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They are widely used in modern industrial and civil construction. According to their characteristics, they have proven themselves to be environmentally friendly, dust-free, impact-resistant and sound-proofing coatings.

Based on the composition of the components included in self-leveling antistatic polymer floors, they are divided into polyurethane and epoxy. The former are based on polyurethane and methyl methacrylic. Curing of the coating occurs under the influence of air.

The latter include a two-component epoxy resin as a base. Polymerization of such a coating occurs when a hardener is added to the mixture.

Since these coatings were developed for industrial use and are resistant to high loads, when used in an apartment or a private house, the difference between them is practically unnoticeable.

The difference may not be significant, but it is there. Epoxy self-leveling floors are more resistant to abrasion and impact (if a tool falls). But polyurethane coatings dampen vibration well and reduce noise (during machine operation).

Based on this, we can offer polymer floors in an apartment or house according to the following principle:

• hallway - polymer epoxy floors (here there is a high content of sand from shoes);
• kitchen – epoxy floors (high probability of heavy objects falling);
• bathroom and toilet - epoxy floors;
• bedrooms and living rooms - polyurethane floors (increased sound insulation of rooms).

The technology for laying self-leveling polymer floors is quite simple. Even a schoolchild can master it. Therefore for home handyman Laying a self-leveling polymer floor with your own hands is not difficult.

When performing work, he will need a maximum of one assistant. However, it is important to remember that no matter how simple the operations for installing a self-leveling floor are, they must be approached responsibly. Especially if you are planning to install 3D self-leveling floors.

Self-leveling 3D floors are the same epoxy or polyurethane floors, onto the surface of which a three-dimensional drawing, a finished photograph or a reproduction of a painting is applied. The top of such a floor is covered with a protective transparent layer (varnish).

Let's take a closer look at how to properly fill a self-leveling floor. More precisely, below are instructions on what and how to do.

Where does renovation work in an apartment or house begin? Of course, with planning, calculation of materials and your budget. Once you have decided which floors you will use, you can start making calculations.

Having chosen a self-leveling floor (epoxy or polyurethane), it is not difficult to calculate the amount of material for its installation. They are sold in sets. The composition of the self-leveling floor can include various fillers (quartz dust, marble chips, dyes, etc.)

The choice of color and filler is up to you. The kit comes with instructions that indicate which layer to use and what area it will be used for. On average, 1 liter of mixture is used per 1 sq. m of floor base with a layer thickness of 1 mm.

How to calculate material for self-leveling floor

The specific gravity of 1 liter of the substance is approximately 1.3 kg. For a room of 16 square meters you will need 16 x 1.3 = 20.8 kg of mixture. For polyurethane floors specific gravity 1.25-1.33kg/l. For epoxy floors 1.4-1.5 kg/l.

Sets of self-leveling polymer floors from different manufacturers may differ in weight. On average, 1 set weighs —— and its consumption is 20 m2 with a layer thickness of 3 mm.

Damper tape to compensate for the expansion of the floor when it is heated. It is laid around the entire perimeter where the floor touches the walls.

You can do without it, but for this you need to make a special expansion joint in the walls. It will be described below.

Tools

Tools for polymer floors:

• electric drill with low speed and mixing attachment;
• container for mixing components (plastic bucket);
• household scales (for weighing fillers);
• angle grinder (grinder);
• vacuum cleaner;
• wide spatula (can be serrated);
• fabric roller;
• needle roller (squeegee for);
• paint shoes (have needle-shaped soles and are worn on shoes).

Once you have prepared everything you need, you can start working. Important! Before laying the self-leveling floor, the instructions included with the set of materials must be carefully studied by you.

How to properly fill a self-leveling floor

Laying of polymer floors is carried out only on a previously leveled and prepared surface of the subfloor. If the screed has cracks or chips, they must be repaired. cement mortar or waterproofing mastic.

You can also use mastic to treat the joints between the floor and the walls around the perimeter. If the base of the floor has critical differences, then it must be leveled. Self-leveling floors are ideal for this.

If the surface of the original cement-sand screed is smooth, then it must be processed with an angle grinder (grinder). This will allow you to remove fragile elements and roughen (sand) the surface for strong adhesion of the self-leveling floor and the base (screed). If you do not want to use a damper tape, then along the perimeter of the room (where the floor meets the walls) a grinder is used to make an incision parallel to the floor with a depth of up to 5 mm and a height equal to the layer being poured.

This gap compensates thermal expansions floor and will not allow cracks to appear. Otherwise, lay damper tape around the perimeter. After pouring the floor, you can cut it with a knife and cover the joint with a plinth.

After cleaning, it is necessary to remove all debris from the surface and thoroughly vacuum the base of the floor. Dust is the main enemy of self-leveling floors. If there are grease or oil stains, they must be degreased with a solvent.

A primer is applied to the prepared surface. Manufacturers of self-leveling polymer floors produce polyurethane-based primers. They can be supplied as a set of self-leveling floors.

If they are not available, you can prepare the solution yourself. The primer will be a mixture of 20-30% of the base material of the self-leveling floor and a solvent (acetone, solvent, xylene, etc.).

The primer is mixed in a container with a drill with an attachment at low speed. This will prevent bubbles from appearing. Mix for 3-4 minutes. After this, the primer is poured onto the floor and spread evenly over the surface with a flat spatula.

The applied primer layer is rolled needle roller to remove their mixture of air bubbles. Paint shoes must be worn on feet. If necessary, apply a second coat.

After applying the primer, it should dry well. Remember! You cannot make large technological gaps between priming and applying the base layer.

As a rule, the drying time of the composition is indicated on the container with the primer composition. For epoxy floors, complete drying time is 12-18 hours. For polyurethane: 6-12 hours.

When priming, the room must be well ventilated. The use of open flames is prohibited.

After the primer has dried, you can apply the base coat. Preparing the mixture requires careful preliminary study of the instructions.

Open the container with base layer(liquid A) and, using a drill with a nozzle at low speed, mix the liquid for 3-5 minutes. Add hardener (liquid B) to the center of the container with liquid A. Using the drill again, stir for 3-5 minutes.

Do not allow air bubbles to appear. While stirring, add fillers (quartz sand, dyes). When the mixture is ready, it is ready for installation.

Work begins from the far wall. From the container, the mixture is poured along the wall in parallel strips and, using a spatula (notched trowel), evenly leveled over the surface. Then pour in the next portion of the mixture.

When the mixture is spread over the floor, it must be rolled with a needle roller. This will remove air bubbles from the base layer. If this is not done, the floor will be weakened and may crack.

After the last procedure, the floor is ready and requires time to dry and gain strength.

After 24 hours you can walk on the floor carefully. Full polymerization will occur in 7 days and the installation of the self-leveling floor is completed.
To increase the wear resistance of the polymer floor, a protective varnish can be applied to its surface. If you first apply a decorative three-dimensional drawing or photograph to it, you will get wonderful, exclusive 3D floors.

"Step 3" describes the sequence for epoxy flooring. However, it differs from the sequence of laying a polyurethane floor only in the preparation of the solution.

There, the role of a hardener is played by the solvent supplied in the kit. The time required for pouring a polyurethane floor after mixing with a solvent is limited to 30 minutes.

Self-leveling polymer floors have now become promising and fashionable look floor coverings and are increasingly installed in apartments (houses). Because they very well combine many of the requirements for floor coverings. Their qualities such as durability, hygiene, resistance to mechanical and chemical damage, the ability to decorate, as well as their electrical properties put polymer floors in the forefront. In addition, this floor can have any color, thereby giving a flight of fancy for design.

Self-leveling polymer floors

And what is important for the home craftsman, you can make such a floor yourself. You just need to have some experience in carrying out repair work in your apartment, a set of tools and accessories. And before you start installing the floor, carefully study the instructions that come with the set of materials for self-leveling floor. Scrupulously observe proportions when mixing components, observe time ranges, strictly adhere to the temperature and humidity recommended in the instructions, so as not to disrupt the technological cycle and not let all the work go down the drain. If you are not afraid of such conditions, then you can get to work.

The process of installing polymer floors is carried out in stages:

- Preparation necessary materials, tools, devices, workwear and protective equipment;
— preparation of the floor base;
- treating the base of the floor with a primer;
— applying the main layer of polymer flooring;
— applying the top (finishing) layer.

If you are taking on this work for the first time, then it is best to start installing a polymer floor with a bathroom. Because there is usually a small floor area and, in case of some flaws, they will not be so noticeable, but after gaining experience, you can continue in other rooms of your apartment.

Preparation of materials and tools.

Once on the market building materials you will see a fairly large selection of materials for the device self-leveling polymer floor. They differ in their characteristics and properties. Consult the seller to choose the right one for your particular case, depending on the quality of the base of your future floor, its levelness and humidity.

Tools for self-leveling floors

Among the tools you will need: an electric drill with a stirring attachment, it’s nice to have a surface grinder, a vacuum cleaner, a regular paint roller, a needle roller, spatulas - regular and notched, special needle paint mortars for moving on a damp polymer floor, and of course personal protective equipment. Ensure that the floor surface is well illuminated while working.

Preparing the base of the self-leveling floor.

If you are installing a polymer floor in the bathroom without dismantling the old one floor tiles, then you still need to prepare the floor. Carry out jointing, sanding, cleaning all seams and cracks, and check its horizontalness. If a deviation of the floor from the horizon is detected, a screed will have to be made to level it. After completing the preparation of the base, it is necessary to remove all dust in the room with a vacuum cleaner and cover the cracks with putty.

Treating the base of the self-leveling floor with a primer.

The primer is simple, but very important detail and it must be carried out with great responsibility. The primer is made using the usual paint roller in two layers with each layer drying for at least a day. To ensure better adhesion of the polymer floor to the base, the freshly laid primer is sprinkled with clean quartz sand. The quality of the completed primer is determined visually after its final drying by the gloss and saturation of the surface where it is applied.

Application of the main layer of polymer self-leveling floor.

Polymer self-leveling floors are divided into several systems and each has differences in the technology for applying the base layer of the floor. The main ones are: painting, self-leveling and high filling.

Paintable polymer floors

The easiest system to produce is the painting system.. This is a thin-layer system about one millimeter thick, it can be applied to both new concrete, and on the old existing floor covering. Polyurethane paint systems are most often used, and it is recommended to apply up to 150 g/m2 on each floor layer. A floor constructed using this system is relatively inexpensive, but due to its small thickness, it is not durable and requires good preparation of the base.

Self leveling system

Self leveling system and is the so-called self-leveling floor, their thickness reaches 5 mm. There are many varieties of self-leveling coating compositions. Such compositions are prepared from two components immediately before use and poured onto the prepared base.

Then they are evenly distributed over the surface of the future floor using notched trowel. The hardening of the polymer mixture begins in 15 minutes, so you need to hurry to level the material and roll it with a needle roller in different directions to remove

air bubbles and its uniform distribution over the floor surface. There is no need to remove the roller from liquid material until the end of rolling.

If you need to move on a freshly poured floor, then special paint mortars with needle soles.

Highly filled systems, their thickness is about 10 mm, the most complex in technology and labor-intensive work, and therefore require highly qualified performers. They hide all defects in the subfloor.

Highly filled systems

Applying the top (finishing) layer.

At the final stage of installing a polymer self-leveling floor, a so-called finishing layer is applied on top of the main layer to make the floor surface more resistant to various influences and improve appearance. As such a layer, various varnishes are used, which are applied with a roller. After completion of work, access to the room is stopped until the floor is completely dry.

Video instructions for installing a polymer self-leveling floor.

Floor coverings in this design are becoming increasingly widespread in civil and industrial construction. The reason for this is factors such as their exceptional strength and durability. In addition, polymer self-leveling floors are distinguished by extremely simple execution technology, which allows you to make them yourself.

The combination of words “self-leveling floor” or 3D floor is familiar to many, but few know what these terms mean. How to arrange such coverings, how environmentally safe and durable they are, and how to make them yourself. Those wishing to acquire such a progressive floor covering would like to find out these and many more questions.

About the advantages and disadvantages of polymer self-leveling floors

Like any engineering solution, installing a floor from polymer materials has a number of advantages, but is also endowed with certain disadvantages.

The advantages include the following properties:

• the elasticity of the coating, which determines their ability to withstand building vibrations, both seismic and seasonal;
• resistance of the polymer coating to any reagents and high humidity;
• Fire safety;
• simplicity of manufacturing technology, allowing you to make the coating yourself;
• ease of maintenance and care;
• long life cycle polymer coating;
• despite the very smooth surface, such coatings are non-slip;
• many design options, including original drawings and patterns.

The disadvantages include the following:

• high-quality polymer flooring is really expensive, but in terms of reliability and durability it has no equal. There are no full statistics on their operation yet, but the practice of their use speaks volumes about their high rates. Of course, unless the installer is looking for cheapness and purchasing low-quality material that is exposed to harsh ultraviolet radiation. As a result, cloudiness of the composition, the appearance of yellowness and loss of visual perception are possible;
• installing a polymer floor requires a very flat and strong base;
• problems arise when you want to replace flooring to another. The high adhesion of the material and its strength characteristics make its dismantling almost impossible; the next coating will have to be installed on top of the polymer one;
• the polymer layer is very sensitive to the humidity of the base, which should not exceed 4%. During the installation process, the temperature in the room should not change by more than two degrees.

Classification of polymer floors

Materials can be separated according to various criteria. The most commonly used classification is based on the materials used:

1. Self-leveling floors made of epoxy materials are the most popular due to their high elasticity and strength characteristics of the composition.
2. Self-leveling polyurethane floors are characterized by increased durability.
3. Methyl methacrylate coatings are characterized by rapid hardening and increased coating strength. Most often used in industrial premises.
4. Floors for the same purposes are made from urea, and there is no need to stop production, since they are applied by spraying.
5. Polyester-based solutions are the cheapest and most unreliable method of installing self-leveling floors, which cannot guarantee a positive result.

How much does a self-leveling floor device cost?

The technology used to install polymer flooring is simple. The main labor costs fall on preparatory work.

The final success of all work depends on quality preparation. Therefore, the price in each specific case depends on the amount of preparation and its content. Therefore, in the market for services for pouring polymer floors, the price for square meter

floor price ranges from 350 to 600 rubles and is determined after a thorough inspection of the object.

Self-leveling floor technology

• Before purchasing materials, you should decide on a number of points:
• type and purpose of the premises; magnitude possible loads
• on the floor;
• the need to introduce decorative elements into the coating composition;
• the desire to give the floor certain properties - antistatic, anti-slip and others;

cost optimization taking into account the price-quality ratio.

During the work you will need:

• container for preparing plastic mass with a capacity of at least 20 liters;
• drill with adjustable speed and a special nozzle for mixing self-leveling floor components. You need to select a nozzle according to its length - it should ensure mixing of the mass to the bottom;
• a spatula designed to distribute the mixture in hard-to-reach places;
• a spatula in the form of a squeegee for uniform distribution of plastic mass over the supporting surface;
• needle roller - to remove air bubbles from the plastic layer;
• studded soles - for moving around the poured space with the least impact on the fill layer.
• a solvent used to wash tools from plastic residues. It must be selected following the instructions on the packaging of the base material.

In addition to the above, you need to stock up on rubber gloves to protect your skin.

Calculation of the quantity of materials

Self-leveling floors come in different thicknesses; the average value is 1.5 – 3.0 mm. Also, the amount of material depends on the use of filler, or what quartz sand is used for.

The calculation is simple: 1 square meter of floor surface will require 1 liter of polymer mixture with a layer thickness of 1 mm. Accordingly, the requirement for the planned thickness is recalculated. The result must be multiplied by the density of the composition, which is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging. Typically it is 1.25 - 1.40 kg/liter. Wanting to reduce consumption, the manufacturer often includes filler in the composition, achieving a density of up to 1.70 kg/liter.

With a filler in the composition, plastic consumption is halved.

Preparing the base for a 3D floor

The main requirements for the supporting surface on which polymer floors are installed are their strict horizontality and humidity level. Therefore, for a concrete floor it is better to use a semi-dry screed, on top of which you need to make a leveling screed up to 5 mm thick. This will allow you to get a fairly flat horizontal surface. In the leveling screed material, fiber shavings should be used as a reinforcing additive. The finished floor must be thoroughly dried. Further:

• the surface of the concrete screed must be cleaned of dust with an industrial vacuum cleaner;
• remove grease stains and dirt, using solvents if necessary;
• when working with an old concrete base, you need to cut out the detected cracks and fill them with epoxy compound and only after that make a leveling screed;
• the porous surface must be treated with sealing - this is a solution with strong penetrating properties.

It is traditionally believed that the surface of an old wooden floor is not suitable for polymer self-leveling floors. However, with some preparation, this is quite possible in a residential environment. To do this you need:

• open the floor, inspect the joists, and, if necessary, replace or repair unusable ones;
• close the floor, further strengthen the fastening of the boards;
• remove old paint;
• seal cracks in the boards and gaps between them with wood putty, dry, sand the repair areas with emery cloth;
• remove dust from the surface, arrange a leveling self-leveling screed.

Further actions are the same as for concrete base, and for wood.

Surface primer

What kind of primer is needed for a specific floor material is always indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging of the base material. These recommendations must be followed scrupulously. Apply the primer to the surface with a fine-haired roller or, for small areas, paint brush. Quartz sand is added to the soil composition. This increases the adhesion surface of the main floor and the base. After the primed surface has dried, you need to apply a second layer of primer.

Application of polymer coating

Stirring of the finishing composition is carried out in accordance with the instructions on the packaging. In this case, it is necessary to achieve the maximum possible uniform mixing using a drill with an attachment.

After mixing is complete, the resulting mass must be poured onto the floor and spread over the supporting surface using the rule. After this, the applied layer is carefully rolled with a needle roller. This operation is necessary to remove air bubbles and distribute the plastic mass evenly over the floor surface. Moving on the floor during the pouring process is only possible on needle soles.

If signs of thickening of the composition appear, work with it should be suspended. On the surface of the layer you need to place decorative elements 3D floors: shells, coins, pebbles and other things that the performer wants to see on his floor.

The final transparent layer of coating is applied after the previous one has hardened. Movement on the newly created surface is possible on the second day after pouring, full operation – on the eighth day.

Application area

Self-leveling polymer floors can be used in premises of any purpose, both domestic, industrial and office.

The main limiting parameter for installing 3D floors is their high cost. But at the same time there are such positive points, as high strength, durability, as well as beauty of execution.

The simple technology of the device allows you to do them yourself. I wish you success!

Floors are one of the most difficult interior parts to repair and replace, as they require significant reworking of the entire room. It is temporarily impossible to live where the gender is changed, because there are problems with walking around the room. In addition, replacing floors is often accompanied by replacing baseboards, and this, in turn, often leads to damage to the wall finishes - in short, replacing the floor covering is almost equal to a complete renovation of the entire room. That is why maximum attention is paid to the choice of floor coverings.

Every customer wants such repairs to last at least a decade, or even longer, fortunately, modern choice materials contribute to this. Besides classic varieties wood, modern designs increasingly use various synthetic materials, and polymer self-leveling flooring has become a kind of fashion squeak in recent years.

What it is?

A polymer floor is fundamentally different from other types of floor coverings because it is not laid, but poured. The material is made from various polymers and is sold in liquid form. To fill this type of floor, first do a complete basis from concrete screed or any other dense material, on top of which thin layer poured liquid polymer. When it hardens after a certain time, it gives a perfectly smooth, and most importantly, even (due to the property of the liquid to form a uniform level) surface without the slightest joints.

Initially, this type of coating was used in public institutions with a huge turnover of people - for example, in airport lobbies. This application is due maximum ease of cleaning, caused by the integrity of the coating without any seams or joints, as well as the high strength of the material, which makes it possible not to close terminals and other premises of special public importance for long-term repairs.

However, private consumers quickly appreciated all the advantages of such a floor and began to be interested in the possibilities of pouring polymers on private property, and manufacturers promptly responded to the increasing demand and presented more affordable, but no less quality options for home and apartment.

Today, polymer self-leveling floors are available in any major city; they are successfully poured in rooms of any size and purpose.

At the same time, the main consumers are still industrial enterprises and public institutions, but for home use such coverage may be appropriate. Polymer floors are available in two main varieties, but if you consider the minor differences, you can count a huge number of different options, each of which has its own advantages and is optimally suited for a particular type of room.

Peculiarities

If for public institutions and industrial enterprises The use of such floors is almost a panacea for all ills, but not every owner still decides to use such a coating in an apartment. It is possible that important role the design aspect also plays a role in the selection process, after all, such a floor is not always able to create the necessary comfort or just fit into the desired style, but still, before installation, you need to once again go over the advantages and disadvantages of this material in the conditions of an ordinary home.

If you look at the advantages, they are very numerous and will make many people urgently interested in the prices of this product. Here are the main advantages of using this type of flooring at home:

• High elasticity ensures that the floor is practically not subject to any mechanical damage– it can easily survive even a small earthquake, because if necessary it can stretch and shrink.
• Chemical resistance allows the floor covering not to change its appearance even under the influence of any aggressive chemicals, from detergents of any type to others accidentally spilled.
• The polymers underlying such a floor can continue the phrase “water wears away stone, but self-leveling flooring does not.” Moreover, due to the integrity of the seamless coating, it is also excellent waterproofing - even if there is a flood in the apartment, the neighbors below will not know about it.
• The polymer coating is non-flammable and therefore fully complies with fire safety standards.

• This type of floor is very easy to maintain because it can be used in any type detergents, and also prevents dirt from getting into the seams, which simply do not exist.
• The service life of a high-quality polymer coating, even in conditions of the highest daily traffic, is no less than ten years, and in an apartment this is an almost eternal option.
• Many people fear that the high smoothness of the surface will result in slipperiness, but in fact this is not the case at all.
• Modern self-leveling floors and the technique of pouring them make it possible to achieve a very noticeable artistic effect.

All of the listed properties literally force you to immediately give them preference. However, there is not a single construction or finishing material, which would not have some disadvantages. Naturally, self-leveling floors also have them, and although there are not so many of them, they are serious enough to deter most potential clients:

• Truly high quality costs big money, and although in recent years developers have done everything possible to reduce the cost of the material, it is still more expensive than the vast majority of analogues. An attempt to save money, by the way, can be fraught, since the cheapest types of polymer-based floors, judging by reviews, fade quite quickly in bright sunlight.
• The high cost concerns not only the material itself, but also the work performed. Although the liquid used for pouring can level the level on its own, due to its high cost, special attention is usually paid to creating a perfectly level and balanced base. It's quite expensive, and it also takes a large number of time, not to mention the fact that for a high-quality result you need confidence in the high professionalism and dedication of the workers.

• Polymer flooring is a very durable type of repair. It is durable and reliable so much that no one has yet come up with an adequate way to dismantle such a coating. Consequently, if the self-leveling floor gets tired, or, worse, wears out to the point of obvious need for replacement, a new coating will have to be done directly on top of it, which in the conditions of most standard old apartments that do not have very high ceilings will lead to a noticeable reduction in space. And if replacing one self-leveling floor with another, as is done in airports or industrial workshops, will take a maximum of a couple of millimeters, then replacing with parquet will take no less than a couple of centimeters, which can even force you to redo the doors. This is a significant disadvantage of such coverage.
• Pouring a polymer floor is a difficult task, since the material is very demanding in terms of hardening conditions. For a perfectly flat surface, it is necessary that the base humidity does not exceed 4%. The permissible temperature fluctuation in the room during hardening is two degrees in one direction or another.

In other words, normal filling is only possible in a sealed room and stable weather conditions.

Kinds

Self-leveling floors, also known as 3D, are now available in great variety species, which helps to more accurately select the properties that are optimal in certain conditions. Although not all of them seem suitable for home use, some consideration must be given to each type to prove that a particular variety is not suitable for residential use.

Among the classic coatings that have been used for several decades, we know epoxy floors and floors made of polyurethane. These two varieties are the most common, and they are usually the clearest example of how opposite properties can be different types self-leveling polymer coating. The epoxy variety is famous for its highest resistance to any damage, both mechanical and chemical.

Even a slightly less shiny and attractive surface does not stop customers, forcing them to purchase such a coating for finishing industrial workshops and enterprises, laboratories, and other similar premises.

The polyurethane version is also amazingly resistant, but is still somewhat inferior in this component, but it looks a little more attractive, and most importantly, it is less likely to be rubbed off by feet. That is why it is actively used in offices and other public institutions with high traffic, and also looks more relevant at home.

Among other varieties it is worth highlighting methyl methacrylate and cement-acrylic flooring, which are peculiar new analogues of epoxy and polyurethane. In general, today's self-leveling floors are made from the most unexpected materials. There is even a variety made from urea, which, by the way, is considered easy to install due to the method of application through spraying.

If we talk about reliability, it is usually not recommended to choose polyester-based flooring, since it is with this material that problems with quality and durability arise.

As for appearance, polymer floors are usually made colored with the addition of colored sand. As a result, such a coating can even resemble a wood-polymer floor in appearance, so the problem of fitting such an ultra-modern material into classic designs looks almost solved. Moreover, in some cases you can also purchase a transparent composition - in this case, creating a base for a coating from natural wood, although more often they are used simply to create the top protective layer of the self-leveling floor.

Thanks to this solution you can get everything best benefits polymer filling with an appearance that uses literally any decorative inserts from the most unexpected materials and components.

Which ones are better?

You should choose a self-leveling floor taking into account the purposes for which it will be used. Since we are generally talking about typical home conditions for our country, in terms of their operational and aesthetic qualities, polyurethane and cement-acrylic mixtures are most suitable for finishing. But polyester floor coverings should be used with great caution - reviews indicate that the quality of such material often leaves much to be desired.

Another thing is that even a private customer for his own needs can order the floor that is considered more oriented towards industrial needs. This need arises in a situation where the question of finishing the floor in a garage is open - there this surface experiences significant mechanical loads due to a passing or standing car, and at the same time, some aggressive chemical compounds are used, including oils and much more.

Again, the use of all these substances does not contribute to the creation perfect cleanliness, therefore, the floor in such a room should be designed for maximum ease of cleaning and minimal contamination, and also have high chemical resistance. Therefore, materials based on epoxy resin or methyl methacrylate.

The base, which is almost always an ordinary concrete or cement screed, does not put forward any special requirements to the type of flooring, but you can start from the appearance of the finished floor. It should be noted that the most commonly used options are those called "liquid linoleum", since when frozen they really resemble this finishing material.

To be honest, the imitation of any other types of finishing turns out to be very conditional and can hardly be called plausible, so the option with such “linoleum” should inspire the most confidence.

How to choose?

The choice of self-leveling floor components is quite complex, since the materials are numerous and varied. For example, for a concrete base you should first select a reliable waterproofing material, cement M-200 or higher, as well as prepare and lay the mixture itself so that its moisture content does not exceed 4%. In some cases, two-component floors are made, when the base is a wood-polymer composite, which looks very much like ordinary wood, and an ordinary colorless polymer floor is poured on top.

Although home conditions are unlikely to involve the same number of hazards and stresses as in an industrial workshop, a combination of different types of polymer base is usually recommended for residential use. In the hallway, bathroom and kitchen - where there is an increased amount of dust and dirt, increased humidity, and there is also a high probability of spilling caustic or hot liquids, it is recommended to use epoxy compounds.

Very important for residential premises aesthetic appeal, and there are much fewer different strength tests expected here, so here the choice more often falls on decorative polyurethane floors.

At the same time, you should always choose antistatic mixtures containing quartz sand for your home, because the accumulation of small charges of electricity is not conducive to health and also attracts dust.

It must be said that Self-leveling flooring in the interior does not go well with any wall decoration, and this point also needs to be taken into account, because changing a flooded floor covering is very problematic. IN living rooms looks best in combination with polyurethane on the floor decorative putty on the walls. Even the expensive ones will seem normal vinyl wallpapers, but here are the ordinary ones paper wallpaper, will most likely be inappropriate. For the kitchen in combination with epoxy Suitable for floors or classic tile, or colored plaster, with which the self-leveling floor will be combined in the same way as laminate, which is often imitated by it.

In some cases, private farm owners prefer to refuse classic materials even for exterior finishing and for the street they use not slabs, but a self-leveling self-leveling floor, which is well suited for pouring garden paths. Here, methyl methacrylate will show itself in the best possible way, as it is unpretentious to temperature changes and hardens faster than its colleagues.

Thanks to this unusual solution paths in the garden will always look fresh and clean, their color will delight you for a long time. In this case, you can use a small tile as a base.

Required Tools

In practice, pouring a self-leveling floor is not such a difficult process. It doesn't require any special equipment, so that's it more men consider it necessary to carry out this type of repair themselves. To complete the task, the master will need:

• A large container for preparing the mixture for pouring - usually a volume equal to at least two medium buckets is assumed.
• A drill and a special attachment for it, allowing you to mix any liquid mixtures. There is a catch here, since you don’t need any drill, but only one that allows you to regulate the speed, because too active mixing risks splashing the future floor onto the walls. Also, not just any attachment will work – it needs to mix the mass in the container right down to the very bottom.

• A set of spatulas adapted for applying the mixture both in the main part and in the most inaccessible places.
• A special needle roller, which is used to roll the future floor surface again after application. This is done in order to remove small air bubbles from the mass, which will certainly form during the pouring process. If they are not removed before the mass hardens, this will have an extremely negative impact on the strength and durability of the material and can lead to cracking even with minor mechanical impact.
• A chemical solvent needed to remove contaminants left behind by the pouring liquid from used instruments. There is no universal solvent suitable for all types of self-leveling floors, so it must be selected based on the instructions indicated on the can with the self-leveling floor mixture.

• Shoes with studded soles are an important part of the job because even during the pouring process, repairmen will have to walk on a freshly poured surface, and only studded soles can reduce exposure to the liquid material.
• Most experts also recommend purchasing several pairs of ordinary rubber gloves in advance, which will help protect the skin from exposure to all the components used in the process.

Preparation

The mixture, which in the future forms the floor, is applied to a previously prepared surface, which is most often concrete. Such a surface is required minimum level humidity and ideal horizontality, therefore, when laying a new screed, the process is performed in two steps - the first layer is a semi-dry mass, and only on top of it is a thin leveling layer (within half a centimeter). Only after the floor is well high x, you can proceed to further actions.

In some cases, you can take an old concrete screed as a basis, but then it is first carefully cleaned of dust and any other contaminants, and any visible cracks are carefully sealed using a special epoxy compound.

In this case, by the way, you also cannot do without pouring an additional leveling screed.

Old wooden floors can also be used without dismantling. The first step in this case is to carefully inspect the floor, replace or repair any worn components, and strengthen their fastenings. If the floor has been painted, old paint V mandatory deleted any unevenness and cracks are filled with a special putty for wood. After the putty has dried, the surface of the old floor is carefully sanded to a state of perfect smoothness, after which the dust is removed from it using an industrial vacuum cleaner, and the same leveling screed is poured on top.

After this, the surface is primed. The primer is selected depending on what type of self-leveling floor is selected - any conscientious manufacturer should indicate on the packaging how to choose the correct primer in this case. The primer is applied in two layers using a fine-pile roller, or sometimes with an ordinary paint brush. The second coat of primer is applied only after the first has completely dried.

In order to increase the efficiency of priming, it is recommended to add quartz sand to the primer.

Manufacturing technology

You can fill the self-leveling floor with your own hands, but provided that the instructions are carefully studied and will be followed to the last letter.

Filling with polymer occurs on average at a thickness of 1.5-3 millimeters, but this, of course, is only true if concrete screed was made with high quality and is truly horizontal. Material consumption per 1 m2 is calculated based on the fact that one liter of liquid mass is a square meter of surface covered with a layer of one millimeter. At the same time, the thickness of the layer may vary somewhat, because the liquid flows into any seams and holes, so you need to purchase poured floors with a reserve.

The first step in preparing the mixture is stirring, which must be done as thoroughly as possible until the mass is completely homogeneous. When the finishing composition is ready, application begins - the liquid is simply poured onto the floor and accelerated in all directions using a rule or any other similar tool. Air bubbles will probably form in the filled layer. – they must be removed using a specially prepared needle roller.

At this stage, you can move around the room only with the help of shoes with needle soles - the mass will fill the small holes left by such spikes, but the mark from ordinary shoes would probably remain as a long-lasting memory for the owner of the room.

When the composition begins to visually thicken, its spreading over the surface and rolling with a needle roller is stopped - it is time to aesthetically decorate the coating. IN modern design The installation of any foreign elements into the self-leveling floor is actively used, including small pebbles and shells, as well as coins and any other decorative elements that, when hardened, will be firmly “glued” into the material.

Such a prefabricated “pie” allows a person with creative approach turn a rather boring floor covering into a real work of art that you will never want to change, which will immediately solve the problem of the difficulty of replacing such a covering.

After bottom layer When the polymer with decorations sticking out of it has completely hardened, a second layer is applied - usually completely transparent. Its task is to cover protruding elements to create smooth surface, so the calculation of the amount of consumables should also take into account the size of “extraneous” decorations. Moving on this layer must be even more careful because it is the immediate surface of the future floor.

Craftsmen, for their own needs, are allowed to move on the hardening outer layer already on the second day after its application, but when the pouring leaves the workers completely satisfied, they need to wait another week until the material has completely hardened. After this, he is ready for all those difficult tests that he was created to withstand.

And others wooden materials on solid foundation, metal, after applying a special primer.

In this article we will talk about how to make self-leveling polymer floors in an apartment, as well as in a garage.

Types of polymer bases

The synthetic coating used in homes, apartments and offices is based on one of the polymers.

Epoxy resin - together with additional components creates a durable, abrasion-resistant and chemical exposure coating.

A smooth, elastic floor can withstand any deformation.

Methyl methacrylate floors are created by mixing acrylic resins and hardeners. They are highly resistant to ultraviolet radiation and moisture resistance; with the help of dyes, unique color combinations. The floor hardens in 2 hours, and its service life is up to 40 years. In front of everyone positive characteristics This type of self-leveling floor is rarely used, the reason for this is the high cost and harmful fumes generated during the pouring process.

Features and Benefits:

1. Hygienic and easy to care for.
2. Resistance to mechanical stress.
3. Seamless filling technology.
4. Possibility to make polymer floors yourself.
5. Variety of colors.
6. Immunity to chemical reagents.
7. The high hardening speed of the self-leveling floor reduces repair time.
8. Durability of use.

Preparing the base

The main requirements for preparing the base are correcting defects and cleaning the surface. If there is old coating, it must be completely removed. The entire area of ​​the subfloor is thoroughly cleaned of debris and dust (you should use a vacuum cleaner). After cleaning, existing defects become clearly visible. Existing cracks and cracks are puttied, the protrusions are knocked down. The optimal method of surface treatment is the use of grinding machine. If the polymer floor has to be poured onto ceramic tiles, its surface is deprived of smoothness with sandpaper or sandpaper.

It is necessary to measure the horizontal level of the base: if its difference does not exceed 4 mm, then you can start making a polymer floor. If there are significant level fluctuations, the surface will have to be leveled sand-cement screed and postpone further work until it dries.

In the vast majority of cases, poor-quality pouring of a self-leveling floor is caused by a poorly prepared base, which causes peeling.

After the screed has dried, a thorough primer is required, which increases adhesion between the base and the self-leveling floor, and also reduces the absorption of the polymer mixture, and, therefore, the consumption of the expensive composition. It is better to apply the primer in two layers, leaving a break of at least 4 hours between them. The composition is applied with a roller. To prevent the liquid mixture of the self-leveling floor from leaking near the wall, this area is taped with damper tape. Also, wooden slats are installed along the perimeter of the room, which will preserve space for the expansion joint.

Preparation of the solution

To work you will need:

• Drill with attachment.
• Wide spatula.
• Roller with a needle insert on a long handle.
• Big bucket.

It's time to prepare the working solution. This process is described in the instructions on the packaging; to obtain excellent results, you should strictly follow the manufacturer's recommendations. To create a polymer floor you will need two components, one of which is a hardener. Mixing takes place in a large container. The reaction process generates heat, so it is recommended to lower the mixing container into a container of cold water in advance to slow down the reaction somewhat.

Beginners can mix the composition in a bucket, pouring two components alternately. An attachment with spatulas is selected for the drill, and a low mixer speed is used when working. The mixing process takes about two minutes.

Installation

The floor should be poured at a temperature not lower than +10°C; at a lower temperature, chemical processes will slow down and the polymer will not spread well over the surface of the base. Heat will cause the components to cure too quickly and will not allow for a quality pour.

During the hardening process, the floor should not be exposed to drafts or direct sunlight. The top layer of the polymer coating should not dry before the rest of the mass, otherwise cracks will appear.

The liquid polymer is poured in a corner away from the entrance and is helped to spread over the surface with a wooden leveler. The work is carried out in strips, without stopping, the composition quickly hardens in the container. It’s good to involve an assistant in this process, because it will be difficult for one person without experience to do everything. During the pouring process, the solution is rolled with a needle roller, which removes air bubbles. The work ends at the entrance to the room. You should not walk on fresh composition, otherwise shoe marks will remain.

After the composition dries (the process, depending on the polymer, takes several hours or days), remove wooden planks along the perimeter, and the seams are filled with sealant and covered with plinth. Finishing layer The self-leveling floor is coated with two layers of varnish; it gives the surface shine and smoothness, and also increases wear resistance. Using different types of varnish: matte, clear, glossy or colored, you can achieve the desired effect.

• thin-layer polymer paint coatings;
• concrete impregnation;
• thick-layer polymer coatings with sand.

Most economical option self-leveling floor – polyurethane impregnation. This is one of the most reliable types of garage coatings. Externally it resembles varnished concrete. To obtain a more attractive floor covering, color markings can be applied to it.

The first step is to clean the rough surface. If the floor was wooden, then you need to dismantle it along with the logs. By clearing the base of debris and dust, you can evaluate the quality of the subfloor. If there are cracks and chips on it, then this is a bad signal indicating the destruction of the material. All damage to the screed must be repaired.

In some cases, before pouring the self-leveling floor in the garage, you need to perform cement screed. This is advisable if the floor is very broken, there are large differences in height, or if there is no screed as such.

If you do need to make a screed, then pay special attention to the arrangement of waterproofing. In addition, to improve the strength characteristics of the floor in the garage, which is very important in this room, make reinforcement. To do this, you can use galvanized mesh laid in a solution.

After the screed has dried or the existing subfloor has been cleaned, it needs to be primed. For what?

1. The primer will improve the strength of the base.
2. This ensures adhesion of the screed to the polymer floor.
3. Protecting the surface from the appearance/reproduction of microorganisms.

Apply damper tape around the perimeter of the garage, which will serve as a shock-absorbing layer. This is done to the height of pouring the polymer floor.

Now you need to install the beacons/guides. If you have small garage, then you can use corners, pipes or metal profiles as guides. Place them so that the top edges of the guides are in the same plane. For these purposes, you can use long self-tapping screws. Divide the floor into square/rectangular sections. Screw the screws into the tops of the rectangles/squares. To do this, you first need to drill out the tie and insert it into the dowel holes. The beacon should be raised as needed. Do this with a solution.

Now you should prepare the polymer mixture according to the instructions provided by the manufacturer. Mix it thoroughly. To do this, you can use an electric drill with a special mixer attachment. It is important that the drill operates at low speeds, otherwise many air bubbles will form in the mixture. And this will negatively affect the quality of the polymer floor.

Pouring the polymer is quick because it dries quickly. That's why best method to complete this work - prepare the mixture based on a rectangle/square, aligned with the markers - fill it and level it.

After pouring is completed, you need to roll the mass with a spiked roller. In this way, air and excess moisture trapped in the polymer will be removed. The self-leveling floor can only be used when it is completely dry. The time it takes depends on the temperature in the garage.

There is no need to artificially dry the floor. When the room warms up, a crust forms on the polymer. In this case, the thickness of the self-leveling floor will remain viscous. As a result, the floor in the garage will simply sag over time under the weight of the car.

The work of installing a polymer floor has many complexities and nuances, but it is quite possible to do it yourself. Training videos will help you follow the technology.

Video

The process of pouring the self-leveling floor can be seen in the video below:

Photo