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Upon entering any room, the first thing that somehow comes into view is the ceiling. From its design and appearance depends on the overall perception of the interior and the impression it makes. It is for this reason that designers try to pay special attention to the ceiling. Thanks to the development of technologies in construction and the emergence plasterboard structures, the possibilities for creating unique suspended ceilings have become almost unlimited. Today, the abundance and availability building materials allows you to create suspended ceiling with your own hands without any problems, the main thing is to be able to use the tool and know how to make a suspended ceiling. Despite the ease of installation, it is impossible to do it alone, so invite a couple more assistants.

Basic device suspended ceiling

The design of suspended ceilings is single-level or multi-level metal carcass, attached to the ceiling and walls of the room, which is lined with sheets of plasterboard with built-in lighting fixtures.

To create the frame, galvanized steel is used metal profiles PP 60/27 and PPN 28/27 (imported analogue of CD and UD), parts of which are connected to each other with metal screws and special single-level (crabs) or two-level connectors. To attach the frame to the ceiling, straight or spring hangers are used, secured to the ceiling with anchors or dowels.

For covering the metal frame, gypsum plasterboard sheet (GKL) with a thickness of 9.5 mm, a width of 600 or 1200 mm and a length of 1500 - 2500 mm is used. Fixing the gypsum board to the metal frame is done with drywall screws. Recommendations for choosing gypsum plasterboards are based on exactly these parameters optimal combination strength and weight of the suspended ceiling. Subject to technology total weight 1 m2 of construction will be about 13 kg.

Preparatory work: stages

As with any other construction work, before making a suspended ceiling, you will have to do some preparation. This will concern the surface of the old ceiling, creating a design project and hanging diagram, and calculating the necessary materials.

Let's prepare the floor surface

The ceiling surface must be carefully prepared: remove old finishes, repair

Although the suspended ceiling will hide the surface of the ceiling, draw a series preparatory work have to. This will make it easier to install the ceiling and provide reliable fastening the entire structure. Let's start with removal old decoration, which is completely removed before putty or plaster, and if there were none, then until ceiling. Then we carefully check the surface for cracks, partially or completely peeled putty or plaster.

If everything is in order, then you can prime and putty the surface, and then proceed to further work. Otherwise, you will have to carry out more thorough repairs, perhaps even re-plaster the ceiling. Ideally, it should be strong and Smooth surface, to which the metal frame will be attached.

Design project and suspended ceiling diagram

The creation of a suspended ceiling begins with the development of its design project. Today, thanks to various architectural programs, creating such a project takes very little time. These programs allow you to examine and select the most attractive future suspended ceiling in volume and color.

Our video review about what types of suspended ceilings there are:

To all other, computer programs will allow you to create and print a diagram of a suspended ceiling with all necessary materials and their quantity. But those who are used to doing everything the old fashioned way - on paper - will have to work a little more. Creating a diagram and calculating materials manually is carried out as follows:

• the first thing needed for calculations is to measure the room and calculate the perimeter. For example, we have a room measuring 3x5 m. P=(3+5)*2=16 m. This will also be the length of the guide profile PPN 28/27. We transfer the size of the room to scale onto paper;

Example of a suspended ceiling diagram

Important! When measuring a room, you may find that opposite walls have different lengths. In this case, we take the largest value for calculations.

• the next step is to calculate frame profile. Support frame will be made from PP 60/27 profile, which is attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. For ease of installation, the length of one profile strip will be equal to the width of the room. We calculate the number of slats as follows: 3000/600 = 8.3 and round to the nearest whole number. To evenly distribute the planks, we place the first and last at a distance of 100 mm from the walls, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. This step was not chosen by chance. The fact is that gypsum board has a standard width of 600 mm and 1200 mm, and for reliable fastening it is necessary that the edges of the sheets lie on the profile. We mark the placement of the profile strips on the diagram;

• Now you need to calculate the number of hangers. All hangers are attached to the ceiling in increments of 600 mm. All frame profile strips will require (3000/600)*8=40 hangers. We attach the first and last suspension at a distance of 300 mm from the wall, and all the rest in increments of 600 mm. In the diagram, we mark the place of their attachment with crosses;

Important! Direct hangers can be used in two cases. The first is when the height of the suspended ceiling does not exceed 120 mm, the second is when the surface of the ceiling is absolutely flat. Otherwise, it is recommended to use spring hangers and constantly monitor the horizon using a level.

• To add rigidity to the suspended ceiling structure, you will need to additionally install lintels from the PP 60/27 profile. The jumpers themselves are installed between the main load-bearing planks with a pitch of 600 mm. To fix them, a special connector is used - a crab. The number of connectors is calculated as follows ((3000/600)-1)*8=32 pcs. Why exactly 32 pieces, and not 40. The fact is that the first line of jumpers is installed at a distance of 600 mm from the wall, the second 1200 mm, the third 1800, the fourth 2400. The fifth row is the wall itself. Now we mark on the diagram the place where the crabs are attached and, by connecting them with a solid line, we get the location for installing the jumpers.

Important! There are two types of connectors: single-level (crab) and two-level. The difference is in the method of fastening and in the height of the final structure. Thus, the crab allows you to place all the profile strips on the same level, and the total height of the profile with gypsum board will be 27 + 9.5 = 36.5 mm. The height of the profile and gypsum board with a two-level connector will be 27 + 27 + 9.5 = 63.5 mm. In addition, the profile consumption in the second case will be greater. But which method to choose is up to the master to decide.

All that remains is to calculate required amount sheets of drywall. Everything here is extremely simple, knowing the area of ​​the room is 5*3=15 m2, and the area of ​​one sheet, for example 2.5*1.2=3 m2, we get 15/3=5 sheets.
Now we calculate the number of screws. This must be done based on the following data:

• for fastening to the ceiling and walls, dowels and 6x60 screws are used, the pitch for fastening to walls is 300 mm, for the ceiling 600 mm;
• to fix the profile and hangers, profile and crabs, you will need a self-tapping screw LN 9, LN 11. For the profile and hanger you need 2 screws, for the crab and profile 4 screws;
• MN 30 self-tapping screws are used to fix the gypsum boards. The pitch between the screws is 250 mm.

In the end, all that remains is to mark the location of the lighting fixtures on the diagram and calculate the required amount of wiring.

How to make a suspended ceiling yourself

About how to install a suspended ceiling with listing various options installation, you can write a small scientific report. In this article, we will look at the simplest installation option, which you can do on your own, without having the professional skills of a builder.

Working with a marker and tape measure

Installation of suspended ceilings begins with marking the surface of the ceiling. If the surface of the ceiling is flat, take a tape measure and a marker. We measure the height of the future suspended ceiling without taking into account the sheet of drywall. We put 3 - 4 marks along the entire length on each wall, then take the painting thread and connect the marks in one line. This line will be a guideline for the PPN 28/27 guide profile.

Now we apply markings on the ceiling for the main profile PP 60/27 and suspensions. We retreat the required distance from the walls, put a few marks and beat off a line using paint thread. We repeat the procedure for all other planks of the supporting profile in increments of 600 mm. On the marked lines for the frame profile we mark places for direct hangers, as shown in the diagram.

Ceiling frame installation

We fix the profiles to the walls and ceiling, forming a frame for plasterboard sheets

Having finished with the main markings, we proceed to the installation of profiles. We start with a guide profile PPN 28/27 along the perimeter of the room. We take a hammer drill or a drill in our hands and, along the previously drawn line, drill holes for 6x60 dowels. We drill the same holes on the profile. For reliable fastening, drill the first and last holes 100 mm from the wall, all subsequent holes 300 mm from the wall. We drive dowels into the resulting holes and screw the PPN profile into place.

Important! During the installation of a suspended ceiling, you will have to screw in a lot of various screws and screws, so use a screwdriver. This will greatly speed up and facilitate all work.

The next step is to fix the hangers. To do this, take the suspension and apply it to the mark on the ceiling. It should be located strictly in the middle of the line and at right angles to it. We mark a place for the dowel and drill a hole. Then we drive the dowel inside and screw the hanger on. We repeat the entire procedure for 40 suspensions.

Important! The hanger can be secured with 1 or 2 dowels, it depends on how reliable design want to receive.

Now we fix the main frame. To do this, we bend the antennae of the suspensions down so that the profile fits freely between them. We bring the profile inward and fix it at the required height on the sides with metal screws.

Example: what the frame of a multi-level suspended ceiling might look like

Having secured all the profile strips, take a tape measure and mark the places where the crabs are attached. Then we place them on top of the profile with the tendrils down and press down firmly to snap them inside. Having done this, we proceed to cutting jumpers from the PP 60/27 profile. To do this, we will use a grinder or metal scissors and cut the entire profile into pieces. We take the size on the basis that the jumper will fit tightly between the main planks. Having cut the required amount, we proceed to installation. Place the jumper underneath the crab and press them tightly together so that the crab snaps inside. Having installed all the jumpers in this way, we align them in a straight line according to the drawn diagram. Then we fix all the crabs and profiles together with 4 screws.

Frame installation is complete. You can install heat and sound insulation, as well as lay wiring for lighting.

Rules for covering the surface of gypsum boards

We install gypsum plasterboard sheets to the ceiling frame: plasterboard slabs are attached to the profiles with self-tapping screws

We apply sheets of drywall to the prepared frame and screw it to the profile with self-tapping screws. We make sure that the edges of the plasterboard lie on the profile. For reliability, we fasten all the sheets apart. To do this you will have to trim some, but this is done very easily. First, cardboard is cut under the ruler on one side, the plaster is carefully broken, and then the cardboard is cut through on the other side.

After installation, you first need to treat the butt seams and the places where the screws are installed with putty, then cover the entire ceiling with putty mixture

Video guide: installation of Knauf ceiling

The installation of the suspended ceiling with your own hands is completed, all that remains is finishing. To do this, carefully putty and level all the joints and places where screws are screwed in. We wait until the putty is completely dry, and then apply finishing layer finishing materials. Finally we install lighting. All work on installing a suspended ceiling is quite simple for beginners in the construction business. The main thing is to follow the work technology.

Let's continue the topic DIY roof construction. Today, dear blog readers, we will talk about how to do it right hanging rafters with your own hands. We will not only tell you about all the stages of creation, but also supplement it with a large number of photos. Read, watch, ask questions!

If the Mauerlat can be attached (you can read how we attached it in the article) to the wall, using available means for lifting, then further work on building the roof, including work with rafters, is not possible without installing scaffolding, including mobile. We used these scaffolding both for lifting to the height required for work, and as a working platform for people and for laying the necessary building materials.

To build a house, we used three of these scaffolds at the same time. For construction you need at least two scaffolds of this type. The photo shows how the mobile scaffolding is made. We recommend using our experience, since working on such scaffolding is very convenient.

Now that the issues of convenience and safety of work have been resolved, you can begin the construction of the rafter system.

Our house does not have an internal main wall, i.e. Apart from the external walls, there is no additional support and the rafter legs will rest only on the external walls of the house. In this case apply hanging rafters.

Rafters - (Old Russian strop - “roof, ceiling”) - load-bearing, supporting structure gable roof(Yandex dictionaries).

• Rafter legs (Middle Latin luctantes - “holding each other”) are inclined, which form the roof slope.
• The rafter legs are connected by vertical “fillies” or “headstocks”.
• Aerial connection, tightening - a horizontal beam that connects the rafter legs.

How to install rafters correctly

It's time to install the rafters. How to do this correctly?

For the rafters, we took a beam 6 meters long and with a cross section of 50 mm X 200 mm. If the cross-section of the rafters is small, such rafters may sag over time.

The roof slope angle is 33 degrees in our case.

Below we will tell you step by step how to install the rafters:

• Using scaffolding, we lift two beams up and connect them;
• We “cut” the “heel” on the rafter legs so that the “heel” of the rafter leg rests firmly on the mauerlat;

• We do the same with the second rafter. It would be good to mark the rafter legs as “right” and “left”;
• The rafter legs were installed and connected;
• Now at the top, at the junction of the rafter legs, it is necessary to “cut” the “stump” at such an angle so that the rafters in the upper part are not overlapped, and then fastened with nails - this is very unreliable. The rafters should rest against each other.

• In order to “cut” the “stump” correctly, the rafters must first be placed one against the other, draw a connection line with a pencil, then saw off;
• You immediately need to measure and make 2 templates for further preparation of the rafters already on the ground;
• Now we install the rafters from the side of one pediment, then from the side of the other pediment. The rafters are attached to the mauerlat with a nail;

• The second pair of rafter legs (left and right), like all subsequent ones, are prepared on the ground using templates;
• We stretch the thread between the installed rafter pairs along the ridge and proceed to install the remaining rafters;
• We installed the rafters at a distance of 70 cm (for you it may be 68:73 cm in fact) from each other. This is the most convenient distance for our roof. Firstly, it is reliable, and secondly, with such a distance between the rafters, it is convenient to stretch the film in the future;
• To do this, you need to first mark the Mauerlat, then install the rafters according to the markings;
• It is imperative to navigate along the thread stretched between the outer rafters and, if necessary, adjust the height of the rafter legs in place. Sometimes you need to place small planks under your feet;
• The width between each pair of rafters is adjusted in the lower part according to the markings on the mauerlat, in the upper part using a temporary board with similar markings. Those. after installing each pair of rafters, a board is temporarily nailed to the right and left rafters at the top according to pre-applied markings corresponding to the markings on the mauerlat;

• Hanging rafters in our case it is necessary to connect (due to the large distance between the supporting walls) with a horizontal beam (tightening). We previously connected the rafter pairs in the area of ​​the ridge with a horizontal board, forming a ridge unit (see photo at the beginning of the article).

• The tie in our case, due to the large distance between the supporting walls (the width of the house is about 11 meters), does not consist of a single beam, but of several boards connected to each other. Making a puff from several boards (staggering) solves several problems:

1. As a result, we get a puff of the required length;
2. the reliability and strength of the tightening of three boards with a total thickness of 60 mm (20mm + 20mm + 20mm) is much higher than that of timber with a thickness of 60 mm.

• We took 4 and 6 meter boards, cut to the required length, then fastened them with nails and twisted with studs and nuts with rafter legs.

• It is always necessary to control the distance between the puffs: it must coincide with the distance between the rafter legs. For this we use (as well as to control the distance between the rafter pairs at the ridge - we wrote about this above) narrow boards marked in accordance with the markings on the mauerlat. Always control your distance!!

• In addition, we connected the ridge and the puff with another board. Since we do not have a retaining wall, the tie may bend under its own weight. To prevent this from happening, we connected the ridge of the rafter pair with a “grandmother” with a tie.

• We did everything described above with each one!! rafter pair.

About additional fastening of rafters to the mauerlat, about how to properly lengthen hanging rafters for overhang and many, many more necessary and useful things we will tell you in the next article dedicated to

From this article you will learn about the advantages and disadvantages of foundations built using TISE technology. We will tell you how to build a foundation with your own hands, we will give step by step instructions. You will be able to learn about the nuances of a monolithic pile grillage and the piles themselves.

Individual ecological construction has many goals, one of which is careful attitude To natural resources. Gentle technology allows you to get the desired result - a high-quality, durable house, without wasting unnecessary energy and raw materials. We will tell you about the foundation, the construction of which can be completed by a master mediocre even alone.

Technology basis

The main advantage, or as they say today, “trick,” of such a foundation is that it is not in contact with the ground. More precisely, the contact area is minimal and is reduced to the surface of the piles. The tape grillage rests on them and is in a suspended state. This provides the following advantages:

1. Reinforced foundation waterproofing is not required. For all waterproofing work, 5-6 rolls of ordinary inexpensive roofing material are enough.
2. Seasonal heaving of the soil* does not affect the grillage tape. This factor often causes breakage of strip foundations.
3. Minimum amount of excavation work.
4. Ventilated space under the ceiling - reliable protection from dampness and debate.
5. The energy of the soil is used. At proper organization the basement and ventilation under the house in the underground cavity will maintain a constant temperature.

* Soil heaving is the property of soil to change volume when temperature changes. Depends on soil moisture and temperature.

The disadvantages can be called conditional:

1. More boards will be needed to form the beams.
2. It is necessary to wait at least 21 days before stripping.

A “hanging” grillage does not differ structurally from a buried grillage. The only difference between them is the level of placement.

TISE piles

The peculiarity of TISE piles is that they have a developed supporting part in the form of an extension along the radius of the pile. It’s hard to call it a novelty - this design has been used in industrial construction since the mid-18th century. The main problem - increasing the space in the bottom part of the pile pit - was solved in different ways - from special attachments to the drill rod to the explosive method.

TISE engineers took the work of industrial mechanisms as a basis and created a special drill with a folding knife. No other way to make an expansion at a depth of 1.8 meters under these conditions has yet been invented. The drill itself has a rather primitive design and consists of the following elements:

1. Vertical bar with handles.
2. A soil collector equipped with cutters at the bottom for cutting into the ground.
3. Folding knife with pull to the handle.

Drilling a hole under a pile is done in an elementary way - having reached the required level using conventional drilling, the operator tilts the knife back with the help of traction and selects a cavity while continuing to rotate the drill. The soil is collected in a soil collector container and the operator removes it to the surface. The depth of the piles is determined by a single rule: the supporting part of the pile must be completely below the freezing level of the soil.

IN currently On sale you can find two original drills TISE-F200, F250 and F300, as well as countless copies and analogues of them. The numbers in the name indicate the diameter of the hole in millimeters. Cost of drills:

• TISE-F200 - 75 USD. e.
• TISE-F250 - 80 USD. e.
• TISE-F300 - 85 USD. e.

TISE piles and drill on video

Construction of the foundation

The TISE foundation consists of two structural elements- pile row and grillage-beam, respectively, and the work will be divided into two stages. First you need to arrange all the piles, and then make a grillage.

Concreting piles

After drilling all the holes, you should begin preparing the frames for the piles. These can be simple frames made of A3 Ø 12 reinforcement - 3-4 working rods per pile. Take the length with a margin of 400-600 mm. Tie the working rods with clamps.

Progress:

1. We make a footing - add at least 50 mm of concrete to each hole. If your work requires precision, at this stage you need to level the horizon at depth. To do this, stretch the cord horizontally so that it does not interfere with work, and adjust the level with a layer of concrete, focusing on the cord.
2. We install the frames and concrete the pile headstock.
3. We install a “shirt” made of roofing felt.

Video - how to make a sleeve for a pile

1. We concrete the piles through the conductor, as shown in the video. The height of the pillar on concrete is from 100 to 200 mm above ground level.

Concreting TISE piles on video

Further steps will vary depending on the material of the grillage. If it is wooden, like the rest of the house, then the piles can be trimmed with a grinder to the desired level after hardening. If the grillage is monolithic, when concreting it is necessary to focus on the tensioned cord so that the concrete level of the pile is appropriate.

Concreting the grillage

After the solution has hardened (3 days), you can continue building the foundation.

Progress:

1. Fill the space between the piles with soil or sand/slag flush with the concrete level (horizon) to a width equal to the width of the tape + 200 mm. Compact with boards or a hand tamper.
2. Lay the contact surface with roofing material or polyethylene.
3. Bend the outlets of the pile reinforcement at the level of the future working rods of the beam frame.
4. Tie the frame in accordance with the reinforcement requirements. In this case, the outlets of the pile frame must be tied into the beam frame.
5. We install formwork according to the requirements for formwork.
6. We concrete the beams, focusing on the horizon, which is better transferred to inner side sides. To do this, use high-quality concrete from pure raw materials with proportions of 1/3/3-4. When laying, use a vibrator - hanging beams must be reliable.

After laying concrete, it is necessary to wait at least 7 days to continue work. After removing the formwork, after 21 days you need to remove the bedding from under the beams. The terrain will level out and gaps will appear between the bottom of the beam and the ground level. The beam can be coated with one layer liquid waterproofing(except for the contact surface during the further construction of TISE walls).

Final view of the TISE foundation on video

Further operation of the foundation will require the organization of underground ventilation. This can be done by bridging the gap with a perforated sheet of laminated galvanized metal. The described technology is extremely economical. Attempts to make it even cheaper by using low-quality raw materials will inevitably lead to big troubles that will start from the foundation. Decent concrete and sufficient reinforcement will extend the life of the foundation to 180 years.

The phrase “hanging garden” refers us to the first tourist rating in European media - a shortlist of seven “wonders of the world”, which was compiled by Herodotus in his “History”. One of these wonders (which are worth a look at for an inquisitive person, and the ancient Greeks were very inquisitive people) were the Hanging Gardens of Babylon. As Herodotus was told, they were built in order to console the king’s wife, who was yearning among the Iraqi sands for her distant, flourishing homeland - mountainous Media. Of course, what can be arranged on a country plot will be many times inferior in scale to the splendor of the Middle East, but every summer resident is quite capable of creating his own miracle.

The main investment that hanging gardens require is time. However, you don’t need much more of it than when caring for potted plants. Scroll necessary measures is standard: fertilizing, treatment against diseases and pests, removal of faded flowers and daily watering.

The main advantage of hanging gardens is space saving. Any vertical surfaces to which you can attach ampelous (hanging) plants are suitable for their placement: walls of a house, fencing of terraces and gazebos, fences, pergolas and even lamp posts. In some cases, metal frames and grilles are additionally installed. This type of landscaping, among other things, can serve as an effective and ingenious means of camouflage, hiding construction or finishing defects. At the same time, it is important to correlate the strength of the fasteners and the weight of the flower containers, especially if multi-tiered structures are intended to be installed. Ordinary garden soil due to its density it is unsuitable here. It is recommended to use light substrates, consisting mostly of peat, turf soil, sand, agroperlite, vermiculite and fine expanded clay. Such a mixture most effectively ensures plant hydration and absorption nutrients. It is also worth paying attention to hydrogel as a source of moisture. As for containers for flowers, today, as a rule, lightweight ones are used. plastic containers and flowerpots. But for powerful flyers, baskets and cones are purchased from metal mesh. To place vertical flower arrangements, the most illuminated and well-sheltered areas from the wind are selected.

The undoubted advantage of hanging gardens is their mobility. In fact, this is a modular landscape constructor, from the elements of which you can form any composition. Vertical gardening leaves a lot of room for experimentation. Subject to certain rules, even a novice summer resident has access to a huge variety of options, which is determined by the types of flowers, their combinations in hanging flower beds, the distance between the ampels, cascading, linear or single (“flower clouds”) types of placement, etc. It is quite acceptable to make substitutions, create color and texture accents, and change the geometric order. However, we should not forget that hanging gardens are ceremonial elements landscape design and directly affect the appearance of the entire site. This means that they must correspond to the overall stylistic context. If horizontal flower beds and potted plants may represent separate groups, then hanging flower beds strictly obey the initially specified design guidelines.

The range of annuals for vertical gardens and flower beds is very significant. For example, it is enough to name the ampelous varieties of fuchsia, petunia, diascia, nemesia, balsam, lavatera, pelargonium, marigold, ageratum. At the same time, traditional garden vines - morning glory, kobea, sweet pea, thunbergia - are clearly not suitable for hanging containers, since they need supports (otherwise they will not be able to give the expected visual effect). Herbaceous ornamental plants They will also not be able to play their role properly, lost among the bright floral waves of their lushly blooming neighbors.

Having studied the generally simple and few recommendations on how to make a hanging garden with your own hands, you can add suburban area a whole carnival of amazing natural colors. Which landscaping model to choose—luxurious floral carpets or individual “cloud” baskets, elegant potted collections or multi-stage flower beds reminiscent of waterfalls—depends on the chosen style and personal preferences. In addition, working with hanging gardens will be an excellent school for an amateur gardener. It will allow you to better understand the properties of various plants, show how to create advantageous contrasts and combine bushy and climbing species. This experience will be extremely useful when arranging horizontal flower beds and flower beds.

Even more useful information from the world of real estate on our

Hanging garden on gutters - great way Take advantage of the vertical space around your home to grow flowers, edibles and create a stylish space divider or garden screen without spending too much money.

Materials

 1 - 8" white PVC rain gutter cut into 3 sections 32"

6 - white PVC plugs for gutters 

2 - 1/8 " steel cables cut to required length 

6 - Clamps (see image below) 

6 - 1/8" steel rods 

2 - Galvanized hooks


Tools

 Cordless drill/driver

 Hand saw or wire cutters

 right angle ruler

 Roulette 

Permanent marker 


1. Locate the center of your gutters and mark (otherwise your gutter won't hang straight).


2. Mark and drill holes for the steel cable rods. Find a drill with a diameter equal to the diameter of the cable to minimize the space for maneuver.
3. Drill holes several sizes larger, make sure you get good drainage(Plant roots don't like to sit in water for long periods of time).



4. Find a place that gets at least 4 hours of sun. I placed my gutters on a gazebo I built a couple of years ago.

5. Drill pilot holes (the hole is slightly smaller in diameter than the auger diameter) to make screwing in the hooks easier. Make sure the holes are evenly spaced so the cable hangs straight down.
6. Pull the gutters through the holes and secure them with cross clamps at the desired height. You'll notice that I've placed a grid (usually used for plasterboard seams) left over from another project, over the drainage holes to keep the soil from seeping through. However, I think the holes are small enough that this step is optional. I did it out of habit.
7. Secure the gutter with cross clamps and semi-circular steel rods.



Now everything is ready to be filled in organic soil and planting small rooted plants of your choice.