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Rainwater flowing from the roof can cause a lot of troubles: a wet foundation and walls of the house, a destroyed blind area and paving slabs, flooded basement and ground floor. To avoid the destructive consequences of water, roof drains are installed as part of the house's drainage system, which drains rainwater from the roof and directs it to a specific place.

Gutter systems usually consist of 3 main elements: fitting, gutter and pipe. Depending on the cross-section, they are divided into: round, square and trapezoidal. Installation of roof drainage systems varies and depends on its design features. For example, for a flat or flat one, you will need to install a drain system around the entire perimeter. Installation begins with attaching a plug that gives the water flow the required direction. After entering the water intake, the water will flow into the drain system. Installation of the bend must be done using adapters installed at a certain angle, and all parts are fastened together with couplings.

Special tees make it possible to correctly distribute water flows, thereby ensuring a moderate load on the system. Installation of roof drains is carried out using clamps and brackets. During installation, additional parts are also used - baskets and meshes that protect the drain from clogging; storm water inlets; drippers preventing water accumulation.

Gutter systems can be metal or plastic. Budget option is galvanized steel, which has big drawback– low resistance to corrosion. Much more durable aluminum and copper systems, but at the same time their cost is quite high. Plastic structures are the most common, since at a very affordable cost they are light in weight, resistant to mechanical and corrosive damage, and retain excellent properties for a long time appearance. In addition, such systems are durable and easy to install.

Drain system design

When installing a roof drain for small building, it would be appropriate to use a gutter with a size of up to 110 mm and a pipe with a diameter of up to 75 mm. If the roof area is large, then the gutter and pipe are required larger -130 mm and 100 mm, respectively. For buildings with a large roof area, you will need a gutter 200 mm in diameter and a pipe 150 mm in size. The length of the gutter directly affects the downspout - if its length exceeds 8 m, then two downspouts will need to be installed.

To install drains with your own hands, you will need certain materials and tools:

• pipes and gutters;
• connection elements;
• gutter plug;
• rubber seals;
• funnels for receiving water;
• glue and sealants;
• hacksaw or grinder.

It is important to pay attention to some nuances before making roof drains with your own hands. The gutter should be attached to the roof and wall at an angle relative to the drain pipe, which will ensure efficient drainage of water. You need to carefully study the instructions included with the purchased kit, which should contain detailed diagram installation

Installing roof drains yourself

Below is step-by-step instruction for installing roof drains with your own hands:

After all the steps taken to install a drain on the roof, rainwater will no longer take you and the foundation of your house by surprise, but will be properly drained into Right place or accumulate in a container for later use.

Properly organized drainage of melt and rainwater from a pitched roof will protect the roofing system, walls and foundation of the building from destruction under the influence of moisture. Modern systems drainage systems are made from durable, aesthetic materials, are easy to install, harmoniously match the color of the roof or walls and give the appearance of the house a neat, complete look.

Main types of materials

The elements from which the drain system is made can be made of metal (steel, copper, aluminum) or plastic. Each of the materials has its own advantages and disadvantages.

Steel spillways, made of sheet material up to 1 mm thick, are the most common today. Products vary in appearance, functionality and durability depending on the type of outer protective layer, which is:

• galvanizing;
• polymer coating;
• zinc-titanium coating;
• copper galvanized coating.

In Soviet times, our country used gutters, pipes and funnels made of galvanized steel for the drainage system. You can install the traditional structure yourself, but it is recommended to use seam sealant instead of rolling the elements - this significantly speeds up the work process. The disadvantages of galvanized drains include high noise, not the most attractive appearance and the tendency of the material to corrosion. To extend the service life of the system, the mounted structure can be painted with waterproof paint or varnish.

Steel drains with polymer coating more durable and resistant to corrosion, provided that during installation with your own hands and operation of the products protective layer not damaged. This type The product is also more functional due to low noise - the polymer coating dampens the sounds of falling and running water. Manufacturers offer drainage systems made of sheet steel with a polymer coating in various colors, making it easy to choose a material that matches the color of the walls or roof of a house made of metal tiles. Such a system can last 25-50 years - the service life depends on the thickness of the metal and coating parameters.

Elements of the water drainage system can be made of steel with a copper or zinc-titanium coating. Such materials are not only durable, but also look impressive. The disadvantages include the high cost of the products.

Metal drainage systems include products made from aluminum and copper. Their use is quite limited due to their high cost. The advantages of aluminum elements include their low weight, due to which the system does not place a serious load on the fastening elements. Copper products ideally complement a roof made of copper sheets. Over time, copper oxidizes and becomes covered with a film of a noble malachite hue. A copper drainage system is heavy, which should be taken into account when designing a building..

Plastic drainage systems are becoming increasingly popular due to a number of advantages.:

• high precision manufacturing of products and neat appearance;
• simple installation (using glue or special rubber seals);
• light weight (does not overload the foundation and roof);
• maximum tightness assembled structure;
• affordable price.

There are also disadvantages - plastic elements, which are fragile in the cold, can be damaged when snow melts from the roof or due to the expansion of accumulated water when it freezes.

DIY drains

The roof drainage system consists of gutters, pipes and funnels. If you can make gutters yourself, it is advisable to use ready-made funnels (with a wide neck, overhead or walk-through). The gutters may have a rounded shape or be rectangular box. You can make drains of any shape with your own hands.

The rectangular gutter is made from a strip of sheet steel, the thickness of which does not exceed 1 mm. To bend metal, the easiest way is to use an appropriate machine, but the work can also be done using a mallet. The rounded gutter is half of a thin-walled steel pipe, cut along the central axis. Pipes should be cut with sharp metal scissors. When using an angle grinder, the likelihood of rapid corrosion of the sections, and then the entire gutter, increases significantly.

Self-made elements of the drainage system must be protected from corrosion using protective and decorative paint and varnish materials. Particular attention should be paid to the edges and joints of the mounted structure.

Calculation of the drainage system

The calculation of the drainage system is performed at the design stage of the house. When developing a roofing scheme, it is necessary to determine the diameter of the gutters and the location of the funnels. Gutters of standard diameters are most often found on sale - 80 mm, 100 mm, 125 mm. Funnels should be installed at intervals of no more than 24 meters, optimal distance between two funnels is 8-12 meters - in this case it is not necessary to make a significant slope of the gutters.

The ability of the system to effectively drain melt and rainwater is calculated based on following parameters: per 1 sq. m of roof (in horizontal projection) should account for 1.5 sq. m. see the cross-sectional area of ​​the gutter and funnel. Calculation for a drain with a diameter of 100 mm: the cross-sectional area of ​​the gutter is 78.5 square meters. cm., which allows for the removal of stormwater from the roof, the horizontal projection area of ​​which reaches 52 sq. m.

Appropriate amendments are made to the calculations if the climate of the region where the house is being built is characterized by aridity or rainfall above average.

Having developed general scheme structures for draining rainwater from the roof, you can use a special program for accurate calculations, which is provided by various manufacturers materials for installation of drainage systems.

When designing a structure, it is necessary to take into account the weight of its elements. Particular attention should be paid to systems made of heavy materials, since they create a serious additional load on the foundation. In particular, for houses with strip foundation It is not recommended to install gutters and pipes made of copper.

Principle of installation of brackets

First of all, you need to choose the type of fastening horizontal elements systems. The edge of the eave overhang should hang over the middle of the gutter. All elements must be fastened with self-tapping screws. Exist various options installation of brackets.

1. Installation of gutters can be carried out on metal hooks fixed to the base of the roof. The brackets are installed before the roofing is installed. To ensure the required angle of inclination of the gutter, the hooks should be placed on the support at different distances. The installation locations of the funnels must be determined in advance.

   Installation according to this principle is recommended for gutters made of heavy materials, as well as for snowy regions.

2. The brackets are mounted on the rafters before the roofing pie is laid. This option Suitable for relatively light drainage systems.
3. Hooks for gutters are installed on the front (end) board. This option is less reliable, since under high load the fasteners can be torn out. The solution is suitable for plastic systems with brackets designed to be attached to vertical surface, and is used when there is no danger of snow falling off the roof.
4. The brackets are fixed to the wall of the building. This principle of installing gutters is practiced in the case of small eaves overhangs of a house.

The advantage of the third and fourth options is the possibility of installing the brackets after the complete completion of the roofing work.

Do-it-yourself installation of the structure

If the brackets are installed on the base of the roof, the hooks must first be bent - the angle of bending must correspond to the angle of inclination of the roof slope. First of all, the installation of brackets for drainage funnels is carried out. Next, the distance between installation sites drainpipes required to be divided by the minimum allowable step for installing the brackets. This indicator depends on the material used to make the gutters. For example, the recommended distance between adjacent hooks for steel elements is 0.9 m, for plastic gutters - 0.6 m.

After marking the attachment points, you should tighten the cord, which will indicate the angle of inclination of the gutter. In order for water to drain effectively, the height difference must be at least 2-3 mm per meter of gutter.

The order of installing elements with your own hands depends on the features specific system. In some cases, funnels are installed first, in others - gutters. The marking is carried out from the funnel, which should be located below the level of the gutters. Standard length The drainage gutter is 3 or 4 meters. The end element is trimmed when adjusting to length. Steel or aluminum gutters are cut with metal scissors, plastic ones with a hacksaw. At the ends of a do-it-yourself line of gutters, an external or internal turn, connector or plug can be installed.

The gutters are fastened together using adhesive or non-adhesive methods, using sealants, using silicone sealant. The type of fastening is determined by the characteristics of the material and the manufacturer’s recommendations. Between the gutter and the funnel, a joint with a gap for thermal deformation is usually provided, which must be taken into account when designing the system.

Between the funnel and the vertical drainpipe there should be two elbows and a straight section of pipe. At the bottom of the vertical drain, a standard drain elbow (a special elbow equipped with an outlet at an angle of 45 degrees) is installed if precipitation is expected to be drained directly to the surface or into a container for collecting rainwater.

Each type and brand of water drainage system has its own characteristics, so during installation work it is necessary to strictly follow the manufacturer’s recommendations.

Drainage system maintenance

For the drainage system to last long time, not only is required correct assembly design, but also timely care for it. A common cause of various types of damage is water accumulated in gutters. When exposed to moisture for a long time, steel parts with damaged protective coating pockets of corrosion appear, freezing of water leads to ruptures of plastic elements.

Water buildup is usually caused by leaves and other debris clogging the drainage system. Blockages also cause water draining from the roof to overflow the gutters and overflow onto the front of the house. Gutters need to be cleaned regularly, especially during leaf fall, and it is recommended to install special mesh on the funnels of drainpipes to prevent large debris from getting inside.

In areas with snowy winters, it is important to take measures to protect the drainage system. To protect the drainage structure from damage by layers of snow coming off the roof, snow retainers are installed on the roof. To prevent the formation of ice and icicles, as well as to prevent freezing of water in gutters and pipes, a heating system can be laid along the edge of the roof and in the drainage system. electrical cable– this solution has successfully proven itself in regions characterized by frequent alternations of thaws and frosts.

An effective drainage system, which you can install yourself, will reliably protect building construction and the foundation of the house from damage caused by systematic exposure to moisture.

Rainwater flowing from the roof has enormous destructive power. Firstly, the walls and foundation of the house get wet, which leads to their rapid wear. Secondly, water falling from a height onto the blind area a short time knocks out and washes out the hollows on it. Concrete blind area can collapse quite quickly, like paving slabs. Thirdly, all the water flowing from the roof is absorbed into the ground right next to the house, which leads to flooding of basements and ground floors. We could list the consequences for a long time, but it is already clear that water drainage from the roof is necessary. To do this, a drainage system must be installed under the roof overhang, which collects water flowing from the roof and directs it to a designated place on the site. To do everything correctly, you should familiarize yourself with what elements of the drainage system are needed, what materials they can be made of, as well as the technology for their installation.

Roof water drainage system - elements

There are two types of drainage systems - external And internal.

External drainage system installed on roof overhangs if the roof is pitched (single-pitched, double-pitched, hip, etc.). This type of system is used in most country houses, so this is what we will consider in more detail.

Settling in flat roofs, where the roofing material has a special slope leading to a funnel - a receiver of rainwater, which then enters a drainpipe inside the building or in technical cavities.

• Gutter. Serves to collect water flowing from the roof of the house. May have different shape and dimensions, made from various materials. The gutter then carries the water into a downspout, which directs the water to the roof water drain.

• Typically, gutters of a drainage system are no longer than 2.5 m, therefore, to install a drain on a roof that is longer, it is necessary to connect the gutters to each other. The connectors are equipped with rubber seals that ensure the tightness of the connection and also serve to compensate for the thermal expansion of the gutter material.
• Gutter angle. Various corner elements for bypass internal corners Houses. Provides excellent hydrodynamics.
• Brackets. Various types of elements that are necessary to secure gutters to the roof. This can be a long hook for hanging gutters, a short hook, or a compact hook. They all have different design and are used in different situations.
• Funnel gutter. With its help, water from the gutters is collected into the drainpipe. Required element for installation of drainage, when correct installation no additional sealing is required.
• Gutter plugs installed along the edges of the gutter to prevent water from flowing down.
• Pipe. Water from the gutters drains into it. Further through the pipe, the water is drained to the designated place. It is installed under the funnel and securely attached to it.
• Pipe elbow And drain elbow used to drain water away from the base and blind area of ​​the building. The pipe elbow serves to change the direction of the drainpipe. The drain elbow is installed at the bottom so that the water flows directly into the storm drain.
• Pipe mounting brackets. They are used to secure the drainpipe to the wall of the house so that gusts of wind cannot disturb its position.

In addition to the above elements, protective mesh cap for gutter so that no debris, such as leaves, gets into it. After all, a clogged drain begins to perform its functions poorly. Also, instead of a drainpipe, decorative drainage chains can be used, through which water flows into a container or flowerbed located immediately under the funnel. Such a chain can be a real decoration of the house if it is correctly combined with other exterior items and you select gutters that are organically combined with the chain.

Types of gutters and downpipes

Gutters and pipes are the main elements of the system that drains rainwater from the roof. You can buy on the market ready-made kits drainage systems consisting of various elements, after connection and installation of which you can be sure that the collection and drainage of rainwater is ensured. The main thing is to choose the right sizes. Typically, the diameter of the gutter varies from 90 mm to 150 mm, and the diameter of the downspout from 75 mm to 120 mm.

What diameter of gutter and drainpipe to choose depends on the size of the roof of the house. For roofs with a small slope from 10 to 70 m2, gutters with a diameter of 90 mm and pipes with a diameter of 75 mm are suitable. For roofs with a slope area greater than 100 m2, gutters with a diameter of 100, 120, 130 and 150 mm are used, and pipes - 90 mm, 100 and 120 mm.

In addition to size, the elements of the drainage system differ in the material of manufacture and even in shape.

Gutter material

Gutter systems, including gutters, can be either metal, or plastic. Metal gutters include gutters made of galvanized steel, aluminum, copper, titanium-zinc and purala (galvanized steel coated on both sides with polymer).

Although they are more resistant to water than the tin gutters that were previously used, they nevertheless quickly fail under the influence of acid rain. Therefore, recently they are used less and less, and only because they are the cheapest. But products coated with polymers, for example, pural, are resistant to corrosion, fading of the material, as well as mechanical stress. Such gutters are available in a wide range color scheme, so you can select the product, the best way compatible with the façade of the building. The connection of gutters made of galvanized steel coated with polymer is made using special connecting elements With sealing rubber bands, locks and staples. And the brackets have a snap-on design. The disadvantage of such products is the fragility of the coating, which can be damaged during transportation or installation, and then rust will form at the site where the polymer coating is chipped.

varnished or painted various colors, therefore they serve long term. Products are purchased in finished form and are connected with rivets and aluminum glue; special paste or silicone can also be used for sealing. Besides finished products It is possible to make a roof drain from sheet aluminum directly on the construction site by cutting the sheet and bending it in a certain way.

They are considered the most durable. They are made from pure copper without additional coatings. They are connected to each other by folding or soldering. Most often they are mounted on standing seam copper roofs. Over time, copper oxidizes, acquiring a greenish tint, and later almost malachite. This is the so-called patina - copper oxide. It gives the entire roof a certain sophistication. Against the general background of such a roof, gutters and drains will not stand out at all, as if they were one with the roof.

When installing copper gutters, you must remember that they should not come into contact with other metals - aluminum or steel, and the roof of the house should not be made of these materials either, otherwise the water flowing from them will lead to corrosion of the copper.

Titanium-zinc gutter may have natural silver color, or may be specially covered with patina. By the way, titanium-zinc is a material that consists of 99.5% zinc, with the rest being additives of copper, aluminum and titanium. Titanium in this case gives a certain strength to the product, since zinc itself is very fragile. Titanium-zinc gutters are connected by soldering, during which special pastes are used. This type of gutters is the most expensive currently existing, and therefore is used extremely rarely. But it can last up to 150 years.

The most common. The plastic from which they are made is painted in its entirety, so the color of the product is uniform and even if the surface is damaged, it will not be noticeable, as if the material was painted only on the outside. To make PVC more resistant to ultraviolet rays and chemical aggression, the surface of the gutters is coated with acrylic or titanium dioxide. PVC gutters are connected to each other using couplings with rubber seals, latches and adhesive connections. The service life of a PVC drain can reach 50 years, and all due to the fact that PVC is not afraid of corrosion, can withstand temperature changes (-50 ° C - +70 ° C), as well as heavy snow and wind loads. In the process of snow melting from the roof, PVC gutters are not damaged due to the fact that they do not have a vulnerable coating. For example, if ice from the roof scratches the gutter, such a gutter will not last long.

Shape of gutters

In addition to the fact that gutters are made from different materials, they can also have different shapes. The sections of the gutters are as follows: semicircular, trapezoidal, semi-elliptical, square And rectangular, as well as imitating the shape of a cornice.

Semicircular gutters are the most common and fit any roof structure. Their edges turned inward and outward are stiffening ribs that increase the resistance of the gutters to mechanical loads. Semi-elliptical gutters are able to accommodate and move a larger volume of water, so they are used to drain water from the roof of a house with a large slope area. Square and rectangular gutters are selected for a specific design, so they are not used everywhere. In addition, such a structure can easily be damaged when snow falls from the roof, so it is mounted in a special way, and snow retainers are installed on the roof.

Whatever the shape of the gutter is chosen, the pipes to it must correspond: for semicircular and semi-elliptical gutters - round pipes, and for boxed ones (square, rectangular and trapezoidal) - square.

Brackets - hooks for attaching gutters differ in size and shape, as well as the location of the fastener. The shape depends on the place of fastening:

• Brackets attached to the wind board, which is nailed along the roof slope. Such hooks are called front brackets, they are screwed to the wind board and have an adjustment mechanism.
• Flat curved brackets are attached to rafter leg, if the pitch between the rafters does not exceed permissible distance between the gutter brackets, and can also be attached to the outermost batten of the sheathing or to the solid plank.
• Flat curved brackets can be attached to the side of the rafters, but they must first be bent.
• Universal brackets can be attached anywhere: to the wind board, to the last batten of the sheathing, to the rafters in the front part or on the side, as well as to a continuous boardwalk.

Typically, the brackets come complete with gutters and the entire gutter system, so they exactly match the shape and color of the gutter. For example, for trapezoidal gutters, brackets of a special trapezoidal shape are used. The same applies to other types.

The material of the brackets depends on the material of the gutters. For copper products, copper or steel brackets are used. For titanium-zinc gutters, only titanium-zinc fasteners. But for gutters made of PVC or galvanized steel coated with polymer, metal brackets are used that are covered with a composite shell or painted to match the color of the drain.

The dimensions of the holders and brackets must correspond to the dimensions of the gutters. Although there are universal models that can be adjusted, so they are suitable for gutters and pipes of any diameter.

Installation of a rainwater drainage system from the roof

Installing a gutter system on a pitched roof is easy enough to be done by one person and a partner. Although the installation technology itself has some important nuances and little things that determine the reliability of the entire system. If you doubt your abilities, it is better to entrust the installation to specialists. The fact is that most manufacturers of drainage systems provide a guarantee on the product. If system components are damaged during transportation or installation, the warranty will be void. If you turn to professionals for help, you will have a guarantee not only for the products, but also for the work performed.

If you decide to install a water drain from the roof yourself, then the instructions below will be useful to you.

First of all, you need to decide what material you need the gutter from, what shape and color. Then a calculation is made of how many of which elements are required. After purchasing everything you need, you can begin the work itself.

Securing the brackets

It is extremely important to correctly determine what is best to attach the brackets to specifically in your case. Remember, the distance from the gutter to the wall should not be less than 6 - 8 cm. Otherwise, the wall will get wet if not Wastewater, then from condensation.

The next rule is that the gutter should be located with a slope of 5 - 20 mm per 1 linear meter, so that water does not accumulate in it, but flows by gravity into the funnel and pipe. Therefore, the brackets must be mounted not on the same horizontal line, but offset. Before you start installing the brackets, you need to check the required slope and mark it. Only then can installation begin.

How to collect water from a roof and correctly calculate the slope? We take the length of the slope, for example, 8 m. The slope should be 10 mm per 1 m. It turns out that the difference in height between the upper and lower brackets should be 80 mm. If the length of the slope is more than 12 m, then it is necessary to install two drain pipes and make the gutter with a slope in two directions. Starting from the middle of the slope, left side The gutters should slope to the left and down, and the right side should slope to the right and down.

The topmost bracket is attached first. It should be located with opposite side from the drain pipe. It must be installed in such a way that water flowing from the roof gets into it, but it is not in the path of the falling avalanche snow, otherwise the system will not survive. The distance from the edge of the roof to the first upper bracket should be 10 - 15 cm. It is secured with self-tapping screws.

The second is the last lowest bracket.. It must be secured with self-tapping screws without tightening it completely. Then a construction thread is stretched between the brackets and places for attaching intermediate brackets are marked along it. The distance between the brackets should be 40 - 70 cm depending on the system, the most common step is 50 cm. All intermediate brackets are secured.

Important! When installing the brackets, it is important to remember that the gutters will be connected to each other, and the bracket should not fit under the connecting piece. Also, it should not be under the receiving funnel, but at a distance of 10 - 20 cm from it.

By the way, the receiving funnel is not installed in the corner of the slope, but 40 - 70 cm closer to the middle, at the level of the walls of the house.

Therefore, the last bottom bracket must be moved slightly higher than the position in which it was first attached so that the water can drain into the funnel.

Installation of gutters

Next, the gutter is assembled and installed on the brackets. Typically, gutters are available in lengths of 1 m, 2 m and 2.5 m. Therefore, the elements must be pre-connected. To do this, use elements with a rubber seal.

Plugs are installed along the edges of the gutter, and a receiving funnel/storm inlet is installed in the appropriate place. The axis of the funnel should coincide with the axis of the hole cut in the gutter.

The gutter should have a slope not only towards the receiving pipe, but also towards “away from the house”. This will ensure safety and reduce the possibility of damage to the gutter during a snow avalanche.

The drainpipes are installed last. The drain pipe must be located exactly under the funnel/rain inlet. The pipe is secured to the walls with special holders or clamps. Fastening the clamps depends on the material of the walls; these can be screws, nails, self-tapping screws or dowels.

Pipe holders must be placed at the pipe joints - under each socket. Maximum distance between the holders 1.8 - 2 m. The last element of the pipe - the drain elbow - must be positioned so as to drain water to the designated place.

Where to drain water from the roof

Well, the drainage system is installed on the roof, all that remains is to decide where all the collected water will be discharged. And there are several options:

• . A barrel or tank for rainwater can be placed at a distance from the house (about 0.5 - 5 m) from above, or it can be buried in the ground. The water flowing from the roof will accumulate in a container, and then it can be used to water the garden or garden.

• If rainwater is not needed and you are not going to water anything, then it can be drained into a collection filtration well. A pit is dug in the ground, at the bottom of which a layer of crushed stone is poured. Then settle down from above concrete well, which is also filled up to half with crushed stone mixed with sand, and on top with sand. This bedding serves as an absorbent element. Seeping through sand and gravel, the water is purified. Such a well must be located at least 2 m away from the house, otherwise the level may rise groundwater around the house.

• . If a private house is connected to a central sewer, then rainwater can be drained into it, but only by agreement and for a fee.

• Draining rainwater into a drainage ditch or pond. Rainwater is clean enough not to harm the ecosystem if poured into a drainage ditch or reservoir (lake, river, artificial pit). The main thing is to calculate that the water level is drainage ditch did not rise too high in case of heavy rains.

It is necessary to drain water from the roof of the house so that it does not undermine the foundation and destroy it. Therefore, if possible, it is necessary to equip a full-fledged drainage system. If this is not possible, for example, this happens if the roof is sloping and made of natural materials- reeds or straw, then its overhangs should protrude beyond the house by at least 50 cm. At the bottom, it is desirable that the water flows directly onto the ground.

It is impossible to avoid the walls of the house from getting wet during rain, when large masses roll off the roof. In addition, erosion of the soil near the house, penetration of water to the foundation, or basement, which will also have a bad effect on the operational characteristics of the building.

How to avoid all these problems? It is easier to prevent them than to deal with the consequences. And the drainage system will help with this.

The role of roof drains and their importance for the normal operation of the building

The main purpose of the organized water drainage system is to ensure controlled drainage of precipitation from the roof of the building. The gutter is designed to direct rainwater in the right direction. With its help, you can organize the drainage of water into various containers (usually barrels or bathtubs), divert it away from the building or direct it into the drainage system.

Proper installation of drains allows you to avoid soil erosion, flooding of basements, and destruction of house structures and adjacent communications.

Besides all these important tasks The drain also performs a decorative function - it separates the roof from the facade and therefore should fit as organically as possible into the overall architectural style building.

Types of roof drains

Depending on the material, the entire mass of gutters is divided into metal and plastic. Occasionally you can find ceramic and even stone plums, but these are somewhat exotic and are not used often.

Metal plums, in turn, are divided into:

• galvanized– the most widely used;
• zinc titanium– almost not subject to corrosion, very durable, but easily deformed;
• aluminum– highly susceptible to mechanical damage;
• copper– beautiful, but quite expensive;
• lead– very durable, but are now rarely used.

Of all the metal gutters, the best today are considered to be galvanized with a polymer coating, which protects the metal from corrosion, has high frost resistance, is not afraid of ultraviolet radiation and, thus, significantly increases the service life of the system.

Depending on the installation area, drains are divided into external and internal. Internal drains are used to drain precipitation from flat roofs multi-storey buildings. Small houses with pitched roofs equipped with external drains.

By connection type individual elements Roof drains are divided into systems with rubber seals and adhesive ones.

Choosing a drain

Most often, the selection and installation of a drainage system and installation of the roof occur simultaneously, so they also need to be ordered at the same time.

If the building has a complex roof configuration, then to calculate the drains, you will have to conduct a thorough analysis of its area and geometry, as well as the possible maximum volumes of drains. An incorrect calculation will lead to overflowing of the gutters, and the entire drainage system will become useless.

It is also important to choose a drain option that will be in harmony with the roof and facade of the house.

Ultimately, the entire selection process comes down to determining three parameters:

• the material from which the plums will be made;
• dimensions of system elements;
• shapes of elements.

Before you begin installing drains, you must remember that each type of drains has its own installation features unique to it.

Manufacturers in mandatory indicate them in the instructions supplied with the system. Therefore, when purchasing, do not forget to request documents for the drainage.

The procedure for installing gutters

• First you need to determine the location and number of drainpipes. If water inlet funnels work as a connector for gutters, then they are first installed in the intended places. At the ends of such devices there are devices for a sealed connection with the gutter. This could be a rubber seal or a designated area for applying glue. Such funnels are attached to roofing structures brackets.

If the funnels of the purchased system are designed to be attached directly to the gutters, then they are installed after installing the gutter. To do this, a hole is first cut in the place where the funnel is attached. The funnel is attached to the gutter using glue or mechanically by snapping a special clamp.

• After studying the installation instructions, attach the brackets for laying the gutters at the required distance. When plastic system this is usually 50 - 60 cm, for metal ones the distance is greater - 75 - 150 cm. The holders are positioned so that they ensure that the gutters slope towards the funnel (usually 2 - 3 mm per 1 running meter of the gutter). To do this, install the bracket farthest from the funnel at the highest point, stretch a cord between it and the funnel, and then install the remaining hooks along it.

The brackets can be attached to the front board (use plastic holders), and if roofing not yet mounted, then to the rafters (metal holders).

• The gutters begin to be laid, starting from the funnel, snapping the edge of the gutter into the clamp made on the edge of the bracket. The gutters themselves (depending on the type of drainage system) are connected to each other using glue, soldering or connecting elements. It must be taken into account that systems assembled using glue cannot be dismantled.

The gutters are installed so that their edges are below the line that continues the roof. This will help prevent water flows from overlapping the edge of the gutter, and also, when snow slides from the roof, it will reduce the likelihood of it getting into the gutter (otherwise, the gutters may tear off under the weight of snow and ice).

• At the next stage, corner elements are attached to the gutters, allowing them to go around the corners of the building and the protrusions of the facade.
• Side plugs are attached to the ends of the gutters.
• Installation of drainpipes is carried out from top to bottom - from the funnel. The distance from the pipe to the wall of the house must be at least 4 - 8 cm. The pipe sections are connected using couplings and secured in height to the wall with clamps located at a distance of 1 - 2 m (this is indicated in the instructions of the system supplier).
• If a pipe collects water from two funnels, then tees are used.
• The lower outlet of the pipe (direct drain) is fixed at a distance of at least 30 cm from the ground. If linear drainage is provided, then this distance can be reduced to 15 cm.

What else you need to know about installing drainage systems

Roof drain care

No matter how well the drainage system is installed, it needs regular maintenance.

Gutters, especially with insufficient slope (less than 10 0), quickly become overgrown with dirt and fallen leaves. Therefore, for the normal functioning of the drain system, it is necessary to completely clean it at least 2 times a year. And if special nets installed in the upper part of the gutters can save you from foliage, then this is not a hindrance for dirt.

Over time, gutters may begin to leak. To eliminate minor leaks, there are special rubber rings with titanium, but if the damage is large, you will have to change part of the system.

One of the important parts when building a house is drainage. It performs 3 functions:

1. Moisture protection. Due to a properly equipped roof drain with your own hands, precipitation does not flow down the walls onto the blind area, steps and foundation. The protective function is the main criterion for a properly installed drain, because before its invention the entire base could collapse in just 8 years after construction.
2. Decorative function. There will be no stains left on the walls, here decorative function intersects with the protective one, because moisture destroys walls no worse than the foundation. The beautifully executed roof drains themselves also give the overall picture of the house a complete look.
3. Water collection. Particularly significant for people involved in gardening is that drainage helps collect moisture from precipitation. When finalizing, you can make a tap into a barrel or other container in the immediate vicinity of the garden itself.

In this article

Preparatory work

Material calculation

The 2 main groups of materials for any such structure are metal and polymers.

Metal structures are more expensive, but stronger than plastic ones. In addition, you need to choose a corrosion-resistant material. If desired, any composition can be treated with a stainless steel, and then covered with decorative coating, if necessary.

A metal drain can be copper, aluminum, or galvanized steel (made from sheets 1mm thick). Each type has its own advantage. So, a copper drain does not need additional processing, is the highest quality and most durable, but aluminum will be the lightest, and steel will be the cheapest.

Plastic elements will cost even less than any metal, but they have a significant drawback: when the temperature reaches -10 o C, the plastic becomes fragile.

Drawing up a drainage system. System elements

Before installing and assembling the roof drainage system, it is necessary to determine the number and placement of its elements:

Installation recommendations

During the work you should pay attention to some things:

• Use cold welding and rubber seals. For a clearer joint and reliable sealing, these materials are best suited.
• Keep the slope towards the funnel. Even when installing a metal system, some deflections are formed that occur under prolonged exposure natural conditions. Changing the slope of the gutter to the funnel side will eliminate the possibility of accumulation of excess liquid.
• Allow a minimum gap between the gutter and the wall. If the distance between the drain and the wall is more than 50 mm, moisture leaks onto the wall. To avoid this, the fit of the gutter to the roof canopy should be as tight as possible.

Tool preparation

For normal operation without interruptions and attempts to adapt available tools, you will need:

1. Roulette
2. Screwdriver/screwdriver and set of screws
3. Bulgarian saw
4. Thread or marking cord
5. Plumb, level
6. Marker
7. Silicone sealant and rubber seals (or cold welding)
8. Stepladder, ladder, or scaffolding
9. Sandpaper

Pipe installation

Brackets with fastenings

What the system rests on is established first. It would be great if the diagram of the fastenings and the entire drain was previously drawn on paper. To begin with, markings are made taking into account the current slope of the roof. At this point, you need to calculate the degree of inclination of the gutter and mark the start/end points on the eaves. Now everything is connected along the line and the remaining fasteners are installed.

When using metal in the design of gutters, the brackets are spaced in increments of 1 meter, but if plastic roof drains are chosen - 60-80 cm.

Gutters

The gutters are secured to the brackets using self-tapping screws. Also, to eliminate the possibility of the drain twisting due to sunlight, there are additional holders on the mounts. If they are absent, you can solve the problem with several screws or plugs.

Installation of gutters is carried out on the roof or the edge of the rafter system. It is best to install the drainage system before covering the roof. roofing material, if this is not possible, the first option is used. To make it easier to catch the flow of water, when installing gutters, an indent of 1/3 from the pipe cross-section is added. This allows more of the gutter to protrude.

Each meter of length of the drainage system must have its own slope. In general, it is 3-4 mm to ensure an unobstructed flow path for water into the funnel.

To prevent the structure from being torn down by snow or ice, an indentation must be maintained. It is 30mm from the edge of the roof to the top of the gutter.

Pipes

After fixing the main drain elements, vertical pipes are installed. This leaves a gap between the pipe itself and the funnel, which can be filled using a fastener from the elbow fitting to the pipe location. This creates a smooth transition and aesthetic appearance of the structure.

To prevent water seepage, you need to secure the elements tightly. Rubber bands, sealing glue, or cold welding are suitable if the system is planned to be made of steel elements. In this case, the rubber band has the advantage of providing mobility to the system due to the thermal gap.

Yoke

To place them evenly, you can mark several lines along the line using a plumb line: 2 clamps are used per meter of pipe. On average, 2-3 holders are needed per wall with an additional mount in the middle.

Guide elbow

It is mounted at the end of the pipe in order to eliminate splashing, as well as adjust the desired direction. Ideal option there will be a projection about 25-35 centimeters from the wall.

Leaf Trap

If there are trees near the house, the leaves of which fall on the roof during the season, then for convenience you can make protection from them. It can serve as a simple construction lattice. When bent, it should form a convexity 1/2 above the level of the gutter, easily fitting into it.

Drainage routes

The drainage system has been installed, all that remains is to decide how to most profitably use the collected water.

Conclusion

Upon completion of all work and setting up the final water drainage, it would be a good idea to invite a specialist. Perhaps some acquaintance who will see from the outside what you did not see. Assessment of outsiders is needed to eliminate undetected deficiencies in order to avoid their development in the future.

Once you are convinced of its reliability, you must not forget about caring for the elements. If the structure is made of metal, check and renew the anti-corrosion coating approximately once a year. It is not difficult and thanks to such care, the drain will last a long time.