Help on Tele2, tariffs, questions

Floors covered with laminate are considered one of the most practical, cheap, beautiful and easy to install. And this is true - you can cope with the task of laying them yourself, without even resorting to the help of specialists. The main thing is to have the desire and allocate time for work. But how to lay laminate? Let's look at this question in practice.

Laminate – a finishing floor covering, although considered easy to install and maintain, is quite delicate. It is demanding in terms of operating conditions and the installation process. If you neglect some of the features and rules for working with it, the coating will not last long.

The photo shows the process of laying laminate flooring.

Therefore, before starting work, it is worth ensuring the following conditions in the room:

• temperature range – 15-30 degrees above zero;
• air humidity – about 40-70%;
• level, cleared of debris and dried base;
• the room must be dry. If the humidity is high, you will have to buy more expensive moisture-resistant material;
• heaters and others heating devices cannot be turned on while working with laminate;
• It is recommended to close windows to avoid drafts.

Attention! Laminate flooring cannot be installed on sagging floors or cracked screeds. Otherwise, the material will not last long. The locks connecting the covering elements will break when the material flexes, which will ultimately damage the integrity of the base.

It is also important to remember that laminate flooring can be laid only 2 days after the material was delivered to the work site. It needs this time to “get used” to the new operating conditions - the laminate will absorb the necessary humidity, adapt to the temperature, so that during operation it will not change its size excessively. It reacts sharply to changes in room conditions - the effect of thermal expansion may appear.

It is necessary to leave the purchased laminate in the room where you plan to install the floor. This is necessary for acclimatization. This process takes about 48 hours

When choosing a laminate, you should focus not only on the color, but also on the quality of the material. It is not worth purchasing low-quality products that are too thin or not suitable for operating conditions. Such a coating will serve too little and will quickly lose appearance. Packages with laminate must be sealed, and before installation it is important to inspect all boards for damage or chips. Damaged installation elements cannot be used.

Prices for Tarkett laminate

Tarquette laminate

The process of laying the material may differ depending on what type of lamellas are used. For example, there are three installation methods, each of which uses a different type of material: laminate with joints Click or Lock, as well as the type of coating that is installed using glue.

Installation of laminate flooring with a click lock

In case of use glue method the laminate is glued to the rough base using special compounds. The technology is similar to laying parquet. Glue can also be applied to the joints between individual planks, which are then tightly joined to each other. But this method is now practically not used, with the exception of decorating rooms with very high traffic or high humidity. It will not be possible to disassemble the laminate if necessary.

Installation of cover with type locks Lock involves the connection of individual planks shock method. That is, during operation, the tenon on one side of the lamella is driven into a groove on the other lamella. This coating is already losing popularity due to its disadvantages - labor-intensive work and complex parsing if necessary.

Important! If material with this type of lock is used, the work should be done carefully - control the impact force and use a special rubber or wooden block, placing it at the point of impact.

Nowadays, laminate with joints is most often used for laying this type of flooring. Click. Here the joining occurs due to a tongue and groove, but of a special shape in which the elements are securely joined and connected to each other without the use of impact technology. The panels are joined at a certain angle, after which the lamella is lowered to the floor - at this moment the snapping occurs. This connection allows, if necessary, to easily disassemble the trim and re-install it.

Methods for arranging lamellas

You can lay laminate different drawings, according to the diagrams. Here you can choose any option you like, the main thing is to follow the drawing. There are several most popular layout options. The material consumption will also depend on the choice of method.

Table. Laminate layout options.

To avoid possible errors When creating a drawing, it is better to design the entire work in advance by sketching out a layout diagram on a piece of paper. And take into account that the minimum displacement of the joints should be 20 cm relative to the lamellas laid in the previously installed row.

Important! Regardless of which laminate is laid and according to what pattern, there should always be a compensation gap of about 1.5 cm between it and the wall. Otherwise, the material will be deformed. The area of ​​1 m2 of laminate under the influence of humidity and temperature can increase by approximately 1.5 mm.

When installing laminate flooring, it is important to consider light sources so that the gaps between the planks are less noticeable. That is, they are laid so that they are located perpendicular to the light source (for example, a window).

Also, pre-planning the installation will ensure that the planks in the last row will have sufficient width (100 mm). If it turns out that they will be smaller, then it is better to narrow the first row a little.

Laminate is a type of flooring that is becoming increasingly popular these days. This is due to its high quality and practicality in operation.

When laying laminate flooring on a wooden floor, you should carefully sand the surface, and also replace boards that sag under the weight of a person.

The only difficulty in using this material is preparing the surface on which it will lie. On what surface can this coating be laid? The surface must be perfectly flat: without bumps or pits.

Most often, laminate flooring is laid on a concrete screed.

Laminate classification

A laminate board is a sheet 1-1.5 m long, 6-11 mm thick and 20 cm wide. A laminate board consists of several layers. The top layer is a durable film that protects the material from mechanical damage and also prevents moisture from entering.

Under the film there is a paper texture that determines the color of the laminate. The range of colors of this material is huge: wood, marble, stone, parquet, sand, etc.

Under the textured paper there is a supporting layer of high-strength wood fiber material. The final layer of the material is a paper structure, impregnated with resins and treated with special substances that protect the laminate sheet from moisture. The thicker the laminate panel, the higher its quality and service life.

Laminated boards come in different qualities and are therefore divided into several classes:

1. Low class - 22. This laminate is usually used in low-traffic areas where heavy loads are not provided.
2. Average class – 23. This flooring can be used in residential areas with light loads.
3. Laminate High Quality– 31-33 grades. He is placed in office premises, where the degree of operation and load is high. This material is the most expensive, as it has good characteristics.

It is not recommended to install laminate boards in the bathroom and kitchen. Although this material has high moisture resistance, constant humidity significantly reduces its quality. Therefore, tiles are best suited for a bathtub.

When choosing this floor covering, you should be guided by the calculated loads that will be produced in this room.

The edges of the board are some kind of locks, with the help of which the laminate sheets are joined together. But there is laminate that is joined with glue, so it does not have so-called locks.

The locking laminate, in turn, is divided into 2 types, depending on the snapping method:

1. Collapsible lock – “Click”. This connection is stronger and more reliable.
2. Latch lock – “Lock”. Laminate with this joining method is of lower quality and is considered an economical option.

Return to contents

Preparing the surface for laying laminate

Laminate boards can be laid on the following surfaces:

1. On a concrete screed.
2. On wooden floors.
3. On linoleum.

Exist different technologies preparing the surface for laying laminate. The basis of all is the leveling of surfaces, if the difference over 2 m of area is 5 mm.

If you are planning on a wooden floor in which the flatness deviation exceeds permissible level, then this can be corrected by using a grinder.

By the way, the wooden floor must also be checked for strength. If some boards sag from human weight, then they should be strengthened or completely replaced.

If the horizontal level of a wooden floor differs significantly, then it can be leveled with fiberboard or chipboard slabs.

The best surface for laying laminate flooring is concrete screed . To do this, beacons are set according to level and cement-sand mortar pour the screed. A few days after drying, the screed must be checked for cracks. If there are any, they need to be sealed to prevent moisture from getting under the laminate.

On concrete surface it is necessary to lay a waterproofing film. This is necessary to prevent moisture from entering the laminate from below. The polyethylene film must be laid overlapping each other by at least 20 cm, and the joints must be secured with self-adhesive film.

To insulate the floor, you can lay sheets of plywood 10 mm thick on a concrete surface covered with film. Cork can be used as a substrate. This is a more expensive option, but environmentally friendly and practical.

Laminate can also be laid on top of liloleum. Just before doing this, you need to check the rigidity of the floor and the evenness of the base under the covering. Waterproofing is not used in the case of linoleum.

Return to contents

Leveling the concrete screed

If the floor is poured according to all the rules and the differences in its surface are insignificant, the floor is ready for laying laminate. But if unevenness and bumps have formed after the screed, it must be leveled with a special compound.

After sealing small cracks and removing all small particles from the surface, the concrete base should be primed. Primer treatment prevents moisture from entering lower layers coating and binds the solution particles into one whole.

The prepared surface is ready for pouring the so-called leveling compound. This material is a dry mixture. To prepare it, you will need more than half a bucket of water, into which you should pour this mixture. The mixture is thoroughly mixed with a construction mixer until a homogeneous mass is obtained.

The solution should be quite liquid - the viscosity of liquid sour cream. A liquid solution of leveling compound is useful when leveling small uneven floors. If significant unevenness needs to be corrected, a fairly thick solution will be required.

The process of filling the mass level has a consistent technology:

1. Pouring the mixture should begin from the top point of the floor. In this case, the mixture spreads itself over the entire surface, self-leveling the surface.
2. The spreading mixture can be “helped” by distributing this mass with a spatula.
3. However flat surface It is difficult to achieve with a spatula. Therefore, for these purposes they take a special roller with spikes. By rolling out the mixture with a plastic roller, the surface is leveled and air comes out of the solution. This is important, since the air remaining in the liquid mass forms small holes on the frozen surface. And this cannot be allowed.

It is important to fill in 1 day in advance. The evenness of the surface and its quality will depend on this. The junction points of the casting masses must be carefully rolled out with a roller so that unevenness does not form.

The leveling compound dries quite quickly, and the next day you can even walk on it. However, this surface is not yet ready for laying laminate. The solution should gain strength within 2-4 weeks.

Laminate manufacturers in their advertising campaigns emphasize that the installation of this most popular floor covering has become so simple that anyone can handle it. Who has no experience working with laminate at all. You need to read the instructions, watch the company’s advertising video, and as a result of your efforts, the room with the new floor will quickly be transformed, and the admiring family will extol your construction achievements. Despite the fact that before installing the flooring, your success in this field was not much different from the ability of one of the characters of the English writer Jerome K. Jerome Uncle Podger to hang pictures.

Indeed, the improvement of panel interlocking systems has greatly simplified the installation process. If laying laminate flooring with a Lock lock requires certain experience and skills, then the next generation of locks - Click - does not impose such requirements. And the market already sells laminate flooring with 5g and Megalock locks, and even with aluminum locks. Soon everything will be like in Russian fairy tales, when all you need to do is bring the packages into the room where the installation will take place and hold the flooring without opening the boxes for a couple of days. To adapt to the temperature and humidity in the room. And then you open the packages, and the panels themselves are laid “at the behest of the pike.” However, the devil, as we know, is in the details.

Laying laminate

The work of installing the flooring has become much easier. The same cannot be said about preparing the base before laying. The base must be level, stable and dry. The difference in height is permissible within 2 mm per 2 m. In some cases, a waterproofing device is required before laying the substrate and the laminate itself.

Laying the substrate

Substrates differ in the material from which they are made, characteristics and cost:

Manufacturers claim that the substrate is able to level the base under the laminate. This is an exaggeration. The substrate must provide heat and sound insulation. The underlay can compensate for minimal unevenness in a leveled old wooden floor or plywood base, but no more.

Important! The substrate is laid end-to-end, the joints are fixed with tape. This way it will not move when laying the laminate.

Choosing a installation method

We determine the method of laying the covering: diagonally, perpendicular or parallel to the light (along or across the room). Diagonal mounting is most often used in narrow rooms- this is one way to visually expand them.

It is usually customary to lay the laminate perpendicular to the light source (the long side along the flow of light) - this is a window in the room. In daylight, the joints between the panels are less noticeable.

However, when laying the covering on a wooden floor, you must be sure to focus on the direction of the floorboards. On such a floor, the laminate is laid perpendicular to the floor boards to reduce possible deflection. If the old wooden floor is covered with plywood on top, the flooring should be laid traditional way- perpendicular to the window.

In small narrow rooms without natural light(corridors, hallways) laminate is laid across in order to visually expand the room.

Laying laminate flooring with different types of locks

For installation work you will need:

First, plastic wedges are installed to maintain a 10 mm gap between the laminate and the wall. The first row is laid horizontally from the corner of the room in the direction from left to right. The ridge of the panels of the first row is directed towards the wall. The panels are connected at their ends. The last panel in the row is cut with a jigsaw or hacksaw and laid in a row. You can start the next row with the remaining piece of the panel (provided that its length is more than 300 mm). It is important that the seams in adjacent rows do not match.

Advice. To give panel offsets a more accurate appearance, a technique such as “offset by a third of the board” is used. One third is cut off from the new panel, after which it is laid.

The first and second rows are joined. When using panels with a Lock-lock, you will need to hammer them with a mallet (through a die) to fix the ridge in the groove of the adjacent panel.

Panels Click system laid at an angle of 45° until it snaps into place. This coating can be disassembled if necessary.

The panels of the last row will most likely need to be cut to width. Remember that the cutting line will be covered by the baseboard, so small unevenness in the cut area is not a problem. After laying the laminate on the wooden floor is completed, the wedges are removed and the baseboard is installed. First, see how much you need to trim the panels of the last row. The flooring will not look very good if the width of the panels of the first and last rows is very different. In this case, it is better to trim the panels of both the first and last rows.

Installation of finishing laminated coatings is often even experienced craftsmen raises questions. What are the criteria for choosing flooring materials? Is a chamfer really necessary? Where to start laying - from the window or along the length of the wall? You will find answers to these and other questions related to installation below.

When did laminated parquet appear on Russian market, well-known European manufacturers such as Berry, HDM, Tarkett and others first began ordering special brochures in huge quantities. They provided complete information on the product: production features, selection criteria, plus optimal options for different rooms, styling tricks, etc. And now in each pack you can find an insert (as in the photo below) with quite understandable, but, unfortunately, shortened instructions for installing the sexual material.

Instructions for installation on the insert from the pack.

The first thing you need to pay attention to when choosing a laminate is the wear resistance class of the coating. Namely, the strength of the top layer, the overlay. Good laminate– this is not the thickest and most expensive, but the one that meets the operating conditions. On sale today following classes:

Twenties– basically this is laminated parquet produced by Chinese factories.

• 21 class 6-8 mm – rooms with low load levels (bedrooms);
• 22 class 6-8 mm – low-traffic rooms (guest rooms);
• Class 23 7-8 mm – places of frequent visit (halls, halls, kitchens).

Thirties- a product of European, Russian, or less often Chinese production. This group also includes the so-called waterproof laminate, which can be installed in bathrooms, laundry rooms, etc.

Forties– coatings of European and Russian production.

• Class 41 – 8-12 mm – is assigned to coatings with better characteristics than class 33. Purpose – trade and office, medical and sanatorium, educational institutions;
• 42 class 10-12 mm – premises special purpose, such as bowling alleys, dance classes and halls, libraries, etc.;
• 43 class 10-12 mm – production facilities with difficult conditions operation.

Thus, for a house, coatings with a load parameter of 31-32, no more, are sufficient. Products of classes 33-34 are suitable for small offices, shops, schools and kindergartens. But in organizations and facilities with high traffic in street shoes, it is better to install laminate of 34, 41-42 classes.

Laminate 8 mm for home use.

The next parameter you need to pay attention to is thickness laminated floor. On sale there are products of European, Russian and Chinese production with a cross-section from 6 to 14 mm. The most common products are 8 mm. This is the optimal value for home and office use.

Lamels of 6-7 mm belong to the economy class. Despite the assurances of some unscrupulous manufacturers and sellers, even one millimeter significantly affects the resistance of the planks to loads. In addition, under such a coating you need a mirror-smooth, perfectly flat and very durable floor, because the locks of the laminate are very weak. It is impossible to obtain such a basis without significant costs. Judge for yourself:

• Rough screed of at least 5-6 cm and drying for 28 days;
• Grinding (removal of the weak top layer) and hardening;
• Final thin-layer leveling with a cross-section of up to 2 cm and final sanding.

That is, to install laminate yourself at a cost of up to 450 rubles/m², you will need to invest at least 1,200 rubles per square meter into the base.

In commercial, industrial and retail premises, the most optimal thickness is 10-12 mm. The density of the load-bearing slab has been increased from 8 mm to 850-1100 kg/m³, the locks are very durable, so the installed coating will withstand significant loads and will last the stated 10-15 years.

Types of laminate locks.

The type of locking connection is no less important. The validity of the choice for a particular room depends on this. Let's explain in more detail. They produce coatings with 3 types of locks:

• Snap or Click is the most common connection for Russian and Chinese products. Successfully combines strength and ease of installation. Laying laminate flooring with your own hands with this type of coupling is a pleasure.
• Tongue-and-ridge or Lock - rare. A mixed, unique click-lock has been developed on its basis. We believe it the best decision European engineers, since a laminated coating with such a connection allows you to assemble the planks in three ways: vertical attachment, horizontal shift and at an angle (classically). Convenient for assembly hard to reach places and in rooms with complex geometry.
• Volumetric 3D, 4D or 5D. Very original solution, the essence of which is as follows: a special insert made of hard plastic or metal is integrated into the end part of the slab, which, when assembled, forms a tight connection that is resistant to geometric changes. This great solution for regions with increased level humidity or significant seasonal climate changes.

For residential premises, laminate flooring installed using click locks will honestly serve the period stated by the manufacturer (provided that you purchase high-quality products and not a cheap analogue). Planks with volumetric or mixed locks are best used in private homes, commercial, office or public premises.

For many buyers, it is important to know whether to purchase laminate with or without a chamfer.

After all, there are a lot of articles, including from manufacturers on their websites, that a micro-recess along the perimeter of each plank:

• improves consumer and operational properties coatings;
• hides the imperfections of the base;
• corrects installation errors.

We have to disappoint. A chamfer is just decorative element, giving the assembled floor volume and visual depth. It has no other useful functions.

Layout secrets

Installation of long floor coverings is carried out in several ways:

• Diagonally - the rows are shifted relative to each other by the width of the board. Visually it looks good, but, according to experts, it is only suitable for short-length coatings, less than 1 meter, since the mutual binding of the interlocking joints is not very strong and durable. It's more of a styling method. ceramic tiles and porcelain stoneware designed to look like a solid board.
• “Brick wall” - the rows are shifted exactly half the length of the lamella. This good decision For floor tiles or panel parquet, but not very successful for a laminated floor - the transverse joints will stand out too clearly against the general background and be conspicuous.
• Deck laying - each next row is shifted by 1/3 of the length of the board. Manufacturers recommend this particular installation method as the most reliable and provides correct harness locks Visually, the assembled floor looks very organic.

Having chosen the laying format, think about the layout option relative to the direction of the light flux. Range famous manufacturers, such as Haro, Kaindl, BerryAlloc, Egger and others, is characterized by great diversity. That is, the planks different sizes, from short to very long. Therefore, choosing a coating to suit your layout is not so difficult.

Laminate installation is carried out:

According to the direction of the light, from the window - this option allows you to visually smooth out the transverse seams, creating the so-called effect of an endless board. The best decision for smooth or slightly textured surfaces in one-, two- and three-strip designs. Emphasizes big windows in room. Experts recommend this layout option when assembling the same type of laminate throughout the entire apartment.

Laying in the direction of light.

Towards the most intense movement– will reduce the abrasion of the coating at the joints, significantly increasing it service life. This rational decision for those who cannot decide on the layout.

Laying in the direction of movement.

Across the world or perpendicular to the window - convenient way emphasize long wall, on which the openings are located. The seams, of course, stand out in this case, but the structure of the floor, its texture and depth will be especially clearly visible. Great idea to identify a chamfer or 3D floor pattern;

Laying across the light.

Diagonally, at an angle from 45º to 60º relative to the walls - this is more likely design technique to emphasize the features of the floor, give the room special properties or level out its shortcomings (an overly elongated room, crooked walls, etc.). At the same time, the consumption flooring material(trimming) is not the standard 5-7%, but 12-20%.

Diagonal laying.

Another factor influencing the durability of laminated parquet is the area covered. Layed continuously, in a single sheet, it looks beautiful, but is impractical. The floor needs compensation gaps to prevent seasonal swelling of the slats and damage to the locks. The maximum dimensions recommended by manufacturers are 25-100 m². The exact value is indicated in the instructions.

The right solution is to divide the canvas between rooms using decorative profiles: metal or PVC thresholds, wooden joints, cork moldings, etc.

To avoid making a mistake with your choice, draw your room on paper to scale and create a layout drawing. This way you can identify all the pros and cons and plan the installation correctly.

Tools and materials

To work you will need:

Step-by-step instruction

Start by looking at the packs. The purchased floor must be from the same batch or at least the same year of manufacture. Otherwise, there is a risk that the pattern, tone, and even shape of the lock will not match.

Check that the temperature and humidity conditions are correct before installation:

Installation is carried out in the following order:

Preparing the base

The surfaces are subject to stringent requirements. It must be level (differences no more than 2 mm for every 2 meters of floor), clean (no traces of oil, bitumen, old paint coatings), dry, primed and durable (at least 150 MPa). The check is carried out with a control rod 2-3 m long or a level, as well as a moisture meter. Strength can be determined by scratching the concrete with a nail. The loose base must be strengthened, or even better, completely removed and re-formed.

Underlayment flooring

For laminates with a thickness of 8 mm or more, it is allowed to use old linoleum. But provided that the coating is dense, thin and there are no voids, pits or other defects underneath.

In all other cases, strips are first laid on the screed waterproofing film with an overlap of 15-20 cm. The joints are secured with adhesive tape. Then the rolls or slabs of the substrate are laid end to end.

Laminate assembly

Laying starts from the longest wall, from the far corner towards the doorway. The first lamella is installed, spacer wedges are inserted at intervals of 40-60 cm. The first row is assembled: the narrow end of the plank is placed against the initial one and snaps into place at an angle. And so on until the end.

The next strip begins with a cut board, the length of which should not be less than 30 cm. The slats are placed at an angle and snap into place. To bypass pipes or columns, a segment is cut out of the strip taking into account a temperature gap of 6-10 mm. Then the cut element is installed in place, if necessary, the joints are glued. The surface is decorated with special overlays or plastic moldings.

When installing the last row, all lamellas are cut to the required width, but not less than 5 cm, installed in the opening and pulled into the main sheet using a knocker. The finished floor is decorated with skirting boards and thresholds.

Advice! If you need repairmen, there is a very convenient service for selecting them. Just submit in the form below detailed description work that needs to be done and you will receive offers by email with prices from construction crews and companies. You can see reviews about each of them and photographs with examples of work. It's FREE and there's no obligation.

Laminate is high quality floor covering, which has an extremely beautiful and stylish appearance, as well as unique characteristics.

Well, not everyone knows how to lay it themselves. If you decide put it in your home or apartment laminate, then we will give you advice on how to do it correctly.

How to lay laminate flooring correctly (preparation)

So, if you have decided on the class and color of the laminate, then you can start. Let's start with counting how much laminate flooring is required to lay a particular room.

By the way, the room should be with moderate humidity, and in no case should it be a bathroom, because laminate is afraid of strong moisture, because of which it quickly becomes unusable.

Typically, one pack of laminate contains 10 boards. This The pack is designed for an area of ​​2 square meters. m, but only if you lay the laminated boards parallel or perpendicular to the window.

If you want to lay the laminate at an angle relative to the window, then in this case it is necessary reserve of 15%, and when laying perpendicular to the window, make a margin of approximately 7% .

However, you should know that it is better to buy material with a reserve in any case, since all measurements with subsequent cuts are unlikely to be done perfectly, especially if you are new to this business.

Laminate flooring can be laid at any angle. But: if the floor is laid perpendicular to the window, then the seams will be less noticeable. This method is the most popular.

If parallel, then the seams will be “emphasized” thanks to the falling shadow, and a visualization will be created wide room. Well and laminate laid correctly at an angle, will optically increase the area of ​​the entire room.

Before starting work, you must prepare the surface, on which we will lay the laminate. The main condition in this matter is flat floor. In principle, it doesn’t matter what is on your floor now: an old wooden floor, laminate or just “bare” cement.

To find out if your floor is level, just take building level and walk around the room, measuring the level of slope. If the floor level in the room is acceptable, then you can safely install laminate flooring.

For minor unevenness you can use cement mortar. In the lowlands you need to raise the level. Places that are too high should be removed. On an area of ​​2 sq. m level difference should not exceed 2 mm.

Well, if the level of the old floor requires dramatic changes, then it is necessary to make a screed. Screed is perfect option for leveling the floor. In addition to the screed, you can also lay out the floor plywood.

After purchasing the laminate, it is better to unpack it and let it sit for at least two days. adaptation in the room where it will spread.

Sometimes it happens difference in color shades on laminated boards. In this case, it is necessary to package the boards so that the differences after installation are as little noticeable as possible.

How to lay laminate

Before starting work, the floor should clean and vacuum thoroughly, so that debris does not get into the locks of the laminate flooring (it is small debris that often causes squeaking).

Recommended first layer lay out plastic film 200 microns thick. This type of flooring protects the laminate from water formations underneath. We lay down the polyethylene so that there is a surplus of about 20 cm, which can be trimmed after all the work is completed. For convenience, we fasten the entire flooring with tape.

Our next layer should be from EPPS(extruded polystyrene foam). This substrate is used for depreciation, and also as heat and sound insulator. This material must be laid end-to-end, to avoid thickening. We also secure the joints with tape.

All layers: polyethylene, EPS and laminate criss-cross.

If instead we have concrete base plywood or wood, then you don’t need to put anything under the laminate.

Now let's prepare required tools:

• Jigsaw
• Hammer
• Wooden plank
• Roulette
• Pencil.

How to lay laminate flooring

During laying laminate flooring it will be necessary to shift the end joints to obtain a brick-like masonry. It is necessary to move the joints no less than 30 cm, and if allowed by the manufacturer, then no less than 20 cm. Such masonry helps strengthen the entire future design and does not allow the laminate to “walk”.

You need to know in advance what size it will be last row of laminate, which will most likely be cut. This cut should not be less than 5 cm. If the cut is less than 5 cm, then you will need to reduce the first row.

The best option would be if the first and last boards match in size.

How to lay laminate flooring yourself

You can start laying laminate flooring with any sides of the room.

The boards must be fastened by snapping them into a special lock, as shown in the figure. The main thing in this matter is don't confuse Which side should the laminate boards fit into the puzzles on? On one side, the boards have hollow holes, and on the other, extensions that should fit into the holes.

Thus, we lay the laminate over the entire area of ​​the room with our own hands. To make sure the boards fit snugly, they hit with a hammer, having installed wooden plank, hitting it.

For knocking last board a special bar is required (as shown in the figure and video below).

The plank must not be applied to the board lock, otherwise it can be broken. The wooden plank should be applied to the top end laminated boards. Along the edges of the entire room should be placed small supports about 1 cm thick so that the laminate has room to “stretch” due to temperature changes.

You can dock like this single laminated boards, and in advance bonded row, but in this case, you will need a partner, because the stitched row of laminate may be too long.

Obstacles when laying laminate flooring

While laying laminate You will encounter obstacles such as pipes, door frames, transitions to another type of floor, etc. We will provide some universal tips on how to get around the obstacles that arise so that you can choose the most suitable suitable option specifically for your gender.