Why does juniper turn yellow

With a competent transplant and proper care behind the plant, the juniper needles begin to turn yellow and fall off. Why is this happening? This phenomenon can be explained by several reasons.

The first reason is biological feature plants. Every four years in the fall, the old needles inside the crown of the juniper begin to turn yellow and fall off, and a new one grows in its place. This is how the process of renewing the needles of a plant takes place.

The second reason is technocratic. Juniper grows only in ecologically healthy areas. If the personal plot is located near highways or industrial enterprises, the plant is likely to die.

In addition, acid rain, falling with alarming frequency, causes the death of conifers and some deciduous trees.

A few words explaining this phenomenon. In the industry of Europe, most of Germany, brown coal is actively used. Sulfur contained in brown coal, being oxidized, turns into sulfuric anhydride, which, together with smoke, enters the atmosphere, where it reacts with water droplets. This is how sulfuric acid is formed. Together with air masses, it is carried over thousands of kilometers and falls together with precipitation on the ground. I must say that in Germany it is for this reason that they stopped planting conifers.

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Juniper diseases - drying out of branches, brown needles, rust, yellowing of needles and others

Consider the most common juniper diseases in Russia, in addition, we list the main pests of this coniferous plant.

Tracheomycotic wilting, or fusarium, juniper

The causative agents are fungi Fusarium oxysporum Schl. and F. sambucinum Fuck., are soil pathogens that cause root rot. The roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates into the vascular system and fills it with its biomass. Access is terminated nutrients, and the affected plants, starting from the upper shoots, wither, the needles turn yellow, turn red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants in nurseries are most affected. It is believed that with the age of plants, the fungus passes into the composition of mycorrhiza and does not cause much harm.

Fig. 69. Reddening of the needles and drying out of a young plant

COMBAT MEASURES
Use healthy planting material... Timely culling and burning of all dried plants along with roots, collection of affected plant residues. Compliance with all agrotechnical requirements for the cultivation of this crop. For preventive purposes, green cuttings are etched before rooting and young plants with an open root system before planting in a solution of one of the drugs: bactofit, vitaros, maxim. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot, the soil is shed under the plants with a solution of one of the drugs: phytosporin-M, alirin-B, gamair. In industrial cultivation, preventive and eradicating spraying and soil spilling with a 0.2% solution of foundationol are carried out.

Shute brown juniper
Fig. 70. The beginning of the manifestation of shyute.

Fig. 71. Drying of the bush with a strong spread of brown shute.

The causative agent is the mushroom Herpotrichia juniperi. In spring, the needles turn yellow and become covered with a cobweb mycelium, which is grayish at first, but gradually becomes black-brown, dense, as if gluing the needles. Over time, black spherical small fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the pathogenic fungus are formed in the affected needles. The needles turn brown, dry up and do not crumble for a long time, which
greatly reduces the decorative effect of plants. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the affected needles.
COMBAT MEASURES *
Use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of dead branches, preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). With the manifestation of the disease in strong degree in summer time spraying is repeated with one of the same preparations.
Shute juniper
Fig. 72. Yellowing and drying of the needles are the first signs of shute.

Fig. 73. Formation of fruiting bodies on dried needles inside the crown of a plant.
The causative agent is the mushroom Lophodermium juniperinum. Needles last year's shoots in spring, in May, it turns brown and does not crumble for a long time. Over time, small shiny black fruit bodies are formed on the needles. The infection persists in the affected needles and plant debris.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the brown juniper shute.

Shrinking juniper branches
Fig. 74. Drying of the lateral branches when the disease manifests itself.

Fig. 75. Formation of fruiting bodies during the spread of drying out of branches.

Fig. 76. Dying off of the bark and lateral branches.
Several fungi can be the causative agents of branch drying: Cytospora pini Desm., Diplodiajuniperi West., Hendersonia notha Sacc. et Bn, Phoma juniperi (Desm.) Sacc, Phomopsis juniperovora Hahn., Rhabdospora sabinae Sacc. et Fautr. Drying of the bark and the formation of numerous small fruit bodies of brown and black color are observed on it. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches of the bushes dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches and in unharvested plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material.

COMBAT MEASURES
Compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, the use of high-quality planting material. Pruning affected branches, disinfecting individual wounds and all sections with 1% solution copper sulfate and blurring oil paint on natural drying oil. Collect and burn all cut off affected branches. Carrying out preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with the same preparations.

Juniper Alternaria
Fig. 77. Browning and drying out of needles and branches affected by alternarias.

Fig. 78. Browning and dying off of branches of a young plant affected by alternariasis.
The causative agent is the fungus Alternaria tenuis Nees. On the affected brown needles and branches, a velvety bloom of black appears. The needles fall off, the branches of the bushes dry up. The disease manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris under the bushes.

COMBAT MEASURES

Juniper rust
Fig. 79. Juniper branches with strong rust spread.

Fig. 80. The appearance of mucus on a swollen branch of a juniper.

Fig. 81. Formation of mucus on the affected juniper needles.

Fig. 82. Sporulation of rust on affected branches.

Fig. 83. Browning and drying out of bushes with strong spread of rust.
The causative agents are fungi Gymnosporangium confusum Plown, G. juniperinum Mart., G. sabinae (Dicks.) Wint. Mushrooms are of various households: the main cycle of their development occurs on the juniper, and the intermediate hosts are pome crops (apple, pear, quince, hawthorn, cotoneaster).

Fungal spores germinate on shoots, skeletal branches, needles and cones and form a wintering mycelium. Thickening appears on the affected parts, the death of individual skeletal branches begins. On the trunks, more often at the root collar, swellings and sagging are formed, on which the bark dries out and shallow wounds open. In early spring, when there is still snow all around, brown outgrowths appear on the branches, trunks, in the cracks of the bark, which swell after the rain and become covered with mucus. Teliospores develop in them, which germinate and form a golden-orange bloom, consisting of basidiospores. They are quickly carried by the wind and re-inoculate pome crops. Over time, the affected branches dry out, the needles turn brown and crumble. The infection persists in the affected juniper bark. On common juniper, mushrooms that cause rust of apple and quince overwinter, on Cossack junipers, tall and red, a mushroom that causes pear rust (G. confusum Plowr.) Overwinters.
COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the drying out of juniper branches.

Biotorella Juniper Cancer
Fig. 84. Shrinkage of branches during the manifestation of biotorella cancer.

Fig. 85. Drying of branches, dying off and cracking of the bark, exposure of a cancerous ulcer in the wood.

Fig. 86. Browning and decay of the wood of the trunk of a juniper affected by biotorella cancer.
The causative agent, the fungus Biatorella diformis, is the conidial stage of the fungus Biatoridina pinastri. With mechanical damage to the branches, over time, pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the bark and wood, causing bark necrosis. The fungus spreads in the tissues of the bark, the bark turns brown, dries up, cracks. The wood gradually dies off, and longitudinal ulcers form. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The defeat and dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. The infection persists in the bark of the affected branches.
COMBAT MEASURES
Compliance with all the requirements of agricultural technology, the use of high-quality planting material. Pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a 1% solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil. Collect and burn all cut off affected branches. In spring and autumn, preventive spraying of plants with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM) is carried out. When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with the same preparations.

Juniper bark nectriosis
Fig. 87. Fruit bodies on juniper bark.
The causative agent is the fungus Nectria cucurbitula, the conidial stage of the fungus is Zythia cucurbitula. On the surface of the affected bark, numerous brick-red sporulation pads with a diameter of up to 2 mm are formed; over time, they darken and dry out. The development of the fungus causes the death of the bark and bast of individual branches. The needles turn yellow and fall off, affected branches and whole bushes dry up. The disease is considered cancerous.
The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the drying out of juniper branches.

We have listed the main diseases of juniper (with names and in pictures), followed by material about the pests of this ornamental culture.

Angle-winged pine moth
Fig. 88. Butterfly on a juniper branch
Fig. 89. Pupa skin after moth butterfly emerges
Angle-winged pine moth (Semiothisa liturata) is a purple-gray butterfly with a wingspan of 25-33 mm. On the outer edge of the front wings it has a slight notch, for which it received the name Anglewing. The forewings have three, the hindwings have two sinuous lines and a dark spot at the apex, near which there is a yellow-brown stripe. The hindwings are paler, with a dark dot near the middle and with a dark transverse band along the outer margin. Yasha from green, red-brown to purple-gray. Caterpillars up to 30 mm long, green, with a red-brown head and dark green longitudinal stripes. The abdominal legs have alternating, short and long, two-tiered hooks. Pupa brown, up to 11 mm long. Pupae overwinter in forest litter or in soil; in spring, from late May to early June, butterflies begin to fly. Caterpillars feed and develop in the second half of summer and autumn and, after finishing feeding, go into the soil, where they pupate, and then hibernate. The moth is widespread and damages pine, spruce, fir, juniper.
Juniper needles are also damaged by caterpillars of fat cypress (Pachypasa opus Drury.), Juniper sawfly (Monoctenus juniperi L);
COMBAT MEASURES
Carrying out preventive spraying of plants annually, in May - June, with one of the drugs: actellik, decis Profi, fufanon. When a large number of pests are identified in the summer, carrying out eradication spraying with one of the same drugs. In case of severe damage to the branches and their drying out by pests, pruning of dried branches is carried out with the obligatory covering of cuts and cuts with oil paint on natural drying oil.

Juniper Scale
Fig. 90. Shields on a juniper branch
Juniper scutellum Insulaspis juniperi - small sucking insect, female scutellum elongated, Brown color, 2 mm in size. Females hibernate; from mid-May they lay eggs under the scutellum. Fertility of one female is up to 38 eggs. In the middle of the first decade of June, larvae hatch and stick to the needles. The pest feeds on needles and juniper cones,
paris, pine, thuja. With a large number of scale insects, the damaged needles turn brown, dry out and fall off, drying of young shoots and branches is often observed. At the same time, decorativeness is greatly lost, and young plants even die. The pest develops in one generation.
On needles and cones, there are often thuja scale insects - Carulaspis caruelii (Targ.) And European juniper scale insects - C. viscid Schn, and on needles and twigs, the juniper scale insect - Planococcus vovae (Nass.) Can also feed. It is often found on juniper and aphid - Cinara juniperi, which gives 3-4 generations per season. The presence of aphids can be identified by the activity of ants protecting it from other predatory insects.
COMBAT MEASURES

Gall midges
Fig. 91. Adult insect gall midges on a branch of a juniper.

Fig. 92. Small orange larva emerging from the gall.

Fig. 93. Galls at the base of needles and outlet openings after emergence of fusiform juniper gall midge.
Gall midges are small mosquitoes up to 2.2 mm long, have delicate transparent wings and yellowish-brown legs. The body is narrow, the antennae are filiform, the head is small with faceted eyes. The larvae are fusiform, 3-4 mm long, bright orange, live and feed in plant tissues, causing them to grow abnormally (galls). Juniper galls can consist of 2, 3 and 4 whorls of needles. In shape, they are conical, fusiform, pointed or oblong. By the location, shape and composition of the galls, specific pests are determined. Thus, galls from whorls of needles on shoots form Valerie's gall midge (Rhopalomyia valerii Tav.), Fusiform juniper gall midge (Obligotropus panteli Kiefif.), Summit juniper gall midge (Obligotropus. Sp.) And common juniper gall midge L.

COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the angle-winged pine moth.

Juniper stem pests
Fig. 94. Holes in the bark of the juniper stem.

Fig. 95. Holes in the bark of the lateral branch.
Juniper branches and trunks damage several pests. If there are small round holes on the surface of the bark, and a complex system of grooved passages is visible under the bark, then it can be a juniper bark beetle (Phloeosinus bicolor Brulle.) Or a juniper bark beetle (Ph. Turkestani-cus Sem.). If the passages under the bark do not form a complex system, then perhaps it is a juniper beetle (Anthaxia sepulchralis E), and if there are passages in the bark and in the wood and there is a large larva with pectoral legs, then this is a juniper barbel (Semanotus russicus persicus Sols.).
COMBAT MEASURES
The same as against the angle-winged pine moth. In addition, if holes are found in the bark of trees, injections are carried out with Actellik (without dilution): 1 ampoule / 1 m2 of trunk bark - with drops in each hole.

Ants
Fig. 96. A family of red ants brought into the garden together with planting material
Ants are small insects with a stalked abdomen and a gnawing mouth apparatus. Males and females have two pairs of membranous wings, which disappear after mating; working ants have no wings at all. Many species of ants play the role of orderlies of the forest, as they feed on dead insects, while others - entomophages - eat sawfly larvae. Some species are harmful to agricultural plants and decorative gardens, including coniferous. In gardens, they are constant companions of sucking pests - aphids, suckers, worms, scale insects, whose sweet secretions feed on and whose colonies are protected from being eaten by other predatory insects. Ants climb into bee hives, cars, people's houses, where they start new families, eat sweet and meat products. Ants and even entire families of ants often enter gardens with imported planting material from the
volume books. They live in plant roots, stumps, rotting wood, tree hollows.
COMBAT MEASURES
Places where ants accumulate are watered with solutions of actellik, fufanon, in places where there is no plant, they are watered with boiling water, parsley is planted near the hives, the smell of which scares off ants. During the growing season of plants, diazinon-based preparations are introduced into the places of accumulation: thunder, thunder-2, medvetox, ant, anteater.

Snails
Fig. 97. Stone Helitsigon on a juniper branch.

Snails are gastropods with a spirally wound shell. There is a special fold (mantle) on the skin that lines the shell from the inside. Two pairs of long tentacles protrude on the head - the lower ones form the labial tentacles, the upper ones end with eyes. Wide Bottom part the body is a leg, with the help of which the mollusks move, leaving a characteristic slimy trail. Females lay eggs in heaps in the ground, hatching larvae are similar to adult mollusks, only smaller. They live in humid shaded places, in thickened plantings, hiding in weeds. They feed on leaves, green shoots, fruits, in years with an abundance of precipitation, they cause significant harm to almost all plants, including conifers. Two generations of the pest develop in a year. There are several dozen species in the gardens, differing in the size and shape of the swirling shell. The largest of them is the grape snail (Helix pomatia), the diameter of which can reach 5 cm. Common amber (Succinea putris L.), stone helicigon (Helicigona lapicida L.), thick ifigena (Iphigeniaventricosa Drap.), Etc. are found more often than others.

COMBAT MEASURES
Collection and destruction of single individuals, drainage of wetlands, removal of weeds, thinning of thickened plantings.

European mole
Fig. 98. Moles - heaps of soil, thrown out of the hole of a mole.

The European mole (Talpa europaea L.) from the mole family belongs to the order of insectivores. Moles live underground and make shallow and deep passages. Surface passages are noticeable as rolling bulges with soil crumbling on the surface, deep ones are found in the characteristic heaps of earth thrown out of the hole - mole holes. The mole breeds once a year and gives an average of 5 cubs. Although moles feed on earthworms and insects that live in the soil, with a large number, they cause serious harm to plants, since, by making their passages in the soil, they damage the roots of plants.
COMBAT MEASURES
To scare off moles, it is recommended to fill the passages with a mixture of kerosene and water (1: 200) or put a rag soaked in kerosene into the hole. Of the repellents, the drug crotomet is used at the rate of 10-14 g per hole. Method of application: make a vertical cut in the burrow between two earth emissions. Put 5-7 g (1-2 tablespoons) of the preparation in both ends of the hole. Close the cutout with a board and cover with earth. After 2-3 days, check for the presence of the drug in the burrow. In the event that the preparation is covered with earth, the burrow is cut in another place and the operation is repeated. Processing as needed.

When publishing the article "Diseases of juniper and their treatment", materials of the book were used: Treyvas L. Yu. "Atlas key. Diseases and pests of coniferous plants ”.

What to do when junipers turn yellow

What to do when junipers turn yellow?

Junipers turned yellow: what to do? This question worries many connoisseurs of evergreen shrubs. Is it possible to increase the effectiveness of ongoing health improvement activities? What do the experts advise?

to eliminate fungi, use fungicides, insects and their larvae - insecticides, ticks - acaricides; process the bushes several times until complete recovery with an interval of 2 weeks; in windy weather, spraying should not be carried out; the optimal time for disinfection is morning or evening of a warm day; in case of fungal diseases, cut branches are treated with copper sulfate and covered with oil paint on drying oil; The following cocktail has proven itself well: Epin (1 ampoule) + Zircon (1 ampoule) + 5 liters of water. This mixture is abundantly sprayed with yellowed needles. It can be done several times at intervals of several days.

If the needles fall off only on inside crown and only at the beginning of autumn, then, most likely, nothing terrible happens. This is a natural process of changing the "fur coat", which lasts 2-3 years. After the old needles fall off under it, you will see a new one - young and beautiful.

But if the needles fall out all over the crown, then perhaps the reason lies in the excessive gas pollution of the atmosphere. Also yellowing can be caused by acid rain. Recently, unfortunately, this often happens.

In any case, don't expect instant results. The needles take a long time to recover. Sometimes it takes 2-3 years.

Other causes of juniper yellowing

Not only fungi and pests contribute to the yellowing of needles. For a juniper to please the eye, it is important to arm yourself with the knowledge of proper planting and cultivation.

One of the most common causes of yellowing of needles is drying out of the roots. When planting, put a few small stones on the bottom of the hole, cover them with earth (mix it with peat, sand and clay) and only then start planting juniper. Do not completely cover the root collar with soil. Do not plant the shrub in the open sun - the juniper loves partial shade. Avoid severe waterlogging and compaction of the soil. In spring and autumn, spray with such bioregulators of growth as "Zircon", "Elin", "Elin-extra".

Evergreen junipers (Juniperus), along with pines and spruces, rightfully occupy the top lines in the list of plants of the middle lane. High winter hardiness and drought resistance of juniper, good shearing tolerance in combination with a pleasant aroma of needles make this shrub indispensable for landscape design... The variety of species and varieties of juniper allows you to choose the desired habit of the bush and texture of the needles for both single and group planting, alpine slide... Particularly popular are juniper hedges, which can be cut to the desired height and profile.

Bahamut Chao / Flickr.com

Junipers in the spring often do not please the owners. garden plots... They are considered the most unpretentious plants, however, in fact, it turns out that it is difficult to care for these evergreens and they are sick of more often other shrubs due to their tendency to fungal diseases. This is expressed in the yellowing and gradual drying of the needles on junipers for no apparent reason in late spring - early summer. Sometimes this is due to sunburn, which is fairly easy to tell apart. They appear on juniper bushes on the south side.

F. D. Richards / Flickr.com

But with fungal diseases, you need to regularly fight with preventive spraying with fungicidal and copper-containing preparations. In wet areas at the beginning of summer, you can find junipers, the needles of which on individual branches have acquired a light brown hue or opal. On individual needles, dark round or elliptical dots are noticeable. These are the signs of conifers. This fungal disease affects the most weakened coniferous shrubs. Branches with fallen or yellowed needles must be removed, and the remaining healthy parts of the plant should be sprayed with fungicides in May and October.

Delphine Ménard / Flickr.com

Only in the second or third year after the defeat of juniper and thuja with rust, bright orange oily growths appear on the needles. Cossack and Virginia junipers most often get sick with rust. The peculiarity of this disease is the presence of a nearby deciduous infected fruit tree of the “host”. The leaves of pears and apple trees are affected first, tubercles form on them and rust stains, from which spores spill out on a juniper. On conifers, rust does not appear immediately, but when the disease has already spread quite widely, so it is difficult to cure it. The first step is to remove the damaged parts of the juniper, and carefully treat the remaining crown with a fungicidal preparation.

William Avery Hudson / Flickr.com

Drying of branches in spring, in which the needles turn yellow and begin to fall off, is also caused by some classes of fungi. On neglected plants, dark small spores appear on the bark of the trunk. Rocky juniper ("Skyrocket" variety) and scaly ("Blue Star", "Blue Carpet") are especially susceptible to this disease. Drying control measures are the same as for other fungal diseases: remove all damaged branches and spray with fungicides.

Rosita Choque / Flickr.com

If a reddish tint appears on the dried branches at the top of the juniper, then you should start worrying. These are signs of trachyomycotic wilting. This dangerous disease Junipers Virginia, Cossack and hanging hybrid varieties are susceptible. The disease is transmitted through soil and infected seedlings. Juniper roots turn brown, spores form on them, the mycelium of the fungus affects the entire plant, which dies. A withered plant should be removed immediately, and the soil at the site of the dead bush should be completely replaced. If the variety is very valuable, then you can remove some of the branches and try to preserve it by regularly spraying with fungicidal preparations.

5u5 / Flickr.com

Among the reasons for the yellowing of juniper needles in the spring can be the development of cancer foci on the trunks and branches of plants. Mechanical damage to the bark increases the risk of developing cancerous growths on juniper, these areas are quickly colonized by fungi. In the infected areas, the growth rate of the wood changes, the branches of the juniper above the site of the lesion turn yellow and dry out. It is very difficult to cure cancer on a juniper, so the affected branches are completely removed, the remaining parts are sprayed with copper preparations.

Matthew Beziat / Flickr.com

To prevent the transfer of the disease to healthy branches and individual specimens, cuts and cuts on juniper branches are lubricated with a solution of copper sulfate. The tool, which is used for pruning affected plants, is repeatedly wiped with alcohol in the process. In the spring (in April) and in the fall (in October), for prophylaxis, the juniper is sprayed with copper preparations (this can be a solution of copper sulfate, Bordeaux liquid or commercial preparations such as "Oxyhom").

It is recommended to change the preparations for spraying juniper in order to increase their effectiveness. To accelerate the growth of needles and increase stress resistance, juniper is sprayed with anti-stress drugs ("Epin", "Zircon"). They will improve the condition of the needles and accelerate their growth on healthy plants. To avoid infection of juniper with fungal diseases, the roots of juniper seedlings before planting should be soaked for 2-3 hours in a solution of fungicidal preparations, such as "Maxim" or "Fitosporin". Proper agricultural technology is a guarantee that the junipers in your garden will delight you with juicy green needles all year round.

Exactly in the fall the needles fall off the conifers... and there is a reason for this - a drop in temperature in September-November. Cooling is a natural signal for many conifers, in particular for thuja, microbiota, juniper, pine, etc. The color of the needles can turn yellow, bronze, brownish. On the example of the cross-pair microbiota, one can clearly see this natural process, when in autumn its needles become clearly brown in color. Also, a rusty-brown color can give many conifers the presence of brownish cones in which the seeds are stored.

Thuja needles fall more in the depths of the crown, where less light enters. And even if small branches (not only needles) fall off, then there is no need to worry - this is a natural renewal.

Most of the species of juniper, fir trees, and pseudo-slugs are also "cleared" in autumn. The needles may not turn brown in them, but become gray-gray, but this does not affect the aesthetic appearance in any way. Many do not even notice this process. But the pea cypress may even scare you when it begins to reject whole branches of brown color - in all conifers, the cleansing of old needles of branches occurs in different ways!

Look at this photo, it clearly shows how the color of the needles changed in winter from green to shades of yellowish dove:

If you decide buy thuja... pine or cypress, we warn you in advance that after disembarkation you can observe a sort of "drying out" of the tree from the inside. In fact, the plant is preparing for winter, and the needles turn yellow and fall off inside the crown. By the way, we want to introduce you to one of the largest nurseries in Russia and the CIS, where you can order conifers and deciduous plants at wholesale and retail prices. I generally bought conifers from them for a promotion, which I am very pleased with. Nursery Tui. rf is the place where the gardener's dreams come true!)))

And still, what to do when thuja needles turn yellow... juniper, cypress, pine, pseudo-tree, etc. It is imperative to free the plants from fallen needles. They can be shaken off with a gloved hand or washed off with a stream of water. This is done so that the needles do not settle in the forks of the branches, do not accumulate and do not interfere with the growth of new, young needles. If deciduous bushes and flowers grow under your conifers, then make sure that the fallen needles do not interfere with their normal growth. If nothing grows under the conifers, and the needles have fallen from a natural process (that is, they are not infected with diseases and fungi), then leave it on the ground - it will slowly rot and become an excellent mulch.

In this example, a clear sunburn in thuja:

Thuja needles yellowing... pines, cypress trees, etc. can be caused and not just by the "desire" of the plant to be renewed! These can be diseases and pests. One of the most harmful sores in conifers is brown shute. It is in the spring that this tree does not really build up the green mass, but it still stands yellow. In order to get rid of the shute, you need to spray the plants kartocide or Bordeaux liquid... You need to process it at intervals of 2 weeks, and until the plant recovers. Conifers can also damage aphids. It sucks out the juice from the tops of the branches, from which they begin to turn yellow, change color. To combat it, karbofos is used. Better to carry out preventive treatment in early spring... In the summer, it is already recommended to fight against aphids with the help of aktelik and rogor-S. If you notice that the needles are affected by fungi (including shyute), then process the conifers with HOMm, fundosal, ordan, oxykh, kartocid or commander. Better yet, to prevent diseases, treat plants throughout the spring with zircon and epin.

So if the needles of the plants turn yellow, then first inspect for the presence of diseases and pests. If so, take measures to protect the plant. (described above by what garden chemistry). If not, then pay attention to the moisture content of the ground and remember - when in last time fed. If on conifers the sun's rays fall all day, then shade them with light agrofibre or other covering material, figuring out a screen from the materials at hand.

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Junipers turned yellow: what to do? Review of the causes and methods of control

Schütte is a common coniferous disease.

The second most common disease is rust... Caused by basidiomycetes. It manifests itself in the form of yellow-orange growths on the branches. The peculiarity lies in the fact that not only the juniper is affected, but also the neighboring plants - the pathogen needs two carriers to pass the cycle. First, the spores are carried by the wind to apple, pear, hawthorn or mountain ash. On the leaves, kidney-shaped tubercles and "rusty" spots form, from which spores spill out, which then fall on the juniper. It is noteworthy that the yellow-orange growths are not immediately noticeable - about the second year after the defeat. The first warning signs that cannot be ignored are thickening and wounds on the branches of the juniper. According to observations, the Cossack and Virginian junipers are susceptible to rust more than other varieties.

Shrinking branches- another headache for gardeners and summer residents. It leads not only to the loss of decorativeness by the bush, but also often to death. The causative agents are a large group of fungi that begin their "work" in the spring. The needles turn yellow and begin to fall off. Later, dark small spores appear on the bark and on the branches. It was noted that junipers of the varieties “Skyrocket”, “Blue Star” and “Blue Carpet” are most susceptible to drying out.

Sick branches are carefully cut with pruning shears.

How to fight ... Diseased branches and bark particles are removed, the plant is carefully treated with fungicides. Sections and wounds are disinfected with copper sulfate. Preventive treatment is carried out in spring and autumn. Sometimes in the summer.

Nectric and biorellic cancer also causes yellowing of the needles. Most often, the mycelium is located on the bark and the spread of the disease is facilitated by mechanical damage to the "outerwear" of the juniper. The disease progresses rapidly - the branches turn yellow, the bark cracks, longitudinal ulcers appear and the plant begins to die.

How to fight ... If the affected area is large, then it is unlikely that it will be possible to save the juniper. Bad branches are removed, the plant is treated with Vectra, Bayleton, Skor, Tilt preparations. For prevention purposes, the bushes should be sprayed twice a year (in early spring and autumn) with solutions containing copper (Bordeaux mixture, Oxyhom, copper sulfate, Fitosporin).

Careful selection of new planting material will help prevent an outbreak of disease. If the health of the bushes raises doubts, it is better not to risk it and treat them with drugs such as Maxim, Quadris, Fitosporin.

Increases the risk of infection for thickened plantings and heavy soils with poor air exchange. The optimal time for prevention is April and October.

Spider mite envelops the juniper with a thin cobweb, which is why it crumbles and becomes covered first with yellow and then brown spots. The tick is especially dangerous in dry weather with a lack of moisture in the soil. During one growing season, a female tick gives up to 6 generations, that is, harm from life spider mites essential. Careful care and care of immature bushes will help prevent the appearance of pests. In the summer, spray the branches with a spray bottle. If you find cobwebs, prepare an infusion of dandelion, garlic, or colloidal sulfur for spraying. In especially neglected situations, acaricides are used.

Gall midges are not at all a harmless mosquito.

Sucking pests prefer young or weakened plants. This is why it is important to regularly fertilize, loosen the soil and remove weeds. Much attention should be paid to the quality of the planting material - buy seedlings only from trusted suppliers. The soil at the planting site should be light, fertile with weak level acidity.

Purple butterflies may appear over junipers in May. If you ignore their fussy fluttering, then in July green caterpillars with a dark red head will settle on the branches. it pine moths... known for their gluttony. In October, the caterpillars suddenly disappear, but there is no need to rejoice. They go underground or hide in fallen needles in order to successfully winter in the pupa stage, and then again begin to destroy the juniper. Control measures include spraying shrubs with enteric insecticides and digging up the ground to destroy pupae.

Shoot moth loves to feast on young shoots on sprigs of needles.

Junipers turned yellow: what to do? This question worries many connoisseurs of evergreen shrubs. Is it possible to increase the effectiveness of ongoing health improvement activities? What do the experts advise?

If the needles fall off only on the inner side of the crown and only at the beginning of autumn, then, most likely, nothing terrible happens. This is a natural process of changing the "fur coat", which lasts 2-3 years. After the old needles fall off under it, you will see a new one - young and beautiful.

But if the needles fall out all over the crown, then perhaps the reason lies in the excessive gas pollution of the atmosphere. Also yellowing can be caused by acid rain. Recently, unfortunately, this often happens.

Other causes of juniper yellowing

Juniper does not like dry soil or too wet.

Many people know that immature junipers need to be covered for the winter, but not everyone knows that, for example, this cannot be done with lutrasil, agrotherm or spunbond. These materials not only let the sun's rays through, but also retain moisture, which leads to yellowing of the needles - to frost and sunburn. Young bushes are very sensitive to the spring sun. In March, they must be covered with burlap. It can be used to cover the crown from above, or it can be pulled over the frame by placing such a screen on the sunny side. Adult plants are not afraid of frost, but they can suffer from the spring sun, so it is better to cover them too.

The best treatment is prevention. Take care of the juniper - shelter from the damaging spring sun, loosen the ground, keep the roots from drying out or rotting, and inspect the shrub as often as possible for alarming symptoms. If you do this constantly, then the plant will be healthy, which means it will delight you with the beauty and stunning aroma of needles.

Video: How to properly care for a juniper

When the days are getting shorter, and the sun is no longer so generously sharing its warmth with the earth, one of the most beautiful seasons of the year comes - autumn. She, like a mysterious sorceress, changes the world around and fills it with juicy and unusual colors. Most noticeably, these miracles occur with plants and shrubs. They are one of the first to respond to weather changes and the onset of autumn. They have three whole months ahead of them to prepare for winter and part with their main decorations - leaves. However, at first, the trees will certainly delight everyone around with the tints of color and the madness of colors, and the fallen foliage will carefully cover the ground with its blanket and protect its smallest inhabitants from severe frosts.

In autumn, one of the most important changes in the life of trees and shrubs occurs: a change in the color of foliage and leaf fall. Each of these phenomena helps them prepare for winter and survive such a harsh time of the year.

Another reason for leaf fall is a high risk for branches to be broken under the pressure of the snow cap. If fluffy snow fell not only on the branches themselves, but also on their leaves, they could not withstand such a heavy burden.

In addition, the leaves accumulate over time a lot of harmful substances, to get rid of which is obtained only with leaf fall.

With the onset of autumn, trees and shrubs decide to change the emerald color of their leaves to brighter and more unusual colors. Moreover, each tree has its own set of pigments - "colors". These changes are due to the fact that the leaves contain a special substance, chlorophyll, which converts light into nutrients and gives the foliage its green color. When a tree or shrub begins to store moisture, and it no longer reaches the emerald leaves, and the sunny day becomes much shorter, chlorophyll begins to break down into other pigments, which give the autumn world crimson and golden tones.

How the leaves of different trees and shrubs change color in autumn

Autumn owes to the riot of colors and their unearthly beauty that the foliage of all trees has different combinations of colors and shades. The most common color of the leaves is crimson. Maple and aspen can boast of a scarlet color. These trees are very beautiful in autumn.

Birch leaves turn light yellow, and oak, ash, linden, hornbeam and hazel - brownish yellow.

Shrubs also delight in the variety and brightness of colors. Their foliage turns yellow, purple, or red. Grape leaves (grapes - shrubs) acquire a unique dark purple color.

The leaves of barberry and cherry stand out against the general background with a crimson-red hue.

Rowan leaves can be from yellow to red in autumn.

Viburnum leaves appear along with the berries.

Euonymus dresses in purple clothes.

Evergreen tree - spruce

Evergreen shrub - juniper

Some deciduous shrubs do not part with their emerald robes either. These include cranberries and lingonberries. In the Far East there is interesting plant wild rosemary, the leaves of which do not change color in the fall, but curl up in the fall into a tube and disappear.

Why do leaves fall, but no needles?

Leaves play a large role in the life of trees and shrubs. They help build and store nutrients and store minerals. However, in winter, when there is an acute shortage of light, and, therefore, nutrition, the leaves only increase the consumption of useful components and cause excessive evaporation of moisture.

The only coniferous plant that parts with its needles for the winter is larch. It appeared in ancient times, when the summers were very hot and the winters were incredibly frosty. This feature of the climate led to the fact that the larch began to shed its needles and there was no need to protect them from the cold.

Poplar leaf fall begins at the end of September, and by mid-October it completely ends. Young trees retain their foliage longer and turn yellow later.

Junipers turn yellow and fall off in autumn

Rowan begins its leaf fall in early October and continues to delight with its pink leaves until November 1. It is believed that after the rowan leaves the last leaves, chilly days begin.

Evergreen trees and shrubs

Evergreens and shrubs do not lose their foliage even with the onset of cold weather, as ordinary deciduous trees do. Their permanent foliage allows them to survive all weather conditions and retain maximum supply of nutrients. Of course, such trees and shrubs renew their leaves, but this process occurs gradually and almost imperceptibly.

Evergreens do not shed all their leaves at once for several reasons. Firstly, then they do not have to spend large reserves of nutrients and energy for growing young leaves in spring, and secondly, their constant availability ensures uninterrupted nutrition of the trunk and roots. Most often, evergreen trees and shrubs grow in areas with a mild and warm climate, where the weather is warm in winter, however, they are also found in harsh climatic conditions. These plants are most common in tropical rainforests.

Evergreens such as cypresses, spruces, eucalyptus trees, some types of evergreen oaks, and the rodendron can be found in a wide area from the harsh Siberia to the forests of South America.

Another evergreen shrub is gardenia jasmine. China is her homeland.

Tracheomycotic wilting, or fusarium, juniper

The causative agents are fungi Fusarium oxysporum Schl. and F. sambucinum Fuck. belong to soil pathogens that cause rotting of the root system. The roots turn brown, the mycelium penetrates into the vascular system and fills it with its biomass. The access of nutrients stops, and the affected plants, starting from the upper shoots, wither, the needles turn yellow, turn red and fall off, and the plants themselves gradually dry out. Seedlings and young plants in nurseries are most affected. It is believed that with the age of plants, the fungus passes into the composition of mycorrhiza and does not cause much harm.

Fig. 69. Reddening of the needles and drying out of a young plant

Use healthy planting material. Timely culling and burning of all dried plants along with roots, collection of affected plant residues. Compliance with all agrotechnical requirements for the cultivation of this crop. For preventive purposes, green cuttings are etched before rooting and young plants with an open root system before planting in a solution of one of the drugs: bactofit, vitaros, maxim. At the first symptoms of wilting and root rot, the soil is shed under the plants with a solution of one of the drugs: phytosporin-M, alirin-B, gamair. In industrial cultivation, preventive and eradicating spraying and soil spilling with a 0.2% solution of foundationol are carried out.

Shute brown juniper

The causative agent is the mushroom Herpotrichia juniperi. In spring, the needles turn yellow and become covered with a cobweb mycelium, which is grayish at first, but gradually becomes black-brown, dense, as if gluing the needles. Over time, black spherical small fruiting bodies of the wintering stage of the pathogenic fungus are formed in the affected needles. The needles turn brown, dry up and do not crumble for a long time, which

greatly reduces the decorative effect of plants. The infection persists in the affected plant debris and in the affected needles.

Use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of dead branches, preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with 1% Bordeaux mixture or its substitutes (ABIGA-PIK, HOM). When the disease manifests itself to a strong degree in the summer, spraying is repeated with one of the same drugs.

Fig. 73. Formation of fruiting bodies on dried needles inside the crown of a plant.

The causative agent is the mushroom Lophodermium juniperinum. The needles of last year's shoots in the spring, in May, turn brown and do not crumble for a long time. Over time, small shiny black fruit bodies are formed on the needles. The infection persists in the affected needles and plant debris.

The same as against the brown juniper shute.

JUNIPER. DAMAGES, CAUSES, TREATMENT

Junipers are rarely damaged by pests and diseases. In the spring, sometimes it is necessary to treat weakened plants from winter desiccation, sunburn and fight all kinds of infection. In addition, by yellowing and dying of needles, some types of junipers, like other conifers, react to air pollution from automobile and industrial gases. You should not plant junipers near pome fruit trees (apple, pear, hawthorn), intermediate hosts of the most common juniper rust disease.

Sucking Pests

Control measures. Aphids are bred and grazed by ants. The way out is to prevent the spread of ants. If there are not many aphids, regularly wash the infected areas with clean cold or soapy water (but before that you need to cover the soil so that a large amount of soap does not get on the roots). The procedure must be repeated more than once with an interval of 6-10 days. Cutting off the ends of shoots with aphid colonies significantly reduces the harmfulness of insects. This activity can be combined with planned pruning.

Control measures. In early spring, as soon as thawed patches form around the trunks, apply caterpillar glue rings to the trunks and keep the pest out. Or put on the trunks trapping belts made of burlap, straw. In the early stages, when the colonies of scabies are small, you can simply clean the shields from the trunks with a toothbrush, a blunt knife. In severe cases, spraying the wandering larvae with insecticides.

Control measures. Spraying pests with insecticides, cutting and burning branches with galls.

Control measures. Good care of young seedlings. Spray plants with cold water prophylactically to increase humidity. When symptoms appear, spraying with colloidal sulfur, infusions of dandelion or garlic. If the affected area occupies a significant area, then apply acaricides.

CONDITIONING PESTS

Control measures. Dig up the trunks. Destroy nests and larvae at low pest numbers. Spraying with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants.

Control measures. They fight the pest by collecting spider nests and spraying with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants or a solution of any insecticidal preparation made on the basis of mineral oils.

Control measures. Dig up the trunk circles, thereby destroying the pupae. Spraying trees in the spring, with the regrowth of young shoots, and, if necessary, in the summer, with one of the enteric insecticides.

Junipers in the Northwest are not damaged by stem pests and pests of cones.

DISEASES OF JUNIPER

On the summer cottages Junipers can suffer from frequent visits by dogs and cats, causing excessive salt concentration in the soil. In such cases, shoots with red needles appear on thuja and juniper. subsequently drying up. Junipers are sensitive to air pollution from harmful industrial and automotive gases. This is manifested, first of all, by yellowing, starting from the ends, needles and their falling off. Excessive moisture associated with natural waterlogging, rising groundwater levels, spring floods and abundant autumn rainfall, leads to yellowing and necrotization of the needles. The same symptoms very often appear due to a lack of moisture in the soil and low air humidity.

• At the beginning of summer, orange growths of 0.5 cm appear on the branches and trunks of junipers, which, after rain, turn into fleshy formations 1.5 cm long. These are the sporulation organs of the RUST fungus. It needs two host plants to complete a full cycle. The wind carries countless microscopic spores to hawthorn bushes, rowan trees or pears, where they germinate and the filaments of the fungus take root in the leaves. On the upper surface of the leaves, yellowish-brown spots are formed, and on the lower surface - kidney-shaped protrusions, from where spores spill out, which now, for further development, must fall on the juniper.

Control measures. The only one effective measure- do not plant a number of host plants, and if signs of a disease appear, remove a partner that is less valuable to you. Remove damaged needles and shoots. Increasing resistance through the use of micronutrient fertilizers and immunostimulants will reduce the harmfulness of rust.

• Signs of damage to the SHYUTTE juniper appear at the beginning of summer on last year's needles, which acquire a dirty yellow or brown color and do not crumble for a long time. From the end of summer on the surface of the needles, round fruit bodies, black up to 1.5 mm, are noticeable, in which marsupial sporulation of the fungus remains in winter. Shaded plants are most susceptible to disease. The disease develops intensively on weakened plants, during wet conditions, can lead to death of plants. The harmfulness of shute increases with high snow cover and prolonged thawing.

Control measures. selection of planting material that is sustainable in origin, giving the plants as much stability as possible, timely thinning, the use of fungicidal spraying. Spraying with copper-containing and sulfuric preparations in early spring and autumn effectively reduces the development of diseases. Remove fallen diseased needles, cut off dried branches in a timely manner.

• Drying of the bark and the formation of numerous brown and black fruit bodies on it. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches dry out. Various fungi can be the causative agents of the drying of juniper BRANCHES. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and unharvested plant debris. Thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material contribute to the spread.
• The bark turns brown, dries up, cracks. The wood gradually dies off, longitudinal ulcers are formed. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. This is BIATORELLA CANCER. Its causative agent is a mushroom. The mycelium spreads in the tissues of the cortex, the cause is mechanical damage branches.
• Numerous brick-red sporulation pads up to 2 mm in diameter are formed on the surface of the bark; over time, they darken and dry out. The needles turn yellow and fall off, affected branches and whole bushes dry up. The causative agents of NECTRIC CANCER are fungi. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened plantings and the use of contaminated planting material.
• The needles become brown, a velvety bloom of black appears on the branches. These are signs of the fungal disease ALTERNARIOSIS. The disease manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris.

Control measures. To combat drying out, cancer and alternaria, you can use preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with copper-containing preparations. If necessary, in the summer, spraying is repeated every 2 weeks. The use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil significantly reduce the prevalence of diseases.

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In modern garden design conifers can be presented in the form of all kinds of pine, spruce, fir, larch and juniper.

These varieties garden plants are notable persons when it comes to the unique decoration of the garden and the decoration of various alpine slides.

In this case, we will dwell in detail on the features of growing juniper. And let's take a closer look at why the juniper dries.

Juniper is a very delicate plant, although it is quite common in nature. Even with minor violations of the conditions of its optimal life, the plant begins to noticeably deteriorate its appearance... The most common reasons that can lead to this kind of changes are significant increases in the concentration of salts in the soil or drying out of its root system.

That is why, after the process of planting a seedling, it is necessary to regularly mulch the soil until it starts to release new roots. During planting, additional fertilizers should also not be applied to the planting pit, since they can burn the roots of the plant and this will lead to its death.

For optimal planting and further rooting, it is necessary to use a peat soil mixture of a small amount of clay and sand. Using this technique, it is possible to avoid a significant increase in the concentration of salts of various types in the soil, which can save the juniper from drying out.

There are some tricks you can use to make your juniper feel better. To protect the plant from drying out the root system, it is necessary to put several cobblestones at the bottom of the planting pit, and then pour soil mixtures on them and start planting the juniper itself. Moreover, it is necessary to ensure that the root collar of the plant is not covered with earth above the optimal level.

When the juniper begins to grow, its roots will braid these stones, and they will begin to function as a kind of support for the tree and will protect the roots from further drying out of moisture in them.

Juniper prefers partial shade. Therefore, if you do not have the opportunity to regularly provide the plant with the necessary watering, then it is better not to risk it and plant it away from direct sunlight.

Juniper is a beautiful evergreen tree or shrub that is in great demand for creating aesthetic compositions in landscape design. And also the juniper is a real long-liver, with which almost no tree can be compared, even the Siberian cedar. Scientists claim that under favorable conditions a juniper can live up to 3000 years. However, it is difficult to verify this ...

Juniper is an exceptional plant that looks like a cypress. Its uniqueness lies in the unique aromatic and bactericidal properties of wood and needles, which people have known for a long time. Thanks to this, utensils were made from juniper, in which food products did not spoil (they say that even milk did not turn sour on a hot day), bath accessories, and amulets. From needles and fruits (cones), which include essential oils, organic acids, sugar, resins, various therapeutic agents were made - rubbing, infusions, decoctions, which help from many diseases.

Juniper is not picky about soil and drought-resistant, but picky about light, since even partial shade can negatively affect its decorative properties. However, there are some types of juniper that prefer shade. Let's talk about the diseases of the juniper. Because, if you ignore them, then not only 3000 years, but also a year after planting, the juniper may not live.

The dangers of winter

If the juniper grows on the Crimean coast, then nothing needs to be done. But, if you decide to grow it on a site located in central Russia, then in winter you need to take a number of measures to protect it. The first thing that can threaten a juniper is a snow break. Branches can break or deform under the weight of the snow that has fallen, and even the trunk can split. Therefore, during heavy snowfalls, you need to periodically shake off the branches. If the juniper grows, for example, in a country house, where the owners rarely visit, then even in the fall, before the start of frost, the juniper must be tied with twine. It is better to strengthen young and flexible trees for the winter by tying them to a peg.

The juniper wintering in Russia has another problem - sunburn. Bright sunlight multiplied by the temperature differences in early spring and enhanced by the reflection from the snow - a burn is guaranteed. Burns affect the open parts of the crown from the sunny side. The needles turn yellow, and it will take several years to restore the branch, if the buds remain alive. If the buds have also died, then the branches must be cut off without stumps, they will not recover.

To protect against spring burns, it is better to cover junipers. The best material for shelter is spruce branches, which are placed on a tree (shrub) from bottom to top. In the absence of spruce branches, you can wrap the juniper in several layers with non-woven material (agrospan).

If the winter is warm and snowy, then another trouble threatens the juniper - damping off and fungal diseases. If, after the snow has melted, you see blackened needles from below, you need to cut them out and burn them, and treat the crown with antiseptic solutions.

If after the winter you find that something is wrong with your junipers, it is better to call the specialists. We will definitely advise and, if necessary, help to restore its decorative properties. The minimum cost of a dendrologist's services is 5000 rubles. This cost includes the travel of a specialist to a site in the Moscow region and diagnostics of diseases of a medium-sized garden (up to 20 acres). Our dendrologist will not only determine what the juniper is sick with, he will help determine the main problems of the whole garden, advise you to take certain measures to protect plants from diseases and pests, regardless of whether you prefer to care for the plants yourself or want to entrust these measures to us.

Fungal diseases

Juniper requires your attention not only after winter, but throughout the year. If you have planted a juniper very densely, and / or in an area with insufficient lighting, then suddenly you can find a layer of gray-brown dust on the young shoots. This is not dust, but gray mold or rot.

Exclusively conifers and, including juniper, a fungal disease is dangerous - brown shute or brown mold caused by fungi Herpotrichia nigra. It often affects young undergrowth in nurseries. Infection occurs in the fall, and is found in the spring, after the snow melts. On the dead needles, you can find a cobweb, black-gray bloom - this is the mycelium of the fungus. The disease progresses in conditions of high humidity, with thickened plantings, and also if the juniper is planted in a hollow.

Juniper can also infect shute caused by the fungus Lophodermium juniperinu.

If at the beginning of summer you find yellowing and browning of last year's non-crumbling needles, then take action.

Diseases of junipers

The disease develops in humid conditions, on weakened plants and leads to their death.

A measure of protection against shute is the selection of high-quality planting material resistant to disease, timely thinning of plantings. The disease is especially dangerous in years of high snow cover with a long period of melting.

Juniper is susceptible to rust diseases caused by Basidiomycot fungus. Affecting needles and shoots, rust can spread to other plants. Juniper rust can be caused by Gymnosporangiu fungi. The disease develops on intermediate hosts - apple, pear, quince, hawthorn. At the end of summer, it spreads to the main host - a juniper. In early spring or autumn, you can find yellow-orange gelatinous masses - these are fungal spores. Then thickenings appear, and gradually the death of skeletal branches begins. On the root collar, sagging can be found, and the bark begins to dry out, leaving wounds. The infection persists for a long time in the bark of the plant, and can become chronic.

As a preventive measure for the disease, you can use the isolation of the juniper from the intermediate hosts of the fungus. If a defeat occurs, then it is necessary to cut and destroy the diseased shoots, as well as feed the plant with micronutrient fertilizers and immunostimulants. Often, for the treatment of this disease, it is impossible to do without fungicide treatments.

Dense plantings!

Drying of branches and bark with the formation of black and brown fruiting bodies can also be caused by other types of fungus. The disease almost always persists in the cortex. Contaminated planting material and, again, plant thickening contributes to its spread.

Some fungi can cause juniper cancer. Biotorella cancer affects the plant when the branches are mechanically damaged. Pathogenic microorganisms begin to develop in the cortex, subsequently causing its necrosis.

Juniper nectric carcinoma develops in the bark of affected plants. Red spore cushions appear on the surface of the bark, which then darken and dry out. The bark dies off, the bushes dry up entirely. The reason is the affected planting material, and, as always, the thickening of the plantings.

Juniper Alternaria. The needles become brown, a velvety black bloom is observed on the branches. The reason is the thickening of the plantings. The disease persists in plant debris, as well as in the affected needles and bark.

Juniper diseases are very dangerous. As a rule, a disease that appeared once and was ignored, over time, covers all the plantings of junipers on the site. We carry out all the necessary measures to improve the ornamental qualities of the plant and restore the crown of a juniper damaged by this or that disease. The cost of a dendrologist's visit to the site with the determination of the cause of the disease is 5,000 rubles (in all directions of the Moscow region). When carrying out work (for example, treatments), the visit of a specialist is free. Contact us, we will help your garden!

Junipers are rarely damaged by pests and diseases. In the spring, sometimes it is necessary to treat weakened plants from winter desiccation, sunburn and fight all kinds of infection. In addition, by yellowing and dying of needles, some types of junipers, like other conifers, react to air pollution from automobile and industrial gases. You should not plant junipers near pome fruit trees (apple, pear, hawthorn), intermediate hosts of the most common juniper rust disease.

Sucking harm
Needle-eating pests
Juniper disease

Sucking Pests

Juniper aphid appears on young shoots. Aphids during mass reproduction can harm young plants, since, sucking out the juice, they strongly oppress and weaken the plant, retard growth, cause curvature and twisting of damaged shoots.

On young cones and needles one can see rounded shields of females and elongated shields of males (up to 1-1.5 mm.) In early June, larvae appear, which stick to the needles. The needles dry up and fall off, and young plants may die. Sucking the juice from the tissues of the bark, the larvae cause damage, leading to the death of the bark, drying out and curvature of the shoots, and a decrease in annual growth. Affects juniper, thuja, yew, cypress. Control measures. Aphids are bred and grazed by ants. The way out is to prevent the spread of ants. If there are few aphids, regularly wash the infected areas with clean cold or soapy water (but before that you need to cover the soil so that a large amount of soap does not get on the roots). The procedure must be repeated more than once with an interval of 6-10 days. Cutting off the ends of shoots with aphid colonies significantly reduces the harmfulness of insects. This activity can be combined with planned pruning.

Small mosquitoes, no more than 2.2 mm, fly near plants, then their larvae appear - fusiform and covered with warts, up to 4 mm long, bright yellow, orange, or red. These are GALLITS on a juniper. The larvae secrete specific growth substances on the needles, under the influence of which the plant cells begin to grow rapidly and divide, turning into galls. The larvae live and winter in them. Control measures. In early spring, as soon as thawed patches form around the trunks, apply caterpillar glue rings to the trunks and keep the pest out. Or put on the trunks trapping belts made of burlap, straw. In the early stages, when the colonies of scabies are small, you can simply clean the shields from the trunks with a toothbrush, a blunt knife. In severe cases, spraying the wandering larvae with insecticides.

The needles are entangled with thin sparse cobwebs, covered with yellowish spots, later turns brown and crumbles. SPINE SPIDER MITE and its larvae damage young plants: juniper, biota, prickly spruce, Canadian, common, western thistle. During the summer, the female gives 3-4 generations. The mite inflicts the greatest harm on trees growing on dry soils in hot years. During the growing season, ticks form four to six generations, so the degree of damage increases by the end of summer. Spraying pests with insecticides, cutting and burning branches with galls.

PENTAL PESTS Control measures. Good care of young seedlings. Spray plants with cold water prophylactically to increase humidity. When symptoms appear, spraying with colloidal sulfur, infusions of dandelion or garlic. If the affected area occupies a significant area, then apply acaricides.

The green larvae (larvae) of the JUNIPER SAWFER have 3 dark stripes and a brown head. They damage needles and shoots by eating away internal tissues.

Caterpillars of the juniper ROOM Moth eat away the insides of the shoots, severely damage various forms of the common juniper. Dig up the trunks. Destroy nests and larvae at low pest numbers. Spraying with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants.

At the end of May, purple-gray butterflies appear with a wingspan of up to 3.5 cm.In the middle of summer, green caterpillars appear on the branches with longitudinal dark stripes and a red-brown head, not very large, up to 3 cm, which begin to actively feed. This is the Angle-winged PINE FOON on a juniper. In autumn, the caterpillars go into the soil, where they pupate. Hibernates as a pupa in fallen needles or in soil. They fight the pest by collecting spider nests and spraying with infusions and decoctions of insecticidal plants or a solution of any insecticidal preparation made on the basis of mineral oils.

Junipers in the Northwest are not damaged by stem pests and pests of cones. Dig up the trunk circles, thereby destroying the pupae. Spraying trees in the spring, with the regrowth of young shoots, and, if necessary, in the summer, with one of the enteric insecticides.

DISEASES OF JUNIPER

In summer cottages, junipers can suffer from frequent visits by dogs and cats, which cause an excessive concentration of salts in the soil. In such cases, shoots with red needles appear on thuja and juniper, which subsequently dry out. Junipers are sensitive to air pollution from harmful industrial and automotive gases. This is manifested, first of all, by yellowing, starting from the ends, needles and their falling off. Excessive moisture associated with natural waterlogging, rising groundwater levels, spring floods and abundant autumn rainfall, leads to yellowing and necrotization of the needles. The same symptoms very often appear due to a lack of moisture in the soil and low air humidity.

At the beginning of summer, orange growths of 0.5 cm appear on the branches and trunks of junipers, which, after rain, turn into fleshy formations 1.5 cm long. These are the sporulation organs of the fungus - RUST. It needs two host plants to complete a full cycle. The wind carries countless microscopic spores to hawthorn bushes, rowan trees or pears, where they germinate and the filaments of the fungus take root in the leaves. On the upper surface of the leaves, yellowish-brown spots are formed, and on the lower surface - kidney-shaped protrusions, from where spores spill out, which now, for further development, must fall on the juniper.

Control measures. The only effective measure is not to plant a number of host plants, and when signs of a disease appear, remove a partner that is less valuable to you. Remove damaged needles and shoots. Increasing resistance through the use of micronutrient fertilizers and immunostimulants will reduce the harmfulness of rust.

Signs of damage to the SHYUTTE juniper appear at the beginning of summer on last year's needles, which acquire a dirty yellow or brown color and do not crumble for a long time. From the end of summer on the surface of the needles, round fruit bodies, black up to 1.5 mm, are noticeable, in which marsupial sporulation of the fungus remains in winter. Shaded plants are most susceptible to disease. The disease develops intensively on weakened plants, in humid conditions, and can lead to death of plants. The harmfulness of shute increases with high snow cover and prolonged thawing.

Drying of the bark and the formation of numerous brown and black fruit bodies on it. The needles turn yellow and fall off, the branches dry out. Various fungi can be the causative agents of the drying of juniper BRANCHES. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and unharvested plant debris. The spread is facilitated by thickened planting of plants and the use of contaminated planting material. selection of planting material that is sustainable in origin, giving the plants as much stability as possible, timely thinning, the use of fungicidal spraying. Spraying with copper-containing and sulfuric preparations in early spring and autumn effectively reduces the development of diseases. Remove fallen diseased needles, cut off dried branches in a timely manner.

The bark turns brown, dries up, cracks. The wood gradually dies off, longitudinal ulcers are formed. Over time, rounded fruiting bodies are formed. The dying off of the bark leads to the fact that the needles turn yellow and dry out. This is BIATORELLA CANCER. Its causative agent is a mushroom. The mycelium spreads in the tissues of the bark, the cause is mechanical damage to the branches.

• Numerous brick red pads sporulation up to 2 mm in diameter, over time they darken and dry out. The needles turn yellow and fall off, affected branches and whole bushes dry up. Causative agents NECTRIC CANCER mushrooms. The infection persists in the bark of affected branches and plant debris. The spread of infection is facilitated by thickened plantings and the use of contaminated planting material.
• The needles become brown, velvety appears on the branches black bloom... These are signs of a fungal disease. ALTERNARIOSIS... The disease manifests itself when the plantings are thickened on the branches of the lower tier. The infection persists in the affected needles and bark of branches and in plant debris.

Control measures. To combat drying out, cancer and alternaria, you can use preventive spraying of plants in spring and autumn with copper-containing preparations. If necessary, in the summer, spraying is repeated every 2 weeks. The use of healthy planting material, timely pruning of affected branches, disinfection of individual wounds and all sections with a solution of copper sulfate and smearing with oil paint on natural drying oil significantly reduce the prevalence of diseases.

Lyudmila Shcherbakova, Candidate of Agricultural Sciences, Associate Professor of the St. Petersburg Forestry Academy, specialist in the preservation and protection of garden and park plants