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To make the apartment comfortable, winter period it must warm up to a certain temperature, and for this the heating system must be properly installed. For its high-quality and trouble-free operation, it is necessary to comply with all conditions not only during installation of the utility network, but also during operation and maintenance.

Heat transfer from the battery to the room occurs in three ways: heat exchange, convection and radiation.

The heating network is required to uniformly heat the entire area of ​​the room, and not to have to reduce the heat of the radiator in the middle of the season (keep the windows or vents open).

But exactly the opposite can happen, which means that the batteries will begin to poorly warm up the room, and if this happens, then use the reminder below.

How to increase the heat transfer of heating batteries? Memo

To increase the heat transfer of radiators, five basic conditions must be met. Let's look at them:

1. Dust must not be allowed to accumulate on the heating device, since microparticles significantly reduce heat transfer; it is also necessary to keep it clean and inner part this device;
2. It is better to paint heating devices in dark color, since it is precisely these shades that contribute not only to the absorption, but also to the emission of light. To do this, it is better to use zinc-based white and then the coefficient useful action heating system and in particular the battery will increase by almost 15%;
3. The simplest answer to the question: - how to increase the heat transfer of batteries? - is the advice: - you need to hang a reflective screen on the wall behind the radiator; ordinary foil is suitable for this, which will redirect the heat escaping outside into the room. Take this material or a metal sheet and attach it to the wall (behind the heating device) and you will immediately feel that the air has warmed up;
4. In order to increase the heat transfer of the heating battery, it is necessary to increase the surface area of ​​the radiator; for this purpose, casings are used, which can be made of aluminum. If the battery does not heat the room well, then such casings are used, since this metal quickly heats up and gives off heat.
5. If the batteries are often disconnected, you need to purchase an iron element, which takes longer to heat up and transmits heat for a longer time;
6. When warm air from the battery circulates in an unnecessary direction, the air flow from operating fans is directed to the radiator, which will redirect hot air in the right direction;
7. If there are several houses computer coolers, which are not used, then they are located at the bottom of the radiator, and they will help warm air circulate faster from the floor to the ceiling.

The considered cases provide an answer to the question: - how to increase the heat transfer of batteries? but besides this, it is necessary to take into account other factors, such as the power of the heating device, its quality, the method of connection and compliance with certain rules during installation.

Rules to follow during installation

• To prevent air from accumulating during installation heating battery use a building level;
• The distance from the floor to the radiator and from the radiator to the window sill should be 10 cm, and from the wall the heating installation is located at a 3 cm gap;
• If the furniture is placed in front of the front panel of the heating battery, then maintain the required distance (10 cm);
• But remember that the front panel of a poorly functioning heating device cannot be covered with curtains, decorative grilles and screens, as well as casings;
• When installing the liner, counter-slopes are not used, and the system should not rise or sag;
• If the battery does not heat well, then one of the reasons may be clogged pipes or the heating device itself. It may appear due to hangnails on threaded connection and therefore it is advisable to clean them before installation work;
• Also, increasing the heat transfer of the battery can be achieved by increasing the sections. But if the connection is lateral, then this will be ineffective, because the continuous battery will heat up slowly and the way out of this situation will be to switch to a diagonal connection;
• One of the first reasons for improper installation and insufficient heat transfer of a heating device is the tilting of the radiator, its close installation to the wall or floor, as well as overlap with furniture or decorative elements, as discussed above.

How to correctly calculate the power of a heating battery

It should be noted that heat transfer is the power or heat flow of a heating device. Let's consider how it is calculated for a specific room, which in our case has an area of ​​14 m2 and a ceiling height of 2.7 m.

The most common way correct calculation based on the presence of external walls and windows in the room. For example:

• if the room has one wall facing the street and one window, then 1 kW of power is required per 10 m2;
• if the room has two outer walls and two windows, then for 10 m2, a heating device with a heat output of 1.3 kW will be required.

Let's consider the second method of determining required quantity heat flow for heating a particular room:

• S * h * 41, where S is the area of ​​the room;
• h - ceiling height;
• 41 - indicator minimum power per 1 m 3 room.

Having made the calculation using this formula, we determine that for our room with an area of ​​14 m2 and a flow height of 2.7 m, we find that we need to purchase a radiator with a power of 14 * 2.7 * 41 = 1549 W, which corresponds to 1.5 kW, and since one section (depending on the brand) has a power of up to 100 W, it is quite easy to determine that you will need to purchase a 15-section heating battery.

It is important! If during the calculation a non-integer expression is obtained, then it is rounded up.

If you want to know how to regulate the heat in the radiators, you need to install a thermostat that ensures uniform heating of the room to a certain temperature.

Conclusion

For quality work heating device, as well as to warm up the room, it is necessary to determine the heat transfer of the battery and, if necessary, try to increase it.

We considered the question of how you can independently carry out work to increase the heat transfer of the heating system, but if you don’t figure out what’s what, then call a plumber who will not only quickly and efficiently carry out all the work necessary work, but will also explain what and how to do.

Winter is getting closer and closer, we gradually feel the days getting colder. As we approach winter cold you need to think about heating your home. Our material is devoted to this topic, in which we will consider a way to increase the efficiency of a heating battery.

We present to your attention a video that describes the entire process.

So, what do we need to implement our idea:
- several boxed 80s coolers;
- Charger from an old mobile phone;
- nylon ties or wire 10 pcs;
- stationery knife;
- soldering iron;
- tin;
- rosin;
- electrical tape;
- crosshead screwdriver.

Let us slightly clarify some of the nuances with the materials. Box coolers can be removed from old computer power supplies. You should also pay attention to the charger, which should deliver a current of more than half an ampere. If you don't have nylon ties on hand, you can use duct tape, copper wire or hot glue. Now that everything is clear with the materials, you can get to work.

We begin to assemble our simple design. To do this, we use nylon ties to secure the coolers to each other. In the end, we should end up with a kind of ventilation structure with five coolers attached side by side. It is imperative to ensure that the fans of all coolers are in the same direction.

We cut off the excess parts of the ties with a stationery knife.

Now let's start connecting the wires coming from the coolers. They need to be connected in parallel, that is, black to black, red to red. If there are yellow wires on the coolers, then they need to be cut off, since yellow wire– this is the speed sensor wire, which we do not need.

We solder the wires so that we get two stranded wires.

After all the wires are connected to each other, you need to connect them to the power supply. We carefully check the plus and minus of the unit, since if connected incorrectly, the coolers will not spin. Solder the wires from the coolers to the power supply wires.

Let's check. If everything works, feel free to isolate it.

Often in apartments, especially older buildings, it becomes colder every year in winter. People have to purchase and use, which leads to a significant increase. But why overpay for excessive energy consumption if there is more cheap options fix the situation? Today we will talk about simple ways to increase heat transfer heating batteries, which do not require significant costs, and which anyone can implement home handyman. It is worth considering the reasons leading to a decrease in room temperature.

Most often, the reason for the decrease in heat transfer is scale and scale that accumulates inside. If the radiator itself is flushed (which utilities should do annually), the heat transfer will increase significantly. The same applies to risers. However, it will not be possible to carry out such a procedure on your own due to the fact that when carrying out such work (even in summer), it is necessary to drain the water from the system. You can’t do this without the help of specialists. The same applies to replacing radiators from cast iron to ones - they have greater heat transfer. Therefore, we will not dwell on such complex and time-consuming options. It's better to consider more simple ways, which anyone can do, even without experience in this field.

We use a reflective screen: the use of foamed polyethylene

Use is a fairly popular method of increasing heat transfer. Foamed polyethylene with foil coating on the one hand, it is perfect for these purposes. Such a screen (it should be larger than the radiator itself) is placed behind the radiator with foil in the direction of the room and fixed to the wall with double-sided tape or liquid nails. Foamed polyethylene provides additional insulation, and the foil reflects the heat that warmed the wall before installing the screen, directing it into the room.

Important information! It is best when such moments are thought through at the stage of installing heating radiators. In this case, a steel ribbed shield can be attached to the radiator, which will accumulate heat and then direct it into the room. Such panels are convenient if heating outages occur frequently.

Increasing heat transfer with additional accessories and painting

To increase the air temperature in the room, special aluminum casings are used, which are placed on the radiator. With their help, the area and, as a result, their heat transfer increases. The cost of such casings is low, but the effect is quite significant.

The color that radiators painted, also has great importance. It is better to choose darker shades for these purposes. For example, a radiator painted in Brown color has a heat transfer greater than white ones by 20-25%.

Improving convection by increasing air circulation

Everyone knows that improvement contributes to more quick warm-up premises. For these purposes, you can use a fan, which is installed in such a way as to achieve maximum flow of warm air towards the room.

Helpful information! If you have computer coolers at home that are not in use, you can install them under the radiator, directing the air flow upward. This will maximize convection, causing the room to become significantly warmer.

You can increase it (if the radiator is recessed under the window sill) by cutting holes in the window sill and closing them screens or decorative covers. Thus, warm air will not linger in the niche, which will improve circulation.

It's impossible to win this country! Self-installation fans to improve convection:

General rules for improving heat transfer from heating radiators

In order not to encounter a decrease in the heat transfer of batteries in the future, it is worth thinking about this at the stage of installing radiators. The basic rules are:

• mandatory behind the radiator, possible installation steel screen;
• installation bimetallic batteries instead of cast iron;
• installation at the inlet and outlet of the radiator (this will allow you, if necessary, to flush sections yourself or add additional ones without disconnecting and draining the entire system).

If you follow these simple rules during installation, it will subsequently be much easier to increase the temperature in the room without seeking help from specialists. And this is additional savings for the family budget. Let’s summarize

There are many ways to increase the heat output of heating radiators. Today we looked at only the main ones. However, it should be remembered that it is always easier to think through everything in advance, at the installation stage, than to put in a lot of effort later, without the confidence that the result will be significant. Unfortunately, in Russia everything is done at random. The final advice from the editors of the site will be this recommendation: think about the future and do not spare money during installation. The financial resources saved today can turn into costs tomorrow that will be many times greater than your savings.

A centralized heating system involves heating the coolant in the boiler room and further distributing it to living quarters using a system of pipes and radiators. In order for heating to be as efficient and uniform as possible, it is necessary to select correct radiators, and also accept additional measures to increase heat transfer.

In the long term, knowing how to increase the heat output of a battery central heating, will help the owner achieve maximum comfortable and smooth heating of his home, and permanently solve the problem of cold in the apartment when the heating system is on.

To understand the operating principle various methods increasing heat transfer, it is necessary to become familiar with the variables that affect the efficiency of the central heating radiator located in the apartment.

In general understanding, the level of heat transfer from a radiator depends on the following factors:

There is also indirect factors, due to which the heating battery connected to the circuit does not operate at full capacity, are:

Improved air convection

Among the most simple methods that will help you understand how to increase the heat transfer of a heating pipe with your own hands is the use of the laws of convection. Often, in apartments, radiators are filled with pieces of furniture, protected or hidden behind heavy curtains. All these elements prevent air circulation and it is quite difficult to achieve comfortable temperature conditions in the room, even if the central heating is operating at full power.

To optimize speed air flow, it is necessary to free up as much space around the radiator as possible.

Without encountering obstacles on its way, the air heated by the battery will move freely around the room and provide maximum level heating provided by the radiator power.

Using an electric fan to improve convection

Owners who are well aware of the physical laws according to which heating, sewerage and water supply are designed in houses, understand that the speed of air circulation affects the heat transfer of the battery. The faster the air circulates in a room, the more heat it can pick up from the radiator over a certain period of time.

To improve natural convection, electric fans can be installed near radiators. Preference should be given to silent models that consume minimal amount electricity. The fan should be installed at a certain angle to the battery. This simple method is quite effective. It is able to raise the temperature in the room by several degrees.

Arranging a reflective screen

Foil for radiators can be used as a tool to increase heat transfer, which will help direct the flow of thermal energy into the room. From radiators not equipped with a reflective screen, heat radiates in all directions, including to cold external walls. The screen helps focus the direction of heat flow and increase the temperature in the room.

The design of the screen is simple and accessible. It should have a larger area than the area of ​​​​the radiators, and be installed on a clean wall behind the battery. Instead of foil, you can use foil-isolon - a special material that has a foam base on one side and is covered with reflective foil on the other. You need to mount the screen on the wall using any high-quality construction adhesive.

Blowing radiators

At difficult conditions During operation, the central heating radiator may become clogged or airy over time. Such changes are accompanied by poor coolant circulation and the appearance of cold sections. Eliminate air jams and blockages will be helped by blowing out the radiators - quick and economical way increasing heat transfer.

There are several methods of purging, which involve the use various types equipment:

Using one or more methods of purging radiators will improve the efficiency of radiators and will allow you to forget about the cold and discomfort in the apartment.

It is worth remembering that a central heating system is a complex network of radiators and pipelines.

Therefore, it is advisable to perform some types of battery purging together with neighbors, because otherwise the cleaned sections will again reduce heat transfer after a few weeks of operation. You can read more about methods for flushing a heating system.

By following simple and accessible recommendations, you can increase the heat transfer of any type of radiator and be able to get the maximum benefit from using central system heating. Integrated use of methods is the most rational decision problems of poor heat transfer and will help the owner achieve efficient work heating devices in your home.

Prologue.

This year we are experiencing unprecedented frosts. In some areas of the republic, the air temperature dropped to -24ºС, which is an anomalous phenomenon for warm Moldova. I don’t have a thermometer hanging in my room, but I felt that my hand lying on the table began to freeze, and I had to put a piece of foam rubber under it.

We, in general, like the Amundsens, are already accustomed to the coolness, but yesterday the chairman of our condominium, while collecting signatures for an appeal to the heat supplier, asked what the air temperature was in our apartment. It is unlikely that the heat supplier will increase the temperature of the coolant, but perhaps the chairman wants to demand a penalty under the pretext of providing poor-quality services.

Be that as it may, this event first prompted me to measure the air temperature in the apartment, and then to conduct this experiment.

Of course, to say that this experiment was unclean is to say nothing. There are too many variables that could affect the accuracy of the result, from the direction of the wind overboard to the activity of the computer running in the room being tested.

But the most important parameter, which at another time would not allow this experiment to be carried out at all, is the stability of the coolant temperature.

The fact is that in warmer periods of time, the temperature of the coolant is actively regulated during the day to save energy consumption. When the temperature outside is abnormal, all the valves open wide.

Purpose of the experiment.

Confirm or refute the assumption that forced cooling of the battery steam heating, even at a coolant temperature of 42ºС, can significantly increase the heat transfer of the system in the conditions of an ordinary city apartment.

Temperature sensor.

To determine the effectiveness of one or another method of blowing the battery, it was decided to measure the difference in coolant temperatures before and after the central heating battery.

In fact, I started by measuring the battery temperature at different points, but I was unable to process the data obtained.

For this purpose, two identical temperature sensors were manufactured based on KMT-17 semiconductor thermistors.

And this is how the sensors were attached to the steam heating pipes. To improve contact with the pipe, the thermistor was lubricated with heat-conducting paste KPT-8.

To reduce the measurement error introduced by air flows, the sensors had to be additionally insulated with foam tape.

Selecting the optimal fan position.

Coolant temperature measurements were made at different fan positions relative to the battery. The fan power, however, did not change.

During the experiment, the coolant temperature was 43ºС, the air temperature in the room was 20ºС.

In all cases, the distance from the center of the blades to the center of the battery was 70 cm.

The difference in readings between the temperature of the coolant at the inlet and outlet is indicated in arbitrary units, since calibrate the thermometer with such high accuracy there was simply nothing. In this case, 0 (zero) conventional units were taken as the starting point, at which the battery was cooled naturally.

The air flow is directed from top to bottom, and the angle of inclination of the fan shaft relative to the horizon is 50º. At the same time, the temperature difference at the input and output of the battery is 11 Conventional Units (hereinafter referred to as CU).

The air flow is directed from top to bottom, the fan operates in the “toady” mode (turns from side to side). Temperature difference – 8 UE.

When blowing the battery from the side, the temperature difference between the input and output is 13 UE.

By directing the air flow to the center of the battery, it was possible to obtain the highest temperature difference - 15 UE.

If you direct the air flow to the center of the battery, but at the same time turn on the “sneak” mode, the temperature difference will drop to - 12 UE.

The most advantageous, from the point of view of heat transfer, turned out to be the direction of air flow from the floor towards the plane of the battery.

Experimental data.

First day of the experiment.

All graphs show temperature changes from 8:00 am to 12:00 pm.

The coolant temperature is 42ºС.

The graph shows that the system worked more efficiently while the temperature difference between the air and the battery was large. When the difference decreased, the system stabilized.

The air temperature in the center of the room at a height of 65 cm from the floor rose from 15ºС to 20ºС in 9 hours.

Subsequently, the temperature rose another 0.5ºС.

The fan power consumption was 35.2 Watts.

When, during the experiment, I left my room into the corridor, I immediately felt the temperature difference, because by that time I had already taken off my warm clothes.

I went to the barn and brought out another fan. This fan was not equipped with a power switch, so I connected it through a homemade triac regulator, the design of which is described in detail.

Well, life has become better, life has become more fun!

Second day of the experiment.

In the morning I again measured the coolant temperature, as well as the air temperature in the room. All values ​​remained unchanged, including the outside temperature.

No changes in temperature were noticed during the day.

Third day of the experiment.

The coolant temperature increased by one degree and amounted to 43ºС.

The temperature outside dropped and reached -15ºС.

At the same time, the temperature in the room increased by another 0.5ºС and reached 21.5ºС.

Fourth day of the experiment.

The coolant temperature is still 43ºС.

The temperature outside in the morning is -15ºС.

The temperature in the room in the morning was 21.5ºС.

Since no significant changes in temperature were noted over the past 24 hours, I decided to increase the air flow and installed a second fan at 10.00.

After 10-15 minutes, the air temperature immediately increased by one degree, and then by another half a degree and reached 23ºС.

Let's go for a walk, I thought, and at 19.00 I turned on both fans at full power. The temperature increased by another degree in two hours and reached 24ºС.

Results and conclusions.

1. I managed to increase the air temperature in the room by as much as 6ºC, and in extreme fan operation mode even by 9ºC, which confirmed the assumption that it is possible to increase the heat transfer of a central heating battery, even at such a low coolant temperature.


2. When using normal household fan Without a speed controller, the room becomes too noisy. However, if you use the heat accumulated in the room, then, for example, you can turn off the fan in the bedroom at night, and, on the contrary, turn it on in the dining room. Then you can use the fan at full power.


3. If you are in that part of the room where the movement of air generated by the fan is most noticeable, then a false sensation of a decrease in temperature is created.


4. Those who are afraid that the fan will wind up a lot can calculate the monthly energy consumption.

   35 (Watt) * 24 (hours) * 30 (days) ≈ 25 (kW*hour)

Small details.

To quickly and accurately measure the temperature of a steam heating battery, it is enough to apply a small amount of “KPT-8” thermal conductive paste to the sensor ball of a digital thermometer. During the measurement, the contact area should be covered with several layers of fabric or a layer of foam rubber.

The above experiment made me question the accuracy of my digital thermometer. To make sure his readings were correct, I compared them with the readings of a mercury thermometer. To do this, I immersed both thermometers in hot water to the same depth and monitored the readings as the water cooled.

Prolonged operation of fans immediately revealed the weak point of modern devices.

If the 1973 Penguin fan has a front sliding bearing equipped with an oil seal (the arrow marks the hole for filling the oil seal), which has allowed it to operate for almost 40 years, then in a modern fan there is no trace of such an oil seal.

In addition, the Penguin has a spring that prevents longitudinal vibrations of the shaft. The new fan, after two days of operation, began to rattle, because due to the longitudinal runout of the shaft caused by the eccentricity of the propeller, one of the fluoroplastic gaskets quickly wore out.

To eliminate the longitudinal play, several ordinary and two thin-walled washers were needed, as well as a gasket cut from foam rubber.

First I disassembled the stator.

Then I put thin-walled washers and a gasket on the motor shaft, and used the remaining washers to increase the gap between the bearings.

To ensure any long-term operation of the fan, I cut out an oil seal from felt, and a seal plug from some nylon cover and pressed it all into the recess around the shaft. Naturally, I didn’t skimp on the oil either.

I started thinking about buying two dozen 120mm computer fans. I think if you install them directly between the battery sections, it should reduce noise and increase heat transfer efficiency.

Today I spent half the night wandering around the Internet and came across several interesting resources. This means that life goes on! :) On our website, electrolux refrigerator repair is available to everyone. If you decide to leave the site, then the sponsor announcement is not the worst place to go.

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Comments (50)

Nobody, when I wrote about CFLs, I had in mind video recording. For it I use lamps that say 2700K. In my house, in general, all the lamps are 2700K, simply because we like the light reminiscent of incandescent light. I set the balance to the target and shoot. Everything is as usual.

For photography, of course, flashes are more convenient for a number of reasons. Firstly, you can shoot handheld, secondly, if you shoot with a DSLR, you can provide a large depth of field at low ISOs, thirdly, the spectrum is much better than that of CFLs, fourthly... again, energy savings.

Some of the heat escapes through the windows by heat transfer

Please describe. At least briefly.

Or rather, this is what interests me specifically:

I have a solution that I have been using for 20 years.

The temperature is slowly rising, it’s -20 outside the window and I somehow want to heat the room quickly. I tried to install a fan, but it’s really noisy and due to the fact that the room is cool in any way, the excessive circulation gives coolness

Dmitry, you’ll have to wait a couple of days until the room warms up. To prevent the fan from making noise, it will have to be prevented. Alternatively, you can install 120mm computer ones under the battery, but the efficiency will be lower.

Well, I'll try it, I'll have to turn it off at night to make less noise.

Hello, dear discussants! I accidentally came across an article about a fan and batteries and couldn’t pass it by. Maybe someone is interested in my experience of dealing with winter. 1) Increase the number of sections in the battery. It's absolutely quiet and works great. If the batteries are connected to the riser as in the photographs in the article (input on the bottom right, exit on the top right or vice versa), then this will not work - approximately the first 7 sections will be warm, and then it is useless. You need to connect the input-output diagonally, then the entire battery will be hot (tested by me). There is another, less obvious, way to connect pipes, which not everyone knows about - the inlet is from below, the outlet is also from below, from the opposite end of the battery. In this case, the entire battery also heats up (I tested it). Of course, this requires some basic plumbing skills, but polypropylene works wonders. In some cases, it is convenient to run pipes (at least one) inside the battery, especially if your battery does not have partitions (manufacturers are lazy, and recently such batteries have dominated the market) so that they interfere less. Unfortunately, it is better to modify batteries in the summer, and not in the coldest weather. 2) Of course, increasing the air flow on the battery increases the temperature in the room. The same decorative boxes. But most often they are only decorative and cover the battery only from the front and top. It’s better to make them yourself from any material (yes, even cardboard!) so that they wrap around the battery on all sides, without any gaps on the sides, but with completely open ends at the top and bottom. The battery will develop traction like a classic stove (samovar, boiler) pipe. To take this idea to perfection, the casing around the battery should not simply end with an open top end, it should continue with an air duct that goes almost to the ceiling. The air duct can go around the window, repeating the course of the upper branch of the riser (hiding the riser in itself). The cross-section of this air duct can be 2-3 times smaller than the cross-section of the battery casing, so as not to spoil the appearance of the apartment too much), but it should still be large enough so as not to create noticeable air resistance. I haven’t tried this myself, but I’m sure the traction will increase significantly, a fan may not be required! There will be no noise either. Or rather, I have not tried to do this with air, but I have tried it with water. This is how we had a shower warmed up in our dorm for several years: at the bottom is a heating element from an electric kettle, around it is a pipe made of plastic bottle. The water was spinning very strongly, the whole tank had the same temperature. I think that the air will behave exactly the same. 3) And of course, a fan for the battery! In my life, this served as an emergency measure that allowed me to survive several days of severe frosts; I never left it permanently. The fan, absolutely right, you need to take a large floor-standing Chinese one, it is quieter and more efficient, and not the old Soviet small one. Very high speed not needed here, the mode when the fan is still almost inaudible, or when it is audible but not yet annoying, is sufficient. You can slow down the fan by connecting a 400 volt paper capacitor in series with the motor. The capacitance is selected for a specific case at random. It is compact, cheap and quiet (LATR sometimes makes noise itself, and the thyristor regulator can make the fan motor make noise). This is especially true if there are children in the house - they will definitely turn on the LATR and the thyristor regulator. And the capacitors are so compact that after selecting the capacitance, they can be hidden forever in the box where the fan buttons are located; they will not heat up. If you want to further enhance the air duct method, you can add “computer” fans of as large a diameter as possible to the bottom of the battery casing, of course, also slow ones. A couple more words on the topic. My batteries do not hang at some distance from the floor, as is common practice everywhere, but stand directly on the floor (on 7 mm thick plywood). Therefore, our floor is always quite warm, despite the first floor, that is, there is no layer of cold air on the floor. In the case of air duct casings, it is not necessary to reweigh the batteries; you just need to extend the casings almost to the floor, leaving only a gap with a total area comparable to the cross-section of the casing. Then cold air from the floor will be sucked into the battery and sent upstairs. Here. Sorry if it's confusing, but so much of my life has to do with this fight against this damn cold! Over the past 1-2 years, our heating has accidentally become much better. This is due to the fact that our ruined buildings are being demolished one after another, and those who remain get more heat. But most of it adult life this was far from true! Good luck to everyone and warmth in the house! spock2004

P.S. If you buy or change batteries, think ten times about what type to get. I'm very skeptical about the new (relatively) aluminum batteries. Yes, they look nice. Yes, they have several larger area surface per unit volume occupied in the room. I don’t have statistics on corrosion, but purely theoretically they should corrode more than cast iron. Although, people don’t seem to be complaining much. People are complaining about something else. Aluminum batteries have rather narrow channels inside. This has two bad consequences. 1) They become clogged several times faster with the rubbish that the central heating water brings. 2) They work well only if high temperature water and/or its intensive circulation. And this is not always the case in the vast expanses of the former USSR (for example, I live in Ryazan). Let's just say that it doesn't happen more often than it happens. Of course, if you have a personal cottage with personal closed system heating, with circulation pump and a membrane expansion tank, then yes. Then you can use any batteries, even those stamped from thin steel sheet. And for ordinary apartments, where the “uncle” drowns (in the funny expression of my grandmother), I highly recommend the old Soviet cast iron ones! Well, or new Russians, but just as cast iron. They have very low hydraulic resistance, which creates very good conditions for water circulation. And a very large internal volume of this very water. Therefore, even if it takes many minutes to completely change the water in the battery (as it did for me), the batteries will still remain hot. As hot as they can be in a given heating system. Well, and, of course, they don’t get clogged with sediment for a long time (I had to cut “registers” from ten-centimeter pipes, where there was a narrow channel for water, and most of the volume was filled with this mixture of rust, oil, scale and God knows what). And another tip: don’t paint the batteries!!! There was a discussion above about what color to paint them. As far as I remember, the color of the surface only affects how it “bake”, and how it emits depends only on the temperature. I'm not sure about this, but that's what I think, sorry if I'm wrong. In any case, at a coolant temperature of 42 degrees, as in the article, radiation can be neglected; the main thing is heat transfer to the surrounding air. It needs to be strengthened. New battery It has a finely pimpled surface, repeating the unevenness of the molding earth, and is sprinkled with something red, purely symbolically. My advice: leave it like that! Heat transfer will be maximum. Microroughness also increases the surface area, and not just the fins. If it's already painted, stop and don't add any more! In homes with particularly fanatical mothers and grandmothers, the layer of paint on the batteries can reach millimeters. Needless to say, paint conducts heat much worse than cast iron. For beauty, it is better to wear the same casing. But now you can decorate it however you like! Good luck again! spock2004