Putty for chipboard. Cement particle boards (CSP) Ceramic tile floors
Traditional methods of house construction and building decoration that have been used for centuries are gradually losing their relevance. Modern construction technologies focused on new materials with high performance, structural and environmental properties.
One of these materials is CSP - cement bonded particle board. She appeared on Russian market not so long ago, but the prospects for its use on the scale of domestic housing construction seem quite significant.
Finishing the facade with DSP boards - photo
DSP are monolithic sheet slabs with a density of up to 1400 kg/m3 and a thickness of up to 35 mm, having a very smooth top layer with a specified hardness. These products are in great demand in increasingly popular technological methods, when all wet operations are eliminated if possible and the so-called “dry type installation” is performed. The quality of these board products is regulated by GOST 26816-86, as well as by the regulatory document EN 635-2EU, adopted in the territorial space of the European Community.
DSP boards - sizes, types, characteristics
DSP is an indispensable material for the construction of new mixed-use facilities and renovation of old buildings. DSP sheets do not put a load on bearing structures and walls. Also, particle-cement composites are used as a structural material, which is used to enhance the rigidity of elements. Without the use of DSP it is impossible to carry out low-rise construction: cement particle boards are used as formwork in solid and strip foundations, thereby significantly reducing the time, labor costs and complexity of installation, since the DSP does not cause deformations during pouring, as well as during the hardening period of the concrete mixture.
Cement particle board allows you to forget about such labor-intensive operations as preparation and mixing cement mortar, plastering wall surfaces, as well as their leveling. Due to the smoothness of DSP sheets from technological process operations of preliminary puttying of the slab surface are eliminated, so they can be immediately used for priming and painting.
Production technology and component composition
What is included in the functional composite DSP:
- Portland cement grade not lower than M-500 - 65%;
- wood shavings from industrial wood waste coniferous species – 24 %;
- mineral additives in the form of aluminum sulfate or chloride – 3%;
- liquid glass – 2%;
- water – 6%.
Important! When purchasing cement-bonded particle boards for finishing the façade of an individual mansion, you should give preference to those types of cement-bonded particle boards that contain liquid glass. DSP sheets with this additive in the set of initial components are indifferent to humidity, temperature changes, and precipitation.
Production technology of this functional material quite simple:
- a certain volume of needle crushed wood shavings is placed in the drum;
- minerals are added to it;
- Portland cement, liquid glass and water are also introduced there;
- as a result of intensive mixing, a homogeneous mass is obtained;
- the slab is formed from several floorings: in the middle of the slab there is a layer with a large fraction of chips, which determines the level of its strength. External floorings contain finely ground shavings, which give flat surface high smoothness;
- the workpiece is processed on a press;
- After this, the semi-finished product is transported along a conveyor belt into the hardening chamber.
The resulting products are cement-bonded particle boards of a monolithic structure that are not subject to delamination. A significant advantage obtained in this way technologically The composite is the absolute absence of emissions of harmful volatile substances, since the boards contain no thermoplastic resins, glue and other synthetic components.
Performance properties of cement bonded particle boards
Functionality:
Strength.
The exceptional bending and tensile strength of CBPB is due to their production technology: press pressure, heat contribute to the creation of a monolith that can withstand significant loads. During deforming bending, the strength of the material changes by no more than 10%.
Machinability.
DSP sheets can be sawed, cut, drilled, sanded, milled using various tools:
- circular saw;
- Bulgarians;
- metal drill.
Prices for angle grinders (grinders)
Angle grinders (grinders)
Moisture resistance.
The mineral components in the material, as well as the smooth surface of the board, make the CBPB practically impervious to moisture in all its forms. However, there is still a small degree of swelling: when immersed in water for a day, it swells by only 2%. That is why, during the construction of buildings, small gaps are provided between the slabs. A smooth surface promotes rapid evaporation of water, which is why DSP sheets are used for the construction of moisture-resistant walls, hygiene rooms and sanitary facilities in public buildings.
Environmental friendliness.
Cement particle boards absolutely harmless to environment, they do not contain phenols, formaldehyde compounds, they do not contain carcinogenic impurities and toxic substances. Sheets of slabs do not accumulate electrical charges.
Fire resistance.
DSP is a low-flammable and low-flammable substance. Even if a fire does occur, the flame spreads very inactively, being localized at the source of the fire. When smoking, no toxic substances are released.
Resistance to low temperatures.
Frost resistance of DSP is one of the highest. Measurements showed that the destruction of the composite occurs only after fifty flexion-extension cycles. In percentage terms, this is no more than 10%, which confirms the high operational properties material at low temperatures. This is especially true when carrying out construction in the Arctic, Far North, Siberia and Ural regions.
Biostability.
Sheets of cement particle boards are not subject to rotting, the destructive effects of mold and fungal structures due to the antiseptic compound - calcium hydroxide. A concentrated alkaline environment of the material is formed during the production cycle, so CBPB is avoided by gnawing animals.
Prices for cement bonded particle boards
Harmonious union: DSP panels for exterior home decoration
Before you begin installing panels made of cement bonded particle boards, you need to decide on the thickness of the material and its dimensions. Sheet parameters according to standard:
- length from 3200 to 3600 mm;
- width – from 1200 to 1250 mm.
Material thickness in question of the device exterior finishing comes to the fore due to its significance. Here you should take into account the required wind and heat protection, the load on the slab and at the same time created by the material load on the building frame.
- frame house construction - 14-35 mm;
- rough floors -10 mm;
- window sills, canopies, slopes - 18 mm - 30 mm;
- permanent foundation formwork - 14 mm -20 mm;
- partitions, walls - 14 - 18 mm.
On the scale of frame wall construction various rooms are made mainly from slabs with a cross-sectional size from 12 to 40 mm, and on the outside they take a sheet thickness from 16 to 24-28 mm. To install a DSP on the facade of a house, it is better to take a sheet of 16, or at most 18 mm: it does not break under acceptable impact and does not create an excessive load on the frame base of the building.
Table 1. Physical and mechanical characteristics of DSP
| Characteristics | Meaning |
|---|---|
| Planar deviation, mm | 0,8 |
| Density | 1100-1400 kg/m3 |
| Humidity | 8 +/- 2% |
| Daily swelling in cross section | 2% |
| Fire resistance | 92% |
| Bending strength of DSP 10-16 mm | 14 MPa |
| Flexural strength 24 mm | 11 MPa |
| Deviations in the cross section of the DSP 10 mm | +/- 0.8 mm |
| Deviations in the cross section of the DSP 12-16 mm | +/- 1.0 mm |
| Deviations in the cross section of the DSP 24 mm | +/- 1.0 mm |
| Maximum errors in the parameters of the CBPB board | +/- 2 mm |
| Humidity | 2% |
| Noise protection | 88% |
| Resistance to low temperatures | 12% |
| Vapor permeability | 2% |
| Daily water absorption | 15% |
Installation of DSP panels on the facade of a house
Before you begin installing the panels on frame house, you need to think about insulation buildings. Typically, in climatic conditions Russian Federation During the installation of DSP panels on the façade of a house, insulation is used in accordance with the climatic conditions of the area where the house is being built.
Choice of insulation
The most suitable heat shields are used as different kinds insulation material:
Each type of insulation has its own positive sides and some disadvantages. Compared to insulating materials of natural origin, for example, flax production waste, their advantages are obvious: they are more effective in retaining heat inside the building.
Important! If you have chosen non-flammable mineral wool as insulation, then it is better to purchase wool in slabs rather than in rolls: it does not cake when placed vertically.
So, the insulation has been purchased, now it’s time to start installing the DSP panels. Doing it yourself is not at all difficult if you follow the instructions and meticulously follow all the instructions.
Prices for various types of insulation
Various types of insulation
Step-by-step instructions for installing DSP panels on the facade of an individual house
Step 1. We form the sheathing along the entire outer wall space.
Mount on all walls using a level reliable system fastenings in a vertical direction, capable of withstanding the serious load that will be created by the CBPB slabs. The elements of the lathing system can be wooden, for example, from timber measuring 50x50, or metal in the form of rectangular pipes 50x20 or metal profiles. The distance between adjacent elements is at least 60 cm. The vertical direction must be maintained flawlessly, then installation of the DSP panels can be carried out without problems.
Step 2. Laying insulation.
Important! Calculation of the required volume of purchase of this façade component must be made separately, depending on the area of the walls and the type of thermal insulation.
We distribute the insulation over the entire wall space, laying it between the verticals of the sheathing. The insulation must be attached to the wall with self-tapping screws of the required length.
Step 3. Adding a windproof membrane.
As soon as the building is insulated, a windproof membrane comes into play, which is applied over the insulation to the entire wall space. It also needs to be securely fixed in place. During this stage of work, you need to pay attention to the fact that the difference between the plane of the membrane and the plane of the already installed insulation should be at least 2 cm.
Prices for windproof membranes
Windproof membrane
Important! The ventilation gap must not be neglected! If you do not leave it, then there is a high probability that condensation will accumulate inside, which will ultimately lead to rotting of the frame.
Step 4. We drill holes for fasteners in the sheathing.
We prepare holes for fasteners.
Step 5. Installation of panels made of cement bonded particle boards.
Let's start installing the DSP panels. The step between fasteners should not be less than 30 cm and more than 60 cm, and the gap between adjacent plates should not be more than 5 mm. A gap is left in case of deformations that occur during temperature changes or during movements of soil layers.
In order to avoid cracking of the DSP sheets from the fasteners, the screws must be tightened at a distance of 1 cm from the edge of the slab. The same principle is used to cover decorative columns, load-bearing supports and crossbars.
Important! It is not recommended to install cement building slabs in a row along the entire perimeter of the building. Installation of the panels must be done in stages, separately on each wall. Only after the installation of cement-bonded particle boards on one wall space has been completed can you proceed to the next wall.
Step 6. Grouting joints between slabs.
After the building shrinks, the seams between the sheets of cement-bonded particle boards can be rubbed with any means intended for this purpose or decorated as appearance accents.
Step 7 Final decorative finishing walls
After the installation work is completed, you need to start decorating the walls. In this matter, each owner is guided only by his own aesthetic preferences, because cement-bonded particle boards provide an incredible variety of choices. Houses lined with DSP panels can be painted, treated with tinting compounds, and finished facade plaster or add to the facade fake diamond. Or maybe it’s worth designing the architectural appearance of the new building in the Russian style? Then you need to glue unique design elements to the walls of the house that imitate wooden carvings - blind, through, overhead.
Due to its use in construction work modern materials, in particular, cement particle boards, the house will be warm, durable, fire-resistant, and have excellent soundproofing properties. And it's also very beautiful! Finishing individual households with cement particle boards allows you to create your own unique architectural appearance of any home, any village, any city!
Video - Sheathing the frame of a house with DSP
The simplest surface finishing of DSP is painting with the formation of open seams (gaps) between the boards
Facade painting of DSP TAMAK. System with visible expansion joints
| Primer, 1 layer | Final painting, 2 layers | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|
| Disbon 481 | Caparol Thermo San NQG. Facade paint based on silicone resin | Caparol |
| Tiefgrund TB | Amphibolin - Caparol. Acrylic paint | Caparol |
| CapaSol LF | Caparol Acryl - Fassadenfarbe. Acrylic paint | Caparol |
| Caparol Sylitol 111 Konzentra - silicate primer based liquid glass | Silitol-Fin. Mineral paint | Caparol |
| Malech / Elastocolor Primer | Elastocolor. Elastic acrylic paint | MAPEI |
| LNPP, Samara | ||
| VD-AK-18 (Shagreen). Water-dispersed acrylic paint | LNPP, Samara | |
| VD-AK-035 | VD-AK-117. Water-dispersed acrylic in two layers | PIGMENT, Tambov |
| Soil Strengthening Bolars | Structure. Textured Bolars based on acrylic dispersion | Bolars, Moscow |
| Primer Facade | Alpha Coat. Textured paint, matte waterborne quartz-containing | Sikkens |
Facade painting of DSP TAMAK. Closed expansion joint system
PLASTER
Facade plaster DSP TAMAK. System with visible expansion joints or joints covered by decorative strips
Diagram of an open expansion seam for compensation linear changes caused by temperature and humidity influences.
| The basis | Primer, 1 layer | Finish plaster | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Adhesive reinforcing compound Klebe und Spachte Imasse 190 grau+ reinforcing mesh 650 | Caparol-Putzgrund | Structural plaster Capatect-Fassadenputz R 30 | DAV-Russland |
| Capillary | Fresque (Fresco) - decorative relief paste with a fibrous texture | Maxdecor | |
| Optimist G - 103. Group of Companies "Optimist" | Finishing plaster | GC Wall | |
| Optimist G103 | Finishing polymer-mineral plaster Rain | GC Wall | |
| Acrylit-08 | Acrylit 415, elastic plaster | VLKZ OLIVA LLC | |
| Primeseal | Stuc-O-Flex | Representative office in Russia - Publishing House " Beautiful houses press | |
| Optimist G103 | Finishing plaster Manna D-708 | GC Optimist | |
| Extra glue (manufactured by PK LNPP CJSC) + cement M500 D0. Fiberglass mesh is alkali-resistant. | Textured plaster Fine LNPP | JSC PK LAES |
Facade plaster DSP TAMAK. Closed expansion joint system
Diagram of a closed expansion seam
| Preparation | Base layer | Finish plaster | Manufacturer |
|---|---|---|---|
| Malech primer. Puttying with Mapetherm AR2 and MapethermNet mesh (a 33 cm wide mesh strip is applied to the expansion joint) | Mapetherm AR2 over the entire area with MapethermNet mesh reinforcement in the middle layer. | MAPEI. | |
| Puttying with KerabondT + Isolastic latex and MapethermNet mesh (a 33 cm wide strip is applied to the expansion joint) | Malech primer applying Mapetherm AR2 over the entire area with MapethermNet mesh reinforcement in the middle layer | SilancolorTonachino - silicone-based decorative plaster | MAPEI. |
| To seal an expansion joint at the junction of 12mm thick TAMAK CBPB sheets, a cord of foamed polyethylene (for example Vilaterm), Ø 8mm, is placed in the joint, then elastic putty "JointCompound". | Primer "Stuc-O-Base" | Stuc-O-Flex | Stuc-O-Flex Representative in R.F. Publishing house "Beautiful Homes", Moscow |
| Sealing seams acrylic sealant Accent 117 | Extra Flex" elastic glue + CEMENT M500D0. Alkali-resistant fiberglass mesh, recessed into the middle layer of glue | Sahara Flex - elastic plaster | JSC "PK LNPP", Samara |
| Adhesive reinforcing mass Klebe und SpachteI masse 190 grau+ reinforcing mesh 650. | Caparol-Putzgrund with quartz filler | Capatect-Fassadenputz R 30 | Caparol |
| Align the seam along the joint of the CBPB panels until a single plane of joining of the slabs is created. Place Vilaterm or Isonel cord into the seam. Diameter 6-8 mm. The upper edge of the bundle should not reach the plane of the DSP sheets by 2-3 mm. Fill the seam with Bostik MS-Polymer 2720 sealant | Primer Akrylit 08. Elastic plaster Akrylit-415 | VLZK OLIVE |
NOTE
When carrying out finishing work, it is necessary to strictly follow the instructions for the use of material systems given by the manufacturer.
Texture paints are the least demanding on the quality of the finished surface, so they are recommended for painting facades yourself with a roller. Non-textured (smooth) paints are recommended to be applied only to specially prepared surfaces with recessed and puttied screws.
For fastening TAMAK DSP to frames on facades, it is recommended to use galvanized or anodized self-tapping screws(hereinafter referred to as self-tapping screws), because black (phosphated) can corrode under the influence of atmospheric moisture; in this case, they lose their strength qualities, and rust can appear through the finish coating.
Surface preparation of TAMAK CBPB for façade finishing work
Before painting, it is necessary to prepare the surface of the DSP as follows.
November 18, 2016Specialization: master in construction plasterboard structures, finishing work and installation floor coverings. Installation of door and window units, finishing of facades, installation of electrical, plumbing and heating - I can give detailed advice on all types of work.
Decorating the outside of a house with CSP (cement particle boards) is a solution that anyone can implement. In our today's review we will figure out how to properly organize the workflow so that when minimum costs time and effort to get an excellent result. I will talk about my experience in carrying out the work and share some little tricks.
This material is suitable both for transforming an existing structure and for cladding houses being built; it copes well with the function of basic exterior finishing and has all the necessary properties for this.
Very often, frame structures are sheathed with DSP, so if you are just building a house, you can immediately provide for the use of this material in the project.
Workflow Stages
Before I start to consider preparatory stage, I want to briefly talk about the pros and cons of DSP in case you are not familiar with the material. The main advantages are:
- High strength and impact resistance;
- The material does not burn and does not absorb moisture;
- Environmentally friendly;
- Vapor permeable and frost-resistant, has good performance vapor barriers.
The disadvantages include fragility when bent (therefore, the material must be carried edgewise) and the large weight of the elements (we will use the 12 mm thick option, the sheet weighs almost 53 kg).
Stage 1 – purchasing the necessary materials and tools
Let's look at the list of required materials. For simplicity, all information is presented in table form.
The instructions require that sheets be transported vertically and stored horizontally.
| Material | Description |
| DSP | I already wrote above that it is best to use the 12 mm thick option; many write that it is brittle, but if you handle it carefully, then nothing bad will happen; for example, we did not break a single sheet. The standard sheet size is 2700x1250 mm, but there may be other options. The price per unit of the above format is approximately 920 rubles |
| Wood block | From it we will make a frame for fastening the slabs, minimum size, which can be used is 50x50 mm, but the 60x40 or 60x60 option seems more convenient to me, it’s easier to fasten elements on it. Some use metallic profile, going under drywall, but it is much more expensive. Choose the option that is more convenient in your case |
| Insulation | It is recommended to put insulation in the sheathing to improve thermal insulation characteristics buildings. Most often, roll or slab mineral wool with a thickness of approximately 5 cm is used. Please note that there should be a gap of approximately 20 mm between the DSP and the insulation for ventilation; sometimes this factor influences the choice of material thickness |
| Windproof film | This is special membrane material, releasing moisture from the inside, but not letting it in from the outside. There are a great many options for sale, so there will be no problems with purchasing, the main thing is not to forget about the 10 cm margin for joints when calculating, otherwise it may turn out that quite a bit was not enough |
| Fasteners | It is best to fix the sheets to the frame using self-tapping screws; this can be either a special fastener with a drill tip or a regular wood version (holes need to be drilled for it). In addition, umbrella dowels are used for thermal insulation, as well as suspensions if it is necessary to move the frame away from the wall or to level out significant level differences |
When purchasing, always check the quality of the materials: the chipboard must be smooth, without damage to the surface, the block must be dry, otherwise the sheathing may become deformed after fastening.
Now we will deal with the tools that you will need when doing the work yourself:
- To cut CBPB boards, we need a grinder with a special stone disc; with its help, the work process is faster and easier. Do not listen to advisers who recommend using a jigsaw; the one who recommends this has most likely never cut similar material in this way;
- To drill holes in the DSP and tighten the screws, you will need a screwdriver; it can easily cope with such work, so there is no need to take an additional drill. Don’t forget about the equipment – attachments for fasteners and drills with a diameter of 4 mm;
- The easiest way to attach a windproof membrane is to use construction stapler, it allows you to quickly fix the material on wooden elements. For work, staples 6-8 mm long are used, no longer needed;
- When placing frame elements, be sure to control the plane using building level. You will also need a square and a pencil for marking work. In addition, in order not to constantly check the level, you can stretch the cord along the surface as a guide; aligning the block along it is much easier and faster.
Naturally, other tools and materials may be needed, it all depends on the specifics of the work. I have listed the most basic ones, and below I will tell you what else can be used in certain situations.
Stage 2 – installation of the frame and insulation of the surface
Preparing a house for finishing with a DSP has its own characteristics, although in general the process is simple and understandable. Of course, if you are building a frame structure, then you don’t need to do anything additional, everything is already ready.
In all other cases, you will have to build a supporting system, and this is done in compliance with the following rules:
- Work should be carried out in dry, warm weather; precipitation is extremely undesirable, since wood strongly absorbs moisture. It is also important that the timber is dry, this will prevent deformation of the structure after it is fixed. The walls need to be checked first, and if there are mortar deposits on them, then they should be knocked down, we need a flat surface;
- Before installation, the block should be treated with an antiseptic solution; it is best to use a trough or dig a hole in the ground, cover it with polyethylene and use it as a bath for immersing wooden elements. This type of processing is of the highest quality and allows you to achieve the best results. If this is not possible, then the block is simply processed with a brush;
- Then you can start measuring the structure and cutting it into pieces. the right size. remember, that maximum step the lathing should be no more than 60 cm, but you can make it smaller; some even place elements every 40 cm. You can fasten the cords along the edges of the wall with nails or dowels at the required level to immediately set the plane of the future structure;
- When it comes to attaching the block, the process may vary depending on the conditions. If the elements are located indented from the surface, then straight hangers are attached along the line after 50 cm, and the block is screwed to them with self-tapping screws. If the fixation is done directly on the wall, then the fastening method depends on the type of base; dowel-nails are used for blocks, brick and concrete, and self-tapping screws of the appropriate length are better suited for wood;
- Most often attached vertical racks, it is best to start with the extreme elements and go to the middle. After all the elements are installed in place, you can strengthen the structure with horizontal jumpers, but this is necessary if the frame does not have enough rigidity. If everything is fine, then you can fix it horizontal elements only from the bottom and top along the edges, so that it is convenient to attach the trim;
- The next stage is laying the insulation into the frame, as I wrote above, it is important that there is a gap between the heat insulator and the DSP; if there is none, then you will have to attach a counter-lattice, and this complicates the process. The mineral wool is simply cut into pieces of the required size and placed tightly in it, in principle, it will hold on as is, but it can be fixed now, or a little later, using umbrella dowels;
- Then you should secure the windproof membrane; it is best to cut it into pieces of the required size and secure it to the side edges of the frame, pressing the film against the insulation. After the initial fixation, you can secure the mineral wool with umbrella dowels directly through the windbreak, this way you will press the materials in the best possible way.
Stage 3 – fastening the cement bonded particle board
Now let's deal with installation work, the process is simple, but there are many important nuances that you definitely need to know. Do not forget that even though DSP for exterior finishing is not afraid of moisture, before fastening the material must be protected from water so that it retains its original dimensions.
As for the workflow, it consists of the following actions:
- First, you need to take measurements to figure out whether the material will need to be cut or whether it can be attached entirely. Most often, it turns out that both whole and cut elements are used, in this case it is better to measure the exact cutting parameters after fixing the whole sheets, so you definitely won’t go wrong. As for cutting, the work is done with a grinder along the marked line; do not forget to stock up on a respirator and safety glasses;
Before any finishing of the future facade, be it painting, putty or plaster, you will need to prime the surface. The ends require special attention, but once the material is already fixed, it will be difficult to reach them, so I advise priming them in advance, while the DSP is still in the stack. The cut elements are primed immediately, there is no need to wait for the surface to dry, they can be installed immediately.
- Drilling holes is necessary not only to simplify fastening, but also to create a gap between the screw and the material. The hole must be 0.5 mm larger than the diameter of the fastener so that when the material is deformed under the influence of humidity, the elements are not damaged. If you use standard self-tapping screws with a diameter of 3.5 mm, then you can drill with a 4 mm drill, the distance between the holes is 20 cm at the edges and 40 cm in the middle;
There should be at least 20 mm from the edge of the sheet to the hole; you should not place the fasteners along the very edge, as this can damage the boards and they will crack.
- Now it’s worth estimating the location of the sheet on the plane. Since it weighs a lot, at least one, or preferably two, assistants are needed for work. Remember that between the sheets it is necessary to leave a deformation gap of at least 4 mm wide, this will avoid damage to the material in the future;
- The finishing of the facade of the DSP is completed by fixing the material using self-tapping screws, they are screwed neatly and evenly, while someone is doing this work, two assistants must hold the element motionless so that it does not warp. Do not forget about the gaps between the sheets, and also that the fastener heads should be recessed into the surface by 2-3 mm, so that in the future they do not interfere with painting or plastering.
Stage 4 - decorating the facade
Finishing a house with DSP is not everything; you definitely need to apply either paint or decorative plaster, you choose the specific option yourself. I will tell you how to prepare surfaces for plastering or painting.
The process is simple:
- First you need to apply a primer to the surface, and for this, strengthening compounds are used deep penetration on acrylic base. The easiest way to carry out the work is with a roller; after application, you need to wait until the surface is completely dry - outdoors this takes a couple of hours;
- The seams need to be filled special composition, is best suited for these purposes polyurethane sealant . It is sold in tubes (in this case, a special gun is used for application) or in buckets (application is done using a spatula). It is necessary to fill the seams with the compound and level the layer with a spatula until the sealant dries; the same compound can also be used to cover the recesses from fastening with self-tapping screws;
- It is not necessary to putty the surface, it already looks good, if you have a lot of flaws, you can apply thin layer façade composition to level the walls;
- Any façade paint can be used for painting. To give the structure a decorative effect, planks can be attached to the joints; they are secured with self-tapping screws that are screwed into the seams.
Conclusion
Now you know that DSP is excellent for finishing facades; the material is easy to use, durable and lasts for at least half a century. The video in this article will clearly show some important points workflow, and if you still do not fully understand the topic, then write all questions in the comments under this review.
November 18, 2016If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, or ask the author something - add a comment or say thank you!
Cement particle board is a building material that is made from chemical additives. These additives reduce the harmful effects of wood on cement, fine shavings (wood) and Portland cement.
Features of DSP finishing
DSP is used for wall cladding (both external and internal). The main competitors of CBPB are: plywood, plasterboard, OSB, chipboard. The disadvantages of DSP is its high density– 1.4 t/m3. Also, due to its low bending strength, it can break.
Before starting to process the panel, you need to make sure that there are no chemical manifestations on its surface. If found, they should be removed with sandpaper or industrial soap.
Putty for CBPB should be limited only to the area of the seams. To do this, using a spatula, put putty in the gap between the joints of the plates. (flush), and at the same time they putty the places where the screws will be installed. Putty for CBPB is made in order to provide protection against corrosion. After the putty has dried, final puttying is done. To remove irregularities, the places where the slabs are laid are rubbed.
After the DSP joints have been sealed, they can be subjected to facade cladding further processing. To do this, preliminary priming is carried out with a primer composition. Priming is done with a brush or brush. Particularly carefully prime the cut edges of the slabs and the places that were cut out for pipes. After sealing the DSP joints, priming and other finishing work have been completed, you can begin painting and cladding. So, if you decide to tile with ceramic tiles, then DSP is exactly what you need. Because it provides a smooth surface and a very rigid structure that ceramic tiles require.
The same principle is used when processing inner surface cement particle board.
DSP - has excellent sound insulation properties. If used with DSP mineral wool, then they get quite effective remedy, which can protect against noise. If we consider the DSP from the outside fire safety, then according to GOST this material is assigned to the category of low-flammability.
DSP boards do not have a negative impact on the human body, as well as on the environment. natural environment. This is due to the components included in this slab. So, cement particle board can be safely used in the construction of modular houses.
In the first part of the article, we talked about the advantages of cement-bonded particle boards, a facade made of cement-bonded particleboard and the correct installation of this material on external walls. In this material we will answer the following questions:
- How to decoratively decorate a DSP facade with paint and plaster.
- How to beautifully close the joints of slabs in half-timbered style.
- How to make a facade for siding from DSP.
How and how to finish a facade from DSP
JeniaLu User FORUMHOUSE
I have experience working with DSP on facades. Paint is a normal solution, but due to its thin layer, it does not cover the joints of the slabs and fasteners well. I tried gluing it on cement bonded particle boards clinker tiles. The result is that 120 square meters fell off the façade. m.
DSP has smooth surface, therefore, classical methods of finishing slabs on the facade do not work.
So, the developer is faced with a choice of how to properly finish the DSP. The most important thing is the preparation of the seams, because... in case of hackwork, all the jambs will then appear on the facade. In the first article we already wrote that It is necessary to leave a deformation gap between the plates about 6-8 mm. Now the question arises: should the seam be open or closed? An open seam is, in most cases, not suitable for aesthetic reasons. In addition, you need to protect wooden block(vertical posts of the sheathing), on which the slab is attached, with waterproofing material.
If this is not done, the block exposed to rain and snow will begin to rot.
Another option is to cover the seam with a decorative strip - a strip. This option is most often used if the façade from DSP is stylized as a false frame.
Important: Decorative strips can be sawn from wood, DSP about 16 mm thick, or fiber cement siding with a wood-like texture. For example, this was done by a portal member with the nickname SergeyU, fastening layouts with a length of 3600 mm and a cross-section of 10x190 mm with four self-tapping screws.
Wooden strips open to all negativity atmospheric phenomena, over time it can twist and warp.
But this version of the facade is not for everyone. You should also remember that you need to lay out the flashings not as it turns out, but strictly in accordance (at least try) with the canons of real half-timbering, which is described in detail in our article.
Moreover, you need to figure out in advance in what order to fasten the slabs on the facade so that the seams run smoothly. Otherwise, then you will have to rack your brains on how to beautifully secure the bar if the DSPs are running apart.
Shek User FORUMHOUSE
I will express my opinion on how the majority imitate half-timbered structures on the façade. Take boards 10-12 cm wide and simply nail them to the walls. Such a fake literally hits the eyes. You don't need to be an expert to understand that this is the usual layout of boards on the facade. No aesthetics, no beauty. A real half-timbered structure is assembled from powerful timber with a cross-section of 20x20 or 25x25 cm. The frame is filled at the same level as the outer plane of the walls. If you make an imitation, then it should be from a board at least 15 cm wide, and it should protrude from the wall no more than 2 cm, or even better, flush. Then the appearance is normal, and the façade looks good.
Of course, making a beautiful pseudo-framework using DSP is not an easy task. A competent calculation and preliminary drawing up of a design project for the facade is required, which specifies exactly how to lay out the slabs so that the seams run symmetrically.
Let's consider a simpler version of false timber using the example of a house Lutsenko.
Lutsenko User FORUMHOUSE
My wife and I bought a plot on which there was a log bathhouse measuring 6x6 m. The first winter showed that it was cold in the house and the wind was blowing through it. We decided to insulate it, add a veranda, and at the same time make a façade from fiberglass board for half-timbering.
First, let's show what the house was like.
And what he became.
The renovation process was divided into a number of sequential steps:
1. Purchase of material.
2. Installation of sheathing.
3. Insulation and installation of hydro-wind protection.
4. Installation of DSP.
5. Priming and painting.
6. Manufacturing of flashings.
7. Installation of planks.
8. Final version.
Lutsenko
Each edge of the sheet was secured with 4 screws + 1 in the center. I calculated it so that all the screws were covered with strips. I drew the cladding diagram in Paint.
Size of DSP on the façade Lutsenko 3200x1200x10 mm. The holes in the slabs were drilled on the ground in advance. The sheets were sawed with a circular saw with a disk with carbide-tipped teeth.
It is necessary to cut slabs outdoors due to large quantities generated dust. It is best to install the DSP with an assistant, so as not to lift heavy slabs alone.
I made another version of pseudo-framework using DSP SSergeyA.
According to the user, he sealed the gap between the sheets as recommended by the manufacturer - laying a sealing cord with a diameter of 8 mm (with a gap of 6 mm). The cord (a rope made of foamed polyethylene) is recessed into the seam by 2-3 mm.
The top of the joint is sealed with elastic sealant.
The protruding layer of sealant is then smoothed with a spatula.
In this photo, the seam is sealed with tape, sealant and painted over with structural paint.
The elasticity of the material allows you to smooth out the stresses that arise in the seams of the prefabricated structure.
The sealant maintains insulation effectiveness when exposed to precipitation, high humidity and high temperatures.
Important: The heads of the screws are recessed 2 mm into the slab, and then all fastening points are also puttied with an elastic compound. The façade, dust-free, with roughness sanded and free of dirt, must be primed and then painted with structural paint.
The overlays were pre-cut to size from DSP, primed, painted and only then screwed on, and the heads of the screws were carefully painted over.
IN this project in places where flashings are used, the joints are sealed only with a plait, without the use of sealant.
A carefully prepared base, high-quality even cuts of slabs and strict adherence to the recommendations of material manufacturers are the key to a high-quality facade.
Besides coloring DSP, façade can also be finished with elastic plaster.
In this case, as with painting, if the seams are sealed using the “elastic band + sealant” technology, you can do without the use of decorative overlays and get a smooth, uniform wall with a beautiful texture.
DSP facade for siding
Judging by the reports of portal users, such a facade based on DSP is also popular.
But, having chosen this option, you should prepare in advance for a large amount of work on cutting cement-bonded particle boards.
XMAO025 User FORUMHOUSE
I like DSP, but I decided to do something more original and cut the slabs into “boards” using a circular saw, and then install them like siding.
After installing the facade, the user plans to prime it and paint it with acrylic paint.
In addition, when sawing fiber cement siding, you may end up with chips and scratches that will have to be painted over with expensive paint. You also get expensive scraps (the price of fiber cement siding in 2015 was about 930 rubles per 1 sq. m versus 200 rubles for DSP), which then, unlike DSP, cannot be put into use. Another argument that weighed in favor of cement bonded particle boards was that the width of fiber cement siding was 19 cm, and the user wanted “boards” on the facade about 31 cm wide. This reduces the number of horizontal planks, which means the speed of work increases, installation time is saved and the expenses.
The user estimated that it would be necessary to install one and a half times more fiber cement panels than “boards” cut from DSP.
As a result, the user loosened the slabs using circular saw, onto which I placed it through an adapter ring diamond blade from “grinder” (since these tools have different mounting diameters for saw blades).
Egor Shilov
I bought a 1 cm thick DSP with dimensions of 1250x3200 mm. I unrolled the slabs into 4 strips, about 30 cm wide, attached them to the sheathing and painted them in place. The façade fully justified itself; nothing fell off during use, and the paint did not peel off.
At the end of the article, we will present the economic benefits of such a facade, which were calculated by Yegor Shilov. So, costs for making homemade siding from DSP, which included: the cost of the slabs + their sawing + painting, including the purchase of paint - 480 rub. for 1 sq. m.
Let us remind you that fiber cement siding cost 930 rubles. for 1 sq. m. The total difference was 450 rubles. The façade area of the house is about 300 sq. m. m. The total savings were 135 thousand rubles.
You can learn all about facades based on cement bonded particle boards in the topic: facades made of cement-bonded particleboard, fastening, processing and finishing.
In the video there is an example correct installation « wet facade» for expanded polystyrene.
