Help on Tele2, tariffs, questions

When working with wood, in addition to simple sawing and trimming operations, there are quite complex finishing procedures. These include grinding.

Before grinding, planing is carried out whenever possible. At this stage of processing, burrs are removed, the surface acquires smooth appearance. When planing using a thicknesser (a machine that allows you to obtain workpieces of the same thickness and width), a semi-finished product of the specified parameters is obtained.

High-quality finishing is carried out on hard wood, which is used for the manufacture of products High Quality. Birch, oak, ash, maple, walnut, apple, cherry and others have a dense structure. It can even be difficult to cut such material with a regular hacksaw. But in furniture production They are used to make a wide variety of furniture and interior items.

Even traditional pine, spruce and aspen also require high-quality finishing by grinding. For example, by leveling floor boards using manual or electric tools, they achieve a single plane. Difficult and low-productivity work, but without it it is impossible to achieve good quality.

What is grinding done?

In cutting theory, when determining a tool to perform the process itself, a cutter is considered. It has cutting edges. They introduce the processed material into the body. The sharpening angles determine the features of the cutter's penetration into the material, as well as the formation of chips.

When it comes to the grinding method of processing, here we observe the work of not one cutter, but several at once. Their number is often measured in the thousands. The more small cutters involved in the work at the same time, the higher the quality of the machined surface. The abrasive grains act as cutters - these are grains of sand with a fairly high hardness, glued to paper or fabric.

To classify grinding tools, the concept of the number of grains of 1 square centimeter was introduced. For example, the designation P36 implies that on average there are 36 grains per square cm. If the abrasive is designated P200, then, accordingly, there are on average 200 grains per square cm.

When roughing of a part is required and a fairly thick layer needs to be removed, abrasive materials with a small number of grains are used. As the quality of the processed surface improves, the size of the grains themselves decreases and their number increases.

Attention! When using abrasives with a high grain count, rapid clogging occurs. To increase the duration of use, it is recommended to regularly shake off the sandpaper. Then it will have to be replaced less often. Before starting finishing work, an audit of the abrasive material is carried out. Assess the amount of sandpaper available.

Coarse grinding is also performed using hard brushes. They are made from spring wire. Using a similar tool, brushing is performed ( artificial aging tree).

To sand logs, plastic bristles are used instead of wire. It is made from rigid fishing line with a diameter of 3.0...4.5 mm. To increase productivity, such brushes are made on disks.

Hand blocks for sanding wood

When processing any board, you can rub sandpaper over the surface. There will be some result. Only your hand will get tired quite quickly, and the abrasive will heat up and become uncomfortable to hold.

For fixation, many people use a regular block. They wrap it around a piece of sandpaper. This is enough to do the simplest work. However, real masters make more convenient devices(Fig. 1).

The grinding block is made in the following sequence.

Rice. 1 Wedge-mounted sanding block

A simpler block can be made using two self-tapping screws and two paper clothespins (Fig. 2).

Rice. 2 Sanding block with self-tapping screws and clothespins

Rice. 3 Sanding block for machining large radius concave surfaces

When working with wood, sometimes you have to process more than just planes. Often, to give an original shape, curved grooves are sawn or complex shape. In order to grind the surface in this case, the pads are made with a curved working surface (Fig. 3 and Fig. 4).

Rice. 4 Sanding block for machining concave surfaces of small radius

If there is a need to obtain a strict angle, then use a corner block (Fig. 5). There is only one work surface on it. The other surface is used to maintain the exact angle. Most often they are made for processing at a right angle (90°), but a similar grinding device can be made at any desired angle.

Rice. 5 Angle sanding block

Mechanized wood sanding

Handmade is appreciated. But when using the simplest means of mechanization, wood processing occurs faster. Most common for grinding different materials received elastic supports for an electric drill (Fig. 6) and an angle grinder (Fig. 7) with Velcro. Somewhat later, manufacturers of supports began to sell a similar universal support (Fig. 8).

Rice. 7 Elastic support with Velcro for an angle grinder (grinder)

Important! When using such a support on an angle grinder, you should not press it too hard against the surface being processed. The speed of the working body is high, wood burning is possible

Rice. 8 Universal elastic support with Velcro for electric drill or angle grinder

When working with such mechanization equipment, safety rules must be strictly observed.

1. A lot of wood dust is generated, so a respirator and glasses will protect your vision and breathing.
2. Gloves with a rubber working surface will protect the worker’s hands.
3. It is advisable to wear an apron, then it is easier to shake out the dust from your clothes.

Special ones are available for working with elastic supports. grinding wheels(Fig. 9). They are installed and removed in one motion.

Rice. 9 Replaceable abrasive wheels for power tools

Vibratory grinders

To process large areas of wooden surfaces, it is convenient to use a vibratory sander (Fig. 10). It has a vibrator that causes the sole to make small back-and-forth movements relative to the body. A strip of abrasive sandpaper is attached to the sole. She grinds the surface under the sole of the tool.

Rice. 10 Vibratory sander

The performance of such small electric machines quite high. In an hour of work you can finish several square meters surfaces. The only drawback is that they need to be stopped after 5...7 minutes of operation. The vibrator needs to be cooled. It has no fans.

You can attach sandpaper of different roughness to the sole. Manufacturers recommend using a fabric-based abrasive. Then it lasts longer.

Surface belt sanders

The most productive are surface belt grinders. They use abrasive sandpaper glued into a tape (Fig. 11). All such tools are equipped with a small bag for collecting wood dust. During operation, more than 80% of the dust generated accumulates inside this bag.

Rice. 11 Belt sander

Manufacturers recommend intermittent operation: grind for 5...7 minutes, and then give the tool a break. Even the presence of a fan inside does not effectively cool the device. After a three-minute break, you can continue working.

Manufacturers supply tools assistive devices, with which you can fix the grinding machine in space (Fig. 12).

Rice. 12 Installing the belt sander on the table

Craftsmen make special stands for belt sanders, with the help of which the scope of application of the devices is significantly expanded (Fig. 13). With the help of such options, it becomes possible to polish the ends of products with high quality. The underframe itself can be fixed at any angle, which will allow for high-quality processing.

Rice. 13 Stand for belt sander

The industry produces stationary belt sanders (Fig. 14). They are called grinders. With the help of such devices, it becomes possible to grind products by resting them on a special support table. A grinder is similar in many ways to a belt sander. In fact, this is stationary machine, where you can carry out quite complex wood finishing operations.

Rice. 14 Grinder

Flap grinding tools

One more big class there are special petal ones. They are manufactured in radial (Fig. 15) and end (Fig. 16) versions. They are quite convenient to use. The surface of the wood is easily and quickly processed with such a tool.

These abrasive drums and discs are installed on drills and grinders. Craftsmen adapt them to specialized woodworking machines.

Video: High-quality sanding of wood

Sanding a wooden floor is used to obtain a perfectly smooth surface of a parquet or plank flooring. Moreover, this technology is used for both old and new flooring. In the first case, renovation or updating is carried out, in the second - leveling and preparation for finishing protective agents: varnish, oil, wax.

Any wooden floor is assembled from many elements. When laying new parquet blocks or large-format slats, it is very difficult to achieve a perfectly flat surface. The most common occurrence is fluctuations, minor defects, scratches, areas with sapwood.

Almost the same set of problems occurs with old flooring that has been in use for more than one year. Sanding a wooden floor is designed to eliminate all these shortcomings, the essence of which is polishing the wood and preparing its surface for varnish, oil, wax or any other decorative protective agent.

Thus, the goals of grinding are:

1. Leveling the floor;
2. Elimination of surface defects;
3. Removing old paintwork and dirt.

Renovation of an old wooden floor.

Sanding a wooden floor correctly is not an easy task. For this purpose a series is used hand tools or electrical units. But the secret to good performance is to gradually reduce the grit size of the sanding attachment. That is, first of all, rough processing is carried out with sandpaper with a grain of 40-60 units, then fine - 100-120, 140-180 units. Following this simple rule will allow you to achieve excellent results even in difficult cases. For example, if wood flooring has multiple surface damage or differences between planks of more than 3 mm.

Sand the floor no need in the following cases:

How to sand wooden floors

Processing a new wood coating and restoring an old one begins with the question: which tool to choose? Focus on two basic conditions - the amount of work and financial capabilities.

Masters perform grinding in two ways:

To sand a wooden floor manually you will need:

During manual as well as machine grinding, it is advisable not to forget about personal protection - a respirator mask and protective glasses.

For quick and high-quality preparation of wooden floors, the machine method is most often used. In this case, they apply the following types electrical equipment:

• Belt or drum type sander.

This is a complex unit for preliminary scraping and rough sanding of coatings made from boards or small-format parquet blocks. Abrasive grain size – from 40 to 80 units. The difference between the tape and drum apparatus is small. For the first, a cutting belt of abrasive paper is used, which moves between two moving rollers. The second uses a piece of sanding belt glued to a specific drum size, which is installed on a cylindrical shaft.

Note that grinding machine This category is produced in a wide range: professional and standard, with a single-phase connection for 220 V or three-phase for 380 V, with an integrated dust bag or an adapter for connecting a construction vacuum cleaner, etc. The cost varies widely: household appliances can be purchased on average for 3,000 - 50,000 rubles, the price of professional ones reaches up to 600,000 rubles.

• Surface grinder.

It is produced as a single-disc with a mono sandpaper attachment or as a three-disc, equipped with 3 abrasive wheels with a grain size from 100 to 340 units.

This type of product is intended for the finest, literally jewelry final grinding wooden and cork surface. Also used for intermediate leveling varnish coating. Single-disc devices are simpler, but three-disc devices are interesting in that each element rotates around its own axis, and all three revolve around one common center.

Professional units are also equipped with a floating landing system for grinding attachments, which, in combination with multi-directional rotation, allows the surface to be worked to mirror smoothness and evenness. The price of grinding machines is from 20,000 to 220,000 rubles.

• Single-disc surface grinder of the “boot” type.

Purpose – sanding wood coverings in hard-to-reach places, for example, under radiators or on stairs, in corners or along walls. Modulus of abrasive grain size – from 40 to 320 units. Both household and professional devices are equipped with convenient rotary handles and the ability to connect vacuum cleaners or dust collectors. The price starts from 9,000 rubles.

Surface grinding machines "boot".

• Angle grinders.

Includes grinders, vibrating and eccentric (orbital) polishers. This group also includes small household-type belt units. Recommended for coarse and fine processing wooden surfaces. Convenient for working in hard-to-reach places and on small areas. Some products are equipped with a speed or motor power controller, as well as a kind of adapter for connecting a vacuum cleaner or dust collector.

The cheapest are vibration devices. Their cost varies from 1,000 to 35,000 rubles. Grinders can be purchased for household, semi-professional and professional purposes at prices ranging from 1,500 to 70,000 rubles. Orbital machines will cost a little more - from 3,000 to 90,000 rubles.

In addition to the above units, you need to purchase or rent a construction vacuum cleaner in advance and buy a whole set of components. Including abrasive wheels, belts or attachments of various grain sizes (preferably from 40 to 240 units), scissors, etc.

What is the best grinding machine to choose? There is no exact answer to this question, but it is worth paying attention to the main parameters:

Purpose and class of product

Household products are lightweight, low priced and compact in size. But they are intended for one-time or rare work. Power – no more than 1 kW. In addition, the width or diameter usable surface rarely exceeds 15 cm. Work with them exactly large areas It’s difficult for an inexperienced master - you need a good eye and a steady hand.

The professional series are large-sized and heavy devices with a working width of up to 30 cm or a diameter of up to 60 cm. There is good thermal protection, a special kit for quickly changing attachments, as well as various protective elements - RCDs, limiters, speed switches, rotary ergonomic handles, etc. The average power consumption of a grinding machine is about 2-2.5 kW.

Grinding machine for the pros.

Build quality

Pay attention not only to ease of use, but also to the quality of the parts. The machine must have flat surface, without chips, coating sagging, drips, gaps between parts are minimal. Be sure to check the strength and reliability of the fastening elements.

Availability of additional devices

Including dust collectors or adapters for connecting a vacuum cleaner, soft start and engine speed control functions, overheating protection, etc.

All other criteria are selected by the buyer independently. We recommend choosing products famous manufacturers, such as Lagler, Stanley, Bosch, Aeg, etc. They not only provide a warranty and post-warranty service, but also have a wide network of dealers and service centers in Russia and CIS countries.

Technology

The sanding job is not that easy. This is a rather complex and labor-intensive complex, including six main stages.

Coating preparation

The new flooring must be checked for defects, such as fallen knots, un-glued dies, protruding nails, chips, and excessively wide gaps. The old parquet is checked for integrity, damage and strength of fixation. To eliminate deficiencies they most often use parquet glue and putty masses (special liquids or PVA glue mixed with fine sawdust). It is better not to use elastic grouts and sealants, as they do not gain sufficient strength and “clog” the abrasive nozzle.

In order not to damage the drum or disk of the machine, all steel elements must be “sunk” into the floor by at least 3 mm. Damaged slats need to be replaced with new ones, not glued ones - fixed with glue and hardware. Dust and debris are removed with a damp cloth or a construction vacuum cleaner.

Primary grinding

Rough grinding.

First of all, a drum or belt type machine is used as the most productive and efficient. This stage is most often called scraping or rough grinding of the surface, since an abrasive material with a grain size of 40 or 60 units is used. Uneven surfaces, scratches, old paintwork, dirt, etc. are removed.

Professional devices allow you to adjust the clamping force of the abrasive. This is very convenient, because it ensures a uniform fit of the nozzle to the surface, which means more quality work. A tape or glued strip is installed on the base, carefully fixed and deep processing is carried out:

• For decking - along the grain from wall to wall. Transverse movement during such laying is allowed only when the machine is turning around vertical enclosing structures;
• On herringbone parquet - diagonally, with uniform advancement over the entire surface;
• When laying wicker, shield or palace parquet (multi-directional installation) - crosswise without highlighting individual sections;
• On artistic parquet– circular motion, twisted in a spiral

The grinding process is quite dusty, therefore drafts are an undesirable phenomenon. Therefore, be sure to close the windows and entrance doors in the work area.

The technician must periodically check the condition of the abrasive attachment and, if necessary, replace the worn part with a new one. This is a kind of preventive measure against stripes and individual untreated areas.

Upon completion of the main work, it is necessary to process corners and other hard to reach places. For rough grinding of the floor with a grinder, orbital machine or “boot”, you will need circular nozzles of the same grain size - 40 or 60 units.

Fine grinding

The final leveling stage is carried out using single- or three-disc surface grinders. In this case, all minor irregularities, dents, cracks and other defects on the floor boards are finally eliminated. For efficient work Wheels of different grain sizes are used - 60, 80, 100 and 120. In some cases, even abrasive discs with a grain size of 180 or 240 are used.

The work is again carried out along the fibers. Nozzles should be replaced with new ones as they wear out. Corners, steps and other difficult areas are processed with an angle grinder or a “boot” with circles of the same grain size. At the end of the work, the surface must be vacuumed again or wiped with a damp soft cloth. Fine wood particles and dust must be completely removed.

Filling gaps and small defects

After leveling the surface, you can begin to putty. For this, paste-like ready-made compositions for wood or special putty liquids are used. Professionals prefer the latter, since when mixed with sawdust from the treated plank floor, a mass of identical shade is obtained that perfectly fills all the voids, while being quite elastic and not cracking over time. The mixture is applied with a stainless spatula, which allows you to fill the pores while cutting off the “rising” small wood fibers.

Final sanding

Before applying varnish, oil or wax, the surface must be polished again. The work is carried out after the putty has dried and polymerized. It is implemented using a surface grinder and an angle grinder with abrasive attachments with a grain size of 120-160 units. The direction of movement is the same - along the fibers. After treatment, the floor must be thoroughly vacuumed again.

As a result, everything unnecessary is completely removed from the surface and the floor becomes perfectly smooth.

Priming and finishing coat

Even after applying the putty mixture, it is advisable to prime the floor or treat it with impregnations with a fungicidal, bioprotective or tinting effect. If you used ready-made colored putty, be prepared for the surface to be multi-colored. Putty liquids mixed with fine wood dust from parquet do not have this drawback.

After the primer has dried, the first layer of varnish, oil or wax is applied. Then intermediate, very fine floor grinding or polishing (with oil or wax) is carried out using orbital or surface grinders with nozzles with a grain size of more than 140 units. Before applying the final layer of varnish or oil-wax mixture, the surface must be vacuumed again or wiped with a damp cloth.

Thus, sanding a wooden floor requires a lot of time and effort, not to mention finances. But it is this technology that allows you to get a beautiful and remarkably smooth floor without the slightest flaw in a few days.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers with prices from construction teams and companies by email. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

When making wood products, the question often arises: “How to polish wood?” using polish to impart a protective finish. Most often, polishing is used for finishing furniture and handicrafts. The polished surface allows you to preserve the texture of the wood and gives the product a beautiful appearance.

Application of polishing for finishing

For finishing, several methods are used, for which substances are used:

• varnish;
• drying oil;
• wax paste.

When finishing wood products, when varnish is used for polishing, a protective layer, which gives the surface a marketable appearance. The polishing process involves applying special staff polish containing three times less resins than varnish. The coating formed on wood has a transparent structure and a glossy tint.

When choosing a finishing and polishing method, the type of wood must be taken into account. The most suitable types of wood for making furniture are:

• mahogany;
• birch;
• pears;
• boxwood;
• maple;
• apple trees

Also widely used, but quite labor-intensive in processing the rock:

• oak;
• pine trees.

Products used for polishing wood

For polishing wood, commercial establishments offer a large list of various finishing substances:

1. Shellac varnish – used for finishing furniture.
2. Alkyd varnish – used to cover parquet.
3. Acrylic varnish – used for processing wood products.
4. Polyurethane varnish – used for protection wooden products from precipitation.
5. Nitrovarnish - used for processing wooden products.

You can make a polish for polishing wood at home using certain substances:

• shellac resin - 60 g;
• ethyl alcohol 90* - 500 ml.

The manufacturing process is quite simple. Resin is poured into a glass container and filled with alcohol, mixed well, closed with a tight lid and infused until the resin is completely dissolved. Next, the composition is filtered and used for its intended purpose for polishing wooden products.

Polishing technology

The wood polishing process is carried out in several stages:

1. surface grinding;
2. applying primer;
3. polishing;
4. polishing.

Surface grinding

The sanding process is not particularly difficult, but it takes a lot of time to give the wood required type. The wood surface intended for finishing should not have burrs, chips, cracks or other irregularities. To do this, the tree is processed in 3 stages:

• sandpaper No. 46-60;
• sandpaper No. 80-100;
• sandpaper No. 140-170,

until the surface becomes smooth and glossy.

Grinding is done wooden block, wrapped with sandpaper along the grain of the wood. After sanding, the surface is wiped with a dry, clean rag, moistened with water and wiped with a dry rag again. A pause is maintained until complete drying for 2 hours and processed with sandpaper No. 120-140 until the remaining wood fibers are completely removed. If necessary, the operation is repeated several times until the wood is given a glossy finish.

Application of primer

The priming process is carried out using a special swab by applying varnish to the wooden surface. The tampon must be made in mandatory made of linen fabric (does not leave fabric lint).

All work processes are performed in the following sequence:

• the swab is impregnated with varnish and with its help the entire surface of the wood is treated until a uniform coating is formed;
• a pause is maintained until the varnish is completely dry, sanded with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a clean dry rag;
• apply an additional 2 layers of varnish;
• a composition is prepared consisting of 1 part polish and 1 part varnish, which covers the entire surface;
• The wood is dried for 2 days.

Polishing

The polishing process consists of applying polish to wood and is performed in the following sequence:

• a small amount is applied to a linen swab vegetable oil for better glide over the surface being treated;
• Using a swab moistened with polish, carefully wipe the entire surface;
• the processing operation is carried out 3 times with pauses after applying each layer until the polish dries completely;
• the wood is treated with fine-grained sandpaper and wiped with a dry rag (after each time the polish is applied).

Polishing

In order to polish the wood to an ideal state, working operations are performed several times until the desired result is achieved.

The following work is carried out:

• the wood is treated with fine-grained sandpaper dipped in vegetable oil;
• A small amount of vegetable oil and polish is applied to the swab and the entire surface is treated (the operation is repeated several times).

When carrying out polishing operations, when varnish or polish is used, it is necessary to comply with all technological process to create a durable, smooth, glossy wood finish. If you have certain skills and appropriate substances, you can finish wooden products at home.

When they talk about sanding a log house, they mean the material from which the building is made, however, there are some differences between sanding logs and different types timber - they should be considered later. But before deciding how best to sand a log house, you need to decide at what point after its construction you should start sanding the walls.

When to sand a frame

It is better to sand dry wood - it turns out better, while working with wet wood lead to separation of fibers and present a certain complexity. But for this you will have to wait quite a long time. Some breeds can take up to 7 years to dry. However, after this long term, the log house may lose its attractive appearance- tree without protective coatings will be subject to any negative influence from the outside, it can dry out, crack, or become rotten due to humidity.

Of course, it would be possible to cover it with paint or other protective agent, but without sanding the applied coating will not have strong adhesion to natural material, which means that all the listed misfortunes will still happen, only a little later.

So it turns out that sanding needs to be done on naturally damp, not yet dried wood in order to cut off all the irregularities and prepare the material for treatment with agents that prevent premature wear.

Before sanding the frame, let’s ask ourselves what other benefits sanding provides.

• Sanding removes the pores of fungi and mold from the surface of the wood.
• With this type of work, dirt and roughness are removed from the walls.
• In this way you can protect the walls from direct sunlight which causes darkening of wood.
• As a result of the procedure, the impregnating agents are applied evenly to the wood.

Now is the time to think about how to polish the frame.

To process logs, you need a tool that is convenient for rounded surfaces, so you can opt for an angle grinder - an angle grinder.

To work, you will need special disc attachments with an emery coating.

When working with timber, a belt sander is suitable. If you decide to do this yourself, use a more compact and easy option tool.

In addition, you will need a large amount of sandpaper, since not all areas can be reached with the tool.

And so, we come to the most important thing - how to polish a log house.

Grinding rules

• For safety reasons, prepare safety glasses and a mask with a respirator; to avoid small wood particles getting into your eyes and respiratory tract, use work gloves.
• Distribute the work so that the well-treated wood is immediately covered with a protective agent.
• First, use coarse sandpaper, and only at the end use sandpaper with finer grains.
• Be prepared for the process to be quite lengthy.

Wood floor care - sanding

Sanding refers to finishing works and is an integral part of care wooden floors. How to sand a wooden floor is a pressing problem for many owners of this flooring.

In order for wood floors to serve for a long time and delight you with their appearance, they need to be constantly kept in perfect condition: painted, coated with tinting compounds, wax or varnish, but all this will have no effect if the wood is not sanded first. You should immediately find out what is the best way to sand wood.

The work will require some costs - no, you will not have to buy special equipment, you can rent a grinding machine, or you will have to invite a specialist.

But for full-fledged work, you need to acquire a tool for places that a grinding device simply cannot reach.

• This is sandpaper of different grits in large quantities.
• A tool for simple (rough) grinding - a scraper.
• You will also need a so-called “boot” - a mini-machine for difficult areas.

Now let's find out how to properly sand a wooden floor.

Working with the floor

1. We start by taking out all the furniture and removing the baseboards.
2. We check the floors for protruding nails and reliable fastening floorboards
3. We fill the equipment with coarse sandpaper (40) and go through the room diagonally.
4. We adjust the pressure of the drum to the floor - it should be medium.
5. It should be remembered that you need to turn the car on and off while driving.
6. After the first pass over the area, the sandpaper is replaced with finer sandpaper (100-120).
7. Finally, we process corners and hard-to-reach areas using a sander, a scraper and sandpaper.

Now you know how to sand a wooden or parquet floor.

After the procedure, the floor must be vacuumed and you can begin painting or applying varnish.

All photos from the article

This may seem strange to sophisticated people, but the question of how to sand wood is quite relevant. Therefore, it needs to be given due attention. We will provide you with all possible answers on the topic, and also show you visual video In this article.

Different ways to sand wood

Classification of sandpaper and types of abrasive

Note. Basically, all sandpaper is classified by grit. That is, according to the grain size of the abrasive.

Purpose	Marking (GOST 3647-80)	Marking (ISO-6344)	Grain number (µm)
Coarse paper
Roughing	80-N	P22	800-1000
	63-N	P24	630-800
	50-N	P36	500-630
Rough processing	40-N	P40	400-500
	32-N	P46	315-400
	25-N	P60	250-315
Primary grinding	20-N	P80	200-250
	16-N	P90	160-200
	12-N	P100	125-160
	10-N	P120	100-125
Finish and paints	8-N	P150	80-100
	6-H	P180	63-80
Fine grain paper
Polishing and wet sanding for finishing	5-N,M63	P240	50-63
	4-N,M50	P280	40-50
For metal, plastic and ceramics	M40\N-3	P400	28-40
Finest grinding and polishing	M28\N-2	P600	20-28
	M20\N-1	P1000	14-20
	M14	P1200	10-14
	M10/N-0	P1500	7-10

Marking and grit table

Electrocorundum:

• a charge of bauxite agglomerate, iron filings and carbonaceous material is melted in arc furnaces, from which electrocorundum abrasive is obtained;
• he has high density and excellent cutting ability, but in some cases these properties are improved by adding alloying additives to the size, for example, chromium oxide (the abrasive in this case has a ruby ​​color, as in the photo above);
• sandpaper with electrocorundum is produced most often.

Silicon carbide:

• To obtain abrasive in Acheson kilns, graphite is sintered with silica, resulting in shiny crystals irregular shape with sharp edges;
• Silicon corundum is convenient because during operation the crystals split and form new cutting edges. This property allows you to preserve the working surface for a long time, avoiding clogging.

Pomegranate:

• for sanding wood, garnet is the highest quality abrasive, despite its softness (6.5-7.5 Mohs);
• the paper wears out quite quickly, but due to the same grain sizes, sanding gives more smooth surface compared to other abrasives.

Diamond, elbor:

• Diamond has the highest hardness and elbor is slightly inferior to it in this regard, therefore, such abrasives can be called the best in the world;
• the problem is that the price of these minerals is too high, so they are rarely used for sandpaper.

Sanding methods

Note. For sanding wood, the instructions recommend the use of two main methods - manual and mechanical. But each of them has several options, which we will now discuss.

The most common method of sanding wood is by hand, and this is not surprising despite technological progress. The fact is that you often have to process fairly small, hard-to-reach or embossed surfaces that cannot be reached with various electrical devices.

For relief surfaces Of course, it’s better not to use anything at all and hold the paper in your hand - the sandpaper on the wood will follow all the curves that you will feel with your fingers. This way the processing will be of the highest quality.

As a last resort, a piece of foam rubber is placed between the fingers and the paper - sensitivity, of course, decreases. But, nevertheless, such a device is capable of going around all contours, for example, on a baguette or baseboard, evenly sanding the surface.

For flat surfaces, an ordinary block is often used, wrapped with sandpaper. This way you get two flat planes - one being processed and the other acting, which leads to the greatest production efficiency.

And, of course, there is a special device for this called a block. The sheet on it is simply tensioned using clamps that are located along the upper edges of the board - this device is shown in the top photo.

If it is intended to cover a large area, then in such cases you can use an angle grinder (angle grinder) - an angle grinder or a milling cutter, on which you put a special round (disc) attachment, where there is Velcro on the working side.

Then, sandpaper of the desired grit is applied to this disc. But such a device is effective for rough processing, for example, when sanding log or timber buildings.

More high-quality processing Wood surfaces can be produced using a belt sander, but it is intended exclusively for flat surfaces. For example, if you need to sand the floor with your own hands, then directly handmade This is out of the question due to the processing area being too large.

But the car will cope with this quite quickly. Narrow paper (specially produced for this purpose) of the required grain size is placed on the broaching mechanism - the sanding is of high quality.

Conclusion

We hope that you have understood how to sand wood correctly and all you have to do is select the desired paper grain size. But if you still have questions, you can ask our specialists in the comments section - we are ready to answer all questions.