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Waterproofing the floor in a bathhouse is a responsible event, which is planned during the construction stage.

It is known that high humidity has negative impact to the inner decorative finishing and structural parts of the building as a whole.

That's why important task waterproofing - ensuring timely removal of water and excess moisture from the main rooms of the bath - steam rooms and showers.

Whatever type of floor is provided in the bathhouse - wooden or concrete, penetrating or waterproofing materials are used for their treatment.

Penetrating and traditional type of waterproofing

Waterproofing materials for bath floors are divided into two categories: traditional and penetrating.

Traditional

Waterproofing of this type is divided into two groups: coated and glued.

Coating

It is represented by a wide range all kinds of materials– mastic, pastes, dry and ready-made mixtures. They all differ in chemical composition, area of ​​use, application method, hardening speed and cost.

• Cement-polymer mixtures for universal use. They are applied in several layers onto a pre-installed reinforcing mesh. Harden within 5 days;
• Cement mixtures with organic additives having similar characteristics;
• Quick-drying liquid polymer mastics. It takes 5-8 hours to completely harden;
• Bitumen-polymer mastics and mixtures consisting of bitumen and synthetic components. They do not require any installation and can be used directly under the tiles.

The main advantage of coating materials is their unique moisture-proof characteristics, but the disadvantage is their higher cost compared to rolled waterproofing options.

Adhesive

This type of waterproofing is represented by roll materials in the budget and mid-price segment.

Rolled insulation is a durable and flexible base made from fiberglass, fiberglass or polyester material treated with bitumen impregnation.

It can be self-adhesive and weldable. In the first option, the inner side is treated with a special glue, in the second option, the inner side requires pre-heating.

Important advantages of this material are ease of installation, strength, wear resistance and low cost.

Among the disadvantages are the sharp chemical smell of bitumen and the demands on the evenness of the surface on which the insulation is laid.

Traditional floor waterproofing provides a reliable protective waterproof layer, while reducing the height of the room to 5-7 cm.

Penetrating

This type of insulation is more effective for protecting floors in bathhouses. Penetrating waterproofing compounds are:

• Concreting. They have a dense consistency and are resistant to low temperatures, frost and high humidity. Used for concrete floors;
• Cement inorganic. Such compositions are used for floor finishing materials in rooms with high humidity - in steam rooms and showers;
• Cement polymer. Eco-friendly, practical, wear-resistant, characterized by a high degree of adhesion to the floor base;
• Seamless. The most popular type of waterproofing. It is used for all bath rooms and ensures that the floor is kept warm.

Drainage device in the bathhouse

To ensure quick and timely drainage of water in the working areas of the bathhouse, it is important to consider the correct water drainage. The main purpose of the drain is to protect the interior finishing of the floor and foundation of the building from rotting and destruction, as well as to prevent the appearance of mold and musty odors.

Instructions for wooden floor

Waterproofing a wooden floor allows you to extend its service life and ensure effective protection from high humidity.

Measures for waterproofing such a floor are carried out simultaneously with internal and facade insulation.

When choosing a suitable waterproofing material, it is important to consider the types of wood coverings.

Leaky and non-leaky coatings can be used for baths.

In a leaky foundation, water is discharged through floor cracks into the soil layer under the building, in a non-leaking foundation, through a special drainage hole.

Waterproofing a wooden floor is carried out in the following sequence:

1. Laying floor joists at level and installing a drainage system;
2. Arrangement of a thermal insulation layer. Used as a heat insulator mineral wool, glass wool and polystyrene foam. To limit the ingress of moisture onto the thermal insulation layer, it is waterproofed.
3. For waterproofing, you can use rolled roofing felt, laid in several layers and treated with liquid bitumen. A reliable waterproofing material for wooden bath floors is euroroofing felt.
4. The last stage is flooring. For wet rooms in the bathhouse, it is recommended to choose coniferous wood that has been pre-treated with antibacterial compounds.

Features of waterproofing a concrete floor with your own hands

Concrete bases are suitable for steam rooms and showers. The service life of floors is about 20 years.

Despite their strength and wear resistance, concrete floors also require high-quality and reliable waterproofing.

Work on arranging the waterproofing layer is carried out after the concrete mixture has completely dried and a screed of cement and sand 18 cm thick has been applied.

Waterproofing concrete floors is done in two ways.

First way

Provides preparation of the floor base to obtain a perfectly flat surface without lumps, depressions and holes.

Next, a liquid waterproofing agent - mastic - is applied in several layers, on top of which rolled roofing felt or dense polyethylene 100 microns thick is laid. Finally, the floor is tiled with ceramic tiles or porcelain stoneware.

Second way

Requires more complex installation work.

Preliminary to floor base Moisture-resistant plywood is attached, on top of which waterproofing material is laid with an allowance for the walls and fixed with special tape.

Installed on top of the waterproofing reinforced mesh and the concrete mixture is poured. Finally, work is carried out on decorative cladding floor.

High-quality and reliable waterproofing of the floor in the bathhouse ensures the correct microclimate in the premises, protects structural elements from destruction and allows you to increase service life building.

High humidity and high temperature, characteristic of the microclimate of a Russian bath, negatively affect the service life of the structure. Measures to create waterproofing are relevant for structures made of all types of building materials, but especially for wooden baths. Moreover, everything needs to be waterproofed structural elements– foundation, walls, floor, ceiling. Poor quality work on bath waterproofing will cause the formation of fungus and mold inside the room in a few years.

Methods of foundation waterproofing

Waterproofing the foundation begins with installing a drainage layer underneath it. A 20 cm thick cushion of compacted gravel and sand serves as such a layer. It will prevent the formation of stagnant water under the foundation. Formwork is installed on the drainage pad and the foundation is poured. Immediately after the concrete mixture hardens, the foundation is waterproofed - horizontal and vertical.

Reliable protection of the foundation from the destructive effects of moisture is guaranteed only in the case of high-quality joining of horizontal and vertical waterproofing.

Horizontal waterproofing protection is carried out with two or three layers of roofing material laid on the surface of the foundation. When building a bathhouse, it is recommended to use at least three layers.

Vertical waterproofing is more difficult than horizontal waterproofing. It starts at the level of the base of the foundation, and at the top it joins with the horizontal waterproofing layer. There are several technologies for vertical waterproofing of the foundation:

• For adhesive waterproofing, traditional fused bitumen-polymer roll materials or polymer membranes. The main difference between membrane materials is the lack of continuous adhesion to the base. Due to this, the safety of the membrane depends little on deformations individual parts and structures in general. The material can be mounted on a damp base. The LOGICROOFT-SL membrane produced by TechnoNIKOL contains stabilizers that give it biological resistance and resistance to weak alkali solutions and inorganic acids, salt solutions. To protect the membrane from contact with fats, oils, solvents, bitumen and some polymeric materials, heat-treated needle-punched geotextiles of the TechnoNIKOL brand are used.
• Coating waterproofing effectively protects the foundation from capillary moisture. Can be performed with bitumen or bitumen-polymer mastics. The resulting coating is seamless and can be applied manually or mechanically (by spraying). Before starting waterproofing work, the foundation is cleared of debris and dirt, and defects are rubbed down with cement-based building mixtures. The waterproofing composition is applied in layers, the number and thickness of which depend on the depth of the foundation. The next layer is applied after the previous one has dried (the surface should not be sticky).

Using polymer mastics The surface requirements are less stringent than when using bitumen compositions. The humidity of the base can reach 8%. To check the readiness of the surface for work, lay polyethylene film over an area of ​​1 m2. If condensation does not appear on it within 24 hours, proceed to applying the waterproofing compound.

To increase the adhesion of the concrete base of the foundation and coating insulation, a primer is used - a type of primer designed to prepare the surface for application. coverings. In this case, the primer used is one purchased from finished form or a self-made bitumen primer. The primer must match the composition of the mastic used.

Plaster waterproofing is performed using mineral cement mortar, including additives to increase moisture resistance. The total thickness of the plaster waterproofing layers can be 22 mm.

When building a bathhouse in close proximity to a reservoir, the quality of waterproofing work plays a particularly important role.

After completion of waterproofing work, the pit along the outer perimeter is covered with rich clay, which serves as an additional waterproofing layer.

Waterproofing bath walls

To waterproof bathhouse walls, they are increasingly using not roofing felt and bitumen compounds, but more modern foil materials. Along with waterproofing, they provide steam and thermal protection. Such waterproofing materials are easy to install and practically do not reduce the area of ​​the room. The type of foil material is selected depending on the purpose. Products based on kraft paper are intended for steam rooms. For the dressing room and rest room you can choose penofol, isokom, isolon.

Waterproofing and vapor barrier materials based on kraft paper coated with aluminum alloy foil can reduce steam loss, reduce heat loss through wall structures (the reflective ability of aluminum foil is more than 95%), and prevent moisture accumulation in the walls. The material does not contain polymer components, which makes it possible to use it at dry steam temperatures of more than 100°C.

Technology of waterproofing works using foil materials:

• A block with a cross section of 40x40 mm is nailed vertically to the wall.
• Between the beams there is insulation 40 mm thick.
• Foil material is laid on top of the beams and secured to the beams using a construction stapler.
• To join the sheets, use special aluminum tape.
• On top of the foil material, slats or bars are nailed to bars with a cross section of 40x40 mm.
• A clapboard - a facing board - is attached to the vertical beams.

The bottom boards of the lining are not nailed down, so that after waterproofing the floor it is possible to insulate the junction of the waterproofing materials of the floor and walls.

Methods of waterproofing bath floor protection

After completing the work on waterproofing the walls, they move on to measures for waterproofing the floor, the technology of which depends on the floor material.

A concrete floor is usually installed in the steam room and washing room, since wood will rot too quickly due to high humidity.

Waterproofing a concrete floor is carried out in one of the following ways:

• Coating waterproofing is the most popular way to protect the floor from moisture. The surface is leveled to an ideal state, mastic is applied - bitumen or polymer. If, according to the instructions, it is necessary to apply several layers, then they are applied perpendicular to each other.
• The second option is to install adhesive waterproofing. Plywood is attached to the subfloor, on which waterproofing is laid. This is a waterproofing material made from asbestos or asbestos-cellulose cardboard impregnated with petroleum bitumen. The edges of the waterproofing are placed on the walls, which is why the lower boards of the lining were not attached. The junction of the waterproofing material and the wall foil material is insulated with aluminum tape. A reinforcing mesh is laid on the waterproofing and a cement screed is poured. In order not to stain the lining with cement mortar, the bottom boards are protected with construction tape. Lay on top of the screed floor tiles. If the bathhouse is built of logs, the floors can be poured only after one or two years of shrinkage of the log house. If you carry out this work earlier, the floors will crack.

Almost ideal floor waterproofing can be achieved if an additional layer of coating waterproofing is applied over the cement screed.

The edges of the waterproofing laid on the floor are placed on the walls

If the floor is made of wood, then waterproofing protection is a matter of paramount importance, since this material has extremely low resistance to moisture. There are two options for installing wooden floors in a bathhouse - they can be leaky or non-leaky. Depending on the type of floor, the technology for its waterproofing is selected.

• Leaking floors are classified as cold floors and are used only in the southern regions. This design allows for the free flow of water through the cracks between the boards and its release outside or absorption by the soil, which depends on the type of soil. The advantages of such floors are limited to the simplicity and low cost of their installation. To extend the service life of a leaking floor, the logs are treated with a special antiseptic against rotting, the supporting platforms for the logs are waterproofed with glassine or roofing felt, and the floorboards themselves are treated with drying oil at least twice. In the underground it is necessary to provide effective ventilation, thanks to which the floors will dry quickly.
• Floors that do not leak are more difficult to construct, but have important advantage- they are warm. Such a floor is arranged with a slope of 10° towards the center, where the drain hole is located. Support beams are stuffed onto the logs, a subfloor is laid on them, and then polyethylene or roofing felt in 2-3 overlapping layers. The edges of the roofing felt are coated with hot bitumen, and the polyethylene joints are insulated with tape. A heat-insulating layer of loose expanded clay or glass wool mats is placed on top of roofing felt or polyethylene. To waterproof the insulation, roofing felt is used, laid in two or three layers, coated with hot bitumen.

A gap must be left between the waterproofing and the finished floor to ensure effective ventilation.

Ceiling waterproofing

The technology for waterproofing ceilings is similar to protective measures for walls.

TO rough ceiling the beams are nailed, between which the insulation is placed. Foil-coated waterproofing material is fixed to the beams with the metallized side facing the inside of the room.

Another row of beams is nailed on top of the waterproofing material, to which the lining is attached.

Beams or boards are nailed onto the waterproofing layer, serving as the basis for a finished ceiling made of clapboard boards.

Instructions for complete waterproofing of a bathhouse on video

Despite the complexity of complex waterproofing work, it is this approach that will protect the structural components of the bathhouse from the destructive effects of moisture. For waterproofing measures, it is recommended to use only high-quality materials.

The Russian bath has long been famous throughout the world for its rich, moist steam. The body rejoices in such conditions, all fatigue and malaise disappear without a trace, and then all toxins and dirt leave the body. But this valuable high air humidity is not at all useful for the material from which the bathhouse is built - neither for wood, nor for brick, and certainly not for cellular concrete. Therefore, in order for your favorite steam room to serve faithfully for a long time, its waterproofing must be well thought out - the bathhouse floor, walls, ceiling and especially the foundation.

Features of foundation waterproofing

First of all, it is necessary to protect from external and internal moisture foundation. And for this, a layer of sand is poured into the hole where it will be laid. After that, the formwork is placed and the concrete solution is poured. And only then comes the turn of bitumen waterproofing solutions, on top of which reinforced concrete slabs are laid.

But that is not all. After all, how long the bathhouse itself will serve intact and safe depends on how protected the foundation is from moisture.

As they say, water wears away stones, and destructive impact Over time, it can easily lead to distortion of the entire building and unpleasant odors in the steam room and relaxation room. And high-quality waterproofing of the bathhouse foundation is done with high quality and with your own hands.

So, it comes in two types: vertical and horizontal. Vertical is carried out between the foundation and the level where it can already fall or splash rainwater. Such waterproofing in the bathhouse should be ensured at the design stage. But horizontal waterproofing of bathhouse walls is used to protect them from the so-called capillary absorption of moisture. It is provided from several layers of bitumen roofing felt. Moreover, they usually make two types horizontal waterproofing- the first is under the basement floor, and the second is at the support points of the walls on the foundation slabs. And the last thing to do is to ensure a reliable connection between the vertical and horizontal insulation at their joints and the floor area.

How to protect the walls of a bathhouse from dampness?

To protect the walls of the bathhouse today, reflective waterproofing is used, which is both thermal insulation and vapor barrier - three in one. It is made of foil material, which consists of a foam base and foil. The thickness of such waterproofing does not exceed one centimeter.

These are isokom, isospan, isolon and penofol, which are designed specifically for a bath - but only for the washing department, sauna and relaxation room, but for the steam room you already need another one. This is also a foil reflective material, but only based on kraft paper - it is intended for waterproofing and vapor barrier in steam rooms where the temperature is quite high: Izospan FB and Finnish Alupap 125.

And such waterproofing is attached quite simply, the only thing is that it turns out to be a foil surface inside the steam room. And for complete tightness, all joints of the layers must be glued with aluminum tape, leaving an air gap of at least 15 mm thick - between interior decoration steam rooms and thermally insulated baths. And so that condensation at the junction of the walls and the floor in the steam room can escape freely, it is necessary to leave a small outlet for the canvas itself. To do all this, an ordinary construction stapler and metallized tape will be enough.

After all this, you can begin to attach a wooden sheathing to the fixed foil waterproofing, on which the lining will be mounted.

Waterproofing a bathhouse floor in 8 steps

So, as soon as a hole for the drain pipe is installed in the steam room, you can begin waterproofing the floor. The most optimal and proven option is this:

• Step 1. Plywood is attached to the subfloor with screws.
• Step 2. Waterproofing is placed on top of the plywood - and so that its edges fit under the lining on the walls (which is why their lower boards were not nailed tightly to the joists before).
• Step 3. All waterproofing joints must be welded using a construction hair dryer.
• Step 4. Those edges of the waterproofing that are wrapped behind the lining must be sealed along the entire length with gray construction tape.

• Step 5. A steel reinforcing mesh is placed on the waterproofing, in which a cut has been made in advance for the drain neck of the bath sewer.
• Step 6. After laying the mesh, the entire perimeter of the lining at the bottom needs to be glued with two strips of white tape - so that the lining itself does not get dirty with the solution when pouring the cement screed. The threshold of the doorway is also glued with the same tape.

• Step 7. A high-quality cement screed is poured and dried. allotted time. An important point: the screed can only be done if the frame of the bathhouse has already collapsed, and this is a year and a half after its construction.
• Step 8. After the screed has hardened, the tiles are laid using a special waterproof tile adhesive.

We create a barrier to moisture on the ceiling

The oldest and most proven method of waterproofing a bathhouse ceiling is to fill it with greasy clay and sawdust. Cheap and cheerful, but only if the attic space will not be used as a living space or as a billiard room. But today, when everyone is valued in the bathhouse square meter, glassine and glassine are increasingly used as waterproofing materials. special film, which allows steam to pass through.

And when building a bathhouse, one should not forget about waterproofing the roof - the most common vapor barrier film. And that's it! Such a steam room will serve faithfully for your great-great-grandchildren.

If the territory suburban area allows you to build a bathhouse - there is no doubt about it. It’s worth, perhaps, even postponing other plans, but finding the strength and means to build this structure. In order for it to last a long time and be as comfortable as possible, you will need reliable warm walls, a well-thought-out water supply and drainage system, appropriate heating equipment (stove or boiler), and a concrete floor in the bathhouse.

For the owner country house Having your own bathhouse at your disposal is by no means some kind of unnecessary whim, but a completely reasonable approach. The bathhouse has always been considered not only and not so much as a place for taking hygienic water procedures. A visit to her is always a source of energy for the coming days, a burst of vital activity, getting rid of accumulated negativity both physiologically and psychologically. And how many pleasant minutes do “get-togethers” with friends or girlfriends give in a warm dressing room for a discussion? latest news or rumors, or watching a football match! But in order for the bathhouse to really turn into a kind of “club of interests” or “therapeutic and preventive center”, a lot of work will have to be put in. And installing reliable and comfortable floors is one of the main conditions for success.

If we consider in detail the question of what floors are generally possible in a bathhouse, then all options can be divided into three large groups:

• Clay - used since ancient times. The dense compacted layer of clay served as an excellent water seal, which organized the flow outside the bathhouse. In order to by The llamas could move freely; a wooden flooring was used, which was taken outside for ventilation and drying after each use. (similar wooden flooring are actively used now, with almost any type of flooring in the bathhouse).

Nowadays, when it is possible to use more advanced materials for flooring, clay flooring is no longer used by almost anyone.

• Wooden floors. It would seem that everyone is good for a bath, especially if you use wood of those species that are not afraid of prolonged contact with water (for example, larch). Such floors are quite easy to install, quite warm, and it is not difficult to organize a water drainage system in them. But wood and water remain “antagonists” in any case.

Any wood is always a breeding ground for many microorganisms, insects and rodents. This is combated by impregnating wood with special compounds, but in this case the environmental friendliness of the material is reduced. It is never possible to completely get rid of water absorption by wood, and dampness is the first step to the emergence of putrefactive processes leading to decomposition of the material. Even if a particular type of tree is quite resistant to this, there is still no escape from its absorption of odors, which become very persistent and unpleasant over time.

• Concrete floors - perhaps this the most optimal option. There is no need to talk about durability compared to others. With proper preparation of the base and high-quality filling, they will last a very long time - the period is comparable to the duration of operation of all other elements of the bath structure, and may even exceed it.

There may be objections - they say that the concrete floor is too cold. And what prevents you from giving it reliable thermal insulation in this case - there are a lot of options for its design. In addition, a heating system can be installed in the thickness of the concrete floor, which is turned on as needed.

The concrete floor is also distinguished by its high versatility - if you do not want to leave a bare surface, you can lay on top of it any type of covering suitable for the conditions of the bathhouse - tiles or porcelain stoneware, stationary or easily removable wooden flooring, which is easy to take out from time to time for preventive drying.

So, everything speaks in favor of a concrete floor. You can move on to considering options for its arrangement. It can be laid directly on the ground, or raised above ground level, with a ventilated subfloor.

To begin with, consider a water drainage system

The main feature of a concrete floor in a bathhouse is the need for drainage large quantity water. This, firstly, involves ensuring the required slope, and secondly, a well-thought-out drainage system.

• The simplest solution, which, however, is applicable only on light sandy soils with high absorbing capacity - absorption pit. It can be dug directly under the washing room of the bathhouse - there the water will be collected in one pipe and drained down. The pit itself is about 500 ÷ 1000 mm deep, and with approximately the same side dimensions. The resulting volume is filled with large crushed stone, fragments of broken brick, sand, etc. – so that the filler does not interfere with the free passage of liquid. To prevent the pit from becoming a source of unpleasant stagnant odors, it is imperative to provide a ventilation system for it, leaving vents (vents) in the base with the possibility of through air flow.

• A more reasonable option would be to move such a pit beyond the foundation, and if it is dense or clay soils this will be the only possible solution. In this case, only a pit is installed under the drain, from where the water will be drained through a pipe system into an absorption pit or drain. If the site is equipped with a sewerage system with water purification in a septic tank, then it is best to install the bath water drain there. The only thing that needs to be done is to organize a water seal so that odors do not penetrate into the bathhouse.

A small hole is also dug for the waste pit, so that after cementing the walls and bottom, its dimensions on all three sides are about 300500 mm. A pipe is built into one of the walls to drain water by gravity into drainage system. The pit itself can be covered with a metal grill. Do not forget about the possibility of its ventilation - leaving air vents in the base is necessary.

• The listed methods are used when the floor is raised above the ground. If the concrete floor of the bathhouse will be poured directly onto the ground, then you need to think through the drainage system in advance so that those installed in in the right place the pipes were immediately embedded in the screed. There is no need for a pit then - water will be drained directly from the washing room directly into the drainage system. This method is universal; it can also be applied to a pile construction of a bathhouse.

Installation of a concrete floor in a bathhouse on the ground

This method is used when the entire structure of the bathhouse is supposed to be placed on a solid strip foundation. The work is carried out in several stages.

After the device strip foundation you can proceed to work on the concrete floor of the bathhouse

• To begin with, in the space between the finished foundation, the top layer of soil is removed to a depth of about 400 ÷ 500 mm.
• A preliminary backfill is made with gravel up to 150 mm thick, which is compacted with maximum care. It is advisable at this stage to begin planning the slope of the surface towards the drainage hole in the future floor, in order to greatly simplify your task later.

Further actions depend on how many layers of concrete screed you plan to lay. This way you can fill one screed, or make a “layer cake”, where there are two layers concrete surface will be separated by a layer of insulation.

• In the first case, a sand layer with a thickness of 300 to 500 mm is laid on the gravel backfill, which will also require careful compaction.
• The next stage is the installation of a waterproofing layer on top sand cushion. For this purpose they use roll material- roofing material, which is laid in one or two layers, with a mandatory overlap of each sheet by 100 mm and additional coating of joints and entrances to the basement walls with bitumen mastic. If roofing felt is laid in two layers, then the second should be perpendicular to the first.

Fully covered layer of waterproofing - with a slight “approach” to the walls

• To prevent the floors in the bathhouse from being cold, the next step will be laying thermal insulation material. For this purpose, ordinary slag from the boiler room can be used - sometimes this is the cheapest option. Expanded clay has excellent performance - it is much lighter, and its thermal insulation efficiency is even higher. You can lay construction felt impregnated with tar - this is a long-known insulation technique. Mineral wool slabs will cope well with this task. high density. The use of expanded polystyrene is somewhat questionable, but it is often used.
• The thermal insulator layer depends on the climatic conditions of the region - it should prevent the penetration of cold from the ground into the bathhouse in winter. Typically it ranges from 300 to 500 mm. The laid insulation must extend slightly up the walls so that a “cold bridge” does not create at the junction of the floor and walls.
• If mineral wool is used as insulation, then another layer of waterproofing is required, for which you can cover it on top with dense polyethylene film - one whole sheet, or with overlaps of 200 ÷ 250 mm with mandatory sealing with wide tape.

  mineral wool insulation

• Next, a reinforcing mesh is laid, for which a Ø 5 mm rod should be used.
• A system of beacons and guides for pouring screed is installed taking into account the required slope towards the drain. It will be much more convenient to place the drain hole in one of the corners of the room. If you do it in the center, the configuration of the slopes will turn out to be quite complex in execution.
• The minimum thickness of the finished concrete screed to be poured must be at least 30 mm. As a solution, you can use ordinary cement-sand mixture in proportions 1: 3 (with M400 cement). However, a wide range of modern construction stores It also allows you to select ready-made dry mixtures that are perfectly adapted to rooms with high humidity. Their advantages are much shorter final ripening times, excellent plasticity, facilitating pouring processes and eliminating the appearance of voids in the thickness, micro reinforcement fiberglass, which gives the floors special strength.
• If you manage to fill the screed with high quality, with a well-leveled surface, then after it has fully gained strength, it can already serve as a basis for laying ceramic tiles on it. However, many prefer, after appropriate procedures for hardening the concrete surface, to leave the coating as it is and use removable wooden flooring through which water in the washing room freely passes into the drainage system. It is easy to dry the wooden grates themselves in the fresh air from time to time.

If you plan to pour a concrete floor in two layers, then the sequence of work changes slightly:

• Primary pouring is carried out directly over the sand and gravel bed, with the obligatory inclusion of concrete mortar gravel of a fairly coarse fraction - about 30 mm. Rough screed it is pulled out along the beacons, and then it is given time to completely harden.
• Waterproofing is installed on top of the hardened rough screed - in the same way as described above.

  roofing felt

• Next, lay a layer of insulation. Again, the options here may be different, but one of the most successful and durable will be the inclusion of a layer of expanded (perlite) sand in the “pie”.

This material has the highest thermal insulating properties, and even a layer of 30 ÷ 40 mm will become a reliable barrier to the cold. From positive qualities sand - its porosity and lightness, there is also one significant drawback - it generates a lot of dust, it is impossible to work with it even in the lightest wind - only indoors or after the enterprise necessary measures to create reliable cover. To create a layer of thermal insulation, it is lightly bonded with cement, adding additional fiberglass to the solution for greater strength. However, in this case the thermal insulation will close finishing screed, and you can do without micro-reinforcement.

It is important to correctly observe the proportions and mixing technology. The simplest option:

20 liters of perlite are mixed with 10 liters of water in a concrete mixer;

Add 5 liters of cement (M400), continuing the mixing;

Having achieved complete homogeneity, add another 10 liters of perlite and 1 - 2 liters of water. Stirring continues until the mixture becomes free-flowing.

A technological pause is made for 10 minutes. No supplements should be made at this time.

Then kneading is continued until the solution will not gain plasticity, releasing excess water from its composition.

• The solution is placed on the first screed (on the waterproofing layer), leveled and given time to harden for at least one week.
• Next - everything is as in the first option - reinforcing the floor with a metal mesh, installing a beacon system and pouring a screed with a thickness of not less 30 mm in compliance with the required slope to the drainage point.
• After the top layer of the insulated concrete floor has completely hardened, it will be ready for further exterior finishing work.

cement m400

The video presented to the reader's attention shows the basic principles of laying concrete floors directly on the ground

Concrete floor with ventilated subfloor

The floor of the bathhouse can also be raised above ground level by pouring it along powerful joists. In this case, effective ventilation of the underground space will be ensured (for which special vent windows are left in the basement. This principle is often used when the characteristics of the soil allow the construction of a bathhouse only on a pile foundation.

General diagram of a concrete floor with a ventilated subfloor

• On these “shelves” a subfloor made of 30 mm thick boards is installed. All wooden parts of the structure must be subjected to antiseptic treatment in advance.
• When installing a subfloor, pipes must be immediately installed to drain water from the washing room.

• Insulation is laid on top of the waterproofing between the joists - mineral wool or expanded polystyrene panels. You can also use dry expanded clay backfill. The thermal insulation layer on top is covered with a waterproofing film.
• Reinforcing mesh is laid, beacons are installed taking into account the required floor slope.
• Next, fill the screed with a plastic solution, at least 30 mm thick, exactly as described above.

An important note that concerns specifically the installation of the floor in the bathhouse. To avoid problems with damp walls, the floor level is calculated in advance with the condition that, taking into account all the insulating layers and the planned decorative coating, it is not higher than the upper edge of the plinth (flashing crown).

Most building materials react negatively to high humidity, this is especially true for wood. The bathhouse is one of the few buildings used in the most difficult conditions, in addition to high humidity and direct contact with water, a factor appears high temperature. Protecting architectural elements from the negative effects of high humidity is a set of very important and mandatory construction measures. Absolutely all elements of the structure need to be waterproofed, from the foundation to the roof.

Modern construction technologies and materials allow waterproofing work to be carried out quite quickly and with a high degree of reliability. There is a wide selection of materials available various actions and by different price, which allows you to choose in each specific case best option taking into account the maximum number of individual factors.

To make choosing the right decisions easier and more conscious, you should briefly familiarize yourself with existing species waterproofing materials and technologies of use. After a short overview, let's move on to specific methods of waterproofing all elements of a bathhouse: foundations, floors, walls, ceilings and roofs.

Types of waterproofing for baths

All types of waterproofing materials are classified according to several criteria: method of application, place and time of use. Depending on the place of use, it can be external or internal; it is quite obvious that some materials are used for finishing rooms and structures from the inside of buildings, and others from the outside.

In terms of time, waterproofing can be primary or secondary. The primary one is done at the stage of construction work. The secondary one is used in case of violation of the initial waterproofing characteristics of the primary one, as the planned operating conditions change or after detection of damaged areas.

Types of waterproofing according to application method

For a bathhouse, you can use all types of waterproofing materials produced, but each choice must take into account the operating conditions of building materials and structures and specifications isolation. What kind of waterproofing is there?

Coating

It can be one-component or two-component, produced in the form of mastics of various chemical compositions, most often based on modified bitumen or polymers. The thickness of the applied layer is 2÷4 mm; for some objects operating in particularly difficult conditions, the thickness of the waterproofing layer can increase to several centimeters.

It is used to protect foundations from capillary moisture, rain and groundwater, in most cases it is used for processing concrete structures. Can be the main covering material for flat roofs.

Bitumen mastic - use on the roof

Brands and characteristics of coating waterproofing

Such mastics can be used to waterproof bathhouse floors built on a concrete base; it is also possible to coat walls made of foam concrete or brick.

Waterproofing walls - photo

1. Advantages. In terms of cost, they are one of the cheapest types of materials. Universal in use, increase productivity. Modern mastics do not require heating before application.
2. Flaws. They require careful preparation of surfaces; at low temperatures they can significantly reduce elasticity.

Insulating structures can only be done in dry weather; the surfaces should not have significant damage.

Prices for coating waterproofing

coating waterproofing

Pasting

Sold in rolls, various materials are glued to the base. It is used only for external insulation of concrete structures; among the most well-known are glassine, roofing felt, roofing felt and modern materials based on fiberglass. The external insulating coating can be made of ordinary or modified bitumen. They are distinguished by improved characteristics and durability, and are priced in the low-cost category.

Brands and characteristics of adhesive waterproofing

The disadvantages include the following features:

• surfaces must be smooth and dry, it is advisable to carry out work at positive temperatures. Manufacturers of innovative components using thermoplastic and elastomeric materials allow waterproofing work to be carried out even at sub-zero temperatures, but builders with greater practical experience they are not advised to listen to their recommendations;
• the difficulty of waterproofing architectural structures with complex geometric shapes.

Prices for adhesive waterproofing

waterproofing

Painting room

Painting waterproofing - photo and definition

Various types of paints and varnishes made using innovative polymers and silicone resins. They can be used both indoors and outdoors and have good qualities. They are simple to use, and in terms of price they fall into the category of cheap waterproofing materials. The service life, depending on the brand, ranges from 5 to 8 years.

Brands and characteristics of paint waterproofing

Sprayable

Lately I've been finding wide application, can be two- or one-component. Available in water-based or special solvents. Sometimes called liquid rubber, its performance characteristics fully meet the requirements of developers. Universal use, quite expensive in price. It is afraid of mechanical influences; it can only work in windless, dry weather at positive temperatures. Required careful preparation surfaces. It is impossible to apply such waterproofing yourself; special expensive equipment is required. Recommended for use on external surfaces only.

Liquid rubber – sprayed waterproofing

Brands and characteristics of sprayed waterproofing

Sprayed waterproofing - photo

Polyurethane foam waterproofing has a special place. It not only protects surfaces from moisture, but also serves as a insulation material. In terms of performance, it satisfies builders and can be applied to surfaces of any shape and configuration. The disadvantage is the high price and complexity of application. Work can only be carried out by specialized companies.

Video - Waterproofing with polyurethane foam

Penetrating

Penetrating waterproofing - the result

Special mixtures based on Portland cement with the addition of various ingredients have high levels of physical strength and are used only on concrete or brick surfaces. Both internal and external surfaces can be waterproofed. Work is carried out only at positive temperatures, it is repairable. Before starting work, surfaces must be thoroughly cleaned.

Brands and characteristics of penetrating waterproofing

Penetrating waterproofing - application

For wooden materials, special impregnations are used to prevent the appearance of mold and increase protection against open flame. But these staves are not considered waterproofing, nor do they limit the penetration of moisture, but only minimize Negative consequences her presence.

Prices for penetrating waterproofing

penetrating waterproofing

Injection

Can be considered a repair, it is never applied to the entire surface, but is injected only in problem areas. Most often used during major or current repairs buildings, can be used on concrete or brick foundations. Contains special polymer compositions and can withstand significant groundwater pressure.

Brands and characteristics of injection waterproofing

To operate, it requires special equipment capable of creating high pressures. It is applied both into existing cracks and into existing technological holes.

Membrane

It is very widely used during the construction of various buildings and structures, has many types, differs high performance reliability. It is made on the basis of non-woven materials and, simultaneously with waterproofing, can allow moisture to pass through in a vapor state - a unique quality of superdiffusion membranes. The disadvantages include the rather high cost. In addition, these materials require unconditional implementation of the recommended waterproofing technologies; improper performance of the work can dramatically reduce efficiency.

Brands and characteristics of membrane waterproofing

MONARPLAN FM/D. MEMBRANE FOR WATERPROOFING. File for download

LOGICROOF® T-SL. Polymer PVC membrane for waterproofing. File for download

GOST 30547-97. ROLL ROOFING AND WATERPROOFING MATERIALS. File for download

Membrane waterproofing on the roof

We are confident that the knowledge gained will allow you to correctly select not only the types of waterproofing, but also the methods of its application. Let's consider the features of waterproofing all bath structures.

For baths, ordinary waterproofing can also be used as waterproofing. polyethylene film or aluminum foil. Film – cheap, quite reliable material. Aluminum foil is the only waterproofing that can one hundred percent guarantee the protection of surfaces from moisture penetration. But on one condition: all manufacturers’ recommendations are taken into account. The disadvantages of foil are rather low physical strength and high price.

Video - Waterproofing with foil

Waterproofing the bathhouse foundation

It is worth waterproofing the lateral above-ground surfaces of columnar and ribbon species foundations.

It is recommended to use mastics based on modified bitumen as waterproofing. If the bathhouse has a drainage system drain water, then it is advisable to impregnate the concrete drainage area with sprayed or painted waterproofing.

Very important. The main attention should be paid to waterproofing the lower row of the log house. To prevent wooden structures from getting wet, there must be at least two layers of roofing felt or other mechanically resistant material between concrete and lumber.

Foundation waterproofing - photo

Bathroom floor waterproofing

Wooden flooring does not require any additional waterproofing. For them, the main condition for long-term operation is efficient system ventilation of the underground space.

There are projects with other floor coverings, in some cases it is used ceramic tile. Such floors must be separated from concrete or cement-sand bases. For waterproofing, you can use mastics or roll coatings.

When choosing a specific solution, you should take into account the operating characteristics of floor coverings, the material they are made of and the presence or absence of heating systems. In some cases, it is recommended to use membrane waterproofing. But this is a rather expensive material; in most bathhouses, the floors are insulated with cold-use mastics, which can significantly reduce the estimated cost of the building.

The most attention should be paid to the steam room, followed by the wash room. To waterproof these rooms, experienced builders recommend using aluminum foil; only it can completely protect the surfaces from moisture penetration. Much attention Pay attention to additional sealing of foil overlap areas; the presence of even small gaps can cause significant problems. In addition to foil, ordinary polyethylene film and non-woven materials are used for waterproofing walls.

These tips apply to wooden baths; the requirements for brick or concrete ones are slightly different. A slight increase in the relative humidity of these materials does not have a critical effect on reducing the service life of the structure. Waterproofing in them is carried out mainly to protect against excessive moisture. thermal insulation materials. Such buildings can be insulated with any of the above materials. Of course, the price range should also be taken into account.

If all roofing work is carried out in accordance with existing standards and rules, then no additional waterproofing is required. On the contrary, experienced professional builders can carry out the complex so efficiently roofing works, which eliminates the need to lay waterproofing on the sheathing. Roofing and this will ensure complete sealing of the roof. And the use of waterproofing causes an increase in the time and cost of roofing work.

Conclusion

Conventionally, waterproofing a bath can be done in two ways: passive and active. Passive methods are described in the article above. And active ones should include the arrangement of effective ventilation of premises and underground space, drainage of water, the correct choice of materials for external and internal wall cladding, and implementation of measures for reclamation of the construction site. You need to know that durability wooden bath 70% dependent on active waterproofing structural elements buildings and only 30% of passive. Keep this in mind when building a bathhouse.

Video - Waterproofing baths or saunas Megaflex Megaflex

Video - Differences between vapor barrier and waterproofing

Video - Installation of roof waterproofing under metal tiles

Video - Waterproofing the floor