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When choosing a new bagless vacuum cleaner, you should pay attention to the equipment included with the device. Number of brushes and additional accessories will greatly simplify your work with a vacuum cleaner (for example).

The set of cleaning equipment must include a crevice nozzle, a brush for the floor/carpet and upholstered furniture. An innovation in the world of household appliances is a turbo brush for a vacuum cleaner, which copes with stubborn dirt and stuck hair and fur.

2 Brush “Brownie”

This versatile, battery-powered vacuum cleaner was specially designed to give you the most comfortable cleaning experience around the house. With the help of the Brownie brush you can easily clean not only upholstered furniture and clothing, but also pet hair.

The small dimensions and light weight of the bagless vacuum cleaner provide maximum ease of use: the model is highly mobile. The Domovenok vacuum cleaner can serve as a crevice nozzle, penetrating into hard-to-reach corners of the apartment.

A universal brush-vacuum cleaner for furniture, carpets and animal hair is an indispensable assistant in the home for... Cleaning carpets from animal hair during shedding always causes a lot of trouble. But the universal brush-vacuum cleaner “Domovenok” will cope with this task very simply. You can buy the product at a price of 750 rubles. Batteries are purchased separately.

2.1 Using attachments

For high-quality house cleaning, various combinations of components are used, which are attached to the vacuum cleaner in the following order:

1. The electrostatic brush is used to clean household appliances and indoor plants.
2. Then the upholstery of sofas and armchairs is cleaned using a brush attachment. If it is necessary to remove animal hair, use a turbo brush attachment. A crevice tool is used to clean corners.
3. Next is cleansing hard to reach places, baseboards and corners. To do this, a crevice nozzle is installed on the vacuum cleaner. If you apply combined model, in which the crevice tool is installed, simply switch the cleaning mode using the button.
4. Now you can carry out the final cleaning of the apartment using the main brush. If the carpets are heavily soiled, use a turbo brush.

2.2 How much does it cost?

The price range for components is very wide. The cheapest parts can be bought from manufacturers LG and Samsung:

2.3 How to choose?

1. What to buy?

An important factor when choosing components is brand compatibility, because major manufacturers produce special parts for their equipment. If there are no specialized parts specifically for your vacuum cleaner, you can buy universal-purpose attachments. Universal models are compatible with any brand of bagless cleaning equipment.

2. Consider the diameter of the tube of your vacuum cleaner so that the components can be easily attached: the diameter of the nozzles is indicated in the instructions.

3. If you are going to buy a nozzle with a turbo brush for mechanical drive, consider the power of your vacuum cleaner. When choosing a turbo with electric drive, be aware of the possibility of damage to delicate upholstery fabrics and carpet pile. Turbo will perfectly rid the surface of animal hair, but it can simply pull out all the lint from the carpet and ruin the expensive upholstery of the sofa.

The material in the previous article talks about the consequences that can arise as a result of cleaning construction dust and debris with a regular household vacuum cleaner, even from such a brand as Samsung.

Here we should focus on the fact that inside a housing with a stator winding, a rotor rotates, mounted on a shaft axis with two bearings.

It contains:

• magnetic core;
• winding connected to the collector assembly with plates.

Electrical contact for the passage of current through the armature winding is created by brushes pressed against the plates by the force of a compressed spring.

The fan impeller always rotates in one direction. Therefore, to secure it, a threaded nut is used, screwed into counter-rotation side. When the vacuum cleaner is operating, it is additionally fixed by inertia forces, but cannot be unscrewed.

The same principle is used in bicycle pedals: they use two types of threads in different directions: right and left winding for their side.

Disassembly sequence

To repair the electric motor of a vacuum cleaner, you must first:

1. remove the brushes from the body;
2. unscrew the fixing nut with the left-hand thread so as not to damage the windings on the stator and rotor and preserve the design of the commutator mechanism, leaving it in good condition;
3. remove the armature and assess the condition of the bearings, conductors and windings.

I had to perform all these steps to disassemble the electric motor of a Samsung vacuum cleaner. I show them with photographs.

Removing the brushes

Place a screwdriver on the fastening screw one by one and turn it out.

We carefully remove the brush by hand and inspect it.

Traces of soot with the formation of layers of graphite dust are visible to the naked eye.

The same picture is observed on the second brush. Traces of sparking are clearly visible on the end surface.

This allows us to conclude that an external inspection of the commutator and an electrical check of the condition of the rotor and stator windings are necessary.

This cannot be done through a closed engine casing: it requires disassembly and removal of the armature.

3 ways to unscrew the rotor mounting nut

Let's call them conditionally according to the technology of performing the work:

1. cutting a slot;
2. fixation with a noose loop;
3. fastening in a vice through adapters.

Each of these methods has its own advantages and disadvantages and can be used depending on the availability of equipment and tools.

Slot on shaft

A little history

This rotor mounting technology was used on the collector motor of any vacuum cleaner produced during the Soviet era. For ease of manual assembly and subsequent repairs, a groove for the screwdriver blade was always created at the end of the shaft at the factory.

Its force fixed the position of the rotor shaft, and the torque from wrench tightened or loosened the nut. I still have a similar engine that was used in the . This slot is clearly visible in the photo below.

Modern technologies

Nowadays production widely uses industrial robots and automation of all processes. In addition, marketing policy famous manufacturers designed for:

• long service life of manufactured equipment within the declared resource;
• performing repairs by block-by-block replacement of failed devices without disassembling them.

For these reasons, the manufacturer simply replaces the defective commutator motor with a new one without disassembling it: it’s faster, easier and more profitable. Well, our home handyman likes to fix everything with his own hands the old fashioned way.

How to make a slot

The vacuum cleaner motor mounting nut and rotor shaft are made of ordinary steel. You can make a cut in them. However, in our case it does not allow us to execute in the usual way the recess of the fan housing in which they are hidden. Therefore, you will have to use an ordinary and circular saw of the appropriate diameter at its end.

Then we place a wrench on the nut, and a screwdriver on the cut in the motor shaft. All that remains is to apply force to create the opposite torque and use it to disassemble the mount.

I did not use this technology: I did not have a small circular saw for cutting metal. I tried two other methods.

And you can watch its implementation in the video by Alexander M “How to unscrew a nut.”

Loop

The method is based on holding the anchor by the collector plates using a noose assembly. I had to check two options for unscrewing the nut using:

1. soft copper wire:
2. plastic rope.

Wire fastening

In principle, the polyvinyl chloride insulation of the mounting wire squeezes the rotor shaft well onto the commutator plates, maintaining the integrity of their surface, and allows it to be held for unscrewing the nut.

I used copper wire with a diameter of 2.5 mm square. However, the design of the loop turned out to be loosely tightened and did not completely provide a noose. When working with the key, I felt that the shaft was turning and did not apply much force.

When I pulled my wire out of the engine, I saw frayed insulation on it. I didn't experiment with this method anymore. However, I suggest watching this technology in the HamRadio video “How to unscrew a nut on an engine.”

Fastening with cord

He took a piece of thin rope and folded it in half in length. I did it in the middle soft wire, acting as a needle.

With its help, it was possible to conveniently place the soft cord in a loop on the noose and pass it around the collector plates.

I tied a fastening knot around the housing window.

My attempt to unscrew the nut using this method did not work: the structure of the cord turned out to be weak - it simply broke due to the applied tension forces.

If you repeat this method, choose a stronger rope, cord or belt.

Clamp in a vice

To fix the anchor in this way, it was necessary to make two adapters in the form of rectangular blocks from wood.

Their cross section should fit into the hole in the housing for attaching the brush, and the length should reach the collector plates and protrude slightly outward. These distances are better than preliminary or ruler.

Moreover, the side adjacent to the rotor must be sharpened with a round file in the form of a segment for a tight fit to the motor shaft.

With the help of these adapters, it was possible to fix the engine rotor in a vice, pressing with medium force.

All that remains is to set the socket wrench to 12 mm and rotate it clockwise.

The nut is safely unscrewed. on her inner surface the machined factory cavity is noticeable.

Further disassembly

Removing the top engine mount cover

It is simply put on top and crimped around the perimeter in four places.

Dents created at the factory can be carefully smoothed out using pliers.

Then the cover is simply pulled back by hand and removed from the engine housing.

Air pump wheel

There is a fan under the cover. There is some minor damage visible on it. plastic part housings.

Inside the cover, the layers of dust remaining after purging the engine are clearly visible. They can also be seen in the photo of the fan near the inlet blades.

It stuck to the washer and under it.

Unscrew the mounting screws with a screwdriver.

Dismantling the anchor

Fastening is carried out:

• screws through the upper tab with a compartment for the upper bearing race;
• projections with grooves in the cover;
• lower bearing race.

Screws securing the rotor to the motor stator

We gain access to them immediately after removing the plastic fan housing.

Let's unwind them. At the same time, we pay attention to the amount of construction dust inside the housing that remains even after it has been blown out from the outside.

Protrusions of the mounting plate that fit into the grooves of the stator housing

They are located next to the mounting screws and provide additional fastening to the rotor.

Using a flat screwdriver, carefully guide them toward the exit from the grooves.

Then we hold the mounting plate with our fingers through the internal holes or hang it on a support. The rotor is still held in place by attaching the outer race of the lower bearing. By the way, it turned out to be additionally glued.

The protruding end of the threaded shaft axis must be protected from damage with a piece of dry hardwood board and struck with a hammer. The rotor will be knocked out of the stator.

Visual inspection

On the rotor, traces of carbon deposits from graphite dust formed as a result of burning brushes and glue on the bearing race are clearly visible.

I tried to remove contamination from the plates in the traditional, careful way: wash with alcohol or its solution using a cotton swab.

The carbon deposits stuck quite strongly to the metal and dissolved very poorly. I had to work with steel bluen. The photo below shows the preliminary result of cleaning, which requires additional polishing of the surfaces.

But, for carrying out electrical measurements this is quite enough. Then comes the cleaning of the grooves between the collector plates from debris, dust and carbon deposits that can bypass the rotor winding chains. At first he worked as a bluer, and then as a scraper made of non-coniferous wood.

Electrical tests of armature circuits

I took my old tester and... It turned out to have a very large spread from one to 13 ohms in four adjacent areas.

This is clear evidence that wire breaks have been created between the windings and electrical circuits have been disrupted. The connection diagram of a working rotor in a simplified form is as follows.

The collector plates are isolated from each other, but connected in series in a circle to exactly identical sections of windings made of equal pieces of wire with the same electrical resistance R1. They are collected into one electrical circuit and therefore, with a working engine, they show equal values. Taking into account measurement errors and installation technology, their value may differ only by fractions of an ohm and no more.

If the deviations are higher, then this indicates a break in individual conductors creating a parallel chain through air gap with enormous electrical resistance. Which is exactly what I did.

I begin to look for a break in the winding: I examine the armature and notice places where the wire is blackened and broken ends.

I show these areas larger with small comments.

The conclusion suggests itself: such a winding cannot be used. It must be replaced with a working one.

This malfunction was indirectly indicated by:

1. burnt surfaces of rubbing brushes;
2. burnt dust from graphite on the collector plates.

You can rewind the rotor winding with your own hands. This is a very real job for home handyman and I had to do it when repairing the armature of a Soviet Raketa brand vacuum cleaner.

• you will have to mark the collector plates with a permanent marker;
• Based on the created markings, reproduce on paper the entire diagram of laying wires between the grooves of the magnetic circuit. To do this, you will have to literally feel them with your hands and carefully look with your eyes;
• completely carefully remove the old wires without damaging the electrical insulation of the core;
• find a new one copper wire of the same cross-section with an insulating layer of varnish that is resistant to high temperatures. A thin conductor will not withstand current loads, and the turns of a thicker one simply will not fit in the grooves of the magnetic core;
• laying in grooves requires increased care and constant recording of installation results on paper;
• there will be difficulties with electrical connection laid wires in the grooves of the collector plate. Ordinary may not provide temperature regime. Refractory solders must be used.

Rewinding the armature winding with my own hands in an electrical laboratory took me a little more than two weeks. I worked on it during lunch breaks and in the windows between completing main tasks. I fixed the engine then, but I don’t recommend doing this kind of work yourself.

The cost of an electric motor is approximately half the price of a vacuum cleaner. Therefore, think about what is more profitable:

• replace the burnt out rotor or stator with a rewound one;
• buy the entire engine and install it in the old housing;
• or just buy new brand vacuum cleaner with warranty period service.

Advice for the future: construction dust After renovating an apartment, it is cheaper to clean it with a slightly damp cloth than with a household vacuum cleaner not intended for this purpose.

We hope that oleg pl’s video “How to disassemble a vacuum cleaner motor” will help you.

This article is about how I assemble my robot vacuum cleaner. There are a lot of photos and videos here for those who are also passionate about this idea.

December 19, 2014. I began to be interested in robotic vacuum cleaners five years ago in 2009, probably after meeting the Roboforum. All these years there have been attempts to start something, but nothing has been done. A couple of months ago, I actively read articles about a robot vacuum cleaner and finally decided that I would buy a Karcher RC 4.000. Time passed, my wife often began to clean the kitchen and hallway, this began to irritate me, the thought of a robot grew stronger. I again spent a couple of evenings in pictures and forums about robotic vacuum cleaners. Finally I decided that I would make a robot myself!

The goal is to create a robot vacuum cleaner no worse than an industrially manufactured one and get rid of the layer of dust and small debris in the house. In the process of studying the design of robots, it turned out that they are very noisy, about 60 dB, while a stationary home washing vacuum cleaner Noise is about 80 dB. My homemade robot should work as quietly as possible, its dimensions should not exceed the dimensions of factory robots, and it should clean quickly and efficiently.

The first step was to resolve the issue with the suction turbine. I already had experience building turbines, but they all worked poorly. For the garage, I made a homemade vacuum cleaner from a turbine from an old Rocket vacuum cleaner. The robot needs a small turbine, so I started my search all over again. Quite by accident I found messages from the user Vovan on the Roboforum, he shared a drawing of his turbine. Without much thought, I redrawn the drawing and glued my turbine together.

I cut out the turbine and glued it from thick cardboard using super glue in 20 minutes. The first tests were successful!

December 20, 2014. I bought a body peeling today :) in general, I only need a transparent jar with a screw cap, I gave the contents to my wife. I also bought a clothes brush with hard bristles, took it apart, and tomorrow I will make a brush out of it for my robot.

In AutoCAD I made sketches of the arrangement of elements in the body. I settled on the size of the basin with a diameter of 25 cm and a height of about 9 cm. It is not yet clear whether all the elements will fit, there is really little space, but I don’t want to make the body anymore. I set the framework for myself :)

Yesterday on the Internet I wrote down the dimensions of factory robotic vacuum cleaners:
diameter * height (cm)
36 * 9
32 * 8
32 * 10
30 * 5
22 * 8

I decided to make my own vacuum cleaner with cyclone filter, so you can’t make the height small, it’s determined by the garbage collection can, but you can win in diameter. Of course, thanks to Dyson for the cyclone, I have been reviewing his inventions for a long time and even made a garage vacuum cleaner based on the cyclone principle. My filter will be simple, without any cones and crazy suction power, it will do for the first time.

December 21, 2014. I sawed off a 15 cm round cutting from a floor brush in the garage and made a round brush out of it. The diameter turned out to be about 70 mm. The size is unrealistically large and the bristles are very hard, I don’t know how it will behave, but I’ll probably have to either redo or make the vacuum cleaner heavier, because the bristles will throw it up. I simply inserted the bristles into the holes without glue, and it turned out securely. The entire structure was secured to a pin with a diameter of 6 mm and two bearings at the edges.

I found two wheels in the garage, believe it or not, from a vacuum cleaner! The same handheld vacuum cleaner in which there was nothing electric, only 4 wheels and two brushes driven by these wheels. The wheels have been waiting in the wings for about 15 years :)

Now I’ll make another drawing in AutoCAD for several parts, tomorrow I’ll cut everything out of plywood and try to assemble something based on it.

December 22, 2014. I really want to make a robot vacuum cleaner with my own hands and finish it before the New Year 2015. Last night on YouTube I watched again several videos about robot vacuum cleaners and in particular two videos about Dyson 360 Eye and Fluffy:

After the first video with the Dyson robot, I realized that by making my robot with a diameter of 25 cm and a brush 15 cm long, I would leave dirty places along the baseboard 5 cm wide. After the second video, my brain completely rebooted and thought about making a brush in front of the robot?! I don’t know what I’ll do next, the tests will show.

So today I bought a new dustpan and two brushes with softer bristles. I bought the scoop because of the elastic band that is glued to the edge; it is perfect for my design.

I changed the geometry of the body a little based on new thoughts and a new brush. The robot's size is still 25 cm, but now it is half a circle and half a square. The width of the brush is 21 cm, the diameter is about 6 cm. I cut out the base from 8 mm plywood, attached the wheels and the brush, tomorrow I’ll make a gearbox and try to sweep something up :)

December 23, 2014. I screwed the gear to the brush and attached the gearbox next to it, used an elastic band for money as a belt, and screwed the motor with a screw for testing. Below is a video test at 6 and 9 volts.

Most likely I will redo the brush again, the bristles are too short and too hard. The pile must be without gaps, because streaks of dirt remain. Overall it turned out spectacular :)

I wondered if I had enough space for three motors in the housing. Two motors will spin two wheels and one brush. Plus, gearboxes will take up a lot of space. I came up with the idea of ​​replacing the gear reducers with a worm gear, maybe I’ll do a couple of tests.

The suction turbine was coated twice with a layer epoxy resin, became like plastic. The cardboard no longer bends and if water gets in everything will be fine. I didn't have to center it, it spins perfectly. Meanwhile, I prepare the base for the garbage can. Made a filter fine cleaning from the neck and cap of a kefir bottle. I used a disposable vacuum cleaner bag as a filter fabric. While everything is sticking, in a couple of days I’ll screw it onto the base and test everything again.

While working on the robot, the idea of ​​getting a 3D printer constantly comes to mind. With a three-dimensional printer it would be much easier to create the parts I need and with high accuracy. When you drill into plywood with a drill, the drill may lead away or the inclination is not exactly 90 degrees, here about high precision one can only dream. In addition, parts made of plywood are very bulky; everything would be neat on a 3D printer.

December 24, 2014. In the morning I tested the turbine and a garbage can, and in the afternoon I repeated the experiment with more high voltage. The results are not impressive. I had to unscrew the fine filter for now, because through it the power drops significantly. The garbage in the can spins very effectively, but in reality there is not enough suction power.

High voltage turbine test.

At these moments there was a desire to give up on everything, why did I even take on this. Nowadays it’s very easy to drop everything and forget - it’s the easiest way.

In the evening I took a brushless motor and started gluing it new turbine according to the same drawings.

December 25, 2014. I glued the second turbine for the brushless motor, I wanted to test it, it turned out that the motor rotates in the wrong direction. Tomorrow I'll go to the garage to resolder the wires, but for now I'll put everything aside.

December 26, 2014. I re-soldered the wires between the controller and the motor, and got rotation in the desired direction. The turbine started working, but a couple of tests on the knee turned out to be sad again. Maybe I’ll even redesign the turbine by adding a little taper, but more on that later.

The last two days I spent very little time on development, I’ll try to allocate 4-5 hours tomorrow.

December 27, 2014. I decided to try to assemble a worm gear for the chassis of a robot vacuum cleaner. In the photos earlier I showed that you can make a worm from a nail and a piece of copper wire. The problem turned out to be in the process of soldering the wire to the nail. My soldering iron is not very powerful, so I additionally heated the nail for gas burner. However, it was not possible to solder the wire properly, so I took a round piece of wood and wound the wire on it, and covered the turns with super glue. The worm turned out to be quite tolerable. Ignoring ovality wooden base and in general the whole plywood block mechanism worked fine, but damn it was very slow.

It would be nice to get ready-made plastic worm gears, but for now let's put that aside.

Regarding the future energy consumption of my robot. Now there is a problem with the turbine, it doesn’t want to suck properly even with the fine filter removed. If you use a regular brushed motor for the turbine and power it with a voltage of 12 volts, then it will consume about 0.6 amperes. If you use a brushless motor, it will consume about one amp. Plus, two commutator motors will be used to move the robot and another one will be used for the brush, each will consume about 0.3 amperes. Electronics will also consume something. In total, the robot will “eat” approximately 1.6 to 2 amperes, in peaks probably up to 2.5 amperes. I don’t know if this is a lot or not, it seems like industrial robots consume three or more amperes.

Again I watched a bunch of videos and photos for the query “the operating principle of a robot vacuum cleaner.” I found a cool photo of a turbine from a regular household vacuum cleaner. I read on some forum that the longer the turbine blades, the greater the vacuum it can create due to centrifugal force.

December 28, 2014. Today I glued two more turbines, they differ only in thickness. I made the blades as long as possible. In the photo below is the first thin (5mm blade height) turbine, it is very quiet in operation, but it doesn’t suck at all :)

The second turbine is thicker (15mm blade height).

Once again in the garage I tried to drag the brush across the floor, the motor often shuts down under the load, the bristles still turned out to be very stiff, and it wouldn’t hurt to reduce the diameter of the brush. Tomorrow, no matter the weather, I’m going to buy a brush with the softest bristles, I’ll also go to a toy store and look for cars with worm gear for the robot chassis.

In the garage I tested a new turbine with a voltage of 12 volts, I thought that 9 blades might not be enough. At home I glued together the third turbine of the day with long blades and a quantity of 15 pieces, I attach a photo:

Another day has ended. I won’t have time to make a vacuum cleaner as planned before the new year, but I want to believe that everything will be fine :)

December 29, 2014 Went to the toy store today looking for a worm gear. On the way, I remembered my daughter’s toy - a horse. My daughter didn’t really like this horse and, in general, I don’t really like it either :) But it has two whole worms and 4+4 gears inside it.

I still looked into a toy store, then into a second one and bought a topsy-turvy car there. I bought the car not so much for the mechanism, but for its wheels; they climb on any surface. There was no worm gear inside the machine. Wheels are quite possible I use for homemade robot, but for now I gave the car to my daughter - she is delighted :)

During the day the idea came to mind to make a robotic electric broom, i.e. the design is the same as now, only there is no turbine, the garbage is simply collected in the compartment. When I was looking for a new brush with softer bristles in the store (I never bought it), I accidentally saw this:

Of course, I immediately bought this cover. This is a ready-made robot body, transparent in a modern way and even without unnecessary elements. But in fact this is a “Cover for microwave oven"(diameter 24.5 cm), I don’t know what to cover it with and why, but the robot should turn out beautiful :) But more on that in another article.

In the evening I broke the conic, took out the gears and screwed it to my robot, it turned out great! The mechanism takes up minimal space and is strong enough to move the platform. I haven't collected everything yet, so photos will come later. In the meantime, I’m hatching an idea on how to make a new brush, reduce its diameter to 3-4 cm and replace the gearbox with gears with a worm gear.

By the way, note that the worm can be removed from other toys. So we had a broken elephant lying around, but in principle this is not important, the main thing is the mechanism, which is the same in many toys (cars, tanks and others), see photos:

Oh yes, I forgot to write about the new turbine, it turned out to be noticeably more productive than all the others. For better air passage, I also added a cone in the middle of the turbine.

January 05, 2015. Despite new year holidays All the previous days I tried to somehow make progress in my work. I read a lot of information about 3D printers; if I had such a printer in my arsenal, I would have printed most of the parts a long time ago. While in my head I’m making plans for the future on how to assemble a 3D printer with my own hands.

Today I made a new brush. I took a wooden stick with a diameter of 10 mm and drilled holes in a spiral. I inserted bristles into the holes and sealed them with reverse side wood burner.

I assembled the chassis, haven't tested it yet, the glue is drying. I also put the new brush in place, it turned out to be a lot of jambs, I couldn’t do without them, after all, this is my first robot. By the way, I abandoned the rectangular back and made a base for a round body. My decision is connected with rethinking the movement of the robot, if you imagine that the robot is moving along the wall and rests against something, then in order to turn it will have to make a maneuver with a backward movement, because its square butt will slide onto the wall.

I spent a lot of time finding a solution for the robot's "vision". The mechanical bumper doesn’t really suit me; it spoils the external one, even though it is the simplest obstacle detection scheme. I stopped at infrared sensor. It is not yet possible to assemble the sensor due to the lack of infrared phototransistors.

January 07, 2015. Yesterday until one o'clock in the morning I was assembling a robot to at least somehow test it and play around with it :) The Arduino Pro Mini board + motorshield on L293E chips with wiring is used as the “brain” (I used this board in my first project on online motor control through the Internet). Control is carried out from the TV remote control. Short video:

The design looks liquid, in fact it is, almost all the mechanisms can barely breathe. Today I realized how difficult it is to make a seemingly simple robot. On this moment I have problems in almost all nodes, a global rework of almost everything is required.

Wheel drive on worm gear In terms of speed, it turned out to be just right, but its execution leaves much to be desired. Part of the drive is placed in a compartment where there will be air movement with debris; this will not work for a long time. I wanted to drill holes on the wheels that would serve as an additional motion sensor. On one side of the wheel there will be an IR LED, on the other there will be an IR phototransistor. This circuit will pulsate when the robot moves; if there are no pulses, it means the robot has bumped into something and is not moving.

For proximity sensors, I bought IR LEDs and IR phototransistors, but after testing such an IR bumper, it became clear that the idea was bad. The sensor responds to sunlight, but doesn’t see black objects at all. The design has the right to life, but in more simple homemade projects. For those who are interested, I share the diagram:

If you bring your hand close to the sensor, then breadboard The LED lights up.

Also I tried ultrasonic sensor. It measures distance perfectly, but only using the “head-on” method; if the plane of the object is at an angle, then the readings are distorted. In general, even with such a sensor, the robot’s bumper will not work normally.

For control from the remote control, a TSOP IR receiver is used, I don’t know what marking it is, in principle, you can use any one you come across. You can control it from any remote control, even from mobile phone, but before that you need to find out the codes of the buttons pressed on the remote control. In the sketch simple circuit, which sends the button code to the port monitor when pressed on the remote. Connection example and sketch below:

As for the sweeping brush, it turned out great, its width is almost 21 cm, with a body of 25 cm. There are some nuances: the fibers are not restored if you crush them. The drive mechanism is not covered by anything; it will wind the hair in 3 minutes of operation and stop. The brush is not removable. The motor is very weak, but the number of revolutions is very suitable, it sweeps the table very effectively.

Now this robot vacuum cleaner will be disassembled and rethought. Most likely, the diameter of the body will increase by 3 cm. Initially, I thought of making the wheels on an independent suspension so that they would hide if someone suddenly stepped on the robot. I will still drive the wheels using gears instead of a worm. You need to look for a different bristle for the brush, one that is more elastic and will hold its shape. Apparently the bumper will have to be made mechanical. Lots of questions about the suction turbine.

Despite all the shortcomings, my wife liked the robot, and my daughter was absolutely delighted :)

To be continued. I won’t write about the robot so often anymore, but I will try to publish photo and video reports at least once a month.

March 2015. I bought an electric broom.

The robot vacuum cleaner is still in the project!