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Modern construction experiencing a rebirth frame technologies. From wooden beam, edged boards and panel panels, houses and cottages are built that are not inferior in comfort and durability to buildings made from classical materials. The idea of ​​adding an extension to a frame house is attractive because to build a room attached to the house, you don’t need to bother with concrete and masonry blocks, you don’t need a modern construction equipment and most importantly, you can make most of the frame extension to a wooden house with your own hands, sometimes without even resorting to the services of assistants.

How to build a frame extension

The technology of frame construction involves the addition of edged timber and boards for the manufacture of a load-bearing frame. The methods for constructing individual parts, walls and roofs of a frame extension to a house are practically no different from the construction of conventional wooden frames for a barn gazebo or even a wooden house.

A frame extension to the house can be built in several options:

• A classic frame made of boards, slats and timber, reinforced with spacers and struts made of boards with insulation based on mineral wool or expanded polystyrene;
• A combined version of a power frame made of timber and SIP panels. The vast majority of construction companies build extensions from a frame using only panels and timber;
• Frame base made of timber, insulated with basalt wool and lined with siding. In this case, the skeleton of the walls and roof is made according to a reinforced design, and the finishing of the facade is selected to match the color and texture of the walls of the main building.

For your information! The use of a wooden frame and siding allows you to design the extension and the house into one whole. It is quite difficult to visually distinguish which part of the building is permanent and which is made in the form of an extension from a frame.

On the other hand, the use of siding sharply increases the load on the extension frame; you have to use more expensive lumber, buy chain link or lining for interior wall decoration, and pour a more massive foundation.

Construction based on a frame and siding is justified for rooms measuring no more than 3x5 m. Larger boxes are more economically advantageous to build from foam blocks, and the frame for small extensions is usually assembled from 70x90 mm timber and edged boards.

The main question of building an extension

The construction of any extension based on a wooden frame begins with the selection of a place for installing the attached premises and a rough marking of the future foundation is carried out. Correct selection of the foundation design guarantees the durability of the structure; simply copying the foundation structure, like the frame of a barn or wooden gazebo, most often ends in the breaking of the load-bearing posts and even the overturning of the extension.

On what basis to install the extension frame

Before installing frame extension When approaching the house, it is necessary to remove the turf and at least approximately determine the nature of the soil. The more clay, the stiffer and heavier the foundation of the extension frame should be.

Wooden buildings with load-bearing frame installed on the following types of foundation:

• Pile-grillage;
• Columnar;
• Tape shallow.

Most suitable option The foundation is determined by the degree of soil heaving in winter and the rigidity of the walls of the house. For a frame extension to a small wooden house, you can use a columnar foundation.

IN ideal the wooden frame of a small extension is installed on the same foundation as the house, this avoids problems with shrinkage and temperature fluctuations. The light weight of the extension has virtually no effect on the wooden walls of the main house.

It’s another matter if the room attached to the house has two floors, and the dimensions of the frame are only slightly smaller than the frame base of the house itself. In this case, the extension is installed on a strip foundation made of brick or concrete, since the timber frame, even reinforced with struts, is not rigid enough.

Pile supports for the extension frame

The strip foundation goes well with the wooden frame of the extension on relatively stable sandy and rocky soils; if it is necessary to install the attached premises on clay or water-logged soils, then the only option for the foundation will be a pile-grillage foundation.

Thanks to the use of piles, two serious problems can be solved:

• Avoid deformation of the frame, destruction of floor beams and strapping of racks due to soil heaving;
• Reduce flow and absorption of ground moisture wooden structures frame. The strip foundation has always been considered the “wet” and coldest.

The use of screw piles allows you to assemble an extension of any size, to almost any house, be it a brick, block or wooden structure. In this case, the frame extension to a wooden house turns out to be balanced in terms of horizontal loads, that is, in case of strong wind or soil pressure, the foundation is sufficiently rigid so as not to load the main building.

Piles can be screwed or poured in close proximity to the foundation of the building, since there are no deep trenches, and the supports are “softly” screwed into the ground, the risk of damaging the foundation of the house is minimized.

For small rooms, the frame structure can be installed on cheaper asbestos-cement pipes in order to reliably tie the skeleton of future walls and floors to the supports, wire or anchor bolts are embedded in the pipe heads.

Strip foundation of the extension

The scheme for constructing a strip foundation for a room attached to a house is practically no different from a standard MZL foundation. The only difference is that the width of the tape is made quite thin, no more than the width of the strapping beam. It makes no sense to make it wider, since the concrete strip has a safety margin an order of magnitude greater than what is required to hold the extension frame. The foundation for a frame extension to a house is built with your own hands, photo, in two full working days

The foundation base must be glued roll waterproofing and is laid with a strapping beam, to which vertical posts, struts or SIP panels will be attached.

Next comes the process of filling the subfloor with boards, insulation and waterproofing of the attached room is carried out at the final stage, and in the meantime, a panel of boards is laid for ease of assembling the frame of the extension. After assembling the frame structure, logs will be laid on the strapping beam and then a decision will be made on how to cover the floor with boards or OSB boards.

We build the walls and roof of a frame room

The bottom frame beam is sewn to the pile or strip foundation using anchor bolts. First, the insertion is carried out at the corners of the extension and only after marking the installation points vertical racks are looking for free place for anchors.

External walls of the extension frame

The extension frame can be assembled in two ways. The first option involves the formation of external walls using a series of vertical posts made of timber, connected to each other by jumpers of their boards and scraps. The heads of the racks are necessarily connected by an upper frame beam, which will subsequently serve as the basis for forming the ceiling and roof of the extension. All elements of jumpers between posts, joints and mutual insertion wooden elements the frame must be reinforced with mounting metal plates.

The frame cells are filled with mineral wool mats or covered with sheet EPS, after which a lath is filled to remove condensation and a film vapor barrier is laid. The internal and external surfaces of the frame walls are sheathed with OSB or clapboard.

Particular attention must be paid to the corner posts of the frame and the equestrian openings. Most often along the corner seam line in winter time Intensive freezing of condensate occurs due to the presence of a cold bridge. To prevent the internal corners of the room from becoming damp, the frame is supplemented with a simple casing made of two boards stuffed onto slats.

The second option for forming a frame is used for the construction of extensions large sizes. Instead of forming the outer frame in the traditional cellular way, only the corner posts are built, the beams of the upper and lower trim are laid, and the walls of the extension are assembled from ready-made SIP panels. Next, the beams are sewn interfloor covering and ceiling. As a result, the main load is carried by several massive racks made of 150x200mm timber, while the walls and ceilings remain as if suspended.

Important! Regardless of the method of assembling the frame between the walls of the building and the attached premises, a expansion joint, which is filled with insulation and rubbed with silicone.

The joints and seams between the SIP panels are glued with acrylic paste, after which you can proceed to the construction of the roof frame.

Assembling the rafter system

It takes approximately half of the working time planned for the construction of the extension to assemble the roof truss frame. The simplest option involves making gable roof coaxial with the roof of the main building. To simplify the articulation of two rafter systems, the height of the extension is chosen 60-70 cm lower than the vertical size of the house. In this case, the roof simply rests against the gable of the house.

If an additional room was added to the side wall of the house, then the main axes of the rafter systems form parallel lines. To prevent a dead zone from forming between the slopes, the attached room is used pitched roof articulated by rafters with the load-bearing elements of the house, as in the diagram.

The most complex option for joining the frames of two rafter systems is shown in the photo.

Such joining options present a certain complexity even for experienced carpenters, so such roofs are usually ordered turnkey from construction companies. The main problem is ensuring tightness roofing in the area where the ridge beam enters the rafter frame of the house. The wooden skeleton of the attached room will shrink within six months, as a result of which the abutment zone collapses and opens even when reinforced with metal aprons.

Conclusion

Frame technology for arranging an attached room allows you to build a box quickly enough and without unexpected costs for repairing the foundation or correcting the masonry. Today, frame houses and extensions are considered the most promising construction option, so many companies and organizations have begun producing ready-made attached premises with the possibility of pre-ordering and manufacturing up to 70% of the necessary components. Such a set will only need to be delivered to the site and assembled like a children's construction set.

A do-it-yourself extension to a house is a common way to increase living space. In truth, we have it as a legacy of the times when the state’s attitude to individual housing construction was expressed by the principle “Saving drowning people is the work of the drowning people themselves.” Back then, in privately built areas, there were shacks, the sight of which would give nightmares to sworn surrealists.

However, the expansion of housing with extensions has always been everywhere and remains relevant today as a means of avoiding unbearable credit bondage for many years. There are ways, but they are beyond the power of a large family nest - construction costs relative to the size of the building grow according to a power law. However, build a house first minimum sizes, as long as you can live, and then, as needed, make an extension to the house, and another, and another, quite possibly on your own budget. Moreover, a house overgrown with correctly executed extensions can be more comfortable, more beautiful and better integrated into the surrounding environment than the original one, see fig.:

Just keep in mind that the construction of the extension is organizationally and technically more complex than the main building. Why? Because the extension affects it in various ways, see below. In conditions where private housing is fully legalized and insured, the accident rate caused by the extension is unacceptable. That's why the cost of a square turnkey extension will be significantly more expensive than a new building, and an independent developer will face specific problems. This article is written about which ones, from which side to approach their solution, where to look for the optimum and how to build an extension correctly.

Organizational issues

Self-developers, of course, are primarily interested in: is it really possible to legitimize a self-built extension? If the residential building is already a legalized squatter building, then it is unrealistic. Self-construction is legitimized based on the results of the building’s operation. Roughly speaking - is it worth it? And screw him, let him continue standing. But shish with him and shish with him already gives something like “fuck him…”, because... there are no reference initial parameters to determine the future fate of the structure. Self-construction is legalized once and for all, and the negative consequences of the extension may take 10 years or more to affect. That is, the owner, a quarrelsome and quarrelsome person, has a formal reason for counterclaims: yeah, they legitimized it incorrectly! Well, compensate! Which is also completely unrealistic, but you can drink blood and shake your and other people’s nerves to your heart’s content.

Note: for a “complete self-construction” of a house with an extension, the only option for legalization is to delay the legalization of the main building until the extension is ready, and then legalize everything together.

As for old standard housing or built according to an approved project, the possibility of legitimizing an unauthorized extension to it depends on its type and design, see below. There are no extensions that are automatically legalized. Therefore, no matter how it was built an old house, planning to settle down, be prepared to follow the trail. epic:

• Geological surveys at the construction site and inspection of the main structure;
• Obtaining permission from the land owner (if the area under the house is rented);
• Obtaining permission from neighbors for construction;
• Design of an extension, independently or to order by specialists;
• Approval of the project by a licensed construction organization, firefighters, sanitation workers, electricians, and utility workers. Most often combined with paragraphs. 1 and 4 by order from a licensed construction company, it’s cheaper and faster;
• Obtaining a building permit from the local municipality - at an architectural office, at a meeting of the village/township council. It is also possible to combine with paragraphs. 1, 4 and 5. This is called a turnkey project or an anchored project;
• Construction;
• Acceptance of the structure by representatives of the authority that issued the permit;
• Renewal of contracts with utility companies for increased living space;
• Re-registration of housing with increased living space in the cadastre and tax authorities.

Let's hope that the further material in the article will help you understand the proposed projects or even, if you have already built yourself and know how to use construction calculation programs, develop an extension project yourself. The specialists at licensed companies know their stuff: they’ll see that it’s been written correctly, ask a couple of questions, and they’ll give it a go.

Geology

Projects for extensions are developed based on the results of surveys on construction geology and an audit of the existing building, even if the house is standard. On-site surveys are not a cheap undertaking, but the extension will be reliable and will not reduce the reliability of the house if and only if, unlike a new building, the soil underneath is homogeneous and its basic properties are as close as possible to those under the house. To decide whether it’s even possible to settle into this place, in the area for the extension, soil samples are taken in advance with a garden drill from the same depth within 1-1.5 m with an envelope - in the corners and in the center. Sampling time is for real warm spring when the soil above dries out; in mid-latitudes – early May. There should be no rain for at least 3-4 days before sampling. Before sampling, wells are thoroughly cleaned of soil that has crumbled from above. Each sample is immediately poured into a glass jar with a tight-fitting lid; plastic bags are no good!

First, we evaluate the heaving, subsidence and load-bearing properties of the soil by visual inspection of samples; under the house and the extension they must match to within a class. For example, a house on dry, non-heaving and low-subsidence sandy loam with a bearing capacity less than normal 1.7 kgf/sq. cm. And 2 m from the wall, i.e. under the proposed extension there is also non-heaving, but completely non-sagging cartilage or gravel with a load-bearing capacity that is obviously greater than normal. You can't fit in. Or, let’s say, instead of cartilage, dry silty sand, not heaving, but more subsident and weakly load-bearing; The result is the same.

Note: add to the house with your own hands if the bearing capacity of the soil on the site is less than 1.7 kgf/sq. cm, as well as on moderately, strongly and excessively heaving soils, subsidence and/or excessively watered by unauthorized construction without a project, it is categorically not recommended. At best, no one will ever legitimize such an extension in an honest manner. At worst, you will irreparably damage your old home.

If no visible differences are found in the samples that impede construction, we evaluate the homogeneity of the basic properties of the soil, including its water content and plasticity, in a comprehensive manner, based on relative humidity. For this:

1. We weigh the enameled steel vessel and write down its weight Vp.
2. Pour part of the sample into the container, immediately weigh it, and record the initial gross weight Ext.
3. Heat the container with the sample over low heat until the soil crumbles into dust, i.e. will not dry completely.
4. We also immediately weigh the container with the sample and record the final gross weight Vk.
5. We calculate the initial and final net weights of the sample Рн = Вн – Вп; Rk = Vk – Vp.
6. We calculate the relative humidity of the sample as H = 1 – (Rk/Rn).

For example, the initial net weight of the sample is 440 g, and the final net weight is 365 g. Its relative humidity will be 1 - (365/440) = 1 - 0.83 = 0.17 or 17%. The H values ​​for all samples must coincide to within 10 percentage points (percentage of percent), if self-construction is planned, or up to 20 percentage points, if the project is developed by specialists and approved as expected. Let's say all samples gave moisture values ​​of 17%, 18.7%, 16%, 16.5% and 19%. Deviation is calculated from least values ​​and its permissible value will be 1.6% for self-construction, and 3.2% for project construction. In this case, self-construction is impossible; geology must be ordered and a project developed.

Technical problems

The first thing you need to know here is There are no prefabricated extensions. The foundation of even the lightest extension must last at least a year before construction continues, and the foundation of a massive residential extension - from 2 years, depending on the results of measurements of its horizontalness, see below. In general, an extension to a private house can affect its condition according to the following. factors:

• Soil mechanics - the old house on the foundation has already settled, but the extension is yet to do so.
• Structural mechanics - an extension adjacent to or attached to a house will transfer to the structure of the existing building both loads during settlement of the extension, as well as operational weight, wind and snow loads. The design of the extension (see below) must be coordinated in terms of construction mechanics not only with the expected loads, but also with the design of the main building.
• Thermal engineering - an extension at any stage of its construction should not disturb the existing thermal balance under the existing building.
• Technological - parts of the extension will have to be attached to the structure of the main building. It is also possible to make openings in its load-bearing walls. Both should not weaken the main structure.

Special mention should be made about heating engineering. A properly built house does not sway from year to year in accordance with seasonal soil movements, even on a shallow foundation. A warm pit is formed under it - an area where the ground temperature does not fall below zero. The blind area around the house expands the warm pit to the sides, which is useful in all cases and makes it much easier to connect the extension to the house. The extension, in turn, so that the house does not lose stability, must smoothly and gradually, without hesitation back and forth, pull the “tongue” of the warm pit under itself. This trace is achieved. way:

1. The foundation of the extension is laid in the spring with the arrival of real warmth.
2. If the foundation of the extension is columnar or piled (see below), then immediately after laying it, a base is built around the perimeter of the extension; maybe temporary, from slate fragments, etc.
3. It is also very, very advisable to immediately make a blind area on a sand and gravel bed around the perimeter of the extension.
4. The foundation is filled with expanded clay flush with the base.
5. A temporary shelter from precipitation with gentle slopes is constructed over a foundation filled with insulation, for example. from film on poles.
6. Construction continues no earlier than a year after the foundation is laid.

Note: the indicated difficulties in geology and design of the extension do not apply to country houses, because They are legally uninhabited. The rule still applies here: the developer’s problems are the developer’s problems. However, if dacha buildings are subject to real estate taxes, they will have to be converted into residential ones. The consequence is that if you are planning to move from the city to the countryside forever, now is the time to fully equip the country house for housing, incl. and outbuildings. Then the authorities will not go anywhere, they will have to legitimize everything that is set up as is, as long as it stands.

About materials

One of the factors that excludes the legalization of any unauthorized construction is the non-compliance of the materials used with the requirements of SNiP. In safety rules in any industry, the principle of the presumption of innocence does not apply, and it is impossible to prove later that you are not a camel, and that the camel is not you. Therefore, take materials for the extension from certified sellers and, in addition sales receipt, request a copy of the manufacturer's certificate for the material. An exception is used red brick, if it has been inspected and certified for use in the material statement for the project by a specialist from the design organization.

Types of extensions

Options for making extensions to a house are shown in Fig.: non-residential (unheated and not insulated) open, non-residential closed, residential light and residential massive. Only electricity can be supplied to non-residential extensions from communications through a separate circuit breaker and RCD (residual current device). The light residential extension is also supplied with only electricity, but this can be done from the general house network. Heating – local stove or electric, for example, heated floor; in this case, you need a separate automatic circuit breaker and an RCD for heating. Any communications are connected to the massive residential extension without additional restrictions.

Connection with home

The next important factor in the classification of extensions is the degree of their connection with the main structure. Based on connectivity, extensions are divided into:

• Remote - spaced from the house at a distance of at least 3 depths deeper than the entire laid foundation, incl. pile If, for example, the house is on a strip buried 1.6 m deep, and the bathhouse nearby is on piles driven 2.2 m deep, then it should be at least 6.6 m away from the house.
• Adjacent - not meeting the criterion of remoteness, but not having a complete mechanical connection with the house, i.e. The foundation of the extension is separate, there are walls on it on all sides, incl. and facing the house. Most often, in order to save land, materials and work, they are built adjacent to the house and under a common roof with it. Self-construction with subsequent legalization is possible if the foundation of the extension is chosen and laid correctly, see above and below. All types of extensions, except massive residential ones, can be built adjacent to them.
• Connected - having at least one common load-bearing wall and/or common branch/section of the foundation tape with the house. Massive warm extension to the house is carried out only in connection with the main building. The legalization of self-construction is unlikely; in fact, it is a question of your relationship with local authorities and their attitude towards you.

Residential extensions to houses are most often built adjacent, and missing communications are installed after acceptance - who will check if the house is standing and people live in it? The tax office and utility workers will still count theirs for the living space. The strip foundation of the adjacent extension is made with a deformation gap of 6-12 mm between it and the foundation of the house, filled with roofing felt, fiberglass and other insulators, but in this case this is not optimal. A gap of 30 mm between the adjacent walls of the house and the extension is caulked with pre-compressed sealing tape (PSUL) and covered with decorative overlays along the outside contour. It seems to be cheap and cheerful, especially if the extension is structurally lightweight (see below), but there are no eternal sealants. In the conditions of the central zone of the Russian Federation, after 10-12 years, dampness begins to accumulate in the gap between the adjacent walls, and it becomes the source of destruction of the entire house. Therefore, builders specializing in extensions give a 5-year guarantee for adjacent ones, as they say, right away. Please keep this in mind if you order a turnkey extension.

Note: PSUL must be used immediately, because once unpacked, it begins to swell irreversibly.

About remote extensions

A remote extension completely eliminates the specific organizational and technical difficulties of the extension, because According to all laws and rules, it is a separate building. The foundation of a remote extension can be anything, incl. non-recessed insulated, for example. , and the structure on it can be prefabricated of any type. The remote extension is connected to the house by a covered, insulated gallery on a columnar base or hanging on beams. Both are not considered a mechanical connection to the house.

A remote extension is especially beneficial if you need to add a kitchen. Increased heat loss from the premises in this case is insignificant, but the living rooms are reliably insulated from kitchen fumes and high humidity. And most importantly, in private housing with a kitchen they often block the furnace/boiler room or simply install/hang a heating boiler in the kitchen. Its removal from residential premises greatly reduces possible dangers from autonomous heating; the likelihood of burning when burning solid fuel is practically reduced to nothing. In addition, it facilitates the location of residential buildings and local sewerage structures on the site in accordance with sanitary standards.

Note: in the West and in countries gravitating towards it, many are now keen on remote extensions with panoramic glazing, even if there is plenty of space in the old house, see fig.:

By default, a toilet, bathroom, and a married bedroom are transferred to such an aquarium; sometimes even a children's room. Hanging curtains is considered a disregard for Euro-liberal values ​​and a tendency towards totalitarianism, extremism, terrorism, separatism, etc. In psychiatry, the way of thinking that gives rise to this tendency is called exhibitionism and is a symptom of a lush bouquet of various mental disorders.

Foundations

The influence of the extension on the main structure is most affected through the foundation, so special attention should be paid to its selection and placement in the ground. For adjacent extensions or wood or foam blocks, the optimal choice is or. Adjacent extensions are not built of brick or monolithic. Both options will avoid direct contact of the base of the extension with the foundation of the house and will greatly reduce the likelihood of moisture accumulation in the gap between the walls. The foundation grillage is made of timber from 200x200 for wooden buildings or welded steel from an I-beam or channel with an upper flange not narrower than the thickness of the wall.

A columnar foundation for an extension is suitable on non-heaving or slightly heaving, non-subsiding and not overly watered normally bearing soils. On all other soils, you need to choose a foundation on screw piles, and God forbid you think about driven, pressed and eroded piles - in this case, a violation of the stability of the main structure is guaranteed! Standard installation spacing of pillars/piles is 1.2-1.7 m; The foundation design is also standard.

Under the "capital"

In most cases, a massive residential extension requires a strip foundation of normal depth (at least 0.6 m below the standard freezing depth), securely connected to the base of the building. And again, God forbid you have to match the foundations as shown on the left in the figure! This is only permissible on non-freezing, dense, non-subsidence soils!

In the conditions of the Russian Federation, the pairing of the foundations of the house and the extension must be done with a tooth and anchor ties (in the center in the figure); The capacity of the anti-heave cushion under the foundation of the extension is 15 cm of gravel and 15 cm of sand. The trench for the foundation needs a trapezoidal profile with anti-heaving bedding sand and gravel mixture, as for a brick foundation for an extension of a half-timbered structure (see below). The tooth is reinforced in 2 levels steel reinforcement 14-16 mm.

The anchors connecting the foundations are made from the same reinforcement. The installation pitch is 30-40 cm horizontally and vertically. The placement of anchors in both foundations is 25-30 cm. In the old foundation, holes are drilled for the anchors, into which the anchors are walled up. The anchors are connected to the reinforcement frame of the foundation of the extension by tying with wire, in no case by welding! The foundation must be poured in such a way that before the outside temperature drops to +15 degrees and below, it gains at least 75% strength.

The foundation of the extension with the tooth is maintained until construction continues for 2 years. In the first year, immediately after the tape gains strength, its deviation from horizontality is measured in mm/m. After a year, the measurements are repeated. The foundation is stable - we finally level it to the horizon and build further. No, we wait another year. It hasn’t “settled down” in 4 years - alas, there was a mistake with the geology, the soil is too fluid. It is urgent to take measures to strengthen it before the old house collapses.

On non-heaving, well-bearing soils, it is permissible to build an adjacent or massive residential extension made of foam/gas blocks on a shallow strip foundation(MZLF) or on a non-buried strip with the initial excess of the extension foundation. To calculate the required excess of the new tape, you need to know the coefficients of soil subsidence at the construction site, the available sand and gravel of the foundation cushion under the weight of the tape. General reference books are not helpful in this case, because... subsidence coefficients for materials from different quarries may differ by a value too large for the foundation to be built on.

The small strip for the extension is first poured with a gap between it and the old foundation. At the ends of the tape reinforcement and anchors in the old foundation, elastic loops are bent (on the right in the figure) and welded. A year later, it is checked whether the foundation has stabilized (see above). If yes, the initial gap is filled, and after gaining strength with a concrete plug, you can build further.

Designs and materials

Here you need to know, firstly, that it is possible to build extensions from SIP only on non-subsidence, non-heaving soils of high bearing capacity. A structure made of SIP is a very rigid box. Settled faster than the old house, it will inevitably tear itself away from it.

Secondly, it is possible to make extensions from foam/gas blocks, but you will have to wait a year or two with the finishing, external and internal. Reverse action this rule does not have: it is impossible to mechanically attach any residential extensions to foam concrete houses; You can only add adjacent ones. The fact is that the foam/aerated concrete in the extension will give many small, non-through cracks as it settles. They are not dangerous and will not reduce the strength of the structure, but they will have to be sealed before finishing. To prevent the foam/gas block structure from becoming saturated with moisture during curing, the extension box will need to be wrapped in film.

Third, in our time, brick is not a suitable material for an extension; Not suitable for self-building at all. A heavy, massive brick extension will certainly require strengthening the structure of the main house, unless it is an old merchant house with meter-long walls. There are calculators on the RuNet for calculating brick extensions; an example is given in Fig. As we see, in addition to strengthening the wall, which is already difficult, expensive and labor-intensive, we also need load-bearing partition in a certain place so that the settling extension does not tear the house in half. And what if the partition is in the bedroom, or, worse, the kitchen or toilet?

Finally, the main construction material The extension should not be stronger than that of the old house. Recommendations to build from the same material as the house are incorrect. If something goes wrong and the extension shrinks more than is permissible, it is better to disconnect it and let it be destroyed than to risk the main housing.

To the dacha

Extension to country house for the reasons stated above, it can be made as light as possible, the so-called. cantilever-support. A diagram of a light extension of this type is shown in Fig. Its connection with the roof (see below) is absent, and the base is located far from the house, and there is nothing to be afraid of its influence on the foundation. At the same time, the supports take a significant part of the load from the consoles, so this extension can even be attached to the wall of a frame house (any others are unacceptable) through backing boards from 150x40. The main thing is that the attachment points fall on the vertical ribs of the frame. If the location of the frame elements is known, then it is possible and even better to fasten through the load-bearing (working) sheathing; It is enough to remove the exterior finishing and insulation. Material of support pillars – timber from 150x50; the rest is 150x40 board. The permissible extension of the roof consoles is 2.5 m for a frame house, 3.5 m for a timber house and 4.5 m for a brick house.

A cantilever-supported extension to a house can be the basis for a garage, terrace (veranda without a floor), greenhouse, etc. With a cantilever-support, you can attach a veranda and even a “conditional living” (insulated) room. In this case, the floor is made completely floating on a columnar base, i.e. the frame made of timber on which the logs rest is not connected either to the house or to the extension; a gap along the contour of 20-30 mm is covered with a plinth. Thus, 3 independent bases are obtained: the foundation of the house, a “chessboard” of columns for the floor, and pillars (or tape) under the console supports.

Half-timbered

Many people make light extensions to houses with frames due to the elasticity of this structure and its negligible effect on the main structure. However, if the extension affects the house, then it also affects it. The elastic limit of frame structures with working cladding is not unlimited and drops sharply with increasing removal of the load-bearing elements of the frame extension. While it is possible to attach a porch to a house without any problems, the probability of destruction due to settlement of an extension more than 3 m wide is high.

The best option wooden extension to any house will be half-timbered. The half-timbered technology was originally an extension technology: it was born in medieval cities, constrained by defensive walls. There, each house was an extension to the neighboring ones. The difference between half-timbered technology and frame technology is that there is no working cladding; all the loads are taken by the timber frame. The cladding, external and internal, can be of any kind.

An extension to a half-timbered wooden house made of timber from 200x200 on a strip foundation with a tooth (top left in the figure) practically does not additionally load the main structure. Its complete connection with the house, cladding and final finishing are carried out a year or two after the construction of the frame using wood screws with a diameter of 8-12 mm in increments of 450-600 mm. Sealing along the mating contour - PSUL. Timber-framed extension to stone house can be without jibs 2-storey under panoramic glazing, top right. Fastening to the main structure - M8-M10 bolts in collet anchors with a pitch of 4 rows of masonry; placing anchors in the wall - 300 mm. The seal is the same.

Half-timbered technology is especially good if you need to add a bathroom or bathhouse to your house: many budget developers initially make do with a miniature combined bathroom or corner shower in the kitchen. Well, if your soul is yearning to soak in a bath or steam to your heart’s content, then timber impregnated with a water repellent in addition to biocide and fire retardant is on sale. A simple unimpregnated timber can be made moisture resistant by impregnating it with mining or, twice, with a water-polymer emulsion. In this case, sheathing and insulation are made from any suitable materials, without worrying about its structural strength.

An example of the design of a half-timbered frame for an extension to a house is given at the bottom left in Fig. There in the center and on the right are the structures of the key components of the 2-story half-timbered structure. An unpleasant feature of the half-timbered technology for fans of “quick construction” is that it is impossible to connect frame elements with steel fasteners, as in a frame house with working cladding. At the crossroads, the beams cut into half the tree, and at the ends they are connected into a spike, a paw or a swallow's tail. Each connection is secured with a dowel - tightly driven into it in advance. drilled hole through round pin made of solid fine-grained wood with a diameter of approx. 30 mm.

Foundations for half-timbered buildings

Half-timbered buildings also require a special foundation: columnar and pile structures accept loads too unevenly for half-timbered structures, and the concrete strip is too rigid for it. The foundation for a half-timbered extension is laid with brick or rubble (see figure on the right). The latter is better: well-annealed red brick in moist, acidic or alkaline soil begins to deteriorate within 40-50 years, although in neutral, not over-moistened soil it lasts for centuries; dry-molded silicate or face bricks are generally unsuitable for underground structures. The shelf life of a rubble foundation made of granite, diorite, gabbro and other dense heavy rocks is practically unlimited.

M12-M16 anchor bolts are walled into the foundation for the half-timbered structure to fasten a grillage made of timber from 200x200. The pitch of foundation anchors is 400-600 mm. Waterproofing the grillage - 2-4 layers of roofing material or glass rubite. The lower frame of the actual half-timbered frame is attached to the grillage with dowels (or wood screws). After its installation, the frame is assembled on the wall of the house, and then the remaining elements are mounted. Thus, it is possible to routinely repair a half-timbered frame on an excessively sagging foundation by knocking out wedges, etc. This is a unique opportunity of the half-timbered technology, although it is still necessary to maintain the foundation for a year before continuing construction.

Half-timbered buildings and shields

The half-timbered technology is labor-intensive and requires a lot of expensive material. If a one-story extension to a house made of timber is proposed, incl. warm residential, then it is possible to get by with simplified frame-panel technology, which was born at the same time. In this case, the timber frame is built from the upper and lower harness with corner posts; the spans are filled with shields on a plank frame, which are attached to the main frame with wood screws, and fastened together with steel plates from 80x40x4.

The design of the shield frame of a combined frame extension made of boards from 120x40 is shown in Fig. on right. The height of the sections can be increased to 900-100 mm in accordance with the height of the ceiling; if it is higher than 3 m, the number of sections increases. Window and door sections are made without miters; they should not be adjacent to each other and should not be close to the corners, i.e. on both sides of the frame with the opening there should be frames with jibs. If interior lining If the sheet is strong enough, rigid and elastic (plywood from 16 mm, OSB), then you can do without internal jibs (shown by filling in the figure).

Roof connection

The own weight and climatic loads on the roof tend to flatten it and distribute it to the sides, for which purpose roof trusses and cross-links are provided - crossbars. The asymmetry of vertical loads caused by the presence of an extension on the side disrupts the entire operation of the roof and can lead to its failure. The common scheme in RuNet for connecting the roofs of a house and an extension (top left in the figure) not only requires excess material, but also does not eliminate the asymmetry of the load on the old roof. Moreover, excess wind loads are transferred to the most vulnerable part existing roof- her ridge knot. It is also unacceptable to distort the old rafter structure (above right) for the sake of interfacing with the extension, even if the house has a Siberian attic that strengthens the roof.

The correct design for connecting the roofs of the house and the side extension is shown at the bottom left in Fig. The highlight here is the beveled snow supports: from additional load of any kind they seem to push the wings old roof inward, preventing them from spreading. Further, thanks to the rigidity of the resulting force triangles (filled in red), a significant part of the additional loads is transferred to the mauerlat (rafter) of the extension, which can be calculated in advance for them, and the excess loads on the mauerlat of the old roof do not exceed the permissible value.

Note: If the extension is made of foam/aerated concrete, which does not hold the mortgages well, then the mauerlat of the extension must be made according to all the rules for building houses made of foam concrete, and the anchors of the mauerlat must be laid in the wall for 3-4 rows of masonry.

About roofing

When constructing a side extension to the house, the old roof deck needs to be dismantled (bottom right in the figure above) and the roof re-roofed. Match the roofs of the house and the extension as shown in Fig. right, you can't. Golden Rule roofing work: the overlying decking elements must overlap the underlying ones to prevent water from flowing in. And do it as shown there - no matter how wise you are with the seal, valleys, canopies, gutters, the roof will leak.

No roofing work

Much simplify complex and responsible roofing or you can get rid of them altogether if you build an extension from the pediment (on the left in the figure). A front extension often better matches the layout and architecture of the house, and on a narrow plot this is often the only option.

However, when building an extension from the front, another problem arises: access to it, for which you will have to make an opening in the load-bearing wall. IN frame houses This is completely unacceptable. For a timber frame, a calculation is needed: will the house move apart? In any case, at least 3-4 lower crowns must be left intact in the wall, counting from the grillage; perhaps the passage to the annex will be in the threshold. In a frame-panel wall, you can choose to fill any of the panels without touching the frame frame, as long as there are panels with jibs on both sides. A diagram of a doorway in a solid brick wall is shown on the right in Fig. It is generally carried out as follows. order:

1. On both sides of the wall, grooves are cut for the steel reinforcement box;
2. the embedded parts of the front and rear parts of the box are installed in place and welded into frames;
3. the opening is selected gradually and alternately on both sides of the wall, carefully, without strong beating or pressure;
4. Anchor rods under transverse ties are walled into the ends of the opening;
5. The ties are welded to the anchors and frames of the boxes.

Since doorways in stone load-bearing walls are a responsible matter, watch another video on how to make an opening in a brick wall:

Video: opening in a brick wall to access the extension

and in no way possible:

Last note: In load-bearing walls made of foam/aerated concrete, it is impossible to make an opening for passage into the attached residential extension in addition to the original design ones. If there is no significant additional load on the wall (exit to the outside, into a non-residential or residential adjacent extension), upper horizontal mortgages 1.75-1.9 m long are needed. Alas.

Many homeowners dream of building an extension to their home. It can be anything: a gazebo, a veranda, and sometimes even additional living space. This article will talk in detail about how to register an extension to a house, what documents are required for this, as well as what problems you may encounter at any time.

What is a house extension?

To begin with, it would be worth understanding what exactly a residential extension is. The law, namely the Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation, says that an extension is the reconstruction of an existing housing facility. The extension is not included in the original architectural plans, but, on the contrary, is considered a secondary structure to the main object. An additional building, contrary to popular belief, is not always a small object in comparison with the main dwelling. An extension can be of absolutely any size, regardless of the number of floors, area, height, etc. The concept under consideration is rather legal, since it is closely related to the registration and registration processes.

There are many reasons why home owners want to build an extension. Someone wants to create additional living space, someone is correcting the architectural mistakes of the property, and someone wants to build a cozy corner in the form of a veranda or summer gazebo. One way or another, any such extension requires strict documentation and proper legalization. Of course, some citizens decide to ignore the registration process, and therefore an unauthorized extension can legally be demolished. To prevent this, it is necessary to follow a number of simple rules, which will be discussed below.

Non-permanent extensions

As already mentioned, the extension can be absolutely any object; the main requirement here is a direct connection with the main structure. And, nevertheless, there are some classifications that allow you to better understand what kind of house extension projects exist. One of the classifications will be given below.

There are permanent and non-permanent buildings. Non-major extensions are small changes made to the main architectural design. These are such minor elements as:

• porch, new entrance to the house;
• showcase, various projections;
• stairs, small sheds;
• balconies or terraces.

Designing a non-permanent extension is quite simple. You don’t even need to take out special permits before starting the construction process. All you need is to make some changes to technical documents. Among other things, non-permanent extensions include:

• A garage, if it is being built on the territory of a gardeners' partnership, or on land that does not belong to a capital construction project.
• Construction of auxiliary buildings. It is difficult to say what can be included here; even the Russian Supreme Court has not fully clarified this. Most likely, auxiliary outbuildings include sheds, small fortifications for something, hanging objects and other non-residential buildings.
• Construction of buildings that do not affect general designs or communications.

All of the above objects are non-capital and therefore do not require special permission for construction.

House extension projects: capital type

Now it’s worth talking about what capital construction projects are. The Town Planning Code of the Russian Federation regulates the norm according to which construction work on the construction of additional capital-type facilities must comply with the original standards (those that have been preserved since the construction of the house itself). Capital extensions include objects in which further residence is planned. At the same time, additional land area is required for the construction of such objects.

The question of how to design an extension to the house will be somewhat different in this case - depending on who exactly is the owner of the home. Thus, all responsibility for the construction of additional buildings should rest with the direct owners of the houses. However, there are situations when the house is divided into several families. How to act in similar situation, will be discussed further.

Registration of non-permanent construction

How to legalize a non-permanent extension? It's actually very easy to do this. First of all, you need to find a local technical inventory bureau (BTI). After this, a complete package of documentation for the house is collected, which should be taken to the above-mentioned authority. The bureau draws up a special application for amendments to technical house documents. This can be done both before the construction of the extension begins and after. The question of which of these two options is more convenient is obvious. The best option would be to design an already constructed non-capital type facility, because all the data is already known exactly, and major changes are unlikely to follow. But there is one small problem here. Although this is unlikely, the BTI may refuse permission for an extension. Of course, there must be serious reasons for this. That is why it is better to play it safe and coordinate the construction of a non-capital type facility in advance.

A special acceptance committee must come from the bureau to draw up a certificate of completion of the reconstruction. When the BTI returns the full package of documents, the issue can be considered resolved.

If there are several owners in the house, then a written agreement for an additional non-capital type object from each of the residents will be required.

Collection of documents for registration of a major extension

A house extension project can be called a reconstruction of an existing building. Legalizing a capital additional structure is not as simple as a non-permanent one. However, there is quite a lot a large number of options that can be acted upon legally. The most common and convenient way Registration of an additional object is a registration of “unauthorized construction”. We are talking about those cases when the registration of an object occurs after its construction.
To avoid problems, it’s worth calculating and preparing everything correctly. The following documents must be collected:

• statement of ownership of the land plot, as well as the house that needs to be reconstructed;
• technical passport and home ownership plan;
• cadastral plan of the site;
• a project for a permanent extension (this can be a plan, sketch, diagram - the main thing is that everything is correctly and clearly designed);
• written consent of other house owners for reconstruction;
• neighbors' consent to reconstruction;
• statements from resource supply organizations (water supply, energy, gas supply, etc.) that the reconstruction will be safe and will not create problems.

All documents are submitted to the local government authority. Sometimes the authority may request other documents, for example, from the fire department, architectural company, etc.

The process of registering a major extension

How to register an extension to a house? Having collected all the necessary documents and submitted them to the local government, you will have to wait for special consent for the reconstruction. In essence, this document provides the right to build an additional facility. If the construction is completed, a state commission is invited to inspect the constructed structure. Experts evaluate the construction for compliance with the original plan, sanitary standards, and architectural rules. Based on the results of the inspection, a conclusion of compliance will be issued, which will need to be submitted to the Technical Inventory Bureau (BTI). At this stage, all necessary changes will be made to the technical documentation of the structure.

With the received documentation you need to go to the Russian real estate register. This way the extension will be officially registered. Rosreestr will have to pay a fee for the entire registration process.

Thus, the entire process of registering a major extension is not so simple. In any case, you will have to “sweat” with documentation - regardless of what type of additional structure - be it summer extension, garage, covered living space etc.

Necessary documentation to legalize an unauthorized extension

Many residents solve the problem before it occurs, and some solve it after. Those who first built the object, and only then decided to formalize it, solve difficulties after they have occurred. How to register an extension to a house if it was built without permission? It’s worth noting right away that everything here is not as simple as with the construction of a non-capital type facility. The entire registration process will be decided through the courts. Whether it is convenient or not is up to each owner to decide individually.

If a permanent extension was erected, but the owner forgot about registration, then you will immediately have to prepare the following package of documents:

• contract of purchase, gift, inheritance, etc. - any document confirming ownership of housing;
• extract from the house register;
• housing permission for the construction of an extension;
• documentation from the BTI for the main object (to which the extension belongs);
• written agreement between neighbors;
• statements from public utilities (gas services, fire inspections, water supply companies, etc.);
• reconstruction project (sketches, drawings, etc.);
• photo of the house and extension.

If all the necessary documentation has been collected, you can finally ask yourself the question of how to arrange an extension to a private house.

Legalization of unauthorized extension

Brick extension, panel, open or closed - all this is completely unimportant; if a capital object was erected without premature registration, then it is called “unauthorized”, and registering it will not be so easy. The owner is obliged to collect all documents for the house, plans for the extension, and go with them to the local administration.
She will most likely refuse to register the object. This refusal will need to be addressed to the district court. The entire package of documents is also sent to the court, to which it is necessary to attach statement of claim. If the court is satisfied that all grounds for registration are present, the case will be won. The owner will pay the fee and register the extension with the BTI.

Possible problems

The process of registering an extension seems simple only at first glance. Of course, if we are talking about a non-capital additional facility, then everything will take shape relatively easily and quickly. If the owner of real estate is thinking about a major extension, then everything will be very long and difficult. Moreover, the process may even turn into complete hopelessness; Thus, an additional building may be demolished due to its recognition as illegal. In this case, the bailiffs will not care how many years the unregistered object stood, and whether it interfered with anyone or not.

Problems may also arise with neighbors. So, if the extension was built in accordance with all the rules and regulations, but for some reason the neighbors do not want to recognize it, the administration will most likely grant a legal refusal to register. How to avoid rejection? How to register an extension to a house without problems? Some tips will be provided below.

How to avoid problems?

To arrange a major extension without problems and all sorts of difficulties, you need to take into account a few simple rules. So, when an additional construction project is only in the project, it is necessary to agree in advance with all neighbors and owner-occupiers (if any). It will not be very pleasant to learn that the neighbors refuse to give consent to the construction of an extension when the plans are already ready.

When constructing an extension of any type, capital or non-capital, it is necessary to take into account the original design of the original structure. So, the extension must necessarily coincide with architectural features main living space. Otherwise, the BTI will simply refuse to register the extension. It is also important to pay attention to the following points:

• a complete package of documentation must be collected with permissions from various authorities attached to it;
• you need to check the ownership documents;
• it is desirable to eliminate all possible architectural violations at the original site, as well as to avoid mistakes during the construction of the extension;
• When constructing an additional facility (especially a capital type), only safe and certified building materials must be used.

Separately, it is worth noting the so-called dacha amnesty. The question of how to register an extension to a house under the dacha amnesty is currently not at all relevant. The fact is that the relevant provisions of the law of 2006 cause a lot of criticism due to their complexity and ill-conceivedness. The so-called simplified form of registration rather causes many problems and difficulties. Only persons who are members of partnerships and dacha cooperatives can pay attention to this form.

A home extension is an excellent solution for expanding the living or utility space in any type of home. It is important that all construction work, without exception, can be performed with your own hands.

Design Features

Most people buy or build housing based on the possibilities at this moment. But the owners are forced to build an extension to the house based on necessity or desire. The problem arises of how to arrange the necessary square meters so that it happens at an affordable price, correctly and thoroughly. Again, in order to save money, almost everyone prefers to construct it with their own hands.

Of course, this will require some abilities and construction skills, as well as an understanding of the technologies for performing the work, but nothing particularly complicated in this process No.

The assistance of professionals may be needed at the design stage of the building, in addition, when connecting communications inside the extension. In addition, some difficulties often arise when registering the design with the regulatory authorities. More often, placement is carried out for educational purposes additional room

, garage, veranda, terrace, storage room, porch. There are a large number of alternatives - everything will be determined based on your own needs and wishes.

The main thing is to competently implement the construction of the foundation, walls, roof and isolate the building from the influence of moisture, in addition, to correctly adjoin the new building to the main one.

A side extension with a connected roof is an acceptable and simple option, since it is only necessary to slightly extend the roof to the size of the extension. When choosing this type, additional square meters are simply added to the main building. Regardless of the materials used, it will be necessary to make an appropriate foundation. The extension can have all possible sizes, however, it is unnecessary large structures

even in large areas they will look unsightly. The choice of an extension with a separate roof will be relevant, as a rule, in those options if it is not possible to make a roof connected to the house yourself. In this case, the costs of building materials and time increase significantly. Main question

, as a rule, will consist in the construction of the foundation, since during the construction of the house it was unlikely that an extension would be completed in the future. For this reason, not any foundation, including the strongest one, can support an additional floor.

If we can confidently say that the foundation can withstand additional overloads, then before starting construction it is necessary to consult with professionals who can not only carry out any required calculations, but also give recommendations on how to strengthen the existing foundation themselves.

You can make an extension with your own hands from SIP panels, aerated concrete, aerated concrete blocks, metal and other materials, if you follow the recommendations of specialists. You can use a foundationless option or on piles. Today, the two-story corner design is quite popular. But in any case, you first need to prepare a drawing.

The construction method will depend largely on what design solutions are installed. Extensions to a building can be varied. It is important to establish, before construction begins, for what purposes the extension to the building is needed. From this, a decision will be made from what materials it will be made of, what the foundation will be, the presence or absence of communications, the amount and features of thermal and waterproofing, in addition, many other factors. For the construction of extensions, as a rule, timber, brick or foam blocks are used.

Of course, other building materials can be used in accordance with desires, however, these are considered the most popular.

Timber extension

The use of timber to build an extension is the optimal and acceptable option in almost all cases. In this case, it is possible to use any kind of timber - planed, glued, rounded. The characteristic features of the timber make it possible to complete all the work without exception with your own hands and in a short time.

The main advantage of timber is that its production is carried out on woodworking machines, therefore, every time it is possible to select the required form, based on personal requirements and wishes. In the factory, the timber is treated with specific compounds that ensure long-term resistance of the timber to various adverse influences. Regardless of the type of timber, the material is considered environmentally friendly.

If necessary, the outer part of the beam can be finished with all kinds of facing or finishing materials.

Brick extension

It should be noted that erecting a brick extension will require certain skills and some experience in bricklaying. Only with a competent approach and following all technologies can you correctly carry out high-quality installation yourself. Otherwise, professionals in bricklaying and similar materials should be hired to carry out the work.

The use of brick for the construction of an extension has some features. If in the future there are no plans to finish or cover the brick wall with other materials, then in this case it is preferable to build the extension on the back side of the building, because even if the brick extension has only one floor, it has an impressive weight, so before its construction you should think about pouring a strong foundation.

The material costs of building a brick extension are impressive, largely due to the need for a strong foundation and the invitation of professionals. It is quite difficult to connect the extension to the house accurately and only on your own.

Foam block extension

An extension made from foam blocks is extremely durable. This material will not require significant expenses and the use of additional thermal insulation materials. Using foam blocks to build additional rooms for a building yourself has several advantages.

There is no need to pour such a strong foundation as when using brick, since foam blocks, with fairly large volumes, have a relatively low mass. And also the use of such blocks will not require finishing the walls of the extension with thermal insulation, Such an extension can be built by yourself and much faster than from brick.

But it is worth noting that additional costs when using foam blocks may be necessary in order to protect the structure from various adverse influences. As a rule, siding or facing bricks, as well as other materials, are used for these purposes.

Frame extension

The construction of an extension on a frame basis is also considered an absolutely acceptable cost option that does not require significant cash outlay. The frame structure is built on the base metal beams or wood beams, which are installed according to a special technology. It is possible to do everything yourself, however, if there is a lack of skills in this industry, it is preferable to first consult with experts.

After completing the installation of the frame, the lining of the internal and external walls necessary building materials, such as MDF boards, chipboard and others.

One is often interested in the question of what additional elements are formed when installing an effective heat-insulating layer. In this case, the insulation can be polystyrene foam, thermal insulation boards, mineral wool, or sprayed insulators. In addition, regardless of the type, the thermal insulation is additionally insulated using moisture-proof insulating materials.

Ideas

It is worth paying attention to several creative ideas from professionals.

• Terrace. These extensions are popular in summer days. However, at the request of the owner, the structure can be insulated, equipped with windows and used in winter. Verandas can be constructed from any materials, including brick, foam blocks and wood.
• Boiler room. If the house was planned from the very beginning as a summer building, then it may not take into account the space for heating devices. In this case, you should add a place to install heating equipment.
• Bathroom. This type of extension is mainly used in villages, namely in country houses that were not previously equipped with a bathroom. In this case, the room needs to be completed in order to improve amenities. TO brick house the extension can be made from any building materials.
• Living rooms They are being added to in order to expand the living area. In some cases, the size of this type of extension may be larger than the size of the primary structure. Brick or blocks, or less often wood, are used as a building material for the construction of this type of room.
• Garage are being added to the building in order to save money due to the possibility common wall or for the purpose of heating a building for a car with a general heating system. When building a garage, most people use frame construction and brick.
• Bathhouse. This extension is usually attached to a house or cottage. In this case, they have a common wall. For this type of structure, logs are generally used.

Construction Guide

Calculations

Before starting construction of an extension to a building, it must be formally legalized by a special authority, regardless of its purpose. Carry out calculations and make estimates required material and finding out the cost of the future structure are the initial tasks. For these purposes, you can contact specialists or calculate everything yourself. To calculate the material, it is necessary to calculate the quadrature of the extension.

The calculation is made using the following formula:(perimeter) x (height) = total square footage of the room.

But if windows and doors are planned for the extension, then they need to be subtracted from the total quadrature, namely:(total quadrature of the room) – ((height of the window opening x width) x per quantity + (height of the doorway x width) x quantity) = quadrature for calculating the amount of building materials.

Choosing a type of structure

There are a number of well-known types of extensions. According to statistics, the most common extensions are the following:

• side extension with connected or separate roof;
• superstructure in the form of an attic;
• second floor.

How to build?

To make an extension to a brick house, you should adhere to the following algorithm of actions:

• Construction should begin by marking the territory. For this purpose, the top layer of soil is removed, the area is leveled and markings are made;
• then mark the boundaries of the extension in accordance with the plan. Pegs are driven into the corners of the future building and the cord is pulled;
• every building requires solid foundation Houses. It is not recommended to combine the foundation for construction with the main building, since they have different levels shrinkage;
• a distance of about 5 cm should be maintained between the foundation of the building and the extension;
• When building the foundation, you need to take into account the intended weight of the structure and the properties of the soil. When built on soft ground, the base of the house is likely to shift, which can lead to separation of the extension from the walls of the building. A lightweight foundation cannot withstand the weight of brick walls; for this reason, it is not recommended to build a brick extension on such a foundation. It is preferable to choose a strip base for the extension;

• before pouring concrete, they dig a trench, the scale of which is selected depending on the characteristics of the structure being built;
• formwork is placed in the ditch suitable design, which is made from boards knocked together;
• concrete is prepared from three components of sand, one component of cement and six components of crushed stone;
• the foundation for the extension is flooded in layers. The top of the extension is smoothed with a trowel and left until completely hardened;
• If you need to build an extension in a short time, you can choose frame system, which is easily assembled and folded from a wooden frame and panels;
• finishing can be carried out immediately after construction. If necessary, the extension can be converted.

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An excellent way to increase space is to add an extension to a wooden house. Projects of such structures amaze with their diversity and scale. After selection suitable project, you need to prepare special materials. An additional extension will be useful when creating a kitchen area or a luxurious terrace. You can build any room yourself, but you need to choose the right type of construction.

Extension option

Extension to a wooden house: designs of structures made from various materials

Some time after construction work, there may be a need to increase the usable area. A wonderful solution could be to create an extension to a wooden house. Projects various structures you can look at the photo.

Choosing architectural form designs, do not forget about creating a single ensemble in style. For such a structure, special documentation and permission are required. Before construction work, it is necessary to study technological features and design options.

It is worth considering the following extension options:

• TO simple designs refers or dining area. It is used for protection from bad weather and sunlight. Under the canopy you can have picnics and receive guests. A strong foundation is not required for its construction. Pillars are installed as supporting supports, to which the frame and planned wall surfaces are attached.

Such structures are often built from logs, beams, foam blocks, and also bricks. Frame technologies are often used.

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Ask a Question

“The option under a common roof is considered more convenient and profitable. When using superstructures, it is worth calculating the strength of the foundation.”

Related article:

Extension to a frame house: design and installation features

When making an extension to a house from a frame, no significant costs will be required. This is a budget option. The construction is made on a frame base, which consists of beams or slats made of metal. After installing the frame structure, the walls are faced on both sides. In this case, OSB or chipboard boards are used. Thermal insulating material is laid between the plates. This can be polystyrene foam or mineral wool.

By thermal insulation properties frame structures are not inferior to more solid stone or brick buildings.

Construction work is carried out in several stages:

Expert's point of view

Dmitry Kholodok

Technical director of the repair and construction company "ILASSTROY"

Ask a Question

“For a frame structure, a foundation is required. You can use a strip structure with waterproofing.”

Extension to a house made of foam blocks: photos of interesting projects

You can build an extension to the house from foam blocks.

This design is in demand due to the following features:

• The material has an affordable price.
• To install the structure, it is not necessary to install a complex and expensive foundation.
• The elements retain heat well. This is possible due to the porous structure and low density.
• Foam blocks are produced overall dimensions, which affects the speed of construction.

Foam block structures require a special foundation. It can be a strip or monolithic base. High-quality waterproofing must be used. Construction work begins from one selected corner. After installing two rows. This is necessary to ensure better adhesion of the elements.

Extension to a wooden house made of timber: installation nuances and style features

A beautiful and high-quality extension to a wooden house can be made from timber. Individual projects and photos can be found on the Internet.

The material has the following features:

• The production of timber is carried out using factory technologies.
• The surface is processed special composition, which protects against fungi and decay processes.
• Naturalness and high environmental friendliness are considered important advantages of the material.

The extension must be connected to an existing structure. Usually the same foundation is made for the building as for the main building.

A separate foundation and a special wall should be created for the living space. The voids and gaps between the two walls are filled with polyurethane foam. This will prevent damage to the wall of the building when the new extension settles.

More economical option The foundation is piled. The walls are erected from profiled timber. After installing the first row, the surface of the wood is treated with antiseptic compounds. Then logs are mounted on it. Voids and cracks are filled with special heat-insulating material.

Each row is secured with wooden dowels. The installation of corner areas requires special attention. To do this, logs with a protrusion and groove are used for a stronger grip.

For your information! Reinforcement is used to connect the two foundations.

Before starting construction, you should take into account some of the nuances of installing an additional structure to the main structure. Length new design must be in harmony with the length of the wall of the main construction site. The width of the additional structure can be any.

The extension does not have to be adjacent to the wall where the entrance to the house is located. Exit to a spacious veranda or kitchen area maybe from the living room. If a bathroom is planned in the additional structure, then the exit can be from or. A suitable location for the structure is the front or end part of the house. The choice and amount of material depends on the type of future structure.

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