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About operational reliability Bosch rotary hammers The Russian user was convinced first-hand. Various construction forums provide user opinions about high performance Bosch rotary hammers, their operational reliability and convenience.

Bosch rotary hammers are equipped with a dust removal system, a shaft rotation stabilizer, a drilling depth limiting rail, a “soft start” system, a rotation speed regulator, anti-vibration devices, and overheating protection devices. This all applies to original designs rotary hammers Bosch 2-20, 2-24, 2-26.

But not everyone knows that along with the originals, there are also fakes. This fully applies to Bosch rotary hammers.
How to distinguish a real hammer drill from a fake or a Chinese-made tool?

Just a few words about Chinese rotary hammers from famous brands.
Chinese rotary hammers, manufactured under license or at Chinese factories owned by Bosch companies (Dremel, Rotozip, Skil), are no different in quality from Bosch rotary hammers produced in Germany.

Last time Western manufacturers are trying to locate their production in China. The difference between a Chinese and a branded hammer drill lies in the system for receiving the finished product.
For Bosch rotary hammers manufactured in China for Western Europe, there are two levels of control: factory acceptance and acceptance in the purchasing country. Chinese hammer drills shipped to Western Europe, undergo factory acceptance, and upon arrival in the customer country, they are checked there using incoming control.
The remaining rotary hammers that have not passed factory control in Chinese factories are sent to third countries. But they are made from the same parts, on the same lines, by the hands of the same workers. And they cost 4–5 times cheaper. The quality is no different.

When buying any instrument, first of all pay attention to the appearance.

Remember Golden Rule: If the appearance of the Bosch case or hammer differs from the original, there may not be a branded tool inside.

Classification of Bosch rotary hammers

Bosch rotary hammers are conventionally divided into professional and household.
Household hammer drills weigh significantly less than professional ones with a power of up to 900 W. Among the disadvantages of household rotary hammers, we highlight poor cooling of the electric motor and high recoil upon impact.

The advantages of professional Bosch rotary hammers include:

• high power;
• efficiency in engine cooling;
• the presence of vibration damping devices;
• long-term operation.

Among the disadvantages, two main ones should be noted: high prices and heavy weight.

How to spot a fake Bosch hammer drill

By appearance, you can quite easily determine whether it is a fake or an original.
You need to start getting acquainted with Bosch rotary hammers by examining the suitcase (case) in which the tool fits.

Identifying a fake by the appearance of the case for transporting Bosch rotary hammers

When inspecting the appearance of the suitcase for transporting Bosch rotary hammers, pay special attention to the inscriptions, various nameplates, latches, and the quality of casting.

When inspecting the appearance of the tool case for storing and transporting tools, pay special attention to the latches. They must have the Bosch logo imprinted on them. Fake Bosch rotary hammers simply do not have such an inscription on the latches.

When examining the suitcase, pay attention to the size of the gaps between the closing lids. There should be no gaps, or the minimum gaps around the perimeter should be the same everywhere. On fakes, the lids do not fit tightly and are skewed. On the covers you can see casting burrs and burrs.

Pay attention to the branded inscription on the suitcase. The original suitcase has a convex sign and inscription, made by casting, the so-called 3D signs. On a fake suitcase, the inscriptions are pasted on and can be easily removed with a fingernail.

Fake hammer drills have a special sticker with various codes, inscriptions and ciphers on the back of the suitcase. Don't pay any attention to her.

It is designed to divert your attention from the fake. The original simply does not have such a sticker.
The back of the original suitcase is stamped with the Bosch inscription and logo. There are no such embossed inscriptions on the fake.

To distinguish a fake Bosch rotary hammer from the original, you need to buy power tools in specialized stores and complete all the necessary documents.

Video of identifying fake Bosch rotary hammers by the appearance of the transport suitcase.

Let's open the suitcase.

Identifying a fake by the appearance of the housing of Bosch rotary hammers

On the original body, all inscriptions and icons are applied using the extrusion method. A fake puncher has inscriptions either glued on a film or each letter is glued on. These inscriptions and letters come off easily when picked with a fingernail. In the original this is impossible in principle.

There are Bosch 2-24 rotary hammers that have a blue body. As a rule, these are rotary hammers manufactured in Europe. They most often become the subject of counterfeiting. On a fake, the incorrectly applied inscription is immediately visible. Instead of the inscription Bosch 2-24, a set of letters and numbers are pasted on the fake, which at first glance resemble the inscription of the original.

Well, one last thing. On a factory-made Bosch rotary hammer, the inscriptions are applied by casting or extrusion. A fake Bosch rotary hammer has inscriptions pasted on self-adhesive tape.

These are the main characteristics of counterfeits, determined by the appearance of the power tool.

How to avoid counterfeits

To avoid falling for a fake, you need to follow several recommendations:
do not buy power tools by hand, in online stores, or in markets;
don't be fooled by low price, a quality tool cannot be cheap;
buy only in specialized power tool stores with all warranty documents completed

Don’t be gullible, don’t fall for simple tricks, don’t go after cheap prices.

Every man has at least a minimal set of power tools at home or in his garage. Most often it includes a hammer drill and grinder, an electric drill and a screwdriver, a jigsaw, etc.

If you need to update an existing one, or make an initial purchase of a tool, then a non-professional may have a problem with the choice, because... There are dozens of models on the market in a wide range various manufacturers. Help such buyers make right choice is what this article is intended to do.

Industrial power tools

As a rule, craftsmen are individuals and do not use industrial tools due to their narrow specialization and very high cost. It is advisable to purchase it exclusively for industrial enterprises, or use in construction. Only here it is possible to recoup its value with high dividends.

The following power tool manufacturers are the undisputed leaders in this segment:

Professional power tools

In the mentioned market segment of this product, a tool is presented that was initially designed to perform a limited number of available operations, which, as a rule, does not exceed three. But with the highest quality.

This tool is characterized by a significant resource and power, exceeding the value of a similar parameter for semi-professional and household tools. Professional models are more reliable, have increased wear resistance and are characterized by increased strength indicators (the body material more resistant to mechanical loads, including shock).

They allow you to work in continuous mode for much longer than is permissible for household tools. In this case, there is no damage to the armature, windings, brushes and other internal structural elements.

Tools related to the group under consideration, in mandatory have mechanical or electronic adjustment, allowing:

• smoothly change power;
• exclude sudden jerks during the work process at the start-up stage and during fixation;
• smoothly adjust the specified rotation speed;
• stabilize it as loads increase;
• protect the product from overload, automatically turning off when the specified values ​​are reached;
• set max torque.

This group includes the following brands:

A characteristic distinctive feature of the instruments belonging to this group is their Blue colour. All German instruments from this brand are reliable and affordable. That is why they are preferred quite often;

Household power tools

The tools presented in this market segment are produced exclusively for home use. Many models are made using a special ergonomic design, which gives them additional visual appeal, and are focused on greater versatility and ease of use.

The main disadvantage of this category of tool is the prohibition on their continuous use for more than 3 – 4 hours a day. Moreover, during this time it is recommended to take at least three breaks lasting up to 15 minutes (within an hour).

The main advantage is cost. Therefore, in cases where occasional use of the tool is planned, this is the best option.

Let's consider several major manufacturers of power tools of the mentioned class that are worthy of mention:

Mains or battery, what to choose

All offered power tools are divided into two groups. The first includes products that require external source power supply They are called network.

The second includes a tool that allows you to work regardless of the presence or absence of a network, which is powered by own battery. This tool is called a battery tool. This tool is characterized by ease of use, lightness and versatility.

The division mentioned applies to an instrument from any segment discussed earlier.

The advantages of network models are their power and increased reliability. But there are many situations. When performing work without using battery tool almost impossible.

This tool is better suited for work that requires frequent movement. Battery products are indispensable in explosive and fire hazardous areas.

The disadvantages inherent in such a tool are the periodic need for recharging, the significant cost of batteries and lower power ratings.

Russian manufacturers

On the shelves of specialized stores, a significant part of the power tools offered have Russian names. But, unfortunately, this does not always indicate that these goods were made in Russia.

Most of these products can be classified into two groups, which can roughly be called:

• Pseudo-Russian (a Chinese-made instrument from an unknown manufacturer, but under a Russian name);
• Assembled using the “screwdriver assembly” method on the territory of our country, but from the same Chinese (optionally from other) components of unknown origin.

And only a third of such power tools are actually developed and completely manufactured here.

Leading Russian manufacturers that offer their own products on the market are:

• IMZ (Izhevsk) is a huge diversified production facility producing weapons and microelectronics, devices for various purposes and power tools in a wide range. The products on the market are represented by the Baikal trademark (passed international registration);
• "Interskol", mentioned above. produces a wide range of power tools, but partly from imported components. The company owns a number of factories located in different parts of the world:
  • BEZ – Russia;
  • IPT – Italy;
  • Two factories in China (in the cities of Jinghau and Shanghai).

Some of the products of this manufacturer are manufactured at partner enterprises, such as:

• IMZ - Russia;
• GGP - Slovakia;
• Starmix - Germany;
• Sparky - Bulgaria;
• Rexon - Taiwan;
• Keyang - South Korea, etc.

• OJSC PNPK (Perm) – power tools are a by-product of this company;
• KZMI (Konakovo) - Production is carried out using imported equipment. The lineup includes about twenty types of power tools and pneumatic tools. The drills of this plant are considered one of the best among those produced in Russia. And this plant does not have screwdrivers among its products Russian production, analogues;
• EMZS "LEPSE" (JSC) Kirov produces electric shears, electric hammers and angle grinders;
• SEZ (Saratov);
• "Inkar-Parma" (LLC) - electric saw plant.

Power tools manufactured in Southeast Asian countries today account for up to half of the assortment that fills Russian shelves. This tool is offered in the lowest price category and can be presented to customers as products manufactured in the USA, Europe and even Russia. Many people know examples of the latter symbiosis. These are the brands of power tools:

• "Bison";
• "Caliber";
• "Energomash";
• “Progress – Tool”;
• "Resource";
• "Diopd";
• "Stavr";
• "Enkor";
• "Grad - M", etc.

Users of the site prefer to renovate apartments and build houses themselves. In order for the repair to be of high quality, and the construction of the house not to turn into a long-term construction, reliable assistants are needed - different types power tools. Many companies have a line of professional and amateur tools. We will tell you what a home master needs in our material.

You will learn the answers to the following questions:

• What is the difference between an amateur instrument and a professional one?
• What features of a power tool should you know before purchasing it?
• Does a home craftsman need professional devices?
• At what stage of work is it necessary to switch from an amateur device to a professional one?
• What basic set should any home craftsman have?

Main selection criteria

When thinking about purchasing a power tool, first of all, you need to decide on the scope of work. Hanging a chandelier or a picture in an apartment is one thing, but it’s a completely different matter when you have to build a cottage. If you can hang a picture using a conventional drill, then when building a cottage you will need a whole arsenal of mechanical assistants.

All types of power tools can be divided into battery-powered and electrically powered. It is also customary to divide it into amateur and professional.

Company specialist "AllTools" Alexander Dubov:

– Models of amateur and professional power tools differ significantly in price. The cost is affected by service life, reliability and functionality.

Two drills perform one task - drilling holes. But a professional drill is designed for long-term use throughout the entire working day. This is achieved through better cooling or the presence of overheating protection.

Such a drill may have electronic speed control, several speeds, a soft start function, and maintenance of constant speed under load.

Reliability, functionality and performance determine the class of the tool and affect its cost.

Company power tool expert BoschVasily Ivanov :

– Professional tools are designed to work on construction sites and in difficult conditions. It has increased resource and wear resistance. If frequent use is expected, then it is better to choose a professional one. If not frequent, then amateur.

When choosing a tool, you should pay attention to the fastening of the equipment, how quickly it changes, whether additional tools to replace it. Convenient location of controls and ergonomics are important.

Master Consultant hypermarket OBI Khodynskoye Pole Evgeny Babichev:

– A professional tool, unlike an amateur one, has better cooling, dust protection, a stronger body and higher quality parts. For example, a professional angle grinder has a metal bearing, while an amateur angle grinder has a plastic bushing.

The main differences between an amateur instrument and a professional one:

1. Working time:

• professional – 200 hours/month;
• amateur – no more than 20 hours/month.

2. Operating mode:

• professional – 40 minutes of work, 10 minutes of rest; designed for use no more than eight hours a day;
• amateur – 10 minutes of work, 10 minutes of rest; Designed for use no more than five hours per week.

Evgeny Babichev:

– To understand what tool you need, first of all, you need to determine for what work and in what mode it will be used.

For example, let's take a professional and an amateur drill-driver of two different manufacturers and consider their technical characteristics.

Characteristics of a professional cordless drill/driver:

• Battery charging time – 1 hour;

• torque – 30N/m;

• The set includes two rechargeable batteries;

• can screw a self-tapping screw measuring 4.2x150 into wood without pre-drilling;

• can work non-stop.

Characteristics of an amateur cordless drill/driver:

• Battery charging time – from 3 to 5 hours;

• torque – 11N/m;

• One battery is included;

• can screw a self-tapping screw measuring 4.2x65 into wood without pre-drilling;

• You cannot work non-stop.

Therefore, amateur devices will have to be stopped more often to cool or recharge. This can significantly increase repair or construction time while professional tool will allow you to complete the same amount of work in a shorter period of time.

When to switch from a amateur device to a professional one

Buying an expensive professional tool is a responsible step for a home craftsman.

Opinion of a forum member with a nickname Roracotta:

– It all depends on personal needs and preferences. If a person is no longer satisfied with an amateur instrument, then he acquires a professional one. I know several great craftsmen who have amateur tools, and this does not affect the quality of their work. It is not profitable for a home master to immediately purchase professional devices. I recommend that you first get better at it, and as your skill and experience grow, you will understand whether it is necessary to purchase a professional instrument.

Vasily Ivanov:

– In my opinion, a professional tool is necessary if a person is professionally engaged in repair or construction.

Alexander Dubov:

– It’s difficult to define a clear line. If you use a drill every six months to drill a couple of holes in the wall to hang a shelf, then it is irrational to buy a professional tool.

In some cases, a home craftsman should purchase so-called multitools - tools that perform several operations: from grinding and cleaning surfaces to cutting workpieces. Their capabilities depend on the set of equipment. One such tool can replace at least two – a grinder and a saw.

Also, before purchasing a device, you should consider what tasks will need to be solved in a year. If over time you will need to work with the tool more often and more intensively, then it makes sense to spend a little more money today. Then you won’t have to spend money on buying another, more functional model again.

Alexander Dubov:

– An amateur model is not as functional as a professional one and may not withstand heavy loads. If you are going to use a drill to build plasterboard partitions, decorate the facade of a house with siding, or in large-scale construction, and the work will be carried out every day, for several weeks in a row, then you can immediately think about purchasing a professional-class model.

Regardless of whether the model is amateur or professional, it must be of high quality and reliable!

What should be in a home master's arsenal?

Although the home workshop can be equipped almost endlessly, there is a basic set that any DIYer should have.

Alexander Dubov:

– The home craftsman’s arsenal can vary significantly depending on the tasks he faces. This could be renovation of an apartment or construction of a private house or cottage. Many people work in a garage or garage, where they need not only tools, but also devices for organizing the workplace and personal protective equipment.

Here is what is most in demand in everyday life:

1. Drill – necessary for drilling holes in wood, metal or plastic.

2. Cordless screwdriver - indispensable for assembly work where there are a lot of threaded connections.

Particularly convenient when there is no electricity. A cordless drill-driver can be a universal option, which can not only tighten fasteners, but also drill holes.

3. An impact drill or hammer drill is necessary for making holes in concrete and other solid substrates.

If you only need to make a few holes in concrete, then you can get by with just a hammer drill.

If you plan large-scale work on drilling brick, concrete or dismantling work (chipping tiles from walls, etc.), it is better to take a hammer drill.

4. Grinder (corner Grinder) – necessary for cutting metal and stone (concrete, brick, ceramic tiles).

You can install a peeling or grinding wheel for cleaning and polishing various surfaces.

5. Jigsaw – necessary for figure cutting wood, plywood and laminate.

It is necessary to have a set hand tools.

Alexander Dubov:

– Suitable for various types of work universal kit, which may include: a hammer, pliers, screwdrivers, wrenches and many attachments.

For specific tasks there are carpentry, plumbing and automotive kits.

FORUMHOUSE contains all the information. The topic of our form contains the most complete set of professional information. Read about when working with these devices. Find the answer to the question, what kind of power tool?

Today we’ll talk about the difficulties that may arise when buying an electric tool. We will learn to accurately identify a counterfeit, find “our” supplier, and determine an effective procedure for how to preparatory stage, and directly in the store. In general, let's focus on those points that various reasons not included in other articles.

Specifications. Learning to read a passport

The last point of our theoretical preparation will be to determine the necessary technical parameters. The main question: where to get information? There are two options: either on the manufacturer’s official website or from the user manual. Option three (product description in a web store) is erroneous, since few merchants bother to search for absolutely reliable information and check the printed text. Finding a competent and honest consultant is even more difficult.

So what do we need to know to shortlist potential buyers? Usually we look at the power of a product, its speed (number of revolutions or strokes per unit of time), torque - all this is good, but performance indicators (depth of processing) for various materials or the size of the maximum permissible equipment.

The next point is the duration continuous operation. As we have already said, the application coefficient is the main indicator of the “professionalism” and endurance of the unit. Indeed, is there any sense in having a super-powerful motor if, after five minutes of heavy work, the tool must take a 10-minute “smoke break” (even this happens). There are extremely vague formulations such as “for long-term operation” or “the tool can be used for an 8-hour shift, but not more than 240 minutes per day.” Some manufacturers discreetly keep silent about operating modes at all. Obviously, their tool is a pig in a poke.

Maintenance frequency. This point is not always indicated in the documentation, since the specific timing directly depends on the load on the tool. However, if you are told that after three dozen hours of work in the car it is necessary to replace the internal lubricant, then it turns out that with four hours of work a day, once a week you will have to go to the service center for maintenance. Be sure to pay attention to the frequency of brush replacement, or more precisely, to their average (because it depends on the load) service life. According to Feng Shui, the right tool it is designed so that when the brushes are worn out, then the time comes to do full-scale maintenance.

Be aware of any operating restrictions ( permissible loads, dust, humidity, temperatures, vibrations, noise...), prescribed for the unit in the passport - the more of them, the less reliable and safe the device in front of you. This applies only to a branded instrument; manuals for “noname” models usually talk about unconditional versatility. It happens on the contrary, young brands offer the consumer to carefully monitor their instrument: periodically disassemble the body to replace wear parts and brushes, to clean the commutator from copper oxides, etc., etc. It is clear that we will have to look for their service, since during warranty period The fillings must not be touched. Imagine a cordless screwdriver that cannot be used in temperatures below zero, or an angle grinder that is intended for indoor use only.

What does the price say?

If left overboard clean water counterfeit and uncertified tools, it will become obvious that units of the same class (with similar performance characteristics) cost approximately the same. That is, the cheaper the model, the simpler it is, perhaps intended for non-commercial use. True, there are pleasant exceptions, for example, if an authorized retail outlet decided to quickly get rid of a certain amount of goods, for example, to free up funds for the purchase of a new batch. Do not be afraid of promotions and special offers, provided that the seller is not in doubt. We also note that large stores with a high turnover and direct deliveries can afford to slightly reduce the retail price. Moreover, in the periphery, the cost of tools and especially equipment and consumables is much higher. Seriously affect money issue some auxiliary elements - cases and useful devices, additional attachments and batteries, fast chargers, replacement cartridges, factory lubricant. Sometimes it makes more sense to buy a “bare” device and equip it with the things you really need.

We carry out field tests

So, we have prepared well theoretically, and even selected several models from catalogs that, in our opinion, will cope with the tasks. Now they should be tested in reality. Ask the seller to remove the product from the packaging and allow you to power the instrument.

Listen to his work, the noise should be moderate and monotonous, without jerks or dips. It is especially useful to listen to the mechanics after a shutdown, when everything moves by inertia. The louder the instrument, the worse it is assembled. Loud noises may indicate poor lubrication, poor-quality bearings, lack of balancing.

Run the unit at low speeds and evaluate the spindle runout and rod deflection. Ask for the equipment to be installed and do the same with it. Pay attention to how quickly the equipment stops after turning off the power (unless the model is equipped with an electrodynamic brake). A sudden stop indicates a problematic assembly.

Load the tool in different modes, this is how you can understand the true power of the unit and the quality of the work performed. Official retail outlets usually allow you to test the tool in action; you will be provided with a workpiece, equipment and a specially designated place without any problems.

Check how auxiliary systems and options, buttons and switches work. Feel the force of the air flow cooling the engine; sometimes there is no “wind” at all.

One thing: Whatever you choose, only compare classmates with similar characteristics.

If the sea trials were successful, you can begin a superficial inspection:

1. Evaluate the ergonomics of the tool - the comfort of the handles, dimensions, layout, accessibility of controls.
2. Pay attention to how quickly the equipment changes and how securely it is fixed.
3. “Shake” the car, focus on its balance.
4. Weigh the tool by hand. Be careful. A small mass is, on the one hand, a plus, but, on the other hand, it can indicate a small number of metal parts. Therefore, we compare only direct competitors by class.
5. Consider the power cord. It must be securely fixed in the tool, have a long protective sleeve at the inlet and an unquestionable cross-section (thickness). A power cable length of less than 3 meters is not unreasonably considered bad manners. The exception is corded chain saws.
6. Carefully inspect the case for mechanical damage (chips, cracks, grease leaks, abrasions, signs of tampering). Many of them may cause warranty repair to be denied. Others may mean the fact that the unit was in use (for example, for the needs of a store) or was returned to the retail outlet and repaired. If in doubt, ask for another copy.
7. See if there is metal parts traces of corrosion are a sign of improper storage.
8. Collect all the auxiliary elements: stops, soles, guides. Everything must be securely and accurately fixed, without bending, knocking, or modernization.
9. Check all elements of the unit for play. The fewer of them there are, the higher quality the product you hold in your hands.

We make the purchase correctly

Before you head home, being the proud owner of a new device, you need to take a few more small steps. First, we check the completeness of the package (simply check the contents of the case with the corresponding list from the manual). Secondly, we check that the warranty card is filled out correctly:

• full name of the instrument;
• catalog number and serial number (check the nameplate);
• number cash receipt(it’s better to immediately attach the check to your passport);
• living stamp of a trade organization;
• Date of sale;
• seller's name and signature.

Now you can relax, at this stage you have done everything you could. If you are a novice user, do not rush to immediately destroy and assemble, first familiarize yourself with the rules for safe operation of power tools, as well as the main nuances for correct operation - we discussed these issues in detail in previous articles. We wish you good luck with your work.

What does the term “professional” mean in this case? The most direct and correct interpretation– intended for work on a commercial basis, that is, generating income for the master. The popular point of view that the differences between a professional instrument and a “household” (amateur) one are only in the level of manufacturing is, to put it mildly, incorrect. This means that it is impossible to determine the difference by technological features alone.
All aspects are equally important here: the ability to withstand intensive use, ensure low fatigue, high accuracy and productivity, as well as payback. The last factor combines the ratio of initial cost and resource, availability and cost of maintenance, and reliability.

Nutrition

The second most popular tool after a hammer is a drill. A machine whose operating principle is extremely simple. All that is required is an easy-to-grip body and a motor to rotate the drill clamped in the chuck. Is it possible to complicate things here? It turns out that it is possible and even necessary. Let's begin with different materials require different speeds of rotation of the equipment, and the “drill” itself determines the speed of rotation. So, with an increase in the diameter of the hole being made, it is necessary to reduce the “revolutions”. Here's the reason for the first complication: the rotation speed needs to be adjusted. An electronic unit built into the start button or separate from it is responsible for this. An extremely simple case is simple modulation of the input signal over time, that is, regular on/off. The effective voltage value changes, and with it the maximum engine speed.

This is exactly how the typical for amateur drill scheme. Its main disadvantage is that by reducing the frequency, we inevitably lose the torque reserve that is so necessary when working with viscous materials and/or large equipment. Now, if the “block” monitored the load and added watts at the moment when they were needed... This is exactly how circuits at the next level of complexity, worthy of a professional tool, function. Of course, the speed will still “float” depending on the load, but not within such large limits. Work will become more comfortable, more accurate and more productive.

Motor

The power supply for a “professional” motor is understandable. Now about the “heart” itself. They all have the same design - a commutator electric motor, but the execution is different. The efficiency, and therefore the heating, depends on the size and uniformity of the magnetic gap (between the armature and the stator). A low-quality motor overheats quickly. If it does not “burn out” immediately, the increased thermal load quickly destroys the wire insulation in the coils, interturn short circuits appear, and the destruction process progresses... But what prevents you from maintaining accuracy? This includes equipment, assembly culture and, of course, hull rigidity. By the way, the type (in fact, the cost) of the insulating varnish and hardening impregnation used also determines a lot - this is resistance to overheating and abrasive wear from sucked dust.

The next problem that requires high technological costs is mechanics. At idle, the rotor develops colossal speeds - 20-30 thousand per minute. Not every bearing can withstand this. Required condition ensuring reliability - using high-quality components, but this is not enough, it is important good protection from dust and tight fit. It is best if the front bearing is seated in the metal of the gearbox housing or, if it is not separate, in its metal shield. Household models often have neither a body nor a shield...

The rear support for all models is usually plastic. On high-quality machines there is a rubber bushing between the clip and the “bed”. If it is not there, there is a high risk of the entire bearing turning, which means immediate melting of the seating area and failure of the tool. Note that simply the absence or presence of a rubber ring says little - on household tools it may not be durable enough, and at a professional level it may be replaced with another modification, for example a tie clamp.

Another difficulty associated with turnover is balancing. Manufacturers of only household tools often do not have the equipment to accurately correct imbalances. A typical feature of products from such a plant is holes drilled in the armature cage. But if instead of them there are neat slots, it means the technology is up to par.

Gearbox

Rotation has been obtained, the next stage is its transfer to the cartridge. The drive gear teeth are always cut on the front shank of the armature shaft. If its metal is of the wrong grade or poorly heat-treated, rapid wear is inevitable. For the same reason, sudden “death” can occur - when a thick drill jams, the soft shaft can lead. Such a defect is atypical for a high-quality household tool, and even more so for a professional one.

If the drill is highly specialized, it has one pair of wheels in the gearbox; if it is universal, it has several. “Synchronizers” are responsible for the smoothness and accuracy of gear shifting; their task is to align the teeth of the pair being switched on, even if they do not match. For professional drills, their presence is the rule; for household ones, it is rather the exception.

In the gearbox, the torque increases many times, and the loads also increase. This is one of the reasons why a professional drill needs a strong and rigid gear housing. The best option is metal: it also provides good heat dissipation. But such a box is heavy, so professional models often use a plastic case. The external resemblance to a household machine is so great that one is tempted to wonder: is there a difference? Yes, and a very significant one!

In addition to internal reinforcing elements (cast metal shields), professional models have other secrets. The worst case is considered to be a case made of thin and smooth (shiny) plastic. The mirror-like cleanliness of the surface indicates that no filler was used - fiberglass. It makes molding difficult and worsens the appearance. Some manufacturers solve this problem by increasing the binder content. This increases strength, but manufacturing accuracy suffers. Of course, the clumsy appearance is not so bad, but loose joints are already a serious flaw... Some of the famous companies also use original compositions, achieving unique qualities. For example, DeWALT makes models with glass-filled nylon bodies - they are strong, rigid and non-fragile.

Many household models have a gearbox with a metal housing. Maybe this equates them to professionals? Unfortunately no. It is important not only to make the casting, but also to process it well - uneven planes require thick gaskets that reduce rigidity, but this does not make the body airtight. And in professional models there are gearboxes assembled without gaskets or sealants at all, and the joints “don’t sweat” (I’ve seen this on Bosch models).

Gears and lubrication

Gears are mainly made using powder metallurgy methods; in rare cases, teeth are cut on machines. But mechanical processing is mandatory, although in household analogues it is often neglected. At the same time, the abrasion resistance decreases and large gaps are initially created.

Speaking about mechanics, one cannot fail to mention the most important component of durability - lubrication. Her selection is subtle and difficult task, the solution of which depends on the features temperature regime, loads in friction pairs and materials. A high-quality instrument can use compositions with very different external properties. It is clear that competent service is impossible without high-quality service support, but where can you get it if you purchase a product from a fly-by-night company?

“Everything in a person should be beautiful...” The same can be said about the instrument: both the filling and the appearance. Ergonomics depend on the shape, layout and weight distribution. Household models are made according to standard patterns, and companies engaged in the manufacture of products for professionals conduct their own research. This is only to the advantage of the master - you can always choose a car for yourself. At the same time, designers, if necessary, go off the beaten path, creating planetary gearboxes, adding angular gears (AEG ErgoMax), rotary brush holders and other unusual innovations.

Hammers

Close “relatives” of drills are hammer drills. Their fundamental difference is in the device impact mechanism– it is compression-vacuum. A tool of this type is complex both from a design point of view and from a technological point of view. As for the drive and power supply, the device and the differences between “amateurs” and “pros” are completely similar to drills.

The most important internal parts of a hammer drill are the cylinder, its drive and the firing pin. Design complexity – compact placement. Why do most household models have a vertical layout and bulky dimensions? You shouldn’t think that it’s because of the generosity of the manufacturer, who spared no metal to create a “killer” machine... In defiance of this approach, modern professional hammer drills are usually “packed” so tightly that disassembling them is impossible without the use of special tools. The result is a convenient and lightweight, but at the same time productive tool for efficient work. By the way, companies specializing specifically in household tools often neglect the torque limiting clutch, and it is very important for safety!

Engineering work at the design stage is also of utmost importance. Calculation of the dynamics of the impact mechanism gives swipe with low returns. On powerful machines this is not enough, so they install shock-absorbing handles (Milwaukee Kango) or come up with other moves. Pneumatics must be efficient and not suck in outside air (there is a lot of dust!). Lubrication is generally a separate issue: its properties should facilitate rapid access to operating mode and ensure low wear (if there is an excessive amount of lubricant, too much power will be expended).

Rubber seals must remain elastic for a long time, resisting abrasion and high temperature. The firing pin is susceptible to riveting. Of course, when developing such complex products Innovations from leading companies could not fail to appear, for example, the authorship of the world-wide SDS-Plus and SDS-Max clamp types belongs to Bosch.

The lightweight and powerful hammer drill is convenient to use as a low-speed drill. In a domestic class, to implement this opportunity, it will be necessary to install an adapter cartridge, which increases the longitudinal dimension and introduces “laxness” into the design. Professionals are able to surprise here too, for example, in the DeWALT D25104K-QS, the clamp for the drill is removable, and a cartridge is installed instead (replacement is done with a slight movement of the hand). A similar system is found in both Bosch (models with the DFR index) and Milwaukee (PLH 32 XE). And here is an example of a different kind - Elmos BM-60: this tool has a two-speed gearbox, the metal body of which is covered with plastic for safety reasons (to protect against burns when touched); The reverse function also allows for screwdriver work.

Cordless tool

However, such giant companies as Bosch, DeWALT and Milwaukee are able to offer absolutely incredible developments in this area: cordless rotary hammers. It is clear that there are no traces of any household analogues here: there are self-powered drills and screwdrivers, but rotary hammers are much more “gluttonous.” That's why modern models cordless hammer drills have a voltage of 24 or 36 V.

By the way, the differences are easy to judge by traditional models. The first thing you notice when comparing a good professional screwdriver with an amateur one is the difference in torque. Increasing it without reducing output speed (it entails a loss of performance) is impossible with engine modernization alone (relatively simple). Motorists will easily understand the analogy with starting a car - even a working starter can barely turn the engine when the battery is useless.

Naturally, the operating time on one charge is also a topic for comparison. However, it is not the only one that is important - being equipped with spare batteries and fast charger, the “pro” is able to work continuously. To reduce charging time use different technologies– battery cases are made metal or perforated (facilitates heat dissipation), and “smart” electronics are installed that control the voltage and charge cycle. It was the development of these technologies that allowed the birth of many tools, the autonomy of which was previously unthinkable: construction vacuum cleaner(DeWALT), miter saws, circular saws and other saws (Bosch, DeWALT, Elmos, Milwaukee). There are also simply original ones, even if they don’t require high technology, but clearly not typical: for example, Elmos even makes a cordless stapler and jigsaw.