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Joint planting of vegetables is practiced by many well-known agronomists throughout Russia. This technology allows, by planting together different types garden crops, get huge yields even from the smallest plots.

In this article we will cover:

• Why do they plant vegetables together?
• How to make joint plantings in the garden.
• Which plants are compatible with each other?
• Examples of joint plantings.

Why do joint plantings take place?

Joint planting of vegetables (or compact planting) is one of the favorite techniques " lazy garden" There is no point in caring for a garden of ten acres when the same crop can be grown on two. In addition, planting two or more crops together in one bed can really increase yields; The main thing is to choose these crops correctly.

In the article about a smart garden, we talked about how to make smart beds and how to place them in the garden. But experienced amateur vegetable growers also use in their work the ability of plants to influence each other.

Any plant, through its leaves and roots, releases substances that can harm or help its neighbors; or harm and help at the same time. So, a plant can scare away a pest from a neighbor, but at the same time inhibit its growth.

Leaves (especially of aromatic crops) may release either volatile or water-soluble substances that return to the soil when watered or rained.

The roots simply release biologically active compounds into the soil, which are absorbed by the roots of neighboring plants.

How else do plants influence each other?

Tall plants can be planted together with shorter ones - they will create the necessary shade and protect from the wind.

All legumes are capable of accumulating nitrogen in their nodules, which they absorb from the air. Not only do they not take nitrogen from the soil, but they also share their own accumulations with their neighbors, releasing it from the nodules in a form that is easily digestible by other plants.

Substances released from the roots and leaves of some plants can repel pests from others, or throw them off the scent with their strong odor.

Alevtinka Member of FORUMHOUSE

The main thing is to confuse the pest, because it follows the smell.

4. The onion fly will be scared away from the onion by the smell of carrots, and the spider mite will think three times before attacking the carrots; onions are planted next to the bark. Cruciferous flea beetles cannot stand the smell of garlic, etc.

5. The most delicious, large, non-bitter, pure radish grows in the same bed with bush beans. In such plantings, beans are sown two weeks later than radishes.

Why plants may not be compatible

In the plant world, cooperation and mutual assistance can be found more often than hostility. But leaf and root secretions of some plants can still inhibit the growth of others. Garden crops can also compete for sun, moisture, nutrients in the soil and suppress each other. All this must be taken into account when planting plants together or in adjacent beds.

When planting two crops in the same bed, remember that one of them should be the main one, and the second should be a compactor or accompanying crop. It is planted to thicken and fill gaps. In this photo from the album of user FORUMHOUSE with the nickname Gardener The main crop is carrots, and the accompanying crop is garlic.

Gardener

The principle of combining crops on narrow ridge. Garlic (onion) will protect carrots from carrot flies.

Compatibility table for garden plants in dense plantings

Tables of joint plantings can help the gardener with the selection of plants. .

The main crops in joint plantings are vegetables with a long ripening period. Planted between them spices and marigolds (this plant copes with many pests).

Gardener

Plant marigolds throughout your garden. In the fall, their stems are embedded in the soil to repel soil insect pests and prevent wintering beetles (for example, the Colorado potato beetle) from entering the soil. Wireworms and aphids cannot stand the smell of marigolds.

Early ripening varieties of vegetables can also be accompanying crops. Early ripening varieties ripen, they are harvested, and the main crop receives more space, sun and nutrition for its development.

In the photo above we see joint plantings of cabbage on the “smart beds” of the famous agronomist Igor Lyadov.

Gardener

Cabbage is planted in a checkerboard pattern, alternating late and early. When the early one is eaten, the later one scatters leaves in the vacant space.

Joint planting schemes

We offer you several well-working schemes for joint planting of popular garden crops.

Planting cucumber and dill together: in a narrow bed, cucumbers are sown in two rows, 60 cm apart. Dill is sown between the cucumbers and along the edges of the bed. The plants mutually increase each other’s productivity; dill grows just in time for pickling cucumbers.

Joint planting of onions with carrots, radishes and parsley: Very good scheme, in which onions are sown first - 5 rows every 15 cm, several radish seeds are sown in each row of onions. A row of carrots, a row of parsley, another row of carrots, and another row of parsley are sown between the onion rows. The radishes are harvested first, then the onions. With this planting scheme, carrots and parsley receive protection from pests at the beginning of summer, and in the second half of summer they have the opportunity to develop good root crops.

Quail

I removed the onions, and there was more space and light for the carrots.

Combined planting of beets and lettuce. Seedlings of any lettuce are planted in rows every 30 cm; when they take root, beet seedlings are planted (the distance between beet plants in a row is 15 cm). The lettuce is harvested after 30-40 cm, the beet roots develop to full maturity.

In all these schemes, the principle of complementarity of crops in joint plantings is clearly visible: plants have a beneficial effect on each other’s growth and development, protect against pests and do not compete for food. nutrients.

The crop that needs nutrients more is always placed in the middle of the bed, and additional crops are placed at the edges.

Joint planting of vegetables has many advantages over monoculture. This also increases productivity cultivated plants, and saving space in the garden and.

To correctly arrange a number of crops within one bed, you need to take into account so many nuances that sometimes it seems like an impossible task. In this case, they will come to your aid ready-made diagrams, tested by several generations of amateur vegetable growers.

It is precisely these proven options for joint planting of vegetables that my article will be devoted to.

I prefer to sow these compactor plants 1.5-2 weeks before planting the cucumber seeds in the row spacings, which I make slightly wider than required by agricultural technology - 70-75 centimeters. Towards the end of May, dill and radishes are selectively harvested, and their place is taken by corn seedlings. Corn will protect the cucumber from the scorching sun, and will also serve as food for it.

Carrots, radishes, etc. are also friendly in mixed plantings.

Marigolds have wonderful property repel harmful insects!

The first to enter the garden bed is the onion set, which is planted in four rows with row spacing of 20-25 centimeters. The bulbs are placed at a distance of 8-10 centimeters from each other and radishes are sown in the same rows between the onions.

Next, at a distance of 10 centimeters from the rows with onions and radishes, carrots (three rows) and parsley (two rows) are sown alternately. The radishes ripen first, and the onions a little later. Thus, they free up space for the development of parsley and carrots.

Onions and radishes have a positive effect on parsley and carrots in the initial period of development. As a result, the root vegetables turn out cleaner and larger than without such a friendly neighborhood.

Tomatoes are used in many joint planting options.

Excellent results are obtained by planting tomatoes with early varieties of onions, parsley and celery.

Try to do this - in August, plant it in a prepared bed garden strawberries, and next year add tomatoes and parsley there too. Plant tomato seedlings along the edge of the bed at a distance of one meter interspersed with parsley.

How do you like this vegetable bed?

Strawberries feel great in the company of tomato, parsley, watercress, dill, spinach and savory. In this case, tomato bushes are planted not among parsley, but among dill. Spaces of at least a meter are left between the tomatoes, and the remaining herbs and seasonings are sown pointwise.

Tomato plants get along well with onions, carrots, spinach and watercress.

Greenberries, carrots and onions are sown first, but leave the middle of the bed free. In this place, when the threat of frost has passed, tomato seedlings will be placed at a distance of a meter between individual plants. Spinach and watercress are the first to leave the garden bed, followed by onions. Next, the tomato fruits ripen, which usually occurs simultaneously with the formation of carrot roots.

By the way, tomatoes are favorable neighbors for many plants. Tomatoes planted next to cabbage, cucumbers, zucchini, gooseberries, currants, under apple and pear trees repel codling moths, white moths, aphids and moths and prevent a number of diseases. The tomato smell is also capable of driving away ants and...

Onions + carrots = love

Parsnips and head and leaf lettuce grow well in one bed, but it is better to place them alternately.

I advise you to compact cabbage, especially late-ripening varieties.

Along the edges of the rows with onions, when they have already sprung up, you can plant seedlings of late cabbage. After harvesting the onion harvest in July, cabbage heads will ripen quietly until October.

On the same bed with white cabbage late varieties you can scatter islands of spinach, lettuce, dill, radishes, and watercress interspersed. Late white cabbage is often grown in joint plantings with early ripening cabbage - kohlrabi, cauliflower, and kale.

And the cabbage itself plays the role of a seal for the potatoes. Cabbage and celery planted together become stronger, and celery also repels cabbage weeds.

Radishes grow large and clean if planted between rows of bush beans.. But keep in mind that it should be sown 1-2 weeks earlier than beans. Radishes are considered to be good neighbors and therefore are a popular compactor. This vegetable germinates quickly, so it is often used for rows of slow-growing crops - beets, spinach, carrots, parsnips.

When planted together with cucumbers, corn plays the role of support.

According to my observations, all representatives of the celery family (celery, parsnips, carrots) are friends with the onion family. And only dill should not be added to a bed with carrots and celery.

The state of plantings of vegetable crops is also favorably influenced by some ornamental plants, releasing phytoncidal and insecticidal substances. Such plants include calendula, nasturtium, matthiola. They will be sown pointwise on vegetable beds to avoid harmful thickening.

Marigolds planted around the perimeter of the strawberry bed will protect this crop from gray rot and weevil and increase the yield. Attracted to vegetable beds beneficial pollinating insects such honey plants, How

When engaged in gardening and gardening, many farmers are faced with the problem of lack of space, as well as sometimes inexplicable incompatibilities between different plants. Which, in turn, leads to a decrease in yield and various diseases that impair plant growth and the quality of the resulting fruit. Mixed plantings vegetables, the diagrams of which are drawn up taking into account all the features, can solve many problems.

The Science of Mixed Plantings

Allelopathy is a science that studies the influence on each other and the ability of them to coexist together. The proximity of vegetables in the greenhouse and mixed plantings are determined taking into account the influencing factors. Every plant secretes through its leaves and roots various substances, which, when released into the soil, can either be absorbed by other plants or cause harm to them.

Some species tend to stimulate the growth of accompanying plantings and have a protective effect on them from pests, but at the same time they can also be oppressive. Besides the obvious, there is another reason to create mixed plantings - to save space.

Schemes of mixed and compacted vegetable plantings

It is very important when drawing up a plan for future plantings to consider:

1. Climatic conditions in a particular area may vary, as some places are drier and others wetter. The effects of wind, precipitation and frost must also be taken into account in the calculations.
2. It is necessary to know the characteristics of each specific site, its soil composition, impact sunlight to this area, as well as its protection from aggressive influences nature.

Planning

These parameters should form the basis of the garden planting strategy to obtain the highest results from each meter of area. Drawing up a plan begins with studying the characteristics of the site and the characteristics of each individual meter of land. Schemes of mixed beds (planting vegetables in a garden bed, as is known, vary in purpose) must be drawn up taking into account all climatic and agrotechnical parameters of the soil.

Advantages of the method

Advantages of mixed plantings:

Smart combination

Alternation of crops with different requirements for nutrition and soil composition allows you to avoid partial or complete depletion of the land and the destruction of any individual elements nutrition needed by plants.

Planting vegetables together can improve the quality of life of neighboring crops and can also affect the taste and nutritional value of the fruit.

Main and accompanying plants

Mixed plantings of vegetables, their arrangement patterns and the principles that guide the gardener when composing them are based on simple knowledge. In the practice of this method, there are such concepts as a companion plant, or accompanying plant, as well as the main crop. The main plant is the target of planting, and the satellite plant is used to fill gaps and produce larger yields.

Mixed planting tactics

In the role of accompanying plants, aromatic green fertilizers are more often used, a number of which can benefit their neighbors. The main crops are usually vegetables and are slow-ripening, small-sized specimens, with fast-ripening species in between.

This tactic is very effective. While the main culture is slowly growing and developing, the accompanying culture has time to grow, making room for sufficient development of the main one. That's what it is main principle drawing up a plan and diagram of mixed plantings.

Preferred neighborhood

In order to organically fit into your plan various mixed plantings of vegetables and their arrangement on the site, you need to know the properties of each plant and its compatibility with others. Properties inherent in individual garden crops, it is convenient to consider in the form of a table. Mixed plantings of vegetables in the garden must be made taking into account the needs of each crop.

Correct Neighborhood Table

Today you learned about mixed planting of vegetables. Schemes for their composition are created taking into account the preferences of each individual plant, as well as the conditions of its maintenance, which should be the basis for calculating future beds. Using such a progressive method provides many advantages, which are especially important to take advantage of when trying to obtain maximum benefit and large harvests from each square meter area.

Joint plantingsvegetable, berry, green and ornamental crops at the dachas there is a garden bed x is not know-how, not innovation, but technology used over many centuries of traditional cultivation of vegetable crops. Examples of joint planting of vegetables in bedswere known and American Indians, and the ancient Slavs. Modern agricultural technicians study the interaction of different crops within a separate industry -plant allelopathy. We are talking about the beneficial or depressing mutual influence of various plants planted in the neighborhood. For small country farms themeco-cultivationof various vegetables and herbs is especially relevant, since the use of this planting method will allow using the available space more economically in terms of quantity and more efficiently in terms of quality.

Why is it important to properly combine vegetables in garden beds?

To get maximum yield for minimum area, using the technology of combined beds, it is necessary to understand the basics of crop rotation, since even incorrect rotation of crops planted on the same plot of land in different years, can either improve the result or negate all the efforts of the gardener. Since the gardener is primarily interested in the yield and health of the plantings, the right choice neighbour and in the garden bed allows you to solve both problems.

Understanding the secrets of combined cultivation vegetable x, green and decorative crops You can achieve not only a rich, healthy harvest, but also combine the useful with the beautiful: a garden bed can become a decoration for your garden, turning into a flower bed. When choosing neighboring crops, it is necessary to take into account the following factors: Plants with similar maintenance conditions and care requirements are planted in one bed: lighting, humidity, acidity and soil structure, regime and composition of fertilizing. If the cultures coincide in most parameters, then the nuances can be taken into account by correctly drawing up a diagramjoint landing: plant a more moisture-loving plant in the center of the bed, where the soil moisture level is higher than at the edge. The same applies to sizes: the tallest specimens from a set of crops require planting in the center, the shortest ones - in the border, then everyone will have enough sunlight.

Compliance with crop rotation is an indispensable condition. Related crops belonging to the same family should not follow Friend after each other from season to season, since they draw from the soil the nutrients necessary for these particular plants (which means that the next season the “relative” will already be deprived of soil fertility) and pathogenic microorganisms accumulate over the season, causing harm to this particular family (and therefore , a “relative” is initially susceptible to a “family” disease). Plants with a powerful deep root system and short surface roots should be planted side by side in one bed so that these crops are adjacent and alternate: deep-shallow-deep. With such a planting, the roots of neighbors will not compete for underground space, each developing in its own direction.

Joint landingcultivation of different crops is possible not only within a spatial framework, when plants are simultaneously planted and ripen at the same time.

Joint planting within temporary boundaries allows you to harvest some vegetables, freeing up space for later neighbors to emerge and begin to develop.

Good example such a conveyor principlecombined planting in the garden bed, the width of which is 1 m, and the row spacing is 10 cm: Planting: lettuce (leaf) and radishes in one row - alternating every 10 cm; next row: watercress, kohlrabi cabbage alternates in a row with a head of lettuce, spinach is planted in three rows in a row, early variety potatoes, a couple more rows of spinach. Total 9 k ultur. Harvesting: spinach and watercress are harvested first (cut off the leaves and leave the roots); As they ripen, the radishes are pulled out and the lettuce leaves are removed after one; later, after harvesting the head lettuce, kohlrabi and potatoes remain until fully ripened.

Example of vertical combining compatible plants in one bed: The bed is located in an east-west direction. Along the northern border along the entire length there is a trellis support for tying up a climbing crop - beans. Rows: beans, after 0.2 m - low-growing tomatoes, after 0.2 m - carrots, after 0.2 m - onions, along the edge - a fragrant spice (for example, basil) or marigolds to protect against insects. Carrots, onions and beans are planted first, and a little later, when the beans catch on the trellis, the tomato seedlings are planted. Harvesting in this combination is almost simultaneous for all vegetable neighbors.

Advantages of mixed plantings

The advantages of planting vegetables, herbs and ornamental crops in common beds, taking into account their compatibility, include not only saving space, although it is this reason that often pushes gardeners to mixed cultivation.

By wisely using the characteristics of certain plants, you can protect your plantings from attacks by insect pests: marigolds, oregano, mint, and herbs drive away insects, protecting their neighbors in the garden. Onions and garlic can also become a reliable barrier. If you plant nasturtium next to vegetables, then the aphids will prefer the decorative crop without getting to the vegetables. The smell of rosemary will repel bean lovers, and thyme will help cabbage resist insect attacks. As a result, the summer resident will have a harvest of vegetables and aromatic additives for tea in the fall. Many cultures are not just friendship t, and show a beneficial effect on each other’s development: tall sun-loving sunflowers and corn They are excellent neighbors, since their roots develop at different depths, and create the necessary shade for short plants that prefer light shading: chard, spinach.

Early spinach greens will provide soil moisture and keep weeds at bay while beets and beans, potatoes or tomatoes emerge in the same area. And when the time comes to cut the spinach leaves, roots that are beneficial to the soil will remain in the ground, helping neighbors get food from the soil. These and others examples of joint planting of vegetables in the gardendemonstrate the benefits of growing different crops on common territory, if you know that what and why is it friendly, what can be planted side by side in one common bed . It is equally important to consider which plants do not tolerate each other.

What are they compatible with?

Cabbage

Cabbage crops usually suffer from pests, so onions and garlic are planted to protect against voracious caterpillars, and the aroma of mint, sage, rosemary and Bogorodskaya grass will help against butterflies. Snails do not like borage, and flea beetles avoid planting celery.

In addition to the defenders, cabbage there are simply friendly neighboring vegetables: potatoes, salads, cucumbers, beets.

Neighbors do not recommend carrots to go with cabbage (although with broccoli possibly), beans, grapes, strawberries, and tomatoes are planted away from cabbage.

Tomatoes

It has been noticed that basil is not just best neighbor for tomatoes , it makes vegetables taste richer. Combines harmoniously with garlic, which protects against pests, leafy greens, radishes and radishes, beans, carrots, onions and beets. They are developing well tomatoes next to peppers , even in closed ground conditions - in a greenhouse or greenhouse. Dill and it is better to plant potatoes further away, but nettle - a malicious weed - is very useful for improving the taste of tomatoes.

cucumbers

There is experience when cucumbers are planted with corn, which helps cope with ants, becomes an additional support for tenacious cucumbers, corn leaves cover the neighbor from the hot sun.

Radishes and radishes repel bugs and improve the flavor of the fruit. Can plant next to onions with garlic. Compatibility of related plants - cucumbers and zucchini - not bad example of joint cultivation in one bed. Spinach, beans and beans, dill, celery and even beets - good neighbors in cucumber beds. Compatibility vegetable crops and weedsplants in the gardenmanifests itself in a combination of cucumbers and tansy, agaric, and quinoa. These weeds help the crop resist pests.

Cucumbers and tomatoes do not grow nearby, especially in greenhouses and greenhouses - they are too different conditions content. Potatoes and spices are also planted away from each other.

Pumpkin

Some gardeners believe that favorable neighborhood there is no pumpkin to be found. They definitely don’t plant pumpkins next to zucchini - this is fraught with cross-pollination, with potatoes, peppers and eggplants and legumes. Possible joint plantings with radishes and nasturtium - these crops perform a protective function.

Carrot

Most best neighbor For carrots - onions, but perennial onions. The fact is that onions and carrots have a fundamental difference in watering needs: either the onions will rot or the carrots will not grow. Garlic, spinach, radishes, lettuce - the most popularexamples of beds with joint plantings carrots.

Dill is ruthlessly torn out from carrot beds: these plants, competitors for moisture and nutrition, have the same diseases. Carrots and parsley , not the best neighbor and celery.

Potato

When planting potatoes, many experienced gardeners a bean is thrown into the hole - the best partner of culture, helping to get more bountiful harvest. Potatoes have many useful garden companions: beans, coriander, marigolds with nasturtium or tansy protect against the main pest - the Colorado potato beetle. Garlic planted between rows helps cope with late blight.

Potatoes' friends include radishes, salads, cabbage, eggplants, horseradish (if its distribution is controlled), calendula, and corn.

But quinoa inhibits the growth of potatoes; for the same reason, beets are not planted next to them. Raspberries and tomatoes can cause late blight. Zucchini, cucumbers, sorrel - examples of crop incompatibility

Beet

Having identified as neighbors to beets mint or catnip, the gardener saves himself from fighting aphids and fleas, the main pests of the vegetable. Proven neighbors for root vegetables are cabbage (white cabbage), carrots, onions, celery, carrots, strawberries are also suitable. But for a mutually beneficial neighborhood, all plants need to be provided with a place - the plantings should not be thickened.

Beet antagonists are potatoes, beans. Not recommended nearby plant mustard.

bell pepper

Basil is not just a neighbor. This is an active assistant for Bulgarian peppers , it contributes better growth and plant development. Onions are good for peppers, and beets are just a good neighbor. Not grown next to the peppers are carrots, peas, beans.

Onion

Perennial onions and carrots are an almost perfect examplecompatibility of plants in the garden. And onions grown for the sake of the bulb are incompatible with carrots, since moisture-loving carrots will ruin the neighbor or the onion harvest will leave the gardener without carrots, because they have different requirements for substrate moisture.

Onions are comfortable in the same bed with tomatoes, green crops, beets, and strawberries. But not with sage, radishes, beans, legumes, grapes, gladioli.

Garlic

Garlic is valued by gardeners for its beneficial nutritional qualities and for the vegetable’s contribution to pest control: it protects plantings from insects, caterpillars, slugs and even moles if a large area is planted with garlic. Garlic is friendly with radishes, salads, celery, strawberries, carrots. Potato plantings it protects against late blight, and decorative ones - gladioli and roses - against aphids.

Among the enemies of garlic, we note leguminous plants.

Eggplant

Eggplant with beans - an ideal combination in the fight against the Colorado potato beetle. creeping thyme protects eggplants from flea beetles. Included in one diagram planting with eggplants, onions, peppers, herbs. Incompatible with cucumbers and cabbage.

Other vegetables

Radish It is good to grow next to carrots, cabbage, turnips, beans, salads, tomatoes, and beans. But onions, cucumbers, and beets are not suitable for general landing with radish.

Turnip can grow with peas, but does not develop surrounded by asparagus, next to mustard.

Salads are used in various combined beds. And spinach is recommended for mandatory planting: agricultural technicians note it compatible with any plants in the gardenand benefit in enriching the dacha land.

Unfavorable neighborhood

The list of plants that do not get along in the close company of other crops is small. The leader of this list is fennel, which requires individual planting.

More often, incompatibility is explained by related ties between crops (dill, coriander, parsley, the Apiaceae family, they compete and suffer from the same diseases).

When planning a general planting scheme, consider the size of an adult plant, the characteristics of the root system, the need free space on a piece of land. If we neglect these factors, then even a neighborhood that is favorable in theory will only bring problems in practice.

By studying the influence of plants on each other, a gardener increases the efficiency of his work. Every year, a summer resident transforms the appearance of his plot, because knowledge of the basics of allelopathy of vegetable and garden crops allows him to create unique flower beds that produce a rich harvest and give beauty and joy.

You have, of course, more than once thought about how best to use the space in your garden, how to compact vegetables on them. Which cultures are compatible? How to organize a conveyor in a garden bed? All these issues can be solved by using mixed plantings of vegetables, the diagrams of which are given below.

Repeated and compacted sowing of vegetable crops

Compacted planting of vegetable crops has been used since ancient times. This way, the usable area is used more intensively, because in the garden it is the most fertile and loose. We don’t spare mulch there, water it with all kinds of weed infusions, and of course, enrich the soil with compost and green manure.

combined planting of vegetable crops - beans, cabbage, corn

Compacted plantings are very often used in practice natural farming. After all, green manure and organic mulch not only fertilize the soil, but also heal the microflora - there are no severe diseases or pests. One of the conditions that must be taken into account when compacting crops is the characteristics of the vegetative development of combined crops. In a short growing season (30-45 days), crops such as dill, lettuce, spinach, radishes, arugula, and onions have time to grow. Watercress grows even faster.

Middle period development in such cultures as early cabbage, garlic, onions for turnips - they leave the garden by the end of July-beginning of August. The autumn harvest period for vegetables such as late cabbage, carrots, and beets. Well, tomatoes, peppers and eggplants leave the garden late.

mixed plantings sometimes turn out to be very expressive

Repeated sowing of vegetable crops mainly refers to crops with a short and, less often, medium growing season. So, after leaving the salad bed, you can plant grown cabbage in its place. By this point, it will no longer interfere with the previously planted cucumbers, which will climb the trellis. And after harvesting the garlic, you can plant Chinese cabbage in its place. This is an early ripening crop, and until frost, you can constantly pick juicy leaves from it for fresh salads.

Plant compatibility

Combined planting of vegetables is very effective if you choose good companions for the main crops. After all, plants can inhibit each other, or vice versa, stimulate growth, development, and even protection from pests. It has been noticed that when potatoes are compacted with beans, the damage from the Colorado potato beetle is significantly reduced. And compacting cabbage with marigolds reduces the risk of attack by the white butterfly. But even here you need to maintain a reasonable balance - too a large number of marigolds will not help the cabbage, but will oppress it.

The ability to secrete organic compounds that inhibit or suppress the development of others is called the allelopathy effect. But no matter how hard they try to study and systematize this phenomenon, it is impossible to obtain reliable data - too many factors influence the plant during the growing season. Everyone's areas are different: temperature regime, humidity, lighting, prevailing winds, soil composition, etc. Therefore, successful combinations in some conditions may “work” completely differently in others. But that's not a reason to ignore someone's successes, right? We need to take such decisions into account and adjust the “combination” already in our beds.

When placing plants in a garden bed, you can take into account not only the compatibility of vegetables with each other, but also intersperse ornamental and herbs. Then the garden will become not only useful, but also beautiful. The compatibility of plants during planting, tested in practice in our conditions in Kazakhstan (Table 1), has so far collected little data. But they are all successfully used.

Table 1

Potatoes and cucumbers, beans and onions, strawberries and cabbage do not get along with each other. Carrots “do not like” all umbelliferous plants - dill, celery, parsley. Fennel is generally a pest, and it is better to plant it in tubs. It is also better for hyssop to find a place in the backyard.

Mixed planting of vegetables in the garden

Almost schoolchildren know about the successful “duet” of carrots and onions. Separately planted onions from 1 sq.m in our conditions yield approximately 2.5 kg, and carrots about 6 kg from the same area. And when they grow together, we collect 9 kg of vegetables from the same area of ​​the garden bed! They protect each other from pests, so the efficiency of space use doubles.

And of course, mixed plantings in the garden need to be grouped taking into account the height of the plants, and the plantings should be layered. And also watch the growth - they grow differently, some quickly gain green mass, others slowly. It is better to plant compactors that are smaller in height than the main crops. Layering creates favorable conditions for roots, and is generally better used solar energy.

Mixed planting of vegetables: schemes

It is advisable to place combined plantings of vegetable crops on stationary beds. The soil in them is not dug up every season; its structure is improved annually due to the death of the roots of vegetables, flowers and green manure. Different cultures and crop rotation reduce soil fatigue, and working on such beds is much easier than on traditional vegetable garden. Here are proven schemes for mixed vegetable plantings:

planting scheme (cabbage and beets)

1. The scheme combines planting late cabbage and beets. Inside a square of 80 × 80 cm, seedlings of 4 cabbage bushes and 9 beet plants are planted. A handful of ground is placed into the hole eggshells and a glass of compost. Beetroot is harvested in September. The yield is 3-3.2 kg per sq.m. Heads of cabbage harvested in October increase in strength to 10.5-10.8 kg on average. Total weight is about 14 kg, not bad?
2. Scheme of combined planting of tomatoes and beans. The distance between plants in a row is 30 cm. A line is installed along the rows of bush beans drip irrigation, and beans are planted near each dropper. The tomatoes are placed in the center of the bed in a checkerboard pattern with beans (between the droppers so that there is no excess moisture). Along midline the beds are missing a stationary trellis. In our conditions, beans produce 2 harvests and on average yield 1.6-1.8 kg per 1 sq.m., medium-sized tomatoes - 4-4.5 kg. For the winter, we don’t prune the bean bushes, but we remove the stems of the tomato bushes by cutting them low.

planting scheme for tomatoes and bush beans

And finally, a short lesson from Galina Ivanovna Kizima, who masterfully uses compacted planting of vegetables (video):

Mixed plantings of vegetables, the diagrams of which you have seen here, in no case cancel crop rotation in the beds. If, for example, you plant beets in their original place, then next year you will get root vegetables the size of a gulkin’s nose. But this is the topic of the next publications, so stay with us and subscribe to article announcements.