Building fences with your own hands from wood. Do-it-yourself wooden fence on metal posts: design features. Beautiful wooden fences

Any owner suburban area Quite rightly, he is trying to fence off his possessions in some way. Thus, the construction of a fence is always included in the list of priority tasks, and it is often started to be installed even before the construction of the main house begins. There are a great many design options for such fencing. But despite the very wide range of materials offered for sale, both general construction and specifically designed for the construction of fences, wooden fences remain one of the most popular.

Wooden fences have been used for centuries and have proven their practicality. Is it true, vulnerable spot there were and remain fence supports - wood from constant contact with the ground quickly succumbs to biological decomposition, and the life of wooden posts, alas, is short-lived. But nothing in our time prevents us from finding a more thorough solution. So, for example, a wooden fence will last much longer metal poles. It is these types of fences that will be discussed in this publication.

A house or plot without a fence is like a general without an army: it looks completely undignified. In addition, the fence serves as protection from stray animals and partly from unwanted guests of the human race. Today there are many materials for creating a fencing structure - brick, concrete and metal products, mesh, but wood is still in great demand. Previously, supports made of the same material were used for wooden fences; today, a wooden fence is installed on metal poles.

Features of wooden fences

Wood is always in demand because it has a lot of undeniable advantages:

Naturalness.
Decorative.
Aesthetics.
Unique color and texture.
Low cost compared to fencing made from other materials.
Excellent compatibility with architectural style any building.
Ease of construction.
Variety of options.

This list can be continued for a very long time. Of course, like any other material, wood also has disadvantages, namely its relative fragility. But this problem is currently being solved. There are many protective and antiseptic agents for wood products, the use of which will significantly extend the life of the fence.

Properties of metal products

The advantages of metal support products include:

Simplicity of installation work.
Reliability and durability of the design.
Strength.
Resistance against static and dynamic loads.
Possibility to use any fixation method.

The disadvantages of metal piles include the following: if a fence is used, the price will increase significantly, but if you consider that the use of metal supports will significantly extend the life of the fence, then such a disadvantage is not such.

Types of pipe sections

Metal poles are available in different sections:

Square. Such products are easy to install in sections and are characterized by reliable connections. Parameters: height - 2.5-4.0 m, side dimensions - 6-10 cm, wall thickness - 0.2-0.4 cm.
Round. If a metal pipe is used with a round cross-section, the price of the supports will be slightly lower, since they are cheaper than analogues of other types. Also, the use of products with a round cross-section provides the opportunity to select products required thickness and diameter. Parameters: wall thickness - 2.5-3.5 mm, diameter - 5.7-10.8 cm, height - from 2.5 to 4.0 m.
Rectangular. The only difference between these products and the square section is their shape, so all the characteristics are similar.

Material protection

In order for it to last for decades, it is necessary to protect not only the base material, but also the metal fencing elements. To do this, you need to cover the pillars with special paint. This will protect the metal from corrosion and mechanical damage. To prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the pipes, metal caps can be placed on the upper end.

The use of anti-corrosion technologies will help preserve the original quality of the material and its original appearance for a long time.

Site marking

Before you begin making the fence, you need to make markings. To do this, first, where you plan to make a wooden fence on metal posts, you need to remove bushes, trees, and other objects that may interfere. If necessary, you need to level the soil surface. Only now the markings are being made. You need to do the following:

Drive the pegs into extreme points future fencing.
Stretch a string between them.
Mark the places where fence supports will be installed. In this case, it is necessary to ensure that they are located strictly on the same line and at a distance of no more than 2.5-3 m. Otherwise, over time, the fence will begin to sag and lose its proper appearance.

Features of fastening support products in the soil

There are several ways to fix metal pipes in the soil, which allows you to choose the most suitable option.

If you are building a wooden fence on metal posts with your own hands, the cheapest option is to drive the pipes into the ground. To do this, a guide is installed inside these elements. To do the job, two people are needed: one hammers, and the other scrupulously controls the verticality of the support. Alternatively, you can not hammer the pipes, but dig them in, having previously prepared a well with a drill, then install the pipe and compact the earth well.

The following installation options are more labor-intensive, but also more reliable:

Concreting
Mounting on a concrete plinth.
Usage screw piles. For complex ones too great option solutions to many installation problems.

Installation of supports

What’s noteworthy is that the rules listed below are suitable for installing supports made of different materials:

It is necessary to deepen the supports by at least 1/4 of the entire product. This will ensure their reliable fixation in the soil. After this, so that the pillars do not become loose over time, you can first fill around them using crushed stone or brick chips, and then concrete them. Further work can be continued only after the concrete has hardened.
They begin work by installing the outermost corner piles, carefully aligning them in height. Subsequent pillars are installed at the same level as the previous one. To avoid any undesirable changes, you can, to maintain the height indicator, dig in slats instead of the outer pillars, stretch string between them and then install the remaining supports, focusing on the desired height mark.

How the posts should be installed - above the future fence, below or level - depends on the choice of the owner himself. But according to the recommendations of experts, a wooden fence on metal posts should be installed so that the supports rise several centimeters above the picket fence.
To prevent the wind from twisting the fence on rocky, sandy and non-heaving soils, it is necessary to bury the supports no less than half the height of the fence.
Widening the bottom end of the post will increase its strength and durability. A welded cross will serve as such an extension.
After all the pillars have been installed, you can concrete mortar Make small cones at their base to drain water.

Installation of a picket fence

When all the supports are installed, you can weld fasteners to them, on which the transverse bars - purlins - will then be fixed. Alternatively, you can weld the fastening first and only then install the posts. But then you also need to make sure that all the fasteners are on the same level and create a single line; this is the only way to attach the purlins without any problems.

Depending on what material the cross beams are made of - wood or a metal profile - the choice of fasteners also depends. If a wooden fence is fastened to metal posts using a metal profile, then it itself can be welded to the fastening, and wood products are fixed using bolts or self-tapping screws. If the cross beams are made of wood, then they are fixed to the fastening with bolts, but the picket fence is fastened with ordinary nails. The main thing is to ensure that there are no distortions or other violations. This can be done using a level, and the height can be checked using the same stretched string.

The picket fence can be mounted either tightly or with a small (or large) gap according to the chosen design. How to decorate the top of the fence? It can be anything - horizontal, at an angle, wavy. In this case, the second and third options are preferable, since due to the convex surface of the picket fence, moisture will not accumulate on its surface, as a result, the fence will serve for a much longer period of time.

All that remains is to make and install the wicket and gate. They can be made of wood, corrugated sheets, pipes, forging, since a wooden fence on metal posts goes well with any of them. The cost of the entire structure will depend on the choice of not only the material of the gate and wicket, but also all elements of the structure.

The content of the article:

Wooden fence- This perfect solution for a suburban area. Any owner, relying on his own imagination, can make a completely exclusive fence thanks to the properties of wood and the many options for using it for this purpose. You will learn how to make a wooden fence without resorting to high costs from our article.

Types and features of wooden fences

Depending on the height, fences are divided into three categories: low, up to 0.8 m high; medium - up to 1.5 m; high - more than 1.5 m.

Based on their appearance, wooden fences can be divided into several types:

Fence. It is a canvas made up of slats nailed to horizontal purlins and secured between support posts. Such a fence is often used for decorative purposes, as well as to fence off a site from the street and neighbors.
. It consists of treated boards nailed together tightly, overlapping or with gaps to purlins located horizontally between the supports. Among wooden fences, plank fences are considered the most reliable.
Palisade. This is a fence consisting of a series of logs dug vertically into the ground. The logs can be located close to each other or with gaps. To strengthen such a fence with its inside logs are connected using nails cross bars. Consumption wood material when constructing a log fence garden plot is often unjustified.
Wattle. For a dacha, such a fence is beautiful and a good decision. It is made of small height, using willow or birch branches to weave the fabric.

What type of wooden fence to choose depends on the preferences of the site owner. But usually high structures separate the perimeter of the entire site, low fences divide the courtyard into zones, and fences medium height erected on the border with friendly neighbors or with the intention of keeping pets.

Regardless of the type, the design of any wooden fence consists of three main elements: support posts, transverse purlins and material for filling its sections - boards, rods, slabs, etc.

Advantages and disadvantages of a wooden fence

The main advantages of wooden fencing are the low weight of the wood, which makes it easier to transport, and its affordable cost. The simple design of such fences allows you to build them yourself.

Wooden fencing blends perfectly with the green landscape of the site, stone house or a log house. If you show a little imagination, you can make your wooden fence absolutely unique.

The disadvantage of constructing wooden fences is their short service life. Wood is susceptible to rotting and damage by wood insects. Not in the best possible way it is affected by fire and precipitation.

But it is not difficult to deal with such problems today. There are many different protective compounds such as antiseptics, stains and fire retardants. Lumber or logs treated with them last much longer.

Wooden fence installation technology

Even the most ordinary wooden fences can be made beautiful with proper installation and finishing. Installing a wooden fence consists of three steps: installing the support posts, attaching the transverse purlins and nailing the picket fence. Instead of picket fences and purlins, such fences can use a slab, a palisade made of logs or wickerwork. Let's consider the basic principle of installing a wooden fence.

Preparatory work

They include the choice of fencing design, design, preparation of materials, tools and marking of the fence perimeter on the ground.

You need to start work by determining the type of fence you are planning. The easiest way is to build a picket fence. If such a fence is decorative, it can be assembled from thin strips with a diagonal arrangement. Many owners like a solid fence made of slabs that imitate a palisade.

The top of the fence sections can also be done in different ways. It can be curly, convex or concave. In any case, before starting work you need to clearly understand appearance And design features planned fencing. Several options for its sections can be drawn on paper and at the same time decide on the need for a plinth underneath them. Such a fence will be combined, that is, consisting of wood and stone, but in appearance no worse than a regular one.

In order to calculate required quantity materials for external fencing, it is necessary to draw a plan to scale land plot. Knowing the dimensions of the sides of its perimeter, it is easy to calculate the length of the future fence. At its corners and entrance group it is necessary to plan the installation of support pillars, and every 2 m - intermediate posts, which will provide the fence structure with the required rigidity. Having all this data and determining the height of the fence, you can calculate the amount of material.

After completing the calculations on paper, you need to prepare the tools necessary for the work and begin marking the fence on the ground. The set of tools should include: pegs, nylon cord, tape measure and hydraulic level, shovel, axe, hacksaw, garden auger, hammer and nails. To install fence posts and install waterproofing, in addition to basic materials, you will need roofing felt, bitumen mastic, M400 concrete, crushed stone and river sand.

Marking the fence on the ground should begin with determining the installation points corner pillars. These places must be marked with pegs driven into the ground. After this, you need to stretch and secure the nylon cord between them, and then mark the locations of the intermediate posts with pegs. Thanks to the cord, they will all be on the same line along the perimeter of the site, and after installation the wooden fence will be smooth.

When the marking is completed, it is necessary to prepare for installation support pillars fence At the request of the owner of the site, they can be made of rolled metal, timber or logs. When choosing the first option, plugs cut from metal sheet. This will prevent moisture from precipitation from getting inside the racks and causing them to oxidize. The underground part of the supports should be covered bitumen mastic, and the rest should be primed and painted with anti-corrosion enamel.

If you choose the option of wooden posts, it is recommended to first sharpen their tops. This will prevent rainwater from penetrating into the rack through its end. The moisture will simply roll down the support without penetrating its body. As for the thickness of the logs or beams for supports, you should choose something in between. Fence supports that are too thick will look ridiculous, and posts that are too thin will not have sufficient strength. Before installation, it is advisable to burn the pillars over a fire, and then bottom part, which will be underground, must be covered with bitumen and wrapped in two layers of roofing material.

In the places marked with pegs, holes should be dug for supports. Their depth is directly related to the height of the planned fence. If the height of the above-ground part of the support is less than a meter, the hole can be made 0.8 m deep. Further, accordingly: for a support up to 1.5 m - 1 m, over 1.5 m - the depth of the hole is 1/2 of the column. The width of the hole should be such that between its edge and installed pole a distance of at least 0.2 m was maintained.

If the posts are metal, it is convenient to make holes for them using a garden drill. If you stick electrical tape on it, it will be possible to high accuracy control the depth of the recesses while working with this tool.

Installation of wooden fence supports

Before installing the support pillars, the bottom of the prepared holes must be covered with medium-fraction crushed stone. In this case, when the ground freezes in winter, the fence posts will be able to maintain their original position. It is recommended to cover the walls of the dug holes all around with roofing material, constructing a kind of formwork from it.

Installation of fence supports in holes should be done using a plumb line. After installation in a strictly vertical position, the racks must be temporarily secured with stops. If the height of the supports is less than one and a half meters, it is enough to fill the cavity of the holes with broken bricks, crushed stone and compact everything. If the height of the fence is over one and a half meters, the hole with installed supports should be filled with M400 concrete. In order to reduce its consumption, 2/3 of each hole can be filled with stones or broken bricks.

If you plan to install combined fence with a plinth, the installation of its supports should be done differently. Instead of holes along the marking lines, you need to dig a meter-deep trench. Its bottom must be covered with crushed stone, its walls must be covered waterproofing film, and install outside wooden formwork, which should form a base and therefore rise 0.5 m above the top of the trench.

After this, support pillars and reinforcement cages can be installed in the trench. The bottom of the supports, which will be in concrete, must be treated with bitumen. Their installation should be carried out using a plumb line and a building level. The vertical position of the racks must be fixed with stops made of bars.

When everything is ready, the formwork along with the trench must be filled with M400 concrete. If you prepare the mixture yourself, you will need a concrete mixer, as well as cement, sand and crushed stone in a ratio of 1:2:3.

After pouring, you need to wait until the concrete hardens. If the supports were installed in holes, this period will be a little more than a week. Hardening of the base will take almost a month. After the concrete has gained the required strength, you can line the racks with brick or stone.

Fastening purlins and other elements of a wooden fence

These fence parts are bars or slats with a small cross section, connecting the pillars and forming the frame of the span between them. When erecting a wooden fence, each purlin must be attached to the center of the support, and when installing the next span, the new purlin should be joined to an already fixed beam. The purlins can be nailed on top of the wooden support, or you can cut out a seat in it for a more durable fastening.

To make the fence structure strong, the transverse purlins can be nailed, placing them in a checkerboard pattern and excluding their joining on one support. The thickness of the purlin bars should be selected depending on the thickness and weight of the lumber. The more massive it is, the stronger the purlins should be.

Their location should be parallel to each other and perpendicular to the supports. Otherwise, the appearance of the fence may be spoiled. This will be especially noticeable when installing a picket fence with gaps. The installation of purlins should be constantly monitored using a tape measure and a building level.

If a horizontal arrangement of boards is planned in a wooden fence, then the purlins must be connected with vertical guides that will carry the load from the spans. Attach purlins to wooden supports It is recommended to use galvanized self-tapping screws. If nails are used, they should be driven into the wood not vertically, but slightly at an angle.

To install the picket fence in a vertical position, it is recommended to make a template that will facilitate the work of evenly fastening the boards. The template is a strip with a width corresponding to the distance between the picket strips. If you make it T-shaped, you can additionally control the height of the picket fence.

If the picket fence will be located diagonally in a wooden fence, you need to make a frame from planks in accordance with the size of the span. The frame should be secured to supports, and then a picket fence should be nailed to it.

When making wattle fence, the support posts have a small cross-section and are mounted in relation to each other at short distances of 40-60 cm. Before installing such a fence, the vine from which it is to be woven should be soaked in water for a couple of days. After this it will be easier to work with this material. A wattle fence with horizontal or vertical branches of the vine is very beautiful and resembles a traditional village fence.

A picket fence can be fake or real. In the first case, it is a slab nailed to the purlins. Its boards must be placed closely. Much less often the palisade is real. To make it, pointed logs need to be dug into the ground. This type of fence is strong, but requires a lot of logs.

Caring for a wooden fence

Due to the fact that wood can gradually rot from constant exposure to moisture, a wooden fence requires periodic maintenance. It consists of treating boards and supports with antiseptic compounds and painting all wooden parts of the structure with waterproof enamels.

It is recommended to carry out such work every year, preferably in the spring. Before the next painting, old peeling enamel must be removed from the fence with a brush with metal bristles. If it is white, it will have to be painted up to three times a year. Only in this case will such a fence always look fresh.

How to make a wooden fence - watch the video:

Building a wooden fence with your own hands is absolutely not difficult. However, after its completion, such a design requires constant attention. Without it, it will become vulnerable, but with good maintenance it will delight everyone with its appearance and protection from many misfortunes for a long time.

Construction beautiful fencing- the logical conclusion of home ownership registration, protection from the indiscreet glances of others and decoration of the site. The decision to make a wooden fence with your own hands, despite its cheapness, requires preparation and accurate calculations.

Wooden fence: advantages and disadvantages

Wood is one of the most attractive materials for making a fence, however, it is capricious in operation, and the durability of a fence made of this material largely depends on the choice of type of wood.

To make the simplest picket fence, coniferous wood is usually chosen, which is cheap and less susceptible to rotting. Of course, no one will forbid making a fence from oak or beech, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny.

Advantages of wood:

Environmental friendliness;
Availability of material;
Low cost;
Ease of processing and installation;
Highly decorative.

Disadvantages of the material:

Fragility (of some breeds);
Tendency to cracking;
Rotting in conditions of high humidity;
Fire hazard;
Pest infestation.

Since some of the shortcomings can be eliminated various impregnations, wood is most often chosen for fencing.

Types of wooden fences

For thousands of years, wood was the only building material, our ancestors have accumulated vast experience in using wood in for different purposes, including for fences.

The figure shows the most common designs of picket fences, but this is the most simple design made of boards - a picket, in addition to it made of wood:

wattle fence;
plank;
pole;
palisade;
panel;
ranch.

With a little imagination, any of these fences can be made business card plot, and, explaining the way to guests, the neighbors will say: this is where the fence is beautiful (unusual, stunning, unique)!

Examples of options in the photo

A low fence opens up the children's playground on the property to the neighbors' view A fence made of boards arranged in a checkerboard pattern blocks the view of the site A weave of boards placed at an angle can serve as a support climbing plants Walking past such a fence, you can’t help but smile The picket pattern is made in such a way that short dies create a high fence A picket fence, supplemented with end cuts of wood, becomes a solid fence Mirror film glued to pickets turns an ordinary fence into an art object There is no place for pests in a garden with such fences

Preparing for construction

Even something as seemingly simple as fencing a site with your own hands requires:

preliminary familiarization with regulatory documentation;
project development;
determining the need for materials;
budgeting.

Current standards

Standards for the construction of fences for dacha plots are prescribed in SP 53.13330.2011 “SNiP” 30–02–97* “Planning and development of territories of gardening (dacha) citizen associations. Buildings and constructions":

Fences between areas should have a height of no more than 1.5 m, mesh or lattice;
By decision general meeting members of the partnership, the fencing of the site on the side of the street or driveway can be solid, but not higher than 2.2 meters;
The distance between the fence supports is 2–3 meters;
Each rack requires a point foundation with a depth of 0.8 to 0.9 meters;
Recommended racks - made of metal rectangular pipes cross section 4x6 centimeters.

In addition to the general requirements for the state, local authorities may introduce their own standards, so before starting design it is advisable to consult the regional service in charge of the general plan.

Design

Having decided on the requirements, you can begin designing. The basis for the project will be a cadastral plan of the site indicating the boundaries. According to the plan, calculate the total length of the perimeter and the size of each side separately. These dimensions will allow you to calculate the number of fence sections and the size of additional sections. A scale diagram of the site indicating all dimensions is drawn on a separate sheet of paper. Don't forget about the entry gate and the entrance gate.

When constructing a wooden fence, experts recommend making the distance between the supports no more than 2.5 meters, since as the span increases, the deflection of the horizontal crossbars increases, which can cause deformation of the structure.

On the drawing of an ordinary section of the fence we put all the dimensions, including the underground part of the pillar

A drawing is also being developed for an ordinary section with a height of one and a half meters.

Having decided on the type of fence, draw a separate typical section of the fence to scale, including the foundation for the support, with all dimensions.

The bottom line of the fence should be raised 10–15 cm above ground level, the posts should exceed the fence by 10 cm or more.

For corner supports, gate posts and wickets we accept pipes with a cross-section of 60x60 mm, intermediate pipes of 40x60 mm. If the soil is in an area of neutral acidity, and the level groundwater below one and a half meters, the racks can be installed using partial concreting or backfilling. In this case, the racks are buried into the soil to a depth of 0.8–1.2 meters, but not less than a quarter of their total height.

Material selection

From the huge number of types of wood for fences, it is best to choose coniferous species:

they grow everywhere;
due to the structure being saturated with resin, the wood is resistant to humidity and solar radiation;
have low cost.

Of course, you can make a fence from ash or oak, it will be more durable than a fence made from spruce or pine, but such a fence will cost a pretty penny. The best choice- larch, the most resistant to moisture of all coniferous species, having an adequate price.

If desired, except edged boards, the fence can be made from cheaper materials - slab or unedged board. Also available materials may be useful - sawmill waste, dead wood, pallets (pallets), old door leaves or window frames.

Use old pallets with caution: they are often made from hardwood wood, for example, birch, which does not tolerate moisture and rots in the air.

Calculation of material requirements

The required amount of materials is calculated based on the geometric dimensions of the site. Suppose the site has square shape measuring 30x30 meters, fenced on three sides with a picket fence 1.5 meters high, on the driveway side there is a blind fence 2 meters high, with a gate 2.5 meters wide and a wicket 1 meter wide. The depth of soil freezing is 1.4 meters, the aquifer is at a depth of 3.3 meters.

Based on the size of the site, we determine the need for materials

Racks made of pipe with a cross section of 60x60 mm and a height of 3.0 m

Length of fence along the driveway

L1= 30–(2.5+1)=26.5 m

Number of racks

L1: 2.5 + 1+2 =26.5: 2.5 +3= 13.6

Since we have an additional section, we take the number of racks equal to 14.

To seal the ends of the racks you will need a strip 100 x 4 mm, 100 mm long, with a total length of 9.8 m.

The total length of the picket fence with a height of 1.5 m:

The number of racks made of pipe with a cross section of 40x60 mm and a height of 2.5 m will be:

L2: 2.5 -1 = 90:2.5 - 1 = 36 –1= 35 pcs.

Horizontal logs are made from boards with a section of 40x100 mm long:

L3= 2.5 – 0.07 = 2.43 m

The number of logs is equal to the number of ordinary fencing sections multiplied by two:

(12 x 3 + 10) x 2= 92

For an additional section 1.5 m wide, two 40x100 boards 1.43 m long are needed.

We attach the logs to metal corners from a 30x3 profile, each 60 mm long, the total number is 94 pieces, equal to the number of logs.

For a fence 1.5 m high, we take planks 10 cm wide, 22 mm thick, 1.35 m high with a gap of 4 cm between the planks, 17 pickets will be required per row section, total quantity:

17 x 46 +10 = 792 pcs.

For a blind fence 2 m high, planks 10 cm wide, 1.85 m high, and 25 mm thick are needed. Their quantity will be 25 pieces. per section, total:

25 x 11 = 275 pcs.

In addition, you will need self-tapping screws for attaching the corners to the posts and crossbars to the corners, and nails for attaching the picket to the crossbars.

For foundations based on the depth of pits 1 m with a diameter of 40 mm, 6 - 6.5 m3 of crushed stone will be required.

Wood volume:

Boards 40x100 mm - 92 x 2.5 x 0.1 x 0.04 +2 x 1.5 x0.1 x 0.04 = 0.94 m3
Boards 100x22 mm - 1.5 x 0.1 x 0.022 x 792 = 2.38 m3
Boards 100x25 mm - 2 x 0.1 x 0.025 x 275 = 1.38 m3

Metal volume:

Racks 60x60 - 3.0 x 14 = 42 m.p.
Racks 40 x 60 – 2.5 x 35 = 87.5 m.p.
Angle 30 x 3, length 60 mm - 94 x 0.06 = 5.64 m.p.
Steel strip 100 x 4 – 9.8 m.p.

Wood will require impregnation and paint or a complex composition that protects the wood from pests, adverse weather conditions and fire. Metal requires a layer of soil, waterproofing for the underground part of the racks and a protective coating.

Since fence boards do not perform any work, the selection of thickness is determined by flexibility. From experience it is known that for horizontal boards - a log, a section of 100 x 40 mm is sufficient; for a picket height of 1.5 m with two fastening points, a board 22 mm thick is suitable; for a height of 2 m, a board 25 mm thick is suitable.

Required Tools

To complete the foundations, you will need a garden earth drill or you will have to dig holes 1–1.2 meters deep and 40 cm in diameter manually.

The toolkit includes:

Jigsaw;
Circular saw with discs for working on metal;
Welding machine;
Electric planer;
Electric drill with drills for metal and wood;
Wood hacksaw;
Hammer;
Pliers;
Screwdrivers;
Universal wrench;
Construction level, horizontal and vertical;
Roulette;
Cord or twine;
Brushes.

Installation of fencing, step-by-step instructions for DIY construction

Fencing the site is carried out in several stages:

Preparation of racks;
Installation of picket fence sections;
Marking the actual fence;
Excavation;
Installation of racks;
Installation of fencing.

There is another installation method, when all elements are fixed in place sequentially, without preparation. This method has a right to exist, however, it will take more time, and it is inconvenient to mount corners for attaching lags to an installed rack.

1. Preparation of racks

For each rack, in accordance with the drawing, for ordinary racks, two corners are attached to self-tapping screws on the long sides, and for corner racks - on two adjacent sides. Plates - plugs - are welded to the ends of the racks. Welds cleaned, the racks are covered with primer, then paint.2. Installation of picket fence sections

Pegs or reinforcement are driven into the place where the corner posts are installed.

A cord or twine is pulled along the perimeter of the area between the corner pegs. Using a tape measure, determine the installation locations of row racks.

4. Excavation work

Using a garden drill, we make a hole 1 - 1.2 m deep for corner posts and fence posts along the driveway, and a hole 0.8 - 1 m deep for the remaining posts. We pour sand in a layer of 0.1 - 0.2 m at the bottom of the hole and compact it well.

5. Installation of racks

We waterproof the underground part of the racks by wrapping bitumen-polymer material on mastic or covering with a special waterproofing compound for metal. We install the racks, fixing them in the recesses using pieces of reinforcement or corners. We fill the crushed stone with a layer of 20 - 25 cm, check the verticality of the support, compact it, and moisten the layer with water. We repeat the operation until the pit is leveled with the ground surface.

6. Installation of fencing

We install prepared fence panels. If the posts are installed correctly, at the required distance, height and without distortion, the fencing sections are mounted without problems. The fence joists are installed on corners fixed to the posts and screwed with self-tapping screws.

7. Painting the fence

Painting and protecting the wood of a fence can be done in different ways, which are discussed in the next section.

Materials for protecting and tinting wood

Until recently, stain, drying oil and PF-115 paint were offered for protecting and painting wood, but now the store shelves with such products are running wild. Wood coloring should have the following qualities:

Resistance to low and high temperatures, precipitation, wind;
Resistance to sunlight;
Resistance to pests, rot and fungus;
Durability;
Fire safety.

The following compositions are offered for protection and tinting:

Paints;
Enamel;
azure

Belinka, Slovenia;
Tikkurila, Finland;
ALPINA, Germany;
Teknos, Finland;
AQUATEX, RF;
Yaroslavl paints.

In order for the fence to serve for a long time, you will have to work hard: the processing takes place in several stages:

Cleaning from dirt,
Grinding;
Dust removal;
Primer with a complex composition that gives the wood fire resistance, resistance to rot and fungus;
tinting.

There are many options for painting a picket fence; if you wish, you can add your own method to the existing ones.

It is a mistake to believe that modern wooden fences do not gain a second life and do not gain widespread popularity. Since wood is a practical and relatively inexpensive material, the decision to use it to fence residential buildings and summer cottages has always been quite common. There are many options for such fencing, and most of them can be built yourself from commercially available timber.

Beautiful wooden fence made of horizontally installed boards

Types of wooden fences

All wooden fences used for the area around a private house or cottage are built from two parts - supports (otherwise known as pillars) and spans (sections) installed between them. When they talk about some kind of fencing, they mean exactly the method of filling the spans, because the supports can be made of different materials.

To choose suitable design, and then build a wooden fence with your own hands, you should familiarize yourself with the most popular options:

A regular or figured picket fence, assembled from slats on two crossbars attached to posts.
Traditional wickerwork that came to us from time immemorial.
A solid wooden fence made of small logs with ends pointed at 45° (picket fence).
The so-called checkerboard, where boards are nailed to both sides of the crossbars in a checkerboard pattern so that there are no openings.
Sections of boards nailed vertically or horizontally overlapping each other. The design resembles blinds.
Ranch wood fences. They are a fence made of horizontal poles nailed to posts at a great distance.

In addition to the listed types of home fencing, which have to be assembled from individual parts, ready-made ones are used in the form of frames with various fillings - gratings, slats, wicker.

When choosing a type of fence, you should consider what role the wooden fence should play and where it is planned to be installed. In practice, for the front side of a private house, a decorative, solid picket fence and “blinds” are most often used, less often “” and wattle fence. Ranch post fences, originally designed to enclose livestock, are used for fencing land plots or gardens at the rear.

Preparation of materials for the fence

Before you make a wooden fence, you need to select and purchase timber for it. If you are planning to build a picket fence, then the following wood products will be suitable for its installation:

edged boards of the same width;
croakers;
figured pickets cut on a machine;
small diameter logs.

The dimensions of the picket fences do not have to be the same in height. Planks of various lengths are selected in such an order that the lower ends are on the same horizontal line, and the upper ends form bulges or depressions, creating a wave effect. During the flight you can make several such waves.

Fence from wooden picket fence shaped like a wave

Suitable for a stockade long trunks with a diameter of up to 150 mm, completely cleared of bark. This measure is extremely necessary, because various tree pests live in the bark, which will quickly bring your new fence to a state of rottenness. If the bottom of the palisade rests on the ground, the lower ends of the logs should be treated with bitumen.

Fence palisade on a stone foundation

For a double-sided fence for a private house (checkerboard), wide boards, possibly uncut, will be used. It is advisable to select them approximately the same width and completely remove the bark. Fences resembling vertical or horizontal blinds are made from the same timber.

Checkered fence with horizontal arrangement boards

You need to make a wattle fence from vines or flexible rods of small diameter (up to 4 cm). There is no need to clear them of bark; this is too labor-intensive an operation. The rods are prepared by cutting into cold period years, when the movement of juices inside the tree has not yet begun

Wooden fence - wattle fence made of branches

For a fence on metal poles, you need to select rolled steel of the appropriate sizes in advance. It is most convenient to work with profile pipes with a cross section of 60x60 mm, there is no point in taking more. Conventional ones are also used round pipes, purchased at the nearest scrap metal collection point.

Selection of wood species and its processing

What it is not recommended to build wooden fences from is birch. This rock, when exposed to weather conditions, begins to rot quite quickly, which is why the fence around the house will not last even 10 years. Of the most common and affordable species for fences, the following are used:

pine;
aspen;
alder;
larch.

Coniferous trees are characterized by a high resin content, due to which they successfully resist the effects of moisture, subject to proper processing and constant care. The best option– construction of a fence made of larch, which is not afraid of either rain or cold. If you wish and have the funds, you can make a fence from valuable types of wood - oak or ash; their dense structure also tolerates precipitation well.

Wicker wooden fences are made from flexible rods and branches of various species, including fruit trees:

nut;
willow, willow;
maple, poplar;
mulberry;
Apple tree;
cherry.

When buying wood for building a fence, you should make sure that it is well dried, otherwise your structure will lose its appearance after 2-3 cold seasons. As the timber dries naturally, it will begin to crack, warp and become deformed. Drying the wood can be done at home under a canopy, which will take at least 1 year. This condition does not apply to wicker fences, where, on the contrary, good flexibility of the branches is required.

In addition to drying, timber requires antiseptic treatment to prevent rotting and destruction various insects– pests. Great way– apply a continuous layer of resin or special bitumen impregnation to the wood. But you cannot cover the entire fence with bitumen, which is why the technique is used only to protect the underground parts of wooden posts.

For antiseptic treatment, colorless commercially available compounds are used (Biosept, Novotex), as well as Swedish paint, made at home using the following algorithm:

Cook a paste from 550 g of flour dissolved in 3 liters of water.
Strain the paste so that there are no lumps left, put on low heat.
Add 240 g each copper sulfate and table salt, mix thoroughly.
While stirring, pour 220 ml of drying oil and 230 g of red lead into the solution.
Bring the volume of water to 4.5 liters and let the paint cool.

Construction of the supporting part of the fence

The first thing you need to do is mark the area for the wooden fence with your own hands. Having retreated the required distance from the house, you should stretch the cord along the installation line of the future fence. Then, in the places where the pillars are installed, you need to drive stakes into the ground with the following calculation:

the optimal distance between supports is 2.5 m with a fence height of up to 200 cm;
if you plan to install a fence higher than 200 cm, then to contain the high wind load on the posts, it is better to reduce the distance between them to 2 m;
The posts of low fences (up to 120 cm) can be spaced up to 3 m apart.

If you are not using ready-made sections standard size, then divide the entire length into equal intervals, taking into account the listed recommendations. Then proceed with the installation of the supporting part made of wood or using metal elements(pipes, channels, corners). You can combine wood with metal by fixing a steel pipe in the ground and attaching a 100x100 mm timber post to it.

There are 4 ways to install support posts in the ground:

Driving a post into the ground to a depth of at least 0.8 m and then compacting the soil around it.
Digging or drilling a hole 40 cm deep and driving a post another 40 cm below its level. After compacting the bottom, the hole is filled with concrete. The name of the technique is the construction of a concrete collar.
Zabutovka. The hole is dug to the full depth (0.8 m), then compacted, a stand is installed and backfilled with stones with compaction. The gaps between them are filled with a liquid clay solution.
Full concreting. The same pit with an installed support is filled with concrete from bottom to top.

Methods for installing metal poles

Since wooden fences are not very heavy, but experience lateral loads from the wind, the most reliable methods are concreting and backfilling. Simple hammering and posts with a concrete collar are appropriate for small fence heights or low windage, when there are many gaps between the elements.

Frame assembly

At this stage, the installation of horizontal crossbars is carried out, connecting the pillars with each other and serving as the basis for fastening the span filling elements. The frame is assembled using the following methods:

A beam of 40x60 mm or larger is nailed directly to the wooden posts. The joints of adjacent bars should be located in the center of the support.
The same, only for the horizontal beam in the column, a sample is made, and fastening is carried out using both nails and self-tapping screws.
The simplest way to attach a jumper to iron pipe– drill in both parts through hole and pass a bolt through them. The beam is securely attached to the rack with a nut.
TO steel pipes pieces of metal corners or strips are welded. Holes are drilled in them and the timber is again bolted.

If you decide to install a fence near a private house horizontal elements as unedged boards, slats or logs, then one jumper will be required - at the top of the racks. To attach a picket fence you need 2 crossbars, to install a “checkerboard” - three. It is assumed that a wooden fence has a standard height of 2 m; with other parameters, the number of cross members may vary.

The construction of a fence with elements in the form of slightly open blinds is somewhat different. The supports should be tied together with one beam on top, and the visor will then be attached to it. And for installation wooden planks at an angle on the pillars you will have to install 2 wide boards vertically on each side.

Final installation of spans

This The final stage assembly, during which the installation of filling parts is carried out - picket fences, palisade logs or checkerboard boards. Traditionally, 2 types of fasteners are used - nails and galvanized screws. To ensure that a wooden fence near a private house is reliable and lasts for many years, follow these recommendations when installing it:

Attach the picket fence strips to the lintels with outside, driving 2 nails at each point for rigidity;
when assembling a double-sided fence, nail the front boards first, and then the back ones;
use building level, checking each bar;
the logs of the palisade should be nailed on the reverse side;
Attach fencing slats in the form of slightly open blinds from the ends through boards secured to posts;
horizontally oriented boards must be attached directly to the posts.

Finished wooden fences are often protected on top with a canopy, which at the same time plays a decorative role. The easiest way to make it is from thin metal With polymer coating or remnants of metal tiles. The construction of the fence is completed by painting all wooden parts in the desired color or varnishing.