How to insulate finished wood floors in your home. How to insulate a finished wooden floor in a frame workshop? What is the best way to insulate floors in a private house?

It is no exaggeration to say that interior flooring is the most used surface in the home. Children and animals spend most of their time there. To prevent diseases, in particular colds, you need to think about how to insulate the old floor in a private house. In addition, it will also help reduce heating costs.

What to consider before

Determine Initial Conditions

Cold air always accumulates from below, and warm water rises up, therefore, no matter how much you heat the house, if the floor remains cold, then it is almost impossible to achieve complete comfort. Before you start installation work, it is necessary to analyze several points:

  • What is the flooring made of? This could be a concrete screed on which the tiles are laid, perhaps it edged board.
  • If the floor is wooden, are there any pests in it?
  • Is mold visible in the corners and spreading from bottom to top?
  • Does moisture accumulate under the coating?
  • Is there space under the floor?
  • Would it be critical if we had to raise the level even a little?
  • Is there a basement downstairs? If not, what kind of covering is located under the floor.
  • Does it bend when walking?

There may be a concrete screed under the floor

The answers to these questions will determine whether the old coating can be used or whether it must be dismantled with the need for additional disinfection and isolation measures.

Choosing a method of insulation

So far developed a large number of types of insulation materials. To apply them the best way in specific conditions, it is important to become familiar with their weaknesses and strengths.

Expanded clay can be used as insulation

One of the methods of insulation, which has been used for quite a long time and does not lose its popularity, is the use of expanded clay. It is made from natural ingredients, and the manufacturing process involves firing a clay base. This material wins by the following parameters:

  • light weight;
  • possibility to choose the size of granules;
  • relatively low price;
  • resistance to moisture (does not collapse under its influence);
  • long lasting life time;
  • resistance to temperature changes;
  • resistance to fire.

The disadvantages include:

  • in some cases it is necessary to make a recess to ensure a sufficient layer;
  • fragility;
  • can draw in moisture, causing it to accumulate in the granules.

Styrofoam

If you choose polystyrene foam, you need to consider:

  • undesirable use in combination with wood flooring due to fire hazard;
  • instability to chemical and physical influences;
  • toxic when burned;
  • When insulating with foam plastic, it is important to calculate everything correctly so that the dew point does not remain under the floor.

Mineral wool

Many often have a choice between this material and mineral wool. For its manufacture they can use broken glass, quartz, rock or slag. If speak about positive qualities, that is:

  • excellent sound and heat insulation;
  • fire resistance (especially stone wool);
  • resistance to chemical exposure;
  • good vapor permeability;
  • high tensile strength (for some brands);

Some of the sad moments include:

  • inconvenience of installing glass wool (it is necessary to use clothing that will prevent it from getting on the body, as well as glasses, gloves and a respirator);
  • the possibility of compaction over time, which leads to the appearance of cold bridges;
  • the appearance of unpleasant dust;
  • Some types of this material absorb moisture well.

Penoplex

Penoplex is very similar in its characteristics to polystyrene foam. Has even greater thermal insulation. Can be used in any weather conditions. Also loves rodents and is afraid high temperature(with direct exposure). In some cases, insulation can be done using gypsum fiber. It is used in conjunction with dry screed. Filling cavities with polyurethane foam can be considered as a method. Under certain conditions, this can be done without removing the old floor.

Vermiculite

Vermiculite is an excellent, durable material that is resistant to moisture, but its cost is quite high, so not everyone can afford it for floor insulation.

The ideal solution there will be a combination of passive insulation with active underfloor heating. For the latter, a large number of species are available today, which include options for water and electrical basis.

Planning

Antiseptic for wood

In addition to calculating the amount of base material and necessary work, the questions at the beginning helped determine whether additional components would be needed:

  • If mold or mildew grows, you will need to additionally purchase an antiseptic composition.
  • If a shashel is discovered, the best option would be to replace the boards, since there is no one hundred percent guarantee that you will remove it, and dismantling the entire floor after finishing all the work will be very unpleasant.
  • If there is creaking and subsidence, you will need to carefully evaluate the condition of the joists. They may need to be replaced. To do this you will have to purchase additional lumber. It is possible to finally determine their actual condition only after dismantling the top layer facing material.

  • Waterproofing In the case of proximity to groundwater or another reason for a large accumulation of moisture, it is important to purchase waterproofing, in some cases it is better to use several layers.
  • For high-quality insulation, soil excavation will be required to a certain depth. Or you will simply need to replace sand or expanded clay that has already exhausted its service life (usually it ranges from 10 to 15 years). To accomplish this, you will need garbage bags.
  • If you are planning to install a heated floor, then you will need to purchase components depending on which option you have chosen. For water, you will need a metal-plastic or cross-linked polyethylene pipe, collectors, shut-off valves, as well as fastening materials. For electric, you can purchase ready-made mats.
  • For the screed you will additionally need reinforcement and binding wire.
  • To purchase the correct amount of material, you first need to calculate the area of ​​the room. To do this, the length is multiplied by the width. The resulting number will be our basis. For insulation, the thickness of the beams can be neglected, since it still needs to be taken with a small margin. The quadrature of the hydro- and vapor barrier will also be equal to the area; an overlap will need to be added to the final value, which should be 10-15 cm.

    When purchasing components for a heated floor, you can subtract the space that will be occupied by furniture.

    Execution of work

    Insulation with polyurethane foam

    If you are sure that the condition of the underground space is close to good. For example, under wooden base there is a concrete screed that can serve for many years, and the logs themselves lie on a cement base, then the work can be carried out without large-scale dismantling.

    • All furniture is removed from the premises and thoroughly cleaned.
    • Places that need to be protected are closed. construction film.
    • One board is removed between each of the joists.
    • The space is filled with polyurethane foam. It is necessary to move the hose so that all voids are filled.
    • Additional hydro- or vapor barrier is not required, because after hardening the base will perform all these functions.
    • When the foam has taken its shape and has completely dried, the boards are mounted back.

    Filling the underground space with ecowool

    Another option with availability good foundation under the floor - tear off all the boards, cover the entire area with a vapor barrier and lay insulation on top in the niches. If wood covering in perfect condition, and it is possible to raise the floor by 10 cm, then you can use the dry screed method. To implement it, the entire area is covered with a vapor barrier. The sheathing is installed from wooden beam, expanded clay or other filler is poured into the space. The base for the finished floor is laid on top and the final finishing is performed.

    In all other cases, which will be described below, the first two steps are repeated, after which you will need to remove the entire flooring. If there is dry fill under your floor, then the scenarios could be as follows:

    • Sand that may have become petrified over time must be removed. For this you will need construction bags. They are filled and taken out of the house.
    • When you know for sure that groundwater If they don’t come close, and you don’t plan to fill the screed, then the base that was under the sand is well compacted.
    • The surface is covered with a membrane or thick polyethylene film. The individual parts are laid with an overlap of 50 cm. The seams are taped with tape. It is necessary to provide turns on the walls that will reach the level of the future floor.
    • The resulting space is filled with expanded clay up to the joists, well leveled and compacted into all cavities.
    • A vapor barrier is attached to the logs so that there are recesses between the boards.
    • Insulation is placed in the gaps between the joists. In this case it will be perfect basalt wool.
    • From above, the entire space is again tightened using a vapor barrier. This must be done so that the insulation fiber particles do not fly apart over time.
    • Lay a base of plywood or OSB boards.
    • The finished floor is covered.

    Insulation is placed between the joists

    If you are planning to make a warm floor, then (this option from step 8 is also suitable when there is concrete base):

    • A recess is made to the size of the future screed plus insulation.
    • The base is well compacted and leveled.
    • The territory is covered with a hydrobarrier, as in the previous case (in this case it is possible to use bikrost or roofing felt).
    • The sheathing is made from reinforcement with a diameter of 8 mm. It is laid on the prepared surface.
    • Next, concrete is poured. At this stage, it is advisable to try to bring everything below the level; in order for this to work, it is first necessary to mount the beacons.
    • Compaction is carried out using a vibrator so that the concrete fills all the cracks.
    • After 3-4 weeks, when the slab becomes a monolith, you can proceed further.
    • The hydrobarrier is covered, and insulation is laid on it. You can use polystyrene foam or penoplex. It is fixed right through to the concrete.
    • The grid or guides for the pipe are installed, and the pipes are laid. If this is an electric option, then mats are placed on the insulation.
    • The finishing screed is poured and after 3 weeks it can be tiled.

    Heated floor scheme in a private house

    When you remove soil, you may see the need to strengthen the foundation. In this case, formwork is installed around the entire perimeter. The width between the boards should be 30-40 cm. A metal sheathing is laid inside and filled with mortar. Further work can be continued after complete setting and dismantling support system.

    If you are lucky enough to have a basement under your house, then the task becomes much easier.

    • The first thing you need to do is go down to the basement. First, the condition of the ceiling is assessed.
    • All cracks are sealed with plaster.
    • Next, the slab is sheathed using foam plastic or penoplex. Fastening is carried out with special umbrellas. The sheet is applied through it, a hole is made with a puncher, and inserted fastening material.
    • An adhesive composition is applied on top. Reinforcing mesh may not be used, since no one will hit with elbows or knees here.
    • On the side of the room, the floor is insulated using one of the methods listed above.

    In some old houses, a concrete screed is poured and linoleum is laid on it. If in this case it is possible to raise the floor, then the covering is simply removed, logs are installed, a hydrobarrier is laid, then insulation, everything is sewn up on top with sheet material, and the finishing is a matter of taste of the owner.

    As you can see, floor insulation can be done with your own hands. This requires a careful approach to the matter. It is impossible to consider all the options within one article, so you are free to combine methods or, based on the principles, do something of your own.

    Thus, as in this video, you can insulate the floor from below:

    You can see how to insulate an attic floor with sawdust below:

    It happens that the house, despite the excellent performance of the heating system, is still cool. This indicates that the room is losing heat. To restore a comfortable stay in the house, it is necessary to take measures and insulate the floors.

    Peculiarities

    Often in wooden or brick house with thick ceilings, you can feel the cold coming from somewhere below. High-quality thermal insulation will not only cost the home owner cheap, but will also allow you to achieve maximum comfort in your home.

    Advantages of using floor insulation systems in a private home:

    • Coolant losses will be significantly reduced, therefore, savings will be noticeable Money;
    • If you insulate the floor, the area of ​​the premises will be heated evenly;
    • Increased comfort in previously cold rooms;

    • The lower part of the room will become much warmer;
    • There will be no dryness in the air. Newest technologies will delay heat flow in the apartment;
    • There will be more free space, since the use of heating systems minimizes the number of radiators;
    • The heating process occurs faster, heat transfer increases;
    • Such systems have a long service life.

    Types of insulation

    All insulation materials can be divided into two categories: technological and those using heat-insulating materials. Technological types are divided into electric floors and water heating. TO electric floors includes infrared film, heating mats and heating copper cables, and for water heating - a pipeline system with water coolant.

    Insulation materials, which use heat-insulating materials, also come in several varieties:

    Oriented Strand Board (OSB)

    It contains natural ingredients (wood). Produced by pressing using wood chips (sawdust) and adhesive ingredients.

    There are four varieties:

    • OSB-1. The moisture resistance of this modification is quite low - less than 20%. This brand is intended for interior work and contains a minimum number harmful substances in the composition of glue;
    • OSB-2. Differs more robust construction and is used for covering elements of a dry room, because in a damp structure such material will be harmful to the human body;
    • OSB-3 and OSB-4. They are characterized by the greatest resistance to humidity and increased loads, but are the most toxic materials in this line.

    But, despite the danger of such material, its use is quite often practiced not only in Russia, but also abroad.

    Advantages of using this material:

    • Saving money. The cost of such products is quite low;
    • Easy to install. This material is very easy to cut and attach. It is lightweight, so there will be no special problems with its transportation;
    • Long service life;
    • Widespread use. This material has found application in wall cladding, roofing and flooring;
    • Correct installation is a guarantee of resistance to a variety of hazards: corrosion, moisture, the appearance of microorganisms.

    Mineral wool

    According to regulatory documents, this material includes glass wool, slag wool and stone wool.

    Glass wool fibers are tiny: the thickness is from 5 to 15 microns, and the length reaches only 50 mm. This structure allows it to be quite strong and elastic. When working with this material you need to be extremely careful - various dangerous situations may arise. For example, inhaling glass dust can damage your lungs, and if it breaks glass threads there is a high probability of getting them on the skin and eyes.

    Fibers produced from slag, or slag wool, have the quality of residual acidity. This has a negative effect on metal surfaces in damp areas. The material absorbs moisture well and is quite fragile. Not suitable for insulation of plastic and metal water pipes.

    Stone wool differs from slag wool in that it is not prickly, so working with such material is much safer. Its most common variety is basalt wool, which has the best characteristics and does not contain any mineral or binding components. It can be formed into rolls or sheets, or stuffed into mats. When heated above the permissible temperature, it does not burn, but only melts.

    Pros of use mineral wool:

    • Excellent sound insulation;
    • Low cost;
    • Long service life;
    • The ability to achieve maximum effect when waterproofing the base material;
    • Used for major repairs and construction of buildings.

    Expanded polystyrene

    This material is produced using natural or carbon dioxide, as well as polystyrene and styrene copolymers. Most of this material is used for insulation and is the most popular in this area.

    This product is divided into several types: pressless, pressed and extruded. Pressless is characterized by many heterogeneous structures. Absorbs moisture well. Marking: PSB S-X, where X is the designation of the density of the product.

    Pressed has sealed pores, due to which it is considered a reliable and high-quality thermal insulation material. It becomes dense and quite durable. Marked with the letters PS.

    Extruded, or penoplex, is similar in structure to pressed polystyrene foam, but its pores are much smaller. Marking – EPPS (XPS-X). The second letter X indicates its density.

    The following positions can be distinguished from the distinctive qualities of this material:

    • Thermal conductivity. Best performance thermal conductivity - in penoplex. The denser the material, the higher this indicator. Therefore, the lion's share of consumers choose penoplex insulation.
    • Vapor permeability. This characteristic varies in the range of 0.019-0.015 kg/ (m*h*Pa), whereas in polystyrene foam it is practically zero.
    • Moisture permeability. When a pressless insulation is completely immersed in water, absorption occurs in an amount of 4% of the volume of the material, and for the extruded version - 0.4%.
    • A product with medium or high density also has high strength characteristics.
    • Expanded polystyrene does not collapse when exposed to substances such as soap, soda, fertilizers, lime, and cement. Damage can be caused using turpentine, acetone, drying oil, some alcohols, varnishes, and petroleum refining substances.

    Advantages of the product when used:

    • Low thermal conductivity. For example: if you use polystyrene foam with a thickness of 120 mm, its thermal conductivity characteristics will correspond to a brick thickness of 210 cm or wood of 45 cm;
    • Light product weight. This material is convenient to use, since its low weight allows it to be installed and transported without assistance;
    • Waterproof. This material can be used as a waterproofing component, because it is resistant to moisture;
    • Resistance to deformation loads. The product has excellent compressive strength parameters. This allows it to be used for insulation and waterproofing under floor screed;
    • Resistance to temperature changes. Products made from polystyrene foam are resistant to cold and high temperatures;
    • Easy installation. An ordinary user can install, process the edges or trim part of the material; it is enough to have a knife at hand;
    • Low cost and reduced heat costs.

    Styrofoam

    This insulation is a foam structure containing air (98%) and polystyrene (2%).

    In the process of thermal insulation, several types of foam are considered suitable: polystyrene, polyurethane, polyvinyl chloride and polyethylene.

    For domestic needs, polystyrene foam is most often used.

    According to its form and structure, it can be divided into:

    • Sheet. Refers to universal types insulation, since it can be used for thermal insulation of walls, ceilings and floors. The dimensions of polystyrene foam of this modification can be varied;
    • In the form of balls. Used as backfill in various cavities;
    • Liquid. Another name for this insulation is penoizol. The purpose is the same as the previous type of foam.

    There are many advantages of its use: versatility, ease of installation, light weight, low cost, hypoallergenic and long service life.

    Izolon

    Is one of the latest developments in the construction industry, allowing you to maintain the comfort and warmth of your home.

    There are two main groups of such material: isolon PPE and isolon NPE. Izolon PPE is a cross-linked polyethylene foam with a transverse structure, and PPE is an extruded version, which differs from the previous one in its molecular physics and non-cross-linked structure.

    Advantages of this material:

    • High quality thermal insulation. For comparison: the characteristics of a thermal insulation material 1 cm thick are equivalent to 1 layer of brickwork, which allows further saving of free space;
    • Availability of waterproofing properties;
    • Protects against moisture and steam;
    • High performance noise absorption;
    • Strength;
    • Resistance to chemical reagents;
    • Long service life - over 100 years;
    • Reusability;
    • Elasticity and low weight characteristics.

    The disadvantages of using this material include high cost, the need to comply with installation technology, compliance with storage requirements and careful transportation.

    Penofol

    This product is roll material made of polyethylene foam with a layer of foil. The action of penofol is based on preventing convection due to polyethylene foam and increasing the parameters (up to 97%) of thermal reflection due to the presence of foil.

    Varieties of this product can be distinguished by markings, which are indicated by the letters:

    • A. This modification of the insulation is equipped with an aluminum foil surface on only one side. Can be used together with other types of material.
    • B. This version of penofol is used as independent material for insulation. It has a layer of foil in its structure that covers both surfaces of the product.
    • C. This category is easy to install, since it is equipped with a moisture-resistant self-adhesive surface on one side and a foil coating on the other.
    • ALP. This type additionally has a plastic film on the foil surface.
    • R and M. Product differs relief surface with layers of foil applied to one side.
    • Super NET. Used for thermal insulation of communications.
    • AIR. It is used to create air exhaust structures.

    Positive sides use of penofol:

    • Ease;
    • Easy installation;
    • This is an environmentally friendly material;
    • Fire resistance;
    • Low vapor permeability;
    • Low material cost.

    The disadvantages of penofol insulation include its softness, since any insignificant pressure can lead to damage to the material, poor adhesion and high electrical conductivity (you need to be especially careful with electrical wiring, since aluminum conducts electricity well).

    Expanded clay

    This type The material is produced in granules with a diameter of up to 5 cm. Rejected elements are crushed. Thus, there are three types of expanded clay: granules, sand and fine gravel.

    Advantages:

    • Environmental cleanliness;
    • Strength and durability;
    • Resistance to temperature changes;
    • Fire resistance;
    • Excellent thermal insulation and sound absorption qualities;
    • Affordable price.

    The disadvantages include the amount required for good thermal insulation. There should be a layer of at least 50 cm of such material.

    Expanded clay can be used to insulate floors made with concrete screed or boards on the ground, as well as on top of concrete. More this material found application in insulating the underground of a private house, as an addition to waterproofing, in insulating the floor on the loggia and the first floors with unheated basements.

    Right choice material for floor insulation country house should always be based on technical specifications products. They can be found on the product packaging.

    Below are the parameters that you should pay attention to when purchasing material:

    • Flammability coefficient. It is designated by the letter G. The most non-flammable material is marked G1. It ignites only upon direct contact with fire.
    • Water absorption coefficient. The unit of measurement is percentage. The lower this indicator, the less moisture it can absorb. Consequently, the material will degrade less and retain its properties better.
    • Coefficient of thermal conductivity. This indicator is responsible for thermal insulation premises. The lower it is, the warmer the room will be.

    • Density. Indicates how much heavier the floor structure will become. The higher this indicator, the stronger the ceiling and subfloor should be.
    • If the owner of the house plans not to spend too much on floor insulation, then you can use budget option. Extruded polystyrene foam is ideal for concrete floors. It is compatible with underfloor heating systems.
    • Expanded clay can also be used for floor screed. It will last quite a long time and can be used in multi-story buildings.

    There are a number of non-combustible insulation materials that have received worthy of attention among domestic buyers. The following brands are especially popular: Isover, Ursa, Knauf Insulation, Termolife.

    Non-flammable insulation materials also include materials based on flax, basalt, coconut and jute.

    Often a person, when doing a major renovation of a private house, thinks about insulating the veranda. But here you can also save on finances. For this you can use polystyrene foam and mineral wool. However, polystyrene foam tends to release life-threatening substances when burned - this should not be forgotten.

    To make the room truly warm, do not forget about insulating the attic floor. Suitable for wooden ones bulk option insulation - this will allow the roof to “breathe”. Heavy options in the form of slabs can be used by home owners if the ceiling is made of concrete, and for environmentally friendly pure materials You can use roll insulation.

    Old houses that were built at the beginning of the 20th century are distinguished by the fact that they have an earthen floor. It is also possible to insulate it, but before that you need to sweep it thoroughly and compact it. Next - according to technology: waterproofing in several layers, insulation, finished floor. Foamed polyethylene can be used as insulation.

    Thermal insulation of a wooden base

    Insulation of wooden floors is usually carried out using mineral wool along the joists. The old wooden floor is removed. After examining the boards, it is necessary to remove old paint, sand and treat them with antiseptic substances. After they dry, you need to lay them horizontally.

    Debris and dust from the rough base must be removed. Rotten logs need to be replaced, and the resulting structure needs to be treated with an antiseptic and allowed to dry. When laying dense polyethylene, it is advisable to insulate the joints with construction tape. Secure the waterproofing to the joists using a stapler.

    Then you need to cut the mineral wool and lay it tightly between the joists. Next, you should provide a layer of vapor barrier over the entire structure, connect the joints with tape and secure with a stapler.

    The next step will be laying the old boards and installing the baseboard. The protruding parts of the waterproofing must be cut off and then the coating must be painted.

    Insulation with expanded polystyrene should begin with the removal finishing. Then you need to inspect the base and check its level. If the height difference exceeds 1.5 cm per linear meter, it is necessary to level the base.

    Then you will need to remove debris and dust, as well as pour a cement screed of the required height and wait until it dries.

    We cut out polystyrene foam and lay thick polyethylene. We connect the edges of the canvas with tape, place it on the walls and secure it.

    The insulation must be laid in two layers. The first layer should be laid with ligation of vertical joints. The second - in the same way, only its location should be strictly above the seam of the first layer;

    We install a reinforcing mesh with a post height of 3 cm. Prepare the mixture for the screed. We concrete the base in parts, smoothing the compartments with a trowel and checking the level, waiting for drying (this process usually takes a whole month). We carry out finishing work.

    Insulation of concrete

    The downside of a concrete floor is poor thermal insulation. Therefore, in this case it is necessary to use insulation.

    Here are several ways to insulate a concrete floor in a dacha with your own hands:

    • The concrete floor is covered with expanded clay, and a screed is poured on top of it;
    • The mixture to create a screed is supplemented with fine-grained expanded clay or crushed polystyrene foam;
    • You can lay another layer of insulation on top of the poured screed. To do this, it is necessary to mount the bars, and from the inside make a layer of the selected material for insulation. Then lay a layer of vapor barrier and cover the top with boards or plywood;
    • Installation of any type of heated floor.

    In order to make a heated floor in a country house, it is best to use the services of a specialist. But in order to save money, people spend their time and effort on this.

    Below is given brief instructions for installing heated floors in your own home:

    • First, let's prepare a place for the collector. It is necessary for control temperature regime in room.
    • Preparation of roofing felt and others insulating materials– they will be required for the waterproofing layer. The first step is to roll them out onto the surface of the base. Laying should be done with an overlap of 10 cm.

    The joints are glued together. To do this, you can use high temperature exposure or tape.

    • Preparing the insulation layer. Typically high density foam is used. The layer should be at least 5 cm thick.
    • The next stage is vapor barrier. Dense polyethylene film may well fit. Laying is done with an overlap of 10 cm, after which gluing is done with tape.
    • A reflective film is placed on the resulting “pie” to direct the flow of thermal energy upward. It is placed on it reinforcement mesh with cells 150x150 mm.
    • Laying heating pipe circuits with maximum length 80 m is performed on top of the reinforcing mesh.
    • The pipes with the coolant must be secured using clamps to the mesh.
    • Bay finishing screed. Additionally, you can use a plasticizer - it will prevent the screed from cracking when heated.
    • The final stage is laying damper tape and finishing coating around the perimeter of the room.

    Errors

    Below are some points that should not be allowed during the process of insulating floors:

    • You cannot partially insulate a room if it requires major repairs;
    • If you have a conventional meter, it is unacceptable to use an infrared or water floor;

    • Cheap materials in most cases are harmful to health. They can not only cause allergies in humans, but also lead to undesirable consequences;
    • During the installation of a heated floor system, the heating circuits must not be kept empty while pouring the screed. There should be no heating;
    • It is prohibited to use foam polystyrene and polystyrene foam to fill the space between beams in wooden building which consists of several floors. When fastening the sheets, they are poorly insulated and therefore accessible to oxygen. Therefore, during the combustion process, fire can easily penetrate inside.

    Every person dreams of having own home. Everyone imagines the facade, interior decoration, number of rooms and furniture. But people don’t always think about insulation, but it provides comfortable living conditions. In suburban and urban construction, insulating the floor of a private house with your own hands will significantly save your budget during operation.

    Why do you need floor insulation?

    House heat loss diagram

    It doesn’t matter whether the building is wooden or stone house– insulating the floor with your own hands is equally important. It will allow you not to worry about safety load-bearing structures And high costs for heating in winter period. Insulation is especially important attic floor, since it is through it that strong heat losses occur.

    If there are cold bridges in the room, the temperature drops and condensation appears, which leads to the appearance of bacteria, mold and mildew that are dangerous to the human body. Constant exposure to moisture can significantly reduce bearing capacity designs. Thermal insulation ensures not only comfortable, but also safe living in a country house.

    Material selection

    To insulate the floor in a private house, you need to decide on the choice of insulation for the floors. The following can be used as thermal insulation materials:

    • mineral wool (more details in the article);
    • polystyrene foam or extruded polystyrene foam (you can learn more from the article);
    • polyurethane foam (article);
    • sawdust();
    • expanded clay (“”).

    Each of these materials has its own advantages and disadvantages, which you can learn more about using these materials. How to insulate the floor depends on the material of the floor structure and its location.

    Insulation methods

    There are three types of insulation placement: top, bottom and inside. These floor insulation options can be used for any floor, but it is worth considering that:

    • Insulation of the floor of the first floor below will become more efficient;
    • in the case of an attic floor, it is better to use the option from above;
    • for interfloor ceilings there is no fundamental difference.
    • It is most correct and convenient to insulate wooden floors from the inside. Read more in the article.

    In addition, floor insulation in a private house can be done under a screed. More details on this issue can be found in the article.

    The floor insulation in the house is sufficient important task, which will require a serious approach and additional investments, both labor and financial. But all efforts will pay off with the long service life of the building and comfortable living conditions.

    Types of insulated floors

    Before insulating the floor in a private house, you need to find out which structures require these measures. During construction you may need:

    • insulation of the floor on the ground when arranging a heated basement or basement;
    • insulation of the ground floor floor in the presence of a cold basement;
    • with an unheated under-roof space;
    • insulation of the floor of the first floor (with a heated basement) and interfloor ceilings for additional sound insulation.

    Work technology

    Regardless of where the floor insulation is located in the country house or in the house, you must remember the following rules:


    The work is carried out in the following order:

    1. preparing the base, cleaning from dirt and dust;
    2. if necessary, installation of logs;
    3. laying protection against moisture (vapor barrier or waterproofing depending on the location of the insulation);
    4. before starting work with polyurethane foam, it is better to moisten the surface with water from a spray bottle to ensure reliable adhesion;
    5. laying thermal insulation material;
    6. moisture protection layer;
    7. if necessary, pour a cement screed and wait for it to gain strength ( It’s better to wait two weeks; the screed will gain full strength only after 28 days);
    8. after completing all stages, you can begin laying the flooring (when considering the question of how to insulate the floor on the ground floor or the attic floor above) or the ceiling (installation of the material from below).

    It should be remembered that measures to provide additional thermal protection can be carried out not only in a new building. With time old material , if it exists, loses its characteristics and requires updating. It is better to replace it in time than to carry out expensive renovation work

    . The issue is also relevant for houses of old construction. It is better to carry out work to protect an existing building during the warm summer period. This will avoid inconvenience for residents and performers. In addition, some materials, for example polyurethane foam

    , require compliance with certain temperature conditions during the production process. In the past, our country did not pay a lot of attention

    saving thermal resources, which led to insufficient thermal insulation of most buildings. In this case, you can carry out insulation without damaging the interior decoration by choosing a convenient method. The insulation of a house can be characterized by the well-known stable expression: It's better to prevent than to treat. a large amount for repair work already in the first winter. At the same time, you will still need to protect the structures, otherwise the repair process will have to be repeated many times.

    At first, it will be possible to get by with only cosmetic measures, but after several years, damage to the main structures will begin, which will lead to the need for costly major repairs.

    Creating a cozy and comfortable atmosphere in your home is much more difficult than it seems. Low temperatures, cold floors and drafts are problems that many owners of private houses have to face. How better thermal insulation, the lower heating costs - this rule has been known for a long time. But how can you make your home more secure and warm? First of all, you need to take care of the floors. Remember how unpleasant it is to step on ice, how your feet freeze when sitting for a long time in a chair in the living room... All these symptoms of insufficient floor insulation can be eliminated in just a few hours. In this case, you do not need to seek help from professionals. Even the most inexperienced “home master” can cope with such work.

    What and how to insulate floors?

    Choice suitable material- the process is not easy. We recommend that you initially create list of requirements for insulation. For example, thickness, need for waterproofing, complexity of installation, etc. It is also necessary to take into account purpose of the premises: for kitchen, bathroom and bedroom you can choose different materials to achieve perfect insulation. But what properties do insulation have? What are their similarities and differences?

    Extruded polystyrene foam

    One of the best options for floor insulation in a private house. This modified type of expanded polystyrene differs from its predecessor in having a more closed structure. This dense and durable material is suitable for insulating floors on the ground, and it does not require a special concrete base. Extruded polystyrene foam can be laid directly on gravel or expanded clay.

    Advantages of this material:

    • minimal moisture absorption,
    • high level thermal insulation,
    • strength,
    • soundproofing,
    • reliability,
    • resistance to various biological organisms,
    • stability of size and shape,
    • ease of installation.

    And yet there is one obvious flaw, because of which this type of polystyrene foam is not very popular - high price.

    Expanded polystyrene

    But the price for this “simple” type is much lower. At the same time, almost all the advantages of the previous copy were preserved. Thermal conductivity is practically the same, hygroscopicity too. The only obvious " minus» expanded polystyrene is low strength. Sheets can break during delivery and installation, and they can also be affected by extreme load (heavy furniture in the room). We do not recommend that you use such insulation for garages and other rooms with high floor loads.

    Polyurethane foam

    Modern technologies make it possible to obtain insulation with necessary qualities right on construction site. To do this, it is enough to mix only two liquid components. The final result will be a solid polymer.

    Properties of polyurethane foam:

    • low thermal conductivity (both expanded clay and mineral wool are inferior to it),
    • high resistance to chemicals,
    • excellent sound insulation,
    • low flammability,
    • low moisture absorption (depending on the density of the material).

    Mineral wool

    This material considered the most popular type of insulation. There are many reasons for this:

    • low thermal conductivity,
    • good sound insulation,
    • resistance to moisture and fire,
    • relatively low cost,
    • long service life,
    • compliance (relevant under strong mechanical stress).

    The only disadvantage of mineral wool is installation: not very difficult, but quite troublesome. In addition, this material will require a suitable base.

    Expanded clay

    An excellent choice for those who want to insulate the floor once and for many years. Among advantages of expanded clay especially stand out:

    • durability,
    • resistance to high and low temperatures(does not lose its qualities and is not destroyed),
    • fire resistance,
    • excellent sound insulation,
    • low thermal conductivity.

    Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house: step-by-step instructions

    Modern technology for floor insulation involves the sequential execution of the following actions: preparing the base, laying waterproofing, creating and laying insulation, as well as finishing. This work will take time, take your time and do not change the order of actions.

    Preparation

    It is necessary to determine the surface topography and the required height of the future floor. The easiest way to do this is with an optical or laser level. After which you can begin compacting the soil.

    A sand layer forms on top. It must be a little higher than required ( permissible norm- up to 25%). The sand is compacted, then moistened and compacted again. The durability of the floor and its appearance, so we recommend that you approach this stage with special care.

    And then the last layer is laid - expanded clay or gravel.

    Waterproofing layer

    Using waterproofing materials, the future floor is protected from moisture. It will also help make a strong rough screed. There won't be any problems with this step. The material is laid overlapping to avoid gaps. All connections must be secured with construction tape. Be careful, cuts, holes and other damage to the material are unacceptable.

    Also remember that the insulation is laid with a small margin. The edges should rise along the walls by 20-25 centimeters. You can remove excess at the final stage.

    Rough screed and laying insulation

    A mixture of concrete and crushed stone will serve as another layer, which is laid on the waterproofing layer. It should be low (about 50 mm) and relatively flat (the permissible height difference is no more than 4 mm). Low requirements allow this layer to be made quickly, but it must still dry completely by the time the insulation is laid.

    The method depends on the specific material. Remember that some insulation may require additional vapor barrier.

    Finishing

    After this comes the turn of the finishing screed. It is already necessary to treat it carefully. You can use either the usual monolithic poured screed or a dry or semi-dry screed.

    IN classic version Horizontal guides are installed on the floor to mark the desired floor height. "Beacons" are leveled using building level. Sand-cement mixture laid on the floor and leveled “according to the beacons” using the rule.

    Do-it-yourself floor insulation in a private house: video

    Today they are back in fashion wooden houses: they are popular due to their environmental friendliness and excellent heat-saving qualities of wood. Warm house– this is not only comfortable conditions for residents and a tangible economic effect, but also people’s health. This is especially important when there are small children in the house who like to play on the floor. Therefore, for floor insulation in wooden house, special attention should be paid.

    Insulation of concrete floor

    If the foundation of a wooden floor is a monolithic structure made of concrete or rubble stone, then the base of the first floor floor may well be concrete. This material lasts a long time, but has good thermal conductivity, so the floor in a wooden house with a concrete floor will be cold.

    In this case, floor insulation is carried out various methods. The most common one is expanded clay concrete screed. The structure of expanded clay consists of many small air chambers separated by thin partitions. Thanks to this structure, expanded clay has low thermal conductivity and is a good insulator.

    Another method of insulation involves the use of slabs of extruded polystyrene foam or polystyrene foam. In any case, the material is chosen by itself high density. On concrete slab First, a moisture-proofing film is laid, then insulation is laid on top of which cement-sand screed, the minimum thickness of which is 50 mm. A reinforcing mesh is laid in the middle layer of the screed. A floor covering is laid on top of the screed, which can also be insulated.

    But first of all, all “cold bridges” should be eliminated: they are formed if the ends of the floor slabs are not protected from exposure to cold air. To avoid the transfer of cold into inner space houses, the ends of the slabs or even the entire base are insulated using polystyrene foam, which is secured using bitumen mastic and special dowels. Protect the surface of such insulation decorative plaster or facing material.

    To ensure reliable adhesion of the finish to polystyrene foam, a plaster mesh is used.

    The floor in a wooden house is most often also made of wood: boards with a thickness of at least 40 mm are laid on logs made of thick timber, laid in increments of 0.5...1 m. The underground space of a wooden floor must be ventilated: this is a necessary condition for better preservation of the boards. However, because of this, the floor, despite the good thermal insulation properties of wood, can be cold. To create more comfortable living conditions, it is necessary to insulate the floor in a wooden house.

    The entire work consists of three stages: installation of the subfloor, laying of thermal insulation material and then installation of the finishing floor covering. Waterproofing material not used, since ventilation of the underground space prevents the accumulation of condensate. But joists and the underside of floorboards must be treated with an antiseptic: this significantly increases the service life of the material. Thermal insulation material is laid on top of the finished floor. Then, maintaining a gap of 100... 150 mm, the finishing floor is laid. The thermal insulation material is pressed tightly against the subfloor.

    Another option provides a gap of 10... 20 mm between the heat insulator and the subfloor. This is not easy to do and will require additional costs, but as a result, the effectiveness of thermal insulation increases significantly.

    To combat rodents penetrating into the underground space, it is used metal grid with small cells, which is stretched onto the subfloor.

    Requirements for thermal insulation materials

    To insulate the floor in a house built of wood, it is necessary to use thermal insulation materials with stable performance characteristics. They must be resistant to mechanical stress and at the same time easy to cut. These requirements are fully met by polystyrene foam and heat insulators based on mineral materials.

    Mineral wool has sufficient strength and is a good sound and heat insulator, but its use requires the installation of a waterproofing layer. Otherwise, moisture accumulating in the material will cause a deterioration in its thermal insulation qualities and the spread of various bacteria and mold fungi.

    Expanded polystyrene boards are more suitable as insulation. They do not rot, do not absorb moisture and can easily withstand mechanical stress that occurs during operation. Slabs with a thickness of at least 200 mm are used, which are secured using foam sealant: all cracks and joints are sealed with it: sealing is a necessary condition for high-quality insulation.

    The last stage is the installation of the finished floor covering. The best material is wood-based: for example, parquet boards, piece parquet. But due to the high cost of such coating, linoleum is more often used on warm basis and laminate laid on a cork backing. This also helps to insulate the floor in a wooden house, resulting in more comfortable living conditions.