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The design of the greenhouse must not only have an aesthetic appearance, but also be functional. A greenhouse that was built with your own hands or was purchased in finished form, should generate income regardless of the time of year. If you have an idea on your own, then the question may arise about how to bend a profile for a greenhouse with your own hands without using any special devices.

You can buy a frame for a greenhouse or make it yourself. In order to bend the frame, you will need special equipment. devices - pipe bender or machine.

Eg, winter greenhouse arched type, which is heated, turns the need to bend the profile for this design into an urgent need.

The frame made of aluminum profiles is durable, lightweight, requires minimal maintenance, and can be easily fixed with your own hands.

Greenhouses that use profile designs

Greenhouse frame made of aluminum profile with a multi-pitched roof is a strong, reliable, lightweight structure.

Elements that are made from profiles are used in many types. The multi-pitched roof of an octagonal greenhouse has robust construction. The material for the frame in this case will be an aluminum profile.

The profile can be forged, shaped, rolled. It rolls up into coils. Aluminum profiles can be processed mechanically: twisted, drilled, cut out. Structures made from this type of profile can be connected with synthetic resins or secured with rivets and bolts.

The profile can be shaped, full, intended for the manufacture of greenhouses, racks, and shelving. The shaped profile can be bent, drilled, cut, so that it can be used in the manufacture of the structure.

The aluminum profile frame is lightweight, durable, requires minimal maintenance, and can be strengthened with your own hands.

The greenhouse has a long service life (20-25 years). A significant disadvantage of a greenhouse is that it is too expensive to build with your own hands.

Occupies a leading position in the market. Products made from it are durable, comfortable, and cheap.

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Greenhouses that use a bent profile

When building an arched greenhouse, the profile needs to be curved.

The profile will need to be bent during the construction of a multifunctional building. It will be necessary to bend the profile for the arch, which goes vertically upward from the base and is bent in the middle. It uses a frame, the strength of which can be ensured by the connection of posts and beams. A dome-shaped greenhouse is constructed from polygonal frames (metal or aluminum) and is difficult to assemble with your own hands. All frame material should be selected based on, as well as its size.

When building arched greenhouses, it is necessary to prepare 12 flexible rods for half-arches. Their length should be 1.5 m. For a tall greenhouse (1.8 m high), you will need to prepare 10 rods, which have a diameter of 30 mm and a length of 2.9 m.

Creating a frame begins with identifying holes for flexible rods. They are drilled out, after which the support stands are prepared. When installing the main frame with your own hands, you may need to carefully bend the metal rods in an arc.

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How can you bend a square pipe for a polycarbonate greenhouse arc?

In order to bend the pipe, you can use a homemade pipe bender.

When made of polycarbonate, there is a need to bend square pipe, which has a cross-section of 20x20 mm. The diameter between their ends is 3 m.

You will need to prepare the tools in advance:

• ruler;
• bending machine;
• pipes for bending (profile);
• Bulgarian;
• pencil;
• welding.

The pipe may bend bending machine, which is made by hand. The machine is rotated by a handle, but the work requires more effort if its wall is 1-2 mm. Without using a machine, you can bend it by hand using parallel pipes, but you will need to first fasten them together. An arc of the corresponding radius is drawn on the ground. You should attach a curved product to it and bend it so that the original fully matches the drawn drawing. The second arc bends similarly to the first.

The pipe is first divided into several equal intervals, filed with a grinder and then bent according to the existing template. The undercut areas are processed by spot welding.

The profile is light and durable, connects well to absolutely any plane, and can withstand large lateral loads.

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Profile bending using a machine

The service life of a profile greenhouse can reach 20-25 years. Therefore, care should be taken to ensure high-quality assembly of the frame.

The developer who bends the profile knows that this operation is quite complex. It can be made using a factory-made pipe bending machine or a home-made one. One of possible methods profile bending is to use a fire source - a propane cutter, an acetylene torch or a blowtorch. One part is heated, after which the lever bends it at an angle. Disadvantages of this type of work: great physical effort is required, which results in an unaesthetic appearance after processing the product.

The operation of bending a profile on a pipe bending machine is performed more accurately and quickly. Using a handle, the profile is pulled along the rollers of the pipe bender, while another roller presses on the pipe and deforms it. A pipe bender passes a pipe through itself and makes an arch of the required radius from it. Bending is performed at an angle of 30-180° (on pipe benders with hydraulic drive). Using a manual pipe bender, you can bend pipes to winter period time or to install ventilation devices.

Tools you will need to make a pipe bender:

• lead screw;
• 3 rollers;
• workpiece;
• bracket with a clamping axis;
• sample;
• channel;
• steel pipes having a diameter of 70-150 mm;
• welding;
• concrete solution;
• metal table.

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The process of making a homemade pipe bender

A homemade pipe bender can be made from two pipes and two rollers.

A homemade pipe bender is made of 2 pipes. Their diameter can be from 70 to 150 mm. With help concrete mortar they must be fixed in the slab. They can also be secured by welding to the channel. The pipes are located at a distance of 600 mm from each other. A pipe is installed between the racks, after which it is bent at an angle with force.

The rollers are placed on axes. They need to be placed at the same level, and the distance between them should be approximately 50 cm. The third roller is located in the center. It must be raised to a level of 100 mm. The jack should lift the roller and adjust the bend radius of the pipe. A homemade pipe bender will bend a rolled profile to make a greenhouse or greenhouse structure. A pipe with a thin wall will need to be covered with sand at one end, and then inserted into a pipe bender. After treatment, sand should be removed. The diameter of the product should be the same along the entire length.

The profile pipe has different sections: oval, round or rectangular. A pipe bender differs from a similar machine for ordinary pipes. The product and the rollers have the same cross-section.

During production, the roller is installed on a metal table. A bracket is attached to the axle, which has a clamping axle. A roller should be installed on the axis, which copies the pipe profile. The workpiece must be fed by hand. As it passes, the product will be pressed against the roller. It is pulled several times between the rollers, resulting in the necessary bend. Ready material attached to the template.

When finishing internal surfaces It is often necessary to give the source material a certain, non-standard shape. For these purposes, plasterboard is actively used today, the use of which allows you to create arches, suspended ceilings and others. original designs. It is distinguished by its relatively low price, environmental friendliness and a number of other factors that determine its popularity.

How to bend drywall without compromising the integrity of the original material? To create non-standard structures, it is recommended to purchase a special type of gypsum board: arched. However regular sheets suitable for such purposes.

Features of the material

The material today is actively used in creating various partitions, leveling walls, and organizing arches. Moreover, each of these structures may have niches, transitions and other elements, the manufacture of which requires special knowledge explaining how to correctly bend drywall and give it the required shape.

This material is based on compressed gypsum, which is covered on both sides with layers of paper. It is the presence of such a middle part that determines the high plasticity of the plasterboard sheet. However, despite the many advantages that arched plasterboard has, it has a number of significant disadvantages:

• When attaching a sheet with self-tapping screws, serious difficulties can arise. This is explained by the fact that the gypsum is additionally reinforced with glass fibers, which increase its strength.
• High price relative to standard types of gypsum boards. That's why arched plasterboard Recommended for use only when creating bent shapes.

Installation of drywall is most often carried out on a pre-prepared structure made of steel profiles. This frame facilitates the process of creating original forms and allows you to secure the source material.

Basic conditions for bending

When bending gypsum plasterboard, it is important to understand what it has limit value load, which this material able to withstand. In order to maintain its integrity, certain conditions must be observed when working with it:

• the sheet cannot be bent in the transverse direction;
• the smaller the radius of curvature of the created shape, the thinner the starting material should be;
• when bending with the front part outward, the maximum radius should be more than 100 cm;
• when bending with the front part inward, the radius must exceed 60 cm;
• installation finished design produced in two layers.

If the above conditions are not met, then over time the sheet will return to its original shape, tearing the screws out of the profile.

Frame making

When considering the question of how to bend drywall, one cannot help but note that it is difficult to handle such manipulations. In this regard, when manufacturing non-standard structures, they use steel frames. In particular, they are suitable for creating arches.

Step by step bending process metal profile as follows:

• Guides and main posts are prepared.
• The blanks are carefully cut along the entire length into equal parts. The optimal depth is five centimeters.
• Each cut should be parallel to the other. Otherwise the semicircle will turn out uneven.
• The profile is applied to the wall and gradually curves at the required angle. If necessary, the finished form can be created on the floor.

It is important to note that cuts on the metal profile are made either on the inside or on the outside, depending on what type of circle you want to end up with. Fastening to the surface is done using dowels or crabs. Subsequently, drywall is mounted on the frame.

"Dry" and "wet" bending methods

So, how to bend drywall? To do this, two methods are used, differing in approach:

• "dry";
• "wet".

Depending on which bending method was chosen, you will additionally need to prepare the following:

• stationery knife;
• needle roller(awl);
• pencil with ruler;
• brush or roller for wetting;
• putty (gypsum is recommended);
• gloves;
• wooden blocks;
• plywood sheet;
• self-tapping screws;
• metal profiles.

Before starting work, a template is cut out of plywood, on the basis of which the structure will be made in the future.

"Wet" method

The most popular method of bending drywall is the “wet” method. It is relatively simple and does not require special training from the installer. Gypsum absorbs liquid well, while becoming more flexible.

The process of making a given shape is as follows:

• Liquid is evenly applied to the original sheet using a roller or brush. It is recommended to lubricate both sides of it so that the water completely penetrates through the paper layer. In this case, it is necessary to avoid contact of the middle part of the plaster with the liquid.
• The gypsum board becomes ready for use in about 30 minutes.
• One of the ends of the sheet is attached to the template. Then, applying little force to the other end, the material is bent.
• After the second end touches the template, it is also secured.
• The sheet should dry within 24-36 hours.

The described procedure is possible provided that the correspondence between the radius of curvature and the thickness of the material is observed. For these purposes, you can use the following table:

How to bend drywall for an arch? This design requires achieving a larger angle, so many small punctures must be made on the source material before wetting. To do this, use a needle roller or an awl. Moreover, punctures are made only from the part that will subsequently bend.

The sheet is placed on the template so that it central part coincided with the axis of the template. In this case, the radius of the latter should not exceed the thickness of the material.

"Dry" method

You can bend drywall using the “dry” method. In this case, you need to be guided by the following table:

The “dry” method is used only in cases where the required bend has a small radius. The method involves the use of pre-prepared metal frame. The last procedure was described above.

The extreme supports of the future frame must have maximum strength, since they will bear heaviest load. A sheet of drywall is attached to the outer profile using self-tapping screws and gradually bends with effort. At the end of this procedure, several self-tapping screws are screwed into the other edge of the gypsum board. The sheet should remain in this position for 48-72 hours.

Drywall cutting

Cutting is used in cases where sharp bends or structures of rather complex shape are required. The procedure is usually performed with a utility knife.

Using a tool, cuts are made on one side of the drywall, parallel to each other. The bending radius directly depends on the distance between them. Each cut should end approximately 1-3 mm from the edge of the sheet. While creating non-standard forms You can use the following tips:

• Manufacturing a structure with a smaller radius is possible if you make U-shaped cuts.
• By making V-shaped cuts, you can bend the material in the opposite direction.

Attaching drywall to the profile is carried out, as in other cases, using self-tapping screws.

One of the popular types of construction metal products is a profile, which is pipes of oval, square or rectangular cross-section. Rectangular and square steel pipes are widely used in the manufacture of metal structures, load-bearing structures, canopies, and prefabricated frames. They are used in private housing construction (for the construction of fences, greenhouses, various gazebos and awnings).

The only drawback is the more complex process of bending them and giving them the desired shape. Let's take a closer look at how to bend it yourself profile pipe.

Manual bending

Let's talk about how you can bend pipes manually.

Hot bending method

The simplest manually is “hot bending”. This method allows you to obtain fairly smooth lines and the required shape without significant changes in the profile geometry. To prevent flattening during bending, the pipe is filled with dried quartz sand. To do this, a wooden wedge plug is hammered into one end and, after filling it with dried sand, the other end is also plugged with a similar plug. A small hole is drilled at one end of the pipe so that air can escape freely. Next, the required area is locally heated using gas welding and the required form. As a replacement for gas welding, you can use a blowtorch or gas torch for heating.

The pipe should not be overheated, as this will inevitably lead to the appearance of scale and a decrease in the quality of the metal. Repeated heating also degrades the quality of the metal, so try to bend the metal the first time.

After obtaining the required shape, remove the plugs and pour out the sand (it can be reused if necessary). The easiest way to remove plugs is to heat the ends of the pipe with a torch. As they burn, the wedges fall out easily.

Using sand for packing avoids breaks and improper deformation. With a certain skill, you can bend the profile quickly enough, so you shouldn’t even try to do it without filling it with sand - you’ll just ruin the material.

It should be remembered that galvanized pipes cannot be bent in this way, because during heating, the zinc layer will burn and cease to perform its anti-corrosion function.

Bending method using welding

An alternative way to do manual bending at home is to use welding and a grinder. In this case, the work is done as follows:

• First you need to calculate the required radius of curvature.
• Next, to facilitate the process, using a grinder, uniform transverse cuts are made along the entire length of the bend on three sides of the profile (with outside planned bend).
• At the next step, the profile pipe is given the required shape, the cuts are welded and the weld seams are ground.

Bending using pipe benders

A pipe bender is a device or machine designed to change the shape of a pipe. The equipment allows you to perform bending in accordance with the required shape and size. Its correct use allows you to maintain the strength characteristics of the material, while avoiding flattening and creases.

Depending on the type of drive, pipe benders are:

• Manual.
• Electromechanical.
• Hydraulic.

Main advantage hand tools is simplicity and relative cheapness. But working with them requires significant physical effort, so using them for large volumes of work is quite tiring.

Hydraulic and electromechanical equipment does not require significant effort during operation, which allows you to bend pipes quickly and accurately.

Choosing the optimal bending method

If the amount of work is one-time and small, then it would be optimal to use “hot bending” or manual machine. As an option, you can not purchase a manual pipe bender for one-time work, but rent it.

If you constantly need to bend profile pipes, then it makes sense to purchase equipment or make it yourself.

You can also find a company that has specialized equipment - profile benders, which allow you to quickly and efficiently complete any amount of work and give pipes a complex and intricate shape. If the price of services suits you, then this option most preferable for large volumes of work.

By selecting the best way and by doing the work carefully, you will get more attractive and easy-to-use pipes (compared to round ones) that will find wide application in the process of improving the area of ​​your home.

Video

We bring to your attention a story that shows the work of a homemade pipe bender.

When constructing any structure made of plasterboard, you need a base - a frame, on which the gypsum board sheets are attached. This frame is assembled using technology from special products - profiles. About what a profile for drywall can be, its types and sizes, scope of application - in this article.

Materials: what are profiles for gypsum plasterboard made from?

Profiles for drywall of any type are made of steel and aluminum. Steel (regular or galvanized) are more common, since aluminum, although they have excellent characteristics, are very expensive.

Steel can be ordinary or with protective layer- galvanized. Conventional ones - made of black steel - have a lower cost and are suitable for rooms with normal operating conditions. With their help they make a suspended ceiling, in living rooms, corridors. In rooms with high humidity- bathrooms, kitchens, etc. - it is better to use galvanized steel or aluminum.

Types and sizes of profiles for drywall

In any place that sells materials for gypsum boards, there are profiles different types and size. In order to choose and not make a mistake, you need to know how they differ.

To create wireframes

There are profiles for drywall of the following types:

• Guide. Designated as PN (UD) (interpretation - guide profile). The cross-section is U-shaped, with smooth side walls. Used as a support base for racks and lintels. It is attached around the perimeter of the structure, and then all other elements of the system are installed into it. Dimensions:
  
• Rack-mounted. Designated PS (CD) - rack profile. It is inserted into the guides, and gypsum boards are attached to it. Accordingly, it bears the main load and must have high rigidity. It has a U-shaped structure with additional shelves and stiffening ribs, which give it greater rigidity. Dimensions:
  
• Ceiling. Designated PP and PPN. Accordingly, a guide and load-bearing ceiling profile. The ceiling guide has a cross-section in the shape of the letter “P” and has a smaller cross-section than the wall one. Ceiling support profile - has shelves and stiffeners, but is distinguished by shelves of lower height. Smaller height in order to “take away” less height from the room and what ceiling plasterboard It is thinner and creates less load on the frame.
  
• Arched. It has a complex structure - with cuts on the side edges for increased flexibility. Essential for creating curved surfaces.

These are all types of profiles for gypsum board that are used to construct the frame. A “frame” is assembled from the PN guides; PS racks are inserted into them, which are then connected by jumpers (usually from PN) for greater structural rigidity.

Additional profiles and accessories

There are several types of additional profiles that are used in finishing works, while creating hanging frame for ceilings, for attaching rack profiles to walls, etc.

• Angular. The cross section is a right angle with a slightly protruding central part. Used to decorate corners plasterboard structures. There are several types:
  
• Perforated hangers. This fastener in the form of a tape 125*60 mm. It is divided into three parts. The middle one is used to fix the suspension to the ceiling/wall, the outer ones are perforated, bend at 90°, and profiles are attached to them.

  

• Anchor hangers for PP (ceiling profiles). There are several types. Used in the construction of suspended ceilings. Distinctive feature— it’s easy to adjust the height, which is necessary when setting the ceiling plane.

  

  Anchor suspension - for easy height adjustment suspended ceiling

• Single-level and two-level connector for PP (crab). Plate with fixing elements for fastening intersecting profiles. Used in constructing frames for suspended ceilings.

  

  Connectors - single-level and two-level

• Profile extension. Small sizes bracket (110*58 mm) for splicing two sections of the same type and size.

You can do without most of these devices. For example, two profiles are spliced ​​using a piece of a guide profile suitable size. It is inserted inside, the shelves are pressed with pliers, and screwed with self-tapping screws. The connection is more rigid than with special devices.

When creating a frame located along the wall, it is secured not with perforated hangers, but with boots - sections of profiles bent in the shape of the letter “L” (called “boot” - after its characteristic shape).

Two ways to fix rack profiles to the wall - using a perforated hanger and a piece of profile

This is not so much a way to save money as it is an opportunity to get a more rigid fastening, since perforated hangers were originally developed for suspended ceilings and the load from wall plasterboard, and even laid in two rows, they can hardly stand it.

Profile length

The profile for each type of drywall may differ in length. Standard length- 2.4 and 2.8 meters. but there is up to 4 m.

Should I look for long profiles? This doesn't make much sense. Perhaps the assembly of the frame will speed up a little. Profiles for gypsum plasterboard fit perfectly together, the strength of the structure does not suffer. Only when assembling the frame should you make sure that the joints on adjacent racks are not at the same level. Usually joints are made alternately at the top, then at the bottom.

How to choose a profile for gypsum boards

In a more or less large hardware store or even on the market there are profiles for drywall of the same type and length, but with a significant difference in price. The cost may differ by two times, and sometimes more. Moreover, the most expensive are usually Knauf, the cheapest are unnamed China, the middle range is domestic manufacturers.

Metal thickness

The difference will become clear as soon as you pick up the profile. Some are strong, rigid, made of steel with a thickness of 0.5 mm, 0.55 mm, 0.6 mm and more. Others are made of such thin metal that they change their geometry even if the profile is lifted by one edge.

With this parameter everything is more or less simple and clear. The thicker the metal, the stronger and stiffer the profile, but the price is also higher. It is optimal to create partitions with standard wall heights to take profiles with a metal thickness of 0.5 or 0.55 mm. If possible, you can take 0.6 mm.

The dimensions are standard, but the weight of the same profile may be different - due to different thicknesses the metal from which it was made

It makes sense to take a greater thickness of metal only if the height of the partition is large - the load will be more significant and additional strength will not hurt. But in this case, you need to look at what will cost less - a profile for plasterboard made of thicker metal or more often installed racks and crossbars. You just need to keep in mind that racks are usually installed in increments of 60 cm - so that the joint of the gypsum board sheets falls in the middle of one of the rack profiles. When reducing the pitch, you need to achieve the same thing - the joint of the drywall sheets should not hang in the air. So it will be possible to install them only after 40 cm. So the seam will also be on the profile. But this is too much a large number of racks and is unlikely to cost less. In general, you do the math.

Manufacturer's choice

Choosing a manufacturer of drywall guides is both simple and difficult at the same time. All experts unanimously say that the best are Knauf. They always correspond to the stated parameters and have an ideal geometry: the racks fit perfectly into the guides, do not dangle or push them apart. In general, work with profiles for plasterboard Knauf easy, simple, work progresses quickly. But these are precisely the most expensive of the entire range. Despite this, the advice is this: if you have no experience working with drywall, it’s better to buy Knauf.

Average price range there are several Russian companies. These are Giprok (Giprok) and Metalist. There are also regional little-known campaigns. It depends on your luck. Trust your feelings and feedback. It is not always possible to rely on the words of sellers. Domestic manufacturers have good batches, and sometimes unsuccessful ones. In most cases, there is a problem such as a mismatch in the sizes of the rack-mount PS and the PN guide profiles. The posts must fit exactly inside the guide. In order for the stated width to be, for example, 50 mm, the actual width should be 1.5 mm less. Problems arise with the accuracy of observing this difference. In addition, the declared thickness of the metal must be checked (with a micrometer). In general, you will be able to save money, but you will waste a significant amount of your nerves and time.

Giprok has a profile with a corrugated surface. All sides of the profiles - both the back and the shelves - have extruded “pimples”. They increase the rigidity of the profile. This is true - the design is more rigid. But the connection of the racks and guides turns out to be more clumsy - due to the mismatch of the “pimples”, they do not attract closely like smooth metal walls. There is a second point - structures made from such profiles creak more. With all this, such profiles cost a little less than Knauf, but they are more difficult to work with. In general, it's up to you.

How to count the number of profiles

Knowing what type and type of drywall profiles there are, their dimensions are not enough. It is necessary to calculate the quantity of each type. It will be easier to calculate if you draw a frame plan on a piece of paper, sign the names of the profiles, and put down the dimensions. This will not take much time, but will help you determine the quantity more accurately.

Calculation of the number of guides for one wall

If the walls are very uneven, you can level them using drywall. A parallel wall is erected, but set strictly according to the level. In this case, the calculation of the number of profiles for drywall will be as follows:

If all the walls in a room are covered with plasterboard, a similar calculation is carried out for each wall, then the results are summed up.

Number of profiles for plasterboard for suspended ceilings - PP and PNP

The calculation here is a little simpler: the frame is assembled “in a cage”, so it’s easier to calculate it. Otherwise the approach is the same as described above. So we think:

In total, for a suspended ceiling in a room measuring 3*4 meters you will need 14 m + 20 m = 34 m of PP profile, 21 meter of PNP profile.

Of course, with the help of drywall you can level the surface of the ceilings and create all kinds of shapes and ornaments.

Real works of plasterboard on the ceiling can decorate any apartment or room. If only your imagination works.

The topic of our material is how to correctly bend drywall and install figured ceilings from plasterboard. Let's study ways to make some figured elements and designs with our own with my own hands.

How to bend drywall?

Possibility of production various forms and figures using drywall, of course, are available. Drywall is a dense material that holds its shape well, but can also break. Then what should we do? Calm down, your fears are premature.

Using special methods, it is easy to give plasterboard elements any desired shape. Of course, you will need to apply the knowledge that we are going to give you. If you have never mounted suspended ceilings, then we can also recommend reading the article on our website. But let’s not smear it and move directly to the description of the process:

• First of all, of course – a drawing

It starts with a drawing. A designer or architect can make a drawing for you. Before you bend drywall for an arch or other kiwilinear structure, you must understand where and how this will happen. Then follows the installation of a metal profile, onto which the sheets of cardboard themselves are attached.

The frame from the profile is the main element - the skeleton of the entire future design. The frame metal is galvanized and does not corrode. But he's so thin. “Will it hold up?” — you ask reasonably.

Yes. The metal has stiffening ribs that are formed during manufacturing and make it both strong and light.

• Secondly, let’s bend the profile

It is clear that in addition to bending the drywall, it is also necessary to bend the profile.

You have drawn the shapes you need (how to mark, for example, an oval ceiling can be found in the article), and you need to transfer the markings to the ceiling strictly according to the drawing.

If the ceiling is completely marked, you can freely proceed with the installation of the main load-bearing structure from metal profile.

NOTE

Before you tell us how to bend a profile for drywall, do not forget that during the installation process, the frame from the profile must strictly follow all marking lines.

Depending on the shape of the element, the profile should be bent inward or outward.

When a bend to the outside is required, you need to make the number of cuts you need, as shown in the diagram.

It is easy to cut the profile with ordinary metal scissors.

If it is necessary to bend the profile inward, cuts can be made at an angle.

The rigidity of the profile frame is very important.

Of course, the profile will not have smooth bends, but drywall will completely hide this drawback.

And yet, the most the best option will be when the direct contact of the drywall with the profile is very close.
When the work is done competently and accurately, the frame structure will be light and rigid.

IMPORTANT

A poorly assembled frame will lead to subsequent cracking of the drywall seams and possible complete collapse of the entire structure.

• And finally, the third difficult task— installation of the sheet (or element) itself.

Let's consider several options for deciding how to bend drywall with your own hands correctly:

Ways to bend drywall with your own hands

1 METHOD

Drywall at first glance is a rigid material, but it can be bent by simply pulling it with self-tapping screws to a profile frame.

The arc will not turn out to be too steep, but the figures on the plasterboard ceiling can be smooth and rounded; relatively smooth bends are not uncommon. Then it is better to take thin sheets for work.

Using self-tapping screws, you must tighten the sheet of drywall to the frame carefully and very evenly.

Let's present some characteristics regarding the bending radius, as well as the thickness of the plasterboard sheet.

ADVICE

When using a thin sheet of drywall, do two layers. But the first layer must overlap the second.

This is a pretty simple method. Prerequisites its implementation requires accuracy and attentiveness.

NOTE

If a sheet of cardboard is cracked, don’t be upset. Having secured it completely, use a knife to open the crack. Then (when finishing) it will be possible to fill it with putty and the seam will not be visible at all.

2 METHOD

Let's consider the second method of bending drywall in a semicircle in order to make figures with your own hands.
To make a sharp bend from a sheet of cardboard, follow these instructions.
You will need water and an ordinary awl.

• Cut out the mounted element from plasterboard.
• Get it wet.
• But first you need to use an awl to make a number of punctures on the sheet at the bend.
• The punctures are made across the sheet.
• However, the awl should only penetrate up to half the entire thickness of the sheet.

• The holes from the awl cannot be through. They must be done in several columns. This depends on the shape of the element required.

ADVICE

You can install a limiter on the awl, the same as on a drill bit.

• After making the punctures, the sheet must be wetted.
• Punctures are carried out only with inside sheet of cardboard.
• You can wet the puncture sites from the awl.
• The water must wet the sheet well.
• However, to speak at back side she shouldn't.

NOTE

You can carry out the soaking procedure trially on an unnecessary sheet of cardboard.

• Hydrated this way plasterboard sheet can be installed and secured.
• Once dry and fixed, it will take the desired shape.

The configuration of plasterboard ceiling elements can sometimes be very complicated, but this method will definitely help you.
The main difficulty is determining the start time of sheet bending. Use the advice on a test piece of cardboard.

3 METHOD

Another option for bending drywall in a semicircle is the element-by-element method.

The point is this.

• Small or narrow plasterboard elements are cut.
• Then they are attached to the frame one by one.
• Then, of course, all seams must be carefully puttied.

However, this method takes a lot of time and consumes extra material. (putty - for sure!)

4 METHOD

Finally, another option is to bend a sheet of cardboard.

• Perpendicular cuts to the sheet are made (on one side).
• The cuts will not be through, but will be made only to 70% of the thickness of the entire sheet.

IMPORTANT

Make cuts only hand hacksaw impossible. A circular saw with adjustment of the knife depth can help. But then the probability of sheet breakage is high in the places where the cut was made.

When the seams are still on the outside, then they are subsequently puttied in the same way as other elements of drywall.

Look interesting video on this topic.