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Houses made of profiled timber are modern look on wooden architecture. The technology is appreciated abroad, where it has been used for many years. Now it has gained wide popularity in Russia, which is facilitated by ease of construction and comfortable living. Such structures can be erected by ordering turnkey construction from a specialized company or by doing the installation yourself.

The secret of success lies in the specific properties of this building material. It is being manufactured from natural wood and is dried under industrial conditions. The most common material is pine, spruce, larch, but you can find bars from hardwood – oak, aspen.

Its main difference from ordinary timber is presence of a profile on both sides (along the entire length), providing a locking connection using the tongue-and-groove system. Installation of structures from it is carried out according to the principle children's construction set, joining elements together.

Basic advantages of the indicated houses:

• environmental cleanliness;
• simplicity and speed of installation work;
• high thermal insulation parameters of the material;
• low shrinkage when using well-dried timber;
• aesthetic appearance, related to nature;
• reasonable cost of materials and all construction;
• maintainability;
• possibility of using all kinds of finishing and facing materials.

Flaws houses made of profiled timber are determined by the properties of wood:

• low moisture resistance;
• tendency to rot;
• cracking under certain loads and freezing of moisture;
• shrinkage phenomena during operation.

Durability of paving walls wooden house completely dependent on protective measures - impregnation with anti-rot composition and reliable waterproofing.

Important. We should not forget that wood is a highly flammable material, which requires appropriate treatment with non-flammable agents.

Design stage of construction

Any capital construction begins with several important activities.

Design

Documentation

Capital construction can only be carried out if the necessary technical documentation:

1. Foundation plan based on calculations and soil characteristics (level groundwater and freezing), with specifications for the need for materials.
2. Plan of the entire structure based on the previous document.
3. A detailed plan with a floor breakdown, placement of rooms and capital elements (stove, fireplace, staircase, etc.).
4. Detailed plan of paving walls with planking and cutting in the main areas.
5. Specification of individual parts of the structure.
6. Roof drawing with details rafter system and roofing.
7. General view of the house from the outside.

Carrying out calculations of timber for a house

Calculate required section timber taking into account loads is very difficult, and therefore when choosing the size of timber for walls, use the following standards:

• utility buildings and small dachas– 10x10 cm;
• standard houses for permanent residence, baths – 15x15 cm;
• large houses and elite class cottages – 20x20 cm.

The amount of lumber is calculated based detailed plan walls with planking. The required volume of timber (V) for wall masonry is determined as the product P*H*b,

where P is the complete perimeter of the house with all protrusions (m), H is the height of the walls (m), b is the width of the beam (m), minus window and door openings.

The number of beams is determined as V/(b*h*l), where b is the width, h is the height, l is the length of the beam (m). The specific length of the beams is determined by the planking of the walls.

Foundation

The laying and construction of the foundation is carried out in the following order:

1. Type selection foundation - strip or columnar (pile). For residential buildings, the strip version is most suitable. When constructing small structures, preference is given to columnar support.
2. Size calculation foundation. At the design stage, the depth of the foundation and the width of the tape (area and number of pillars, piles) are determined. For houses made of timber, a shallow foundation is built with a depth equal to the level of soil freezing (most often 60-80 cm).
3. Digging a trench or hole for pillars. Backfilling the cushion with sand and crushed stone.
4. Wooden installation formwork.
5. Laying of reinforcing elements from steel rods with a diameter of at least 12 mm. Linking them horizontally and vertically.
6. Fill with thorough compaction using a vibrator.
7. Overlay waterproofing and thermal insulation. A layer of roofing felt is laid on top of the pillow. The side surface of the foundation is covered with bitumen and then with roofing felt. Thermal insulation of the side walls is made of, or.

The construction of walls begins after concrete curing, i.e. no earlier than 7-10 days after pouring.

Home construction

The construction of walls begins with the installation of a box, as it is commonly called the first crown of the log house. It uses timber with a size exceeding the size of the main elements. Typical projects involve the use of timber 15x20 cm. This detail of the house should be especially carefully be treated with an antiseptic. In addition, it is recommended to use larch timber.

Work order:

1. Laying roofing felt waterproofing over concrete.
2. Fastening metal pins in concrete to fix the lower crown of the frame.
3. Installation of larch backing board around the entire perimeter of the house.
4. Installing the prepared beams on the pins, forming the frame of the box.
5. Checking horizontality using a building level.

Subfloor installation

The subfloor or floor covering is made of wooden logs, which are fixed to the box at home. A groove is cut out on the lower beams to match the size of the lag. Soundproofing is placed on the bottom of the groove, rubber gasket. The log beams are laid parallel in increments of 40-60 cm. If the ceiling is high above the ground, then support frames are installed.

Between the joists it is laid waterproofing from roofing felt or polyethylene film and laid insulation.

Most commonly used expanded clay, ash or sawdust . You can use mineral wool or polystyrene foam.

A subfloor made of boards at least 25 mm thick is laid on top of the logs.

The first board is fixed at a distance of 1-1.5 cm from the wall, forming a damper gap.

Wall assembly

Walls are built by alternate laying of crowns along the entire perimeter of the house with the formation of openings and the allocation of internal, intermediate walls. There are several construction nuances that will be highlighted below.

Timber splicing

You can reliably connect the bars end-to-end in the following ways:

1. Straight rim lock. It is formed according to the “half-beam” principle, but in addition a tongue-and-groove connection is created. The total length of the joint is (3-4)h.
2. Oblique rim lock. The beams are joined along an inclined plane (at an angle of no more than 40 degrees), on which the step is made. The length of the connecting section is (3.5-5)h.
3. « Dovetail» . A tongue and groove of a corresponding trapezoidal shape are cut out at the ends of the beams.
4. Tongue connection. At the ends of the beams, grooves are cut in the center, into which, after joining, a wooden tongue is driven.

To strengthen the connection, joining surfaces covered with glue. Additionally, it can be reinforced with screws or nails.

Gusset

The formation of the corner of the house is considered important operation, responsible for the reliability and appearance of the entire log house. That is why this element is normalized GOST 30974-2002.

The following methods are provided:

1. Butt (butt). This is the simplest, but least reliable connection. The end of the beam simply rests on side edge another timber. The next crown closes the connection.
2. “Half a tree” or “half a beam”. Exactly half of the timber is cut out at the ends of the joining elements, and then these sections are joined.
3. "Warm Corner". The previous options create through channels where cold can penetrate. Elimination of “cold bridges” can be ensured by forming a connection using the “ root thorn», « dovetail», angle with remainder. In the first case, the tenon and groove principle with a rectangular profile is used. Dovetail has the same principle, but the connection elements are trapezoidal in shape. When creating a corner with a remainder, one beam is cut into another, and their ends are brought beyond the surface of the wall.

Formation of the wall

The insertion of the wall into the main crowns of the log house can be achieved in the following ways:

1. Root Thorn T-shape.
2. « Dovetail».
3. « Into the bowl" This joint profile is cut in production conditions. At the time of buying complete set bars for standard house connection is made according to the instructions.

Fastening timber with dowels

The crowns of the log house are fastened during installation using wooden dowels. They represent wooden rod with a diameter of 16 - 22 mm and a length of 1.5 - 2 times the height of the beam.

The diameter of this element should exceed the size of the hole in the bars by 3-5 mm. The installation of dowels is carried out taking into account the following nuances:

• A hole is drilled in three beams. It should start in the middle of the lowest beam, pass through the middle crown and end in the middle of the third beam.
• The dowel is driven into this hole with a mallet, connecting the 3 crowns together.
• The first hole is drilled at a distance of at least 20-25 cm from the end of the beam. If it is located closer, there is a risk of wood splitting when driving in the dowel.
• The dowel installation pitch is 1.4-2.2 m.
• The dowel should not reach the bottom of the hole to ensure shrinkage.

Insulation options during installation

The seam between the crowns is the area of ​​probable " bridge of cold", which requires insulation. It is believed that you can do without it only if using a “German comb” as a lock profile. But even in this case, it is better to caulk the seam externally.

In other options, heat-insulating fibrous material is placed in the groove along the entire length of the beams - jute, linen. The thickness of such a gasket should not exceed 5-8 mm.

Roof

The roof of a house made of timber is made on the basis of a rafter system and, as a rule, has a gable design.

The following stages are distinguished:

1. Installation of beams ceiling . For this, a 15x10 cm beam is used. The beams cut into the upper crown of the log house. The insertion points are reinforced with dowels or anchors. The beam installation step is 60-80 cm.
2. Installation rafter legs . For rafters, timber 10x10, 15x5 or 10x15 cm is used. The angle of the roof slope depends on the intensity of precipitation and the type of attic. At the top, the rafter triangles are connected by a ridge. Braces, crossbars, and racks are used as reinforcing elements. The installation pitch of the rafters is 80-100 cm.
3. Lathing. It is made from unedged boards, which is fixed to the rafters.
4. Roof waterproofing. Roofing felt is laid on top of the sheathing. If a warm attic is being created, then insulation is applied under the waterproofing (, mineral wool).
5. Roofing installation.
6. wooden flooring, draft ceiling . Laying thermal insulation and vapor barrier. Subfloor, attic flooring.

Installation of individual elements

When building a house, it is impossible to do without some specific elements. They create certain nuances in the work process:

1. Window and door openings. These openings are formed by installing the appropriate wooden box. A compensation gap is left between it and the wall, which eliminates the risk of deformation of windows and doors during the natural shrinkage of the structure. This space should not be filled polyurethane foam. Suitable material considered to be fibrous insulation in a vapor-proof wrapper.
2. Vertical elements. These include columns and various support posts or pillars. To avoid destruction during shrinkage, they are placed on an adjustable base (jack).
3. Roofing parts. To compensate for the shrinkage load in the rafters, a sliding element is provided at the point of their attachment to the frame. In some cases, the possibility of slipping is also provided in the area of ​​the ridge.
4. Ladder. It is installed to enter the attic (attic) or two-story house. It is recommended to carry out final installation after complete shrinkage wooden structure(in 10-12 months). Load-bearing element The staircase is a bowstring or stringer, which is fixed between the floor and ceiling (interfloor) ceiling.

Attention. It is not recommended to attach staircase elements to the frame, so as not to create mutual loads during shrinkage.

Interior decoration of the house

As interior decoration timber walls are often used, mounted on a lathing with insulation or directly on the surface of a log house, as well as a plaster coating. Both options can be done only after complete shrinkage of the wood.

It is especially pointless to plaster or apply plaster ahead of time. The coating will simply crack within a year, and the tiles will fly off.

External wall treatment

External processing of the timber frame is also necessary. For protection, such impregnating and covering agents:

• Compositions for providing biological and fire safety. Recommended - OZONE-007, Senezh, Phenilax, Neomid.
• Antiseptics – Senezh, Aquatex primer, Nortex concentrate.
• Impregnating compositions with a decorative effect - Senezh-Aquadecor, Krasula.

How is the price of a home determined?

The price of a finished modest standard house made of profiled timber for shrinkage ranges from 400 thousand rubles and higher.

Houses made of profiled timber are becoming increasingly common in different regions of the country. The simplicity and speed of construction, as well as other advantages, ensure their popularity among people of different incomes.

On your own, without any help professional builders, it is not possible to build a residential building from brick or concrete. But with my own hands fold timber house Anyone with minimal carpentry skills can do it.

As soon as construction material selected, and the foundation is built, you should proceed directly to laying the timber.

Crown assembly technology: types of corner joints

Exist various ways laying timber in a log house. Unlike a log house, when the box is assembled separately and then installed on the foundation. A house from it is built directly on a concrete foundation.

The main thing is to fold the first crown correctly, this determines how straight the walls will be. The technology is based on the corner connection.

Half-tree assembly

Regardless of what type of further connection is chosen, the first and last crowns are laid “half a tree”. In this case, one beam has had its top part, and the second one has the lower one.

A hole for the dowel is first made in the timber. A dowel is a wooden pin used to connect beams; it is installed inside during assembly, increasing the strength of the building. It connects several pieces at once in the corners. Then a seal is placed on it, and the subsequent crown is installed.

Assembly “tied with a root tenon”

The timber is processed in such a way that a tenon is machined on one side and a groove on the other. How to lay timber when building a house using this joining method?

A tenon of appropriate size is selected for the groove. The parts must fit tightly together without gaps. This is the warmest "no residue" corner joint method.

Assembly of load-bearing walls “on dowels”

The first crown is always laid “half a tree”, the subsequent ones in any chosen way. To connect the structures, grooves are cut into them, into which dowels are inserted.

These are wooden or metal bars that cut into the workpieces being joined to half their thickness. This type requires great precision when performing.

Types of laying load-bearing walls

Laying timber is carried out in two ways:

• "with the remainder";
• "without a trace."

How much it costs to lay timber depends on the amount of waste generated. The more the workpiece is cut, the more waste there is.

In the first case, the workpieces are processed in such a way that grooves are cut out in the upper and lower parts. The depth should be ¼ of the thickness.

A simpler option is to make the groove on only one side. The most complex but reliable is four-sided processing.

Advantages of styling “with remainder”:

• warmer corner;
• ease of construction;
• sustainability.

Flaws:

• the material is not used rationally, a lot of waste remains;
• The area of ​​the room decreases, and the cost of laying timber increases.

Houses with convex corner joints look very beautiful and antique, but covering them with siding or insulation is almost impossible.

“without remainder” implies that the walls have no protruding parts. All parts are in the same plane, facilitating further finishing of the house.

Advantages:

• modern type of construction;
• a warm corner is ensured through a reliable connection using additional materials;
• increases inner space Houses.

Minuses:

• If you don’t follow the technology, the house will be drafty.

When installation is done independently, you need to choose the simplest, but at the same time reliable option.

Installation of profiled timber 150*150 mm

To help you decide on the amount of timber for construction, we suggest using a simple calculator:

Wall length

m

Wall width

m

Wall height

m

Section of timber

150x150 mm.

180x180 mm.

200x200 mm.

5 m. 6 m. 7 m. 8 m. 9 m. 10 m. 11 m. 12 m.

Advantages:

• ru
• When giving preference to building your own house from profiled timber, you need to have a clear understanding of its advantages and disadvantages compared to logs.
• completely ready for installation - all the necessary grooves and profiles have already been made in production;
• the cost of laying timber is several times lower than that of logs;
• if the wood has gone through the stage of artificial drying, then it has uniform moisture content and shrinks no more than 2%;
• the smooth profile eliminates the formation of cracks in the masonry;

Flaws:

• the “groove-tenon” system prevents blowing;
• The house is being built in a short time.
• it is impossible to redevelop the house after construction;

Dirt stains form on the surface and are difficult to get rid of;

• for timber with a cross section of 150*150 mm, additional insulation is needed to make the house suitable for permanent residence.
• Step-by-step instructions for installing crowns made of profiled timber include: laying the first crown;.

installation

load-bearing walls

The procedure for laying profiled timber “without residue”

1. Before you begin construction, you need to learn how to properly lay timber when building a house. Stages:

Installation of the first crown
. It is laid on a foundation covered with waterproofing using the “half-tree” method - this is the most reliable option and provides stability. A layer of insulation is rolled out onto it, which is used as jute or tow.

1. Note! If tow serves as insulation, then it is evenly distributed over the surface of the profiled timber with an outlet of at least 10 cm for subsequent caulking.

The next row is laid out with the previously selected corner connection

The hole should be exactly the same diameter as the dowel. The optimal diameter is 3-4 cm, and the distance between the holes is 120-150 cm. 2-3 rows are combined at the same time.

Advice!
The last two crowns are not fastened together. This is due to the fact that they are removed to install ceiling beams.

1. Laying profiled timber with your own hands involves the fact that everyone wooden element you need to treat it yourself with a fireproofing agent. For this they use wide brush or spray bottle.
2. Particular attention is paid to corners. The tongue-and-groove connection technology would be more appropriate. It completely protects against blowing. Additionally, insulation is laid after each crown, especially for 150*150 mm timber.

1. Every 4-5 crowns the corner connection “in half a tree” is repeated - this is necessary for the stability of the log house. But the frame cannot be laid completely like this - this is a ventilated connection.

Laying timber around door and window openings

Installation is expected in any home door frame and device window openings. The technology for laying profiled timber involves two options: installation during the installation of crowns and after completion of construction.

Option one:

More labor intensive. At the location of the door or window opening, a spike is made on both sides of the beams. A deck with a groove made on one side is placed perpendicular to them.

Jute is laid around the perimeter. The counting of crowns begins from the second. The first is that the mortgage is not taken into account anywhere.

Second option:

When the installation of door and window frames is carried out after the construction of the house.

A small gap is left between the beams where the opening is supposed to be. That is, long and short blanks are stacked alternately.

The countdown starts from the second crown. The width of the opening should be 5 cm larger than expected. This is needed for a door or window frame.

Features of laying profiled timber

The technology for laying 150x150 timber assumes that the workpiece is completely ready for use. Its side can be flat or convex - you can choose any one, both for the outside and for the inside. Each subsequent crown is laid on a layer of jute insulation, tightly interlocking with each other using a tongue-and-groove system.

Manufacturers usually produce blanks 6 m long, but the wall can be much longer. In order to lay the beams efficiently, it is necessary to splice them together. It is important to prevent cold penetration.

To do this you should do:

1. at the junction of two wooden blanks a cut is made along the beam;
2. the clutch is carried out “in a dressing” - on one side there is a long tenon, and on the other there is a groove, with jute between them;
3. hammering the dowels at the joints provides additional strength;
4. in each subsequent row, the joint location shifts slightly - this is necessary for the reliability of the structure.

The price of construction in this case increases due to large quantity waste after cutting the workpieces. If the house design assumes a size of 6x6 m, then the cost will be significantly lower.

Conclusion

You can build a house from timber yourself; for this you need to master the laying technology. It is quite simple, with minimal carpentry skills and strict adherence to the work order, you will soon become the owner of a wooden country house.

The video in this article will give you the opportunity to clearly see the above material, watch.

One of the most popular services on construction market today is the assembly of a log house. This technology is used to build not only private houses, but also bathhouses, as well as utility buildings. They turn out warm and attractive to look at.

If you want to make the walls warmer, you can install a ventilated facade. But some people prefer to leave the walls in their original form. So they look very beautiful and correspond to old Russian traditions. If you have the appropriate skills, you can assemble a house from profiled timber with your own hands. However, first you need to familiarize yourself with the technology.

Main stages

When assembling a house, you need to remember about its shrinkage. This rule is especially relevant if the construction is carried out using the technology of installing links natural humidity. Shrinkage will be approximately 15 cm if a material of natural moisture is used. The dried log shrinks by about 9 cm.

The assembly is divided into several stages. At first, a project is drawn up, then the foundation is built. The main stage is the assembly of the log house. Final works manipulations on the construction of the roof become. After shrinkage, external and interior work.

The most important first crown

The technology for assembling a house from profiled timber involves paying special attention to the first crown. It represents one of the vulnerabilities. This node will form the outline of the house. It is located closer to the surface of the earth and is in contact with the foundation, which draws water from the ground into the water.

The first crown is shielded; this work involves separating it from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. It is usually roofing material laid on a layer of bitumen mastic. There is a 100 mm lining beam on top, this is exactly its thickness. As for the width, it should not be less than the corresponding value of the profiled beam. The latter will become an intermediate link between the foundation and wall material.

The backing beam must be made of larch, which is characterized by high resistance to rotting. In this case, the material must be treated with an antiseptic. When the kit for assembling a house from profiled timber is delivered to the building site, you can begin work. After erecting the foundation and laying the first crown, you can begin installing the lower crown, which is a beam with one profiled side. The horizontal plane must be coated with an antiseptic, and after the mixture has dried, a layer of jute sealant is placed on top. Its thickness should be 5 mm.

The floor beams must be embedded into the first crown. But it is better to lay them in such a way that they rest on the foundation grillage. If the lower crown rots, there will be fewer problems with replacing it. It is better to make the first two crowns from larch.

The need to process timber

Work on assembling houses from profiled timber is necessarily accompanied by treating the material with antiseptics. At the same time, you must take into account that after construction you will only have the opportunity to process accessible sections of the walls.

Before laying the profiled timber, it is necessary to protect the remaining surfaces. This must be done before assembling the house. Antiseptic compounds can be “Senezh” and “Tikurilla”.

Carrying out insulation

After studying the instructions for assembling a house from profiled timber, you will learn that compaction is a mandatory step. Ideally, it is better to use jute, which is laid in corner joints - the most vulnerable places. Some types of Finnish-style profiles involve laying jute tape along the beam, in its central part. The main function of the jute seal is to reduce the air flow through the walls. To achieve the result, a layer of 5 mm will be enough.

Using dowels as a connection

Self-assembly houses made of profiled timber are accompanied by the use of dowels. They are spikes and pins for fastening structural elements. The products are oblong in shape and have a round or square cross-section. The basis may be:

• plastic;
• metal;
• wood.

If the walls are assembled from profiled timber, then they are better suited than others wooden dowels. This fastening is used when the moisture content of the timber is more than 20%. This is done so that when the material dries, it does not deform and cracks do not form between the rims. The dowel will work on bending and will not allow the beam to bend.

If you decide to use dowels as fasteners, you can use some tips that will simplify the work. No more than two beams should be connected to each other. The pins are arranged in a checkerboard pattern. The step between them should not be more than 1,500 mm.

The dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber. Holes for installing fasteners are drilled vertically at 1.5 beams. The diameter of the holes can be 1 mm larger than the diameter of the fasteners. It is better if this parameter is the same. The dowel is hammered in with a mallet and sunk into the timber. When assembling a house from profiled timber, you must choose dowels whose length will be 30 mm less than the length of the hole. This requirement is due to shrinkage compensation.

Assembly nuances: instructions for work

By purchasing ready set to assemble a house, you can carry out its installation yourself. Each link will be in its place, and glass slots will be made in the products. The work must be carried out according to the principle of assembling a classic log structure. Each link is marked, and during installation you must follow the diagram.

During the process, you must take into account the grooves and tenons of each piece. When laying, each edge must coincide with the profile. If the grooves and tenons are not very complex, then sealing material is laid between the links. This increases thermal insulation characteristics walls

When assembling a house from profiled timber, it is important to ensure that the links are tightly connected to each other. If this rule is not followed, the walls will rot. If there are products with tongues and grooves in the form of a comb, there is no need to lay insulation. The beams will have bowl cuts that connect the links to each other into an even masonry. If there are no bowls, you can cut them out using a mobile bowl cutter.

Completion of construction

After shrinkage, you can begin roughing and finishing, as well as the construction of the roof. At the same stage, they install entrance doors and windows. The subfloor is being installed. If the walls have a thickness of 195 mm or more, then additional insulation and they do not need cladding. They will retain heat perfectly.

Whereas protective impregnation must be applied. This will keep the wood in excellent condition for many years. If you wish, you can purchase a composition that will perform two functions at once - protective and decorative. With this mixture you can emphasize the structure of the wood and give it a rich shade.

Features of insulation

After assembling a house from profiled timber, you can also insulate it. This process usually involves:

• tow;
• glass wool boards;
• mineral wool;
• linen jute fabric.

Glass wool is laid with foil vapor barrier layer. This will help reflect heat indoors. The presence of vapor insulation will reduce the evaporation of moisture, which steals heat.

It is better not to use polystyrene foam as thermal insulation, as it will prevent the evaporation of moisture from the wood, which will ultimately cause it to rot. For the same reasons, it is not worth insulating walls with roofing felt, as well as with glassine, as well as plastic film. It is better to use a vapor-permeable membrane material.

Finally

Assembling a house from profiled timber can be a fairly simple task if you order a ready-made kit. In it, all elements of the system are numbered. You will have to install the walls, guided by the Lego principle. If you want to achieve additional thermal insulation, the surface of the walls from the inside can also be finished. For this, plasterboard, hardboard or lining is usually used.

When installing a roof for such housing, it is better to use corrugated sheeting or ondulin. Metal tiles are excellent. Insulation in this case begins from the attic floor. Then the craftsmen move on to the roofing.

Profiled timber from the manufacturer, mainly made to order. At the factory, each crown is signed, so when unloading material, it is desirable that beam number one is at the top. Wood treatment with antiseptics and other compounds is carried out before the house is assembled, since then access to separate parts will be impossible.

It is not difficult to assemble a house from profiled timber with your own hands, since thanks to the grooves, each beam falls into place.

The first row of beams, which forms the outline of the house, is the most vulnerable, it is closer than the other crowns to the ground, and is constantly in contact with the foundation, which constantly absorbs moisture. In connection with these circumstances, the first crown is covered with waterproofing. For the first row of laid beams use bottom trim, these are beams that are laid in a certain layer directly on the foundation. The binding is made from unplaned timber in two layers. Further, each subsequent row of beams is secured to each other using dowels; they are secured through two or three rows after one. To install dowels, holes 3-4 cm in size are drilled, where dowels are installed. Between the rows of profiled timber, it is imperative to lay a sealant. Subsequent installation is carried out according to the instructions that are included in the kit of profiled timber. The second crown is laid on top of the first one so that the groove fits into the tenon, like a system for fitting timber onto timber. Internal walls made from the same timber as the outer walls. When laying beams, each link must match, since if one beam is poorly connected to another, the walls may rot in the future. And if the groove and tenon are comb-shaped, then no additional insulation is required.

If the size of the house exceeds 6*6 meters, then a partition must be installed on the first floor, which will provide support for the floor on the second floor. Such partitions must be taken into account in projects made from profiled timber, and be included in the main walls of the house. Before starting construction, it is imperative that, in addition to antiseptics, the timbers are treated with a fire-resistant mixture to increase the fire safety of the future home. Most often, wood fire resistance treatment is done with a fire retardant, which can be applied either with a spray bottle or with a regular paint brush.

Profiled timber has deservedly become one of the most popular materials for the construction of low-rise buildings. wooden buildings. But this does not eliminate the shortcomings inherent in all other solid wood building materials. That is why, when using profiled timber, you must strictly follow the technology for laying it. In this article we will try to reveal as fully as possible the issues that may arise when assembling a house from profiled timber.

Sequence of laying profiled timber

We will assume that the foundation for the house has already been built and has managed to gain the necessary strength. Considering the relatively small mass of profiled timber and a house built from it, it is advisable to choose economical options base: shallow belt or bored foundation.

The first crown is the most important

One of the most vulnerable places in a wooden house is the first, lowest crown (one row of beams forming the outline of the house). The reason is simple: it is closest to the surface of the earth. Moreover, it is in direct contact with the foundation, which “pulls” water well. Therefore, first you need to shield the first crown from the foundation with a layer of waterproofing. This can be a layer applied to the base bitumen mastic, two layers of roofing material, etc. A backing beam with a thickness of 100 mm and a width not less than the width of the profiled beam is laid on the waterproofing - another intermediate link between the wall material and the foundation. It is best if the lining beam is made of larch, which has good resistance to rotting. But even in this case, the material will have to be treated with antiseptic drugs. The construction of a house made of profiled timber has begun.

Next, the lower crown is laid, which is a beam with one (upper) profiled side. All horizontal planes They are treated with an antiseptic; after the composition has dried, a layer of jute sealant (5 mm thick) is placed on them. Floor beams can crash into the first crown, but it is better if they rest on the foundation grillage: if the lower crown rots, it will less problems with its replacement. It is preferable if the first 2 crowns are made of larch.

About treating timber with antiseptics

Considering that after assembling the house you will have the opportunity to process only accessible parts of the walls, protection of all other surfaces must be carried out before laying the profiled timber. It is advisable to do this before actually assembling the house. Tikkuril, Senezh, etc. can be used as antiseptic compounds.

Sealing for insulation

Ideally, the use of jute is only necessary for corner connections profiled timber - the most vulnerable places in the house. But some types of profiles, for example, Finnish, initially involve laying a jute tape along the entire beam in its middle part. The main purpose of the jute seal is to reduce the ventilation of the walls. Usually a layer of 5 mm is sufficient.

Connection using dowels

Dowel is a pin or tenon used for fastening elements of a wooden structure. It is an oblong fastener with a square or round cross-section. It can be wooden (when assembling a house from profiled timber, it is better to use this kind), metal or plastic. Fastening with dowels is used in cases where the moisture content of the timber exceeds 20%. This is done so that when it dries, the beam does not twist, and cracks do not form between the crowns - the dowel works to bend and prevents the beam from bending.

• Only two beams are connected to each other - no more;
• dowels are alternated in a checkerboard pattern, the distance between them should not exceed 1500 mm (see diagram below);
• the dowels should have approximately the same moisture content as the timber;
• from the previous paragraph it is obvious that it is better if these are wooden products;
• holes for them are drilled vertically, 1.5 beams;
• The diameter of the holes can exceed the diameter of the fastener by a maximum of 1 mm. It is better if it is the same (the dowel is driven with a wooden mallet and recessed into the beam);
• the length of the dowels should be 20-30 mm less than the length of the hole (shrinkage compensation)

And remember, according to the technology of laying profiled timber, you cannot use nails!

Preparing for the shrinkage period

Door and window openings are either cut out in the walls or are provided in advance (house kit). Window blocks are installed at the required level, and the door ones are installed on the first crown. The blocks are fastened along the entire end of the opening; a gap of at least 50 mm is left above the frame, which compensates for subsequent shrinkage of the house.

If it so happens that profiled timber with natural moisture was used, then after the construction of the log house a temporary roof is erected to protect it from precipitation. The building is left alone for a period of 6 to 12 months - until the timber dries and the house shrinks. Only after this can you begin finishing work.

About shrinkage of a house made of profiled timber

On the Internet you can find information that profiled timber, for example, with natural humidity is characterized by 4, 5, 6% shrinkage. But in order to be prepared for a real change in the geometric dimensions of the timber, it is worth familiarizing yourself with GOST 6782.1-75 “Wood lumber coniferous species. The amount of shrinkage." We will leave the information presented there without comment. We only note that the amount of shrinkage directly depends on the difference between the values ​​of the initial and final moisture content of the profiled timber.

You've probably heard more than once that the best time to assemble a house from profiled timber with natural humidity is winter. And the point is not so much that winter wood is somehow special: before the summer, the log house will be able to partially dry out in more time. mild conditions than if the construction took place in the hot season. Uniform drying is the main antidote to severe deformations in the timber.

A few words about projects, etc.

If you ordered a designer house made according to a project, then the latter should have a section with design documentation, which indicates the sequence of all work on assembling a house from profiled timber. All you have to do is call a couple of friends for help and you can assemble the log house yourself. And we can only wish good luck to those guys who ordered the building materials by molding: it’s not worth saving your nerves like that!