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When to replant black currants?

You need to focus primarily on the climate of the region in which your summer cottage is located. We, being in middle lane Russia, transplanted in the fall, in mid-September. The bush surprisingly quickly took root in the new place before the arrival of frosts, some negative manifestations was not noticed.

The earth is warmed up in autumn after summer season and the temperature is more stable. For example, look at the spring of 2017 in the Moscow region - warm March, cold end of April with snow, now, in May, night frosts are promised. Here, as if the old black currant preparing for flowering was not harmed - there is no question of replanting.

In addition, in the fall the bush has accumulated a large amount nutrients over the summer, and a downward flow of sap predominates, allowing the plant to recover faster and heal wounds.

It is in September that black currants develop greatest number absorbent roots, which also contributes to better survival.

If you decide to transplant in the spring, do it before the buds swell, after the soil has thawed. The deadline in this case should be adjusted year by year.

Landing location

It is better to replant black currants in the place where potatoes, beans, and beets previously grew. The site should be open, partial shade is acceptable. It can be located on a slope or plain, the main thing is not in a lowland. High humidity promotes the development of fungal diseases.

During autumn replanting, the soil should first be dug up in the spring to a depth of 2 shovels (about 35-40 cm), adding 10 kg of manure or compost, 10 g of double superphosphate, 6 g of potassium chloride for each 1 m2. A month before the planned transplant, somewhere in mid-August, they dig again.

If you plan to replant in the spring, dig up the soil in the fall.

Our shrub was relatively small; we planted it to a depth of about 40 cm (the width of the planting hole is about 50 cm). For larger bushes, the hole should be larger.

A layer of nutrient mixture was poured onto the bottom, consisting of:

• Fertile topsoil.
• 10 kg of compost or rotted manure.
• 450 g wood ash
• 250 g superphosphate.

After that, they spilled it with 2 buckets of settled water from the barrel. This allows you to dissolve mineral fertilizers in the layer, thereby reducing their concentration at the surface, and avoid possible burns to the roots.

Seedling preparation

It is highly advisable to prune 3 weeks before the planned transplant. The main branches are shortened by a third. As a result, the height of the bush should be about 50 cm. If the bush is small, like ours, pruning can be neglected. Its main meaning: the root system, which has lost volume in a new location, will require less effort to maintain a smaller number of above-ground shoots.

Transfer

We performed the procedure in the evening (after 18-00), not in the sun, so that the plant could get used to the new place a little at night.

If the bush is large, it is better to temporarily tie its branches in the shape of a spindle. This will prevent them from breaking. The roots of the dug plant can be placed in a solution of potassium permanganate for disinfection for 15 minutes (if required, we did not do so, since our shrub is healthy).

They made a small mound at the bottom of the hole and spilled it with 2 buckets of water. As soon as the moisture was absorbed into the soil, we placed the bush in a hole on a prepared improvised elevation, carefully straightened the roots and buried it with earth. Here, plan in such a way that the root collar is eventually buried 5 cm into the ground. During backfilling, be especially careful that no voids form - to do this, shake the bush a little.

It is advisable to maintain the same orientation of the bush to the cardinal points as it was in the previous place.

Upon completion of planting, the surface should be compacted, and a circular depression should be formed around the bush for watering. After this, the bush is watered for the first time with 2 buckets of water from a barrel that has been heated during the day.

Be sure to mulch at the end trunk circle. You can use peat and humus.

Further care

Then, throughout the fall, until the arrival of frost, we loosened the soil around the bush several times to provide the roots with better air saturation. You can loosen to a depth of about 5 cm at the base of the bush and 2 times deeper at the watering hole.

If there is little rain, do not forget to compensate for the lack of moisture in the soil by periodic watering.

At the end of October, the base of the bush was additionally mulched with a layer of sawdust to protect root system from the upcoming frosts. Upper part The bush was not covered in any way. When the snow fell, at first they also shoveled it under a bush.

Our black currants overwintered well and have settled into their new location. But prepare fungicides and insecticides in advance. If your plant becomes too weak and gets sick next year, you should have these drugs on hand for timely treatment.

Not all gardeners know that transplanting currants has its own subtleties. It would seem that there is nothing complicated here - I dug up a bush, moved it to a new place, buried it and watered it. But it's not that simple. Place, timing, planting pattern and depth, watering requirements - everything matters when carrying out work on moving mature shrubs. Proper execution procedures will guarantee minimization of losses and receipt in the future bountiful harvests favorite and fragrant berries.

Particular attention to the choice of location

There may be several reasons for transplanting currant bushes:

• if the bush has become old and needs rejuvenation;
• if the soil under the bush is depleted, and the berry clearly lacks nutrients;
• if trees and other shrubs have grown in the neighborhood and began to obscure the sun, or the currant bush itself has become an obstacle to the normal functioning of other plantings;
• if the bush has a lot of rooted cuttings and shoots that need to be moved to another place.

Regardless of the reason for transplanting currants, the order of work will be as follows:

• choice of location;
• preparing the planting hole;
• preparing the transplanted bush;
• direct landing;
• care after transplantation.

The choice of a new place of residence for a berry crop must be approached with all responsibility. It is well known that any transplanted plant experiences “stress”. If you choose the wrong place and then replant the plant, it will weaken significantly and you will have to wait a long time for a full harvest.

All varieties of currants love the sun, so you need to choose sunny places, away from other trees, buildings and fences. In partial shade, the yield will decrease and the quality of the berries will deteriorate. Moreover, the crop will often suffer from pests and diseases. In the southernmost regions, where summers are especially hot and the sun is scorching, light partial shade may be suitable for currant plantings.

It should also be taken into account that areas with close-lying groundwater are not suitable for transplantation. The soil in the selected area should be moderately moist.

You should not create compositions from currants and other plants: its foliage is very susceptible to fungal diseases. To avoid infection from other garden crops, better nearby Do not plant anything with currants.

Transfer rules

After choosing a location, the ground for future planting should be dug up, carefully selecting weeds and other plant debris. Planting holes are made at a distance of 1-1.5 m from each other (for tall varieties select maximum removal). A large distance allows the bushes not to shade each other and eliminates infection by a disease that has arisen on one of the bushes.

The depth of the holes should be at least 40 cm, and the width - 50-60 cm, depending on the size of the roots. They are filled with fertile soil mixed with humus (compost), mineral fertilizers and wood ash. This is how they prepare planting sites for transplanting black currants. If red berry bushes are to be transferred, add a little sand to the ground and cover the bottom with drainage (crushed stone). Keep in mind that the pits are prepared 2-3 weeks before the event.

It is necessary to pay special attention to the preparation of the transplanted bush. All old branches need to be cut to the ground, and young shoots should be shortened by 2 times. Then the bush is dug in a circle and removed from the hole. They do this carefully, trying not to pull the shoots or harm the roots. If the bush is not removed, it is dug up again.

Most frequently asked question, which summer residents ask, concerns how best to replant currants - with a lump of earth or the soil should be shaken off from the roots. If the bush is healthy, you can use the first option. Then you will need a piece of cloth, film or a bowl to move the extracted currants. But more often old plants are replanted, and then there is a risk of diseases or pests in them. Or they dig up a large bush for the purpose of dividing it. Therefore, the soil is shaken off from the roots. After this, the root system is carefully inspected for insect larvae and pests. The larvae are removed, dry and damaged tissues are also removed, and the entire root mass is treated with potassium permanganate.

Before placing the shrub in landing hole, you need to pour water into it and mix the fertile substance. The root system is immersed in the resulting slurry and covered with dry soil, holding the bush suspended. The root collar should be 5-8 cm below the ground level. The transplanted bush is watered abundantly so that the soil around the roots is compacted and there are no voids.

Further care is carried out as usual: good and frequent watering, fertilizing and spraying.

What time to choose - spring or autumn?

When is the best time to replant currants? For this type of work, late autumn, early spring, and even summer are suitable, if these are seedlings with a closed root system. But it is still preferable to transplant currants in the fall. It is carried out when the plant sheds its leaves and goes into a dormant state, that is, the flow of sap in the shoots stops. This is the second half of October for central Russia and the end of September and the first half of October for regions further north.

An earlier transplant may cause the currants to “confuse” the season and throw out buds, which will die from frost, weakening the plant. If the weather is warm and dry after transplantation, the new plantings need to be watered abundantly, maintaining a real “swamp” under them for the first time. If desired, the plantings can be protected from pests with the help of garlic: in the fall, plant it around the bushes, and in the spring, after germination, lightly trim the feathers every 3-4 days to release a repellent odor.

The first year after transplantation, plants need shelter. You can take old humus (2-3 buckets per bush), mix it with fallen leaves and pour the resulting mixture into the base of the currant. In addition to protecting the plantings from frost, in the spring this mixture will become their additional feeding.

That's all the rules regarding the question of how to replant currants in the fall. Such plantings will take root over the winter and adapt to the new location. And in the summer you can expect a good harvest.

If you replant currants in the spring, there will be no harvest this season. When single flowers appear, they need to be cut off. In general, the adaptation period for berries transplanted in spring lasts longer.

Any dacha is incomplete without berry bushes. The most popular and useful of them, undoubtedly, is currants. To get a good harvest every year, it requires proper care. The plant is unpretentious and does not require much attention or money. But there are circumstances that require its replanting, mainly due to an incorrectly selected location, depleted soil or redevelopment of the garden.

Replanting an adult currant bush is not so easy. After all, the plant receives a lot of stress, as a result of which it can get sick or die. Therefore, the transplantation process must be carried out correctly, taking into account the biological characteristics and the annual cycle of currants.

Features of currants

Black currant belongs to perennial shrubs, reaching a height of about 3 m with a dozen branches of different ages. Distinctive feature the absence of root buds is considered. If the bush is planted right under the neck, you will get a short-lived, low-fruiting plant without side shoots or branches. It usually has up to five main branches with side shoots. Young branches originate from basal shoots. After two years they begin to bear fruit.

The plant is resistant to low temperatures, but severe frost provokes the death of annual growths or buds, which reduces future yield. It also harms him low temperature, which falls during the formation of flowers.

Currants grow well in sunny areas, but shade has a bad effect on the ripening of berries and provokes diseases and pest invasions.

Water is also important for this crop. But due to its excess, the bush ages, slows down and dies. Abundant watering is recommended in hot weather or during berry development. Red currants have a high yield and are useful for cardiovascular diseases, rheumatism and stomach diseases. Proper care guarantees a constant harvest for up to 25 years. The berries ripen in June or August, depending on the variety. Tolerates drought well and is frost-resistant.

Why replant currants?

If everything is clear with young bushes purchased from a nursery, then why replant black currants that have been growing on the site for many years?

The main reasons for moving shrubs from one place to another are:

• transplanting currants in the fall in order to breed your favorite variety;
• to rejuvenate an old plant;
• save the bush from pests or diseases;
• if the currants fall under the shade due to new buildings, overgrown grapes or trees;
• for thinning currant bushes;
• to increase yield due to severely depleted soil under the bush;
• when moving to another garden or summer cottage;
• planned relocation of the bush upon reaching a certain age.

There are other reasons that provoke a transplant. However, summer residents are in no hurry to replant berry bushes without a good reason.

Choosing a landing site

It doesn’t matter when the currants are transplanted - in autumn or spring. The transplant principle is almost identical. This stage must be taken seriously, because good fruiting and how the crop will take root depend on it.

Red currants are best planted in the south or southwest. Since the berry loves warmth, in such a place the soil will warm up more effectively and moisture will not stagnate in it.

Black currants are mainly planted in the north or northeast. She feels good in a little shade. Sunny side It won’t hurt her either, since this variety is very unpretentious.

When is currant transplanted?

Views differ on when to transplant currants to another place. In fact, this procedure can be performed at any time during the growing season, except winter, even in August. It is believed that the bush tolerates replanting less painfully during the dormant period, when the processes are slowed down and the sap does not run along the shoots. Therefore, autumn or spring transplantation wins. It is also worth considering the climate.

For northern regions, spring transplantation is preferable, since there is a high probability that the transplanted plant will not survive heavy frosts.

It is quite possible to harvest seedlings in the fall for planting in the spring. For temperate climates, it would be ideal to transplant currants to a new location in the fall. And in summer period- only for serious reasons. To minimize trauma and reduce stress, the plant is dug up with a sufficient amount of soil and planted with it in a new hole. Then pour it well with water.

What is the difference between seasonal transplants?

In spring, crops awaken. A successful transplant during this period depends on whether you manage to move it before it wakes up or not. But even when doing everything correct measures, the bush will begin to bear fruit only next year, since the plant will spend all its strength adapting to new conditions. But you don’t have to worry whether the currants will withstand the winter or not. An already rooted plant will live quietly until next spring.

In autumn, the growth of all crops decreases, immunity weakens, and they prepare for sleep. But, nevertheless, the shrubs are quite good at replanting at this time. Currants transplanted in the fall will produce a harvest the very next season, and the summer resident only benefits with this method, since he will not lose the harvest. But it is better to move the plant at least a month before frost, so that it has time to get stronger and take new roots.

Spring planting mainly occurs at the beginning of March. At this time, the earth thaws, the sun warms the earth. It is not necessary to transplant in March. You need to look at the weather: if the soil temperature is already above zero degrees, feel free to replant.

If, after all, the transplant is scheduled for autumn, then it is better to do this before October 15, before frost hits. Until this time, you should not disturb the plant, because heat air will provoke the growth of transplanted bushes. And if you delay planting until November, this can lead to poor rooting of the plant.

Preparatory measures before transplantation

Not only the land, but also the currants themselves need to be prepared for moving to new site.

To do this, it is pruned several weeks before the upcoming event. Only branches important for development and growth are left. During autumn transplantation, pruning is done in the spring, before the buds swell. You cannot prune a bush and replant it at the same time. This will not allow the plant to distribute its forces to heal wounds and adapt the roots, and will lead to the premature death of the bush.

1. Currants are shortened to a height of up to half a meter. Old bushes are cut out completely, young ones - by one third.
2. The plant is dug around about 25-40 cm deep, retreating 50-60 cm from the trunk. Take it by the bottom and pull it towards itself. There is no need to pull branches when the bush does not stretch. In this case, it’s better to dig some more.
3. The extracted currants are subjected to thorough inspection. Bad roots (with rot, sores) are destroyed. Infected areas are cut off at the roots if they cannot be removed otherwise.
4. The affected bush is disinfected by immersing the roots in a weak solution of potassium permanganate for a quarter of an hour. The currants are transported to the prepared place using films or tarpaulins.

Correct transplant

1. A mound of prepared substrate is formed in the hole, and 15-25 liters of water are spilled. The liquid should be absorbed into the ground. A humid environment leads to severe shrinkage of the bush, which is fraught with subsequent improper development.
2. Lower the bush into the hole and cover it with soil at a height of about 5-8 cm from the root collar.
3. Place it in the same direction as it was located on former place to prevent bending of branches.
4. When falling asleep, prevent the formation empty seats, which may cause root rot. Therefore, the bush should be shaken.
5. Compact the earth and form a watering hole. Pour water little by little, but not less than 25 liters, until it is completely absorbed.
6. Sprinkle mulch on top. You can use peat, straw, dry leaves.
7. Water the berry bush again with 20 liters of water.
8. For 14 days, if there is no rainfall, the plant is watered once every two days. The volume of water for each bush is at least 25 liters.

Aftercare

After replanting, currant care continues. The ground underneath needs to be loosened periodically, maintaining an ideal state of water and air for good rooting.

Before winter comes:

• clean up plant remains at the tree trunk circle;
• cover the trunk with spruce branches;
• spray the bush with fungicide;
• branches are connected to each other;
• shoveling snow towards the bush.

Currants are found on almost every summer cottage. This berry crop is perhaps the most widespread. But here good harvest Not all gardeners can boast. This shrub, although unpretentious, bears fruit abundantly only with appropriate care. Transplantation is included in the list of necessary procedures.

A plant may need to change its place of residence for several reasons. An adult currant bush is transplanted in the following cases:

an overgrown bush interferes with neighboring plants, or nearby trees shade the currants;

the bush has been growing in this place for quite a long time, the soil is clearly depleted and toxic substances have accumulated in the earth as a result of the life activity of this crop;

there is a need to renew and rejuvenate the bush, for example, if the bush is very old and a revision of the overgrown root system is required in order to remove dead and diseased parts, a healthy and young part is left for further cultivation;

it is necessary to replant the shoots formed at the bush;

the territory is being redeveloped and another place is planned for the currants or it is necessary to transport the plant to another site;

there was a rise groundwater and the soil became too damp, which is detrimental to currants.

Transplantation of an adult fruit-bearing bush is carried out only in case of emergency, since this procedure is severe stress for a plant.

Replanting is a strong stress for the plant, sometimes the bush dies

Currants have difficulty surviving being moved and are usually sick for a long time. Deaths are common. Therefore, we must try to take into account the botanical species characteristics and the annual vegetation cycle of the plant.

Replant currants immediately after the snow melts in early spring or after the end of leaf fall in late autumn. The main condition is the dormant state of the bush, when the plant has not yet begun to grow and even the buds have not yet appeared, or at the end of the growing season, when the bush has already dropped all its leaves and is preparing for winter.

Transfer time is determined climatic features regions.

Summer transplantation is also allowed, but as a last resort.

Features of transplantation in different seasons

It is best to replant a berry bush in the fall, but this procedure can be carried out at other times of the year.

Spring transplantation of currants

Spring replanting begins in early spring, after the ground has thawed and a constant temperature of about 0–1 °C has established. It is very important that the buds do not even swell yet. The period during which you can touch the plant is very short, but then the bush will have the opportunity to take root well. If this does not work, then it is better to postpone the transplant until autumn or next year.

It is highly undesirable to transplant flowering currants. She will get sick and drop all the flowers.

Abundant watering after spring replanting will make it easier for the bush to take root.

You need to dig up the bush with a lump, trying to shake off as little soil as possible so that the risk of damage to the root system is minimized. After planting, the plant must be watered very generously with water heated in the sun or with room temperature. This ensures best conditions in order for the bush to take root. The harvest can be expected no earlier than next year, as the plant will devote all its efforts to rooting.

Autumn transplantation of currants

At the very end of autumn, when active growth ends, the movement of sap slows down and the plant loses its leaves, you can begin to replant the shrub. Stress will have the least effect on the plant during this period.

It is very important to choose right time for autumn transplantation. The plant should have about 3 weeks left for rooting before sustained frost, until the ambient temperature constantly drops below 0 °C. If you do this too early, there is a chance that the plant will mix up the seasons and throw out buds, which will inevitably freeze in winter. This will greatly weaken the bush and it will not be able to take root quickly. If you are late in carrying out this procedure, frosts will damage the root system, which has not had time to properly take root. A bush planted on time will have time to take root well before the first frost and in the spring will begin to actively grow and develop. It will bloom and produce a harvest.

Replanting currants after the leaves fly away

On winter period The currants must be covered so that they do not freeze. To do this, the bush is covered with several buckets of humus or compost. If autumn is warm and dry, then it is necessary to regularly water fresh plantings.

In the middle zone, the approximate dates for autumn transplantation are at the end of October and the beginning of November. In the northern regions, this procedure is carried out 2–3 weeks earlier.

Is it possible to replant currants in summer?

IN summer time It is extremely undesirable to start transplanting currants. But there are times when there is no other choice. For example, when a plot of land on which a varietal shrub grows is sold, and you don’t want to leave it to the new owners. Or you can’t cope with the disease and have to move the bush to an uninfected plot of land.

Mature bushes need to be dug up with the entire clod of earth. The larger the lump, the greater the chance of successful completion of the operation, because then the roots will be damaged less. The plant will need very abundant watering, especially if the weather is dry and hot.

Seedlings in individual containers can be planted throughout the growing season

If we talk about seedlings with a closed root system, purchased in individual containers, then they can be planted during the entire growing season. After replanting, it is necessary to thoroughly water the soil and mulch with humus.

How to replant an adult currant bush

First you need to decide on the landing site. Although currants are considered quite unpretentious plant, but still she has some requirements for her place of residence:

currants prefer well-lit sunny places;

does not like lowlands and areas with high humidity;

It is not advisable to plant bushes in places on the windward side;

this shrub prefers to grow freely, so it does not need to be planted along fences, fences, buildings and next to large trees(you must retreat at least one meter).

After the planting site has been determined, it is necessary to dig up the area and remove weeds, stones, debris and old roots from the ground. It is better to do this in advance, about 10–20 days in advance.

The main stages of transplantation consist of the following operations:

Planting holes are dug at a distance of about a meter from each other. For large bushes it is necessary to leave a larger distance.



The holes should be spaced apart from each other

The diameter of the hole is about 0.5–0.6 m, the depth is 0.3–0.4 m. But it is better to be guided by the size of the root system of the transplanted plants.



The depth of the hole should correspond to the size of the root system of the bush

A drainage layer at least 7–8 cm thick, consisting of a mixture of crushed stone and sand, is laid at the bottom of the pit.



Crushed stone and sand will do an excellent job as drainage

We fertilize the extracted garden soil with humus, wood ash and complex fertilizers (phosphate, potassium). Fertilizers are applied according to the instructions on the package based on the volume of soil.



When applying fertilizer to a hole, you must follow the instructions on the package.

The hole is filled with soil mixture approximately two-thirds.



Fill the hole two-thirds with soil.

Old branches are completely cut off from the bush. New shoots are shortened by half.



Before planting, old branches need to be carefully trimmed.

The plant is carefully dug up and removed together with the lump from the ground. You should not pull on the branches, as you can damage them.



The bush must be removed very carefully, without pulling it by its branches.

The dug up bush and root system need to be inspected for pests and their larvae. If there are pests, then it is necessary to treat the plant with special insecticidal solutions.



If the roots are affected by pests, then the bush must be treated with an insecticide

Water is poured into the hole to form liquid mud.



We plant the bush in a liquid substance

The bush is immersed in the slurry and sprinkled with the remains of the earth, which must be thoroughly compacted to prevent the formation of voids. The root collar deepens by 7–8 cm.



The soil around the roots of the bush must be thoroughly compacted so that there are no voids in the soil

A layer of mulch from leaves, humus, peat, pine needles, etc. is applied to prevent the top layer of soil from drying out and for fertilization.



A layer of mulch will prevent the soil from drying out

The plant must be watered abundantly for 3–4 days.



The first days it is necessary to water the transplanted bush abundantly.

It is prohibited to use fresh manure when planting currants, as this may cause a chemical burn to the roots of the plant.

There is no need to additionally feed the plant. All the nutrients necessary for the first time have already been added to the planting hole. During the growing season further care will consist of regular watering as needed.

Video: technology for transplanting shrubs, including currants

If you follow a number of simple rules, then currants will reward you with delicious and a bountiful harvest. Its berries have a valuable set of vitamins and minerals that are very beneficial for the human body.

" Currant

IN garden practice often arise situations that require transplanting currants to a new location. Most often this is due to an error in choosing a location, depletion of the soil under the bush, or redevelopment of the site.

Transplanting an adult shrub to another place - great stress for the plant, which is accompanied by pain and often leads to his death.

Therefore, the procedure must be carried out taking into account biological features and the annual cycle of currants.

When is it better to transplant currants to a new place: in autumn or spring, in which month?

Which month is more favorable? The timing of currant transplantation depends entirely on the climatic conditions of the region. In regions with harsh winters When the air temperature drops below 30°C, spring transplantation is preferable.

But at the same time, it is important to take into account the characteristics of the annual cycle of a crop that enters the growing season early. After the start of sap flow, the shrub will receive a double load, trying to take root and at the same time increasing the green mass.

Spring transplant carried out after the soil has completely thawed, the temperature has risen to +1°C and before the buds swell. This limits the timing of transplantation and reduces the time for quiet rooting to three weeks.

There are many more favorable factors when transplanting currants in autumn. This is a stable temperature until the first frost, which gives time for the roots to adapt to a new location.

In addition, in the fall, currant cells contain much more nutrients and a downward current prevails, which contribute to the rapid healing of root wounds and give strength for recovery.

Therefore, in the middle and southern regions of gardening, shrubs prefer to replant in the fall. It is important to determine the most exact dates, there should be at least three weeks left before the first frost.

The ideal time for transplantation is the period between September 10-15, it is at this time that the most active growth of absorbed roots is observed. This factor significantly increases the survival rate of currants.

Stages of proper transplantation of an adult bush

The basis for successful transplantation of an adult shrub - right choice places, preparation of soil and bushes.

Selection and preparation of a site

Red and white currant- heat-loving plants. For them, leveled areas are selected, oriented to the south or southwest. In such areas, the soil is warmed by the sun's rays, is well aerated and water does not stagnate.

Black and green currants less demanding plants. Good performance stable yields are observed when planting on slopes in a northern or northeastern direction. Short-term shading is acceptable.

The best predecessors of currants are row crops, which help clear the area of ​​rhizomatous weeds. These are potatoes, beets, corn, buckwheat and beans.

Not suitable for growing lowland currants and closed basins where it stagnates cold air and increased humidity. This contributes to the development of fungal diseases and the appearance of root rot.

The selected place is dug up in early spring to a depth of 40 cm with the application of fertilizers per 1 m2:

• compost or manure 10 kg;
• double superphosphate 10 g;
• potassium chloride 7 g.

In the summer, in August, the site is dug up again and form a hole for bushes. For spring transplantation, the site is prepared in the fall.

When deciding on the size of the pit, they are guided by the volume of the bush. In most cases a depth of 40 cm and a width of 60 cm is sufficient. For tall and remontant varieties, a depth of 60-70 cm will be required. The distance between bushes is at least 1.5 meters.

After digging, the hole is filled 1/3 with substrate. from mixed components:

• the top layer of garden soil from the pit;
• rotted manure or compost 10 kg;
• superphosphate 300 g (for black currants) 200 g (red, white);
• wood ash 400 g or potassium sulfate 30 g.

For red and white currants, dig a hole deeper and at the bottom a drainage layer of expanded clay or broken brick is formed, no more than 15% of the total volume.

After that the hole is spilled with 1-2 buckets of water. Before transplanting the currants, all conditions for comfortable adaptation of the roots will be created inside the hole.

The substrate is structured and saturated with moisture, and the added minerals and organic matter will take forms that are easy for the plant to assimilate and will not cause burns to the roots.

Currant transplantation:

Preparing red and black currant bushes

During replanting, the volume of the roots of the shrub will significantly decrease, which makes it difficult for the vegetative mass to feed. Therefore, currants trimmed 2-3 weeks before the upcoming event, leaving only areas significant for fruiting and development. At autumn planting Pruning can be done in the spring, before the buds swell.

At the base of the bush there is a branching zone. Strong side shoots grow from it; at a height of 30-40 cm, the fruiting zone begins, characterized by weak branching. The shoots here are short, but with developed flower buds, so most of the harvest is placed on them.

On the top The branches also produce fruit buds en masse, which are noticeably weaker and produce only small berries. Therefore, the main branches of the bush are cut by 1/3, without fear of harm to the next season’s harvest. After trimming average height currants should be 45-50 cm.

Productivity of currant fruit 5 years, there is no point in leaving outdated branches on the bush. The development of currants is hampered by tops, shoots and dried branches; these should also be removed.

You should not combine pruning shrubs with replanting. This is a double load for the plant, which will distribute forces to heal wounds and adapt roots to a new location. This can cause the death of currants.

You can transplant it to another place!

During replanting, a groove 30-35 cm deep is dug around the tree trunk circle, 40 cm away from the trunk. After this, you need to carefully pull the bush at the base of the branches, cut off the holding roots with a bayonet shovel.

For the convenience of the event currant branches are tied like a spindle. Additionally, this will protect against breakage of fruit branches. The dug up shrubs are placed on a tarpaulin for transportation to the planting site.

Further inspect the roots, clean them of pests, cut off dried and rotten areas. The disinfection procedure is carried out by placing the roots of the plant in a 1% solution of potassium permanganate for 15 minutes.

A shrub with healthy roots is transplanted without pre-treatment.

At the bottom of the planting hole form a mound from the prepared substrate and spill 1-2 buckets of water. After this, wait until the water is absorbed. Landing in too humid environment will lead to excessive shrinkage of the bush, which often causes improper development.

It is also taken into account that the root collar of the bush should remain 5 cm below the surface of the substrate.

With respect to the cardinal directions, the currants are placed in the same way as before. Currant roots are distributed over the surface of the mound, preventing unnatural bends upward.

When filling the roots, make sure that no voids are formed., which often become the cause of decay. To do this, the bush is periodically shaken during the procedure.

The surface is compacted and a hole for watering is formed around the tree trunk circle. Water (20 l) is poured in gradually, waiting until completely absorbed. With this type of watering, the water completely covers the roots, increasing their contact with the soil.

After this, the tree trunk circle and hole are mulched with peat, humus or turf soil.

Aftercare

After transplanting, the shrub will need the help of a gardener. The soil in the tree trunk circle is maintained in a constantly loose state. This is necessary to create an optimal balance of water and air for good nutrition and respiration of roots.

At the base of the bush, loosening is carried out to a depth of 5-6 cm, closer to the watering hole up to 15 cm.

In autumn, the bush is prepared for winter:

• clean the tree trunk circle from plant debris;
• lay a layer of peat or straw mulch at least 15 cm in height;
• cover the trunk with spruce branches;
• spray with fungicides;
• the branches are collected towards the center and tied with twine;
• They pull snow towards the bushes.

In the first two weeks after planting, if there is no rain, will need regular watering every other day. In such a way that the soil is moistened to a depth of 60 cm. For this, 3-4 buckets of water are used.

In the first year, currants will not need fertilizing. After two weeks, the timing of irrigation is determined by the condition of the soil under the bush.

The crumbling of soil into small pieces after squeezing in your hand indicates the need for urgent watering. This indicator is used throughout the growing season.

Weakened shrubs are most attractive to pests and diseases, which is explained by a temporary loss of stability. Therefore, the gardener’s task during this period is complete control over the currants, especially in the first year of development.

A Insecticides and fungicides can help with this, which can be prepared from herbal ingredients or purchased ready-made preparations.

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 1:

How to transplant a currant bush without risk, part 2: