Laying sewer pipes in a private house. Depth of laying a sewer pipe in a private house. External sewer networks

Regardless of whether it is connected a private house to the central or autonomous sewerage, the wastewater disposal system on the street must be equipped independently. Before you begin this work, you need to develop an installation scheme that allows you to get by with the minimum size of the pipeline and sewer network connections.

This will reduce the cost of purchasing material and increase the efficiency of the wastewater disposal system. Particular attention should be paid to the depth of pipe laying, the angle of their inclination and the reliability of flange connections, since the performance of the sewage system depends on these parameters.

Connecting a private house to the sewer system

Circumstances and layout of external sewerage

The external part of the sewer system in a private house connects the outlet of the internal drain with a pipeline network to a waste storage tank located on the site, or to the central sewer system. Read about the internal wiring in the house in the article. The laying of external sewer pipes is carried out according to a pre-developed scheme, taking into account the following circumstances:

  • terrain features;
  • weather;
  • remoteness of wells and reservoirs;
  • the total volume of wastewater, depending on the number of people permanently residing in the house;
  • the depth of soil freezing and its composition;
  • access paths for a vacuum truck, if necessary.

In the scheme for laying external sewerage, it is imperative to provide for its ventilation, since otherwise, over time, unpleasant odors will penetrate into residential premises. Read about the rules for sewer ventilation in the article. Ventilation is arranged using a vent pipe, which can be placed on the lid of the septic tank or on a section of the pipeline running from the house to the wastewater storage tank.


Scheme of arrangement of autonomous external sewerage

The septic tank is installed at the lowest point of the geological terrain of the site. This arrangement allows for the most optimal installation of external sewerage. It should be laid in a straight line to the location of the outlet pipe internal system wastewater disposal.

Choosing a drain location

When choosing a drain location, you should first of all make sure that bad smell did not enter residential premises. As a result, it should be located no closer than five meters from the house. The optimal distance would be ten meters; it is also not worth placing the septic tank too far away, since this significantly increases the cost of laying the pipeline network. The external sewage system should not be connected to the house at a right angle. In addition, the following must be taken into account:

  • water sources should be located no closer than thirty meters;
  • a septic tank cannot be installed on the border of a neighboring plot;
  • for ease of pumping out sewage, it is better to locate the drain close to the road;
  • Particularly careful sealing of the storage tank is necessary when soil water is close to each other;
  • The laying of the pipeline network is facilitated by the natural slope of the area.

Rules for placing a septic tank on the site

The cesspool for sewage has been used since ancient times. Previously, they did not waste effort on sealing its walls, and when the hole was filled, they covered it with earth and dug a new one. Now the walls are laid out of brick, concrete rings and other building materials.

Liquid fractions of waste seep through the soil at the bottom, filtering, solid components gradually fill the mine, and after some time they need to be pumped out.

It is advisable to install a cesspool if the volume of wastewater in a private house does not exceed one cubic meter per day. If this norm is exceeded, pollution will occur. environment.

Instead of a cesspool, you can equip a sealed container to accumulate wastewater. In this case, the bottom and walls of the shaft are thoroughly waterproofed. This prevents the possibility of soil and drinking water contamination. The disadvantage of this system is the need for frequent cleaning, since the sealed container fills up quite quickly.

Deciding on the type of treatment plant

Treatment facilities for a private home are equipped in the form of a simple cesspool without a bottom or a sealed container for wastewater. A single-chamber septic tank with soil treatment or a two-chamber septic tank with a filter well can improve wastewater filtration. It is possible to build three chambers with a filtration field, as well as using a biofilter and an air supply system.


Septic tank with filtration from tires

A single-chamber septic tank is essentially a cesspool with a drainage layer. Crushed stone or gravel mixed with sand is poured into the bottom of the well. Passing through the filter layer, liquid waste fractions are purified before entering the soil. After some time, the drainage layer needs to be replaced, as silt deposits are deposited on it. A single-chamber septic tank is suitable for a private house with a small volume of wastewater.

A two-chamber septic tank consists of a storage tank and a filter well, which are connected by an overflow pipe. In the settling tank, the feces are partially clarified and then fall into a shaft with a drainage layer at the bottom. They seep into the soil already sufficiently purified.

A two-chamber septic tank is a popular sewerage option for a private home, as it does not require large financial costs for his equipment and works efficiently.

Installing a septic tank with two or more chambers, as well as a filtration field, virtually eliminates the possibility of environmental pollution. After settling in the first container, the partially clarified wastewater flows through the overflow pipe into the next chamber with anaerobic bacteria that decompose organic residues. Read about how to make a septic tank with your own hands from scrap materials in the article

Having sequentially passed through all sections, the wastewater enters the filtration field, which is an area underground of about thirty square meters, where the final soil cleanup takes place. If available on site free space This method of arranging a sewer system is optimal.


Diagram of a septic tank with a biofilter

A septic tank with a biofilter is a deep sewage treatment station. According to the principle of operation, it is similar to a treatment system with a filtration field, only in this case it is replaced by a water separator and anaerobic bacteria introduced at the outlet of the overflow pipe into the fourth section, which purify the wastewater by approximately ninety-five percent. This water can be used for technical needs.

It is irrational to install deep cleaning stations in private houses with periodic residence, since if a sewage system of a similar design is not used constantly, the bacteria that decompose organic residues die. In addition, they are quite expensive.

Laying depth of sewer pipes

The depth of soil freezing is a fundamental factor when burying sewer pipes into the ground. They need to be laid below the freezing point, otherwise they will freeze in winter, and it will be impossible to use the sewer until the spring thaw. The appearance of even small ice build-ups on the internal surfaces of pipelines leads to a decrease in their permeability and the formation of blockages.


Map of standard freezing depths

In the southern regions, the depth of laying sewer pipes is fifty centimeters or more, in the central regions - seventy centimeters or more. You need to know exactly the depth of soil freezing in your region so as not to go deeper into the ground than necessary, since in this case the costs of doing the work will increase.

Organization of sewer pipe removal from the house

Organization of output sewer pipe from the house depends on what stage of readiness for operation the building is at. If the house has just been built, the foundation may shrink, so it is necessary to drill a hole in it for the outlet of the sewer pipe with a noticeably larger diameter than the cross-section of the pipe itself.


Options for drainage schemes from the house

If the house is just being built, the outlet pipe can be walled up during the process of laying the foundation. The foundation of a house built several years ago will no longer settle, so the diameter of the hole drilled for the outlet pipe does not need to be increased. Plumbing fixtures should be located at a short distance from the common drain, since in this case it is easier to connect them to the common outlet. If the house has two or more floors, the bathrooms should be placed one above the other, and in this case you can get by with one riser.

Do-it-yourself installation of external sewerage in a private house

The external sewerage system consists of a cleaning tank and a pipeline system connecting the septic tank to the house. Before execution installation work A diagram of the external sewerage system is drawn on the site plan.


Practical options for removing sewerage from the house

Then special pipes with a diameter of at least 100 mm are selected, intended for outdoor use. Usually they have Orange color. A trench is dug to lay the pipeline. Its depth is selected depending on climatic features terrain, composition and characteristics of the soil, as well as other factors. If necessary, the pipeline network is insulated.

The most labor-intensive part of the work when installing a sewer system with your own hands in a private house is digging a pit for a cesspool or septic tank. Optimal distance The distance the septic tank is removed from the house is about ten meters.

The volume of the storage tank directly depends on the number of people permanently residing in the house and the frequency of their use of plumbing fixtures.

Connect the storage container to the outlet of the internal sewer drain best in a straight line, bends and turns in the piping system increase the likelihood of clogging. For ease of cleaning, a long line in places where the direction changes should be equipped with inspection hatches.
This is what a properly equipped outdoor sewer system looks like

Wastewater moves through the pipeline system by gravity, under the influence gravitational forces, so you need to endure correct angle tilt If it's too small, large fragments waste will be retained and the sewer will become clogged.

If the slope is too great, solid fractions will be thrown towards the walls of the pipe, and again it will become clogged. You will find information about the correct slope of the sewer in the article

The desired angle is maintained and controlled building level when digging a trench, its depth increases as it approaches the storage tank or central sewer. A shock-absorbing cushion is placed at the bottom of the ditch, which is a filling of sand, and pipes are laid directly on it. If it is necessary to change the slope angle of the pipes, sand is poured in the right place.

An important operational parameter of the sewer system is the depth of the pipeline network. It must be below the freezing point of the soil in a given region. Otherwise frozen in winter wastewater can rupture the pipeline network and disable the sewer system. For repair work We'll have to wait for the spring thaw.

How to properly insulate a pipe

To prevent emergency situations during the cold season, it is better to insulate the sewer system. Many have good thermal insulation properties. modern materials, such as polyurethane foam, fiberglass or mineral wool. You can properly insulate a pipe by simply wrapping it with insulation and placing it in a shell made of a mixture of asbestos and cement.


Options for insulating external sewerage

Can also be secured over thermal insulation plastic film. In cold northern regions, to protect sewer pipes from freezing, the insulating layer is additionally equipped with an electric heating system. In any case, the pipeline network must be laid below the level of soil freezing depth, especially if snowdrifts that melt in the spring form on the surface. Interesting experience You can learn more about laying external sewer pipes from the following video.

Gone are the days when in country and private houses all amenities were located on the street. Now, to create basic comfort, it is necessary to lay a sewer system in a private house. This very important task is not difficult.

To lay a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, you need to start by creating a competent project. When constructing a new building, it is important to design drains not on a residual basis, but in conjunction with all systems, since sewerage is one of the most important life support points for a modern home.

It is also necessary to first clarify whether it is possible to connect private housing to a centralized sewerage system. This will save money and time on construction. You need to know what soils may lie near the house; geological exploration will help with this.

A project for the sewer system of a private house should include the following items:

Installation of external sewerage

According to SNiP 2.04.03-85 “Sewerage. External networks and structures" from bearing capacity soil depends on the type of cushion for the sewer pipeline. In trenches in rocky soils, a cushion with a thickness of 100 mm or more is provided from carefully compacted sand or gravel. In peat, silty and other weak soils, an artificial base is made. For other types of soil, it is sufficient to thoroughly compact the immediate bottom of the trench.

The depth of the pipes depends on the level of soil freezing in the area. The top of the water supply must be below the freezing point. With a soil layer height of less than 700 mm drainpipes must be insulated and protected from damage if ground transport is expected to pass from above.

The bottom of the trench must be cleared of debris and large stones, and the base is prepared. The pipeline must be brought to the house from the place of sewage discharge from minimum quantity turns. If they cannot be avoided, then smooth pipe bends are used. Pipes and fittings are connected to each other using sealant.

The sewerage supply to a private house must be as required:

  • for a pipe with a diameter of 160 mm, a slope of 0.008 is required;
  • for a supply pipe measuring 110 mm – 0.02;
  • a pipeline with a diameter of 50 mm must be laid at a slope of 0.03.

At the exit from the building, a metal sleeve is inserted into the foundation hole to lay pipes in it. The remaining space must be filled with insulation, for example, mineral wool.

By fulfilling these simple conditions, you can protect yourself from a sudden break in the external sewage network or its freezing in winter. For example, the process of repair work in cold period year is complicated by digging a trench in frozen ground.

Collection and storage of wastewater

If this is not possible, several options for a local system for the discharge, storage and treatment of wastewater are used:

  • cesspool;
  • septic tank

Traditional cesspools are not the best option, from an environmental point of view. But they are the most in an economical way organize an autonomous storage facility for household wastewater. When choosing this method, it is important to correctly organize the placement of the pit:

  • Distance between cesspool and the well must be more than 25 m.
  • The well for drainage should be located further than 5 m from the house.
  • With a sewerage capacity of 8 sq.m. meters the distance increases to 8 m.
  • The distance from the cesspool to the border of the site must be at least 1.5 m.
  • The cesspool is located downstream groundwater to prevent wastewater from entering wells.
  • The sewage well is located below the level of the house.

The material for building a cesspool is traditionally red brick. If access is possible, special equipment will construct a pit using ready-made ones with a pre-concrete bottom. The structure is covered with a slab with an inspection hatch and a built-in pipe for ventilation.

A more progressive solution for organizing wastewater collection is a septic tank. It usually consists of two or three chambers. In the first chamber, the solid fraction settles and decomposition occurs with the help of bacteria. The filtered liquid is sent to the next tank for further purification. In the last chamber, the purified liquid seeps through the gravel base into the soil. A septic tank must be equipped ventilation pipe with an umbrella. The structure must be emptied of settled solid waste every 5–10 years. Such designs are purchased ready-made.

Internal wiring

In addition to arranging external sewerage, it is important to know how to properly lay pipes inside the house. There are many nuances:

  • Water intake points should be located as compactly as possible for optimal organization of the sewer system.
  • The toilet is connected to the riser separately from other appliances to prevent them from sucking up drainage from the toilet.
  • Drains from sinks, sinks, showers and more plumbing equipment must be connected to a common riser higher than the drain from the toilet.
  • The slope of the pipes should be 2–9°.
  • Every four meters of the riser, revisions must be installed at a height of more than 1 m from the floor.
  • If the sewer pipes are not hidden under the floor, then inspections must be installed before each turn.
  • The riser is equipped with a ventilation pipe with its outlet above the roof level from 70 cm. This will protect the home from unpleasant odors.
  • IN unheated rooms The pipeline must be insulated.
  • Parts of the pipeline at the joints are coated with sealant.
  • To organize drains from sinks and sinks, a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm is sufficient; for toilets, bathtubs and showers - 110 mm.
  • The diameter of the riser must be at least 110 mm.
  • The smaller the diameter of the pipe, the greater its slope should be.

Connection diagram of the riser with the external sewer pipe

It is advisable to soundproof sewer pipes (this will increase the level of comfort of the home) by arranging a plasterboard box and filling it with mineral wool.

If you choose a sewage system under the floor in a private house, then additional conditions according to SNiP must be observed. In addition to the fact that with such installation the height of the room is lost, it is not possible to install underground sewerage everywhere. It is prohibited to install it:

  • in food storage rooms;
  • V living rooms(bedrooms, guest rooms or children's rooms);
  • in rooms for long-term stay of people (offices, classrooms);
  • into rooms with installed electrical equipment.

Important! The configuration of the underground sewer system should be as simple as possible, without unnecessary turns, transitions and fittings.

When installing a drainage system under the ceiling, a number of rules must be observed:

  • The diameter of the pipes should not be more than 110 mm.
  • The fittings are mounted at an angle of 45°.
  • The fasteners are installed at a distance from each other equal to the pipe diameter multiplied by 10.
  • The presence of underground wiring in the bathroom should not create an excess of the floor above other rooms.
  • Increased demands are placed on the quality of the materials used, since repairing the laid network will require breaking the ceilings.

Installing the internal wiring of sewer pipes in a private house with your own hands is quite a simple task, but it requires care and serious attitude to the details that distinguish quality repairs.

July 17, 2016
Specialization: master of interior and exterior finishing (plaster, putty, tiles, drywall, lining, laminate, etc.). In addition, plumbing, heating, electrical, conventional cladding and balcony extensions. That is, renovations in an apartment or house were done on a turnkey basis with all necessary types works

Perhaps someone has already encountered this, while others are just about to lay sewer pipes in a private house. In any case, you can check out five very important conditions for high-quality and long-term operation, which are sometimes overlooked.

Failure to comply with these requirements may well be called errors, but some of them can be changed on an existing pipeline. I’ll tell you about this, so make yourself comfortable, let’s begin.

Conditions and installation of sewerage

5 requirements that are sometimes forgotten

I suggest that you first familiarize yourself with the important conditions for laying pipelines, so that when considering installation, we assume them “by default”:

  1. As the instructions from SNiP 2.04.03-85 and SNiP 2.04.01-85 indicate, each sewer pipeline, if there is no forced drainage, must be installed at a slope. This angle is regulated by the same rules, depending on the diameter of the pipe, but not the location of its installation.
  2. Any sewer can become clogged from time to time, but in long sections such a clog may be inaccessible to clearing. Therefore, for the purpose of preventive maintenance of communications, audits are installed at a certain distance (for indoors) or inspection wells are installed (for outdoors).
  3. When installing sewer pipelines, septic tanks and storage tanks, certain distances must be maintained to other objects and structures. This precaution minimizes the damage that could be caused by a leak or rupture.
  4. To prevent pipes from freezing, they are laid below the ground freezing level, or at the zero point level. Unified system These parameters do not exist even by region, since the connection to the terrain and type of soil is decisive here.
  5. At home, the sand cushion is often neglected, but this can be regarded not even as negligence, but as a serious mistake. Sand protects the pipeline from sharp stones and metal fragments, does not lead to displacement during soil subsidence and partially serves as insulation.

Outdoor pipeline installation

City and surrounding areas Depth in cm
Khanty-Mansiysk 240
Novosibirsk, Omsk 220
Ukhta, Tobolsk, Petropavlovsk 210
Orsk, Kurgan 200
Magnitogorsk, Chelyabinsk, Ekaterinburg, Perm 190
Orenburg, Ufa, Syktyvkar 180
Kazan, Kirov, Izhevsk 170
Samara, Ulyanovsk 160
Saratov, Penza, Nizhny Novgorod, Kostroma, Vologda 150
Tver, Moscow, Ryazan 140
St. Petersburg, Voronezh, Volgograd 120
Kursk, Smolensk, Pskov 110
Astrakhan, Belgorod 100
Rostov-on-Don 90
Stavropol 80
Kaliningrad 70
Khanty-Mansiysk 240
Novosibirsk, Omsk 220

Table of soil freezing to 0⁰C in Russia

Now let's figure out how to lay sewer pipes in a private house, and I recommend starting with the external laying of the pipeline (from the house to the end point).

The whole point is that later it will be easier for you to navigate the depth of exit through the foundation, that is, you will need to calculate the internal one so as to reach a point of a certain depth. I set such priorities due to the fact that in the room the depth of communications does not matter.

As you can see from the table, the average depth of soil freezing in a particular region may be quite large and it will be difficult for you to install a pipeline at this level. Therefore, to avoid freezing, you can resort to insulation using polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

In addition, there are ready-made shells for a certain pipe diameter. However, the price of polystyrene or mineral wool shells is quite high, especially if there is a foil coating, so I would recommend wrapping the communications manually.

If you do not know what the depth of soil freezing is in your area, then you can go through the experience you have already acquired, that is, find out about the depth of pipe laying from your nearest neighbors.
In such cases, a good indicator is the installation of the water supply system and if it does not freeze, then according to the same technical specifications sewerage can also be installed.

To insulate pipes manually, it is best for you to use basalt wool(Adjust the thickness yourself - it depends on local needs). Slag wool should not be used for this purpose - it contains pieces of iron ore, which rusts.

This causes the wool to sag, which leads to an increase in thermal conductivity. It is best to fix the cotton wool with nylon threads, and then wrap it with roofing material, as in the top photo, or with thick polyethylene, securing it with wire or the same threads. But still, adhesive tape proved to be the best in this matter.

Table of required distances between various objects and sewerage

Decide on the route along which you will lay this communication - also take into account the possibility of installing inspection wells, if necessary. By the way, you may have problems with neighbors who do not like the location of your septic tank or cesspool.

But here there is a way out - you can call BTI representatives before starting work, who will issue the appropriate permit. Having such a document will save you from having to explain things to your “friendly” neighbors.

Table of optimal and minimum slope for sewer pipes

Now you can dig a trench with an approximate slope, depending on the diameter of the pipeline that you will lay - use the table above for this. Most often, for the private sector, if there is no centralized sewerage system, a diameter of 100 mm is used - this is quite enough.

But in some cases, when several yards are combined to drain wastewater into one septic tank or cesspool, the cross-section of the pipes may increase, but you will not use more than 200 mm.

Sewerage installation: 1 - pour a pillow; 2 - lay the pipe; 3 - fill it with sand

Place a sand cushion at least 20-30 mm thick at the bottom of the trench and use it to level the slope you need. The final angle is set when assembling and laying the pipeline itself - you simply add or remove sand into the in the right places. After installation, you need to fill the pipes with sand, compact it, and only after that add the previously removed soil (I already mentioned this above).

Since the technology of laying sewer pipes in the ground requires immobility of the soil, compacted sand is needed for this purpose.
However, it is quite difficult to compact the unsteady mass, and for this purpose I simply water it generously - shrinkage occurs within half an hour, after which you can fill the trench with soil.

In the absence of a centralized sewer system, you will need to install some kind of storage or flow-type container, that is, a cesspool or septic tank. For this purpose, concrete, metal and plastic tanks are used, although, in the case of a cesspool separate container there may be none at all, although this is not very hygienic.

But I won’t talk about the installation of such treatment or storage facilities now, since this is a topic for a separate article.

When laying underground sewer lines, avoid using bends at right angles - with this configuration of the route, the possibility of blockage increases sharply.
If you still cannot do without this, then you can combine the rotation using two 45⁰ fittings.

Installation in the house

The layout of sewer pipes in the room directly depends on the location of the plumbing units in the house. For example, you may have two toilets or an additional sink (sink) on the second floor, then you cannot do without a riser. However, it is imperative to follow the slope that you saw in the table above.

There is no pipe with a diameter of 32 mm, but they are used for washing or dishwasher, where the flow is forced, so that a counter-slope is even possible (if technical conditions require it).

Crosspieces 100×50 mm of various configurations

In any case, the extreme point is the toilet, since it is connected to the socket of the faucet tee or the outlet of the hundredth pipe going outside (to the riser or sun lounger). All other devices require a pipe with a diameter of 50 mm, which is connected to a 100x50 mm fitting.

This could be a tee or a cross with different angles and the diameter of the bends. Similar fittings exist for junctions of any complexity - these are different couplings, angles, tees and crosses of either the same or different diameters.

Rubber reduction 50×32 mm

But there are no plastic reductions with a 32 mm outlet, therefore, to connect the 50th and 32nd pipes, a rubber reduction is used - it is quite reliable for low and medium pressure pipelines. The same reductions (50×40 mm and 50×25 mm) are used to connect siphons for sinks, sinks, bathtubs and showers.

In each socket, be it a pipe, an outlet or a reduction, in mandatory there must be a sealing rubber double-leaf ring that ensures the tightness of the connection. Such seals do not need to be purchased separately - they are sold complete with the equipment.

If you purchased pipes and fittings from different manufacturers (although this is not even necessary), then you will have difficulty connecting.
The O-ring will create an obstacle, and if you press harder, it may bite.
I solve this problem by lubricating the connection liquid agent for dish washing.

Conclusion

From a technical point of view, laying sewer pipes with your own hands, even if you follow all the recommendations that I mentioned above, is quite simple.

Watch the video in this article for a more visual representation of the information presented. Perhaps you have your own developments - share them, describing the technology in the comments.

In order for the wastewater disposal system to function flawlessly, several nuances must be taken into account when arranging it. We will tell you today what a sewer system is for a private home, how to install it correctly and what mistakes should be avoided.

Pipe routing

Sewer installation is one of the most complex processes, so its arrangement should be given the utmost attention. close attention. Its assembly must fully comply with the requirements of SNiP.

Installation of the sewerage system is carried out in stages:
first laid release(pipe connecting the external street and indoor systems);

Release device

Next is mounted riser– central pipe, located vertically; to facilitate maintenance, it is better if he is alone in the house; as a rule, it is located in utility rooms or toilet; it should not be installed in living rooms or kitchens; it is installed openly or placed in a special shaft;

Last to be connected bends, starting from the crosses, only upside down; in this case, the toilet is connected to the riser only separately with a 100-110 mm pipe, the remaining devices can be connected to a single common supply with thin 50 mm pipes.

Advice. To make it easier for the pipes to fit into the fasteners, you can use liquid soap.

Release installation

1. It is better to install a special hole for it during the construction of the house. If it is not there, then a hole is made in the foundation 200-250 mm wider than the diameter of the pipe itself.

2. Hole waterproofed using bitumen mastic.

3. Next, a special sleeve is inserted into it (a section with a diameter 20-40 mm larger than the outlet pipe). It serves to prevent destruction of the main pipeline. The sleeve should protrude 150 mm from the foundation on both sides.

4. The outlet pipe is placed in the sleeve. The space between them is carefully filled with foam.

5. The sleeve is connected to the internal sewer pipe oblique tee(45° tee) and withdrawal.


Sewer crosses, tees and bends

Slope angle

Since wastewater flows through the pipes by gravity, in order to avoid blockages, the angle of their slope should be correctly determined. It is calculated based on the diameter of the pipeline. Moreover, for each plumbing fixture it is selected separately:

40-55 mm – from 3%;

85-100 mm – from 2%.

Naturally, the further the device is from the riser, the more the slope should be increased. Let's say drain hole is located at a distance of 200 m from the riser itself. To obtain the required angle of inclination, the pipe should be shifted in height by 60 mm.


Pipe angle

Advice. When choosing pipes for sewerage, please note that outdoor pipes are always painted orange, and pipes intended for indoor installation are always painted gray.

Riser installation

1. He's only going to down up. For such a pipe, appropriate openings are prepared in the floors and roof. To reduce the noise of water passage, a distance of 20 mm should be taken from the wall or groove.

2. The riser is mounted only strictly vertical. Minor deviations of up to 2 mm per every 2 m are allowed.

3. To ensure that the joints do not impede the passage of liquid, the sockets are mounted above.

4. When assembled, they are gradually connected side bends and inspection hatches. For this purpose, oblique tees and crosses are used.

5. When connecting bends, pipes running parallel to the floor are laid on special supports.


Sewage system diagram

6. Excessive turns of pipes should be avoided, if you cannot do without them, it is better to use two tees at 45°, or even better, three at 30°; if you choose one at 90°, then there will be waste in it stagnate; in addition, when connecting at a right angle, the pressure in the riser will be extreme, which will lead to excessive noise in room.

Advice. Since blockages most often occur at turning points, be sure to provide inspection or inspection hatches next to them.

7. The riser is fixed to the wall with clamps, which should be located under the sockets. The distance between the clamps is up to 4 m. In order not to damage the system, the holes for them should be prepared in advance or, when preparing them, the riser should be temporarily disassembled.


Riser assembly diagram

Hood arrangement

To prevent odors from entering the room, a curved pipe is provided at the bottom of all plumbing fixtures (sinks, toilets, etc.) water seal. However, with intensive use of the sewer system, a vacuum sometimes forms in the riser. In this case, a “water seal failure” occurs - gases begin to penetrate into the house without the resistance of water.

To avoid this, it is necessary to provide for their release into the atmosphere. The drain pipe for ventilation of the sewer system is discharged through the roof. Its diameter is always equal to the diameter of the main pipe. If fan pipe passes through unheated attic space, it needs to be insulated.

With a small sewer capacity Sewage equipment without exhaust is allowed. However, in this case, the riser must necessarily end with a cleaning or inspection hatch.


Inspection hatch and cleaning hole (equipped with a plug)

Basic wiring rules

To ensure that sewerage problems never arise during operation, the following rules should be followed when arranging it:

To prevent sewage from spilling out, all plumbing is connected above the toilet;

To avoid blockages, strong bends and excessive sharp pipe turns;


Installation of sewer system

supply pipe diameter selected equal to or slightly larger than the size of the largest pipe from the plumbing fixture;

If there is a toilet in the house common riser diameter must be greater than or at least equal to 100 mm - the diameter of the toilet pipe;

The line to it should not exceed a meter; from other plumbing fixtures is allowed liner length up to 3 m; if for some reason it is made larger, then its diameter is increased to the size of the total riser (at least 100 mm); in order not to increase its diameter, you can equip a vacuum valve at its upper end;

To service the system, it is necessary to provide inspection hatches and cleaning hatches; they should be located every 10 m;

To winter period the pipes are not frozen; where they pass underground, they should be carefully insulate.

A person always strives for comfort, and this desire motivates him to action. Absence in country village centralized wastewater disposal systems are not a reason to be content with little. After all, the homeowner can equip local systems on the site, and laying a sewer system in a private house will make country life no less comfortable than living in the city. Moreover, it is possible to lay a sewer system in a private house with your own hands, this will allow you to avoid unnecessary expenses on paying for the services of repair and construction companies.

In order for a self-built sewer system to work effectively, it is worth spending time studying the basics of design theory. When carrying out construction, you must comply building codes and sanitary rules.

Drafting

After all, everyone knows that remodeling is always more expensive than construction itself. Studying the information will allow you to imagine in advance the scope of the upcoming work and draw up a clear plan for its implementation.

When constructing a sewer system, SNiP regulates the choice of diameter and slope of pipes, the depth of their installation and many others important nuances, thanks to which the drainage system will work without failures.

Construction engineering systems, whether it is sewerage installation in the bathroom or completely autonomous system drainage cannot be carried out without having a detailed project in hand.

The expectation that the master will be able to figure out the circuits and wiring “as he goes” is completely wrong. With this approach to construction, mistakes cannot be avoided, so a sewerage design for a private house must be drawn up before installation work begins.

First steps

Before you begin drawing up a sewerage diagram, it is worth deciding on the requirements that will be imposed on the operation of the future system. The following issues need to be resolved:

  • Where is the construction taking place? When laying sewerage in an apartment, you only need to design internal networks. When drawing up a project for a house, you also need to design external networks that are laid in the ground. If a sewerage diagram is drawn up in frame house, then water supply and drainage pipes were most often laid secretly - in the hollow walls of the frame.


Design Rules

Having answered all the questions posed above, you can begin to draw up a sewerage project. It should be noted that if new construction is planned, then the design of engineering systems should be carried out simultaneously with the design of the house itself.

As a rule, in this case, compact placement of all water intake points is planned, which makes it possible to create the simplest wastewater disposal scheme. But everyone knows what exactly simple circuits turn out to be the most effective.

Selecting a location for installing a treatment plant

Laying sewer networks in an apartment with your own hands is not difficult; assembling external networks is much more difficult. Laying an external sewer begins with choosing an installation location treatment plant. Here are the basic requirements for choosing a location for installing a septic tank:

  • The treatment facility must be located at least five meters from the house. At the same time, it is also irrational to locate the septic tank very far away, since this will lead to a lengthening of the external pipeline and an increase in the costs of its construction.


  • Particular attention should be paid to ensuring that the septic tank is located as far as possible from the well from which water enters the house. drinking water. Minimum distance between these two objects - 30 m, and if the site has good filtering soil (sand), then this distance should be increased to 50 meters.
  • The septic tank should not be located directly next to the fence of the neighboring plot; you need to retreat from it at least two meters.

Sewage installation

Any sewer system, regardless of the degree of complexity of its scheme, is divided into two parts. The part that is located in the house is called the internal circuit, and the part laid along the street, respectively, is the external circuit.

Sewage internal networks

  • Sewerage installation in a private house begins by determining the location of the treatment plant.

Advice! As a rule, the septic tank should be located on the side where there is a natural slope of the site's topography.

  • Knowing in which direction the septic tank will be located, it will be possible to determine where the internal network pipes will exit the house. Here you will need to make a hole in the foundation through which the pipe will pass.
  • Next, the sewer system in the house is laid so that all drains are reduced to the point where the pipe exits the foundation.
  • The best scheme internal sewerage it is worth recognizing the one in which the installation is provided sewer riser. All pipes leading from water drainage points in the house will be connected to this pipe.


It should be noted that sewerage wiring in a private house can be either open (that is, with pipes secured to the walls using clamps) or hidden (that is, pipes run under the floor and in partitions). Both methods have their advantages. The advantages of open installation of internal sewerage:

  • Easy access to pipes during system operation.
  • The ability to quickly detect leaks and other defects in the sewer pipeline.
  • The ability to quickly disassemble and repair the system without disturbing the finishing of the room.
  • Easy access to the installation sites for inspections, necessary to remove blockages.

The disadvantages of this method include the unattractive appearance of the room from an aesthetic point of view, along the walls of which pipes stretch, as well as difficulties with cleaning. After all, you will have to clean out dust and dirt on the pipes themselves and under them. The advantages of laying sewerage in the floor:

  • Improvement interior design premises.
  • Reduced audibility when passing through drain pipes.

The disadvantage is the difficulty of repairing a system laid in this way.

Advice! If you plan to lay hidden sewerage pipelines, then the quality of pipes and fittings should be treated with special attention. And after the system is assembled, you should not waste time on carrying out hydraulic tests, allowing to identify possible defects assemblies.

Organization of sewerage removal from the house

When deciding how to properly lay a sewer system, you cannot ignore the organization of the pipe exiting the house. Here are the basic requirements for this job:


  • As a rule, if the construction of a sewer system is planned at the stage of designing a house, then it is left in the foundation in advance technological hole through which the pipe will pass. If such a hole has not been made, you will have to punch it in a ready-made foundation.
  • The angle at which the pipe is released should not be straight. At the junction of the internal and outer pipes it is necessary to install a pair of 135 degree bends. This will not only reduce the risk of blockages, but also reduce the degree of wear on the pipes, and also reduce the noise level during sewer operation.
  • The pipe through the foundation must pass through a metal sleeve, and the diameter of the sleeve must exceed the diameter of the pipe.

Advice! The hole made must be at least 50 mm larger than the diameter of the pipe.

  • After laying the pipe, the space between its outer wall and inner surface the sleeve is filled with soft insulation material. Such precautions help reduce the risk of sewerage freezing at the outlet site, and will also protect the pipe from deformation if shrinkage of the house occurs.

The difficult part is laying sewerage under the foundation. When working with slab foundations, punching a hole in the concrete to lay pipes under the slab will be difficult. To carry out this work, an inclined drilling method is used, during which a well is drilled for laying pipes, it goes to the lower edge of the foundation block.


External sewer networks

As a rule, the laying of sewer networks along the street is carried out using pipes made of PVC or polypropylene. A special feature of pipes intended for external networks is their orange color.

If a high load is expected on the pipes (deep burial, passage of the pipeline under the roadway), then you should choose two-layer pipes with a corrugated outer surface, made of polyethylene or polypropylene. Here are the basic rules for laying sewers:

  • The pipes are laid in trenches, which are previously dug by an excavator or manually.
  • The width of the trenches should be such that after laying the pipe, the installer can freely carry out work on joining the pipes while standing at the bottom of the trench. Minimum distance between internal slope trenches and a pipe with a cross-section of no more than 200 mm - 20 cm. When using pipes of larger diameter, this distance should be even greater.
  • Trenches are dug to ensure optimal slope pipes At the same time, the depth of sewer installation is not standardized, but is determined based on local conditions.
  • The bottom of the prepared trenches is thoroughly compacted; there should be no frozen areas, large stones or other solid inclusions. The stones must be removed, and the excavation site must be covered with soil and compacted.
  • Making a shock-absorbing cushion of sand under the pipes is mandatory for all types of soil.
  • Pipes are laid in prepared trenches along the entire length of the pipeline. Pipe connections begin to be made from the point where the sewage system exits the house.


  • To connect pipes, use silicone grease, but you can also use liquid soap. Lubricant is applied to the smooth end of the pipe, which is then inserted into the socket with a rubber collar.
  • If it is necessary to rotate the pipeline, smooth bends are used.
  • The external pipeline is connected to the septic tank chamber using a rubber seal, that is, the connection should not be rigid.
  • Backfilling of pipes is carried out first with sand, and then with soil previously removed from the trench.

Advice! A good decision can be trenchless sewer installation. Using such progressive methods, the owners laid pipelines without causing damage to green spaces and buildings. But in order for the sewer system to be built in this way, high-tech equipment will be required, the operation of which will be expensive.

So, the gasket sewer networks during the arrangement country house It can easily be done independently. Before performing work, a novice master should carefully study the requirements of construction and sanitary standards, since only if they are observed will the system work effectively without harming the environment.