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Keeping long-eared animals has long been practiced by industrial farms and ordinary people who have decided to organize a small farm on their property. Keeping furry animals is a pleasure, as they do not require constant attention and are quite easy to care for. For the business to be successful, you need to provide the animals with comfortable living conditions. Today we will tell you what rabbit cages you can make with your own hands.

When choosing a place for the future residence of animals and installing their cage houses, you need to pay attention to some parameters of the selected territory.

Cages for eared animals can be placed:

• on the street;
• indoors.

Of course, the first option is suitable only for those farms that are located in the southern regions with a consistently warm and mild climate. Otherwise, in winter time Animals will not survive outside without shelter. If you and your rabbits are planning to live in just such a fertile place, consider the following rules.

1. The level of air humidity that rabbits tolerate well has an upper limit of 75%. They will not be able to physically endure a greater percentage of it; they will begin to waste away and get sick. Based on this, the place to install the cages should be dry, located far from bodies of water, preferably on a hill.
2. There are recommendations regarding sun exposure as well. Eared animals like to bask under them only in cartoons; in life, this will only bring harm and lead to widespread diseases and death of animals. To prevent direct sunlight from hitting the cages, place them in the shade garden trees or organize awnings. If rabbit breeding is your life's work, you can plant a bush fence that will scatter the sun's rays, letting them pass through.

During insulation, pay attention to those cages that are prepared for pregnant rabbits and newborn rabbits.

Requirements for indoor housing for rabbits

Growing, breeding and feeding rabbits

Building a comfortable hutch for rabbits is less than half the battle. It is equally important to properly organize the process of keeping, feeding and breeding rabbits. Read on to find out what features exist in the process of raising rabbits and what are the differences in the methods of keeping them.

Let's start building

Before you start construction work, you need to choose the right materials to be used in its process.

Necessary materials

When creating housing for rabbits, it is better to give preference to natural materials in order to bring the keeping of animals as close as possible to natural conditions. Therefore, as a basis for cells it is necessary to choose wooden blocks high quality, which are additionally treated with antiseptics.

Additionally, to build cells we will need:

• boards and quality wood;
• thin plywood;
• fine-mesh welded mesh;
• wooden slats, 3-4 centimeters wide;
• metal wire of medium thickness;
• wide plastic trays according to the size of the cells;

Sheath inner surface It is best to use plywood for cage walls, as it is moisture resistant and strong material. Chipboard, for example, is not suitable for such a purpose, since it absorbs moisture and collapses due to swelling.

What types of cages are there for rabbits?

All rabbit hutches are built according to some general principles however, they still have differences. All the nuances of construction depend on what breeds and individuals of the rabbit people will live inside the cages being built. There will be at least several species in your household, and here's why.

As you can see, cells can differ in many ways, depending on the characteristics of future residents. However, for each of them there is general instructions construction, which varies depending on the goals. Let's start looking at it.

Important nuances

Before we announce the instructions themselves, let’s clarify some important points. Standard sizes spacious rabbit hutch consists of:

• 120-170 centimeters in length;
• about 50 centimeters in height;
• 70-80 centimeters wide.

As a rule, if the cell parameters change, only the length is reduced. The height and width remain standard, since these are the parameters that are most comfortable for care.

Mixing rabbits of different genders in the same cage is prohibited, as this can lead to:

• uncontrolled matings;
• difficult to track pregnancies;
• fights between males for the attention of females;
• fights of females for the attention of males;
• strangling of each other's offspring by warring females.

Instructions for building a rabbit cage yourself

So let's move on to step-by-step instructions building a cage for rabbits. We propose to consider housing for eared animals, consisting of two sections. Adults will live in one of them, and pregnant queens with offspring will live in the second. For a while, until you have a nursing female with cubs, you can put houses for rabbits in the nesting compartment, in which they will hide when they are in a bad mood and want to take a break from their furry roommates.

Let's start building.

Step 1

Take the prepared wooden beams and treat them with antiseptics. This is necessary to prevent the tree from rotting and the penetration of harmful microorganisms into its structure, which can subsequently ruin the health of the eared animals.

Remember, the composition of antiseptics should be as gentle as possible and not contain large amounts of chlorine, which burns wood and destroys its structure. This is important because the cells are used mercilessly and it is necessary that they last a long time.

Step 2

Take wooden beam, prepared ahead of time and cut it so that you get parts with the following parameters:

• 4 beams of 1.5 meters each;
• the same number of bars 55 centimeters each;
• two pairs of bars 70 centimeters each.

Instead of four bars 55 centimeters long, you can make only two and two more 35 centimeters each. The smaller ones will be installed as frame pieces for the back of the cage where we will place the queen nest.

Step 3

Connect the shortest and half-meter beams together to create two identical shapes. If the parameters of the bars for the frame of the front and back of the cage are the same, then you will get a rectangle, if different, you will get a trapezoid.

Step 4

Now connect the rectangles together using pieces of wood 70 centimeters long. You should end up with a wooden one frame construction shaped like a large box.

Step 5

Let's start installing the floor. It can be made from several different materials. We present a comparative table of the pros and cons of each of them.

A good solution would be to use combinations, for example, the first layer can be made from metal profile, welded in the usual way, without small and frequent holes. The second layer is made of fine mesh. The profile will prevent it from deforming and this floor will last a long time.

It is impossible to make a non-mesh floor in the main compartment, since animal feces will pass through the holes and accumulate in the tray under the cage.

Install the selected material on most of the future floor of the cage and secure it with fasteners. Leave 40-50 centimeters blank

Step 6

The remaining unfilled space under the floor must be made of wood and solid, since the rabbit’s nest will be located there. It is best to screw a board to the beams, which must be well sanded so that the animal does not get injured. At the junction of the cells and the board, screw in a metal strip and weld the mesh to it.

Step 7

Let's start covering the walls. The back one is also made from boards polished and impregnated with gentle antiseptics. The front one is made of mesh so that you can observe what your pets are doing. Leave the ceiling unclogged.

Step 8

We line the plank walls from the inside of the cage using plywood. The material must be multi-layered and good quality. The thickness can be any, but you don’t need to take a very thick sheet so as not to make the structure too weighty.

You can fasten plywood using self-tapping screws or nails. The main thing is that the sharp part of the nail does not come out and does not injure you when caring for the cage.

Step 9

We are building a roof. To do this we need a sheet of plywood and hinges, like on doors or cabinets. First, we screw the hinges to one of the upper beams of the frame, then we plant a sheet of good plywood on them. Here it is better to choose a thicker material, because the roof of the house will constantly rise and fall. Make sure it fits snugly. If between the frame and the roof there are large gaps, harmful drafts cannot be avoided.

If it was not possible to fit the lid to the frame tightly, do not despair. Take some felt or padding polyester and cover the perimeter of the roof. This can be done even if there are no cracks, since in winter period Such insulation will be useful for long-eared people.

Step 10

At the junction of the wire mesh and the boards, install a board that goes from floor to ceiling and from wall to wall. Make a medium-sized hole in advance so that the rabbits can move freely from one cage to another.

Step 11

Place the cages on supports that have been previously installed in the rabbitry. Now, mount the tray from the bottom of the cage. It can only match the size of the mesh part of the floor, since the feces of the rabbit and baby rabbits will not leak through the wooden floors.

Step 12

Now install feeders and drinkers inside the cages. You can also make them yourself from wood, in the form of small troughs. Be sure to find a place for hay as well. Some rabbit breeders place it in homemade hanging structures so that rabbits can reach it and at the same time not trample it, turning it into bedding.

Now that you have learned how to make the simplest version of rabbit cages, let's turn our attention to other popular options.

Family cage

The family home for long-eared animals no longer consists of two, but of three sections. A breeding male with good quality characteristics of health and appearance is settled there. Females live in the side compartments, and males live in the middle compartment. Between the rooms there are manholes, this time with valves. This is necessary so that at the moment one of the females is ready to conceive offspring, release her to the inseminator, and then do the same with the other rabbit.

This option for constructing cages is considered very effective for breeding purebred animals, as it allows you to pre-sort suitable friend friend of individuals and track upcoming pregnancies.

Construction Features

Let's name some points in building cells from three sections that will help you during construction.

Cages for rabbits in two tiers

Construction two-tier design rabbit cages are not too different from a single-tier cage. Such a structure will have the following parameters:

• height 2 - 2.5 meters;
• width 1.4 meters;
• Along the edges of the structure, every 10 centimeters are allocated for the installation of feeders.

The dimensions may vary depending on your idea, but making the cage smaller is not rational.

Construction instructions

So, let's start building a two-tier cage.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Exactly the same as in the first instructions, we connect the bars to make four frame frames. Each of them will serve as the bottom and top of two cells. We also saw off eight bars of equal height for the corner parts of the cell “skeleton”.
	Step 2. Making floors for cages. The larger part, as in the case of a single-tier structure, will be mesh, the smaller part will be solid, made of boards. We leave a small distance of about 10 centimeters at the back wall, where we will place a drain for animal waste. This distance should be covered with a dense mesh with cells bigger size than the main one for the floor.
	Step 3. The back wall is made of boards, then lined with plywood on the inside. The side and front walls are also equipped with mesh with medium-sized cells.
	Step 4. Using slats and metal plugs, we separate the inside of the house for the eared compartments, leaving space between them for a shaped hay box English letter"V".
	Step 5. We attach metal sheets to the waste disposal compartment that go to the tray under the cage. Each cage has its own collection of excrement and is installed so that it can be pulled out and cleaned. For the upper tier it is placed on the ceiling of the lower one, and for the lower one - on special corners of the stand, mounted in the holding frame for the cages.
	Step 6. We equip the roofs for each of the tiers from plywood, reinforced with felt or thick linoleum.

To make it possible to care for caged animals, make the back wall or roof hinged.

Video - Cage for rabbits, self-building

Cell according to the Mikhailov method

Today there are many popular methods of breeding eared animals. One of the most effective is Mikhailov’s mini-farm. The features of the mini-farm are as follows. It allows you to receive a large number of healthy offspring and raise them into productive adults with minimal attention from the farmer.

The design features of Mikhailov’s mini-farm make it possible to achieve the following positive effects.

Cell cleansing occurs without human intervention. And we are talking not only about animal feces, but also about food waste containing harmful fumes. Rabbits do not inhale them and remain healthy. Due to the fact that inside the rabbit houses such a high level hygiene, infection-carrying insects do not fly inside, since they simply have nothing to profit from.

Adding food and adding water to the feeders occurs once a week. Yes, now you are freed from the need to constantly monitor the presence of these batteries in the cage of your charges every day. The fact is that the feeders constantly fill themselves as they eat food from the feeders. Another plus is that in winter the water in the drinking bowls is automatically heated.

Areas for pregnant and newborn rabbits with their offspring are also warmed up in cold weather, which allows animals to crossbreed all year round and ensure the health of newborns.

The internal structure of the cell is as close as possible to natural conditions, which provokes the activation of instincts in animals. Thus, the queen cell reminds an animal of a hole, since it is located below the main level of the cell, and the entrance to it actually imitates a rabbit hole. The ceiling in the nesting compartment is slanted, as if this really is not a cage, but a long-eared dugout.

Open areas of the wall alternate with closed ones so that rabbits can get privacy and take a break from attention from humans or other animals.

Mikhailov's cage is also equipped with folding doors, which allow you to pick up a baby rabbit unnoticed by the rabbits or, on the contrary, add them. This is necessary when a litter is too small or too large for one individual. If there are too many cubs, the mother may kill or eat several alive. In this case, it is necessary to remove the baby and transfer it to the queen who gave birth to the small offspring.

The part of the cage that is installed to the north is insulated. The south side, on the contrary, is equipped with ventilation so that Fresh air entered the houses. The roof is equipped with a pipe through which gases from animal excrement are emitted. Feeders and drinking bowls are sealed to prevent waste from getting into them.

Design Review

The area of ​​each cell is 1.4 m2. Up to 25 heads fit inside. The main element of the structure is a shed - a barn consisting of several tiers of rabbit cages in one or two tiers. Such a shad can contain 70 houses. If we take this number as a basis, then queens will live in 35 of them, and adult males and young rabbits will live in the rest.

It is customary to make about two rows of cells, together occupying 8.5 m2. These cells have only one roof.

Implemented Mikhailov cage

The shelf life of Mikhailov's mini-farm is about 20 years. Then it will have to be renewed or completely replaced with a new design.

Necessary materials

We warn you that if you do not have sufficient experience in construction, it is easier to purchase a Mikhailov cage. But if you are confident that you can handle it, stock up on the following materials:

• sheets of plywood;
• paint;
• nails;
• roofing iron;
• wooden beam;
• boards;
• roofing felt;
• Fiberboard soft and hard;
• picket fence

Assembling the stand

Assemble the stand by carefully examining its image in the photo. The horizontal section of the stand will contain the support part for the homemade transformer compartment, as well as tool shelves and benches. This is where they make a hole rectangular shape, leading from a sealed tank to a bunker for collecting excrement, which flows into it along the shaft walls. The shaft is covered with fiberboard and roofing felt, resistant to frost and moisture.

Walking area and nests

Two pairs of posts are mounted on the stand, the cross-section of which should not exceed 10 centimeters. The tier below will rest on them, consisting of several compartments in which rabbits are caught for inspection or are deposited.

The walking area is equipped with a drinking bowl and feeding trough. In its lower part there is a hole measuring 20 by 20 centimeters, which goes into the shaft. The floor is laid with a picket fence laid on slats, which are covered with strips of metal to protect against rodents. The flooring is made at an angle of 45 degrees.

The nesting compartment is equipped with a hinged door that folds open to create a free area for interacting with the rabbits. The location of the bottom of the queen cell goes down relative to the level of the main floor by 9 centimeters. The outside walls of the house for mothers and babies are insulated with any available materials. The entrance to the compartment is also insulated. To arbitrarily overlap it, install a view.

Drinkers and feeders

The drinking bowl is represented by an automatic structure. The water trough itself can be anything, be it a plastic bowl or a wooden one. This bowl contains outlets from several 5-liter canisters. Centimeter holes are drilled in each lid of the canister so that the water drains down gradually and only when the rabbit has drunk enough so that the trough does not overfill.

What size the area of ​​the drinking compartment will be directly depends on the capacity and size of the canister itself, as well as the trough. The door to the compartment is made of a sheet of plywood and metal. One edge of the watering trough must be hidden from rabbits in order to install a small electric boiler there, which automatically starts working when the air temperature drops below +8°C.

A feeder is installed next to the drinking bowl, into which mixed feed in granules is poured. It is installed in a small gap between the parts of the flooring, in which the disposal device is located. It contains waste - crumbs and flour, as well as pellets trampled by rabbits. And from there they roll into the recycling bin.

The feed bowl for roughage is located at the top and bottom of the farm. WITH outside the cages are hung from a tank in which hay and vegetables are placed.

Installation of the upper tier

The upper tier can serve as a mother and jigging level. In the first case, it is made at an angle, in the same way as described above. In the second, they are divided into two sections of different sizes, into which small rabbits will then be placed.

The length of the upper tier is 25 centimeters longer than the lower one. A drinker and a feeder are also installed in each section according to the methods described above.

Roof

The roof is made sloping, and a pipe is installed on top of it to ventilate the premises. This pipe is necessary to remove from the cell accumulations of harmful fumes that are released during the life of eared animals.

Bottom part

At the bottom of the cage there is a box into which rabbit droppings are poured. This allows animal excrement to be used for gardening purposes and eliminates the need for the farmer to constantly clean the cages of feces.

Mikhailov's cell – effective option for rabbit breeding business. This design requires minimal labor and time from the farmer. So, it takes about half an hour a week to care for the animals - to fill the feeders, drinkers and clean the trays. Long-eared animals kept in such a farm gain in three months of their life such weight that rabbits in normal care can only gain in 6-8 months.

Cages for rabbits Zolotukhina

Another famous farm concept for efficient rabbit breeding. Nikolai Ivanovich Zolotukhin studied the life of rabbits in natural conditions from an early age and, in the prime of his career, developed this amazing structure that increases the efficiency of raising rabbits by activating their natural instincts.

The Zolotuha cage farm has three tiers and is quite simply made. Let's start looking at the instructions for making it.

To build a cell, we need:

• wooden beams;
• boards;
• metal grid;
• sheet iron;
• high-quality polycarbonate;
• slate.

Construction instructions

So, first of all, let’s determine the dimensions of the future cell:

• the width of the rabbit's home is 2 meters;
• height of the structure – 1.5;
• the depth of the structure is no more than 80 centimeters;
• rear floor slope - 5 centimeters;
• the mesh at the back wall occupies 20 centimeters;
• the doors are made in the shape of a square with 40 centimeters in length on one side.

Let's start building.

Photo	Step
	Step 1. Cell scaffolds are assembled using a method already familiar to you. Each of them is divided into two equal halves, between which there is a small distance to accommodate the hay barn.
	Step 2. This time, for the floor, not mesh is used, but durable slate. When laying and attaching slate sheets to the frame, calculate that you need to retreat 20 centimeters from the back wall. This space is covered welded mesh, through which the feces of eared animals will be discharged.
	Step 3. Now let's start making the walls. The back walls are made of carbonate sheets at a specific angle. The upper part of each wall is mounted to the end of the slate floor of the next highest tier. At the very top tier it is straight. Thanks to this design, rabbit droppings roll along the walls of each of the tiers and eventually fall into the tray.
	Step 4. We make a door for the queen cells and feed compartments. In the first case, we prepare it from wood and insulate it to create the necessary conditions for the rabbits. In the second, we make it from mesh.
	Step 5. Nests for summer maintenance are also made with mesh walls. They are separated from the remaining space by a board partition, which can then be removed to create a spacious cage for young animals. Winter queen cells, wooden, with closed walls. The entrance to it is also wooden, with a closing hole, Bottom part which is in contact with the floor. Hay is spread on the floor.
	Step 6. We make feeders. These devices are a tray that occupies most of the wall of the cage located in front. The feeder is inserted into the cage only one third, its bottom is made at an angle. This is necessary so that the feeder can be filled from the outside without opening the cage. A drinking bowl is also installed inside.

Zolotukhin cells are famous and have been successful for many decades. Their simple production makes them popular, and their rabbit-breeding effect is amazing.

Cages for dwarf rabbits: step-by-step instructions

Not only farmers, but also those who have chosen this cute animal as their pet can make a cage for a rabbit. Of course, it is easier to buy such a structure, but it costs a lot of money, which can instead be spent on buying vitamins and food for the eared ones.

Making a house for a rabbit with your own hands will take very little time and will not require serious labor costs.

Step 1. Assemble the frame for the cage according to the mechanism described above. This time the frame parameters will be as follows:

• length – 1 meter;
• the height of the bars for the rear wall is 55 centimeters;
• the height of the bars for the side walls is 70 centimeters;
• frame width – 70 centimeters.

Step 2. Assemble the frame so that there is a distance of 15 centimeters between the lower end of the back wall and the future floor.

Step 3. Nail wide wooden slats to the bottom of the cage or install a welded mesh made of a metal profile. This support is needed to give rigidity to the future mesh floor. When the slats or profile are installed, install fine mesh on top.

Step 4. Make walls for the cage. The back one can be made from plywood or boards, and the rest from metal mesh with small cells. Make one of the walls also plywood or wood and cut a hole in it for the door.

Step 5. Make the door from wooden frame and metal mesh and place it on the loops to the hole.

Let's sum it up

Now you know many of the most popular ways to build rabbit cages. The choice of the option that suits you will be based on the following nuances:

• starting budget;
• rabbit breeding experience;
• region of residence;
• size of livestock, etc.

The main requirement is high quality designs

For example, cages using the Mikhailov mini-farm method will help to minimize labor costs and loss of time for caring for animals, however, it is very difficult to place this serious structure inside a barn, which makes the use of the structure in regions with long cold winters almost impossible. In addition, the equipment of such a cage requires money and construction experience. Beginning rabbit breeders will not benefit from spending so much money, especially if they are not sure that they will want to keep rabbits for many years.

Zolotukhin's cages do not require large financial expenditures, but they imply that the number of rabbits contained in them will not be small. Therefore, this option is not entirely rational for farmers starting out in the rabbit business.

Construction of cages for rabbits involves certain questions: how many and what breed of rabbits will you breed, and will you engage in breeding. After this, we select the type of enclosure and begin work. We use the most affordable materials - plywood or wood, mesh and slate. Since rabbits will gnaw cells from the inside, we do not use in our work anything that can harm their health: chemical antiseptics, materials with metal shavings.

The main types of enclosures - what are common and how are they different?

Rabbits are capricious animals to keep. The enclosure can be located both indoors and outdoors. But outdoor cages are only suitable for the southern regions, otherwise the long-eared ones will freeze in winter. Optimal temperature keeping rabbits - from 10 to 20 degrees. In enclosures, drafts, direct sunlight and humidity above 75% should be avoided. Taking all this into account, find the most optimal place and start choosing the type of enclosure.

There are several types of cages for rabbits:

• simple cells, with or without queen cell; with or without an enclosure for walking;
• I. N. Mikhailov cells;
• cells of N.I. Zolotukhin.

Regardless of the type of enclosure, it is placed at a height of at least 70 cm from the ground in one or several tiers. This can be done using high legs or wall mounts. This way the rabbits will be protected from rodents and other animals, and the indoor air will circulate better. The size of a rabbit's home depends on the breed, gender and age.

Simple cells - advantages and disadvantages

To make enclosures with their own hands, they try to use natural materials, for example, boards. Since rabbits chew everything they come across, chipboard should not be used. It is both harmful to animals and will crumble quickly. Often, the inside of a rabbit's home is protected from animal teeth by iron sheathing. But this can only be done if the temperature is stable both in winter and summer. Otherwise, the iron will become very hot from the sun or cool in winter.

Particular attention is paid to the floor of the enclosure. Rabbit urine is very caustic and therefore corrodes wood. Most often, the floor is made of mesh. Sometimes a lattice is made of wooden slats. This way all the feces will flow down. It will be much easier to clean the cages, which means the rabbits are less likely to get sick.

In the manufacture of cells for decorative rabbits do not use mesh, because due to the lack of pads on their paws, they simply cannot sit on such a floor for a long time.

Attach the queen cell to the enclosures if you plan to breed rabbits. It is in the queen cell that the female gives birth and nurses the rabbits. Only when they get stronger does she move to the main room. The quality and quantity of the offspring is influenced by the attached enclosure for walking, since the high mobility of individuals contributes to their reproduction.

Mikhailov cages - mini rabbit farm

Mikhailov’s design is more complex enclosures, suitable for large farms. They are often used in industry, helping to significantly reduce labor costs. The construction of such an enclosure is patented, has automatic cleaning and feeding, and heated queen cells. Most often this is a three-level house with a middle floor for feeding and an upper floor for walking. Building it yourself is quite difficult; for this you need a good construction experience and significant financial expenses.

Zolotukhin cells - saving space and building material

Zolotukhin cells are easier to manufacture. The main one distinctive feature the fact that the floor is made at a slope. It uses not the usual mesh, but plywood or slate. The mesh is installed only near the cell wall. According to research, rabbits relieve themselves near walls in 90% of cases. Zolotukhin’s design takes up little space; the cells in it are arranged in three rows of two. This saves both space and material for work. Such enclosures are well suited for keeping a large number of rabbits; it is not advisable to use them for several individuals.

Making a regular cell

To save material and space, the cells are made at least in pairs. For the base, take a board 3 m long by 0.7 m. This way you can fit two compartments 1.5 meters long. These cage sizes are suitable for young animals or males. For females, a smaller size is sufficient. First of all, you need to prepare drawings with dimensions based on tips and illustrations.

To make this design you will need:

• 2 sheets of plywood (1.5 by 1.5 meters);
• 10 three-meter bars (30 by 50 mm);
• 3 m mesh with 15 mm cells;
• screws and tools for work.

The size of the cells in the mesh used should not exceed 20 mm, otherwise the rabbits will get stuck in them.

Before making a homemade enclosure, many farmers advise treating the wood with antibacterial impregnations. It is worth choosing the safest formulations, since otherwise you can poison the animal. First of all, a frame with a height of 1.2 in front and 1 meter in back is made from bars.

Then the floor is hemmed with mesh. There is no need to reach the edges with the mesh; the queen cells will be located there, and the floor in them will be made without holes. The back wall is made of plywood, attached to the bars with self-tapping screws. At the edges, queen cells are also made from plywood. The ceiling in them is lowered a little so that they look more like a hole. A small hole with a diameter of 16 centimeters is made in the side wall. This queen cell can be made removable if desired.

A feeder is made in the center. It is more convenient to divide it into two parts: for feed and for hay. The first is a tall box with a bowl base. And the second is a trapezoidal box made of mesh.

The roof is made of plywood with overlaps of 5-10 centimeters. You can make it in two parts, leaving a gap in the middle. It will be convenient to fill feeders. Then the doors are made using bars and mesh.

According to the same step by step instructions you can make a cage with two or three floors. But in this case, the roof is covered with some kind of protective material. For example, they are upholstered with sheet iron or polycarbonate. Then your rabbit house will last longer.

Making a Zolotukhin cell

Making an enclosure using Zolotukhin’s method with your own hands is not much more difficult than building an ordinary cage. For this you will need:

• wooden beams;
• net;
• boards;
• sheet iron;
• polycarbonate;
• slate.

The enclosure will be built in the following dimensions: 2 m wide, 1.5 m high, 80 cm deep. The floor slope is 5 centimeters, and a 20-centimeter strip of mesh will be located at the back wall.

First we build a similar frame for the enclosure. We leave room in the middle for a hay barn. But the floor, unlike a regular cage, is lined not with mesh, but with durable slate. Don't forget to make an indent of 20 centimeters from the back wall.

The rear walls are made of polycarbonate. They need to be secured at an angle so that the top of the wall meets the slate edge of the floor of the next floor. And at the very top tier it is straight. This arrangement allows rabbit droppings to roll down the walls.

Closed queen cells are made on the sides of the structure, similar to a regular cage. We make all the other walls and doors of the enclosure from mesh.

The feeder in Zolotukhin’s model is also not easy. It is inserted directly into the door and is held on by hinge nails. Thanks to this, you can pour food and clean the feeder without opening the door. It occupies approximately 2/3 of the width of the door. Outer wall the feeder is twice as high as the inner one.

It is not for nothing that Zolotukhin cells have long been very popular: they are easy to manufacture and easy to maintain.

It is best to start building enclosures from the very simple option. Later, based on the experience gained, you can move on to more complex structures, including to Mikhailov’s mini-farm.

Rabbits grow quickly and produce offspring, besides, their meat and skin are very are valued consumers.

If we add to this unpretentiousness animals, then it becomes clear: their breeding in the household can be sufficient profitable business.

But you can’t place lop-eared pets on the street - they’ll run away and you’ll have to make some houses.

And to create for rabbits optimal conditions For development, cells must be comfortable and adaptable to different situations.

Types of cells

Eat some types of rabbit cells. They differ in design and purpose.

Currently, the industry produces cells of all types; many options can be made with your own hands from improvised means.

1. Single cell cage – regular box with doors in which one rabbit is placed, or a large compartment where young animals are placed for walking.
2. Two-section cages separated by a V-shaped mesh feeder, you can keep two adult rabbits in them and open a hole between the compartments if mating is necessary.
3. Three-section cells designed for three adult individuals: a male lives in the middle, a female at the edges, and a system of closing doors between the cells. You need to let the rabbit go to the rabbit - they opened it, they enjoyed life - they closed it, and the animals are always together.
4. IN cages similar to the Klenov-Chegodaeva state farm contain two adults. This is a version of a two-section cage for keeping rabbits outside. Length – 240 cm, width – 65. The walls of the maternity ward and the back of the nursery have a height of 45 cm, the front – 65. To clean the cage and put feeders and drinkers in it, the roof of the nursery is raised.
5. Cells of the Mikhailov mini-farm design equipped automatic feeders and drinking bowls, as well as a semi-automatic waste collection system. Such cages need to be cleaned no more than once a week. But their design is too complex to create at home. It's easier to buy a ready-made option.
6. Zolotukhin cell project- This is a space-saving, easy-to-clean and very pet-friendly option. Unlike most models with bars that are inconvenient for animals to move around, it has a slightly sloping wooden floor, and the grid is placed only at the back wall. The cage is washed with water and all waste flows through the grate. To save space, Zolotukhin proposed placing cages one above the other in several tiers, with feeders and drinkers located on one door common to the vertical. The back wall is slightly inclined so that when cleaning, waste does not flow onto the rabbits from the lower tiers.
7. IN Maklyak-6 system It is proposed to make two-section cages, place floors according to the Zolotukhin method, but between the departments, so that waste does not reach the rabbits from the lower floors, pyramidal outlets are used, which taper to the mesh of the lower box. The floors are inserted into special grooves and can be easily removed if dismantling is necessary. The doors are double-leaf, located on the front wall; feeders and drinking bowls are attached to them.

For a review of the mini-farm for rabbits Maklyak-6, see in the video:

Not always needed for rabbits solid dwellings:

• If rabbits are kept in room, then it is not necessary to make the walls from wood, because the cage is already protected from bad weather conditions; you can make it entirely from wire;
• Decorative Rabbits in the house can be kept in a comfortable rodent cage purchased at a pet store, the main thing is that it is spacious enough. Ferplast cells have proven themselves well;
• Californian Rabbits are smaller in size; for them you can choose a cage with an area of ​​0.5 m².

• supports for walls made of wood or metal;
• side walls made of plywood, wood or mesh (the latter option is only suitable for keeping cages indoors);
• front wall (made of mesh or slats) with door;
• canopy or roof, which will protect rabbits from unpleasant weather phenomena, with a slight slope;
• And feeders.

Note! According to veterinary standards, one rabbit requires space 0.72 m², but for giant breeds this may not be enough and larger premises should be provided.

Materials and tools

To make a rabbit cage you will be needed the following tools:

• hammer;
• scissors for metal;
• screwdrivers or screwdriver;
• Bulgarian;
• square, roulette and level;
• saw or jigsaw;
• pen or pencil for marking;

Can use materials remaining after repair and construction work, or purchase new ones. You will need:

• corner, profile or wooden beam - for the frame;
• galvanized or sheet iron, slate - for walls;
• roofing elements: sheets of slate, or iron, tiles. IN economical option you can cover the cage with linoleum;
• net with cells 15 mm for the floor and front wall;
• mesh with cells 35–40 mm for the feeder;
• sheets galvanized sheet for making an external feeder;
• self-tapping screws;
• loops.

Drawing up a drawing

Before you start cutting materials, you should work on drawing with dimensions.

In the picture it is necessary to provide places where sections, feeders, drinkers and doors will be installed.

Square, required for one female rabbit with offspring, - 1.2 x 0.65 m. Optimal height the front wall is at least 0.75 m, the rear wall is at least 0.5 m.

Costs take account following:

• Outdoor cages for rabbits should lift up above the ground by 0.8 meters. This will be a reliable barrier for rats and snakes and will make cleaning the cage easier;
• To make efficient use of space, it is better to place cells in several tiers;
• Rabbits don't like drafts, therefore, outdoor cages must be made with solid back and side walls;
• In cages where female rabbits with rabbits will be kept, it is necessary to provide nest in the side part there is a separate small completely darkened closed room, which will replace the hole, the size 0.65 x 0.55 m, with closing doors. In outdoor cages during the winter it is necessary insulate;
• The nest must have manhole in the light part, raised 0.1 m above the floor, this will prevent the rabbits from falling out;
• External It is better to make the door covering the light compartment mesh and attach a feeder and drinking bowl to it;
• Can be equipped walking area, making a door behind the light compartment leading to a fenced area of ​​the yard.

Assembly order

When all necessary for the manufacture of the cage is available, you can start to the assembly of the structure:

• First of all we do the front and back frames, after which we combine them together, securing the ceiling and floor lintels;
• Before fastening the frames, you need to use a level and square to make sure that all corners;
• Then we install the frames for doors and feeders;
• The next stage is installation floor, which is attached to the frame with self-tapping screws;
• Installing rear and side walls;
• Strengthening external wooden walls metal sheet or mesh;
• We assemble the nesting compartment from wood and install it in the cage;
• Install roof tiers;
• First, the cells of the lower tiers, then the second and third;
• When all the main compartments are assembled, you need to attach the doors, feeders and drinking bowls.

Important! Regardless of what material you use for the cage - new or previously used, make sure that there are no nicks or other dangers for rabbits.

Basic rules for caring for rabbits

So that your pets are healthy and happy, it is necessary observe the following rules:

• Rabbit cages should be sufficient spacious, otherwise the animals will begin to get fat, which can lead to a decrease in offspring and even a complete refusal to mate;
• Rabbits more willingly mate if you transfer the female to the rabbit, and not vice versa;
• It is best to carry out mating in such a way that the rabbits are not born during periods extreme temperatures (too cold or hot);
• Pretty rabbits smart Animals don't like iron or plastic. If they start gnaw cage, which means they need something lacks: feed, wood for grinding teeth or mineral salts. Please note what is missing from this list in cells.

The cage needs to be periodically disinfect. Processing is required in the following cases:

• before transfer rabbits;
• before births;
• when diseases.

For disinfection, special veterinary drugs:

• Virosan(100 ml);
• Creolin phenolic-free coal tar;
• PVP iodine spray;
• Ecocide S(Ecocid S);
• Bleaching powder in the form of a 10% solution;
• Ash liquor(add 1/3 of wood ash to water and boil for 20–30 minutes).

Before disinfection rabbits removed from the cage. All surfaces are carefully are cleared using water and a scraper, then are being processed disinfectant.

Attention! When working with disinfectants precautions must be taken. After finishing the treatment, the room must be ventilated and hands washed with soap.

Another way is disinfection using blowtorch. In this case, fire is treated wooden surfaces until they turn brown. Influenced high temperature kills all microbes. Removable metal, plastic and ceramic parts are best boil.

For step-by-step construction of a rabbit cage with dimensions, see the following video:

If for large animals it is enough to build a regular barn, then for breeding rabbits you need to take care special conditions. The best solution In terms of price-quality ratio, it will be possible to make an animal house with your own hands. It's cheap and also allows you to take everything into account peculiarities breeding and location. In this article we will look at what material needs to be used for this purpose, what is worth taking into account, and we will analyze the drawings.

Selection of necessary materials

The material is selected based on the type of cell. Any structure has a frame, floor, walls, door and ceiling. For building rabbit hutches houses Metal mesh and wood are most often used. The cell of this mesh should have a diameter of no more than 2 by 2 cm and no less than 16 by 47 mm (this depends on the age and weight of the animal).

The materials for building the cage are:

• plywood sheets;
• bars;
• slate;
• nails and screws;
• slats;
• mesh with cells;
• for door bolts and curtains;
• drinking bowls and feeders.

The wood is sanded and sanded, and the ends of the mesh are securely fastened. Sharp edges must be removed to prevent injury to animals, and protruding wooden parts are covered with tin. Rabbits love it very much gnaw wood - this is how they grind their teeth. To do this, you need to put twigs in their feeder. The roof and walls are made of plywood and mesh, and the main frame will be wooden blocks. Their size will depend on the location of the structure: if the cage will be placed on the street, then the legs of the frame should be from 80 cm, and when installed indoors - 35-40 cm.

If the structure will stand in an open space, then it is necessary to roofing materials. Don't do it metal roof(for example, from a metal profile), because it will heat up in hot weather, which can lead to heat stroke in animals.

Standard design parameters

First of all, you need to decide on the size of the rabbit cage according to the drawings. Design drawings can be found on the Internet or made yourself. 2-seater designs with 2 separate sections are common. There are also other types: single-section, 3-section, group for young rabbits, for the mother house, author's designs from various farmers.

Standard dimensions of the structure: height - from 40 to 50 cm, length - from 120 to 140 cm and width - from 70 to 80 cm.

For young individuals, a length of about 90 cm is enough, and other parameters are similar to the previous design. For one adult rabbit allocate from 0.7 square meters. m of area, and for young individuals - 0.2 sq. m.

Types of do-it-yourself houses

The types of cages for rabbits are quite varied:

• for adults;
• for young animals;
• for a rabbit with babies;
• for giants;
• solid wire;
• from farmer Zolotukhin;
• from farmer Tsvetkov;
• Rabbitax.

Rabbits with their offspring are kept together, and separate housing is built for older individuals.

For adults

For medium-sized adults, housing can be built about 70 cm wide, 50 to 70 cm high and 140 cm long using a block structure. Each block is divided by a grid into 2 sections. The partition is removed during the mating period, which allows 2 sections to be combined into 1.

It’s not that difficult to build a standard 2-story house for adult rabbits. The main thing is to draw up the drawings correctly. You can build a two-tier or three-tier cage. It will be more difficult, but it will allow save space in the territory.

Each cell must have separate place for sleeping, walking and eating the animal. The cage is divided by a plywood partition. The sleeping compartment should have a solid wooden door, and the place for walking and eating should have a mesh door. The resting place should be small. Ideal sizes It is considered 30 by 60 by 50 cm.

Separate for young animals

Rabbits that have been weaned from their mother are kept in groups. The cell is made according to minimum sizes: the total area of ​​the structure is 300 by 100 cm, the ceiling height is 50-60 cm. It is better to make the floor from thin wooden slats, and also cover them with a metal mesh (thickness 1.5 mm, cell diameter 15 by 40 mm). You can make the entire floor mesh, but additionally arrange warm separate room, which in winter is insulated with straw and hay.

There are farmers who do not make a separate house for the young animals, but simply house them in cages intended for adults. But at the same time, you need to calculate how many animals can be placed in one cage in order to provide them comfortable accommodation.

For a female rabbit with offspring

IN open space, fenced only with a net, the female will be worried and nervous. And this will have a bad effect on the health of the offspring. In a house for a female rabbit with her offspring prerequisite is the presence of a closed and warm place for the nest, space for walking with a front mesh wall.

Let's consider the simplest and most functional version of a house for a female rabbit with offspring.

The frame is made from the bars. The back wall and two side walls are made of plywood. The cage is divided into 2 sections: for walking (large) and for nesting (small). Separate doors are made for each section (from mesh and solid wood). The walls, ceiling and floor should be made according to the sandwich principle (double). Straw or foam is laid between them. The roof is covered with slate.

For giant individuals

Designs for these individuals must be much larger than usual. Adult rabbits can grow up to 60 cm in length and reach 7.5 kg.

Minimum house sizes for one individual:

• height from 55 cm;
• width - 75 cm;
• length - 0.9−1.5 m.

If possible, it is better to increase housing parameters.

They build for young individuals group cage, the height of which is 40−50 cm, and the area is about 1.2 square meters. m. They reinforce the floor quite well (they are made of thicker galvanized mesh), since the weight of the animal is rather large. To prevent the floor of the house from sagging, they make sheathing from timber at a distance of three to four centimeters from each other.

Some rabbit breeders put a solid wooden floor in their cages, and plastic trays are installed underneath it. It is necessary to clean such a cage at least twice a day.

All-wire housing

This cell is the most in a budget way making housing for rabbits. It can be installed outdoors and indoors. Such cages are durable and lightweight, take up little space, and are easy to clean and maintain. To make such housing, you will need 2 types of mesh: a large one for the ceiling and walls (2.5 by 5 cm in diameter), and a smaller one for the floor (1.5 by 5 cm in diameter). The frame of the house is made of timber (legs length 50-70 cm). In winter, the cage is placed in a warm barn, and in summer - outside.

From farmer Zolotukhin

Rabbit breeder Zolotukhin has developed a simple, original and inexpensive design for rabbits. In such houses there is no need to clean every day; animals feel comfortable in them and are less susceptible to disease.

Zolotukhin's cell is a 3-story building, with a sloping plywood or slate floor. The mesh on the floor is laid only a short distance from the back wall and without a tray. The next tier is shifted compared to the first by the width of the grid. The third one is located in the same way. The front wall is common to all floors forming a slope. The compartments are equipped with tilting feeders.

For construction you will need: metal mesh, wood, tin, straight sheet slate or plywood, polycarbonate. A wooden frame, doors and partitions are made in advance. The mesh is used to make the cage door and the back of the floor, which is made of plywood or slate, and the back wall is made of polycarbonate. The protruding parts inside the cage are covered with tin.

• height is 150 cm;
• depth 70−80 cm;
• width 200 cm;
• the slope of the floor is 6−8 cm;
• door 40 by 40 cm;
• the mesh size in front of the back wall is from 15 to 20 cm.

The floors are divided into 2 sections by a partition, and a place is left between them for a hay barn.

From rabbit breeder Tsvetkov

Farmer Tsvetkov presented the idea of ​​a 2-story mini-farm for rabbits. It consists of 4 separate sections. Features of these cages: 2 gravity feeders, 2 hanging queen cells, unusual ventilation and manure removal systems.

The frame is made of coniferous timber and painted white. The sennik is made of moisture-resistant plywood, 8 mm thick. The inside is lined with metal mesh, and it also serves as a door in each section.

Wooden parts need to be sheathed sheet metal, cover the cone for collecting manure with slate mastic. Ruberoid or slate is suitable for the roof. The water in the drinking bowls will be heated by a boiler.

Rabbitax Dormitory

Such cells can be of various modifications and designs. The simplest of them are 2-section. There are ecological models that are based on the principle of changing air flows.

There are real farms for Rabbits rabbits, where more than 25 animals live and breed together. Many types of such cells are sold. But you can also build them yourself. The basis is the drawings of the rabbit breeder Mikhailov.

Sometimes a drywall profile is used to build cages. This profile is used to either make a frame or use it as a feeder.

To summarize, we can say that it is not necessary to spend a lot of money on building a house for rabbits. After all, the construction is not very complicated. Every craftsman can create convenient conditions for living animals.

Attention, TODAY only!

Rabbits are wonderful pets. However, before you bring your rabbit home, you will need to provide him with a cozy hutch that will meet his unique needs. Learn how to prepare a cage so that it becomes a comfortable and safe home for your pet. In addition, you should remember that the cage should have enough space for the rabbit to stretch, play and lie down for a night's sleep.

Steps

Part 1

Choose a rabbit cage. Cells classic type are better suited for temporary housing of rabbits, as they do not give the rabbits the opportunity to hide. A rabbit exposed to view from all sides will become stressed very quickly. However, in this case, you can always provide the rabbit with a house or a hiding box so that he can retire if necessary.

• While solid-sided rabbit hutches may be preferable, they are heavy and bulky and therefore not suitable for use within the walls of a home.
• Traditional rabbit hutches are made of wood and have a door made of fine birdcage mesh so the rabbit can peer out. Wood remains an excellent choice to this day, as it has good thermal insulation properties, protecting the rabbit from wind, rain, snow and cold in the winter, as well as providing the animal with shade in the hot summer.
• A classic metal cage is good for temporary housing of a rabbit, for example, if the rabbit spends most of its time free in the hall, but you cannot rule out the possibility that it will chew on wires. When placing your rabbit in such a cage, be sure to provide him with shelter or a box in which he can hide if he wants to feel safe or just sleep.

1. Choose the right size cage for your rabbit. Rabbits vary greatly in size from miniature lop rabbits weighing 1.3 kg to huge Flemish giant rabbits weighing up to 10 kg. The cage floor area and height will depend on the breed of rabbit you choose. When purchasing a cage, always consider the adult weight and size of the rabbit.

   Make sure the cage has a solid floor. Many rabbits suffer from pododermatitis, which develops as painful sores from bedsores on the hind legs resulting from sitting on hard floors or wet bedding. Cage floors in the form of a metal mesh are completely unacceptable and inconvenient for rabbits.

   Choose a cage with metal mesh walls. A cage with lattice walls and a roof will provide the rabbit with good ventilation In addition, it will be quite easy to clean. However, make sure that the bottom of the cage is not made of metal mesh either. Your rabbit should not be forced to sit or stand on metal grill a long period of time.

   Make sure the bottom of the cage is protected from urine leakage. The bottom or tray must be high and solid. This is because rabbits may squirt urine when they urinate.

   • In addition, this way less straw will spill out of the cage.
   • If the cage does not have high protective sides and you want to construct them yourself, use a material such as cardboard that will not harm the rabbit even if it chews on it. You will need to refresh it often, but your rabbit won't get sick from the cardboard.

2. Choose a litter box for your rabbit. Buying a litter box and training your rabbit to use it is very important when keeping this animal at home. The corner litter box fits very conveniently into the corner of a rabbit's cage or pen.

   • Your rabbit may not start using the litter box right away, so be patient. You will need to train your rabbit to use the litter box. Eventually, he will always go to the toilet in it.

3. Buy food bowls and a water bottle. Use heavy, flat-bottomed bowls that are difficult to tip over. Provide a manger for hay, but keep it as low as possible as rabbits do not like to lift their heads up.

   Part 2

   Choosing a location for the cage

   1. Place the cage in a well-ventilated area that is neither too hot nor too cold. Don't place it in a dusty or dirty room, such as an attic or basement, as dust can damage your rabbit's delicate lungs.

      • The rabbit also needs natural light. Make sure that sunlight does not flood it, but falls on the rabbit in an absent-minded manner.
      • Be aware that rabbits don't like loud noises or sudden movements, so don't place him near a tumble dryer or similar noisy areas to avoid putting him under unnecessary stress.
      • A spare bedroom is a good place for your rabbit, as long as you remember to communicate with him regularly.

   2. Make sure your rabbit will be protected from predators. Also make sure that other pets such as cats and dogs do not disturb the rabbit. Rabbits are naturally prey to predators and find the close presence of predators very disturbing.

      • If you have dogs, try to raise the crate off the floor. Rabbits can become very frightened if dogs sniff them at floor level.

   3. Choose a room where you can let your rabbit run around. Rabbits should not be kept locked in a cage all the time. You need to let your rabbit out of the cage so that he gets exercise. The easiest way is to place your rabbit's cage in a room where you don't mind letting him run around and explore.

      • Make sure that there are no wires lying around in this room, no sharp objects, small toys or other objects that could harm the rabbit.

   Part 3

   Arrangement of the cage

   1. Line the cage with bedding. A rabbit needs a thick layer of bedding to protect its paws from bedsores. How larger rabbit, the thicker the bedding layer for it should be.

      • Typically straw, sawdust or hay is used as bedding. It is best to take straw, as it is elastic and soft, and in winter it retains heat. Straw can also be safely chewed on by a rabbit.
      • A regular-sized rabbit requires a layer of bedding 12.5–15 cm thick, and larger rabbits require an even thicker layer.
      • Even if your rabbit is litter box trained, we do not recommend carpeting the cage as it can cause intestinal blockages if the rabbit decides to chew on it.
      • Spot-clean the cage daily by scooping up urine-stained bedding and feces and then adding fresh straw. Ideally, the cage should be completely cleaned once a week.
      • Rabbits can chew blankets or fabric, so it is best to place a particularly large amount of tightly packed straw inside a box or hutch for shelter.

   2. Line the litter box with a layer of newspaper, add non-toxic litter, and top it with hay. Change the hay daily and clean the litter tray weekly.

      • Do not use cat litter on your rabbit, especially clumping litter, as it can be fatal to your rabbit.

   3. Provide your rabbit with food. Grass is an ideal food for rabbits, and hay is an excellent substitute. If possible, feed your rabbit exclusively hay to keep its teeth in tip-top condition and prevent your rabbit from becoming overweight.

   4. Provide your rabbit with water. A rabbit can easily knock over or stain a water bowl with excrement, so it is preferable to use water bowls. Change the water daily to keep it fresh. Also, wash your water bottle daily and never use one that is overgrown with green algae.

      • If you have more than one rabbit, hang water bottles at two opposite ends of the cage.