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Suspended design – universal and practical option ceiling finishing. It can be installed in any room, regardless of the humidity level. Creativity to the installation of a suspended ceiling and construction experience makes it possible to create a multi-level structure of an original shape. But even an ordinary single-level frame covered with plasterboard hides defects in the main ceiling, allows you to hide communications, wiring and ventilation elements, and place lamps. Reducing the ceiling height reduces heating costs, and a layer of insulation keeps the room warm.

If you have the skills construction work, then you’ll quickly figure out how to make a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands. Beginners will have a more difficult time in this matter, but desire and a good assistant will allow them to cope with the task.

What is needed to install a suspended ceiling? This:

• powerful drill or hammer drill;
• laser or water level;
• screwdriver;
• metal scissors;
• roulette;
• chop cord;
• assembly knife.

Materials for installation of the structure

The basis of suspended ceilings is a metal, less often wooden, frame. To assemble it you need to purchase:

• Guide galvanized steel profile UD, having a length of 3 and 4 m, metal thickness up to 0.6 mm.
• Ceiling-rack supporting profile CD, produced in lengths of 3 and 4 m, its width is 6 cm, the thickness of the steel base is 0.4 – 0.6 mm.
• Connectors for CD profiles: corner, longitudinal, single-level (crab), direct suspension, self-tapping screws and dowels.
• Drywall sheets. The type of material – regular or moisture-resistant, is selected depending on the purpose of the room and the level of humidity in it.

Note! Professional installers recommend purchasing all materials for the frame from one manufacturer, then they will fit optimally in size.

Marking

Installation of the structure begins with marking the walls and ceiling. In one of the corners, mark the first point, lowering it by the size of the future ceiling. Using a water level, marks are made on the opposite wall. This instrument consists of two vessels filled with water and connected by a tube. It accurately shows the horizontal plane; just lift its parts and set the same water level according to the drawn scale. The marks are transferred along it to the wall and connected with a tapping cord. An accurately drawn horizontal line will allow you to correctly screw the profile and avoid difficulties with the installation of the structure.

Note! On the ceiling, it is necessary to determine the attachment points of the suspensions and the ceiling profile. Lines are marked at a distance of 60 cm; for the first profile, 25 cm is set aside from the wall.

The guide profile is attached along the drawn strip with dowels. Holes for them are punched with a hammer drill in the walls and in the metal profile. The fastening pitch is 30 cm, decreasing to 10 cm in the corners. A galvanized guide profile is installed on all walls. The ceiling profile will be inserted into it.

Direct hangers are attached at the intersection of lines marking the location of the CD profile. They are screwed with two or three dowels, it depends on the expected load.

The perforated sides bend at an angle of 90 degrees. The CD profile is inserted into opposite guide profiles UD. If the smallest side of the room exceeds 4 m, then the supporting profile is spliced ​​with longitudinal connectors; a suspension can be installed in this place to enhance reliability. IN small spaces the profile must be cut into pieces. It is easy to cut with special metal scissors. To align all the CDs on the same plane, a strong thread is pulled underneath them as a guide. The profile is screwed to the hangers on both sides with self-tapping screws. The remaining parts of the plates are bent to the sides.

After fixing all the hangers, the transverse parts of the frame are installed. To do this, you will need “crab” connectors, which snap onto the CD profile at a distance of 50 cm from one another. The antennae of the connector are bent on the longitudinal profile and transverse parts, the connection is made with self-tapping screws. The jumpers must be attached to the main profile at right angles. After tightening all connections with self-tapping screws, we obtain a finished frame with a cellular structure, to which sheets of drywall can be screwed.

Cladding of the ceiling structure

The plasterboard ceiling structure is not designed to support additional weight. Heavy lamps or air conditioners cannot be attached to it. Before sewing up the ceiling, it is necessary to make a chandelier mount, which is installed on ceiling. At this stage, insulation is laid and electrical wiring for spotlights is laid.

Sheets of plasterboard are laid so that their edge is located in the center of the supporting profile CD. The fastening of the canvas to the frame should occur along the entire perimeter and in the middle, where the metal profile passes. Adjacent sheets divide the shelf of the supporting profile in half. The work is carried out using a screwdriver, screwing in the screws at a distance of 20–25 cm from each other. To ensure that the self-tapping screw enters to the same depth, not exceeding 1 mm, you need to install a limiter attachment on the tool. In pieces the right size The drywall is cut with a mounting knife.

After fixing all the drywall sheets, cut out holes for the lamps. Perfect round shape obtained when working with a special attachment on a drill. The next step in ceiling cladding is priming the surface. Then the putty begins. Finishing begins at the joints and places where screws are screwed in; a mesh is applied to the layer of putty to secure the seams more firmly. After allowing the applied layer to dry, putty the entire ceiling. The finished surface is cleaned sandpaper. Suspended ceiling ready for final decoration.

Note! For a room with normal humidity They use ordinary drywall, the use of moisture-resistant one will not give any advantages; on the contrary, it will make the structure heavier.

Installation of a suspended structure requires accuracy, strict measurements and adherence to technology. Acting according to the plan and taking responsibility for the reliability of fastening and compliance the required level, you will assemble an excellent suspended ceiling.

We would also like to invite you to read articles that describe the technology for manufacturing plasterboard ceilings.

Suspended plasterboard ceilings can be found in many houses and apartments today. We will talk about how to install such a structure with your own hands in this article.

First of all, you need to draw a drawing of the frame on paper or on the wall, with a separate frame, and a separate layout of the gypsum board sheets. Consider the arrangement of the sheets - along or across, this will help save materials. In the drawing you can determine the installation locations of the hangers so that they do not fall on the junction of the main and load-bearing profiles.

For marking we use a level or a cutting cord.

Frame assembly

We fix the guide profile 28/27 on the walls along the perimeter. The profile is made of galvanized steel with a thickness of 0.6 mm. We glue sealing tape to the base of the profile. It, being an element of sound insulation, dampens vibrations and to some extent protects plasterboard sheathing from cracks.

The profile fixation step is 50 centimeters, i.e. One profile 3 m long requires 6 dowels.

Drywall is not screwed to the guide profile!

The main profiles will come from the window. Let's place all the profiles on the ceiling and connect them at the same level.

We fix the hangers starting from the corner and the window. The first line of suspensions is fixed at a distance of 10 cm from the window, then 40 cm and then a step of 50 cm. The longitudinal pitch of the profile will be 120 cm, the width of the plasterboard sheet.

The length of a standard profile is almost always less than the length of the ceiling, so we use extensions.

We fix the connector (or simply “crab”) at a distance of 120 cm from the wall.

We install the supporting ceiling profile 60\27 in increments of 50 cm, but we fix the supporting profile closest to the wall with a distance of 10 cm, the next one at a distance of 40 cm, and all the rest - 50 cm. The edge of the supporting profile, which is inserted into the guide profile, is NOT fixed .

At this stage it is very important to attach a diagram of the lamps and make sure that the lamps do not fall on the frame. After all, a suspended ceiling is rarely without lamps.

Main mistakes:

• using the wrong profiles;
• use plasterboard with a thickness of 9.5 mm;
• The suspended ceiling frame is assembled according to the principle “the narrower, the stronger,” i.e. take a step between the main profile over the entire surface of 30–40 cm.
• the supporting profile and gypsum board sheet are secured with screws to the guide profile (PN);
• the seams are sealed incorrectly: they use the wrong putty, bad reinforcing tape and do not make a covering layer.

If you plan to hang heavy chandeliers, then the pitch of the supporting profile should be 40 centimeters, in other cases - 50 cm.

In the places where the profiles adjoin the walls, we put marks with a pencil, this will make it easier to navigate where the load-bearing profile goes. When fastening the gypsum board there is a risk of missing. And under the guide profile we glue a separating tape; after puttingtying the junction, it ensures the sliding of the gypsum board sheet when the structure moves from the settlement of the building.

Often apartment owners want to have a illuminated ceiling. They allow you to get it multi-level structures from plasterboard. The process of creating such structures is similar to creating conventional ones. suspended structures, but requires a more responsible approach at the calculation stage.

Sheathing: sheet installation technology

Let's start the sheathing, using KNAUF sheet with a thickness of 12.5 mm. It is impossible to use material of a different thickness (exceptions are side curved surfaces). To secure the sheets, we use a special lift, which greatly facilitates the work of constructing the ceiling - you can work alone.

Screws must be screwed sequentially from the middle to the edges of the sheet or from the corner to the sides every 15 cm. You cannot fasten the sheet around the perimeter for the purpose of pre-fixing it.

The edge of the plasterboard sheet is NOT attached to the guide profile screwed to the wall.

When cutting a sheet along the edge, be sure to make a bevel of 22.5 degrees.

We space the transverse joints relative to each other.

We prime the edged joints with Tiefengrunt primer.

After the primer has dried, it is necessary to fill the seams and screw holes, then re-prime the surface, and then proceed to putty the entire surface.

Neither gypsum board sheets nor load-bearing profiles are fixed to the guide profile 28/27 (on the wall), i.e. The walls and ceiling should not be tightly connected! Use gypsum board with a thickness of 12.5 mm. When cutting sheets, a chamfer of 22.5 degrees is made on the edge. The sheets are fixed staggered.

Video

This video will help you properly seal drywall joints:

In this article we will try to explain in detail how cladding is performed. Having carefully familiarized yourself with this material, you can easily assemble any structure from plasterboard boards.

Introduction

First, you need to find out what elements the pendant consists of. Like any building structure, plasterboard ceiling consists of a base - a frame and a cladding (or filler) - a plasterboard gypsum board.

The frame is made of galvanized profile different sizes and sections. The design is very light and practically does not exert any special pressure on the floor slabs.

Below is a list of components and materials for a suspended plasterboard ceiling:

• Plasterboard ceiling sheets
• Wall guide profile UD-27
• Ceiling bearing profile CD-60
• Straight U-shaped suspension
• Connector for cross-shaped profile (crab)
• Straight profile connector
• Plastic dowels and self-tapping screws (recommended quick installation 6 x 40 mm)
• Self-tapping screws for metal with a 12 mm drill (seeds)
• Black 25 mm self-tapping screws for attaching drywall to the frame

Thickness 9.5 mm. They are lightweight and simplify the process of assembling the entire ceiling structure. To putty the ceiling you will need the following materials:

• Self-adhesive mesh (serpyanka) for gypsum board joints 50 mm wide
• Primer (any liquid will do)
• Finishing gypsum putty
• Putty for joints (you can use Fugenfüller or something similar)
• Grinding mesh
• Fine-grained sandpaper (zero)

Undoubtedly, the question naturally arises of how to accurately calculate the quantity of each structural element and finishing materials. To do this, use the method presented below.

Calculation of materials for plasterboard ceilings

There are simple rules for calculating materials:

The quantity of the UD-27 profile guide is equal to the perimeter of the room (add the length of all 4 walls)

The supporting profile is mounted on plasterboard in the following order: the first and last at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, the distance between the remaining profiles is 600 mm (possibly less). The remaining profiles are attached to the ceiling at intervals of 600 mm. The number of TsD-60 profile is equal to the number of rows multiplied by the length of the room

The TsD-60 bearing profile is suspended on U-shaped hangers with a pitch of 1 m. Between the supporting profiles, jumpers from the TsD-60 profile are installed in increments of 0.6 m. A cross-shaped connector (crab) is used for connection.

The number of plasterboard boards is equal to the area (to do this, you need to multiply the width of the room by its length). When calculating, add 5% to the resulting figure. This is necessary to compensate for material consumption when trimming

It is important to know! To make accurate calculations, it is recommended to draw a floor plan (top view). Mark on it all the dimensions (length, width, level of the future ceiling), the axes of the location of the supporting profiles, the attachment points of the U-shaped suspensions, the location of the crabs and lintels.

To finish a plasterboard ceiling, gypsum putties and primers are used. deep penetration. It is important to know! To ensure that cracks do not appear at the joints of gypsum board slabs, the joints are reinforced with self-adhesive fiberglass mesh and puttyed with a special putty for joints.

Consumption of gypsum putty from different manufacturers approximately the same. It is 0.46 kg per 1 square meter of ceiling with a layer thickness of 1 mm. A primer is pre-primed. Liquid primer consumption is about 200 - 300 grams per 1 sq.m.

Expensive instruments can be rented from a specialized store. construction tools. Everyone will probably have everything else home handyman.

Before hemming the ceiling with plasterboard, use a water or laser level to mark a horizontal plane on the walls. The minimum height at which the ceiling is hemmed with plasterboard is 3 cm. If built-in Spotlights, then the ceiling level is lowered by 10 or 12 cm depending on the size of the lighting fixture.

If only a chandelier is used, then the plasterboard ceiling frame can be lowered to the thickness of the CD-60 ceiling support profile. At the place where it is attached, an embedded plywood piece 40 x 40 cm and 10 mm thick is mounted to the existing ceiling.

The marks on the walls along the perimeter are connected using painting and dyeing thread. On the ceiling, axes are also marked for attaching direct hangers and load-bearing profiles.

Installation of the guide profile

Along the marked line along the perimeter in increments of 35 - 40 cm, the UD-27 guide profile is fastened using dowel-nails for quick installation. This operation is performed using a concrete drill bit with a diameter of 6 mm and a hammer.

Direct hangers are attached along the lines on the ceiling with a pitch of 600 mm using dowels and self-tapping screws. Their perforated ends are lowered at an angle of 90 degrees.

The profile has a length of 3 or 4 m, so if necessary, they are joined using a straight connector. Sometimes it is made from the same supporting profile.

The profile is attached to the U-hanger mustache with galvanized 12 mm self-tapping screws, two on each side. This is done with a screwdriver.

Installation of crabs and fastening of crossbars

Crabs are attached to the supporting profiles at 600 mm intervals. Between the parallel profiles, jumpers are mounted to the crabs. For this purpose, sections from the same supporting profile are used. They are connected between the crabs and the guide profiles with 12 mm self-tapping screws.

Not everyone can and, especially, not everyone wants to pay a lot of money to a team for installing a frame, which you can attach with your own hands. When ordering plasterboard ceilings in a bedroom, hallway or hall, you will spend a lot more money for their installation than when buying materials in a store. Is there really no way out? Just learn it yourself! And we assure you that a plasterboard ceiling is not as scary as it is described on the Internet!

Having spent only 20-25 minutes of time, you can make suspended ceilings from plasterboard without outside help. Therefore, right now we will steal a “piece of bread” from professional installers and screw this thing in place with our own hands!

Why do you need a plasterboard ceiling?

Many people believe that this design is only for beauty. In fact, everything is completely different and appearance rooms - the last reason to make a suspended ceiling. Let's take a closer look at why you need to make a plasterboard ceiling.

1. Saving on heating: you you will pay 10-25% less money for heating, this is especially true for tall buildings. From a ceiling of 320 centimeters ( a private house, Stalin) you can make 240-250 cm, therefore, do not heat excess and warm air will be closer.
2. Ceiling leveling. Some emergency rooms require significant repairs. With the help of drywall, the problem with the ceiling is solved - you will smooth out any unevenness.
3. The problem of laying communications and utility networks. Sometimes it’s easier to hide them under drywall than to saw through the entire ceiling and walls with a wall chaser.
4. Sound isolation. The best way“get rid” of neighbors and retire to your own house or apartment. At high-quality insulation You can even live at the airport.

There are other minor advantages: plasterboard ceilings allow you to make multi-level structures and dry quickly, which significantly speeds up construction and moving into new house possible much faster.

Marking the ceiling for plasterboard - the first stage

Let's start with purchasing materials and counting money. To know how much material will fly onto the plasterboard ceiling in the bedroom, you need to mark it and calculate it using a calculator. Let's take a closer look at how to mark the ceiling for plasterboard.

STEP 1: calculate the lowest point of the ceiling. You need to take a tape measure and measure all the angles. Take the smallest distance as a basis, step back 7 centimeters from above and apply a mark with a marker.

STEP 2: Marks other corners. Let's take it laser level(a hydraulic level is also possible, but the work is more difficult) and “punch” a straight line to the other three corners, make marks.

STEP 3: draw a line on the wall. We hammer 1 nail at one mark, another at another, stretch the paint cord between them (lubricate it a little with grease), then move it to the side and release it. He hits the wall, leaves a smooth mark - the line is ready. You can also simply draw a line using a ruler (level, profile) and a pencil.

STEP 4: fastening the guides. We will start counting from them. We apply a metal profile 28x27 mm and drill holes through it in the wall every 10 centimeters. We take the sealing tape (sold as a set), glue it to the profile, apply it to the wall and fix it with dowels on the holes made.

STEP 5: mark the wall for the main profiles. The drywall has a width of 120 centimeters and there are 3 profiles per sheet, that is, every 40 centimeters (at the edges of the sheets). We mark marks on any side of the wall every 40 cm and draw a line. We draw perpendicular jumpers every 250 centimeters (sheet length). The first suspension will be placed at a distance of 25 centimeters from the wall, then every 40-50 centimeters.

Important: do not forget to make marks on the wall where the profiles will be located under the drywall. This will greatly simplify the search during the process of screwing the drywall, because the sheets are large and you will have to poke holes in it for a long time until you find the jumper in the middle of the sheet.

Now you can safely count all the lines on the wall and multiply them by the length or width of the room, respectively. There’s no need to scribble “in reserve”, since it’s impossible to spoil a metal profile and even a bent one can be safely aligned and screwed onto dowels. Additionally, at this stage we will need the following items for the plasterboard ceiling:

1. Metal profiles 28x27 mm (guides) and 60x27 (main) according to the calculations.
2. "Crabs" for connecting profiles.
3. Sealing tape.
4. Anchors and dowels (you can take 50 pieces to start with).
5. Level.
6. Plasterboard sheets (10 mm, moisture resistant)
7. Putty (3-4 bags per medium-sized room).
8. Screwdriver.
9. Drywall self-tapping screws (25 mm for 10 mm sheets).
10. Spatula and standard tools (ruler, tape measure, stationery knife, hammer).

After purchasing all this slop (most of the tools are probably already on the farm), you can start working.

The second stage is the installation of a metal frame for the ceiling

The materials have been purchased and now the most boring, but important part of the work awaits - fastening metal profiles and creating a strong frame for the ceiling. In principle, this is not much more difficult than, only in this case the work is carried out with raised hands. Remember that the accuracy of the work depends on whether your plasterboard ceiling will sag in 2-3 years or not.

STEP 1: We attach the profile hangers to the ceiling. This must be done with anchors, since the dowel is for vertical surface much worse.

STEP 2: increasing profiles. Since 1 profile is not enough for the entire room, they need to be fastened together. To do this, you need to purchase special connecting fasteners and fasten the profiles with it. The joints should be close to the profile suspension.

STEP 3: fastening profiles to hangers. You need to evenly lift the profile by 2 edges (a helper would be helpful here), screw one, rearrange the stepladder and attach the other edge. Next, following the mark on the wall (where the profile is located), “grab” the profile over the entire area. We start fastening from the corners.

Important: never leave the profile unsupported by 1 or two screws, as it weighs a lot and can break the attachment point with its weight or simply bend. Minimum 2 points in different angles profile, or preferably 3-4 points.

STEP 4: after screwing the corners, you need to check the profile with a level. A tool 250 centimeters long will do. If you somehow managed to screw it crookedly, unscrew it and adjust it with hangers in the required place.

STEP 5: in exactly the same way we attach all the profiles in the middle of the room, moving from the corners to the center, we attach the jumpers (joining points of 2 sheets of drywall every 250 centimeters). This can be done with a special metal crab. We cut the jumpers from the profile and screw them together.

STEP 6: sound insulation and insulation. If installation metal frame implies the installation of insulation and insulation, then it’s time to take care of it at this stage. We cut the mineral wool into large pieces and attach it over the lintels.

Important: use goggles, a respirator and gloves when installing mineral wool, it may get into the eyes and cause severe skin irritation.

Installation of a frame under drywall is the most difficult and long process, all subsequent work is done several times faster and will seem much easier (however, they are easier).

Attaching drywall to profiles

When the steel is already hanging on your ceiling, another field for creativity opens up... After installing the frame from the metal profile, you can move on to the drywall itself. After purchasing the material, it must be placed in room temperature with a relative humidity of no more than 85%, let it rest for several days. Remember that sheets cannot be placed vertically and stored that way– they can become deformed under their own weight, especially if they were a little damp. Let's move on to the fastening process.

STEP 1: Use a utility knife to cut the edges of each drywall at an angle of 30-40% to make it easier to seal them with putty later. This only applies to cut sheets, since pasted sheets already have such a chamfer from the start.

STEP 2: we lift the sheet (an auxiliary worker will not hurt) and attach it in the corners, then look for a profile along the line marked on the wall and screw the drywall there. If you ignored such tags in the first section, you will have to search for the profile at random. You must retreat at least 15 centimeters from the edges so that the sheet does not crack, remember this!

STEP 3: we check all the screws so that the heads are flush with the surface of the material, otherwise it won’t be possible to putty normally, and “obliquely, crookedly, as long as it’s quick” will not suit us.

Fastening HA sheets takes no more than an hour per small room, since your frame is already level and all that remains is to grab them to the profile using a screwdriver. The frequency of tightening the screws is 20 centimeters.

Sealing seams, leveling and counting materials

After the sheets are attached, you need to prepare the putty and apply it using a large spatula, making sure the corners are even so that there is no excess finishing material at the junction of walls and drywall. If you apply more, it will take a long time to straighten the corners.

After the putty has dried (6-8 hours), you can take trowel tape or paper and remove all the “smudges,” level the surface and prepare it for finishing. The ceiling can be painted in the desired color, made suspended ceiling, decorative plaster and everything you need.

For a room at 20 square meters You will need approximately the following amount of materials:

• 19 ceiling profiles standard size;
• 110 hangers (attaching the profile to the ceiling);
• 8-9 sheets of GC 10 mm;
• 10 guide profiles (they stick to the wall);
• 24 crabs;
• 0.5 kg self-tapping screws for attaching drywall.
• 30 dowels.

Having made simple calculations of the cost of hiring a work team, we can state that we saved 11,500 rubles by making a plasterboard ceiling with our own hands. Whether it makes sense to spend a couple of days and save this amount is up to you to decide.

1. The joints connecting 2 metal profiles cannot be placed on the same line; they must be done at random, like laying bricks with a “bond” in construction.
2. The use of sealing tape significantly reduces the noise level in the apartment, since sound is not transmitted through the metal.
3. Buy now moisture resistant drywall from famous manufacturer, its cost is a little higher, but you will be sure that it will not “lead” and the edges will not break.
4. Use a screwdriver to screw the sheets; using a screwdriver is simply unrealistic. Immediately buy an additional battery so that you can work continuously.
5. Finishing putty hides only small irregularities, so sand and apply the first layer as evenly as possible - it is actually the last.

If everything is done correctly and according to the instructions, the plasterboard ceiling will be no worse than the one made by the work crew and 100 times better than what would-be migrant workers make it at “half the price”! We also suggest watching a video of how experienced builders make a plasterboard ceiling:

When renovating an apartment, a home craftsman is often faced with work on the ceiling, which is always in the field of view of any visitor and therefore is important in the design of any room.

Thanks to the availability of a wide range of plasterboard sheets and various fastening devices for it, you can create a perfectly flat ceiling with your own hands, ensuring beautiful interior rooms. To do this, you will need a simple set of tools and the ability to use them with.

How to choose plasterboard for the ceiling

Since the entire structure is raised to a height and fixed there, you should pay attention to its weight. The larger it is, the more difficult it is to perform quality work, apply measures against collapse.

Types of drywall sheets produced by industry are described in the article. When choosing them for the ceiling when renovating an apartment with your own hands, you should not take those that are thicker than 12.5 mm. It is optimal to use 9.5 or 8.0 mm. Otherwise total weight suspended ceiling structure may be quite large.

It is enough to determine the total area of ​​the ceiling, and from it, knowing the characteristics of one sheet taken from the table, calculate the final weight.

Stages of installing a suspended ceiling

The work comes down to the sequential execution of technological operations:

• determining the plane of placement of the base surface and marking it on building structures;
• installation of a retaining frame made of metal profiles, taking into account highways electrical wiring and low-current circuits;
• fastening plasterboard sheets;
• putties and finishing surfaces.

How to mark a suspended ceiling

The ideal solution is to mount the structure strictly in a position that is well perceived by our vision. It is convenient to use to implement various designs of designers.

When renovating an apartment with your own hands to mark the horizon, you can use conventional hydraulic levels with bubble reference indicators or various designs laser levels. The use of the latter greatly facilitates the drawing of the base plane and allows it to be completed quickly and efficiently.

In order to mark the depth of lowering the plasterboard surface from the ceiling, you will need to draw its horizon level on the walls.

The laser beam allows you to quickly identify boundaries horizontal plane. To mark it, you should determine the lowest point on the ceiling slabs and step back from it by minimum size 4 cm. This distance is necessary to hide the profiles and conveniently secure them with hangers.

If they are installed close to the ceiling, it will be quite difficult to work, and a greater distance reduces the volume free space rooms.

In the places marked by the laser beam, clearly visible control points are applied with a marker pencil. The entire line is marked along them with a painting cord. To do this, it is secured at the edges and then abruptly released.

When marking, do not forget to take into account the thickness of the drywall sheet.

This is done along the entire perimeter of the room, drawing a single closed line along the walls. After this, it is necessary to draw markings for installing profiles along the width of the ceiling and attaching drywall to them.

Each sheet must be fastened around the perimeter and midline. With a standard width of 120 cm, the center will be located 60 cm from the edge. At this distance from the wall, markings are made for attaching profiles.


Each line should coincide with the joint of the plasterboard sheet in the center of the intermediate profile. Along it, holes will be drilled in the ceiling at equal distances for dowels for fastening with self-tapping screws the suspensions that regulate and hold the intermediate profile.

It is convenient to mark ceiling lines along the long side of the room. You need to start working from one wall and gradually move to the opposite. The last row may be shorter. Sheets of drywall will have to be cut for it.

How to install a frame for installing a suspended ceiling

First designs plasterboard sheets attached to the ceiling through dried wooden slats. However, wood is susceptible to moisture, shrinkage and deformation. After some period of time outer surface Cracks and defects may appear. For these reasons modern technology involves installing drywall only on metal profiles specially created for this purpose.

General rules

Installation principle plasterboard construction is based on rigidly attaching a guide profile to the walls and installing an intermediate profile into it, which is additionally adjusted and held on suspensions screwed to the ceiling.

From the standard range of profiles produced by the industry for fastening drywall, UD27 are suitable as guide models, and CD60 as intermediate ones.

You will also need ribbon hangers, the number of which depends on the profile assembly scheme.

Installation of the guide profile

The line drawn on the wall serves as a guide for installing the lower surface of the mounted profile.

To do this, it is pre-drilled and applied to the installation site. After orientation on the wall, a marker pencil is inserted through the created holes, leaving a visible mark. Using the created markings, holes are punched with a puncher and dowels are hammered into them.

This installation will serve as a support for the entire suspended ceiling structure. It must be done reliably.

Fastening the intermediate profile

Its length must be strictly measured and correspond to the size of the room. If it is larger, then the excess part can be cut off with a grinder or a hacksaw. When the standard size of 3 meters is not enough, the missing piece is increased by connecting through an adapter with a screw fastening.

Intermediate profiles prepared along the length are inserted into guides fixed to the wall so that their wide part of the base faces down to the plasterboard sheets.

Before performing this operation, strip suspensions are installed along the previously outlined lines on the ceiling. They serve to adjust the created horizontal plane of the suspended ceiling. When controlling the work, it is convenient to use a stretched thread or cord and a tape measure.

The indentation of the profile from the surface of the stationary ceiling of about one centimeter is needed in order to conveniently fasten it to the suspension with a metal screw and adjust the level of the horizontal plane by inserting the tip of your finger into this gap.

After attaching the profile, the free ends of the suspension are bent to the side.

How to install electrical wiring in a suspended ceiling

The rooms should be thought out in advance, before you start renovating the apartment yourself. To do this, you should consider and determine the installation locations of junction boxes.

Clutter and hide inside building structures connection points for cables and wires are not allowed. Access to them must be free. Otherwise, in the event of a malfunction in the electrical network, you will have to look for the cause of the breakdown and break the created decorative coatings.

Installation of electrical lines

Cables and wires for lamps located in a suspended ceiling are placed in a corrugation or metal sleeve that protects its surface from mechanical damage, and then fixed to the ceiling or in profiles.

Create an intermediate fastening link or a separate suspension system, and spotlights can be mounted directly in sheets of drywall.

Here you should also include questions for lighting fixtures, ensure their required length.

Work with electrical wiring must be completely completed before installing the sheets on the frame.

How to prepare and attach drywall

Features of end preparation

Along the entire perimeter of the surface of each sheet, curly edges must be created that serve to fill the putty solution. On factory products they may have different profiles.

If you need to cut sheets of drywall, then at the joints created professional builders form edges special tool.

The home craftsman does not have such devices, but it is quite possible to get by with a simple plane for processing wood.

Its cutting blade is strictly fixed in the body and allows for an even, uniform cut.

Use it with an ordinary knife Don't do it: you'll end up with a crooked surface.

Edges are created in order to increase the amount of space for the putty solution. If you do not do them, then due to its insufficient amount, cracks will begin to form on the decorative surface over time.

Surface marking

On each sheet, before installing it on the ceiling, it is necessary to draw marking lines along which self-tapping screws will be screwed in for fastening to the intermediate profile hidden behind the surface. An ordinary tape measure and paint cord will allow you to do this job quickly and efficiently.

Installing drywall on the frame

The weight of one sheet, depending on the thickness, can range from 12 to 36 kg. At the same time, it has large dimensions. Working with it and lifting it from the floor to the ceiling level is not entirely easy: you need an assistant.

Among the builders there are specialists who, with experience and prepared equipment, perform such work alone. The owner of the video Severkola demonstrates one of the methods of such editing.

Repeat these techniques without specific construction experience We do not recommend any skills in handling drywall.

Features of fastening sheets to the frame

Installation of drywall is carried out using 35 mm self-tapping screws. In order for them to hold heavy weight well, they are screwed in at a distance of 10 mm from the edge of the sheet and 10÷15 cm from each other. Fastening is carried out along the entire perimeter of the surface and the center line.

Pre-made clear markings of the suspended ceiling made of metal profiles and plasterboard sheets ensure that the screws accurately fit into the fastening elements.

The head caps must be flat. They are slightly recessed into the surface of the sheet for subsequent convenient puttying and leveling.

In places where the sheets join, it is necessary to install additional profiles to ensure a tight fit of the drywall. The connection is made using transitional inserts fastened with threads or “Crab” type hangers.

Fastening sheets to them with self-tapping screws ensures increased rigidity of the structure and eliminates the formation of cracks during operation.

The general view of the created structure with the power cable out is shown in the photograph.

Putty and finishing

From Supplies For this work, you will need to purchase the putty itself and tape that reinforces the joints of the plates.

Technology correct execution The sequence of operations is well shown in the owner’s video “Front of work” “Plastering the ceiling High Quality" We recommend that you carefully read this material because a certain part of builders violate these rules, simplifying their work.