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To reduce the renovation time in a house or apartment, it is better to lay a new floor covering on top of the old one. It should be borne in mind that old wooden floors are often uneven, and the surface must be leveled before laying the tiles. To do this, you should arrange a screed. It is made using two technologies: standard concrete pouring and dry method. Let's take a closer look at them.

Dry base

For several reasons this technology most preferable when working with wooden floors:

• ease of manufacture;
• low weight of the structure;
• good sound insulation;
• ease of laying communications;
• the opportunity to correct mistakes;
• no wet processes.

On a note! This last point means that when using the dry method, you do not have to wait for the floor to dry (unlike the cement base process).

This method also has several disadvantages. Such a screed wooden floor should be thicker than concrete (which reduces the height of the room). The consumption of materials will be higher than when creating a classic base for flooring. Dry base should not be done in rooms with high humidity, since the backfill absorbs any vapors.

The following can be used as backfill:

• expanded clay;
• vermiculite;
• perlite;
• compevit.

Expanded clay is the most common filler. It must be clean (no dust or sand), otherwise the floor will begin to creak very quickly. Suitable size grains - no more than 0.5 cm, they should be approximately the same size (otherwise smaller granules will fall between the larger ones, which may cause the floor covering to sag). Minimum thickness expanded clay layer - 3-4 cm.

On a note! If the material is not defective, the expanded clay granule in the section should be porous. To ensure their quality, expanded clay granules should be purchased in bulk and not in closed bags.

Work production technology

When starting work, assess the condition of the floors and existing flooring. Weak and damaged areas, rotten and moldy elements must be replaced. To do this, it is worth using the most dried parts to avoid rotting of the wood in the future.

If the boards sag, this can be corrected by laying additional joists. The heads of the nails that stick out above the surface must be buried with a hammer. Large irregularities can be cut off with a scraper or a plane.

How to make a screed?

The technology looks like this:

• Stretch a layer of insulation (film) over the entire area of ​​the room; it must have a slight overlap on the walls (above the level of the future coating);
• Take the edge tape and create a damper seam around the perimeter of the room;
• Fill the space with insulating and leveling dry material and distribute it evenly to the designed thickness;
• Lay a gypsum fiber sheet on top of the backfill (this should be done without creating cross-shaped joints);
• Next, lay the second layer of GVLV so that the seams of the first layer do not overlap the seams of the top one.

Important! The quality of the dry base is highly dependent on how the first fiber sheet was laid. Avoid the slightest distortion and burying in the backfill. It's better if you do this with the help of an assistant.

Classic floor screed

If you decide to go the traditional route - pour a concrete base for the tiles, you will need to carry out the same preparation as when working with dry technology. Check the floors and the condition of the boards, eliminate weak elements and unevenness, and fill the cracks with epoxy putty.

On a note! Large cavities can be blown out with self-expanding foam and covered with moisture-resistant acrylic sealant. Ideally, after the putty and sealant has hardened, the entire floor area should be treated with a waterproofing compound.

Preparing for pouring

Cement screed on a wooden floor requires the same preparatory measures as dry screed:

1. Spread plastic film over the entire surface (with an overlap of at least 20 cm on the walls; you can secure it with edge tape or tape), do not allow wrinkles or bubbles to appear;
2. Install beacons. To do this, place mounds of thick liquid on the film. cement mortar and attach metal perforated slats to them;
3. Level the beacons using a level (add or remove mortar from the cement slides);
4. Make reinforcement. There are two ways to do this. The simplest is to add fiberglass or steel fiber to the solution (the strength of such a layer will increase as the cement hardens). Another method involves installing a continuous reinforcing mesh, which is laid on a layer of polyethylene under the supports of the beacon battens.

Important! In some cases, the thickness of the cement-sand layer can exceed 10 cm, which means that the joists and floors will be subject to high loads. Before you build a cushion under the tiles, consider additionally strengthening the floor: residential buildings The lag laying step can reach 90 cm; it makes sense to reduce this distance to 40 cm.

Pouring and drying

The concrete base is poured onto a wooden flooring according to the following algorithm:

• mix cement mortar (M400 cement and sand in a ratio of 1:3 or 1:4), or use ready mixture(the main thing is to ensure sufficient fluidity of the composition);
• fill, evenly distributing the solution between the beacons and preventing the appearance of air voids;
• take a rule and level the surface along the beacons;
• leave the filling to dry for 48 hours;
• remove the beacon slats and fill the voids left behind with fresh solution;
• Perform final leveling of the surface using wet half-tracks.

Filling must be done in one step. If you divide this process into stages, the screed will turn out to be non-uniform, which can lead to the rapid appearance of cracks and irregularities.

Apply the solution to the surface using notched trowel, control the thickness of the layer using guides or marks on the walls.

On a note! Concrete must gain strength before final curing. Therefore, you should slow down the drying process. To do this, moisten the surface and cover it with polyethylene. The solution will gain brand strength within 3-4 weeks. During this period of time, it must be moistened at least once every two to three days.

Within a couple of weeks after pouring concrete base You can walk carefully, but it’s better not to rush when laying the tiles. Keep in mind that in the cold season the solution will dry more slowly. When it has completely hardened, cut off the film protruding along the edges and carry out the final leveling of the surface using grinder. After this, you can lay a new floor covering.

Summary

Even if you plan to use a different floor covering, it is important to screed the wooden floor under the tiles. This is material with high density, he provides strong impact on the structures below. Having dealt with tiles, you can easily cope with other materials.

Remember that the screed is designed to remove relatively minor irregularities and strengthen the surface before installing the tiles. To get rid of serious defects, you will have to replace the old boards or completely dismantle the old covering. Neither the concrete nor the dry base should move during use. For a more complete understanding of the technology of work, watch the video about arranging a screed.

Video: screeding a wooden floor

All photos from the article

The question of whether it is possible to screed a wooden floor is not even subject to discussion among specialists. This possibility almost always exists, so any of us can level the base on the boardwalk using mortar. Naturally, leveling technology has its own characteristics, so before starting work it is necessary to study all available information on this technique.

Foundation requirements

Screed on a wooden floor under tiles or other coverings is carried out when we need to obtain the most even and stable surface, practically not subject to deformation.

Actually, it is from these considerations that the basic requirements for the flooring on which we will pour the solution are formed.

• Firstly, neither wet nor dry screed on a wooden floor should move during hardening and use.. Accordingly, the plank layer must also be completely motionless, therefore, before starting work, it must be properly strengthened.

• Secondly, the thickness of the cement-sand layer in some cases (for example, when laying a warm water floor) can reach 10 - 12 cm. Accordingly, the mass of the solution will be considerable, and the load on the base will increase. It is for this reason that in some cases it is necessary to strengthen the structure of a wooden floor by laying additional logs or.

Note!
In residential premises, the pitch of laying lags is sometimes 75 - 90 cm.
For pouring screed optimal distance between the support beams is about 40 cm.

• Thirdly, even with the ideal implementation of the previous points of complete immobility wood flooring we will not be able to achieve this, which means that the cement screed on the wooden floor will experience deformation loads. To prevent it from cracking, we must place reinforcement in the thickness of the cement - either a mesh of reinforcing wire or steel/polymer fiber.

• Finally, you need to keep in mind that the price of the work and its labor intensity in this case will be quite high. It is for this reason that it is worth considering the possibility of using thin-layer self-leveling coatings based on anhydrite or laying plywood boards.
  Naturally, these are only the most General requirements, which extend to the base. We will tell you in the next section how to prepare the boardwalk for work and how to fill the solution as efficiently as possible.

Screed arrangement process

Necessary materials

Before we make a screed on a wooden floor, we need to buy everything that is needed for successful work. The task before us is not too difficult, so the shopping list will not be long.

To make it easier for us to navigate, let's put it in the form of a table:

Note!
Here we present full list materials and tools necessary for work.
Naturally, having chosen one of the technologies (for example, deciding that the floor screed will be poured onto a wooden floor using a ready-made composition), adjustments need to be made to this list.

Preparatory work

So, to the question whether it is possible to pour a screed on a wooden floor, we gave a positive answer, we also purchased everything necessary for the work; you can begin performing basic operations.

And before you pour the screed onto the wooden floor, you need to prepare it:

• We carry out an inspection of the coating, if necessary, replacing all rotten and deformed boards.

Note!
It is better to take replacement parts that are as dry as possible so that over time they do not begin to rot.

• If necessary, we eliminate the deflection of the boards by placing additional logs.
• We deepen the heads of the nails protruding above the floor plane using a hammer.
• Using a scraper or plane, we cut off large irregularities.

Wooden floors are rarely leveled with concrete. Many experienced builders believe that erecting heavy monolithic design on a wood floor makes no sense. Moreover, the concrete layer does not coexist very “friendly” with the wooden base, not only during hardening, but also during operation. In this regard, it is more advisable to use dry leveling schemes. But in cases where it is necessary, for example, to lay tiles in the washing room, you have to look for a way out.

Let’s immediately say that concrete screed on a wooden floor is a completely feasible task, but here, as in any other matter, there are specific issues.

Plank floor - photo

Wood is a special material that has not only a number of technological advantages, but also with one significant drawback. It is not static, so even after completion installation work“behaves” according to his own laws, peculiar only to him. Changes in temperature and humidity cause lumber to shrink, increase/decrease in volume, stretch or contract. By the way, it is for this reason that after the construction of the log house fine finishing is carried out somewhere in 2 years.

But even after a two-year period of shrinkage, wooden structures are still moving, albeit not as intensely. For example, a wooden floor with underfloor heating moves every time the heating system is turned on.

Video - Concrete floors in a wooden house

Unlike wood, a monolithic concrete base only slightly changes its geometric parameters when hydrated, and after complete hardening it hardly moves at all.

And if this base were tightly connected to the unstable wooden surface, then the slightest movements of the latter would lead to the formation of cracks on the surface of the concrete.

One of the reasons for the appearance of cracks is non-compliance with the concrete pouring technology. wooden base

But the alignment technology described here is intended to ensure that both elements cannot harm each other, and its (technology) distinguishing feature lies in the fact that during pouring the base is not connected to the walls.

Diagram - an example of arranging a screed on a wooden floor

Design features of plank floors

It is hardly advisable to pour a screed on a floor equipped with joists and a floor slab. Such floors often have a thickness of approximately 7-7.8 cm, and the only the right decision in this case, the only option is to dismantle all wooden elements and then pour them over the floor slab. It’s another matter if the logs are high and located on brick pillars. Such pillars have a height of over 0.3-0.4 m, so it is impossible to replace them with a concrete screed. Schemes of such floors are presented in the images below.

1 – base; 2 – waterproofing made of two layers of roofing material; 3 – bottom harness; 4 – top harness; 5 – external cladding with tongue and groove boards; b – plate made of non-ferrous metal with holes; 7- outer wall from boards; 8 – plaster; 9 – plinth; 10 – plank floor; 11 – logs; 12 – brick column; 13 – antiseptic wooden lining; 14 – underground
1 – compacted sand; 2 – concrete preparation; 3 – waterproofing from roll materials; 4 - brick pillar; 5 – wooden antiseptic lining; c – cladding made of antiseptic boards; 7 – intermediate plank flooring: 8 – thermal insulation; 9 - air gap; 10 – floor; 11 – load-bearing beam

It is precisely such structures that are often filled with screed.

Pouring technology

The essence of pouring a concrete screed on a plank floor is to create a gap between the monolithic surface and unstable wooden elements. For this purpose, the leveling layer is cut off from the walls using a damper tape, and from the plank base - with polyethylene.

This creates a floating floor without connections to any surface. As a result, all lumber elements continue to move in one direction or another, and the screed, which simply lies on top, does not become covered with cracks from permanent changes in the position of the boardwalk.

The technical parameters of the concrete screed, as well as the basic requirements, are found in SNiP 2.03.13-88 and 3.04.01-87.

SNiP 2.03.13-88. Floors. File for download

SNiP 3.04.01-87. Insulating and finishing coatings. File for download

On the feasibility of using polyethylene

Direct contact with plastic film is known to have a negative effect on wood and leads to the growth of fungus and mold.

That is why, instead of film in wooden structures, roofing felt, bitumen-based mastic, glassine or roll waterproofing with bitumen impregnation. But the cement screed does not stick to the plastic film at all, which is why:

• both plates will be able to move freely along the insulating boundary;
• the screed will not draw moisture from the wood, leading to cracks;
• When moving, the screed will not pull the film, stretch it or tear it.

Important information! Before starting work, care should be taken to minimize Negative consequences contact of lumber with polyethylene. That's all for this wooden elements need to be treated with an antiseptic and primer mixture"Aquastop", which has moisture-repellent properties.

The filling procedure itself consists of several stages, let’s get acquainted with them.

Prices for reinforced polyethylene film

reinforced polyethylene film

Stage one. Calculations

There is one standard calculation scheme: for every 15 kg/m² of dry mixture, a thickness of 1 cm is obtained. Even if the required amount of materials is known, you still need to buy them with a 10% margin.

Table. Dry cement mixtures- price

Stage two. Preparing the base

Having understood the technology and calculated the required amount of mixture, you can start working directly. Traditionally, you should start by preparing the base.

Step 1. First, the boardwalk is dismantled and a thorough inspection of all elements is carried out. Lags are checked. If any of them are unsuitable for further use, they must be replaced.

Step 2. If the logs are installed in increments of more than 40 cm, then auxiliary bars are installed between them.

Step 3. The boards, if they are still usable, are nailed back together. If slightly damaged floorboards are found, they should be turned over.

The heads of the nails are recessed by 2-3 mm, otherwise the plastic film laid on top may tear.

Step 4. Skirting boards are removed and replaced with thin boards(the latter should cover the cracks in the walls). Do not forget that these boards are installed for a certain time, and after pouring the screeds will be dismantled. This will ensure ventilation of the wooden base and prevent it from rotting.

Important information! You also need to seal all the cracks. If they are small, you can fill them with sealant, but large cracks are better sealed with foam.

Instead of sealant, you can use parquet putty made from wood dust, or a homemade putty mixture. To prepare the latter, you need to mix any sawdust with oil paint in a ratio of 4:1.

Stage three. Padding

When the sealant or putty is completely dry, thoroughly vacuum the substrate to remove dust and debris. Sanding can be done if desired, although this is not necessary.

Next, a moisture-resistant primer is applied in two or three layers: it will prevent the appearance of air bubbles and the absorption of liquid from the cement mortar by the surface. The primer will also serve as additional protection for the wood from mold and mildew.

Prices for primer for concrete floors

primer for concrete floor

Stage four. Marking

Using an ordinary or laser level, a zero level is marked along the perimeter of the walls. The latter can be at an arbitrary height, but on average it is 35-70 cm from the surface of the base. It is necessary to mark several points of the zero horizontal on each of the walls.

Equal distances are laid down from these points, and the thickness of the screed itself must be taken into account.

Important information! The standard thickness of a concrete floating floor is about 5 cm. Moreover, every centimeter of such a floor will create a load on the plank base of 100-110 kg for each square meter. It is for this reason that it is advisable to strengthen the logs, although if possible it is generally better to install metal channels instead of them.

Stage five. Waterproofing

Further actions involve insulating the wooden structural elements, and the result should be a kind of pallet that does not allow moisture to pass through.

Step 1. A damper tape with a thickness of 10-20 mm and a width slightly exceeding the thickness of the screed is attached to the walls along the entire perimeter. This tape will provide not only extinction sound vibrations, but also the possibility of lengthening/expanding the floating slab. Scotch tape is used for fastening.

Important information! At the end finishing floor, excess tape protruding on the surface will be cut off, and the resulting gap will be covered with a plinth.

Important information! There should be no folds or damage to the waterproofing layer. Subsequent steps must be performed with extreme caution so as not to tear or puncture the film. If this cannot be avoided, the holes must be immediately covered with polyethylene patches.

Step 3. Ideally, the waterproofing layer should have no joints at all. If there are joints, then they are all firmly taped with tape. The further operation of the leveling layer will largely depend on the tightness of the waterproofing.

Prices for edge tape

edge tape

Stage six. Reinforcement

If the concrete layer is thick enough, it must be reinforced. There are several methods of reinforcement; only the most common ones are discussed below.

Method No. 1. Reinforcing mesh

A very common option, which, however, is not particularly suitable in this case. The fact is that the previous layer is polyethylene, which can be damaged by the mesh. It will be quite difficult to move around the fittings without compromising the integrity of the insulation. In addition, the film, as noted above, must be in direct contact with the concrete, so the mesh must be located in the body of the screed.

For this reason, concrete is poured in two layers:

• the first layer is poured - without beacons;
• the grid is laid, beacons are installed;
• the second layer is poured.

It would seem nothing complicated, but the concrete layer will take a long time to dry - the break between layers can be up to 1 month. Therefore, it is better to resort to the second method.

Method No. 2. Fiber fiber

The next reinforcement method involves adding fiberglass directly to the concrete mixture during the preparation stage. The polymer fibers that make up this material are arranged randomly, resulting in maximum bond strength in all directions.

Moreover, total weight screeds will be noticeably reduced due to the abandonment of metal mesh. Further actions are focused on using this particular method.

Fiber fiber prices

fiber fiber

Stage seven. Installation of leveling

Lighthouses need to be built especially carefully; there can be no talk of any screws or nails. The foundations for future “beds” are made from the same mortar that will be used for the screed. “Beds” are formed along the entire length of each of the lighthouses.

Important information! The distance between the “beds” must be 10-15 cm shorter than the length of the rule (often about 120 cm). The distance between the wall surfaces and the outer “beds” should be 25-30 cm.

The metal profile is laid on the tops of the “beds” and heated in the solution so that the previously noted height (level of the leveling layer) is reached. The installation of beacons must be completed a maximum of an hour after mixing the solution, otherwise it will set.

Stage eight. Mixing the solution

The mixture for concrete screed can be purchased already in finished form or do it yourself. Factory-made dry mixes are sold in bags of 25 kg and 50 kg and diluted with water (6.5 liters per bag or 13 liters, respectively). If necessary, the amount of water can be increased, but not more than 0.5 liters.

All components are mixed with an electric drill with a mixer attachment; the finished mixture should be used for a maximum of 15 minutes.

To prepare the solution yourself, you need to mix cement (at least “four hundredth”) and sifted sand (preferably river sand) in a ratio of 1:3. An electric drill is also used for kneading, but the whole procedure is performed in 2 stages. The prepared solution should be used no later than 1.5 hours after mixing.

Important information! The strength and water resistance of the solution can be increased by adding special plasticizers (the proportions are indicated on the packaging). Although there is a cheaper alternative to plasticizer - regular washing powder(a handful for every 100 liters of water).

Prices for cement-sand mixture

cement-sand mixture

Stage nine. Fill

The filling procedure is carried out traditionally, i.e. continuously. You should start from the farthest corner relative to front door. The surface is leveled using a rule.

24 hours after pouring the screed, the beacons are removed, and the remaining voids are treated with a primer, filled with the same solution and leveled using a trowel.

Video - Screed on a wooden floor

Further care of the screed

The care requirements are the same for both ready-made dry screed and homemade cement-sand mortar. The next day after pouring, the screed is moistened, and the procedure is repeated daily for one week. For the first four days, the concrete should be covered with plastic film so that moisture evaporates evenly from the screed.

This completes the procedure for pouring screed onto a wooden floor.

Many of us know that a dry screed can be laid on a wooden floor. Sometimes even experienced builders I don’t recommend doing it on a wooden base wet screed from cement-sand mortar or concrete. But residents of apartments and houses with joist floors should not refuse tiles on the floor or underfloor heating systems. There are special technologies that allow you to install a wet screed on a wooden base.

Features of a wooden base

Despite the abundance of advantages, wood has one significant drawback - it continues to live its own life even after being used in a certain design. As a result, wooden elements are susceptible to all sorts of changes under the influence of moisture and temperature changes. They may shrink, swell, or bend.

Important: precisely because wood is not static, installing a concrete screed on a freshly laid wooden floor is strictly prohibited.

Even after several years, wood flooring elements continue to shift, warp, and shrink. Hidden floor heating systems made of wood cause characteristic structural changes with each temperature change.

Concrete screed behaves completely differently. It is prone to deformation and shrinkage only during the period of hardening of the mixture. In the future, no special changes occur with the leveling layer. Rigid coupling of moving living wood to a stable screed would lead to cracking and damage to the latter. That is why the technology of unbound screed was invented, allowing each layer to “live according to its own laws.”

Nuances of the screed device

The essence of the method is that to install a screed on a wooden floor, it is necessary to insulate each layer. For this purpose, the concrete screed is separated:

• from the walls of the room using a damper tape;
• from the wooden base using insulating material.

As insulation you can use polyethylene film, glassine, roofing felt, bitumen mastic or modern rolled materials. However, preference is given to polyethylene film. Despite the fact that it creates a greenhouse effect for a wooden base, the film has a number of beneficial advantages for a concrete screed:

• the smooth surface does not cause adhesion of the insulating layer to the concrete;
• concrete that is not bonded to the film will not pull it along with it and tear it during shrinkage or deformation;
• the integrity of the insulating layer will not give wooden base the ability to extract moisture from hardening concrete;
• the entire film will prevent the subsequently hardened screed from absorbing moisture from the wood, which can lead to cracks in the concrete floor.

Important: in order to negate the negative greenhouse effect of plastic film on wood, all wooden elements of the base must be treated with an antiseptic and a water-repellent primer.

Technology

If you decide to make a floor screed using joists with your own hands, then you should thoroughly understand the process of its construction, which consists of several stages. More visual material on installation in the video offered at the end of the article.

Preparatory stage

At this stage we need to do the following:

1. All boards must be removed and inspected. Rotten, damaged or cracked elements should be replaced.
2. We also inspect the logs. We replace unreliable beams with new ones.

Tip: pay attention to the lag step. If it is more than 40 cm, then it is better to install additional beams to increase bearing capacity floor.

1. Reinstall the floorboards. Boards with an uneven, damaged surface can be turned upside down.
2. We carefully seal all the cracks between the boards with sealant.
3. After the curing period indicated on the package with the sealant has expired, you can begin treating the floor with a moisture-resistant primer. Allow time for the primer to harden.
4. Using a laser device, we mark the level of the clean floor on the walls of the room.

Attention: when determining the height of the screed, keep in mind that every centimeter of the thickness of the concrete layer puts pressure on the wooden floor weighing 100-120 kg. Therefore, if it is necessary to perform a high screed, it is worth additionally strengthening the logs or replacing them metal beams, for example, from a channel.

Laying insulation

At this stage, you need to make something, like a trough, from waterproof insulating material for pouring concrete. To do this we do the following:

1. First of all, we attach a damper tape along the perimeter of the room to the bottom of the walls. You can use a special strip, a regular board or a strip of polystyrene foam. The tape can be attached with double-sided tape or with a stapler. Optimal thickness the stripes are 1-2 cm, and its height should be a couple of centimeters higher than the height of the screed. This element is needed not only for the deformation movements of the screed, but also as a soundproofing barrier. After laying the face layer, the protruding parts of the tape can be trimmed.
2. Now it’s time to lay down the plastic film. Adjacent strips of film should overlap each other by 10 cm. The joints of the film are sealed with tape. Also, the insulating layer must be wrapped on the walls of the room to a height of 15-20 cm. As a result, you will get a waterproof trough made of insulating material onto which you can safely pour the screed.

Attention: Under no circumstances should there be any holes, cuts or punctures on the insulating material. If they appear during the work, they should be immediately sealed with polyethylene patches.

Installation of beacons

It is strictly forbidden to attach guide beacons to the floor with screws or nails. It is best to lay them on flat cakes or beds of mortar. The outer beacons are installed at a distance of 20 cm from the walls (see video). And the step of the guides relative to each other is 1-1.2 m, but not more than the length of the rule.

It is better to use guide profiles for drywall as beacons. Installing beacons along the mortar beds will make it easier to level them to the level of the finished floor. The beacon can be sunk deeper into the solution or raised higher by adding more mixture, thereby achieving the desired mark (see video).

Advice: if you do everything yourself, then keep in mind that after preparing the solution, it is better to lay the beacons within an hour.

Screed reinforcement

The installation of a floating screed on a wooden floor along joists requires additional reinforcement, especially if the layer height is more than 5 cm. Typically, screed reinforcement is done using a metal mesh made of wire or reinforcement. But in the case of floors with joists, it is better to use more lightweight material, which will not additionally load the screed. Besides metal grid can easily tear the insulating layer during pouring. That is why fiber is the ideal reinforcement for a wooden base.

Fiber is added to the solution during the mixing process. This method of reinforcement is suitable for doing it yourself. Fiber fibers randomly located in the screed provide the strength of the layer in different directions.

Pouring concrete mixture

Regardless of how the mixture is poured, with your own hands or with the help of hired workers, leveling is done in one of two ways:

• If laying will be carried out over a large area, then it should be divided into separate sections (maps) using formwork and the mixture should be poured according to the maps. In this case, it is allowed to take breaks in work when pouring individual areas.
• If the room is small, then the filling can be done at one time, starting from the corner of the room farthest from the entrance. In this case, it is not allowed to take breaks from work, so it is better to do the pouring yourself with an assistant. While one is pouring and leveling the mixture, the other is preparing a new portion.

We lay the solution as follows:

1. We spread a portion of the mixture between the beacons just above their level and level it using the rule. To do this, place the tool on the guides and pull it towards you from side to side, leveling the mixture.
2. A day after laying the mixture, the beacons can be removed from the solution, and the recesses from them are treated with a primer and filled with fresh solution. Level the top with a trowel.
3. The surface of the screed must be sprayed with water for the first seven days and covered for the first four days. plastic film for uniform evaporation of moisture. Equally important is constant humidity and temperature in the room.

Screed on a wooden floor is not the best solution for installing a new floor. However, despite this opinion, if all technologies are followed, it is actually feasible. In addition, there are wooden floor structures that, being in good condition, are easier to fill with self-leveling flooring than to redo the entire floor structure.

This article will be useful for those who are building their own Vacation home. Having made a self-leveling floor over a wooden one, it is easy to lay tiles in the bathroom or kitchen at home.

Also for owners country houses information about septic tanks from concrete rings. You can get information about septic tanks and place an order.

Wooden floor structures

Before you start talking about screeding a wooden floor, you need to understand the designs of wooden and plank floors.

It hardly makes sense to screed a wooden floor that is laid on joists and a 220 mm thick floor slab. The thickness of such a wooden floor is 70-77 mm and the best solution for such a floor would be to remove the wooden floor along with the joists and make a screed along concrete slab ceilings

Screeding a wooden floor makes sense if the floor joists are on high brick pillars. The height of such pillars can reach 30-40 cm (or more) and it is not possible to replace them with a screed. You can see two photos of schemes for such floors below.

It is precisely floors of this design that can be discussed as a possible basis for a screed.

Features of screed on wooden floors

Before deciding to screed a wooden floor, pay attention to the following:

A screed on a wooden floor is a non-bonded screed, that is, the layer of such a screed will not be connected to bottom layer base and will be an isolated, unconnected layer of the floor. This leads to some features of screeds on wooden floors.

Firstly, the wooden base for the screed must be very strong and completely motionless. Depreciation, which is so characteristic of a wooden floor, should be completely eliminated. If the wooden floor possibly vibrates, the screed above it will crack, which is unacceptable.

Secondly, depending on the selected material for the screed, the thickness of the screed can be quite thick. For example, using for screed cement-sand mixture, the thickness of the screed should be from 10-12 cm. The weight of such a screed will significantly increase the load on the wooden floor. If we take into account that the wooden floor is laid on joists, and there is a step between the joists (the distance between the joists), then as the load on the wooden floor increases, the distance between the joists must be reduced. IN large rooms the distance between the logs can reach 85 cm. Therefore, if you decide to make a cement-sand screed in a large room, you will have to dismantle the floor, reduce the step between the logs, install new logs and restore the wooden floor again.

It’s a lot of work, and perhaps you should think a hundred times before making a cement-sand screed on a wooden floor in a large room.

In order not to disassemble the floor and not reduce the distance between the joists, use not a cement-sand mixture, but, for example, anhydrite floor levelers. The thickness of such a screed is from 30 mm, the leveler does not require reinforcement and can be used for unbound screeds.

Third, A cement-sand screed on a wooden floor is made, always with a reinforcing mesh. This is done, again, to increase the strength of the screed. Moreover, fiberglass in the screed will not save you from using reinforcing mesh. That is, for a semi-dry screed, you will also have to make a reinforcing mesh with cells of 100×100 mm.

Conclusion. The use of cement-sand screed for large rooms with wooden floors is not justified by labor-intensive work. However. If the circumstances and conditions are such that it is impossible to avoid screeding a wooden floor, then to install the screed it is better to use a leveler suitable for independent screeding rather than using a cement-sand mixture. And in general, I would not consider a cement-sand screed as a priority for screeding on a wooden floor, although the use of a high-quality leveler will significantly increase the cost of the screed material.

Material for screeding on wooden floors

To make a screed on a wooden floor you will need the following material:

• Polyethylene film with a thickness of 200 microns, for waterproofing the screed layer from wood and walls;
• Mixture for screed. Read about choosing a mixture a little higher. If you choose a cement-sand mixture, then prepare a reinforcing mesh, preferably with a stainless steel coating. The mesh should not be in rolls. Why not in rolls?

You have to fix the reinforcing mesh on a wooden base, but you must not disturb the waterproofing, that is, do not tear the film. Think about how you will attach the mesh. At the same time, think about how you will attach the beacons for the DSP screed, because there is nothing to attach the beacons to, the base for attaching the beacons is polyethylene.

Why am I making these notes? In my opinion, the device cement-sand screed It is better not to do it on a wooden base in large rooms. The amount of work and problems will completely overshadow the result. Replace DSP with “Rovnitel” for isolated bases (unbound screed). For example, an anhydrite floor leveler.

Wood screed technology

The wooden floor must be strong, immovable, dry and not rotten. The same applies not only to the floor boards, but also to the joists and pillars on which it is laid. Rotten boards need to be replaced.

Important! Do not screed on a newly laid wooden floor; it may become deformed. The age of the wooden floor for screed must be more than one year when the floor is used in the range of home temperatures. Although I can’t imagine who needs to screed a new wooden floor.

The heads of the nails with which the boards are nailed need to be recessed a few millimeters so that they do not tear the layer of waterproofing film that needs to be laid on top of the boards.

If your apartment is on the ground floor and there is a basement or ground below you, then the seams between the boards need to be filled with epoxy putty. Epoxy putty is chosen because it does not allow moisture to pass through. The seams are sealed so that evaporation does not form between the film laid under the screed and the boards.

If the joints between the wall and the floor are wide, then seal them construction foam, and on top with epoxy putty and liquid waterproofing.

After the putty has dried, polyethylene 200 microns thick is spread on the wooden base. Polyethylene is spread with an overlap of 10-15 cm on the walls. Two adjacent pieces of polyethylene are laid with an overlap of 20-25 cm. Seal the joint between the pieces of polyethylene with non-wetting mounting tape. Tape the overlaps to the wall with tape.

The polyethylene should lie flat, without folds. Under the polyethylene there should be a clean wooden base free of debris.

Preparation of the solution

Let me remind you that we make a screed from a mixture of leveling agent. We make the screed solution according to the instructions on the package. The leveler mixture is added to the water, not the other way around. Stir the mixture until it becomes thick sour cream. mechanically, mixer at low speed.

How to check the thickness of the mixture

To check that the consistency of the mixture is correct, find a container with a diameter of 70 mm so that it can hold 1 liter of solution. From this cylinder, pour 1 liter of solution onto a 50x50 cm plexiglass plate. The diameter of the spread solution should be 34-38 cm. This means that the density of the solution is correct. The density of the solution must be checked constantly.

Set the screed level

The unbound screed with leveler must be more than 30 mm. For a wooden floor, choose 50 – 60 mm. It is better to measure the level of the screed laser level. If the room is very small, it is enough building level. Using the laser level, draw a screed line along the wall and place benchmark beacons (levels on legs) along the floor surface.

Filling the screed

The finished leveling mixture is poured continuously over the entire surface of the floor from the far corner to the exit. Helpers will be needed for successful pouring. One dilutes the mixture, the second continuously pours the solution, the third levels the solution according to the level of the beacons and marks, a special metal rod oscillatory movements (raising and lowering the bar) along and across the cast surface.

Caring for a poured screed

In a room with a poured screed there should be no drafts and low temperatures. If you did use a solution from CPS, then cover the screed with polyethylene. Anhydrite self-leveling floor must be protected from excessive insolation (direct rays of the sun) for 2 days, too high temperature, drafts and water. After two days the room needs to be ventilated.

Some conclusions of the article

• Before screeding, evaluate the structure of your wooden floor;
• Cement-sand screed is very heavy and will put a lot of stress on the wooden floor, so you may have to reinforce the wooden floor;
• If possible, replace the DSP with a high-quality leveler for an independent screed;
• DSP screed on a wooden floor is cost-effective only for small rooms, kitchens, and bathrooms;
• Think a hundred times before using a screed on a wooden floor in houses with wooden floors, remember the load.

• And one last thing. If you plan to use tiles as finishing, replace the screed on the wooden floor, if possible in level, by laying cement bonded bonded boards (CSP).