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What to do if the bathtub is no longer presentable, but there is no opportunity or desire to install a new one ( major renovation almost inevitable when replacing)? There are several technologies that allow you to old bath make a new one - update the coating. Restoring a bathtub is possible with your own hands, you just need to choose which specific method you will use.

Methods for restoring a bathtub, their advantages and disadvantages

Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration can be done in three ways:

• painting with special enamel;
• liquid (self-leveling acrylic);
• insert of an acrylic liner (bathtub in the bathroom).

If speak about independently conducting work, then most often the bathtub coating is restored by painting or poured acrylic. It’s just that the cost of an acrylic liner is about 80% of the total amount that companies charge for this procedure, so rarely does anyone want to understand the intricacies. In addition, when self-installation you lose your warranty. However, using this method you can update the bathtub with your own hands.

Enamel painting

Now about the pros and cons of each method. Enamel painting is the most cheap option, but also the most short-lived. This coverage lasts for several years - from 3 to 5. The specific figure depends on the care preliminary preparation surface and paint quality.

The painting process is not the simplest - to obtain a good result, several (at least three) applications are required, and each of them has to be “worked on”, removing sagging, drips, and smoothing out unevenness. All this takes time and patience. But how a budget option, the method is not bad. After the paint begins to peel off, it is removed (heated construction hairdryer, remove with a spatula) and, after treating the surface, the bath can be painted.

The composition of the enamel is very sharp persistent odor, which lasts quite a long time. It is better to work in a respirator, but it is advisable not to open the doors - the paint will dry faster and it will be more difficult to correct.

By brand of paint that is used to paint the bathroom. First of all, this is Tikkurila REAFLEX 50 (Tikkurila Reaflex). Two-component enamel. Not cheap, but high quality. Reviews about its use are positive. In principle, the quality of the coating depends on how accurately the proportions are observed when mixing the components. You can't pour less or more. It will only get worse.

There are other enamels - organosilicon enamels, on which it is written “for baths”. Others cannot be used, as they come into contact with warm water may release harmful substances.

Filling bath

Bathtub restoration using self-leveling acrylic is becoming increasingly popular. This is a two-component composition that is mixed immediately before use. The cost of the set is about $50 (more or less depends on the size of the bowl). As in the previous option, the durability of the coating depends on the quality of surface preparation. And it should not have any dirt, grease stains, and the surface itself must be smooth and rough. The process of applying the composition is simple - it is simply poured in a thin stream from a small container, and it levels itself out. On the walls the layer is thinner, on the bottom it is thicker. An ideal state of affairs for operation. If everything is done correctly, such a coating will last up to 5-7 years, although manufacturers say that the service life is more than 10 years, some even say 15 years.

Filling bathtub - it’s not in vain that they say so. Acrylic is simply poured onto the sides

In addition to durability, this material also pleases with its lack of odor. Or rather, there is a smell, but it is very weak, almost unnoticeable, so it is comfortable to work with.

About materials that can be used to restore a bathtub at home. There are mainly reviews about two brands: Stakril and PlastAll. Both materials have a good reputation (if done correctly). Available on the market a large number of There are cheaper brands of liquid acrylic, but they rarely have hygienic certificates. And without documents it’s better not to take risks.

Bath liner

The advantage of the “bath in a bath” option is the durability of the coating - up to 15 years, but the guarantee is usually given for 2-3 years. However, not everything is so simple with this method. Installing an acrylic liner is both easier and more difficult at the same time. Firstly, there are only so many liners for standard bathrooms, and not everyone has them. Secondly, they cannot be installed on thin-walled metal or “light” cast iron - the metal is thin and moves when loaded, which is why the liner quickly separates from the base and bursts. Since these are the specimens that most often have to be restored, companies simply “forget” about this point.

There are three more negative aspects to using the “bath in a bath” method. They are not necessarily present, but they can be present and lead to damage to the liner, so it is advisable to be aware of them. So, what can negatively affect the service life of the acrylic liner in the bathroom:

• The molded liner has an ideal geometry, but the bathtubs, most often, have deviations. In places of these inconsistencies, cracks usually form.
• Acrylic sits on a special two-component foam. Although it holds the load better than construction material, it can still press down. In these places, voids form, and they lead to the appearance of cracks.
• In the places where the siphon and overflow are installed, two containers are connected. It is very important to carefully seal this joint. Firstly, because water will leak onto the floor, and secondly, it can flow into the voids, bloom there and spread the corresponding “aromas”.

In addition to all the installation nuances, it is important to choose a high-quality liner. And this is very difficult. Plumbing acrylic is expensive. Therefore, the liners are sometimes made very thin or from cheap porous and fragile acrylic, sometimes from coated fiberglass.

The essence of the “bath in a bath” method

The thicker the acrylic layer in the liner, the higher the price. In cheap liners the thickness is very small - 0.5-1 mm, in average quality ones it is 2-3 mm, and it is very difficult to find an liner with 4 mm acrylic, but they are the most durable. When calling companies, ask about the thickness of the liner at the bottom. If they say that it is 5-6 mm or even more, they are deceiving you. They just don’t do that and there’s nothing else to talk about. The second thing you need to inquire about is the presence of a hygiene certificate. Sometimes the inserts are molded from counterfeit material, but it is very short-lived - it cracks after a few months. There are no documents for such goods, although the “leftists” can provide them. But, still... The next stage of quality control is visual. When visiting a company where you plan to purchase a plastic liner for your bathroom, inspect several pieces. They should be perfectly even, and the color should be snowy white. Not greyish, greenish or yellowish. Snow white. No shades. In this case, you can hope that the bathroom he restored will serve for a long time.

Preparation

Preparing the bathtub for restoration is important in any case. Even if you are going to install an insert. There, too, good adhesion (adhesion) to the foam is necessary. And in the case of using enamel or acrylic, preparation plays a very important role.

If you look at the description of the work of companies involved in the restoration of bathtubs, they preparatory stage- remove the drain and overflow, go over the entire surface well with sandpaper and abrasive powder, wash and dry. If there are any, repair the chips with automotive putty. Sometimes they add that it is necessary to degrease the surface with a solvent. That's all, then enamel is applied or acrylic is poured. The entire work takes a maximum of 3-4 hours.

When studying reviews about self-restoration The picture emerges differently - there are many more stages and preparation often drags on for a day. There are two ways. The first is to remove the top layer using a grinder and flap sandpaper (remove the top layer of enamel, and do not clean it down to the metal). After removing the dust, you can paint.

The second way is to remove contaminants using acids, alkalis, and solvents. Both methods have been tried and work equally well. It is up to you to choose what is better - dust and sound when processed with an angle grinder, or odors when processed with chemicals.

Here's what to do before restoring enamel using chemical method cleansing:

Application of self-leveling acrylic

Restoring a bathtub using self-leveling acrylic is perhaps the most easy way update it (albeit not the cheapest), you just need to know a few subtleties.

The first point concerns the thickness and temperature of the material. For a normal polymerization process, a temperature of 22-26°C is required. To liquid acrylic spreads normally, it should stand in a warm room for at least a day. During this time, the composition will reach the required temperature. There is another option - put it in a bucket or basin with warm water (not hot, but warm). Only in this case is there a chance of overheating. Then it will be too fluid, the layer on the bathtub will be much thinner than required. So we try to bring it exactly to the required temperature.

The second point is the absence of any drafts. Good masters work in indoors. They even sand the enamel with a grinder or treat it with acid. They do this in respirators, which is what we advise you to do. But they need to hurry, because for them time is money, and the owner has nowhere to rush. If you are doing the restoration of the bathroom coating for yourself, you can do all dusty or “smelly” work at open doors and ventilation turned on, then close the doors and wait until the temperature reaches the desired limit of 22°C or slightly higher.

The third point is to prevent the ingress of water droplets and dust. While the room is heating up, you need to wrap all the taps with polyethylene, completely eliminating the possibility of water getting in. In addition, it is necessary to wrap the shelves, heated towel rail or other devices and objects that are located above the bathtub with fabric. This is necessary to prevent the formation of condensation, drops of which can damage the surface of the uncured filling bath. Also: during work and polymerization (from two to five days), the doors must be kept closed. This way you maintain the required temperature and also reduce the possibility of dust, debris and insects getting onto the surface. It’s very disappointing when a midge or fly lands on a beautiful white surface. It is almost impossible to remove it without leaving traces. After complete hardening, you will have to sand it and fill it again, but the mark usually remains - there is not enough qualifications.

When the temperature in the bathroom has risen to 22°C, film or paper is placed under the outer edge of the bathroom, and a clean container is placed under the drain hole into which excess material will be drained. If the edge of the bathroom is tiled, so as not to get dirty, it is covered with masking tape, making sure that the edge is smooth.

For further work you will need a regular or rubber spatula about 10 cm wide, plastic container volume 500-600 ml (a beer glass will do). Open the jar with the acrylic heated to the desired temperature, carefully remove the remaining acrylic from the lid with a spatula and place it in the jar. Then the material is also cleaned from the walls. All walls must be clean so that there is no acrylic left on them that is not mixed with the hardener.

The hardener that comes with the acrylic is poured into the jar and mixed for 15 minutes. You can stir with a planed wooden stick or a drill attachment at low speed. It’s safer to use a stick - you’re guaranteed not to damage the can or splash the material. If you decide to use a drill, the nozzle should not have burrs or sharp protrusions, and the speed should be as low as possible. When stirring, work the bottom and edges well.

Leave the stirred naive bath acrylic for 10 minutes, then stir again for 5 minutes. You must work either without a shirt or in clothes that will not touch the edges of the bathtub.

We put the jar in the bath, take a container, pour the composition into it from the jar. We begin to pour from the glass onto the side with far edge bathroom, going around it on three sides. The composition slowly flows down, enveloping the surface, and is distributed in an even layer.

It is impossible to pour onto the side exactly under the wall, and the edge looks ugly. Take a spatula and carefully distribute the composition, covering the entire surface. It will level itself out.

Having poured three sides along the side, we begin to pour just above the place where the old coating is visible. We pass again on three sides. Usually two or three passes are enough to cover the entire surface; in some places you can make slight adjustments with a spatula, directing the material to the desired place.

Fill the near side last. It starts to drip, so work carefully. The process is the same. First at the top, then a couple of times a little lower.

The finishing touches. We move the corner of the spatula along the bottom of the bathtub in a zigzag motion. This will help distribute the composition evenly and avoid sagging. Finally, use a spatula to remove any drops that have hung there from the outer edge of the edge (just run the spatula blade along the edge).

The bath is left for 48 hours. After this, you can remove the tape, film, paper that was placed around. That's it, the restoration of the bathtub with your own hands is completed, but you can use it in another three days.

This is a bathtub “before” and “after” restoration with poured acrylic

Enameling a bath at home

About good compositions for enameling it was described above, so it is advisable to use them. There are instructions for use on the can, but the practical rules are the same as for regular painting. Only the preparation is unusual, but it has already been written about.

Some companies suggest priming the surface before applying enamel to the bathtub. If there is such an opportunity, this should be done. The primer is applied in the same way as enamel, after drying (the period is indicated on the can), sanded until smooth, then cleaned of dust, washed, and dried. Next, the enamel is applied.

To distribute the composition, you can use a good natural bristle brush or a small foam roller. To prevent bristles from coming out of the brush, soak it in water for a day and remove everything that comes out with your hands. There are no problems with the roller.

A hardener is poured into the main composition. Measure exactly as recommended, no more, no less. Stir well, paying special attention to the bottom and walls. When using a roller, some of the enamel is poured onto the bottom of the tub - this makes it easier to work with. Use a brush to take the composition from the jar. They try to apply the enamel or primer evenly, without leaving unpainted areas or streaks.

After priming, sanding is required, followed by cleaning from dust, and after applying enamel, you need to look at the results. If everything is smooth, you can stop there. If appearance you are not satisfied, you need to sand it again. smoothing out the unevenness and painting again. Sometimes up to 4 layers are necessary.

Self-installation of acrylic liner (insert)

Restoring a bathroom using this technology has its own peculiarity: if the side of the bathtub is tiled, it must be removed. Not the most pleasant moment. You can do without removing the tiles if the side of the bathroom protrudes from underneath it by at least 1 cm. Then the liner can be trimmed along the edge. Cut it with a grinder or jigsaw along the marked line

When removing tiles, they are trimmed along the wall using a grinder with diamond blade. Then, using a puncher, the edging is gradually beaten off. Next, remove the siphon, clean the drain and overflow holes from dirt. We measure their position in the bathroom - the location must be transferred to the liner. The match must be perfect. In the marked places, holes are drilled using a crown of the appropriate diameter placed on a drill.

Let's proceed directly to installing the acrylic liner:

• In the bathtub, around the drain and overflow holes, apply a solid strip acrylic sealant. We don't skimp on the sealant - it will prevent leaks.

  

• Using special foam (FOME-PRO) we apply stripes to the surface of the bathtub. On the bottom - 4-5 pieces lengthwise and transverse stripes in increments of 5-7 cm. On the side surfaces, with an approach to the side, there are three stripes in the corners, and on the sidewalls they make a cage with a pitch of 5-7 cm. Two stripes are laid on the side. In general, the foam should be distributed evenly.

  

  At the bottom we make a “mesh” of special foam

  

  

• We insert the liner from above, trying not to displace the foam on the sides. You need to lower it in the center, carefully.

  

• Smooth the liner along the entire length of the sides, walls and bottom. The bottom must be pressed especially carefully.
• Silicone will come out of the drain holes. We delete it.
• Special grates are installed on the drain and overflow - they have a special fastening, since the thickness of the bathtub has become much larger.
• Filling the bath cold water, leave for 8-12 hours - the time of foam polymerization.

  

• We install the sides. They are placed on polyurethane foam, the joints are sealed with sealant.
• The bath is ready.

Change cast iron bath- a rather labor-intensive and economically expensive process. Therefore, it is better to use the services of specialists who will restore the product, extending its service life. The company is engaged in restoring bathtubs using effective methods.

We offer cast iron bathtub restoration services at the best price in Moscow

We have been renovating old cast iron bathtubs since 2003. Our company fulfills orders quickly and efficiently. A cast iron bowl can be updated in several ways. We offer services:

Acrylic liner;

Self-leveling bath;

Enameling.

Each of them has its own specific advantages. For repairing a cast iron bathtub, the most suitable coating is liquid acrylic, which is also called a “watering bathtub”. This technology consists of applying special means onto the surface of the bowl. It dries evenly and forms a glossy snow-white surface with a service life of more than 10 years.

Tsugunov Anton Valerievich

Reading time: 4 minutes

Over time, any plumbing fixtures wear out and lose their original appearance. Rust, chips, scratches, cracks, loss of shine and whiteness are the inevitable consequences of daily use and improper care. Do-it-yourself bathtub restoration can restore a decent appearance to old plumbing fixtures. In order for the bathtub renovation to take place with at the lowest cost means and effort, you need to have a good understanding of the algorithm for this procedure at home, understand how to restore a bathtub, how to paint the inside of the bathtub, and what products to choose.

There are three ways to restore your bathtub yourself. Depending on its initial state, you can choose one of them:

1. Enamelling.
2. Restoration using liquid acrylic.
3. Installing the liner.

Bathtub enameling

Enameling a bathtub with your own hands is a feasible procedure for any owner. To understand how to restore the enamel of a bathtub, you need to pay attention to the condition of the container.

Repair of cast iron or steel bath using enamel is justified if there are no deep chips and cracks. Otherwise, enamel, even applied in 2–4 layers, will not hide serious damage.

How to restore a cast iron bathtub yourself at home? When choosing what to paint the inside of the bathtub with, preference should be given to high-quality epoxy enamel from trusted manufacturers, guided by the following criteria:

• Selecting the method of applying enamel: brush, roller, aerosol or pour-on method. The most acceptable are application by brush or pouring, since a roller can impart an unnecessary porous texture, and aerosol spraying can only be used in case of repair of individual areas.
• Complete set for coating restoration. It is convenient to purchase a kit that includes everything you need for repairs - enamel, auxiliary components, tools for application and compositions for preparing the bathtub.

Important! High-quality epoxy enamel, due to its thick consistency, is capable of creating a smooth, flat surface and repair small chips. But it is worth understanding that do-it-yourself repair Baths at home are inferior to the industrial method of applying enamel: there may be a change in the color of the new enamel, increased vulnerability to shocks and chips, and limitations in care products.

Self-enamelling of a bathtub occurs in two stages: preparatory work and application of enamel.

Applying enamel

How to restore the enamel of a bathtub becomes clearer after reading the instructions for the purchased enamel composition. Important points here are the following:

• Preparation of the composition. Following the instructions, prepare the enamel by combining the right proportions active ingredient and hardener.
• Coating with the first layer of enamel. Thin layer cover the surface with enamel using a hard wide brush, starting from the top, gradually descending deeper into the bowl. You can especially carefully walk along the bottom of the bathtub and the drain as the most worn places.
• Applying a second layer of enamel. A new enamel layer is applied after some time specified in the instructions. After this, it can be left to dry for 15 minutes.
• Correction of leaks. All detected enamel stains must be smeared with a brush, moving up and down and from side to side. This must be done quickly before the enamel dries.
• Reapplying enamel. To achieve a more reliable result, increase the strength of the enamel and protect against new chips, a cast iron or metal container can be painted with one or two more layers of enamel.

How to restore the enamel of a bathtub if the chips are deep? It is necessary to repair the chips with putty, polish and degrease. All chips and cracks must be carefully repaired:

• Using sandpaper soaked in water, polish the edges of the chip;
• degrease cracks with solvent or white spirit;
• dry the surface;
• apply enamel.

After enameling, the bath should dry for 7–8 days. Proper care behind the bathtub should avoid the use of abrasive detergents.

Restoration using liquid acrylic

Repairing a bathtub with liquid acrylic is an easier process at home than enameling. Acrylic is resistant to chemical and mechanical stress and is unpretentious in work. Using liquid acrylic you can get a beautiful smooth surface, resistant to temperature changes and hard water.

Because of the way the acrylic is applied, this method is sometimes called "pour bath". Do-it-yourself self-filling bathtub - suitable economical way renewal of cast iron products.

Acrylic is often used trademark“Stakryl” is a two-component high-density enamel, including a base and a hardener.

Covering a bathtub with acrylic yourself consists of the following steps:

1. Surface preparation. This process is similar to preparing for enameling: you need to clean the bathtub from the old coating, degrease it, and seal the cracks.
2. Application of acrylic. Having combined the components according to the instructions, pour acrylic from a convenient container in a thin stream onto the side of the bathtub, pushing it under the edge of the tile. The acrylic layer should be approximately 4–6 mm and flow down to the middle of the container. Moving along the side, you need to pour acrylic evenly. After applying acrylic along the outer edge, continue to pour it into the middle of the container, gradually narrowing the circles and moving in a spiral. The remaining mixture flows into the prepared container through the drain.
3. Drying. Liquid acrylic can dry from 6 to 24 hours. But it’s still better not to rush to use the updated bathroom right away, but wait a few days.

Restoration using an acrylic liner

The third method of repair is to install a liner or “bath within a bath.” It is impossible to make an insert at home; it is made industrially and is an insert that follows the shape of the bath itself. It's easy and quick way repair the bath yourself. But it also has disadvantages:

• Installation requires removal of the bottom row of tiles to secure the bezel of the insert.
• Inability to repeat the exact shape of a cast iron bathtub with a liner. This is explained by the fact that cast iron is a complex material for molding and has different depressions and protrusions, which, when installing the liner, provoke the formation of voids. All this negatively affects the quality new bath.

The main defects in the bathtub coating include cracks, scratches and chips. Damage occurs after careless installation of furniture, plumbing fixtures and heavy objects falling into the bathing bowl. Calling a professional to fix problems won’t be cheap, so it would be nice to learn how to repair a cast iron bathtub yourself, don’t you agree?

We will help you resolve this issue. The article provides detailed instructions for removing chips, small and deep scratches, and also describes effective methods restoration of cracks. By studying the material, you can restore the attractiveness of a cast iron bowl and extend the life of the bathtub.

Using multi-component cleaning products, cleaning the contaminated surface with a stiff brush, careless handling metal objects during repairs - all this leads to the formation of shallow scratches.

Such scratches must be eliminated immediately, since the penetration of moisture and caustic chemicals into the resulting gap leads to the formation of rust, the proliferation of moisture-loving microorganisms and an increase in the size of the scratch. Which will lead to further destruction of the bathtub surface.

Shallow scratches include damage that does not expose metal. These minor damages can be repaired even without priming the surface.

Methods for restoring cracks

Cast iron bathing bowls have become popular due to their high wear resistance and durability. But even such durable products have defects in the form of enamel chips, corrosion or cracks.

The appearance of a crack as a result of plumbing work or natural changes water and air temperatures become one of the reasons for replacing the bathtub. In some cases, it is possible to repair the defect.

Methods for eliminating a crack in a cast iron bathtub base: using cold welding, by applying epoxy resin, soldering with lead-tin solder.

Option #1 - cold welding

At the first stage, the bath is degreased and cleaned with Pemolux or soda. If there is rust around the edges and inside the crack, it is necessary to use a harsh abrasive such as Sanox or Chistin Sanitary.

The anti-corrosion agent is applied to the surface of the crack in a thick layer, wetted and left on the damage for 20 minutes. After washing off the cleaning agent, locking micro-holes with a diameter of 3 mm are drilled along the visible edges of the crack on one or both sides, depending on the location.

After degreasing, the surface is sanded with a grinder, electric drill with a grinding wheel or abrasive. Not only the crack is cleaned, but also the enamel around it, 1.5-2 cm wide.

A grinding wheel removes the coating right down to the metal. At the site of the crack, a hollow is ground out along the entire length of the fault.

After sanding, the tank coating is cleared of saw cuts and dirt. When the bathroom is dry, the crack area must be degreased with solvent, alcohol or cologne.

Pour into the bowl for half an hour hot water, after draining it, the surface is dried with a hairdryer. Now the treated coating defect can be covered by cold welding.

You can use the bath no earlier than after 24 hours. To even out the tone of the coating, the crack area can be painted with two-component acrylic or epoxy enamel.

Option #2 – epoxy resin

The process of preparing a surface for applying epoxy resin is practically no different from the technology for preparing a bath for applying cold welding.

Scheme of work:

• cleansing and degreasing;
• grinding and turning of grooves;
• additional degreasing.

After finishing preparatory work it is necessary to prepare epoxy resin or epoxy-based putty. A layer of epoxy resin is applied to the crack site, fiberglass cloth is applied on top, and adhesive mounting material is applied again.

After the structure has dried, it is necessary to repeat the procedure: epoxy - fiberglass - epoxy. The result should be a patch above the enamel level; if not, then the procedure is repeated a third time.

Epoxy resin – the best remedy to eliminate cracks in the bathtub. The liquid texture of the material allows it to penetrate into every microcrack, providing increased adhesion and protection of the metal.

Option #3 – soldering the crack

If you have soldering skills, you can solder small crack V cast iron bath. This requires thorough cleaning and freeing of the metal from the enamel.

Soldering is done with a 100-200-watt soldering iron using lead-tin solder and a special flux for steel and aluminum.

This method of solving a problem takes time and skill. The seam will not last long, but it will be suitable for temporarily fixing the problem.

To extend the attractiveness and life of a renovated bathtub, it is necessary to properly. To clean the surface, do not use hard brushes, which can damage the smooth enamel.

Conclusions and useful video on the topic

For reliable adhesion of materials and durability of the coating, it is necessary to follow a clear sequence of preparatory and restoration work:

High-quality repair of a cast-iron bathtub means careful restoration of the most important plumbing fixture in the apartment.

Restoration of a damaged surface is possible as a result of the “jewelry” work of a master. The result of painstaking work and many hours of waiting will be a bath without visible chips, scratches and cracks, which will last for another ten years.

Share with readers your experience of restoring damaged enamel of a cast-iron bathtub and carrying out restoration work. Please leave comments, ask questions about the topic of the article and participate in discussions - the feedback form is located below.

It’s no wonder that cast iron bathtubs are extremely popular among buyers. Even though the market is flooded with acrylic and steel taxes, cast iron models not only do not go out of fashion, but also strengthen their position. The reason for this demand is quite simple - a cast iron bathtub is durable, and at the same time it retains heat well. However, over time, the coating of a cast iron bathtub wears out and chips, stains and cracks appear on it. In such a situation, there can only be two options for solving the problem - restoring the enamel on a cast-iron bathtub or buying a new one.

If we talk about purchasing, then it is worth considering a number of points that significantly affect the price of the issue, namely:

• In addition to the cost of a new bath, dismantling should be taken into account old model, and its disposal;
• the costs of delivery, transportation and loading of the purchased bath significantly increase its final cost;
• restoration of cast iron bathtubs allows you to avoid such issues as installation and connection, because when restoring the enamel you will not have to overpay for installation and dismantling.

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs

If you are not used to wasting money and time, you will certainly be interested in such a service as restoring cast iron bathtubs. Modern technologies And innovative materials They allow you to quickly return the bathtub to its radiant appearance and presentability without any special expenses.

Our advantages

High-quality materials from Germany direct from the manufacturer

The material is non-toxic, odorless! Hardening - 20 hours

We work without prepayment, under contract. Responsible approach

Experienced craftsmen. We have been restoring bathtubs for over 10 years

Warranty up to 5 years! Material service life 15 years

Prompt order fulfillment. Technical support

Price for restoration of cast iron bathtubs

Bath 120 cm.

• German quality.
• Drying time: 20 hours.
• Service life 15 years!

RUB 3,800

3,500 rub.

Bath 150 cm.

• German quality.
• Drying time: 20 hours.
• Service life 15 years!

4,000 rub.

3,700 rub.

Bath 170 cm.

• German quality.
• Drying time: 20 hours.
• Service life 15 years!

4,200 rub.

RUB 3,900

Restoring enamel on a cast iron bathtub

Restoration of cast iron bathtubs in Moscow is one of the services offered by our company. Even if your bathtub has completely lost its original appearance, do not rush to look for a replacement. A unique technology for restoring enamel on a cast iron bathtub will transform it, eliminating the need for an expensive purchase.

By contacting us, you can be sure that:

• all work on restoring a cast iron bathtub will be carried out high level;
• You will be provided with a guarantee for all types of services provided;
• the quality of work will not cause any complaints;
• the cost of restoration will not hit your pocket.

Call us and make sure that restoring the enamel on your bathtub is quick, simple and very profitable!

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