to renew or repair the vehicle's paintwork.

Opinions on polishing and minor repairs a huge number, and some believe that polishing a car with a grinder can lead to even worse results. This opinion can be called erroneous because the correct and accurate approach to work and the choice of the right technology will allow you to get an excellent result.

When choosing the right materials even the most neglected car can be restored to its original appearance. Initially, you need to determine the scope of work and choose the appropriate paste and polish, among which there are several types:

abrasive and non-abrasive - this applies to paste and polish;
silicone polishes;
polishes-restorers.

Pastes are marked, for abrasives the designations J3, J6, J7, J10 and M3 are used. Polishing pastes are in demand. It is worth remembering that aerosol can for polishing is designed to give the final look and shine.

When preparing the body, fine sandpaper P 2000 is used. It clogs quickly, so it is often necessary to moisten the surface with water. Such fine sandpaper will get rid of deep scratches and chipped paint.

Abrasive polishes are used to remove scuffs and scratches from the car paintwork. Processing with such a tool removes a slight layer of varnish, after which it will need to be restored. At the next stage of work, a protective silicone polish is applied. It fills the smallest cracks, micro-scratches and adds shine.

In order not to perform the entire range of work manually, the car is processed by a grinder. When working, special circles are used. Machines for grinding choose eccentric with high beat speeds. Better buy professional tool, for example, brands such as Makita or Bosch.

For the average motorist

In case of minor damage, an ordinary grinder or hand drill. Circles for processing are placed woolen or foam rubber. The tool must be with a speed control to avoid unnecessary scratches and scuffs. The desired type of paste is applied to the circle and a little to the work area.

Polishing should be crosswise, gradually moving vertically and horizontally. This will allow you to evenly apply the paste and treat the surface with high quality, the main thing is that the paste does not dry out during operation. Polishing is carried out until the desired shine appears. All excess paste is wiped off with a soft cloth or napkin.

After the area is polished, silicone paste is applied and the same actions are carried out with a softer circle. The whole job takes several hours. final stage will be the application of a protective layer with a soft cloth or a special mitt. The layer should be distributed evenly so that there is no excess polishing, all streaks are removed with a napkin.

Advantages of the method

Such a low-cost and accessible method for every motorist will allow not only to carry out adjustments for minor damage, but also to give the car a well-groomed appearance. The technology is simple, and doing all the work yourself is not difficult. Thus, it is possible to perfect the headlights, bumper and glass.

When processing headlights, silicone polishes should not be used. In some cases, it may be necessary to treat the headlight glass with P 600-800 sandpaper, it all depends on their initial condition.

About prices

If we calculate the approximate cost of the entire volume of work, then the automobile centers for polishing will announce the price of 150 USD. The price includes polishing with all the tools offered by the center. It is not always possible to be sure of an excellent result by giving the car into the wrong hands. Moreover, many of these services do not bear responsibility.

Do-it-yourself work is much cheaper. On average, a can of polishing paste in an authorized store will cost over $15. One can is enough for five cars. will cost 5 c.u. If there is no grinder or polishing machine, you can borrow it from friends or rent, in extreme cases, a drill with the ability to adjust the speed is suitable. As a result, the total amount will be no more than 30 USD. In addition to significant savings, there will be confidence in high-quality work done by one's own hands.

Why polish?

Polishing may be needed not only for minor damage or scratches. With the help of abrasive pastes and means for it is possible to keep it almost in its original form. Dashboard, headlights and bumper polishing will keep in perfect condition. The main thing is to choose desired view funds for a particular job.

Abrasives will gradually remove top coats of varnish and paint, constant buffing will backfire.
If there is no need to treat the car body, you do not need to abuse abrasive polishing. This can lead to the complete removal of the paintwork, down to the metal, in which case more expensive procedures for restoring the paint, applying varnish and final polishing will be required.