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Good lighting can radically transform any room, just as poor quality lighting can make the room uncomfortable and gloomy. For example, in restaurants and cafes, soft, warm lighting always predominates, conducive to relaxation and rest, but cold and harsh light in hospitals, on the contrary, strains the eyesight. IN winter time we especially miss sunlight, but I want the house to be light and cozy. Beautiful floor lamps and lamps can create a cozy homely atmosphere. But if you haven't found suitable model in the store, you can make a lampshade for table lamp with your own hands. We will learn more about how to do this in this article.

Where to start creating a lampshade?

First, select a lamp or several lamps at once that you decide to transform. Devices with LED and energy-saving lamps are excellent for this.

Important! Please note that ordinary light bulbs can burn through fabric.

First of all, we remove the frame onto which the new lampshade will be sewn. If it is not there, then you can buy a new one at a hardware store or a specialized salon.

In principle, you can make a frame with your own hands; for this you need to purchase pliers and thick wire. As for the form, here you can fantasize as much as you wish. But for it to arise less problems, it is better to make a cone-shaped or cylindrical frame.

What materials can a new lampshade be made from?

Before considering how to make a lampshade for a table lamp with your own hands, you need to familiarize yourself with the possible options for choosing available materials. Even the oldest lamp can be made stylish and attractive.

For this you can use the most different materials. For example, beautiful fabrics, old photographic film, beads, ribbons, fabric and knitted flowers, plastic, mesh, various papers and even wallpaper.

Now let’s take a closer look at the most popular options for transforming old lamps and creating real masterpieces.

DIY paper lampshade

Paper lampshades are made not only by folk craftsmen, but are also sold in ordinary stores that sell home furniture. As a rule, they are not cheap, so it is more rational to make them yourself.

Important! The shape of such a lampshade can be any, and due to this they can be used in a wide variety of modern interiors.

For these purposes, you need to buy only the highest quality and thickest paper so that the product will last as long as possible.

Important! It must be remembered that the thickness of the paper will determine how much light the lampshade will transmit.

There are several types of paper that are ideal for making such products:

1. Rice paper lampshade. This material adheres well to old lamps, which gives them a new shine. Often finished products are decorated with special stamps, in particular when using a plain base. White lampshades harmonize perfectly with muted shades and natural materials.
2. Lampshades made from wallpaper. This idea is especially attractive due to its minimal financial costs. You can even use remnants of wallpaper lying around after renovation.

Important! The most popular option is to make a cap for a table lamp in the form of an accordion:

• First, take a piece of wallpaper about one and a half meters long and no more than 30 centimeters wide.
• Then it is folded into an accordion.
• After this, the resulting lampshade is holed and strings are threaded through it.
• Then the structure is glued together.

Lampshade for home made of mesh

Now let’s look at how to make a lampshade for a floor lamp with your own hands from the most ordinary metal mesh, which you can even find in your garden or dacha:

1. This material can be formed into any shape, because you just need to connect the ends and create at your discretion. More often, products are made in the shape of an ellipse or a ball. To get this shape, you need to use a ready-made frame made of thick cardboard or durable wire.
2. A mesh lampshade is attached to the light bulb cable using the same wire.

Important! The finished lampshade can be decorated with weaving from colored laces or artificial flowers.

Lace lamp shade

With the help of such lampshades you can make the interior of your home more elegant and light. The lace itself, depending on the variety, allows you to make the light brighter or more diffuse.

Important! Such products look great in children's rooms, bedrooms and living rooms.

Here are some useful tips to help you along the way:

• Naturally, the main material for making such a lampshade for a table lamp with your own hands will be lace. But if for someone they seem too expensive, then you can replace them lace napkins or pieces of old curtains and tulle.
• The material must be cut correctly in order to ultimately give it the shape of a circle, strip or square.
• The most difficult thing is to glue individual elements using special glue, so this must be done as carefully and carefully as possible.

Important! Lace can be glued even to the most ordinary balloon or a prepared frame covered with paper or fabric.

Stylish beaded lampshade

Now we will learn how to make a frame for a lampshade with our own hands, which will then be covered with beads. In this case, you can make the base from the same wire or an old frame. But the product itself will be made of beads, and not paper or fabric, as in previous cases.

Important! Such a lampshade will transmit light perfectly, and the result itself is truly admirable.

To work you will need a frame, fishing line and, of course, beads:

1. The end of the fishing line should be firmly attached to the base, and you can string beads onto it, making knots between them so that they do not move.
2. The second end of the line is then attached to the frame.

Important! The process of making such a lampshade is quite labor-intensive, but all the work is compensated by a unique decorative effect.

Original fabric lampshade

Many needlewomen are interested in how to sew a lampshade for a table lamp from various fabrics left over after making other interior items or sewing clothes.

Important! In principle, light, dense, and hard fabrics are suitable for this. Some craftsmen even manage to make lampshades from wool - it all depends on the interior of the apartment and their own flight of fancy.

If you already have a wire frame, then it is better to use an opaque material that will help hide it, such as taffeta, cotton or dark silk.

The manufacturing process of a fabric lampshade consists of several stages:

1. Making a template to cut correctly required quantity material:
   1. If the frame has the shape of a cylinder, then you can measure the circumference and draw one line on the fabric, and then measure the height and mark it with a second line. After this, you only need to finish the two remaining sides and cut out the finished template.
   2. If the frame is cone-shaped, then you need to lay out the paper and use a pencil to mark dotted lines on the sheet as you pass it along the sheet. The frame should rotate completely. Then we connect the lines and cut out the template.
2. We attach the template to the finished frame to check whether it fits exactly in size. If its dimensions do not match, you need to take measurements again and make a new template.
3. Having received the template that is correct by all standards, we attach it to the fabric:
   1. If you have chosen a material with a print, then you need to position the template in such a way that all elements of the pattern face the same direction.
   2. You need to apply it to the wrong side of the material, and then attach it with pins.
   3. Then we outline the template and be sure to make small allowances.
   4. Carefully remove the pins and fold the seam allowances inside.
   5. We fix the fold line with pins.
4. We sew the resulting parts on a sewing machine on three sides, one should remain unprocessed so that it is possible to then form a seam directly on the frame.
5. Using an iron, smooth the fabric blank thoroughly.
6. Cover the work surface with a piece of old tablecloth or paper, and lay the fabric on it. Apply glue to it and wait a few minutes.
7. We glue the fabric to our frame and hide the raw cut. The seam must be made as neat as possible.
8. Leave the finished lampshade for some time to dry completely. Within a day you can put it on your favorite table lamp and enjoy the result.

So, having figured out how to do it correctly, let’s take on its main lighting and at the same time decorative elements: lampshade and shade. Reflectors are technologically simpler; their manufacture and attachment to load-bearing structure the chandelier does not cause any difficulties.

About attaching lampshades

The Internet is full of pictures with really very beautiful homemade lamps. However, looking at them, ask yourself: how do you replace a light bulb? The answer is not always found in the primary sources. Methods for fastening lighting elements in lamps, allowing lamp replacement without the use of tools, will be discussed in, but the technological methods described later in this are designed for the fact that the lampshade in this case either moves up, or is removed down, or you can simply climb into it with your hand.

Materials

In order of increasing complexity (and durability), do-it-yourself lampshades and lampshades at home can be made from paper, plastics, threads, and ready-made tubes various kinds, twine or yarn, framed with a fabric cover and stained glass. The last 2 are quite complex, but with a skillful approach to work, the lighting and decorative qualities can surpass expensive store-bought ones.

Paper

Making a paper lampshade is the easiest way: from materials other than paper, you will need threads and PVA glue, and from tools - a sewing needle, scissors and, possibly, a sharp mounting knife. However, paper lampshades are fragile and therefore suitable mainly for chandeliers. But a damaged paper lampshade can be easily replaced with a new one.

You can make a paper lamp a little stronger different ways. The simplest way is to make a lampshade-ball from paper strips, gluing them at the poles and among themselves, pos. 1 in Fig. However, the design in this case is uniform: sufficient strength of the product is ensured only and only by its spherical shape.

Another way is to strengthen the paper itself. He'll ask for a little additional material: copper enameled winding wire with a diameter of 0.25-0.4 mm or threads. In the first case, the lampshade will fit without additional reinforcement for a floor lamp, and in the second for overhead decorative elements you will need a solid one load-bearing base, eg. from a plastic bottle. The lampshade paper is strengthened with wire as follows:

• On a sheet with a density of 90-140 g/m2. see the contours of the parts are drawn.
• Using a finely sharpened pencil or a mechanical one with a 0.6 mm rod, draw the lines of the rigidity grid. If the lampshade is glued together from several whole or slightly cut sheets, the grid lines should form a seamless pattern.
• Apply a thin layer of PVA glue with a brush.
• When the glue dries to the touch, apply veins - stiffeners - made of wire along the mesh.
• Lubricate the same PVA sheet with a density of 35-60 g/sq. cm, place it on the first one and gently smooth it with your fingers.
• A day later, the parts are cut out with scissors, glued together and painted. In this way you can even imitate the wings of rare species of butterflies, poses. 2; in this case, the Swallowtail Maak.

When using threads, both sheets are taken with a density of up to 60 g/m2. cm. Then, as said, you will need a supporting base, but you can even imitate the texture of rose petals, pos. 3.

Note: a paper lampshade, durable “almost like a real one,” can be made from papier-mâché. The technology, which is quite labor-intensive, is described below, see about lampshades for the kitchen.

Plastics

It’s easy to make a lampshade for a chandelier from disposable plastic cups, fastened with a stapler, see fig. Its lighting qualities are very good, but its appearance is frankly utilitarian. Therefore, it makes sense to use such lampshades in rooms with fairly high requirements for the quality of lighting, but not in front rooms. The directional pattern (DP) of a lampshade made from cups is formed by a cardioid pattern.

Lampshade made from plastic glasses

Fan pattern with wide opening, very soft light in the central spot and uniform illumination in the side zone, allows you to achieve a lamp with a lampshade-cone (or pineapple?) from bitten plastic spoons on a base in the form of a PET bottle with a cut off bottom, see fig. Effective light softening is achieved by the spoons acting as translucent bowl-shaped reflectors. They are glued to the bottle and glued together with silicone glue, mounting or a glue gun. Cyanoacrylate glue is also suitable, but it must be thick. Cheap “superglue” is very fluid, drips will spread everywhere and spoil the glossy surfaces of spoons.

You can also make good lampshades from bottles alone. For example, a sphere from their bottoms, fastened with a stapler, like stopper cups (see the figure for a mini-master class), will give a cardioid pattern; however, compared to the “established” one, it is noticeably distorted. But at the dacha or in utility rooms, a chandelier made from bottoms is quite useful.

Lampshade made from bottle bottoms

Romantic soft light, somewhat spotty, but within acceptable limits, will be provided by a globe lamp made of bottle “hedgehogs”; however, they look more like blooming sea anemones - sea anemones, see photo on the right. It’s not difficult to make the “hedgehogs” themselves: the bottoms of the bottles are cut off, side walls up to the scar, before narrowing, they are cut into the neck, the strips are wrapped around the neck, glued with drops of glue and secured with thread or tape for reliability. However, to assemble the “hedgehogs” into a lampshade, you will need a transparent spherical base. It is made in the same way as a lampshade made from threads (see below), only the threads are white nylon or propylene no thicker than 20 gauge, and instead of PVA, colorless water-based acrylic varnish is used.

A lampshade made from leaves cut from bottles allows you to achieve very uniform illumination and is very decorative, see fig. It is assembled on a temporary spherical mandrel, see below.

The step-by-step master class in this case is also simple, but requires patience, accuracy, some additional tool and possibly material:

1. We are preparing a soldering iron with a nickel-plated bronze tip (for dry soldering) at 40 W or with a regular copper tip at 25 W;
2. If the tip is copper, you will also need Teflon (fluoroplastic) tape 0.06 mm wide, 60-80 mm wide;
3. Cut out leaves from the bottle. From a lighting engineering point of view, pale green or light brown are better;
4. Using a soldering iron tip (copper - through the film) slightly melt the edges of the leaves, otherwise they will look unnatural;
5. Using the tip of the sting (copper also through the film) we “draw” the veins;
6. Using the flat of the sting between the veins, with light touches, we slightly melt the surface so that it is, like real leaves, not completely smooth;
7. Again, using the tip of the sting, going deeper, but without piercing, we bring out the central vein. It is convenient to do this on a soft, heat-resistant backing (calico or felt in several layers will do);
8. We place a thread in the central vein and fuse it by “screwing” the side roll onto the hollow;
9. If required, we form complex leaves by tying together threads of leaves;
10. Having laid out the leaves on the film (now any film), using a pipette we impregnate the threads with acrylic varnish. Once it dries, the foliage is ready for assembly.

Threads

The procedure for making New Year's decorations and lamps from threads has been described many times in RuNet. For example, video:

Video: DIY twine/thread lampshade

Here we can only note that, firstly, you will need at least 100 m of thread for a medium-sized lampshade. Secondly, there is no point in using inflatable balls as mandrels: after 10-20 turns, under the pressure of the stretched threads, the ball protrudes where it is not necessary, and the end result is something inconceivable. Thirdly, there is also no need to soak the threads in flour paste in advance: the product will turn out fragile and not moisture-resistant.

As a mandrel when making a lampshade from threads, it is best to use a tightly inflated chamber from a sports ball or a durable silicone beach ball, inflated from a pump through a nipple. The mandrel is lubricated several times with petroleum jelly (lanolin), carefully rubbing it with your hands. It won't harm the ball in any way; on the contrary, it will prolong his life.

Next, the thread is wound onto the mandrel, continuously pulled through a simple device, see fig. This mini-impregnation bath, so that it does not accidentally crawl, tip over or spill glue on something, is secured on the table with tape; convenient double-sided. The glass is first pierced with a needle and thread, then PVA or acrylic varnish is poured and shaken, tightening as necessary. Usually the thread goes through the bath itself, because glue until it dries is a good lubricant.

When winding, do not forget to leave a window for entering the cable and cartridge - the strength of the cut thread ball drops sharply! A day later, after its completion, the air is released from the mandrel and pulled out through the same window. “Vase-green”, it sticks to the threads very rarely and weakly: you can tear it off by slightly pulling or pressing it with your finger, but the product remains intact.

Note: Instead of thread, you can use jute, sisal or propylene twine, but there will be a lampshade for it best use, see below.

And where is all this going?

Ball lamps, see fig., are suitable for children's rooms, because... form an even soft light. The one on the left is made from paper cupcake wrappers - on a yarn ball base. Threads – propylene or thin colorless nylon; binder – acrylic varnish. White in the spool, after impregnation with varnish, such threads become almost transparent. The lampshade-ball made from cups (on the right) is not so interesting, because... The dishes are all the same, but it is also more difficult to tear it apart.

A hemispherical lampshade made from the same cups would be more suitable for the hallway, see fig. on right. With a low lamp power (more precisely, its luminous flux) it will give a bright spot below and acceptable illumination of the rest of the room, so you can use low-heating incandescent lamps of 15-30 W. The fact is that the resource of energy-saving lamps and LED lamps decreases sharply when switched on/off frequently. And a low-power incandescent lamp, especially in the hallway where the light is not constantly on, will not significantly increase electricity costs.

A special case is the kitchen. The lighting requirements for it are set out in the previous article. But the lampshade in the kitchen quickly gets dirty, and the soot eats away firmly. Let us remember: bright light promotes condensation and bituminization of vapors of organic compounds. This is the deposition of soot; the lampshade is illuminated most brightly.

The simplest solution is a disposable paper lampshade. “Bump”, as in pos. 1 pic. below will give just the right type of lighting in the kitchen, but you will have to redo it quite often. It is better to mold a papier-mâché lampshade on a suitable frame, pos. 2. After varnishing with acrylic varnish, it can be carefully washed with a cloth and dishwashing detergent, and painted with a forge patina, it will look like forged self made and certainly not on some old newspapers.

But the lampshade for pos. 3 – juice straws glued to the bottle – an example of a bad solution. Such a lampshade will provide ideal light for the kitchen (the straws also work partly as light guides), but it will get dirty quickly, you can’t clean it properly, and the product is labor-intensive. Plastic reflectors for kitchen lamps for local lighting are best made from reusable plastic dishes, pos. 4, it is quite durable, inexpensive and easy to clean. Cups with handles and saucers, of course, are a matter of design decision, but bowls without a pattern are what you need.

How to make papier-mâché?

Papier-mâché is a useful material for many purposes, so let us recall the technology of its preparation and use:

• Old newspapers, or, better yet, the cheapest unglued writing paper are torn into shreds about the size of a thumbnail. You will need a lot of paper!
• Fill a suitable container with scraps to the top; say, a liter glass jar.
• Dilute 1/3-1/5 PVA by volume in boiling water.
• While the solution has not cooled, pour it into the paper pulp.
• Stir until the paper completely dissolves into fibers.
• Once the papier-mâché has cooled, pour it into a consumable container or use it immediately. Paper paste can be stored for up to 6 months. in the refrigerator in a tightly sealed container.
• Prepare the next portion in the same way.
• If the paper paste goes into use right away, you can add the next one to the stuck area of ​​the mandrel while the previous one is still wet and crumpled with your fingers. If you apply it dry, the product, when dry, may fall apart into “cakes”.
• The workpiece is ready for varnishing, painting, etc. after a week of drying at a temperature not lower than 22 degrees. The air temperature around the workpiece must be the same on all sides! Dry on a radiator, convector, in direct sunlight or infrared emitter it is forbidden!

Tubes

Lampshades and shades from sections of tubes are most often made for bedside lamps and lamps in the bedroom: due to their round cross-section, there is always a significant refraction of light, which can be very intimate and romantic, but in most cases is undesirable for constant and working lighting. Lampshades made of translucent tubes also provide a rather dappled light, see figure; if you use pieces of thin transparent PVC hose, the play of light will turn out very beautiful, but you don’t need to look at it for a long time, much less read or sew in such light.

Paper and other fibrous materials refract light little, but tubes made from them are not strong in themselves. For example, it is better to make a lampshade made of newspaper tubes on a frame, see below: precisely because they wrinkle easily, thin paper tubes are an excellent material for weaving. As for the lighting properties, paper, especially clean paper, has excellent ones.

Lampshade on frame

Now let's move on to lampshades that are suitable anywhere, incl. and for a table lamp that can be pushed to the floor with an elbow. In addition, we will set the condition that the lampshade covering can be washed, cleaned, and changed at will. Therefore, we do not touch glass or solid hard plastic lampshades; Besides, you can’t make them at home yourself. That is, we will work on lampshades on a frame with soft lining.

About fabrics for lampshades

It is preferable to sew the decorative light cover of the lampshade from fabric with fleecy threads, i.e. natural. Due to diffraction on smooth synthetic threads, the light penetrating through such a lampshade may be hard. Choosing fabric for a lampshade by eye is not difficult: through the sample, turning it smoothly, look at some compact bright light source; preferably LED, because it gives the most coherent, i.e. ordered, light. The selection criterion is simple: the less moire fringes are observed from different viewing angles, the better the fabric.

About restoring the lampshade

The lampshade frame is quite labor-intensive and technologically complex, so first you need to look around the household to see if there is a lampshade from an old lamp lying around somewhere. Straightening it, repairing it and updating the lampshade with a new cover will be easier than making the frame from scratch.

The discovered “basket” may turn out to be of a very elaborate shape, and to create patterns (see below) you will need to accurately measure its diameters in several places. In this case, a homemade caliper from 3 will help out wooden slats and a pair of drawing squares. Of course, it will not give the accuracy of a factory rod, but achievable (+/–1 mm) is enough for cutting and sewing work. And an idea of ​​the capabilities of such a tool is given in Fig.

The measurement procedure is a 2-step procedure: marks are made with a pencil on the sponges where they touch the object, and then the size is taken between the marks with a tape measure. In order for the movable sponge to glide more smoothly, and, accordingly, the measurement to be more accurate, you need to place a fluoroplastic film under the rubber bands holding it. To measure small diameters, the jaws are turned over with the squares facing out.

Constructing a pattern

Now we remove the necessary diameters: the lower and upper hoops (D1 and D11 in position 1 in the figure), the largest and smallest on the belts (D2, D6, D10), in places of kinks, i.e. where the curvature of the generatrix changes sign (D4, D8) and at kinks (D5). We take the others more or less evenly between the mandatory ones.

The diameters of the pattern of 6 wedges will, taking into account the tightening of the fabric, be equal to half the measured diameters (item 2). If there are supposed to be more or fewer wedges of the finished sleeve, proportionally change the proportion of the diameter in the corresponding diameter of the pattern. But it’s too early to cut and sew.

There at pos. 2 it can be seen that the seaming allowance is not geometrically completely similar to the template. In knot I (kink inward) this is not so bad: you can sew on a drawstring sleeve and tighten the seam with a cord. If the decor of the lampshade involves ruffles, frills, scallops, etc., then perhaps this is how it should be: small folds will fall into place, and the cord will not be visible at a break in the contour.

However, on the shelf of the contour (node ​​II), no matter how you look at it, it is in no way possible to give an allowance so that the seam does not “run away”. In higher geometry it is proven why, but we don’t need to go into this jungle: we will simply cut the paper template according to “capricious” diameters at the kinks and shelves (item 3).

Sewing a cover

Now, how to sew a lampshade using our patterns? First, individual parts of the sleeve are sewn; in this case, bottom, middle and top. Then the widest adjacent part (here the middle) is sewn to the widest belt (bottom). Next, the 2 parts that are next in width are sewn together in the same way, etc. The point is that the shortest transverse seam (we have Seam 2) is sewn last. IN this sample After sewing the bottom to the middle, the top is sewn to them. The sewing of the cover is completed by trimming the excess allowances, except for the lower and upper hems. The edges must be trimmed.

Frame covering

The next stage is placing the cover on the frame. This is where the machine can be put in the closet: the work is entirely manual. Step by step covering the lampshade frame with a cover is done as follows:

1. The cover is turned inside out (it’s probably clear that it was sewn from the inside out) and put on the frame;
2. Wrap it inside and stitch the top flap;
3. Pull and trim the fabric to the first bend (here D8). If there was no hoop in the original sample, it must be installed in advance, see below;
4. Baste the fabric to the edges of the frame from top to bottom, alternately, and to the hoop at the bend;
5. Repeat paragraphs. 3 and 4 to the next bend (now D5), and so on to the bottom hoop;
6. Wrap and stitch the bottom flap.

Frame

How the simplest frame of a table lamp or floor lamp is constructed can be seen in pos. 1 pic. The pendant for the chandelier is different in that the ring will be at the top, the extensions from it will go to the upper hoop, and then additional holes are needed in the ring for attaching the pendant.

The ring is cut out of well-soldered and fairly durable sheet metal (bronze, brass, galvanized steel 0.4-2 mm thick) or durable plastic from 1 mm. A computer disk is suitable; for the E10 cartridge, you will only need to drill holes in it for braces and fasteners. The main dimensions of the ring for the E27 cartridge with fastening with union shaped nuts (item 3) are given in item. 2. But making a ring for fastening in the gap between the body and the clamp of the cartridge with a skirt (item 4) is unacceptable! Such cartridges are attached only with a threaded fitting in the lid!

How the stretchers are attached to the ring is shown in pos. 5: their blanks are not bent completely with a hook, inserted into the mounting holes and carefully pressed with pliers. Then, if the ring is metal, solder it (see below). If it is plastic, fix it with drops of superglue or silicone.

Soldered assembly

Frame parts are made of plastic steel wire with a diameter of 1.5-2 mm or bicycle spokes. The latter are much stronger, do not rust and do not require painting, but they need to be bent carefully and they are less soldered. To solder the frame you will need:

• A soldering iron of at least 65 W (preferably 100-150 W).
• 6% solution of orthophosphoric acid. Sold for soldering in radio stores and construction stores. Orthophosphoric acid is also available as food additive E338 in the form of needle-shaped, colorless, hygroscopic crystals.
• Flux paste (gel for soldering), always with borax.
• Thin, 0.15-0.35 mm, bare copper wire. You can take strands from an electrical wire.
• Solder POS-30 or POS-40. They are refractory (that’s why you need a powerful soldering iron), but much stronger than POS-61 and other low-melting ones.

Note: phosphoric acid of medium strength does not emit highly toxic and/or caustic fumes. But all the same, when working with it you need to take precautions - wear safety glasses and gloves (household latex ones will do).

The key procedures for assembling a soldered frame are shown in Fig.

The brazed steel frame is assembled in stages as follows:

• The ends of the linear blanks are kept in acid for 3-4 minutes (item 1), and then rinsed in water (item 2). You need at least 1 liter of water, and it must be changed after 4-5 washes.
• If the soldering is in the middle or the part is bent, soak a clean white rag in acid and wrap it around the soldering area. Hold for about half a minute, then rinse the rag in acid, wrap it around the soldering area again, and so on until total time the effect of acid on metal will not reach the same 3-4 minutes. After acid treatment, the part is then washed under running water for 1-2 minutes.
• Without touching the treated areas with your bare fingers, the frame is completely assembled without soldering: the soldering areas are butt tight, but not tight, i.e. with gaps between turns of 1.5-2 mm, wrapped with copper wire, pos. 3 and 4, and apply 2-3 drops of flux paste to each joint. The soldering areas at the cross parts of the parts are wrapped with 2-3 turns of copper wire crosswise and fluxed with 1-2 drops.
• Semi-dry, i.e. without a hanging drop of solder, use a soldering iron tip to heat the soldering areas until the flux spreads over all the cracks, pos. 5. There is no need to heat the flux until the flux boils and vapor appears. Also, the final result will be better if you heat the flux with a separate soldering iron with a dry nickel-plated bronze tip.
• Take a drop of solder, apply it to the soldering area (item 6) and heat until it flows everywhere, like flux before. The excess solder hanging below is carefully removed with a soldering iron tip. It is impossible to apply unmelted solder in the form of a flexible wire, and refractory solders are produced mainly in rods.

Fabric or twine?

Propylene packaging twine and paper tubes have good lighting properties. If the lampshade is made from woven twine or newspaper tubes, it will give an even, soft light, and complex cutting and sewing work will be eliminated. But the frame for a wicker lampshade must, firstly, have at least 10-12 ribs evenly spaced around the circumference.

Note: if the frame is of a simple shape, then only 3-4 ribs can be load-bearing (steel). Let the rest be made of straw; they are glued to the upper and lower hoops.

Secondly, to create rims at the top and bottom, respectively. the trains are either made double in height, with an interval of 2-3 cm, or strips are attached to them thin metal or hard plastic of the same width. Headbands are needed for decorative reasons: a solid one is wrapped with twine or a tube, and if the headband is double, the weaving can be done in a figure eight. The entire side surface is woven like a basket.

Stained glass lampshade

Stained glass lampshades generate light flux mainly by refraction, so they are more suitable for the living room.

stained glass lampshades and lampshades

Stained glass fragments are made from rhinestones, faceted or cabochons. The stained glass lampshade is assembled on a heat-resistant frame (for example, a steel bucket). But compared to stained glass for a window or door, since the connections of the elements are not solid, but point-based, there are significant differences:

1. Only strong, refractory solder is used, the same as for the lampshade frame, as well as flux with borax.
2. Before soldering, the framing of rhinestones is made only from special copper foil - folia - 3-15 mm wide, depending on the width of the crystal rim.
3. The protective film is removed from the foil immediately before applying it to the crystal; touch the outer (soldered) surface of the foil with bare hands it is forbidden!
4. Also, you can’t put off soldering foil-wrapped rhinestones until tomorrow: the copper will have time to oxidize, and the connections will turn out to be fragile.
5. Upon completion of soldering and thorough washing of flux residues (with a rag with alcohol; then with distilled water), the soldering is copper-plated by applying a thick blue solution of copper sulfate with a brush.
6. The remaining vitriol is washed off under running water. You cannot rub with a brush or even cotton wool, because... The copper film on the solder is very thin.

A small surprise - about New Year's chandeliers and lampshades

New Year is coming, it's time to do it. And - a New Year's chandelier. A chandelier? Yes. Remember how the festive mood drops if the overhead light is turned on in the room with the Christmas tree. No matter what, New Year’s lighting should correspond to the spirit of the holiday. Let's put off lighting technology until serious days; nothing from the festive light will happen to us in a few evenings. It’s time for business, but it’s also time for fun.

Typically, a New Year's chandelier is a Christmas wreath attached to the chandelier in the living room with light bulbs woven into it. But do electrical installation work at altitude in the pre-holiday bustle, even an experienced electrician would not be needed. And what if the Christmas tree is in the nursery, where the chandelier is made of paper? Then you can at least buy inexpensive plastic blanks for Christmas tree balls, a garland with colorless light bulbs, stuff them into the balls, and hang such a heap (on the left in the figure) where it is more convenient.

If the design of an “everyday” chandelier is suitable, you can screw candle lamps into it and decorate it with the same balls or, for example, painted pine cones, on the right there. Or you can try a little and make a New Year's jasmine chandelier with your own hands, as in the video below. New Year is New Year, whatever you say.

Video: DIY jasmine lampshade on the ceiling

A chandelier in a room is not only lighting device. Without exaggeration, we can say that it is the main decoration of the room. Handmade items are considered especially valuable. This allows us to highlight the special taste of the owners of the home, as well as their extraordinary and creative mind. Undoubtedly, this type The work is quite complex and requires increased concentration. But at the same time, when creating decorations for your home, you can find many interesting and extraordinary solutions in it!

This article presents some ideas for decorating a chandelier with your own hands, as well as instructions for them. Everything is written so simply and clearly that anyone can do it at home.

In order to make a chandelier, sometimes the most unusual materials are used. For example, everyone is already familiar with glass or wood, plastic, and so on. But sometimes, when you want something completely “unusual,” wooden skewers, glass wine bottles, jars, and all kinds of things come into play. tree branches, and cardboard, and even straw. You need to choose depending on the idea of ​​the creator and the wishes of the apartment owners. It is also necessary to take into account general interior premises where the finished product is supposed to be placed.

Interesting idea for a chandelier made from plastic spoons

Plastic spoons for disposable meals are one of the simplest and most easily available materials for creating a chandelier for a room. Their advantages are low price, a variety of colors, and such material will last for quite a long time. To create such an extraordinary chandelier, you will need a minimum of investments, both physical and material.

Materials:

• empty bottle drinking water, volume 5 liters;
• plastic spoons (their number depends on the size of the bottle);
• glue for plastic;
• an old chandelier (or rather, a socket from it);
• sharpened knife.

Process of creation:

1. First you need to prepare a plastic bottle for subsequent steps. Remove the label in advance, cut off the bottom, dry well.
2. Then you need to remove the plastic spoons from the packaging and carefully cut off the unnecessary handles with a knife, leaving about 2-3 centimeters above the level of the “scoop”.
3. You need to glue the scoop blanks to the base of the bottle. Apply to the remaining “tail” a large number of glue and press it to the surface (with the convex side of the spoon facing out). It is necessary to cover the entire bottle in a circle until the entire perimeter is occupied by plastic “spoons”. It is advisable to arrange them in a checkerboard pattern and slightly move them together. This will leave fewer “free spots”.
4. You need to remove the cartridge from the old unnecessary chandelier, and then place it in an already glued and dried bottle and fix it to the frame.
5. A decorative bowl can also be made from plastic spoons: “scoops” are glued around the neck of the eggplant.
6. Install and connect the chandelier, check its operation.

Note! Possible option decorative painting or painting spoons in absolutely any color. Thus, your product will look even more beautiful and more original!

Chandelier made of plastic bottles in the shape of leaves

Another unusual option in the interior would be a chandelier made in the shape of leaves. It is created from simple plastic bottles, the variety of colors of which allows you to work in the most unusual colors and embody the most daring ideas.

Process of creation:

1. Cut plastic bottles into blanks shaped like future leaves.
2. For each workpiece, the sheet shape is finally fixed.
3. Using a soldering iron with a thick tip and a one-sided bevel, you need to slightly fuse the sections of each leaf in order to give the future product the greatest effect.
4. In the same way, using a soldering iron, you need to give the workpieces a sheet structure. You need to act extremely carefully and accurately, because you can easily make a hole in the plastic. Such a leaf with outlined veins and slightly fused edges will look complete.
5. Using a hot needle, you need to melt several holes at the “leg” of each leaf in order to attach them.
6. Using thin wire, form branches and screw them to a steel wire frame.

Also great idea There will be the production of a new chandelier in the form of a lampshade for a floor lamp or a lamp for a table. Thus, it will be a great addition to the previous product!

Chandelier with paper butterflies

The most common product option is a chandelier with butterflies. And this is not without reason. Let's start with the fact that this option looks luxurious and expensive, and secondly, its production does not require any special physical costs. Thus, even a child can participate in creating a chandelier.

Process of creation:

1. It is based on either an old chandelier or a similar frame. If you don’t have one, then you can take the simplest wooden or metal rim. If such material is not available, then, as an option, you can take thick wire and make about 2-3 skeins, so that a circle is formed.
2. Cut out butterflies from paper according to the template. You need to take the butterfly template and adjust it to the desired size. The option also looks very unusual when butterflies of several sizes are located on the chandelier (again, depending on desire). Transfer the outlines onto paper and carefully cut out, preferably with a sharpened stationery knife, or small, non-rounded scissors. For the templates themselves, it is better to use a material that is dense, does not become very dirty and does not attract dust. For example, velvet paper is very poorly suited for the product, because in the future you will need to vacuum the chandelier quite often.
3. Take a nylon thread or transparent fishing line and attach the butterflies to it. There are two types of fastening: either piercing the bodies of the butterflies, or gluing them with silicone glue.
4. Next, we attach the threads with butterflies to the base of the frame and decorate it.
5. You can also try interesting option, if you make a wire ball! It should be based on a pendant from a chandelier and placed on it using glue gun several butterfly patterns.

Fabric chandelier

This chandelier is also based on a frame. As in the previous version, either old metal frames or thick wire are suitable for its manufacture.

After you have pre-prepared the base, start cutting out the fabric from which the lampshade will be made in the future. How long the finished product will be depends on your desire, but it is worth considering that the width of the fabric must be the same as the diameter of the frame! Once you finish the pattern, you need to do a fitting.

Another nuance is that the top of the fabric will need to be sewn directly on the frame, which means that it (the frame) must be solid. Otherwise, if it is possible to thread it directly into the fabric, then you should first fold the top edge of the pattern and stitch it, and then iron it. Then we sew a seam on the side of the product.

To prevent the lampshade from losing its shape, you should pay due attention to the material. If the fabric is too light, “airy,” then the bottom of the product should be weighted. You can use cardboard or fishing line for this.

Carefully sewn fringe, lace or braid will look just as beautiful. But do not “overload” the product! The process of creating a fabric chandelier is similar to making a lace chandelier. So you can safely experiment with the materials that are placed on the frame.

Lamp made of threads and a balloon

Materials:

• dense threads, such as wool, cotton, or jute rope - at least 1 meter;
• cartridge;
• petrolatum;
• PVA glue;
• a brush for applying glue and Vaseline (it is advisable that the brush does not fade);
• 1 or 2 pieces balloons(the first in order to work with it, and the second in order to check the finished product, if desired);

Process of creation:

1. Inflate the balloon to a certain size and secure it. Remember that the finished work will exactly follow the outline of the ball! Using a marker, draw a couple of circles at the top and bottom in order to determine the boundaries of thread winding.
2. Using a brush, coat the entire perimeter of the ball with Vaseline.
3. Pour PVA into a plastic container and thoroughly process the threads with it (It is not advisable to apply glue to the entire length of the threads at once! Process them as you wind them around the ball!).
4. Taking into account the boundaries that you drew with a marker, wind the threads around the ball. Do not forget that the future depends on the density with which you wind appearance products.
5. After wrapping, you need to leave the product for a day until it is completely dry; After complete drying, you need to burst the ball and remove it through the holes.
6. Cut a spot in the top and insert the cartridge.
7. To be completely sure that the product is strong, you can insert a balloon into it and inflate it. In a similar way, you can check the flexibility and reliability of the lampshade.

Alternatively, you can paint the structure with a spray can or acrylic paint and attach all sorts of things to it. decorative ornaments, such as butterflies, artificial flowers or beads. Also, a great idea would be to arrange several balls in the form bunch of grapes and bind them together.

Wine bottle chandelier

This version of the chandelier is a little more complex than the previous ones. Making a chandelier this way is quite difficult; the manufacturing process will require care and attention. However, you will like the result!

Materials:

• wine bottle;
• glass cutter;
• sandpaper for sanding edges;
• cartridge;
• electrical wire;
• metal or wooden frame, rim.

Process of creation:

1. First you need to prepare the bottle itself for further manipulations with it. The first step is to draw a straight line around the perimeter at the level you need. This is required in order to cut off the bottom of the bottle using a glass cutter;
2. To avoid cutting yourself on the glass, you need to sand the sharp edges sandpaper;
3. Pull the wire through the neck of the bottle and then connect the socket;
4. Attach the bottle to the frame.

You can also decorate the bottle with all sorts of decorative items, or leave it in its original form. In any case, it will look original and impressive.

The number of products on the frame depends on your desire. You can either leave one bottle or secure four or more bottles at once.

Laserdisc chandelier idea

This idea is great for those who have a large number of laser discs left in the house, but don’t dare throw them away. It’s worth noting right away that manufacturing options and the result can be very different. It all depends on your imagination and creativity!

Materials:

• two round wooden planks different thicknesses, and which are slightly larger in diameter than disks;
• racks made of metal or wood;
• Fluorescent Lamp;
• magnetic switch;
• disks.

Process of creation:

1. Make a hole in a thicker board and install a starter with a switch in it.
2. Then connect it all to the lamp.
3. String disks onto the lamp.
4. Place the stands around the discs and secure the top.

The finished product will delight its owners for a long time, and it does not require special care. It is not advisable to place this type of chandelier in a child’s room so that the child cannot harm himself (only if the chandelier hangs out of reach).

Shabby chic chandelier

To create spectacular lighting in a room, you can also make a chandelier from fabric or beads. The result will be a kind of candelabra or lampshade in the “shabby chic” style.

Materials:

• a ready-made metal or wooden frame (or it can be made from an old hoop, garden basket, thick wire);
• socket and lamp;
• chains and threads for decoration;
• all kinds of beads and seed beads.

Working on such a lampshade is not difficult, but it is a very painstaking task. Such chandeliers usually consist of two or three levels of rings, which are located on top of each other. It all depends on the size of the chosen bases. If you take rings of the same diameter, the finished product will be made in the “modern” style.

One of the important points is that before you start decorating the chandelier, you need to paint and wrap the frames with decorative materials!

The approximate consumption of beads is:

• For the lower part of the lampshade - 16 mm beads, about 15-17 pieces per thread;
• For the upper part of the lampshade - 12 mm beads, about 35 pieces per thread.

Naturally, when stringing beads on a thread, you can increase or decrease their number or the degree of thread tension. But it is still advisable to stock up on materials in excess of the norm.

The essence of the work is to hang threads with beads in a “waterfall” or “cascade” so that they flow downward along the structure.

In order to create the effect of “muting” the light, you can sheathe the frame with thick fabric.

A DIY chandelier will definitely add a fresh touch, originality and beauty to your interior. You will immediately notice how the room will sparkle with new colors, and your guests will sincerely admire your creativity, hard work and original taste!

90 photos of DIY chandelier ideas

It is very difficult to part with your favorite things, especially if they are still in working order, but have become worn out in appearance. Therefore, many try to restore such things to their former luster and freshness through repairs, or even make them even more spectacular.

In the case of table lamp shades, this is more than possible. There are a great many options for updating them and even creating them from scratch. You can come up with your own or use the ideas of designers and just creative people who have already implemented them and shared the results.

How to make a frame for a lampshade

In old table lamps, the frame usually does not undergo such irreversible changes and deformations that it cannot be used to create a new lampshade. But a person may not be satisfied with its shape or size, and then he has to make a new one with his own hands. The question is - how and from what?

The easiest way is to use aluminum or steel wire of such a cross-section that it holds its shape well. The skeleton of the future lampshade is formed from it.

The frame can also be assembled by welding or soldering. When soldering, it is better to use soldering acid instead of rosin.

Advice. Ready-made items can also become the basis for a lampshade. For example, plastic or metal wire waste baskets, wicker vases or plastic bottles. They just need to cut a hole for the cartridge.

Prices for different types of lampshades

Making lampshades with a wire frame

So, there is a frame, you can think about what to dress it up with. The first thing that comes to mind is new clothes from textiles.

Fabric lampshades

To make fabric lampshades it is not necessary to have sewing machine and know how to sew. But you will have to make a pattern in any case. What you need is a sheet of newspaper or whatman paper, scissors and tape.

The newspaper is wrapped around the frame, the joint is secured with tape and the excess is cut off from the top and bottom. Then the paper cap is cut lengthwise and the pattern is transferred to the fabric, leaving allowances for the hems.

The edges of the workpiece are folded inward and ironed. Its dimensions after this operation should remain slightly larger than the newspaper pattern.

We wrap the fabric around the frame and glue the seam or carefully sew it with a needle and thread. We wrap the edges at the top and bottom inward and glue them to the frame.

With tailoring skills, you can make a lampshade of a more voluminous shape. And you don’t have to be tricky with the pattern. You need to cut a rectangle out of fabric according to the height of the frame and the length of the largest circle. This is usually the bottom circle of the frame. Of course, don't forget about seam allowances.

We sew the fabric from the wrong side with the short sides to form a cylinder, the diameter of which exactly matches the diameter of the lower part of the frame. Then we bend and stitch the lower edge and put the fabric cylinder on the lampshade. We assemble its upper part with uniform folds, temporarily securing them with pins, fold them onto the upper circle of the frame and glue them. All that remains is to sew a braid or lace strip to the bottom edge and tie the lampshade with a ribbon.

You can also insert an elastic band into the upper part of the fabric cylinder - the look of the lampshade will be completely different.

Lampshade from an old knitted skirt. Elastic band inserted on top

In the end, you can simply put a children's skirt of a suitable length on the old frame. It can be sewn from any fabric - calico, knitwear, jeans, organza, etc. The main thing is that the color and style should be in harmony with the interior of the room.

Lampshade made from napkins

Crocheted napkins and capes now seem to many to be completely unnecessary, old-fashioned things. Well, or simply not applicable in the interior of an apartment for its intended purpose. But it’s a pity to throw away items knitted by your mother or grandmother. But you can make a lampshade out of them, similar to a fabric one. Only first, all the napkins will have to be sewn into one fabric, the shape and size suitable for covering the frame.

Advice. To metal carcass not noticeable through the openwork fabric, paint it, wrap it with tape suitable color or cover it with paper/cardboard, creating a hard inner layer.

A table lamp with such a lampshade will fit perfectly into a girl's bedroom in the Provence style.

Compare these two photos.

The same fabric is used here, but different finishing techniques. And the second lampshade looks more elegant, richer. The secret is in using not a whole cloth, but strips cut from the fabric and creating the effect of folds.

Instead of one fabric, you can use different ones, alternating stripes by color and width. It’s even more convenient to use ribbons - you don’t need to sew them.

Lampshade made of ribbons with bows

Alternatively, strips or ribbons different color do not sew, but leave the ends hanging down freely.

Ribbons and fabric strips are excellent materials for weaving. Having made the base according to the method described above, it can be intertwined with transverse or diagonal lines.

Lampshades made from braid, yarn, and twine look very original. If the frame has many intersecting ribs, they can be wrapped in different directions.

If the smooth fabric lampshade you have or made yourself is satisfactory in all respects, but lacks some zest, you can always decorate it. Beads, rhinestones, paper flowers and butterflies, fringe, etc. But there is a more original and effective way to decorate lampshades... with wood putty. It is best to use ready-made polymer putty. It comes in white and the color of different types of wood. White is perfectly tinted in any shade.

The technology is extremely simple: a flexible stencil is glued to the lampshade using tape, and then an even layer of putty is applied to it. After it dries, the stencil along with the tape is carefully removed along with the excess putty.

Other types of lampshades

If you don’t want to bother with wire, fabric and paper, you can use completely different materials and techniques for making lampshades. Here are some examples.

To make a lampshade in eco-style, you will need wooden or plastic embroidery hoops, quick-setting glue and slats.

The slats are cut to a length equal to the height of the future lampshade. And they stick to the hoop. That's it, the lampshade is ready. It can be turned into a full-fledged table lamp if several slats are made longer and used as a support.

Any work with wood is always exciting, because it gives you the opportunity not only to show your own imagination, but also to make something that fully suits your needs and tastes. Agree, it’s nice when there is something made by yourself in the house. Read on our website about how to make a wooden box with your own hands.

Lampshades made from disposable spoons

A 5-liter plastic container is most suitable as a frame for such a lampshade. It is this that is used in the proposed master class on making an original lampshade in the shape of a pineapple. But you can take any other container of a suitable size.

Using a sharp knife, cut off the bottom and neck of the bottle, leaving a hole through which the light bulb socket will fit.

We cut the cuttings from the plastic spoons, leaving “tails” 1.5-2 cm long. Paint the convex side of the spoons yellow odorless paint. Acrylic is best.

Apply a drop of hot glue to the cuttings and glue the spoons with the painted side out to the bottom edge of the bottle close to each other.

We glue the second and subsequent rows of spoons overlapping the previous one with an offset, in a checkerboard pattern. There should be no gaps between them.

In this way we cover the entire container.

From thick paper or thin green cardboard, cut out a circle with a hole in the center that matches the hole in the top of the bottle.

Cut the outer edge into large cloves and bend it slightly downwards. Glue it to the lampshade. Cut out long leaves from the same paper and insert them in a bunch into the top hole, having previously installed a cartridge in the lampshade.

Note. Lampshades made from materials that are not resistant to fire or strong heat can only be used with LED or fluorescent lamps.

Using this technique, you can create lampshades in a completely different style. If “Pineapple” will look great in a children’s room, then the lamp, the manufacture of which is shown step by step in the following photos, will decorate the bedroom.

Lampshade "Pineapple" with feathers

Tiffany lampshade made from a plastic bottle

Big plastic bottle can be an excellent basis for making a lampshade that imitates the Tiffany style - multi-colored stained glass mosaic.

The bottle is cut off bottom part. The cut can be smooth or curly. Then a drawing is applied to it and the contours are outlined with a special contour paint of golden or silver color. And after it dries, the plastic inside the contours is painted in different colors.

Lampshade made from paper plates

If your old table lamp has a thick cylindrical shade, you can transform it beyond recognition by using disposable paper plates. Their number is easy to calculate by measuring the circumference of the cylinder: one plate is needed for every centimeter.

Manufacturing instructions are given below.

Bend each plate in half, step back 5 mm from the fold line in both directions and draw two parallel lines.

Apply a ruler to these lines and, with a little force, draw along them with the blunt side of a knife or other pointed (but not sharp!) object.

Fold the plate along the punched lines and glue it to the lampshade using hot glue.

Glue gun prices

Glue gun

Glue the second piece and all subsequent ones close to it and at the same height.

This is what should happen in the end.

This method is known, if not to everyone, then to many. Instructions included.

Let's inflate balloon to the desired size and lubricate it with Vaseline so that the threads soaked in glue do not stick to the rubber. You can also wrap it with thin cling film.

In a jar of PVA glue we make an awl through hole slightly above the bottom.

We thread the needle and pass it through the jar, after which we remove the needle.

We wrap the balloon with thread and glue in any order until we obtain the required winding density. It is better to leave the area around the tail of the ball free so that you can then put the lampshade on the lamp.

We wait for the glue to dry completely and pierce the ball. Before this, the lampshade can be painted with aerosol paint from a can.

We decorate a ball of thread with paper, wire or fabric flowers, if desired, and put it on the lamp.

Video - How to make a beautiful lampshade with your own hands

A very unusual material for decorating a table lamp is metal clasps from tin beer and other cans.

For the first row, they are folded in half and secured to the top ring of the frame lampshade.

For all other locks, cut one ring in half and begin the second row, hooking the lock with the cut ears to two adjacent rings of the first row.

Having reached the bottom ring, the clasps are again bent inward with a hook and hooked to the frame.

These different, but very beautiful and original lampshades can be made from traditional and, it would seem, materials that are not at all intended for this purpose.

Video - Lampshade using origami technique

Agree, a lot depends on the light in the room; compare at least the “cold” hospital light and the “warm” home light. But not everything depends on the lamp: DIY lampshades will help you “domesticate” the light. Only in this article, you will receive complete information on how to make a fashionable lampshade quickly, inexpensively, and beautifully! Read and enjoy!

How to make a lampshade with your own hands

Before choosing a design and starting to create a lampshade with your own hands, let’s look at a few important points. So, pay attention to the following points:

1. The greatest freedom will be provided by the use of energy-saving or LED lamps, since incandescent lamps get very hot and can burn a paper or fabric lampshade.

2. When remaking a finished lamp, try to handle the wires as carefully as possible, and upon completion of work, check their integrity.

3. When choosing a lamp, remember that depending on the color temperature they are often divided into “cold”, neutral and “warm”. For home lamp best choice will become “warm”.

The differences in color temperature are clear. The higher the value on the package (the higher the temperature), the cooler the light the lamp will produce and vice versa.

A little about the frame

For your own lampshade you will need a base. Often it consists of two rings on which a cardboard or plastic backing is attached to hold the shape.

Such frames can be woven from wire using only pliers.

The frame can be bought at a craft store, but since our stores cannot always boast of such a variety, it is worth looking for frames in construction stores.

The simplest solution: the cartridge is held by the neck of a 5-liter bottle.

You can also buy an old lamp at a flea market or make a frame yourself from wire.

Finished cylindrical frame made of hardware store(metal grid).

Green lamp... literally

You can use a special lamp for plants, but a simple “housekeeper” or LED lamp will also work.

Repeating the design with your own hands will not be difficult, especially since it is very easy to change it, based on what materials you have at hand.

The main thing is that hanging version the pot was not too heavy (in a tabletop pot this can be neglected). You also need to insulate the wiring well; you can run it along one of the supporting wires.

10 steps to a fabric lampshade

DIY fabric lampshade: master class

The process of creating a fabric lampshade begins with preparing everything you need so that you don’t have to be distracted by searching for missing parts.

You will need:
- textile;
– masking tape;
– measuring tape and plastic ruler;
– chalk (or other material for marking fabric);
- pencil;
- scissors;
– thick self-adhesive film (from a craft store);
– lower and upper wire rings;
– clothespins-binders for paper;
- PVA glue;
– brush;
– threads;
- paper strip.

1 Step

2 Step

Cut out a rectangle of the required size from the self-adhesive film, and then cut a piece of fabric 5-6 cm larger at the edges. Glue the fabric right side to the table.

3 Step

Select the part of the pattern you want to keep on the lampshade and, using a ruler and something rectangular (like a book), draw cutting lines and corners.

4 Step

Flatten the fabric and begin gluing the film onto it. Do not tear off the entire backing from the very beginning: first separate 4-5 cm and glue them. After this, simultaneously tear off the backing and level the glued part of the film.

5 Step

Attach the lampshade to the frame, starting from the middle, using binders. When you reach the end, turn the lampshade over and start at the other end.

6 Step

Using a pencil, mark the line of contact and label the side that will be at the top. Next, glue the halves of the lampshade together and let them dry.

7 Step

Turn the lampshade over, apply a thin bead of glue to the edge, and insert the wire ring. Immediately secure it with paper clips, let it dry, and then repeat at the other end.

8 Step

9 Step

Also close the seam on the side of the lampshade.

10 Step

Put everything together and enjoy the finished lampshade.

Advice: Using the lampshade given in these instructions as a basis, you can make no less interesting designs eg: the ever-popular thread lamp.

Lampshade – both photo album and map

Marie Darby shared online her success in creating a lampshade - a photo frame. To do this, she writes on her blog, you need a base, for example, like the one in the previous section, or a ready-made lamp with a white lampshade.

You will also need tracing paper (several sheets, you can buy it at handicraft and stationery stores), scissors, glue, pencil, ruler and printer. The result in the photo was obtained from using inkjet, but you can also use laser, the main thing is that it does not “chew” thin tracing paper.

You can make a collage from the photos on your computer using Photoshop or another collage program such as Picassa. You can collage photos by cutting them out with scissors.

Please note: if you are printing with an inkjet printer, allow the ink to dry. You also need to be careful with tracing paper and not bend it, otherwise the mark from the bend will always be noticeable.

In exactly the same way, you can transfer anything to a lampshade: a child’s drawing or a favorite quote, or even a map of your favorite place.

rope sun

Making a popular openwork lampshade is actually easier than ever. You will only need threads (acrylic or natural), glue (PVA or wallpaper), as well as a balloon or ball that can be blown away, and Vaseline.

The inflated ball is smeared with Vaseline (so that the threads do not stick to it) and they begin to wrap it with threads previously soaked in glue. When the structure dries, the ball is deflated and removed. That's it, the lampshade is ready!

Advice: before making a “finish” test, make 2-3 small lamps for testing. Also, immediately mark with a marker a place on the ball where there should be no threads - through it you will need to remove the ball and insert the cartridge.

Do-it-yourself indoor “night sky”

The pattern on the lampshade can be formed in different ways, each having its own advantages. But in terms of originality, few can compete with a perforated lamp.

To make one, you just need to prepare a base on which you will make the first row of holes (outline) with a thin awl. After this, you need to add many smaller holes and secure the perforated blank to the lamp.

How to make a lampshade video:

Knowledge of English is not necessary, everything is clear without words.

As you can see, you don’t need a lot of resources or experience to make a lampshade with your own hands (), but the result can be excellent. And if you involve a male colleague in the business who will help make a good frame, you can consider that the matter is in the bag.