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A plasterboard ceiling is an ideal design that creates flat surface, makes it smooth. Plasterboard construction is easy to install. Drywall will help hide all defects on the ceiling. Drywall is a material that creates a lot of options for ceiling design. Ceilings can be made single-level or multi-level. You can make such a ceiling yourself if you study the necessary instructions before doing so.

Before making a ceiling in a house or apartment, you need to understand its types. Each type has its own characteristics and characteristics. Each one is made using gypsum. It is important to determine the functional load of the ceiling, and only then choose the appropriate material.

All materials are united by properties that characterize gypsum material. They have smooth surface, they are easy to paint, they have sound-proofing and heat-insulating properties.

However, each type of material has its own characteristics. This affects the quality of the future ceiling and its properties. Sheet sizes different types may also change.

Types of drywall:

• GKL. Sheets lined with soft cardboard.
• GKLO. Fireproof sheets, which are used for equipment of technical rooms.
• GKLV. Sheets that easily withstand moisture.
• GVL. Sheets covered with fibers, which provide their hardness and strength.

The material should be selected depending on the type of room. It is important to take into account the temperature and humidity conditions in the room in which the drywall is installed. Its functionality and quality of the ceiling structure will depend on this.

DIY plasterboard ceiling: step-by-step instructions

You can make plasterboard ceilings with your own hands. Before the beginning repair work it's important to cook necessary materials and technical tools. Some of them will definitely be found at home. The missing ones can be bought or rented.

Masters advise you to carefully follow the instructions. Installing a plasterboard ceiling is not difficult if all actions are carried out harmoniously and consistently.

It is important to consider that drywall will take up space and reduce the distance between the floor and ceiling. For apartments with low ceiling this could be a problem. Please note that lighting fixtures will be installed on the drywall, which also take up additional space.

Step-by-step instruction:

• Determine the installation level of the plasterboard ceiling.
• Make markings so that you can attach the guide profiles.
• Drill holes at 30 cm intervals to attach the guide profiles.
• Attach the hangers, counting on a step of 60-70 cm.
• Insert the main profiles into the corresponding guides.
• Attach the profiles to the hangers and secure them.
• Attach secondary profiles to the main ones.
• Provide future wiring.
• Attach drywall to frame.

Installation of the frame must be carried out in accordance with the instructions. The reliability of the drywall fastening depends on the quality of the frame. After the frame has been installed, you can begin attaching the slabs.

DIY plasterboard ceiling installation

The procedure for attaching drywall sheets to a frame is quite complicated. It is best done with the help of a friend or family member. If there is no one to help, the procedure should be performed in several approaches.

An important technique to follow is to leave the drywall in the room for a few days before installing.

This approach will help the material adapt to temperature conditions and indoor humidity. Drywall joints must be on the profile. It is important to provide for possible expansion of the slabs, so you should not attach them end to end.

A simple way to install drywall:

• Cut the slabs using a hacksaw.
• Finish the edge using a plane.
• Cut holes for installation lighting fixtures.
• Finish the ceiling with plasterboard boards.
• Putty and level the joints.

Working on the ceiling requires responsible and careful execution. The appearance of the ceiling depends on how correctly the dimensions of the slabs were calculated. Their installation will be easy if you follow simple rules.

DIY plasterboard ceiling: practical tips

Installation of ceilings can be of the first and second levels. Using the second level you can create an original and unusual design ceiling. To do this, you should build a figured frame.

Before you begin installing the second-level ceiling, you should make a drawing according to which the installation will be carried out.

The height of the second level should be set off from the height of the first level. Then you can begin installing the guide profile. Then you should install the second level guides, correlating them with the ribs of the first level.

Construction of the second level ceiling:

• Bend the profile to the required radius sections.
• Route the wires under the lighting fixtures.
• Cut out a slab of the required size and shape and attach it to the lower level.

After installing the structure, it is necessary to install the lamps, then plaster its surface. The entire installation process must be precise and thoughtful. He may take a large number of time, so the master will need patience.

How to attach drywall to the ceiling

In order to attach drywall to the ceiling, you need to prepare two types of profiles: guides and ceiling. To install drywall, you will need a set of tools and materials: dowels, screws, bugs, various types of fasteners.

In order to start attaching plasterboard sheets, you need to install a guide profile.

The material should be measured to required sizes. For cutting the necessary parts use special metal scissors. The profile should be installed around the entire perimeter of the room. It is applied to the horizontal marking lines and the necessary holes are made for fastening using a drill.

How to attach drywall to the ceiling:

• Mark the axis of the ceiling profile.
• Fix the mark; it should be 10 cm further than the wall.
• Use a cord for accurate calculations.
• Measure the distance between the walls of the room.
• Mark the value on the ceiling profile, taking into account minus one centimeter.
• Install the profile into the guide.
• Make notes for the hangers.
• Install the cross profile.
• Attach plasterboard sheets.

Installing sheets requires care and takes quite a lot of time. Self-installation may seem quite labor intensive. Therefore, it is better to enlist the help of an assistant.

Do-it-yourself ordinary plasterboard ceiling

To make a regular plasterboard ceiling, you will need a set of necessary equipment and the availability of plasterboard sheets. Regular ceiling Easy to do if you follow the instructions. However, it should be understood that even easy installation takes a lot of time.

You can make a plasterboard ceiling if you first familiarize yourself with the process of installing frames and plasterboard on them.

An important criterion for successful installation is the presence necessary tools. They must be reliable and of high quality. The design can last for many years if it is carried out at the proper level.

Main stages of work:

• Ceiling markings;
• Frame installation;
• Attaching sheets to the frame;
• Ceiling putty.

Experienced craftsmen install structures quickly. A beginner will have to tinker a little longer. The ceiling design can be simple, then the best way its decoration will be painting. The ceiling can be made matte or glossy.

DIY plasterboard ceilings (video)

A plasterboard ceiling today is a fairly common way to decorate a room. This material has a number of advantages that make it popular in use. You can install plasterboard on the ceiling in several levels. You can complete the entire installation process yourself if you first read the instructions and follow them strictly.

Functionality and specifications make drywall this material the most popular among the rest of the variety of finishing methods offered by modern construction market. GCR is especially often used in the design of ceiling surfaces. It not only levels ceilings, but also allows you to implement unique design tasks in the form of complex multi-level structures. Even a single-level suspended ceiling made of plasterboard will look impressive if complemented with original lighting.

Most of the tools used in installation can replace each other. Therefore, when making a list, you should focus on those that you have at home. To install a suspended ceiling you will need:

• pencil, construction or laser level, upholstery cord - for marking;
• hammer drill or hammer drill for making holes for dowels and screws;
• screwdriver and bits of different diameters;
• a hacksaw and a construction knife.

• profile;
• drywall;
• fasteners;
• metal screws, 6 mm dowels.

For execution finishing drywall needed:

• serpyanka mesh;
• sealing tape;
• primer;
• putty;
• roller or brush;
• spatula (large and medium);
• fine-grained sandpaper;
• acrylic or water-based paint.

For installation suspension system Two types of profiles are used:

• guides. Installed along the walls along a horizontal line outlining the perimeter of the room, they are the basis of the entire suspended structure;
• ceiling They are made in the shape of the letter “C” and consist of metal strips 3-4 meters long.

The strength and reliability of a suspended ceiling does not depend on the shape of the profiles. But when choosing elements, you need to pay attention that they are all from the same manufacturer.

If you decide to install suspended plasterboard ceilings in the bathroom, purchase material marked moisture-resistant. GKL sheets of this type have a characteristic green tint. Special additives allow the material not to lose its original qualities throughout its entire service life, despite high level humidity and sudden temperature changes.

When finishing the ceiling surface in the living room or bedroom, you can buy regular gypsum board gray with sheet thickness 8-10 mm. Take sheets of greater thickness for self-installation the design doesn't make sense. The thicker the material, the more difficult it is to work with.

Fastening elements are the parts on which the suspended ceiling will be held.

To ensure reliable fixation of structural elements you will need:

• straight hangers. Their number is determined taking into account the distance between adjacent elements (no more than 60 cm);
• crabs are used to connect parts at right angles. The number of crabs is equal to the number of compounds formed with their help;
• Extensions are used to build up the profile.

Dowels 8x10 cm act as elements for fastening the suspensions. For connecting two pieces of the profile, as well as fixing the frame to concrete floor galvanized screws 4.2x5.1 cm are used. GKL sheets are attached to self-tapping screws 25 mm long.

Before we begin installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with our own hands, we mark the base of the future ceiling. To do this, we find the bottom corner in the room, and step down from it to the required distance. The minimum distance from the rough ceiling surface to the suspended structure must be at least 5 cm. You need to choose your distance taking into account the communications passing under the ceiling, which are supposed to be installed for lamps, which can be increased to 30 cm.

If the room is small, use a hydraulic level; in larger rooms, it is better to use a laser level for more accurate marking of lines. Once you find the dots in all four corners, connect them together with a horizontal line using upholstery cord.

The next step is marking for fastening the longitudinal profile. The elements should be located from each other at a distance that is a multiple of the width of the gypsum board. For example, plasterboard sheets are produced in a standard width of 120 cm. Thus, it is best to fasten the profiles at intervals of 60 cm from each other.

The distance between the suspensions on the ceiling is approximately 50 cm. At such intervals, marks are placed on the lines that were drawn to attach the longitudinal profile. The transverse profile is mounted in increments of 60 cm. Thus, the result is a cellular frame with rectangles correct form and side length 50x60 cm.

Installation of a suspended structure frame - step-by-step instructions

The frame for a gypsum board suspended ceiling is mounted as follows:

• On the line outlining the perimeter of the room, we drill holes in increments of 40 cm for dowels. Using dowels, we attach the UD profile to the wall;
• We install hangers that will hold the longitudinal ceiling profile. We fix each suspension to the base base using two dowel nails;
• Before proceeding with the installation of the ceiling CD profile, we check the evenness of the structure using a nylon thread stretched under the base of the suspended ceiling. We adjust the height of the frame with hangers;
• We first fasten the longitudinal profiles in the supporting profile located along the perimeter, after which we sequentially fasten the strips in the hangers;
• We fix the transverse elements of the frame in increments of 60 cm. Their ends will be attached to the wall profile, and along the length - to the longitudinal profiles using special connectors (“crabs”).

Important! Longitudinal and transverse ceiling profiles and gypsum board sheets should not fit tightly into the guide profiles. A small gap left during installation of the structure will serve as ventilation system

, ensuring free air circulation between the ceiling base and the suspension system.

How to properly lengthen a profile Often, suspended plasterboard ceilings have to be installed in large areas, which results in situations where the length of the CD profile is not enough, so it has to be increased. The simplest method, which is used by most professional builders

• – lengthening the profile using special single-level connectors. The algorithm of actions will be as follows:
• insert the connector inside the profile;
• we check the quality of the connection for rigidity and, if everything is in order, bend the edges of the profile using pliers;
• Now we strengthen the connection with metal screws. To do this, screw screws from the end of the profile.

Video for clarity

In addition to this universal and most common method, there are other methods by which the ceiling profile is lengthened. For example:

• extension using a cutter. This is an expensive tool that is used by professionals. The advantage of using it is that there is no need to additionally strengthen the connections with self-tapping screws;
• rack profiles in plasterboard construction sometimes they are connected using self-tapping screws. This method is not the most reliable and is used only in extreme cases when it is impossible to find a suitable connector or solve the problem in another way.

Before proceeding to the final stage of installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the gypsum plasterboard sheets must be given time to adapt to the climatic conditions of the room. To do this, they are placed in a room in a horizontal position and left for several days.

When covering the ceiling, proceed as follows:

• cut a chamfer from the ends of the gypsum board sheet using a knife at an angle of 45° by 5 mm;
• Start attaching the first sheet from any corner in the room with self-tapping screws 15 cm along the edges and 20 cm in the middle. Step back from the edge, at least 1.5 cm, so as not to damage the end of the gypsum board;
• leave 2-3 mm at the junction of two adjacent sheets free space, the same gap must be left at the junction of the gypsum board and the wall;
• Please note that the head of each self-tapping screw must be recessed into the material by 1-2 mm. You will subsequently fill the recess with putty;
• Proceeding in the same way, cover the entire frame with plasterboard. It is better to fasten the sheets in a checkerboard pattern so that they are offset relative to each other.

• UD profile. Standard length elements - 3-4 meters. For determining required quantity slats, divide the perimeter of the room by the length of one segment, round the resulting figure to a larger value;
• CD profile. In this case, the standard size of the gypsum board sheet is taken into account: 1200x2500x12.5 mm, 1200x3000x12.5 mm or 1200x2500x9.5 mm and the direction in which the ceiling profile will be installed. The best option is installation in width. With this method, there will be much less material waste.

For one sheet of gypsum plasterboard you will need three profiles, which must be placed in increments of 60 cm from each other. If the room where you are installing a plasterboard suspended ceiling is long and the profile needs to be increased, add the missing segment length to your calculations;

• pendants. The first element is attached at a distance of 30 cm from the wall surface, the next - in increments of 60 cm. Therefore, for one profile 3 meters long, you need to purchase five hangers;
• crossbars are usually made from CD profile scraps and installed every 50 cm;
• single-level crab-type connectors are also attached every 50 cm between the suspensions. Thus, one profile 2.5 m long will require five crabs.

Knowing the perimeter of the room, you can easily calculate the number of elements needed to install a suspended ceiling.

The profiles are fixed to the hangers with metal screws (also 2 pieces per hanger). To install one crab you will need 8 screws.

To calculate the number of sheets of drywall, you need to calculate the area of ​​the ceiling surface, dividing it by the same figure for one sheet.

Making a suspended ceiling from plasterboard with your own hands is only a small part of the finishing work. Seams and cracks must be sealed new design so that after painting the surface becomes perfectly smooth and even. It is at the junctions of the elements that unsightly gaps form, which can separate over time. To avoid such trouble, you need to quality work to strengthen them:

• dry sponge or paint brush clean the joints from dust;
• Apply a coat of primer to all connections deep penetration, covering a distance of 7-8 cm on both sides of the seam. Handle the ends of the sheets especially carefully;
• after the primer has dried, apply sickle tape to the joints;
• prepare a special solution for Knauf joints. Carefully apply the mixture to the joints and press with a spatula (until all voids are completely filled and the sickle mesh is closed);
• also seal the recesses from the screws with a small amount of compound;
• after drying, using fine-grained sandpaper, sand all putty areas, prime the entire suspended ceiling;
• if you are going to paint your structure, you need to putty the ceiling thin layer putty mixture, re-clean the surface after drying and prime. Only after such manipulations can you safely proceed to coloring.

As you can see, installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling with your own hands is not at all difficult. The main thing is to follow the sequence of steps, calculate and select materials correctly. Then the self-assembled structure will delight you with its appearance for a long time.

Video on topic

To bring to life their most daring ceiling design projects, designers use plasterboard. When installing plasterboard ceilings, it is necessary to create a central flat surface, which allows you to work with complex decorative elements. At the same time, the design is particularly durable and reliable.

The simplest installation of a suspended ceiling is to install a ceiling with one or two levels. The technique of creating a plasterboard ceiling from two levels will be discussed a little later. But you can get acquainted with some of the intricacies of installing a single-level plasterboard ceiling in the material “Do-it-yourself plasterboard ceiling in the kitchen: installation features.”

Marking ceiling mounts

According to the technology for installing a suspended plasterboard ceiling, the first thing to do is to apply markings:

• So, a perfectly straight horizontal line is applied to the walls, which will become a feature of the ceiling level. To do this, use a long building level or a water level (spirit level). The most acceptable length of the level is one and a half to two meters, and it should have four stripes in the viewing window - two on one side of the air bubble and two on the other side. If these requirements for the tool are met, marking accuracy is guaranteed.
• When completing the outline of a line, its end must converge with its beginning, while the slightest shift is not allowed. When marking in the corner of a room using building level

, you should adhere to the rules for working with a hydraulic level. To do this, when marks are applied to adjacent walls, the level should be placed both on the surface of these walls and in the corners of the spacers.

• Technology diagram for installing a plasterboard ceiling

After completing the creation of the horizontal ceiling level, the next step will be marking the ceiling with places for attaching direct hangers. As a result, a grid with cell dimensions of 600 x 600 mm should appear on the ceiling. Very often, at the edges of the room, the cell dimensions do not correspond to the specified 600 mm; in this case, their dimensions should be reduced and made symmetrical relative to the opposite sides.

Installation of profiles for fastening drywall

The next stage of installing a plasterboard ceiling involves covering the entire perimeter of the room with guide profiles (PN). The size of this profile is 2.7 x 2.7 cm. Of course, this process has its own peculiarities:

Installation of U-shaped hangers

Installation of U-shaped hangers is carried out according to pre-planned markings on rough ceiling. In this case, the interval should be within 70-100 cm, and the distance from the wall to the suspension on opposite walls should be the same.

To secure the hangers, do not use dowel nails for vertical fastening. It is recommended to use plastic dowels and screws. If the rough ceiling is made of concrete, optimal solution will become metal dowels designed for heavy structures. However, you should be careful, since frame dowels are also metal, but they are completely unsuitable for this purpose.

At the joints of the guide profiles, U-shaped hangers should be installed on both sides of the joint.

Elements for fastening the frame of a plasterboard structure to the ceiling

After completing the process of attaching U-shaped profiles, the next step is the installation of ceiling profiles (PP). Their parameters are 5.6 x 2.7 cm, sometimes sizes 6 x 2.7 cm are found.

Installation of ceiling profiles

The first thing you need to do when installing ceiling profiles is to fix the long profiles on the ceiling from wall to wall. Then install short transverse profiles between them. In this case, cross connections are made using special fastenings.

The PP is mounted from the wall and inserted into the guide profiles. Then they mark the horizontal level of the ceiling profiles (a level is used for this purpose), and then attach it using a double-sided connection to the U-shaped suspension. In this case, for such a connection, metal-to-metal screws (self-tapping screws) are used.

To make the job easier, you can use the following tips:

Most rational decision, will be the installation of the longest profiles parallel to the wall with the window. This way you can divert attention from minor defects at the junction of plasterboard sheets that will be attached in the direction natural light from the window.

Fastening drywall to the frame

A solid sheet of drywall (GKL) is attached transversely to long guide profiles.

The sheets are connected in the central part of the profile. For high-quality installation of gypsum boards on profiles, it is recommended to work with a partner. To attach the sheets to the profile, self-tapping screws are used, and the screw is slightly “recessed” into the sheet of drywall, about two to three millimeters. The distance between the screws should be approximately 250-300 mm, and from the corners of the drywall - 30-40 mm.

In addition, screws should begin to be fastened no closer than 10-15mm from the edge of the drywall. When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should be extremely careful and avoid chipping the edge of the sheet. However, if such a problem does occur, it is necessary to remove the screw and screw in a new one at a distance of 30-40 mm from the place of the chip.

When attaching plasterboard sheets to the ceiling, you must remember the following nuances:

• When installing sheets of drywall, remember that there is a narrow profile in the corners of the room, and this can complicate the installation process;
• For a beautiful aesthetic appearance of a plasterboard ceiling, you should adhere to simple rule: fewer edges – more beautiful view;
• When screwing in self-tapping screws, you should adhere to the same depth of “recession” at all fastening points. This accuracy will come in handy later, at the stage of painting works, it will allow them to be carried out as efficiently as possible;
• To avoid occurrence unpleasant situations, such as height differences at the junctions of sheets, the best option will be the use of products from one manufacturer (for example, Knauf).

Technology for cutting plasterboard sheets and painting work

To mark plasterboard sheets, it is used aluminum rule, which should be thoroughly cleaned of all kinds of contaminants. If such a tool is not available, you can use a flat rack.

• Markings are made on the sheet; the drywall will be cut according to it.
• Next, an incision is made with a depth of 2-4 mm according to the rule (or strip). To do this, use a sharp construction knife so that the line is smooth and uninterrupted.
• After which, a sheet of drywall is placed on the edge of the table and, with the help of a careful but confident movement, breaks. If the cut is made correctly, the plasterboard sheet will break smoothly.

Instructions for cutting drywall

• There will be cardboard on the back side of the sheet; it can be cut off using construction knife.
• To smooth the cut edge, you can use a plane or No. 4 or No. 6 sandpaper.

To paint a plasterboard ceiling (to learn about the rules for painting, read: How to paint a ceiling in a kitchen: choosing paint and work procedure), you must use a paint bandage and a painting net, which are used for gluing the joints between the plasterboard and the wall and the joints.

The process of marking the ceiling for placement spotlights should be performed before the last application of paint. This procedure will prevent stains and help maintain visibility of the light point markers. The last layer of paint is applied towards the strongest stream of light.

Technology: for painting a plasterboard suspended ceiling, the optimal solution is to use a roller; this will save paint and allow you to create a uniform coating

The above rules for the technology of creating suspended ceilings from plasterboard will allow high-quality installation on our own. However, this can only be achieved if all instructions and recommendations are strictly followed. Otherwise, you risk getting a crooked and unreliable ceiling that will need to be redone.

With the help of drywall you can realize a variety of design ideas. Using built-in LED lights on the ceiling, performing several levels and complementing everything with side lighting - these are all the advantages of this type of design. Suspended ceiling It is possible to make it from plasterboard yourself, although this process is not entirely simple.

But, having carefully studied all the recommendations of specialists and applied them in practice, the work will progress much easier and simpler. For curved figures on a plasterboard ceiling, special patterns are needed to cut out the parts. In this case, you have to bend the sheets and create unusual profiles. All these processes are feasible.

By following the instructions, it is possible to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands

Restrictions on the use of material

In order for the ceiling to be of high quality, it is necessary to purchase suitable plasterboard sheets. In a room where high humidity is not present all the time (bathrooms, kitchens, etc.), in principle, such material can be used. But, in other cases, plasterboard sheets must be moisture-resistant, with a vapor-proof coating. That's why paint material, used to cover sheets, must create a waterproof film.

Usage plasterboard sheet for the ceiling is not recommended in rooms where there is no heating. In this case, condensation may form on the surface, and this leads to deformation of the material. It is also risky to install drywall in city apartments, as there is a risk of flooding, after which the ceiling may simply collapse.

If your upstairs neighbors have automatic system to shut off the water supply, then it is advisable to use this installation method.

In general, we can say that plasterboard ceilings are common in apartments. The main thing is that the height of the room allows this, since suspended structures significantly reduce this value. If the room has a height of less than 2 m 40 cm, then you should not make such a ceiling. This value may also decrease due to built-in lamps or other utilities. But, it is possible to use special lighting devices: you can use flat overhead ones, saving about 5 cm or only one chandelier.

Calculation of material and components of the ceiling

To do frame structure You must first complete a drawing for the ceiling. Mark all the dimensions of the room on it, which will help significantly reduce the cost of purchased Construction Materials. Calculate the number of profiles for the manufacture of the frame, fasteners, and drywall.

Also, a drawn diagram of the ceiling will help you decide on configurations and the correct calculation of everything needed for installation.

Necessary materials for construction

Before you start installing drywall on the ceiling, you need to calculate how much material is needed, taking into account its different sizes. This will allow you to make fewer pieces and trims and optimally place the material on the surface. Standard sizes sheets are as follows: thickness from 9.5 mm to 14 mm, and length from 120 to 250 mm.

When placing sheets of plasterboard on the ceiling, it is important to adhere to the following recommendation: do not match the seams and do not place them on the same line; they must be offset by at least 50 cm. This rule applies to both longitudinal and transverse connections. Docking should only be done on a metal profile, and the seam should be in the middle.

The sheet is secured to the CD profile with screws; they should be placed at a distance of 1.5 cm from the edge of the drywall sheet.

The transverse seams must coincide with additional elements main profiles that serve as additional reinforcement of the frame. The step should be observed at intervals of 20 cm. Having found out the exact length of the structure and installed profiles (together with transverse ones), you can calculate the number of screws by multiplying it by 5.

Tools for work

Having everything necessary to complete the process speeds up the work and also ensures high-quality installation and further finishing of the ceiling. What you need to have:

• assembly scissors for metal;
• grinder for working with metal profiles during the construction of the frame;
• fine-toothed hacksaw blade or special tool to cut sheets of drywall;
• screwdriver;
• perforator;
• sandpaper or grater to smooth the end of the cut parts;
• special needle roller for perforation;
• yardstick;
• construction square;
• laser level, and in its absence, painted thread for marking the line;
• water level at least 2 m 50 cm long;
• long rule;
• serpyanka for processing seams;
• masking tape.

Ceiling markings

This process is very responsible, since it depends on appearance the surface to be installed and the strength of the structure itself. Without following all the rules, a plasterboard ceiling may not be of high quality and will not last long. Rules quality installation is to inspect the surface before starting the work process for height differences.

A level that needs to be used to set the lowest point on the wall will help you do this.

Proceed with ceiling marking, which includes the following processes:

1. Set a line where the initial profile will be located. In this case, it is worth considering the height if there is an intention to hide it under the structure electric wires or lighting fixtures. This can be a distance from 7 to 15 cm.
2. Make a mark on a nearby wall with a marker or pencil.
3. Next, similar lines are marked on other walls using a water level.
4. After this, all lines should be connected into one continuous line. If all the markings are made correctly, the straight line will coincide.

Then you need to make markings where the supporting guides for the suspended ceiling will be located:

1. Draw a line along the ceiling parallel to each other at a distance of 1250 mm (this is half a plasterboard sheet).
2. These lines are a guide for placing hangers on special metal anchors (wedges or dowels).
3. The installed profiles should run both along the edges of the sheet and in the middle. When marking is carried out, this fact must be taken into account.

The first stage of installation of the ceiling frame

Purchase a narrow metal profile UD-27 and attach it around the entire perimeter of the room. It will serve as guide profiles and hold the CD strips that will be inserted into it.

Also needed for strong fastening of the dowel profile are 5 cm long if the surface is made of heavy material, and also 9 cm if there is a porous surface. The interval for placing fasteners is 35 – 40 cm.

You need to hide everything behind a suspended ceiling engineering Communication. Then check its performance and reliability under load.

From metal profiles CD-6/27 3 m or 4 m long, a suspended lathing is created. When installing, an interval of 60 cm is maintained between them, and the length should be a couple of centimeters less than the room to ensure thermal expansion. First, the first profile is mounted on the ceiling close to the wall, and it is inserted along the length into the UD. They are located at a distance of 60 cm from each other. Transverse inserts are made from the same material to make the structure more rigid. The distance between these profiles is also maintained at 60 cm; they are fastened using self-tapping screws. This way the drywall sheets will hold more firmly.

Second stage of installation

To avoid problems with the suspensions, it is important to check how much overlap is inside. If it is hollow, then you should use dowels of a larger diameter (12 mm) and fasten them with thick screws. In the presence of wooden surface Fasteners with a length of at least 60 mm must be used.

CD profiles are suspended on perforated hangers. They have different sizes and it is necessary to select the most optimal option for each individual case. The remaining excess length should be folded. They are placed at intervals of 1 m, mounted on dowels in ceiling. Fasteners must be 6 mm in diameter and 50 mm long, 2 pcs per hanger.

The connecting parts between the longitudinal profiles and cross members are elements called “crabs”. They perfectly fix intersecting profiles at the same level. Self-tapping screws for fastening CD profiles together with hangers have a length of 10 mm. Their number must be calculated in this way: for each suspension you need 2 pieces, and add 4 more pieces. for each cross member.

In order for the plasterboard ceiling to be even between the profiles, it is best to stretch a cord or fishing line in an amount of 3 to 5 pieces, depending on the size of the room. It is for them that you need to set the CD profile. Secure the cords with screws, attaching them to the end of the UD strip. Place small washers 1 or 2 mm high under them. This is necessary to create a gap between the fishing line and the profile.

Once secured, the CD profile should not touch the cord.

Material cutting and installation

To properly cut a sheet for a plasterboard ceiling you must have:

• long rail;
• marker or pencil;
• sharp knife;
• roulette

It’s not difficult to complete this process; the main thing is to do everything step by step:

1. Draw a line on the sheet and cut the cardboard layer with a knife strictly along it.
2. Break the material along the line and then cut the cardboard from reverse side leaf.
3. Sand the unevenness at the end with sandpaper.
4. It turns out two sheets of plasterboard with smooth edges.

When joining sheets, remove a 1 cm wide chamfer at an angle of 45 degrees.

If you need to make a cut from the edge, you must first put a mark on the cardboard and, using a jigsaw or hacksaw, make a cut in several places in the direction from the edge. Break a piece of drywall and outside cut the paper. When making a hole inside a sheet, you need to make a cut on three sides, and then break off the remaining part or saw through all four sides.

Ready ceiling frame Apply prepared pieces of a certain size, so that one edge is pressed tightly against the wall. They are fixed to the profiles with self-tapping screws. They need to be screwed in so that the cap goes in a little and does not stick out. The interval between fasteners should be 20-25 cm. Continue this process until the entire ceiling is sewn up.

Puttying the drywall surface

Completing the installation of drywall on the profiles is not the last step in this work. After this, the sheets installed on the ceiling must be primed, puttied and painted. First, you need to fill the joints between the pieces of drywall with a special putty so that the ceiling becomes monolithic and smooth. Painting mesh or serpyanka is used at the joints so that cracks do not appear in this place later. First, the seam is filled 60% with putty, then the serpyanka is laid and covered again ready-made mixture. The mesh should be inside; this is the only way it will hold the solution tightly and prevent cracks.

The areas where the screws are located are also closed in order to veil the resulting holes. To do this, use a small spatula with putty to move it in different directions to hide the indentations. After all, if you don’t do this after applying the first layer of the mixture, it will retract as it dries and you’ll end up with a hole.

After drying, the putty areas must be sanded using a trowel mesh or fine-grained sandpaper.

Apply a layer of primer to a flat, dry surface and allow time to dry. Then cover the entire ceiling in several layers with putty mixture. Allow time for complete drying each time to ensure the surface is smooth and beautiful. Carefully inspect the entire ceiling for any sagging or unevenness. If any defects are found, the ceiling must be cleaned so that it is perfectly smooth and without flaws. Now you can paint.

When installing the ceiling, you should pay attention to the following important points:

• the room temperature during operation should not be lower than +15 degrees;
• the purchased sheets must be brought indoors and let them lie in a horizontal position for some time to acclimatize;
• fasten the screws strictly at 90 degrees and deepen them a few millimeters so that they do not protrude on the surface of the ceiling.

Drywall is finishing material, consisting of two layers of thick cardboard and a core filled with gypsum mixed with other fillers. Combination of lightness and resistance to external influences makes the material convenient for finishing ceilings. A classic single-level plasterboard ceiling is relatively easy to make; it requires the participation of at least two people and minimal knowledge of construction technologies.

Advantages and disadvantages

1. Versatility: the base obtained from this material can be used Finishing work different directions.
2. Decent heat and sound insulation, the ability to improve these characteristics with additional extensions.
3. Easy to install lighting fixtures.
4. Wires and other communication lines and infrastructure are easily hidden under such a ceiling.

It is worth considering some of the difficulties that will haunt a person working with such material.

1. There is a need for high-quality processing seams.
2. It is difficult to carry out some of the work alone without experience; the help of another person will be useful.
3. Even small errors in calculations can lead to cracks and deformation of the structure.
4. The ceiling loses some of its height.

Necessary materials

Drywall (gypsum plasterboard) and metal profiles are the main materials that are used to finish the ceiling using the method described in the article. They have a number of varieties, their choice depends on the specific needs of the owner of the house and the characteristics of the room.

Table No. 1. Types of drywall used in finishing residential premises.

The width of plasterboard is standardized and is 120 cm. The length varies between 200-300 cm, that is, there is material on the market with three different characteristics length. Thickness varies between 6.5 mm and 12.5 mm.

Drywall also differs in the type of edge. It can be straight, thin, rounded, semicircular.

Drywall prices

drywall

The ceiling frame is made up of two types of metal profiles and additional fasteners.

Table No. 2. Materials for installation of plasterboard ceiling.

The following will be useful to complete the work: auxiliary materials and tools:

Calculations and markings

First, look for the lowest angle of the draft ceiling in the room. From this angle, the distance at which the gypsum board ceiling will be located is marked. Minimum distance between rough and plasterboard ceilings is equal to 5 cm, but if additional communications, ventilation, and the bases of heavy lighting fixtures run in the interceiling space, then the distance can increase to 10-30 cm.

Laser level prices

laser level

From the point marked in the corner, using a level, draw a line of the same height along the perimeter of the room. For small rooms water or bubble level, but in spacious rooms their use may lead to errors, so it is better to use laser level. The line is marked using a paint cord: it is pulled between two points at the corners of the wall and released, leaving a bright straight line on the surface.

Next, the location for attaching the longitudinal profiles is marked on the rough ceiling. The distance between them should be a multiple of the width of the gypsum board. Since its width is standardized and is 120 cm, then the best option profiles will be fastened every 40 cm: two profiles along the edges of the plasterboard sheet and one in its center. On the lines drawn along the length of the ceiling, the places where the suspensions are attached are marked at intervals of 40-50 centimeters.

The drywall is also marked in accordance with the accepted plan for its installation: whether it will be cut or not, whether it will be laid longitudinally or transversely, etc.

Creating a wireframe

Holes are drilled along a line drawn along the perimeter in increments of no more than 40 cm. The UD profile is brought to the wall and attached to it using dowels and nails.

Then the hangers are installed. They secure only the main longitudinal ceiling profiles, and for cross members Not needed. Each suspension is fastened to the ceiling using two dowel-nails (if, when drilling the suspension, a void is found in the slab, then for reliable fixation, a wedge anchor is used, which is driven in with a hammer).

Important! The dowels for fastening the suspensions must have as much space as possible, otherwise they will not be securely fastened to the ceiling concrete and will fall into its empty spaces.

Before installing ceiling CD profiles, you need to determine the level horizontal plane over the entire work area. This is done using stretched nylon threads. To ensure that the thread is tensioned reliably and does not sag, you can hook it with hanger fasteners, which for this purpose are bent upward and thereby maintain its (thread) tension.

The longitudinal CD profile is first attached between the opposite UD structures (inserted into their grooves). Next, it is sequentially fixed into suspensions. The “whiskers” of the suspensions are lowered, wrap around the profile and are screwed with small self-tapping screws.

Transverse profiles are located at a distance of 50-60 cm from each other. They are attached at their ends to the UD structure, and along their length they are secured with longitudinal profiles using single-level connectors. The connectors are inserted into each joint of the longitudinal and transverse profiles, grasp the joints and are screwed on all sides using self-tapping screws.

Installation of transverse profiles may not be necessary in cases where the ceiling is installed in a very small room - for example, in a combined bathroom or a small corridor.

On a note! CD profiles and drywall should not fit end-to-end into UD profiles. It is necessary to leave a small gap between the structures to ensure air exchange between the main space of the room and the ceiling space. Also, these gaps will compensate for temperature deformation of the metal and plasterboard sheets.

The resulting frame must be pulled down on each side. This will stretch all the hangers to their full length and allow you to find irregularities in the plane of the frame.

Working with drywall

Before installing drywall, the above-ceiling space is finalized. All wires are placed in corrugated tubes, the contours of the installation of lighting fixtures are outlined and holes for them are cut out in the drywall, ventilation is carried out and insulation is laid. Below is an algorithm of actions and recommendations for installing gypsum boards.

Table No. 3. Installation of drywall sheets step by step.

Finishing work

After covering the entire frame with plasterboard, the structure is left to stand for two days. This is necessary for the material to acquire the humidity and temperature of the room. After this period, finishing work can be carried out.

It is necessary to apply a primer to the sheets, which will give them additional protection from moisture. It is important to ensure that the primer penetrates all joints, as they will be the most vulnerabilities when using the ceiling.

Using a spatula, the seams between the sheets are puttied, for which a quick-drying compound is often used. gypsum mixture(“Knauf Fugenfüller” or its analogues). IN mandatory Reinforcing mesh must be glued to all joints. If there are two factory edges at the junction, then a reinforcing mesh 80-100 mm wide is used. If one or both edges of the drywall are chamfered at an angle of 45 degrees, then the mesh is cut lengthwise so that it does not go beyond the plane, or a mesh of standard width is used, but then you will have to putty the entire surface of the drywall to a thickness of 1-2 mm more.

Prices for gypsum mixtures

gypsum mixtures

Note! The mesh should always be between the layers of putty. Most often, such nets in rolls have an adhesive base: it is needed for ease of storage and use. You cannot stick mesh onto the joints and apply putty on top. First, 60% of the putty is applied, then the mesh is embedded in the mixture, smoothed, and the rest of the recess is filled.

Recesses from screws. The same “Fugenfüller” is used to seal the recesses from the screws. Use a narrow spatula (no more than 60-80 mm) to apply it in several directions so that the putty fills the entire recess. When the Fugenfüller dries, it will retract - this is normal. The recesses can already be sealed with regular finishing putty (Knauf Satengips, Knauf Finish, etc.).

After drying, apply finishing putty. Here you can use a larger tool and putty, which has a longer drying time and increases the strength of the joint. The heads of the self-tapping screws are also filled with putty solution.

At the end, all irregularities are smoothed out using sandpaper.

If the design layout requires it, after puttying and leveling the surface, you can begin painting, whitewashing or applying wallpaper to the ceiling. If you plan to install multi-level ceiling, then you can begin to arrange its subsequent levels.

Video - How to make a plasterboard ceiling with your own hands