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Considered to be quite unpretentious garden plants, she is also struck various diseases and pests. Viral and fungal diseases are very dangerous for these flowers, from which there is practically no cure. effective measures, and among the pests of chrysanthemums there are only a few insects (one of which is an annoyance to almost everyone), for the control of which various chemical substances and drugs. Viral diseases cause discoloration and browning of leaves, yellowing of veins on leaf blades, variegated petals, abnormalities in bush development, and deformation of buds. Unfortunately, plant bushes affected by certain diseases have to be completely removed from the summer cottage.

The most harmful include:

Powdery mildew

A powdery coating appears on all organs of diseased flowers.

Prevention and treatment

We treat chrysanthemums with Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B. In case of extensive damage to the bushes, we treat them with Topaz, Strobe, Skor, Chistotsvet, Thiovit Jet. As preventive measures We use a selection of flower varieties that are most resistant to this disease, regular application of phosphorus-potassium fertilizers to the soil, root watering of bushes, periodic removal of lower leaves and various plant residues.

Soft rot

Some parts of chrysanthemums fade. At the same time, the stems of the plant turn black and become soft. They easily break along the shoot. The vessels inside the stems acquire a brownish tint. This disease Most often it affects bushes located in greenhouses or greenhouses in the summer.

Control measures

Infected flower specimens are immediately destroyed. We water the remaining bushes to the very roots with Fitosporin-M or Plirin-B.

Bacterial cancer

Tumors of varying sizes appear on stems and foliage.

Fighting methods

We burn specimens infected with the disease.

Bacteriosis

The causative agent of this plant disease is a soil bacterium that causes the formation of growths at the root neck of the bush that resemble in shape cauliflower. Chrysanthemum stems become fleshy and ugly.

How to fight

The resulting tumors are removed.

Stem rot

Affected chrysanthemums wither and Bottom part The stems acquire a brownish-black tint. Then the rot spreads to the lower leaves.

Prevention and control

We burn infected specimens. We treat the remaining plants with Baktofit, Fongilan or Trichodermin. To prevent disease, we provide plantings with good drainage so that the water in the place where they grow does not stagnate.

Fomoz

The leaves become faded yellow and then acquire a brownish tint.

Ways to fight

We burn infected specimens.

Verticillium wilt

Chrysanthemum leaves wither and dry out. At the same time, they do not fall off, but remain on the shoot.

Prevention and control methods

We burn infected flower specimens. In order to prevent the disease, we treat the bushes with Alirin-B and Gamair.

White rot

Chrysanthemums wither, and brownish spots appear on their stems. Inside the shoots you can find white mycelium resembling felt. Black sclerotia are visible in it.

Control measures

We burn the specimens infected with the disease, and treat the remaining ones with Rovral.

Gray rot

This disease affects flowers in the fall, in humid and warm weather. Their petals become covered with brown spots, and the buds begin to rot from the base. All plant tissues soften and acquire a watery structure. In humid weather, a gray coating of mold appears on them.

How to fight

We cut out the dying parts of the chrysanthemums. We treat the bushes with such preparations as Skor, Fundazol, Ronilan, Rovral, Chistotsvet.

Ascochyta blight

Dark brown or almost black spots quickly spread on all parts of the flower. Young stems wither and the chrysanthemum gradually dies.

Fighting methods

We burn infected plant specimens.

Septoria spot

Grayish round spots appear on the foliage of chrysanthemums.

Ways to fight

We burn infected specimens. To prevent the occurrence of the disease, we treat the plants with copper sulfate, Ditan Ultra, and copper oxychloride.

White rust

Convex spots of a light shade form on the upper part of the leaf blade of the plant. Waxy sporangia appear at the bottom of the leaf in the shape of a circle. Gradually they acquire a cinnamon tint.

Means of struggle

We destroy leaves infected with the disease. We treat flowers with various preparations alternately, since this fungal disease adapts to various chemicals. We spray chrysanthemums with copper oxychloride, Abiga-Pik.

Ramulariasis

Yellowish or brownish spots appear on the leaf blades.

Control measures

We burn infected specimens. We treat the remaining bushes with Rovral or Saprol.

Description of the signs of chrysanthemum pests and their control

Nematodes

Light areas appear on the leaves. Then sheet plates acquire a dark brown tint. The foliage, starting from the bottom of the stem, turns black and dries out. Pests also attack chrysanthemum buds.

Ways to fight

We disinfect the soil with formaldehyde and carbothione. We keep the bushes affected by nematodes in hot water (55° C) for 5 minutes. We also treat all equipment with formaldehyde. We plant healthy specimens only in disinfected soil.

Spider mite

These pests attack chrysanthemum leaves from the underside. They suck out the sap of the plant. At the same time, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. At the bottom of the leaf blade there is a thin web.

Control measures

On particularly hot days, spray the plants with water. If the bushes are slightly damaged, we treat them soap solution. If the pests have already multiplied in large quantities, we treat chrysanthemums with such preparations as Akarin, Molniya, Fitoverm, Vertimek.

Aphid

This pest affects all parts of the plant: young shoots, leaves, buds. Damaged tissues become deformed and flowers do not bloom.

Fighting methods

We spray chrysanthemums with 0.1% karbofos with potassium green soap (0.5%), Antitlin, Biotlin, Actellik, Akarin, Fitoverm, Decis, Aktara, Iskra, Komandor, Zubr.

Field/meadow bug

These small greenish insects (6 mm) feed on the sap of chrysanthemums, which causes the leaf blades to curl. On affected flowers, the buds either do not bloom or the inflorescences become ugly.

How to fight

We remove small colonies of pests along with the affected shoots. On a cool morning, while the bugs are inactive, we spray the chrysanthemums with 0.1% karbofos with green potassium soap (0.5%), Actellik or Fufanon.

Western flower thrips

First, yellowish spots appear on various plants, stems and peduncles begin to deform and die over time. Flower petals turn brown at the edges, and pests quickly multiply in the area where the stamens are located.

Means of struggle

Control measures: we destroy specimens infected with pests. We spray the remaining chrysanthemum bushes with Actellik, Fufanon, Aktara, Fitoverm, Iskra, Tanrek. Repeat the treatment after 5 days

Viruses. Viral diseases of chrysanthemum cause discoloration of leaves, yellowing of leaf veins, browning of leaves, growth abnormalities, variegation, and deformation of flowers.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are removed. Viral diseases are often transmitted by cicadas.

Soft rot. Some plants wither. They have black stems that are soft to the touch and often break lengthwise. The vessels of the stems are colored brown. This disease most often affects chrysanthemums that are kept under film in the summer.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are immediately destroyed. Avoid high humidity at high temperatures. Sprinkle the remaining plants under the roots with biological preparations Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B.

Bacterial cancer. Tumors form on the stems, and less often on the leaves.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are immediately destroyed.

Bacteriosis. Cauliflower-like growths form on the root collar. The shoots are fleshy, with deformed leaves.
Control and prevention measures: The tumors are removed. The causative agent is a soil bacterium.

Bacterial burn of lilac. The leaves become covered with rapidly growing black-brown spots. They often appear only in late summer or even autumn, but in warm, damp weather the disease can cause serious damage to plantings.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are promptly removed.

Fomoz. The leaves gradually fade, turn yellow and finally turn brown from bottom to top.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are destroyed, and varieties more resistant to Phoma blight are planted. Do not plant chrysanthemums in areas where there have been attacks.

Stem rot. Plants wither, the base of the stem is brown or black. From the root collar, rot spreads to the lower leaves. The stem is brown on the inside.
Control and prevention measures: Sick plants are destroyed. Provide good drainage so that water does not stagnate in the soil. If there is a threat of stem rot, plantings are treated with Baktofit, Trichodermin or Fongilan.

White rot. Plants wither, brown spots form on the stems, inside there is white felt mycelium with black vegetative bodies - sclerotia.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are removed. Mass plantings are treated with Rovral.

Verticillium wilt. The leaves wither, then dry up and remain hanging on the stem. Brown vessels are visible on the cut of the stem. The roots are not damaged.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are destroyed. Verticillium-prone plants are no longer planted at the site of fallouts. For prevention, treat plants with Alirin-B and Gamair.

Ascochyta rot. Gray-brown or black spots of rot appear very quickly on flowers, leaves and stems. The shoots located above wither. Affected plants soon die.
Control and prevention measures: Carefully inspect the seedlings for damage. Sick plants are destroyed. Avoid planting chrysanthemums on lunge areas.

Powdery mildew. A white powdery coating forms on the leaves above and below, as well as on the petioles. The leaves become deformed and the buds dry out. The leaf tissue under the coating is brown in color.
Control and prevention measures: Choose varieties that are resistant to powdery mildew. For mild damage, you can try the biological fungicides Fitosporin-M, Alirin-B. In case of severe damage, treat with Topaz, Strobi, Thiovit Jet, Skor, Chistotsvet (preparations that are not specialized for chrysanthemums should be used with caution).

Downy mildew. Most often it affects chrysanthemums of the genus Argyranthemum. The leaves have whitish spots on top and dirty spots on the bottom. white coating sporangia.
Control and prevention measures: In greenhouses, reduce air humidity, prevent night dew, and moisten foliage less frequently. In the garden, do not plant too densely so that the plants are ventilated.
Diseased parts of plants are removed if possible. To prevent the spread of the disease, plants are sprayed several times with Ridomil Gold or Previkur.

Gray rot. At first, the chrysanthemum petals become covered with brown specks, and the flowers rot from the base. The plant tissues become soft and watery, and with high air humidity, a gray moldy coating appears. It occurs most often in autumn, during warm and damp weather.
Control and prevention measures: Remove old leaves and dying plant tissue. Keep plantings as dry as possible, especially in winter. Ventilate to reduce air humidity to prevent dew from falling at night. Treat with drugs Skor, Chistotsvet, Fundazol, Rovral, Ronilan, Euparen (preparations that are not specialized for chrysanthemums must be used with caution).

Ramulariasis. Light yellow or brownish spots form on the leaves. Most often it affects Argyranthemum.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are destroyed, the rest are urgently dried. Mass plantings for prevention are alternately treated with Saprol and Rovral.

Septoria leaf spot. Round, clearly defined dark gray or black spots form on the leaves.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are removed. Do not plant too closely, especially large-leaved varieties; in bad weather, for prevention, treat with copper oxychloride, copper sulfate Saprol New or Ditan Ultra.

White rust of chrysanthemums. Convex light spots appear on the leaves on top, and white, waxy sporangia arranged in circles appear below. Mature sporangia are cinnamon-colored.
Control and prevention measures: Don't plant too closely. Affected leaves are removed; To improve air circulation, the lower leaves are also torn off. This fungus quickly adapts to chemicals, so the preparations need to be changed, treated with Copper Oxide, Abiga-Peak, etc.

Spider mite. Yellowish specks appear on the leaves, later - extensive discolored and dried areas. Small (0.2-0.5 mm) mites live on the underside of leaves among the thinnest webs.
Control and prevention measures: Promotes the appearance of ticks heat and dry air. For mild damage, you can treat the plants with soap or mineral oil. If severe, treat with Fitoverm, Akarin, Vertimek, Molniya, etc.

South American leaf miner. Small yellow punctures appear on the leaves, and later light tunnels of pests appear. Dark brown miner pupae lie on the leaves and then fall to the ground.
Control and prevention measures: When purchasing seedlings, carefully inspect the plants for pests. Affected plants are immediately removed before the insects emerge from the pupae.

Aphids. The leaves curl, turn yellow, and when severely infested, sticky secretions of aphids are visible on them.
Control and prevention measures: Single colonies of aphids are cut off along with the leaves or washed off with water. They are treated with Antitlin, Tobacco dust, Actellik, Fitoverm, Akarin, Aktara, Decis, Tanrek, Iskra, Zubr, Biotlin, Komandor, etc.

Bedbugs. Small yellow spots appear on the leaves and petals, which later turn brown - places where bedbugs feed. With further growth, the leaves tear, wrinkle, and become holey.
Control and prevention measures: Chemicals It is advisable to use only in case of severe damage in mass plantings or when there is a high pressure of insects from outside, from the fields. On personal plot plants are treated with potassium soap, as well as with the preparations Actellik, Karbofos, Fufanon. The treatment is carried out on a cool morning, when the bugs are still inactive.

Chrysanthemum gall gnat. With severe damage, shoots and peduncles become deformed. On the leaves, less often on the petioles, oval pubescent galls 2-3 mm long are visible. They contain orange larvae.
Control and prevention measures: The affected parts of the plants are removed.

Western flower thrips. Young leaves are deformed, the growing point is curved. Flowers with spots; the petals turn brown at the edges. Thrips actively reproduce in flowers, especially in the area of ​​the stamens.

Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are destroyed. For prevention, sticky blue traps are hung in greenhouses. This is especially important for young plants, since even single insects can damage them. Early and repeated application of insecticides is necessary to control thrips. Spray with the preparations Aktara, Aktellik, Fufanon, Fitoverm, Tanrek, Iskra, etc. After 4-5 days, the treatment is repeated, since insecticides do not act on all stages of development of these insects.

Leaf nematodes. Yellow, later turning brown angular spots, clearly separated by veins, spread along the leaves from bottom to top. Nematodes live inside the leaves, and with frequent spraying they quickly spread along the leaves and throughout the plant.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are removed, the rest are transferred to drier conditions. Do not spray foliage. Do not use diseased plants for propagation.

Symphila. Eats holes in the lower leaf-shaped segments at ground level. Secondary fungal infections occur in the dying tissue at the edges of the holes. On the damaged parts of the plant, oblong centipedes about 5 mm long, with twelve pairs of legs and long antennae are visible.
Control and prevention measures: Affected plants are removed. Spraying with Aktara makes sense only on young plants.

DISEASES OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS:

Gray rot - This fungal disease affects all above-ground parts of chrysanthemums. Light-colored flowers appear on the inflorescences brown spots, which grow quickly, and the inflorescences turn into a rotting mass. The causes of the disease are thickened plantings, insufficient air circulation, excess nitrogen fertilizers, increased soil acidity, waterlogging of the soil (excessive watering). For prevention purposes, they try to plant chrysanthemum bushes in a bright, sunny place, at a sufficient distance to ensure normal air circulation. If necessary, the soil in the planting areas is deoxidized with ash or slaked lime. To prevent the disease, treatments with copper-containing preparations are carried out every 14 days. If you find sufficiently severe damage to the bushes, then the damaged plants are removed and burned.

Powdery mildew - A whitish coating appears on the leaves, stems and buds, under which the damaged tissues dry out. This leads to oppression of the plant. The cause of the disease may be hot weather with heavy dew, excess nitrogen fertilizers and calcium deficiency in the soil. In most cases, the appearance of powdery mildew is due to a varietal characteristic, i.e. there are varieties that are more or less resistant to this disease, so I would recommend purchasing varieties that are not affected powdery mildew. For prevention purposes, plants are sprayed with copper-soap liquid (20-25g copper sulfate, 200g green soap per 10l of water)

Leaf rust - small yellowish-green spots appear on the surface of the leaves. The affected leaves gradually acquire a bright yellow color with a necrotic center, then die off completely. On the lower surface, corresponding to the spots on the upper side, convex waxy pustules from light yellow to pinkish color develop. While the spots on the upper side become sunken, these pustules become more prominent. At first glance, the plants look like they have been burned. Diseased leaves often curl downwards, as a result of which the shape of the chrysanthemum bush changes. Reason: the disease progresses intensively in years with warm and humid weather. The infection can be transmitted by wind, rain, insects, as well as the tools used. Damaged leaves are torn off and burned. The plants are fed with phosphorus-potassium fertilizers. Spray with copper-containing fungicides, foundationazole or 1% colloidal sulfur.

Root bacterial cancer - growths appear on the root neck or on the stem. If you notice signs of this disease, the plant must be immediately removed and burned! Good drainage, autumn digging of the soil, removal of plant residues are the main conditions for preventing bacterial diseases of chrysanthemums

Septoria or leaf spot - brown and black spots appear on the leaves of chrysanthemums, merging into one large spot that affects most of the leaf blade, the leaves turn yellow and dry out. In addition, foci of fungal spores form on the leaves in the form of barely visible black dots - a source of infection of new plants. Typically, the disease spreads from the bottom up, first causing leaves to die and fall off, then delaying flowering. The pathogen persists on fallen leaves and plant debris. For prevention purposes, it is recommended to remove and burn affected leaves, and under no circumstances water the chrysanthemum over the leaf, but only at the root. When feeding, increase the content of potassium-phosphorus fertilizers, increase regular fight with weeds. If, despite all the preventive measures, signs of septoria still appear on your chrysanthemums, I recommend treating them with one of the listed drugs in the following proportion: polycarbacin (30-40 g/10l), chomecin (40 g/10l), cuprozan (50 g/10l). 10l), copper oxychloride (50 g/10l), zineb (50 g/10), basezol (30 g/10l). In addition, you can treat with Bordeaux mixture, copper oxychloride or copper-soap liquid.

PESTS OF CHRYSANTHEMUMS:

Aphid - Most often, several species of aphids can be found on chrysanthemum plants. They settle in colonies on the underside of leaves and buds. Damage to chrysanthemum plants is caused by both aphid larvae and adults. By sucking the juice out of the plant, they deplete the bush, which leads to a severe slowdown in growth, and then to complete drying out of the plant. In addition, aphids transmit viral diseases. Chrysanthemums affected by aphids lose their decorative properties, inflorescences and peduncles become unsuitable for cutting. Single colonies of aphids are cut off along with the leaves or washed off with water. With a stronger spread, plants are sprayed with Aktara, Aktellik, Calypso, BI-58. For better adhesion, add to the working solution laundry soap 40 g/10l

Meadow bug- leaves, buds, and inflorescences suffer from this pest and its larvae that feed on cell sap. The leaves become covered with whitish spots, turn brown and die, the buds do not open, and inflorescences are formed with deformed petals. Pests overwinter under plant debris. For prevention, the bushes are sprayed with a phosphamide solution (10 g per 10 liters of water). If damaged by a bug, treat with water with baby shampoo diluted in it (1 teaspoon per 10 liters) or with the same drugs used against aphids. Spraying is carried out on a cool morning, when the bugs are inactive.

Chrysanthemum nematode : - this pest is very difficult to see with the naked eye; it is a thread-like worm. The characteristic symptoms of the disease are expressed in the appearance of mosaic spots between the veins of the leaves, which darken over time, the leaves curl and dry out. The disease caused by a nematode spreads from the lower leaves to the upper ones. Buds are formed only where the pest has not yet reached. The infection spreads from poor quality water, heavy dew, when propagated by cuttings taken from a diseased plant, enters with contaminated soil. The pest overwinters in aboveground parts infected plants and in soil. For prevention, before planting and during autumn digging, chrysanthemum bushes are sprayed with a phosphamide solution (10 g / 10 l of water). Diseased plants are removed and burned, and the soil is disinfected with formalin solution

It is not for nothing that the chrysanthemum is called the queen of autumn - when other flowers stop blooming and go into winter rest, the chrysanthemum pleases the eye with its splendor and riot of colors. And it seems that this flower is not afraid of cold, autumn rains, first frosts, or diseases.

But, unfortunately, these persistent flowers also have diseases and pests - aphids, mites, powdery mildew, and white rust of chrysanthemums. Most often, chrysanthemum health problems arise due to improper care and non-compliance with agricultural practices, although there are exceptions.

Non-communicable and infectious diseases

Non-infectious diseases develop if the conditions for growing flowers do not meet the standards, if the diet and watering regime, soil, and air temperature are not suitable for them. In this case, the flowers will not need treatment, you just need to fully comply with the growing technology.

*Non-infectious diseases affect individual specimens or all flowers at once, but in any case they are not transmitted healthy plants. Their danger lies in the fact that they inhibit the growth and development of chrysanthemums, weaken their immunity and increase the risk of infectious diseases - viral, fungal, bacterial.

So, on heavy, floating soil that has no drainage system, chrysanthemums may experience so-called “root suffocation,” during which their oxygen supply deteriorates and they are unable to absorb nutrients from the soil to provide plants with them. As a result, the flowers begin to ache, the leaves turn yellow, the roots rot, and the plant dies.

Excess moisture disrupts the balance between absorption by the roots and evaporation by the above-ground part of the plant. It is not able to get rid of excess moisture and a transverse crack appears on the flowering stem, due to which the stem along with the bud breaks. Sometimes the stem remains intact, but the inflorescence is deformed. Lack of moisture is also harmful to chrysanthemums. They become lethargic, leaves turn yellow, flower petals fall off.

Low temperatures during flowering cause yellowing or redness of leaves along the central and longitudinal veins.

Non-infectious diseases of chrysanthemums also arise from excess or deficiency of minerals. A plant that is constantly on a “starvation diet” weakens and cannot resist pathogenic organisms.

The addition of fresh manure also harms chrysanthemums; it burns young roots, and they become a breeding ground for bacteria and fungi, which also causes the death of the flower.

Infectious diseases of chrysanthemums, just like infections of people, are transmitted from sick individuals to healthy ones. In a flower affected by an infectious disease, negative physiological changes occur, which are reflected in their appearance. Their photosynthesis and water absorption decrease, and their metabolic processes. Externally, this is manifested by wilting, stunted growth, rotting of roots, death of shoots, leaves and buds, powdery coating on leaves, and malignant neoplasms. What infectious diseases are chrysanthemums susceptible to?

White rust chrysanthemums

The first signs of the disease are round yellow spots on leaves measuring 5 mm. First, spots appear on young leaves, gradually they become larger and change color to light brown. At the same time, round “pockmarks” appear on the underside - sporangia containing telytospores. It is noteworthy that leaves affected by the disease do not fall off.

Teleitospores germinate and form spores of a new type - basidospores, which are carried by the wind. In conditions of high humidity, it easily germinates on healthy leaves and infects the flower, as a result - most of the plants are affected by the disease and lose their marketable appearance. For this reason, chrysanthemum white rust is recognized as a quarantine pathogen.

The fight against the disease involves a whole range of measures. Diseased flowers are removed and sprayed with fungicides. Which ones exactly – you should ask the experts. The fact is that the fungus that causes white rust has already developed immunity to some fungicides, so it is quite difficult to fight the pathogen. Plants can be treated with myclobutanil, azoxystrobin, difenoconazole, kresoxim-methyl or tebuconazole.

Gray rot of chrysanthemums

Gray rot of chrysanthemums - develops in cold and damp weather, during prolonged rains, or when transporting cut flowers. Brown watery spots appear on the petals. Then the spots grow, and the inflorescence turns into a rotting mass. Gray rot affects both adult plants and cuttings during rooting.

Gray rot develops on weak plants, in unfavorable growing conditions - with strong density, poor ventilation, high air and soil humidity, increased acidity soil and excess nitrogen fertilizers.

To combat gray mold, it is first necessary to optimize growing conditions and bring them to normal. Then remove and burn the affected plants, treat healthy ones with fungicides. To prevent the disease, tools, boxes and racks are disinfected, and the room is ventilated.

Septoria

Septoria, or leaf spot. This disease of chrysanthemums is manifested by the fact that lower leaves round brown spots appear. Leaves affected by septoria turn yellow, causing the plant to weaken, and the inflorescences do not have the opportunity to fully develop.

Septoria.

The spots that first appear on the lower leaves gradually appear on the upper ones. At the same time, pycnidia of the fungus are formed in the spots, which are almost invisible to the naked eye.

The disease develops in a poorly ventilated greenhouse, with very dense plantings. The pathogens continue to live on fallen leaves.

To prevent the occurrence and spread of gray rot, you need to remove and burn damaged leaves, thin out the plantings and reduce the dose of nitrogen fertilizers. At the first signs of rot, plants are sprayed with copper oxychloride, copper-soap liquid or Bordeaux mixture.

To prepare the liquid, 10 grams of copper sulfate is dissolved in 0.5 liters hot water, and separately dissolve 100 grams of liquid potassium soap in 10 liters warm water. Then mix the two solutions and use them to process flowers. The solution is prepared immediately before use. Spraying chrysanthemums should be carried out so that the solution gets on the leaves on both sides.

Powdery mildew

Powdery mildew - this disease affects the flower completely. A white coating caused by spores forms on it. The tissues under the coating dry out, which leads to the death of the plant. Powdery mildew is a consequence of a lack of calcium in the soil, excess nitrogen fertilizers, extreme heat and heavy dew. The pathogens continue to live on plant remains, so after cutting, the roots must be removed and burned.

Treatment of chrysanthemums for powdery mildew consists of spraying with a soap solution with soda ash. The solution is prepared at the rate of 10 liters of water per 40 grams of soap and 40 grams of soda.

In addition, for spraying you can prepare a copper-soap liquid from 200 grams of green soap, 10 liters of water and 20 grams of copper sulfate. Chrysanthemums are processed at temperatures above +20 degrees.

As a preventative measure, you should loosen the soil more often, ventilate the greenhouse, remove old leaves and roots after cutting, and thin out the plantings.

Harmful insects

Chrysanthemums also have insect pests - mites, aphids, meadow bugs, tobacco thrips, spider mites, slobbering pennies. For example:

Greenhouse aphid

Greenhouse aphids are greenish or pinkish in color. Settles on the leaves, on the underside, in whole colonies. Aphids are sucking insects that affect flower stalks, shoots and buds. As a result of the “work” of the aphids, the leaves are deformed, and the buds remain unopened.

Brown chrysanthemum aphid

The brown chrysanthemum aphid is black-brown in color. A resident of greenhouses, it settles in inflorescences, but does not damage them, but contaminates them with excrement and residues from larvae.

These pests are destroyed with the preparations “Bi-58 new”, “Aktellik”, “Karate”, diluted in water in accordance with the instructions.

Spider mites

Spider mites - these pests of indoor and greenhouse flowers, settle on the underside of the leaf and entwine it with cobwebs. As a result, the leaf turns yellow, dries out and falls off. Mites reproduce well in dry, hot weather; in addition to chrysanthemums, they can also damage other plants in the greenhouse. In one season, mites produce 3-4 generations, and if you don’t fight them, you can forget about the quality of flowers. Female mites overwinter under plant debris, so they cannot be left in the greenhouse over the winter; in addition, they can overwinter in the top layer of soil.

Folk remedies are powerless in the fight against ticks, so chrysanthemums must be treated with Actellik or Fitoverm.

Meadow bugs

Meadow bugs - these pests are dangerous because they damage the leaves, flowers and buds of chrysanthemums. Leaves affected by bugs become deformed, curled, and swell. The buds never open or turn into misshapen flowers. Pests spend the winter under the remains of the plant, so in the fall the greenhouse must be completely cleaned. To combat bedbugs, the same drugs are used as to combat ticks and aphids.

Chrysanthemums: diseases, pests and methods of controlling them.

Chrysanthemums amaze with a variety of shades. It would seem like an unpretentious flower that can be found in any garden, but if you care for it incorrectly, the flowers can die. To obtain highly decorative chrysanthemums in open ground it is necessary to protect them from pests and diseases. The main condition is compliance with growing technology. Violation technological rules leads to weakening of plants and damage to them by diseases.

Plant diseases are divided into infectious and non-infectious.

Non-communicable diseases
Occurs when the conditions for growing plants are violated: soil, diet, moisture, temperature environment. In general, non-infectious diseases are not transmitted from plants affected by them to healthy ones; they retard the growth and development of the plant and increase its susceptibility to infectious diseases (fungal, bacterial, viral).

Chrysanthemums are characterized by the well-known phenomenon of “strangulation” of the root. This occurs on heavy, swampy, poorly drained soils or after heavy rainfall. At the same time, the supply of oxygen to the root system deteriorates, the roots suffocate and lose their ability to provide the plant with nutrients. The leaves turn yellow, the roots turn brown and die, the plant dies.

Due to excess moisture in the soil and an imbalance between moisture absorption by the root system and its evaporation by the plant, chrysanthemums develop a transverse crack on the peduncle under the bud. Then the bud breaks off or a deformed inflorescence is formed.

A lack of moisture in the soil and loss of turgor weaken the plant, leading to the development of various diseases. Harmful effects low temperatures during the growing season of flowers, it manifests itself in yellowing of the leaves along the central vein or redness of the leaves along the veins.

Non-infectious diseases arise in conditions of excess, deficiency or imbalance of mineral nutrition of chrysanthemums.

These diseases depress the plant and create the preconditions for damage by pathogenic organisms. Thus, the application of fresh manure causes burns to young roots, on which bacteria and fungi subsequently multiply, which leads to the death of plants.

Infectious diseases

Under the influence of infectious diseases, the condition of plants and their appearance. External symptoms of diseases are varied: stunted growth and development, wilting of plants, root rot, deformations, cancerous tumors, necrosis, powdery plaque, etc.

Fungal diseases

1. Gray rot – Botrytis sinerea Fr.

This disease most often affects inflorescences during cool, prolonged rainy weather, as well as during storage and transportation of the cut. The first sign of damage to the inflorescences is light brown watery spots on the reed flowers. This is followed by rapid growth of the spots and the transformation of the inflorescences into a rotten brown mass. Affected inflorescences become covered with abundant gray coating conidial sporulation of pathogens. The rotten mass is filled with the sclerotium of the fungus, with the help of which it overwinters on the remains of the plant. In spring, the plant becomes infected with conidia. Cuttings also suffer from gray rot during rooting.

The disease develops on weakened plants that were in unfavorable growing conditions: dense plantings, insufficient ventilation, waterlogging of the substrate, excess nitrogen fertilizers, increased soil acidity.

Methods of struggle. The fight against gray mold involves eliminating the conditions conducive to its development. Severely affected plants or parts of plants (cuttings, inflorescences, leaves) are removed and burned. In order to prevent the disease, rooms, racks and drawers are disinfected and regularly ventilated.

2. Powdery mildew – Oidium chrisantemi Rab.

Affects buds, leaves and stems. They develop a whitish coating caused by conidial sporulation. Damaged tissue dries underneath. The spread of the disease is facilitated by heat and heavy dew, excess nitrogen fertilizers and lack of calcium in the soil. This disease is especially dangerous in greenhouses. Pathogens live on plant remains.

Methods of struggle. Plants must be sprayed with soda ash and soap (40 grams of soap and 40 grams of soda per 10 liters of water), copper-soap liquid (200 grams of green soap and 20-25 grams of copper sulfate per 10 liters of water), colloidal sulfur ( 0.5 - 0.8%) at an air temperature of not lower than 20°C. In the fight against powdery mildew, loosening the soil, ventilating greenhouses, destroying dried foliage, and unthickened placement of queen cells help well. For mass cultivation, it is necessary to select resistant varieties.

3. Rust – Puccinia chrisantemi Roz

When infected by this fungus, the surface of the leaves becomes covered with small yellowish-green spots. The underside of the leaves is covered with dark brown, round rotten heaps - uredopustules of the pathogen. Diseased leaves gradually turn yellow and die, the affected plant develops poorly. Uredospores overwinter on plant debris. The disease progresses intensively in warm and humid weather. Chrysanthemums grown in greenhouses are more often affected by rust.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to select healthy queen cells. If a disease is detected, damaged leaves should be torn off and burned. Use phosphorus-potassium fertilizers in fertilizing. It is also necessary to spray the plants with fungicides - use copper oxychloride (0.5%), Bordeaux mixture (1%), colloidal sulfur (1%).

4. Leaf spot, or septoria – Septoria chrisantemella Sacc.

Septoria leaf blight is a very common disease of chrysanthemums in different countries. It appears on the lower leaves as rounded dark brown, very dark spots. The nature of the spots depends on the type of pathogen, the conditions for the development of the disease, the variety of chrysanthemums and the time of infection. Affected leaves turn yellow and die. Plants are weakened and inflorescences do not fully develop. The disease usually spreads on the leaves from bottom to top. Sporulations (pycnidia) of the fungus form on the spots. These are small black dots, almost invisible to the naked eye. The disease progresses with excess air humidity and dense plantings. The causative agent of the disease lives on fallen leaves.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to regularly remove affected leaves and burn them. Avoid thickening of plantings, excessive application of nitrogen fertilizers, and root watering. When a disease appears, plants need to be sprayed using Bordeaux mixture (1%), copper-soap liquid, copper oxychloride (0.5%).

To prepare the liquid, you need to dissolve 10 grams in 0.5 liters of hot water. copper sulfate, and in a separate container dissolve 100 g in 10 liters of warm water. liquid potassium soap. Then, gradually stirring, pour the vitriol solution into the soap solution. The liquid must be prepared immediately before spraying. Repeated spraying is carried out after 10-12 days. It is necessary to ensure that the drug gets on the underside of the leaves.

Bacterial diseases

Root bacterial cancer
The disease manifests itself in the form of growths on the stem or root collar. If signs of disease are detected, the plants are removed from the plantings and burned.

Viral diseases

The literature describes about 20 different viral diseases that affect chrysanthemums: aspermia, white spotting of flowers, mosaic, rosette, dwarfism, greening of inflorescences, etc.

When chrysanthemums are infected by different strains of viruses, the signs of the disease in plants may vary depending on the variety. Characteristic features Viral diseases can be: growth retardation, reduction in the size of leaves and inflorescences, mosaic pattern on the leaves and chlorosis, deformation of inflorescences. When plants are infected with a virus, the reed flowers in the inflorescence are partially or completely discolored, sometimes they become spotted or completely white. In varieties with yellow inflorescences, discoloration of reed flowers is observed very rarely; in white varieties it does not occur.

The virus is transmitted by aphids or plant sap when working with them. To reliably determine the damage to plants by viruses, in most cases special virological studies are required.

Methods of struggle. Careful selection of healthy mother plants, destruction and burning of sick ones. It should be borne in mind that viruses that cause deformation of inflorescences and their discoloration rarely give noticeable symptoms on the leaves, so it is necessary to cull plants during flowering. Controlling aphids, leafhoppers and thrips reduces the likelihood of viral infections being transferred from one plant to another.

Pests of chrysanthemums
The main pests of chrysanthemums are aphids, meadow bugs, slobbering pennies, tobacco thrips and spider mites.

1. Greenhouse (or peach) aphid – Mizodes persicae Sulz.

It has a greenish, yellowish or pinkish color. Aphids settle in colonies on the undersides of leaves. It also affects shoots, buds and pedicels. Aphids suck out cell sap from them. The damaged leaves become deformed and the buds do not bloom.

2. Brown chrysanthemum aphid – Macrosiphoniella chrisantemi Sanb.

It differs from other types of aphids in its black-brown color. In a greenhouse, they live inside the inflorescences, do not cause their deformation, but contaminate the inflorescences with skins from larvae and excrement.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to spray the plants with one of the preparations: “Actellik” (50% e.e. - 10 ml/10 l of water), “Bi-58 new” (40% e.e. - 20 ml/10 l of water), “Karate "(5% e.e. - 1-1.5 ml/10 l of water), etc.

3. Slobbery pennies or Leafhopper – Philaenus spumarius L.

In the spring, eggs that have overwintered hatch into larvae that live on the leaves and shoots of plants. They are covered with a foamy mass. Cicadas feed on plant sap, their bites cause small yellow spots on the leaves, and the inflorescences are deformed.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to spray the plants with the same preparations as against aphids.

4. Meadow or field bug - Lygus pratensis L.

Bugs and larvae damage and deform leaves, buds and flowers. The leaves curl and swellings appear on them. The buds do not bloom or produce deformed inflorescences. Adult bugs overwinter under plant debris.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to destroy weeds and spray them with the same preparations as against aphids.

5. Spider mite – tetranychus urticae Koch.

Mites damage the underside of leaves, envelop them in webs and lead to discoloration, sometimes yellowing, and in case of significant infestation, drying and falling of leaves. Mass reproduction of the pest occurs in hot and dry weather; it damages different kinds plants. It produces several generations over the summer. Adult females overwinter under plant remains in the top layer of soil. The mite damages chrysanthemums, most often in greenhouses.

Methods of struggle. Must be collected and destroyed plant remains and weeds, dig up the soil in the fall, spray the plants with the same preparations as against aphids. Spider mites quickly get used to pesticides, so they need to be changed. It is also recommended to spray with infusions of yarrow, garlic, onion, black henbane, and dope.

6. Chrysanthemum nematode – Aphelenchoides ritzemabosi (Schw.) Stein.

Damage appears on the lower leaves as light areas with veins along the edges. Subsequently, diseased leaves, turning brown, curl and die. Soon the upper leaves and buds are affected. If the infection is significant, young leaves become deformed and do not open completely, and young cuttings stop growing. Nematodes overwinter in the above-ground parts of an infected plant.

Methods of struggle. It is necessary to cull diseased plants and alternate crops with growing cereals. Spray diseased plants with heterophos solutions.

Hope you found detailed information about diseases and pests of chrysanthemums. Good luck!