Technological map for the production of wooden doors. Sequence diagram of the technological process for manufacturing door blocks with panel leaves. Process flow diagram. Calculation of the required amount of equipment
During construction work, major renovation apartments or houses sometimes have to deal with the choice, replacement, purchase and installation of door blocks. Even a non-professional builder or repairman can install door blocks. To begin with, before you begin installing these necessary building elements, consider their main features and varieties.
Classification of door blocks
Strictly speaking, a door block is a structure consisting of a frame and a leaf, connected to each other using fasteners. Blocks can be divided into the following categories depending on their parameters and characteristics:
- by location and size (length and width) of the standard door leaf (external – 200*90 mm, interior – 200*80 mm, for bathrooms – 200*70 mm);
- according to the shape of the box (four-sided - for external doors, three-sided - for interior doors and bathrooms);
- by the number of leaves (block with single-, double- and one-and-a-half-leaf doors);
- according to the material from which they are made (wood, metal, MDF, glass, combined, etc.).
Standard door set
To install the block correctly, it must contain the following set of components (minimum standard set):
- box;
- canvas;
- set of platbands;
- fasteners;
- set of hinges;
- pen;
- mortise lock.
List of materials and tools required for installation of door blocks
To install the blocks yourself you will need following materials and tools:
- polyurethane foam;
- chisel;
- drill or hammer drill;
- waterproofing materials (roofing felt);
- resin for wood processing;
- jointer;
- hammer;
- building level and plumb line;
- wooden wedges;
- wooden plugs for wall masonry;
- additional fasteners (anchor bolts, screws, nails, steel brushes, turboprops, etc.);
- construction adhesive of the “liquid nails” type;
- pencil or marker for marking;
- construction tape.
Installation of external door blocks
As an example, consider the algorithm for installing an outdoor unit made of wood and consisting of a box and a single-floor panel. It should be noted that when choosing wooden blocks for their manufacture and installation, you should choose fairly dry wood (humidity from 8% to 14% according to GOST).
In the case of the manufacture of wooden door frames, blanks of the following sizes are mainly used: thickness from 50 to 60 mm, width - 100 mm.
In general, the installation process of outdoor units includes the following steps:
- box assembly;
- adjusting the fabric to the edges;
- installation of hinges;
- box installation;
- threshold setting;
- installation of platbands;
- insertion of devices (lock, handles, etc.).
Door frame assembly
The component parts (or quarters) of the structure usually have a tenon connection between them. It must be glued and have a very tight fit. However, it is necessary to check the joints assembled box using a building level and a plumb line.
Fitting the door leaf to the frame. To fit the canvas, its edges are touched to the edges of the box with a jointer, starting from the edge that will be attached to the hinges. When fitted correctly, the door leaf fits snugly to the edges of the frame without visible gaps or recesses.
Installation of hinges
The canvas is hung using loops measuring 125-175 mm. Often such loops are also called card loops. The hinges are mounted to the door leaf with self-tapping screws on the hanging side, at a distance of 150-300 mm from the edges of the door leaf (top and bottom). Sockets for loops are made using a chisel. Their depth should correspond to the thickness of the loop card, but not more, in order to avoid the loops being torn off during operation of the block. During installation, the bouts (protruding parts of the hinges) must be positioned so that the axis of the lower and upper installed hinges coincided. In this case, the canvas will not warp and open spontaneously. After attaching the loops to the canvas, mark their locations on the box itself. Then the canvas is dismantled from the hinges and the hinges are installed separately on the box in the marked places. Door panels are removed before plastering and other work is completed. finishing works.
Door frame installation
It is preferable to install the outer frame before finishing work is completed and before the floor covering is completed. This will allow you to accurately complete the above work. Before installing the structure in a wall opening (provided that the walls are made of stone or brick), the edges of the quarters of the box in contact with the walls are treated with resin in order to protect them from rotting; these places are covered with roofing felt or other waterproofing material.
The box prepared in this way is inserted into the doorway, the ends of which are aligned and prepared for installing the block. The ends of the box are mounted into the floor to a depth determined by the structure of the floor, and they are connected with nails to the mounting (spacer) board. This board should be located below floor level, but also treated with resin and waterproofed. The box itself is mounted into the wall opening using wooden wedges driven between the box and the wall. Then you need to additionally fix the box in the wall opening. This can be done by using steel brushes (a type of nail) or anchor bolts, which are driven into pre-prepared wooden sockets in the masonry itself (a hammer drill should be used to insert these sockets into the masonry). After this, the cracks and gaps between the wall and the frame are filled with polyurethane foam.
Using construction foam Special wooden spacers are installed in the box, an average of 12 hours are allowed for the foam to dry completely, then the excess foam is cut off.
Each vertical quarter of the box is mounted to the opening with steel pipettes or anchor bolts in at least two places. The fastenings should be located no more than 1.5 m from each other.
After installing the box door block carry out final finishing plastering work.
Installing the threshold yourself.
To installed and prepared cutting board and attach the bottom quarter of the box to the vertical quarters. The threshold is ready. Door leaf can be hung on a mounted box.
Installation of platbands
After completing the installation of the box, platbands are installed along its perimeter (except for the bottom, of course) from the outside and inside, provided that this operation allows us to carry out the size (thickness) of the wall opening. Place the platbands at a distance of 8-15 mm from the edge of the box and connect them at the corners at 45° (at the angle). The correct installation of platbands is checked construction tools(level, plumb). They are mounted on a plinth near the floor. The platbands are attached to the box with self-tapping screws, nails or construction adhesive. Visible gaps when installing platbands are unacceptable.
Installation of door devices (mortise lock, handles)
This The final stage block installation. The handles are placed at a height of 0.8-1.1 m from the floor level and placed in such a way that when the door is operating, the handle does not touch the frame.
Mortise locks are usually located at a distance of 0.9-0.95 m from the floor level. Here you need to make sure that mutual arrangement The lock and door handle were ergonomic and convenient. The socket for a mortise lock is drilled with a drill (perforator), using a drill bit equal in diameter to the thickness of the socket. After this, clean out the nest with a chisel under the lock. A lock is installed in the prepared socket and secured with screws or self-tapping screws.
Then they mark and drill out a place for the locking plate in the box itself. The selected location for the lock plate must correspond to the position of the built-in lock. It should be noted that the lock strip must be embedded flush with the edge of the frame, and the lock must be flush with the edge of the door itself.
The main requirement when installing various types of door devices is to carry out the work without gaps, chips and deformations of the wood.
Installation of interior door blocks
As in the case of an external door block, in general the process of installing interior blocks made of wood and having a single-leaf leaf consists of the following steps:
- box assembly;
- adjusting the canvas to the edge of the box;
- installation of hinges;
- box installation;
- installation of platbands;
- insertion of door devices (lock, handles, bolts, etc.).
It should be noted that the installation of interior door blocks is usually carried out in the same way as the installation of external blocks, but after installation flooring and bypassing the stage of setting the threshold, because its device is only advisable when transitioning from interior space to the outside. Accordingly, the box in this case will be three-sided.
When installing door blocks in bathrooms, all cavities and sockets cut out for devices should be opened with varnish to prevent rotting processes in conditions of high humidity. In this case, it is advisable to use fasteners that are resistant to corrosion.
Features of installation of some types of door blocks
The material of the block sometimes has certain specifics, which makes appropriate adjustments to the standard installation algorithm. For example, MDF door blocks have the following installation features:
- The installation of such blocks should be carried out after finishing work, because High humidity during this work negatively affects the condition of MDF.
- Installation of an MDF door frame to a wall opening should be carried out using special fasteners (long nails, self-tapping screws, turbo screws) and construction foam.
- MDF blocks are mainly used as interior blocks. However, it is not recommended to use them in rooms with high humidity due to the characteristics of this type of material.
- These blocks are usually supplied fully assembled finished form, and the process of their assembly and installation, naturally, excludes the fitting of the canvas to the box.
- To disguise the fasteners, the delivery package of the door block usually also includes decorative elements (panels, plugs, etc.).
The easiest to install are metal blocks, of course, provided they are manufactured and assembled with high quality. Their installation algorithm has the following features:
- there is no fitting of the canvas to the box and no preparatory manipulations such as treatment with anti-rot preparations;
- for silent operation metal doors it is necessary to install rubber seals around the perimeter of the door;
- installation of this kind of doors can be carried out before finishing work;
- the metal box should be secured to the wall opening with anchor bolts and polyurethane foam should be used.
It should be noted that doors and door blocks made of metal are mainly used as exterior doors.
It is also worth focusing on the quality of the purchased door blocks, namely: the best option for external door blocks, for example, in an apartment or house, is to install two door blocks - the first metal and the second solid wood. It is optimal to use entirely wooden structures as interior blocks. They can be adjusted and adjusted. And by itself natural wood provides the widest scope when, given a certain financial opportunity, you can use different types of wood, including valuable ones, use carvings, stained glass windows, etc.
Doors made of MDF are significantly inferior to wooden doors in terms of moisture and wear resistance, but this option doors is quite simple, inexpensive and provides ample opportunities to choose options for the finished door leaf, for example, with decorative inserts, stained glass windows, etc. Naturally, the final choice regarding which door unit to purchase and install depends on the requirements placed on it, the financial capabilities and preferences of the customer.
In the production of door panels, the hot pressing method is used. A distinctive feature of this method is its high productivity. Due to high temperature the glue between the door leaf parts quickly cures. One of distinctive features modern production, is the use of honeycomb core - the most promising material for the manufacture of ultra-light and durable structures. By placing honeycomb core between the skins, the rigidity of the structure increases sharply by more than 100 times.
Honeycomb core is one of the most economical modern materials currently available. construction materials. Considerable strength with low weight, environmental friendliness, good heat and sound insulation, the ability to withstand shock loads, high processing technology are the main factors that provide high quality products.
Honeycombs, depending on the cell size, cardboard density, vary in their physical and mechanical properties. For doors, honeycombs with a cell size of 45 mm, 35 mm or less, and a compressive strength in the stretched state of at least 0.5 kg/cm 2 (GOST 23233-78) are mainly used.
Innovative cell filling technology is now used in wooden structures such as doors, furniture panels, interior elements of premises, shipping pallets, as well as in aircraft construction and the manufacture of sports equipment.
When manufacturing door panels by hot pressing using honeycomb core, special attention is paid to such technological parameters as temperature, time, pressure. Strict adherence to them allows us to obtain high-quality products.
Door leaf interior door consists of the following parts:
- Frame
- Bars for inserting fittings (hinges, handle, lock)
- Sheathing
- Honeycomb
Chipboards are used to make the frame ( particle board GOST 10632-89), MDF (medium density fiberboard GOST 27680-88), or a combination thereof, depending on the wishes of the customer. Frame parts are made glued in width and length. Gluing of wood along the width is carried out at smooth fugu according to GOST 9330-76, and in length - on a toothed tenon according to GOST 19414-74.
In the locations of hinges, handles and other devices, the longitudinal bars of the frame are increased in width due to additional installation bars. In a frame made of chipboard - with a lock and hinges. When processing a door frame part, thickness tolerance is very important and should be reduced to a minimum. In the lower and upper bars of the frame, channels are made in the form of holes or grooves for the release of water vapor from the glue, in order to avoid deformation of the canvas from hot vapors and moisture.
The honeycomb core is stretched according to the dimensions of the door frame, installed in the frame and secured with staples to the frame. The thickness of the filler is selected in accordance with the thickness of the frame so that during pressing there is no swelling or dips on the surface of the skins.
The main function of the honeycomb core is to fill the void between the skins and give rigidity to the sheet, to prevent deformation of the skins on both sides of the sheet, and thus obtain a uniformly flat surface.
For the manufacture of sheathing, TSN-40 is used, HDF laminated with decorative film. Parts are prepared with an allowance to fit the frame for subsequent formatting to the final size. Application of hot-curing resin or PVA glue, depending on the model being manufactured, onto the frame of the door leaf, with a fixed honeycomb core, is carried out using special glue-applying equipment. The most widely used hot-curing resin is KF, since it is convenient to use and requires more low pressure press and is also a cheap material. The frame is laid on one skin, the second skin is laid on top and placed in the press. The press is set to a pressure that creates a force on the surface of the pressed product that is slightly greater than the compressive strength of the honeycomb used.
The blanks, after they have been aged and completely cooled, are processed to the required sizes at a formatting and cutting center.
Molded profile products.
The door frame beam, platband and additional element are also made from chipboard, MDF, or a combination of them, again, depending on the type of batch being manufactured and the order being executed. On special equipment The workpieces are processed to the required geometric shapes and sizes and veneered (wrapped) with decorative films. The process of laminating molded products is essentially identical to the process of laminating door panels. The only difference is that in the first case the parts have a complex geometric shape, and in the second they are absolutely flat. And, accordingly, different equipment is used for these purposes.
All operations of the technological process are performed on high-tech machines of imported and domestic production.
In the production of all types of products, several developments have been applied regarding individual operations and materials used and which are the intellectual property of the enterprise.
Artistic glass processing
Before giving each individuality and uniqueness, our designers develop original design for each model. In this case, the buyer can directly participate in the creation of the design or ornament he needs. We have the opportunity to make any of your fantasies come true.
For these purposes, two types of technology are used at the glass production site artistic treatment glass
- Matting. This is sandblasting the workpiece the right size V special cameras or glass processing with matting paste. There are solid matting and with a pattern. In the latter case, in order for the design to be highlighted on the total area of the glass, a stencil of the required shape is used.
- Fusing. This is the process of sintering pre-cut glass fragments of a pattern onto a substrate. High-temperature furnaces are used for these purposes. Elements of the design and substrate are cut from special glass of various colors.
Other materials:
Manufacturing of door blocks
Door leaves of panel and frame construction are manufactured mainly at specialized woodworking enterprises, but at the same time, at some construction sites, in order to quickly provide them with carpentry, door leaves are manufactured on site, using non-standard equipment.
An approximate diagram of the technological process for manufacturing Door blocks with frame doors (Fig. 87) stipulates that the cutting of lumber into blanks will be carried out on circular saws, and milling - on jointing and four-sided longitudinal milling machines.
Sockets in vertical bars are selected on a chain mortising machine. To cut tenons, a tenon cutting machine is used. Selection of profiles, selection of darkness and other similar operations are performed on a milling machine.
Preliminary assembly of products with fitting of parts is carried out at the workplace, and final assembly is carried out in an assembly machine. The perimeter of the door is processed on a formatting machine.
In the absence of the above machines, door parts are processed on combined machines using electric or hand tools.
Let's consider the procedure for processing a vertical block of a frame (paneled) door, having a clean size of 44x94x2000 mm. The allowance for milling and jointing on both sides for blanks made of coniferous wood should be 5.5 mm, and for facing on both sides along the length of the parts - 40 mm. Thus, the dimensions of the bar in the workpiece are (44+6) and (94+6) and (2000+40) or 50xx100x2040 mm. Based on these dimensions, take a board 50 mm thick and mark the length and width of the block, after which it is cut out with an electric saw or bow saw.
After sawing, the block is processed on four sides with an electric planer or a planer and a jointer. When planing, it is necessary to ensure that the block is rectangular in shape and has no curvature or distortions. On the planed block, using a square or thicknesser, mark the sockets for the tenons, for which the block is placed with the edge up on the table and, using a square, a line is drawn on the edge with a pencil.
The bars are marked according to the diagram shown in Fig. 88. Stepping back 20 mm from the end of the block, draw line 1 with a pencil; Having measured 32 mm, draw line 2; at a distance of 140 cm from the second line - line 3. After this, having measured the required distances, lines 4, 5, 6, 7 and 8 are applied. Then lines 12, 13 are applied at the ends of the bar at a distance of 12 mm from each edge.
The intersections of transverse and longitudinal lines form nests 9 on the edge. Select nests with a chisel, making sure that the chisel does not go beyond the markings. This operation can be performed with an electric chisel, then cleaning the surfaces of the sockets with a chisel. It is necessary to monitor the accuracy of nest sampling. If the nest is larger, the thorn will not fit tightly; if the nest is smaller, the thorn will not fit into it.
Then a groove is selected in the block using a tongue and groove, and a profile is selected using a planer (moulder). After all the bars and panels have been made, the door is pre-assembled.
After preliminary assembly and adjustment, the door is disassembled, the tenons and lugs are lubricated with glue, and then reassembled and crimped in an assembly machine. Additionally, dowels are placed on the glue in the corners.
The bars of the box are also assembled with glue and secured in the corners with dowels. The correct assembly of the boxes is checked from corner to corner with a ruler and square.
The assembled door panels must have an allowance around the perimeter for processing with a jointer or electric planer of 2...3 mm per side.
It is recommended to embed door locks at a height of 1000 mm from the bottom of the door leaf manually or with a power tool. The nests are marked using a square or P.E. Kuskov’s template (Fig. 89), made of wood and plywood. The top strip of the template is made from a milled board 10...12 mm thick, and the side strips are made from plywood. The side planks are nailed to the top.
P 
When marking the socket for the lock, template 2 is placed on the edge of the Door so that its horizontal axis 1 is at a distance of 1000 mm from the bottom of the door, after which the socket and the position of the keyhole 3 are marked with a pencil. Then the socket is selected with a chisel and the keyhole is drilled. The socket for the lock can be selected on a horizontal drilling machine or with an electric drill and an electric shaper in several steps.
In the box you need to select a place for the locking plate with a chisel. It is marked by applying the bar to the block of the box and tracing the outline with a pencil.
Locks are cut into the vertical bars of frame doors, but above or below the middle horizontal bar. It is not allowed to embed locks against the middle bars, as this will compromise the strength of the tenon joint.
Then they adjust the door leaf to the frame, cleaning individual places if necessary.
The assembled box is placed on a special table or workbench, and the door is carefully adjusted to the quarters of the box so that it lies flush with the edge of the box. After fitting, the door should have a gap of 2 mm between the trim and a quarter of the frame, which is necessary for normal operation of the door.
In double-leaf doors, before fitting into the frame, rebates are first selected along the door leaf using a milling machine or with a hand tool, then the doors are folded in the fold areas (rebated) and driven in the usual way. The gap at the alignment points should be 2 mm. After adjustment, they put the strips on glue and screws and hang the doors on the hinges. Sockets for hinges are selected at the workplace using the Pavlikhin template.
Each canvas is hung on two or three loops, and the bouts of the upper and lower loops should be on the same vertical axis. The loops are positioned as shown in Fig. 90.
Entrance doors to buildings are hung on hinges PN 1-150, PN2-150, PNE-130, PNZ-150 (GOST 5088-78), internal doors - on hinges PN4, having a size of 98 mm.
After fitting and hanging the door, the entire unit is checked, necessary places clean out the sag. The door should not spring when opening and closing; It should rotate freely on its hinges. Warping, distortions of more than 2 mm in any direction, untreated areas and roughness are not allowed in the door block. Ready block embroidered with packaging strips and sent for painting and glazing.
Slide 1
GOU KO POO "KITiS"
Topic: “TECHNOLOGICAL PROCESS OF MANUFACTURING A PANEL DOOR BLOCK” Teacher Astapenko V.A.
Slide 2
Carpentry and carpentry work is carried out on the construction of all types of buildings and structures: residential and public, industrial and auxiliary, agricultural, etc. Suffice it to say that when constructing a brick five-story residential building, the cost of carpentry work is up to 25% of the estimated cost of the project.
I. Introduction.
Slide 3
Wood is a natural polymer with a combination of positive properties, which allow it to be used so widely and variedly in a wide variety of fields. Wood has high physical and mechanical characteristics, is well and easily processed, has low volumetric weight, high aesthetic qualities and natural decorative properties, low thermal conductivity, high strength with low weight, and has good resistance to shock and vibration loads; at correct design, manufacturing and operation is reliable and durable. Wood is relatively easily and simply connected with fasteners, glued firmly and reliably; maintains a beautiful appearance for a long time; is usually environmentally friendly pure material; Protective and decorative compounds can be applied well to it.
1. Material and its properties
Slide 4
Tree- perennial with a clearly defined trunk, lateral branches and apical shoot. There are three main parts in a growing tree: the root - the underground part, acts as a foundation and holds the tree in an upright position, absorbs water from the soil with nutrients dissolved in it and supplies it to the trunk. the trunk, starting from the neck of the root and ending at the apex, serves as a support for the crown, conducts water obtained from the root and nutrients into the crown and, conversely, nutrients produced by the crown during the period of sap flow into the roots; retains moisture and nutrients in winter; crown- top part tree, formed by a collection of branches and leaves. The main life processes of the plant take place in the crown; its shape is hereditary, but in different conditions growth and may change with the age of the tree.
Slide 5
Door panel block Filler (slats, plywood strips, paper honeycombs). Veneer. Fiberboard. Frame.
The door block consists of a door frame and a door leaf hung on a vertical block of the frame on hinges. According to their purpose, doors are divided into internal ones, including entrance doors stairwells
in apartments and other premises, for sanitary and technical units, external (entrance to buildings), vestibule and special (soundproofing, fireproofing, smokeproofing, etc.).
Slide 6
The door block is manufactured using hand-held, electrified tools with the production of blanks on woodworking machines. To make a door block, you will need the following tools: For marking: 1) Tape measure - used for linear measurements, as well as rough marking of long lumber.
Rice. 3) roulette. 2) Thicknesser - used to apply marks parallel to one of the sides of the bar or part.
surface planer 3) Square - designed to check the squareness of building structure elements.
Rice. 5) square.
Slide 7
Treatment:
To cut lumber into blanks, machines for longitudinal and transverse cutting of wood are used. After cutting, the workpieces are planed to a clean size. The desired profile is given on a milling machine.
Slide 8
4. Selection of grooves for tenons
Drilling and grooving machines are designed for selecting grooves and drilling holes in parts
5. Cutting out tenons and selecting lugs is done on a tenon cutting machine
Slide 9 Press Vimes are designed for assembly door elements
with adjustable pressure force
Assembly is carried out in hydraulic clamps
Slide 10
Technological sequence of manufacturing a panel door block
The process of manufacturing a door panel with continuous filling is as follows: after assembling the frame, plywood or hard wood is placed on it. fibreboard, pre-smeared with glue, and attached to the frame with small nails 20-25 mm long. After fixing the cladding, the frame is turned over and that’s it. inner space filled with slats of a thickness corresponding to the thickness of the frame. When laying the slats, you must ensure that they are pressed tightly against each other (without gluing), their surface should be flat, and the joints of the slats should be spaced apart. After filling the frame with slats, cover it on top with a second sheet facing material(previously coated with glue) and attach it with small nails from four corners. When making a shield with sparse filling with a frame, the latter is filled not completely, but at intervals.
Slide 11
Scheme of the manufacturing process of the door block DG21-9
Slide 12
Workplace and caring for him
The carpenter's workplace must be properly organized, which ensures normal working conditions and high labor productivity. A cabinet is placed close to the workbench, which is placed on the floor or mounted on the wall. Tools are stored on shelves in the cabinet. Auxiliary materials and drawings. Tools are arranged in a certain order, putting them strictly in their place after work. It is recommended to hang saws on the walls, each separately. The cutting tool should always be sharp and dry. There should be a tool at the workplace that is needed at a given time. The workplace should be well lit. Fire safety measures must be strictly observed. After work, shavings and sawdust are removed from the workplace and taken out of the workshop. Turn off all heating devices.
Slide 13
The carpenter's workplace is equipped with a workbench with a set of tools. The workbench must correspond to the height of the worker.
Rice. General view of the workbench. 1-podstache. 2-caliper with screws. 3-workbench cover. 4-holes. 5-mushroom. 6-tray. 7-holes for wooden fingers. 7-articulated stop. 9-clamp box. 10-screw
Slide 14
Industrial safety.
Modern woodworking equipment is equipped with high-speed cutting tools, feed mechanisms and other devices. When working on woodworking machines, you need to know and strictly follow the following general safety rules: - you can only work on a fully functional machine. The cutting tool of the moving part must be securely fastened and protected. -before the start of each shift, you need to check the serviceability of devices. - it is impossible to work on the machine with faulty protective devices removed. - it is forbidden to brake cutting tools and other moving parts and random objects. - levers, pedals and handles for stopping machines must function smoothly and must be at the shortest distance from the workplace. -When working on the machine you need to be careful and not talk to strangers. - you cannot remove waste, clean or lubricate the machine while it is operating (to do this, it must be stopped and disconnected from the electrical network). -each workplace must have a box or cabinet for storing tools, testing devices and devices. - Do not place keys, rulers or other tools on the machine. - there should be nothing unnecessary in the workplace; The passages near the machines should be clear and the floor should be level. -at the end during his work (shift), the machine must be cleaned and lubricated, and any deficiencies identified must be reported to the shift foreman and the shift machine operator.
1.
1.1 Introduction
1.2 Design and purpose
1.3 The grafical part
1.4 Routing
1.5 Properties and characteristics of the materials used
1.6 Equipment used, mechanical and hand tools
1.7 Labor protection, safety precautions when working on machines
1.8 Used Books
1. Technological process door block manufacturing
1.1 Introduction
Interior doors are part of the interior, so their choice must be approached very responsibly. In this article we will talk about the variety of interior doors, their characteristics, production technology, price differences and much more, which will help potential buyers make their choice.
Wooden doors are quite often installed in houses and apartments. If you have also chosen them, then you need to approach the purchase very seriously. A wooden door is the very thing that will either serve for many years and delight with its beauty and quality, or will quickly warp, crack and become completely unsuitable for its intended use. Therefore, even when buying expensive interior wooden doors created by designers, you need to pay attention not only to their appearance, but also to whether the technology was followed in the process of their manufacture.
Production of interior wooden doors is a very complex technological process that must meet certain requirements. Only with strict adherence to technology can high-quality and reliable interior wooden doors and wooden entrance doors be obtained that will serve for a long time and will not lose their performance qualities. Properly processed wood is durable, frost-resistant, soundproof material. It is not only used to make wooden doors, but also to build houses. A wooden house turns out to be so warm, reliable and beautiful that, despite the emergence of a huge number of more modern and less expensive building materials, wood has not lost its relevance and people continue to build from it.
The production of interior wooden doors requires very precise compliance with all technological stages. The solid wood is first dried. If the drying of the wood was carried out poorly, then wooden doors made from this solid wood will not last long, they will quickly change shape and become unusable. But made from high-quality dried wood, using good equipment and observing all the subtleties of the technological process, wooden doors - pine, whether an inexpensive or valuable type of wood served as the material for them, will be very durable and functional.
After drying the wood, it is glued. The composition of the glue depends on what type of door will be made - wooden external doors, paneled wooden doors or Finnish wooden doors. For different types Doors use different glues; different temperature conditions are also required during gluing.
And finally, the wooden doors are sanded and impregnated with various protective compounds, primed and painted. After the wooden doors are sanded, they are covered with stain, sanded again, covered with a waterproof primer, and then painted and varnished.
Often, interior wooden doors are not painted, but simply coated with transparent varnish so that the structure of the wood is visible. But wooden entrance doors should be more resistant to various external influences, so they are usually coated with special paints for outdoor work. A wooden door that will be constantly exposed to the outdoors is usually not decorated with clear varnish only, but requires a more durable and resistant coating. If it is sometimes coated with varnish, then only with high-strength varnish and at least four times.
Wooden external doors, paneled wooden doors, Finnish wooden doors and any other doors made of wood are varnished only with polyurethane varnish, because it can stretch along with the surface of the wood. If wooden doors even slightly crack during use, the polyurethane varnish will stretch along with the microcracks and make them completely invisible to the eye.
Of course, everyone wants to buy wooden doors that will last a long time and will not lose their shape and shape during use. appearance. It is not so easy to make wooden doors, so good doors are rarely obtained in handicraft conditions. It is best to buy doors from famous manufacturers, which have their own large-scale production and have been working on the market for several years. When purchasing doors made by someone unknown, you can be very disappointed when they become warped and stop opening.
The cost of wooden doors depends on their quality, on whether the technological process was so precisely followed during their production. If you decide to install wooden doors in your wooden house, then make sure that you purchase doors made by a reliable manufacturer.
1.2 Design and purpose
The door block consists of:
1. Two vertical strapping bars
2. Two cross bars
3. From the lower and upper transverse bars
4. Internal four vertical strapping bars
5. Internal two cross bars
6. Of six lower and upper panels
7. From one middle panel.
1. The door block should not be made from pine wood.
be on parts of falling knots, rot, cracks.
2. Make panels from pine wood
3. Assemble the door leaf using PVA glue.
4. Door leaf and door frame shouldn't have
skew more than 1 mm.
5. Connections must be tightly fitted, not
have gaps.
6. The door leaf must be straight
plane, skew no more than 2 mm.
7. Hang the door leaf in a box on cardboards
8. The door leaf should work without
wiping.
9. The gap in width should be 1.5-2 mm, in height from the bottom 3-5 mm
10. Finish with 3 layers of oil varnish.
1.3 Graphic part
1.4 Product specification
Total: 0.0655
1.4 Technological map
| Equipment | Circular saw cross cutting | Knot sealing machine | Jointer. | Press or clamps | 4-ex Longitudinal milling | Trimming Sawing. | Chain machine. chiselling | Thicknesser machine. | Tenoning machine. | Milling machine. | Milling machine. | Workplace | Assembly machine. | Tsf-2 grinding | Special machine. | Grinding machine. | Workplace | Workplace | ||
| Operations | Cross cutting. | Longitudinal cutting. | Sealing knots. | Jointing | Gluing | Processing on 4 sides. | End cutting to size | Chiseling. nests | Face and edge processing | Thorn cutting | Mold | Processing of molding | Pre-assembly | Final. assembly | Perimeter processing. | Selection of sockets for hinges | Grinding | Box assembly | Fitting the canvas | |
| Door leaf | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Vertical block | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Upper horizontal bar | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Medium horizontal bars | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Bottom horizontal bar | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Medium and medium bars | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Panel | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Vertical box block | ||||||||||||||||||||
| Horizontal box block |
1.5 Properties and characteristics of the materials used
The more common species is Scots pine.
Natural array - solid wood doors we are considered the best. And this is true, but with a caveat: if these are high-quality products, made from well-dried wood (which sometimes takes several years) and without knots. The absence of knots in the door frame is especially important. Otherwise, after a while it will become deformed and the door will stop closing.
Glued solid wood - today acts as an alternative to natural solid wood (it is also called type-setting, re-glued). A door made of laminated wood will not move, it will not dry out or swell. It can also be installed in bathrooms, which cannot be said about doors made of ordinary solid wood, no matter what varnish you cover them with.
