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Owners of summer cottages and country houses. When a city dweller hears the word “cellar,” he certainly imagines a deep hole in the ground. While in rural areas It’s not at all uncommon to find an above-ground cellar - an excellent alternative to traditional storage buried in the ground.

Such a structure is distinguished not only by its large capacity, but also by an optimal microclimate, which allows you to keep food fresh for several months. And building it with your own hands is quite simple. The cost of construction is also quite low compared to the underground option.

A ground or roof cellar can be built on any site, including one with a high groundwater level. At the same time, the cellar, like any other outbuilding You can decorate it beautifully, and thereby make your site even more attractive. But first things first.

Choosing a location on the site

The durability of an above-ground cellar and the safety of the products in it depend precisely on the correctly chosen location of the building. Construction should be carried out in a dry (preferably elevated) place so that the groundwater level is 50-60 cm below the bottom of the storage facility.

It is better to choose a place for construction on a hillock.

If the water is very close, you should first create a cushion of sand and gravel under the bottom of the storage. It's also easy to do it yourself. Due to drainage, it will be possible to avoid water leakage into the room.

Well, now it’s time to decide on the type of this very storage.

Features of above-ground storage facilities

The main difference between cellars from each other lies in a single indicator - location relative to the soil level. Above ground cellar it is constructed entirely on the surface, in contrast to underground ones, which are buried half or completely into the ground.

Ground cellars are:

1. Free-standing, that is, erected as an autonomous structure.
2. Wall-mounted. In this case, one of the walls of the cellar is a wall already existing building: barn houses, etc. An above-ground wall cellar will not be dissonant with the surrounding landscape.

Despite the external differences, both construction options have undeniable advantages:

• They occupy a small area of ​​the site.
• They completely eliminate flooding.
• Excellent functionality at any time of the year with absolute energy independence.
• Ease of use due to relatively large sizes cellars, unlike conventional household refrigerators.

But, of course, as in any other structure, some disadvantages can be noticed here:

There are three main types of above-ground storage structures.

Regular storage shed with embankment

This is the simplest structure. It looks more like a hut, and boards or logs are used to build it. Moreover, it is not at all necessary to buy new ones, because on each site there will be previously used building materials.

Scheme of construction of a vegetable storehouse.

To build such a cellar with your own hands, you only need to perform a few operations:

1. Sanded logs with a diameter of no more than 25 cm should be covered with bitumen or burned to a height of 50-60 cm, which will double their service life.
2. Along the perimeter of the future building, dig the blanks with the processed edge into the ground. Tie the upper ends tightly together using long poles. Thus, a complete structure is obtained.
3. Make a sheathing from a “slab” and a roof from boards.
4. Cover the structure with roofing felt, that is, create the necessary waterproofing.
5. Arrange thermal insulation: sew up the end side in 2 rows of boards and lay a layer of roofing material between them.
6. Cover (embank) with peat soil, which retains heat well. Sow any low-growing or trailing plants.
7. On the north side, make an entrance with an insulated door and a canopy over it.
8. Dig a not very deep ditch along the entire perimeter of the constructed cellar to create protection from the ingress of water.
9. Arrange ventilation: the hood will serve wooden box, equipped with a control valve and a pair of pipes: exhaust (under the ceiling) and flow, located 50 cm above the floor level.

This is what a storage shed might look like from the outside.

The optimal dimensions of the storage shed are 4x8 meters. Its service life is about 10 years.

Important! The edges of the roof should hang almost to the ground. Thus, the constructed cellar should externally imitate a hut. And the snow that falls in winter will act as a natural insulation.

There is also a collapsible storehouse model - for those who do not want to clean out their vegetable storage every year. As a rule, it is erected in early autumn and dismantled in the spring. However, after this the soil should be dug up to the depth of a spade bayonet and treated with a 5% solution copper sulfate. That is, disinfect the soil. The service life of such a cellar can also reach 10-12 years.

Cellar without embankment

A cellar built entirely above ground level, like a conventional outbuilding.

It is quite simple to build such a storage facility with your own hands, having some construction skills. You just need to follow the sequence of work:

1. Make markings for the future above-ground cellar and remove the turf. Dig a hole no more than 50-60 cm deep, and collect the earth in a pile (it will still be needed). Then, level and thoroughly compact the prepared area.
2. Arrange a drainage cushion of expanded clay, fine gravel or coarse sand, that is, equip the cellar with the necessary waterproofing.
3. Create reliable protection from rodents: place a layer of 10-12 cm of well-soaked and kneaded clay on the prepared pillow.
4. Lay (drown) red bricks flat into it. Moreover, the gap between them should be minimal.
5. Lay out the side walls with bricks (place them on edge). The binding solution is a mixture of sand, clay and lime. In this case, the masonry should rise above the ground level by the bayonet of a shovel.
6. Make the ceiling and walls: to build an above-ground cellar you will need fairly thick boards (forty or fifty gauge). They should be sewn in 2 rows, laying each thermal insulation material(expanded clay, polystyrene foam, moss, etc.).
7. Cover with roofing felt finished walls- this will avoid the occurrence of unwanted drafts in the vegetable storage.
8. On one of the end sides of the above-ground cellar you built with your own hands, build a manhole with internal and external doors. When severe cold occurs, insulation must be laid between them. It is also necessary to build a small vestibule to promote more reliable thermal insulation of the storage facility. Install a ventilation pipe on the same side.
9. Build a roof: it can be single or gable. Any material will serve for it. roofing material: slate or roofing felt.
10. Dig along the perimeter of a self-built above-ground cellar drainage ditch up to 50 cm deep and equip a blind area (1 m wide) with a slight slope from the storage. This will protect it from flooding.

Ground wall cellar

A good solution that saves land area is to build a cellar near load-bearing wall Houses. Moreover, with minimal material costs (subject to doing the work yourself).

Scheme of construction of a wall storage facility.

The work order is as follows:

1. Mark the perimeter of the future building (its size is selected individually).
2. Lay out the walls of the storage facility: the material can be burnt brick or monolithic concrete; The masonry is done in 1 brick using sand-cement mortar in a 3x1 ratio. Internal and external walls must be thoroughly plastered with cement mortar.
3. Apply 2 layers of bitumen grease outside the cellar, that is, create reliable waterproofing.
4. Make a floor - thoroughly level the earthen surface, clean it and complete concrete base no more than 20 cm thick.
5. After the concrete has completely hardened (after 7-10 days), pour cement-sand mortar 5-6 cm thick, that is, to finally create a floor in the cellar. At the same time, in order to avoid the occurrence of unnecessary stresses in the building, all concrete works should be done in one day. This way the mass will harden evenly over the entire area.
6. Build multi-layer roof using slab, clay and 2 layers of roofing material.
7. Fill it with dry (preferably fertile) soil and sow it with low-growing perennials.
8. Along the entire perimeter of a self-built above-ground cellar, make a blind area with a slight slope away from the building and dig a shallow (20-25 cm) groove to drain rain or melt water.
9. Equip with shelves and all kinds of necessary containers for storing vegetables and home canning.

Important! You should not neglect any of the systems (waterproofing, ventilation, insulation, drainage), since they are all equally important, interconnected and support each other.

Any outbuilding can be beautifully decorated.

It should be remembered that best time for the construction of a cellar, this is summer, when the level of groundwater (underground) water is lowest.

Thus, an above-ground cellar built according to all the rules with your own hands will bring only benefit and satisfaction to its owners for many years.

A small cellar near the house creates an atmosphere of comfort and habitability on the site. It is not at all difficult to build, and your efforts will be fully rewarded every autumn and winter. A typical cellar design involves a small recessed room made of stone and concrete, covered with an earthen rampart.

Natural conditions allow you to store fruits, vegetables, preserves, as well as homemade wine or beer in it. The modest size of the cellar is compensated by a large number of shelves and racks, the placement of which will be helped by a preliminary floor plan. From the outside, the cellar is designed in accordance with the tastes of the owners and can be very harmoniously integrated into the landscape.

The cellar is considered an agricultural outbuilding, so no special permits are required for it. But if the pit crosses a heating main, water supply pipes and other important engineering systems, it is better to hire a contractor and draw up a plan for future construction.

Cellar construction

There are above-ground, shallow and completely buried cellar structures. Traditionally, the cellar is dug into a natural hill. If there is no such elevation on the site, the storage facility can be built on flat surface and create a hill using the earth dug from the pit.

The main room is preceded by a vestibule with steps. In very cold climates, a second door is installed at the bottom (at the base of the stairs) to further protect the cellar from drafts. Sometimes the storage is divided into several chambers, creating optimal conditions to maintain the required temperature and humidity for different products. In small storage facilities, supplies are arranged according to height: the lower the shelf, the colder it is.

Storage diagram - side view.

Regardless of which construction plan the owner chooses, the basis of any cellar is the soil on the site. The design of the cellar and its depth depend on the groundwater level. But even a slight deepening of the room gives a difference of 5-10 degrees compared to the average summer temperature.

It is important that the cellar is protected by shade; especially those parts of the structure that are not covered by an earthen embankment. The entrance door should face north or northeast. The sun only shines on this side morning hours. Consequently, the cellar will maintain a cool temperature even on the hottest days.

The optimal cellar size for one family is 6-7 square meters. m. You can make a more spacious storage room, but the costs of construction and subsequent maintenance of the cellar will also increase. It is better to spend money on high-quality waterproofing and ventilation systems, because the safety of products, their freshness and taste depend on this.

Storage layout - end view.

Laying the foundation

For construction, choose a cleared place without a pond or trees nearby.

1. The dimensions of the pit on each side should be 20-30 cm larger than the desired cellar area, depending on the expected thickness of the walls.
2. The foundation is laid at a depth of at least 0.3 m. It is important that the groundwater level is 0.5 m below the base of the cellar.
3. Formwork is made around the perimeter of the pit to prevent the earth from crumbling.
4. The foundation pillars in the corners are installed on thin concrete 10 cm high and filled with M200 grade concrete.

Waterproofing the floor is done in one of two ways:

1. The bottom of the pit is covered with a layer of sand and crushed stone or broken brick. You can fill the crushed stone with hot bitumen, but in a dry area and with a slight depth this is not necessary.
2. In a damp area, the base is covered river sand. Placed overlapping on top construction film or roofing felt. The material is glued with bitumen, and sand is added on top to the level of the floor without cladding.

Walling

When building in damp, heaving-prone soil, the cellar walls are made of M350 reinforced concrete. This design scheme is one of the most popular. An alternative to concrete is brick, natural or fake diamond. But these materials are recommended for use on drier soils.

Wall construction process:

1. To pour a concrete wall, formwork is made and a reinforcement mesh with cells of 40x40 cm is laid.
2. Concrete is poured in layers and compacted well.
3. The vertical reinforcement that remains on top will serve to connect the walls to the ceiling.
4. The formwork should be removed only after 3-4 weeks. This is exactly how much concrete needs to harden so that work can continue.

Construction of vestibule and steps

Cellar structures with a buried foundation consist of a small vestibule and a main storage area. The room with shelving is preceded by a stationary staircase, which can be separated from the cellar by a second door. The air in the vestibule serves for thermal insulation and maintains the desired microclimate in the main storage facility.

When creating a cellar plan, you need to think about the number of steps, as well as the height concrete base stairs, minus facing material. The staircase is installed on thin concrete 10 cm high. The width of each step must be at least 20 cm.

To pour concrete stairs:

1. The roofing felt flooring is connected to the waterproofing of the walls.
2. Wooden formwork is being made.
3. For the base of the stairs, concrete grade M250 is used.
4. At the bottom there is a small well for precipitation, covered with a grate.
5. The floor, stairs, and sometimes the walls of the cellar are tiled.

A preliminary diagram of shelves and racks at this stage of construction will help make all the necessary holes for fastenings.

Concrete stairs and a small drainage hole in front of the entrance.

Upper floor

Ventilation pipes leading to the roof.

Layout plan ventilation pipes may vary depending on size and . Most often, air is vented through the roof, but sometimes vents are made in the wall.

For supply and exhaust ventilation system you'll need two plastic pipes with a diameter of 80–100 mm. The temperature is adjusted using dampers.

Principles of ventilation design:

1. The exhaust pipe is located at the highest point of the cellar under the ceiling.
2. The supply pipe can be located anywhere. Its lower inlet should be slightly above the floor, where it accumulates cold air.
3. Both pipes are led out, guiding them using fittings.
4. Gaps in the wall around ventilation pipes are covered with construction foam.
5. The external outlets of the pipes are protected from precipitation with the help of canopies.

Principle supply and exhaust ventilation is that cold air is heavier and it accumulates at the bottom. As soon as it gets colder outside than in the cellar, warm air leaves through the exhaust pipe, and colder air enters through the supply pipe. The air temperature changes even within one day, due to which there is constant air circulation. When the temperature drops below freezing, one or both dampers on the ventilation pipes should be closed.

You can also do ventilation ducts made of concrete. When the cellar is completely built, a hole is made in the ceiling. Using formwork and reinforcement, it is formed concrete pipe. Waterproofing is done with roofing felt and fine expanded clay powder.

Facade decoration

The technical requirements for the facade are such that the door must fit tightly to the frame, preventing cold and drafts from entering the room. If the cellar is very small, without a vestibule, and the shelves are located immediately at the entrance, you can make a double door, divided in half horizontally. The owners will be able to take food by opening only the upper compartment of the door, while the cold air that accumulates below will remain indoors.

Depending on the construction budget, the front wall of the cellar is lined with tiles or stone, just like inner part storage facilities. The hill can be incorporated into the site plan by adding lighting and a paved path. A patch of soil in front of the entrance is laid out with paving stones and decorated with moisture-loving plants.

For storing homemade preserves and vegetables grown in the country or personal plot, three types of premises are used: completely buried (including basements), semi-buried and above ground. If everything is done correctly during the construction process, then optimal conditions will be met in any of the 3 storage facilities - darkening, fresh air and low temperature (from 2 to 7 °C). The purpose of our article is to explain how to build a cellar on the street with your own hands, choosing the most suitable design.

Selecting a storage project

For successful construction cellars, you should understand a simple rule: the deeper the structure is buried in the ground, the easier it is to create optimal conditions for storing agricultural products. The diagram below shows how soil temperature changes at different depths throughout the year. It is easy to notice that on the lower horizons it behaves more stable than on the upper ones.

Unfortunately, it is not always possible to create the perfect basement. The reason is local geological and hydrological conditions, in other words, the specific composition of soils and the high level of groundwater. In any case, before building a cellar, the owner of a summer cottage or estate must find answers to the following questions:

• how close to the surface are they located? The groundwater during periods of heavy rain;
• what is the depth of soil freezing;
• the nature of the underlying soils;
• what area of ​​the yard is allocated for construction.

Note. These questions are especially important when planning a device basement under a garage, barn or private house, since you will have to select and calculate the foundation of the building.

High groundwater levels pose the most serious problem for the construction of underground vegetable storage. Therefore on initial stage you need to experimentally determine at what depth they lie, for example, by drilling a well or interviewing neighbors who have managed to make cellars. If during the flood period the water does not rise above minus 3 m, then you can safely build a completely buried basement at your dacha, shown in the photo.

If the aquifers are closer than 3 m, then the bottom of the cellar or glacier should be made 0.5 m above this mark. This means that you will have to build a semi-buried or above-ground structure with a bulk top. At the same time, wet and heaving soils around the structure, freezing 1.5-2 m deep, must be replaced with loose fractions (sand, fine gravel).

Advice. Fighting flooding in a deeply buried basement is a troublesome and expensive task. To avoid having to build a full-fledged caisson - a technically complex hermetic structure, it is better to leave part of the cellar on top and embank it with earth. An example of such a structure with original design shown in the photo.

How to make a deep basement

All work on the construction of an in-ground cellar with your own hands is divided into several stages:

1. Clarification of the structure's layout.
2. Selection of building materials.
3. Digging a pit, erecting walls and ceilings.
4. Installation of ventilation and lighting, interior design.

There are 2 types of underground storage layout - with a hatch and a full-size door at the entrance. The first option is inconvenient to use, but it saves space and is therefore used for basement rooms under garages, country houses and sheds, and sometimes on the street. How the cellar with a lid and a vertical staircase is arranged is shown in the drawing:

For installation front door one of the dimensions of the basement will have to be increased by at least 1 m in order to make steps along the wall. Another way is to build flight of stairs directly to the door, which is very convenient for moving supplies to and from storage. The drawing below shows a structure with a straight staircase, shown in section.

More details about the design of the basement are described in the video:

We select materials

The requirements for the design of the underground part of the cellar are simple - it should not be destroyed by moisture, transmit heat well and withstand soil pressure. So traditional building materials are suitable for building walls:

• monolithic concrete;
• ceramic red brick (not silicate);
• cinder blocks;
• different natural stone– flagstone, granite, shell rock, sandstone;
• ready foundation blocks FBS series.

Natural stone masonry

Advice. Use of metal and sand-lime brick is an error. The first one rusts heavily in basement conditions and releases harmful compounds, and the second one is destroyed by dampness. Hardware used only for reinforcement concrete fencing and coatings.

To cover the basement, you can take wood - timber, logs and slabs, or pour a concrete slab on steel frame. A more expensive and complex option is a brick vaulted roof, built using wedge technology (each stone is cut so as to wedge the neighboring ones), or on mortar using templates - circled.

Floors are made of three types:

• earthen with the addition of crushed stone (clay);
• bulk gravel and crushed stone;
• reinforced concrete.

The first 2 methods of constructing floors are suitable for cellars dug in dry, dense soils - sandy, rocky, etc. If there is moisture, it is better to screed with a slope towards the pit.

Reference. In former times, storage facilities were made like dugouts - without stone fences. The earthen slopes were lined with wood, after which the pit was covered with logs lined with slabs, where insulation was laid - clay and straw.

Basement walls need waterproofing because they will still have to come into contact with moisture. For this purpose, you need to purchase bitumen mastic or roofing felt.

We are building an underground part

The first step is to dig a pit, the dimensions of which are half a meter larger than the dimensions of the future cellar. Then, sinuses are formed between the walls and the ground, allowing for external waterproofing. Dense, dry soil can be dug vertically, at an angle of 90° to the horizontal, aligning the sides of the hole with a plane. In loose or wet soils, it is better to dig a pit with slopes of 30-45° to the vertical. Also at the stage earthworks you need to dig a sloping trench for the stairs.

Advice. To make work easier, it is worth using an excavator, which will remove the bulk of the earth. All you have to do is work on the walls and bottom of the pit.

To build concrete walls and floors, use the following technology:

1. Fill the bottom with sand to a height of 10 cm and compact it well, pouring water, repeat the same operation with crushed stone. Install formwork along the edges and lay a mesh of periodic profile reinforcement with a diameter of 10-12 mm with cells of 15 x 15 cm.
2. Make a screed 10-12 cm thick from M200-250 concrete with a slope towards the pit or prefabricated gutter, as described in the video presented above. Allow the screed to set for 1 week.
3. Install panel formwork along the walls and secure it in reinforcing mesh, as it was done in the photo. Don't forget to install the embedded parts and lay plastic ventilation pipes on top.
4. Pour concrete to the very top of the pit, expelling air from it by immersing steel rods. After 7 days, remove the formwork and lay channels No. 14-20 on the walls in increments of 0.5 m. Weld reinforcement to them at intervals of 10-12 cm.
5. Mount the bottom and side formwork of the monolithic floor. To do this, OSB plywood sheets need to be tied to the reinforcement frame and supported from below wooden beams. All that remains is to lay it down concrete mixture and wait 28 days until the entire structure is completely cured.

Note. Minimum thickness monolithic wall should be 20 cm. For stone and brickwork this size is 250 mm, and for cinder blocks - the width of 1 stone.

If there is an inclined staircase leading to the basement, then while the main structure is hardening, start finishing its walls and forming steps. It is not necessary to use concrete here; slopes and treads can be lined with available stone.

After the solution has hardened, be sure to treat the outer surfaces of the walls with a bitumen primer or cover them with roofing felt for waterproofing. Then backfill the sinuses with clay (the so-called clay castle). The ceiling also needs to be covered with roofing felt and covered with a layer of earth, or a beautiful gable roof must be made.

Reference. Nowadays, instead of traditional buildings, you can use more modern solution– ready-made plastic cellar cylindrical, completely installed in the pit. Judging by user reviews on forums, seamless plastic products from Russian brands Triton and Tingard.

Interior work

To create normal operating conditions, the cellar should be equipped with a system natural ventilation and lighting, as well as install shelving and bins for storing vegetables. It would not hurt to plaster and whitewash the inside walls and ceiling of the basement.

Let's give some tips on arranging a cellar:

1. Provide ventilation of the storage through 2 pipes - supply and exhaust, then the room will dry well. The outlet of the inflow is 30 cm above the floor, the hood is under the ceiling. ABOUT proper organization natural air exchange in the cellar is described in detail.
2. For safety reasons, it is better to light the basement through a step-down transformer supplying 12 or 36 volts. Lay all wiring in protective plastic corrugations.
3. Make racks and shelves from wood treated with an antiseptic. Metal elements exclude completely.
4. If you have built a small roof over the ceiling, then the ceiling must be insulated. Use polymer materials that are not afraid of moisture - polystyrene foam, polystyrene foam and polyethylene foam.

Insulation of the coating is also carried out with outside. This will do simple materials– expanded clay, clay with straw or sawdust. By the way, the ceiling can be cast from concrete with the addition of expanded clay or polystyrene, then the structure will certainly be lighter and warmer.

Semi-buried structures

The technology for constructing such cellars differs little from the construction of deep storage facilities. The pit is dug to a depth of 0.5 m above the groundwater level, after which the work is carried out in the same order. For the construction of the above-ground part, it is better to use warmer and lighter materials - foam block and aerated concrete, simplest option– double sheets of slate with insulation in the middle.

Note. A good way to create a semi-buried cellar is to dig it on a slope or small hill. The earth removed from the pit will then be used for the top filling.

In order for the ceiling to withstand the weight of the soil, it is specially made vaulted. For this purpose, a reinforcement or wooden frame in the form of an arch, which is subsequently filled with concrete or lined with brick. You will learn more visual information about the construction of bulk cellars by watching the video:

Conclusion

As you can see, self-build cellaring on the street is not too complicated, although the process itself is long and labor-intensive. If you want to do it cheap and cheerful, then dig a traditional dugout, provided that the soil allows it. This option also has a right to life. But over the years of operation (and this is at least 20 years), any basement can be subject to flooding, since the groundwater level is a variable value. The simplest solution is to fill the floor to the detriment of the height of the room; another method is to collect and pump water from the pit with a pump.

Design engineer with more than 8 years of experience in construction.
Graduated from the East Ukrainian National University. Vladimir Dal with a degree in Electronics Industry Equipment in 2011.

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The absence of a cellar at the dacha can lead to the loss of a significant part of the harvest. For this reason alone, it is worth building such an important object with your own hands. Let's look at this process step by step in our review and video.

Cellar in the basement

Often in country house there is a basement area equal to area Houses. This is convenient because... it can be used as a workshop, a storage room for storing tools and equipment, but in most cases it is a garage. You can’t call it a cellar, the temperature and ventilation system in it are not at all what is needed for storing crops collected in the garden, but some part can be equipped as a cellar by taking several steps:

Having a basement, of course, simplifies the work of building a cellar, but if it doesn’t exist, you’ll have to create it from scratch. In the next section, we’ll look at how to build a cellar in a country house with your own hands, step by step.

What types of cellars are there?

Cellars, as separate structures, come in 3 types:

1. Entirely located in the ground. Their depth usually exceeds 2 m.
2. One part of the cellar rises above the ground, and the second is buried a meter and a half into the ground.
3. The structure is buried no more than 1 m, and the rest rises above the ground.

When choosing the type of cellar, you should know what level they are at groundwater. When they are very close (from 0.5 to 1 m), then there is only one option - ground project, and if their depth is more than 2 m, you have to choose between a buried and half-buried cellar. If there is a hill on the site, then this the best place for construction.

Advice: if conditions and funds allow, build a deep cellar. It is the most reliable, because... it always maintains the temperature at the same level.

Construction of a semi-buried cellar

The cellar construction work consists of several stages:

• site preparation;
• foundation device;
• walling;
• waterproofing;
• installation of the ceiling;
• sprinkling;
• final design.

Preparation, installation of the base and walls

To fulfill all construction work, we stock up on tools and materials in advance:

• shovels - bayonet and pick-up;
• tamping;
• tape measure;
• level;
• bitumen mastic;

• roofing felt;
• crushed stone;
• sand;
• cement;
• rolled metal;
• wood.

Preparation consists of clearing the area where it is planned to build the cellar from vegetation. Next we make markings and dig a hole. Professionals consider the following parameters to be the best:

1. The maximum width of the pit is 4 m.
2. The length is optional.
3. Depth - 1.8-2 m.

Where there will be a staircase, we select the soil at a slope, thus forming steps. Having dug to the required depth, we level the floor and walls. Next, we follow the following technology:

Important: to concrete walls were not formed air gaps, while pouring the solution, stir it constantly. This will increase the density of concrete.

The walls in such a unique food safe can be lined with other materials:

• stone, concrete blocks, brick;

• wooden beams, logs, pre-treated with an antiseptic, otherwise they will simply rot after a while;
• asbestos cement sheet fixed on a wooden sheathing.

1. Do not use metal for wall cladding; it does not allow you to hold the necessary temperature regime.
2. In order not to make racks for storing products separately, you can immediately insert a corner or profile pipe at a distance of about 0.7 m horizontally and vertically. Then boards are laid on these embedded parts and convenient racks ready.

Cellar cover

The simplest option is to make a frame of 5 x 5 cm timber around the perimeter of the pit and attach a lid to it on hinges. Insulate it and the ceiling with the door is ready. The most reliable overlap is made from reinforced concrete slabs, but this is both a considerable cost and the need to attract construction equipment, because there is no way to move them manually. There are more economical and less labor-intensive options - using metal profile or logs, slabs, strong blocks of wood.

Let's consider the case when this important element of the cellar is performed from rolled metal. Since the ceiling rests on the walls, its perimeter must exceed the area of ​​the base. The design algorithm is as follows:

If the overlap is performed from wooden beams or logs, after appropriate processing we wrap them in roofing material, securing the latter with a stapler. We lay the wood with emphasis on long walls, in which special grooves are left for this purpose and do not forget about the entry hole. The next step is to secure the ends of the beams by pouring concrete.

The principle of constructing a half-buried and completely buried cellar is the same, only the depth of the underground part remains different. To build an above-ground cellar, we go deep just a little - first we select 40 centimeters of soil around the perimeter, then we go a little deeper, simultaneously increasing the size of each side of the perimeter by 0.3 m. Then, using familiar technology, we arrange the floor, strengthen the walls and build an above-ground compartment.

Construction of the above-ground part

The above-ground part or cellar can be quite simple in the form of a small vestibule protecting the hatch, but sometimes it full room, performing certain functions - summer cuisine, gazebo. We set up a primitive cellar as follows:

1. We make the frame from logs or boards, previously protected from rotting with an antiseptic.
2. We glue roofing felt on the outside.
3. We arrange the same wooden floor. Mix clay with straw and coat the structure.
4. We lubricate the clay-straw surface with bitumen mastic, wrap it in roofing felt, and cover it with soil.
5. We sow flowers or lawn grass.

Interior improvement of the cellar

To go down to the cellar you need a ladder. You can knock it out of wood and lower it down, but this is not very convenient, especially if you visit this place often. It is much more comfortable to go down stationary staircase. When the earthen foundation for this structure was left for another preparatory stage, then the steps are lined with brick, while it is laid flat on the tread and vertically on the edge. They cover it with bricks and side walls, carefully sealing the seams. They also make steps from concrete using a reinforcement frame. Masterfully executed metal staircase It can also be convenient, but the cost is not always satisfactory.

Walls, ceilings, and floors require additional treatment. If the surface is flat, then simply whitewash the walls twice with lime. If brickwork If it turns out not quite smooth, then before whitewashing we plaster it with a solution that contains cement and sand. We carefully inspect the ceiling; if there are cracks, we seal them. Wall joints must also be sealed. If possible, we lay linoleum or boards on the floor. We paint the shelves.

Another job that needs to be done is to prevent the cold from getting into the cellar through the door. We line it from the inside with insulation, and to ensure the necessary microclimate in frosty winters, we install an additional door separating the room from the stairs.

We make or purchase special caps for ventilation pipes to prevent snow or raindrops from flying inside.

Attention: do not block the ventilation openings with anything, this will disrupt the air exchange and condensation will appear in your storage.

Building a cellar in a country house is a difficult task, but with a strong desire, any owner can do it; the main thing is to choose a project that you have enough strength, skill and money to implement.

How to build a cellar: video

Country cellar: photo

Private house or country cottage area it is impossible to imagine without a garden, berry garden or beds of the most different sizes. And of course, during the season you will definitely harvest a crop that will need to be stored somewhere.

And also the products you want keep fresh on hot summer days... In general, you can’t do without a cellar or basement on your property. What will it be? Above ground cellar, glacier, pile, vegetable shed, wine cellar or buried chamber?

What exactly you choose depends on the goal you are pursuing, the landscape and your capabilities. But in any case, it is worth designing buildings so that they look organically on the site, are easy to use and support the overall style.

The cellar can be hidden and made invisible, or you can deliberately make it a bright, original, attractive element of the garden (focal point).

We offer you 30 ideas for decorating a cellar on the site, from familiar and standard to original and fabulous. Let's see!

Do you remember what houses the hobbits lived in? You can build your own Hobbiton in your garden if your site has hills and uneven surfaces. Yes, even if he doesn’t have them, but you have a great desire to build such a cellar, build it too! Of course, such a cellar requires space, so take a critical look at your space first.

An earthen cellar is the most practical. If you built it according to the rules, then the temperature in it will remain at the same level all year round -3-8 degrees.

Such conditions are ideal for preserving food and storing crops. However, it is not always possible to organize a cellar underground (the reason may be groundwater or marshy areas).

An alternative to it can be a bulk cellar, which built on the surface ground or semi-buried, partially located in the ground. High-quality waterproofing and good layer earth filling will help create conditions similar to those in the underground cellar.

If you approach the issue of the cellar creatively, you can combine business with pleasure and organize a children's slide on it, which will not stand idle either in winter or in summer!

Plan the construction of the cellar so that its entrance is on the north side. With this entrance location, the sun's rays will not affect the temperature inside the cellar.

To enhance the effect, plant herbs on the surface of the cellar, ground cover plants, small shrubs for shade or arrange container plants. Climbing plants will perfectly hide a bulk cellar from scorching rays and, at the same time, decorate the garden:

• climbing roses
• girl's grapes
• Tekoma
• clematis (clematis)
• honeysuckle

An Alpine slide, a Czech rolling pin, gabions, a gravel garden or a flower bed will perfectly camouflage your cellar, while at the same time being a stylish landscape element.

Wine Vault

A wine cellar must meet certain conditions: it is important to maintain a certain temperature and humidity, as well as install the correct racks for storing wines.

The ideal location for a wine cellar is to place it under the house. It's easier to create and maintain here required temperature, and at the same time, save space. However, if a house already stands on the site, it is more realistic to plan the wine cellar as a separate one. To ensure that everything in your cellar is taken into account and designed correctly, we advise you to turn to professionals.

In the design of a wine cellar, natural stone (rubble, sandstone, granite), wood, and accessories that we associate with winemaking (barrels of different sizes will be very useful) are often used.