How to care for Canadian rose. Canadian rose. Features of Canadian selection

The first person to seriously think about solving this problem was the German Rudolf Geschwind (1829-1910), who lived in Austria-Hungary. To increase the winter hardiness and resistance of roses to diseases, he began to involve wild rose species from Siberia, North America, China and the Himalayas, from the highlands for crossing Central Asia. He bred countless seedlings of varying degrees of decorativeness and stability. Only a hundredth of them have been preserved in historical rose gardens and private collections. But among the 140 surviving varieties there are genuine gems, and gradually some of them are becoming available on the modern flower market.

In Russia for the first time I.V. spoke about winter-hardy roses. Michurin, and even exists whole list hybrids that he bred and described at some length, but none of them have survived to the present day.

However, in no other country in the world has so much effort been spent on breeding roses that can grow and bloom in harsh climates without shelter for the winter, as in Canada. Moreover, the Canadian government has funded a program for breeding such roses for more than 100 years.

Canadian winter-hardy uncovered roses

The founder of this program, one might say its soul, was Dr. William Saunders, the author of the first “Canadian” roses Agnes. Like many breeders late XIX- the beginning of the 20th century, he attracted yellow Persian rose (Rosa foetida Persiana) in order to create a winter-hardy variety with equally dazzling yellow flowers, but only re-blooming and healthy.

And although the rose bred by the Canadian practically does not bloom again, it is still loved by rose growers northern countries for its double soft yellow flowers with apricot-ocher richness in the center and a delightful aroma in which the exciting bitterness of orange is mixed with rose oil, an abundance of flowering and good resistance to both frost and disease.

Inspired by success, Doctor. Saunders, along with several like-minded people, managed to convince members of the Canadian government of the need to create a network of agricultural research stations in different climatic zones countries where professional biologists and agronomists would study world achievements in breeding in the field of horticulture, and rose growing in particular, and would also develop new varieties suitable for trouble-free cultivation in the Canadian prairies. But Canadian breeders managed to make a breakthrough only after attracting a new, artificially bred species - Cordesia roses (Rosa kordesii), which was introduced and named in 1951.

Canadians seized on the novelty, which in Canada turned out to be completely resistant to disease and wintered everywhere without shelter. Particularly active in his work on selection the new kind roses were used by Felicia Sveida, an emigrant from Austria.

She and her followers had the honor of offering the world the most beautiful Canadian roses, named after famous Canadian explorers, for which the entire series was called the Explorer Series. All representatives of this group of roses exhibit, to one degree or another, the characteristics of rose cordesia - glossy foliage, which good conditions does not get sick, a tendency to semi-climbing, and of course, reinforced concrete winter hardiness.

Henry Kelsey- a semi-climbing rose with very bright scarlet-red flowers in large racemes, which gradually acquire pinkish shades. The variety consistently produces a second wave of flowering and does not get sick in normal summers.

John Cabot-also with the makings of a climbing plant, but its shoots are less flexible. The flowers are piercingly bright pink, almost aniline, but the second wave is often delayed.

John Davis- a truly climbing rose with very flexible, although elastic, shoots. It can grow up to 2.5 m and easily takes any given shape depending on the support. The flowering of the second wave sometimes exceeds the first one in abundance and brightness. Clusters of pink flowers are sometimes very large - more than 10 pieces each.

Marie-Victorin- a particularly reliable rose with very beautiful glossy foliage and excellent winter hardiness. IN pink tone its flowers have a coral-salmon note, especially noticeable in the flowers of the autumn wave.

Quadra- a truly climbing rose with magnificent crimson-red, densely double flowers of excellent shape, reminiscent of the ancient “rosettes” of David Austin varieties. The rose is very healthy, disease-resistant, frost-resistant, blooms for quite a long time and sometimes produces up to 3 waves per summer. And although in our conditions the rose still has to be removed from its supports for the winter, it is one of the best Canadian roses from the Explorer series.

Gee. Pi. Connell (J.P.Connell)- another excellent rose with excellent winter hardiness and unusual flower color. They bloom light yellow with a richer center, but then gradually lighten to a soft cream color. The rose blooms well again, and the autumn flowers have a richer tone.

Morden Fireglow- a rose from another series, Parkland, and bred by another author - Henry Marshall. The rose has a different growth pattern - more compact and more reminiscent of a medium-sized floribunda. Flowering cannot be called continuous, but there is always a second wave. And the main advantage of this variety is its orange color, unusual for a park rose. And it is winter-hardy. One of the disadvantages is that it sometimes requires preventive spraying against diseases.

Two semi-double similar to each other are very good yellow roses Morden Sunrise and Bill Reid. In the first, the yellow color, mixing with the pink edge of the petals, turns into a soft apricot yellow. The second variety has larger and pure yellow flowers.

There are many Canadian roses, and most of them can currently be purchased at Russian market. However, a few notes should be made. As recommended by the Canadian Rose Society (Canadian Rose Society) roses Canadian selection must be core-improper. This is one of necessary conditions, providing these roses with the degree of winter hardiness declared by the authors.

Grafted specimens may exhibit slightly different qualities, in particular, a change in the level of winter hardiness.

Therefore, you should only purchase your own roses. And yet, where they were bred, in Canada, and in areas with a similar climate, these roses do not get sick. In the climate of northwestern Russia with its high humidity and in unstable winters, Canadian roses can get sick if you don’t foresee preventive measures protection. However winter shelter They don’t demand from us either.

European winter-hardy roses

In Europe, almost no breeder was interested in the winter hardiness of roses.

And if some of the roses bred there have increased winter hardiness, then this is more likely to be luck than the achievement of a predetermined goal. The only exception is, perhaps, roses from the Kordes company. In the “blood” of many of them there are genes of the Cordesia rose - the same one that largely determined the face of Canadian roses. The varieties have especially outstanding winter hardiness Hansaland and Robusta. Both grow in middle lane and in the north-west of Russia there is absolutely no shelter for the winter and practically no use of chemicals.

In addition to renowned specialists, amateurs are also involved in breeding winter-hardy roses. And the most striking example of this is the German Rolf Sievers and his charming series based on Alba roses. Since each of them had an ancient rose alba as one of their parents Maidens Blush, each of them contains the word Blush in the name. Their winter hardiness has been tested in Leningrad region different conditions wintering grounds, and they showed themselves to be quite winter-hardy. The only reproach that can be thrown at them is that they bloom once.

Many more miracles associated with winter-hardy roses await us. Already now you can create a garden in which uncovered winter-hardy roses will create a bright flowering base, and a variety of spectacular perennials will help add the missing colors.

Florists – special people. They are divided into numerous groups according to their hobbies - hostomanias, heuchera growers, collectors of rarities, lovers of small-bulbous or rhododendrons, etc. Sometimes priorities change, and then a person growing peonies or daylilies suddenly “gets sick” with tiarellas or gentians.Rose growers, in their own way “sick” people, occupy their niche in this diverse and multifaceted community. Don't you think they're sick? Of course, sick! Well, tell me, what kind of person, normal from a generally accepted point of view, would dig deep holes in skinny loam, transporting the lower infertile layer in a wheelbarrow (or dragging it in buckets) to a nearby wasteland, mixing peat, humus and oat (!) straw with sand , going through it all with your hands and rubbing the lumps that come across with your fingers?.. Rose grower! Who rolls their eyes to the sky when they hear the soothing words: “horse manure”? Rosarian! The same rose grower who studies the heat-saving properties of not only spruce spruce branches and lutrasil, but also mineral wool, isopenol and thermoflex. But of course! After all, roses need to be covered for the winter! In particularly severe cases, all other plants generally find themselves on the periphery of interest - they exist exclusively in the context of planning and organizing the next rose garden, as filling and shading crops.

Well, what should an ordinary, ordinary amateur gardener do, in whose garden phloxes, lilies, and decorative foliage plants coexist peacefully, and at the same time he really wants to decorate the area with roses? For those who consider “real” roses to be too complex a crop, there is an alternative - Canadian roses bred specifically for cold climates, or as they are simpler.


They are called Canadian roses.

These plants have been on the Russian market not so long ago - only a few years, but this time was enough to fall in love with northern beauties and understand the intricacies of caring for them. To be honest... - yes, our rose growers did not discover any special subtleties.

Of course, Canadian women are not as sophisticated as hybrid tea roses, are not as fragrant as English ones, not as spectacular as climbing ones, but they have many other advantages: endurance and unpretentiousness, excellent winter hardiness and beautiful flowers rich color.

These roses bloom in our strip in two waves, the second is less abundant. If faded shoots are not removed, the bushes are decorated with numerous orange fruits, which also looks quite decorative in the fall. They practically do not require shelter for the winter, and have another very important advantage- take cuttings well and subsequently grow on their own roots. Thus, by purchasing just one plant, you can propagate your favorite rose without harming your wallet.

Despite its unpretentiousness, the place for the purchased grafted plant should still be prepared properly - dig landing hole, add all sorts of “goodies” to the earthen mixture in the form of humus, peat, compost, complex fertilizer and ash. Plant the grafted rose as it is usually customary to plant them - deepening the graft by 3-5 cm. Or rather, when planting, it is better to place the graft at soil level; over time, the bush will settle just 3-5 cm due to further compaction of the soil during watering.

In the first winter, for insurance, you can and should hill up the base of the bush (15-20 cm high) with a mixture of earth and sand in equal parts, but in subsequent years this procedure is completely unnecessary. Roses winter well without hilling, bending shoots or covering, although some gardeners in other years freeze up to the level of snow cover. But it’s not scary at all, believe me! As soon as they are frozen, they will grow back!

In five years, the ends of the shoots of the Alexander MacKenzie variety froze only twice. The winter period of 2007-2008 was very favorable for roses - unhilled bushes overwintered “standing” and kept the shoots intact along the entire length. Of course, you should keep in mind that much depends on the specific conditions and microclimate of your site.

Young roots of Canadian roses After proper planting, caring for the bushes comes down to regular fertilizers, treatment for diseases and sanitary pruning.

After the first wintering of the Canadians, I raked up the hill with some apprehension to check the state of the grafting. Here a surprise awaited me - thick white roots coming from the shoots of the scion, i.e. varieties. By mid-summer, the bushes had grown, fluffed up, and I had the opportunity to cut green cuttings from flowering branches and check whether the spring “burst” of root-forming activity is really a pleasant feature of Canadian plants.

Cuttings of varieties Alexander MacKenzie, Morden Centennial and William Baffin, 20-25 cm long, were planted quite deep (15-20 cm) on permanent place with fertile soil. The rooting rate turned out to be almost one hundred percent!

For self-rooted future bushes, planting holes were not prepared - in in the right place The top layer of soil was dug up with the addition of several buckets of compost, ash and complex fertilizer. The cuttings were covered with bags made of newspaper - from the sun, and on top - with mini-greenhouses built from five-liter plastic bottles from under the water. With sufficient watering, the young plants exploded in growth so much that in the second half of August the newspaper and bottle protection had to be removed and the buds had to be torn off from some particularly nimble cuttings.

In the fall, the cuttings were covered with soil, which was removed in the spring after the soil thawed. Despite the rather harsh winter that followed, all the cuttings turned out to be alive and well, and at the end of summer they were already small flowering bushes.

Characteristics of some varieties in the growing conditions of the middle zone:

ModernCentennial – beautiful, hardy and abundant blooming rose up to 1 m high. Very decorative! Timely removal of faded flowers prolongs flowering. The second wave of flowering is not too abundant. Black spot affects the animals moderately. The smell is delicate, weak.

Alexander MacKenzie is a tall and spreading bush. The very high resistance to black spot promised on the Canadian website in our strip turned out to be not very high. Still, the climate near Moscow with its abundance of precipitation makes its own adjustments. In some plants of this variety, the flowers burn in the sun, the edges of the petals dry out and become discolored. Such bushes should be planted so that they are covered by light shade during the midday hours.

Adelaide Hoodless - some sources mention it as a powerful bush up to 2 meters high, according to other sources “does not exceed a height of three feet.” I have the second option growing - a low rose with red semi-double flowers, collected in large inflorescences, sometimes producing individual shoots up to 1.20 m high. Resistance to black spot is average. The first two years after planting, the bush developed very weakly, but now, having grown stronger, it pleases with huge clusters of bright flowers that bloom all summer.

William Baffin - maybe this variety will disappoint some, because... too similar to ordinary rosehip, but it has a lot of advantages. The bush is vigorous, very hardy, blooms almost constantly all summer, and by autumn it is decorated with orange fruits, among which single flowers continue to appear. Speaking of flowers, they are semi-double pink and have a special charm, which is given to them by light stains at the base of the petals (individuality!) and bright yellow stamens (attractiveness!). The smell is very weak or absent. This variety is truly resistant to emergencies in the Moscow region.

DavWilliam Baffin2 (Thompson) is exactly as decorative as one would expect from an ordinary rosehip - the spitting image of a rugosa rose both in appearance and in hardiness.

Prairie Joy - the bush is very beautiful in flowering - all covered with large double flowers Pink colour with gentle tints. Disease resistance is good.

No powdery mildew was observed on Canadian roses.

What should I say in conclusion? In order not to plunge into the “pink disease” right away, start small - with Canadian roses. They will perform not only the function “ primary school rose grower,” but they will remain with you in the garden, since you need to make a great effort to destroy them.

But even if you don’t want to complicate your country life by buying real roses, still plant Canadian roses - with minimal care beautiful bushes will grow in your flower beds and hedges and delight bright colors and decorative fruits.


The agricultural technology of “Canadian” roses is the same as that of all other roses. They prefer light and fertile soil, sunny place position (although they bloom in the shade), regular watering and mulched soil. Although Canadian roses are characterized by unpretentiousness, the place for the purchased grafted plant should still be properly prepared. It is necessary to dig a planting hole, add fertilizers in the form of humus, peat, compost, complex fertilizer and wood ash to the soil mixture. Plant the grafted rose as usual, deepening the grafting by 5-10 cm. In the first winter, for insurance, you can (and should!) spud the base of the bush (to a height of 15-20 cm) with a mixture of earth and sand in equal parts, but in subsequent years this the procedure is completely unnecessary. Roses winter well without hilling, bending shoots or covering. Canadian roses reproduce well by cuttings and subsequently grow on their own roots.

It is better to adhere to these general rules:

The frost-resistant, uncovered Canadian rose can survive in a swamp, but it still needs to be planted in a sunny place without stagnant water. Even if you bent the branches, and they turned out to be alive and green in the spring, the root can rot into dust from excess moisture.

You should not plant roses near the southern wall of the building - this place thaws and freezes several times during the winter. Sometimes he won’t survive this and more unpretentious plant than a rose.

You should not overfeed roses at the end of summer, otherwise their tops, even the most winter-hardy ones, will freeze over. By the way, many Canadian roses can easily be cut off with dead twigs or frozen tips and they will come back from the root.

In the first year after planting, it is better to mulch winter-hardy Canadian rose seedlings with dry soil or humus, 15-20 cm of peat and cover them with spruce branches to make it easier to adapt to the specific critical conditions of your region.

In the spring (before the buds open), the “Canadian” plants will only need sanitary pruning. Remove weak internal, unsightly and frozen shoots. Rejuvenate the plants by cutting out old branches (over 3 years old) to the base of the bush and dry stumps left over from previous pruning. Roses will begin to bloom 2-3 weeks after this. In order to achieve continuous flowering, constantly trim off faded inflorescences.

It is recommended to feed roses with liquid fertilizers once a month, pouring them into shallow holes so as not to injure them. root system(for the same reason, you cannot dig fertilizer into the soil under roses). Apply fertilizers in several stages so that they reach deep roots. I feed the roses with humus slurry mixed from 1 shovel of compost to 1 bucket of water. Instead, you can make an ash mash from 2-3 cups of ash and 1 bucket of water. Do not overdo it with the amount of ash, especially at the end of summer, otherwise the roses will begin to produce too tall annual shoots that will freeze in winter. The bushes need a full set of minerals and microelements only once per season (after which they bloom luxuriantly, but are attacked by aphids).

And here is the experience of planting new purchased rose seedlings of one successful gardener:

“I store roses purchased in March in the refrigerator before planting - optimal temperature about 0 degrees. At the first opportunity, it is best to take the roses out into the garden and dig them in. You can plant it in a permanent place as soon as the ground thaws. Before planting roses with bare roots and without wax on the shoots, I always soak them in water for at least 8 hours - completely, “with the head”, then I put a bag on the shoots, and keep the grafting and roots in the Zircon solution for at least another 16 hours . I also soak seedlings with wax on the shoots and peat on the roots in Zircon, removing the peat. I partially remove the wax to make sure that the shoots are healthy. I water seedlings grown in pots abundantly the day before planting. Before planting, I trim all roses so that the length of the shoots matches the length of the roots. If buds sprouted on a seedling during storage, then I most often break out the young shoots that stretch out in the dark - first the roots of the seedling should begin to grow.
I plant, deepening the grafting by 10–15 cm; I plant my own roots lower than they grew in the pot (if groundwater high, it is advisable to plant roses on ridges raised by 15–20 cm, so that the grafting is above the level of the site, but at the same time is underground). When planting, I pour water very generously, even if the ground is damp, so that there are no voids at the roots, and I immediately cover the shoots with earth so as to cover them completely.
I carefully free the bush from the hill only when young shoots appear from the mound of earth. So far, almost all of my roses have taken root, even very dry ones, with already wrinkled bark...”

By the way, returning to the possibilities of Canadian roses to take root in our conditions: we have already gained experience in the successful zoning of these rose seedlings in the Khabarovsk Territory, on the Karelian Isthmus, and in Arkhangelsk. Many amateur rose growers are forced to dig up their “ordinary” roses and store them in basements in winter, but Canadian roses, bent down and covered with lutrasil and film, can easily overwinter almost without snow. And for many of our citizens this is a way out - to have a beautiful, blooming rose garden already in May...

Gardeners who are afraid to grow roses due to difficult care can be offered an excellent alternative - Canadian roses. These new breeding varieties are distinguished by their unpretentiousness and winter hardiness. They do not need to be covered for the winter, because the crop can grow even in the harsh climate of Alaska. Canadian roses are still new to our market, but are quickly gaining popularity due to their unique properties.

Plants can withstand frost down to -45 degrees, even with temperature changes and stems freezing, they incredibly quickly restore their former beauty with the arrival of warmth. In addition, roses of Canadian selection are distinguished by their abundant and long flowering, decorating gardens from July until the first frost. Another advantage is the well-thought-out shape of the shrub; it has stems with sparse spines, bright dense foliage and double big flowers various shades.

Canadian rose

In addition, Canadian roses are resistant to diseases and pests, powdery mildew and they are not afraid of black spotting, they are not afraid of the shadows, they bloom beautifully even in low light. I am pleased with the simple care, easy and understandable propagation, which even a novice gardener can handle. Canadian roses began to be bred back in the last century at the behest of the government, so that even in their harsh climate it was possible to decorate gardens and parks with luxurious rose flowers. And soon the dream of growing rose bushes without labor and shelter for the winter became a reality. Recently, the creations of Canadian breeders have become available here. There are two types of varieties called Parkland and Explorer. The former are characterized by beautiful and varied shades and shapes of flowers, the latter offer climbing and fragrant varieties of roses.

Soil: plant in loose, fertile, slightly acidic soil with the addition of humus and complex mineral fertilizer.

Care: in the spring you need to carry out sanitary pruning of damaged branches.


Reproduction of Canadian rose

Reproduction

Roses are propagated using cuttings; for this, after the first flowering (in mid-summer), young and healthy shoots up to 30 centimeters long are cut from strong, mature mother bushes. It is necessary to choose branches with long legs that will be immersed in the ground, absorbing through the bark nutrients until roots appear. Future seedlings are cleared of leaves with the exception of the top two. Next, the seedlings should be immediately planted in a permanent place so as not to damage the main root branches and weaken the plants.

Before planting, it is advisable to fertilize the soil with peat or compost. After this, the seedlings need to be dug into the ground up to the first leaves and tilted to the north to ensure uniform lighting. In order to avoid voids between adult plants or their excessive density, seedlings should be planted at the following distance:

  1. Varieties of roses with a height of more than one and a half meters are spaced 0.5-1 m apart, between rows about 60 cm.
  2. Varieties of Canadian roses medium height(a meter and a half) every 40-60 cm in a row and between them.
  3. Varieties of roses of small height (up to a meter) at a distance of 30-40 cm.

After planting, the seedlings must be watered and covered with trimmed dark plastic bottles. It is also advisable to shade young plants using shields or hay. By autumn the cuttings will take root, and by frost they will grow stronger and send out young shoots. The technology for growing roses from cuttings is described in the photo. Young bushes should remain under the bottles all winter; only in the spring can they be removed. Most often, cuttings tolerate frost well and survive. Further care for seedlings consists of mulching with peat or fine tree bark in a 5-7 centimeter layer. After the bushes have grown stronger, they just need to be regularly watered with settled water and remove weeds near the bushes to ensure complete heating of the earth.

During the first winter, young bushes need to be covered with earth to a height of 40 cm to protect the stems from frost. It is important to remember that the fragile roots are located close to the surface, so during the care process you should not stomp half a meter from the bush.

Care

Plant care is minimal, the crop grows better in sunny areas, and is not afraid of droughts and sunlight. They are also unpretentious to the soil, but after fertilizing the flowering is more magnificent. Regular watering and mulching is desirable. Simple but necessary care also includes periodic feeding with liquid fertilizers, which need to be poured into small depressions near the bush. Fertilizers are added in several passes so that the nutrients reach the deep areas of the root system. Liquid humus and ash water (2 cups per bucket of water) are also suitable. This will allow you to achieve lush flowering and rapid growth.


Canadian rose pruning

If desired, Canadian roses can be pruned, especially when using hanging species in hedges. Pruning is carried out in early spring, before the appearance of foliage, removing old, ugly and diseased branches at the root. It is also possible to constantly prune faded inflorescences for long-term flowering.

Naturally, you can grow a bush from a purchased cutting to become the owner of a new variety. Despite the fact that Canadian roses are unpretentious and do not require special care, planting a purchased seedling should be carried out according to all generally accepted rules. To do this, you need to dig a hole and add fertilizers (compost, humus, peat, ash and complex fertilizers) into it. When planting, seedlings should be deepened into the soil 5-10 centimeters above the grafting. At this point, the planting is complete; you just need to water the seedlings periodically. In the first winter, it is recommended to cover the seedlings with soil to a height of up to 20 centimeters using a sand-earth mixture in a 1:1 ratio; in the future, no procedures are required for a successful wintering.

Varieties of Canadian roses

As mentioned earlier, all the numerous types of Canadian roses can be divided into two groups: Parkland and climbing Explorer. Let us consider in detail the characteristics of these species and the most common varieties. Park roses They are characterized by winter hardiness, ease of care and resistance to drought and disease. In addition, breeders in Canada and around the world have bred various varieties with a huge variety of flower colors, while their fullness and aroma are preserved. These types of roses look great in flower arrangements and as a free-standing bush, taking root well in any area.

Flowering begins in May with large fluffy flowers - each of them has more than a hundred petals. Color can range from snow-white to dark shades of purple. The shrub blooms until July, after which it rests and blooms again, decorating the garden or park until the first frost. After flowering, the bush is decorated with bright and unusual fruits.


Growing roses

Bush does not require special care, only plants of the first and second years of life should be covered. Park roses should be pruned only from a decorative point of view. It must be remembered that flowers form on mature woody shoots; the greater the number of them on the bush, the more magnificently it will bloom. But after 5-6 years, it is advisable to renew the shrub by cutting off all the old branches at the root and smearing the cuts with garden varnish, this will allow the plant to rejuvenate and regain its original beauty.

The most popular varieties of Canadian roses, which are used by summer residents and not only:

  • "John Davis"

"John Davis" - distinguished by light pink flowers with a strong aroma, grouped in clusters of 10-15 pieces. The bush can reach a height of up to 2.5 meters and two in width, shown in the photo. The rose blooms throughout the summer until the first frost.

  • "John Franklin"

"John Franklin" is a small bush up to 1.2 meters high and 1 meter wide. During the flowering period, it is decorated with red double flowers with a fringe, which gives them a resemblance to a carnation, which is confirmed by the photo. The bush blooms all summer in the form of single flowers and small inflorescences; the crop is immune to most diseases.

  • "Morden Sunrise"

"Morden Sunrise" - blooms large, up to 8 centimeters in diameter, bright orange flowers. The bush itself is neat, up to a meter high, 60-70 centimeters wide, winter-hardy and disease-resistant. The culture is shown in the photo.


Varieties of Canadian roses

Canadian climbers Explorer roses are often used to create hedges due to their ease of care and frost resistance, which makes it possible not to remove the shoots from the supports for the winter, thereby making it easier gardening work. As a rule, such climbing roses overwinter well; snow cover is enough for them, and hilling of the roots is enough for young shoots. In cold, snowless winters, the shoots may freeze, but the bush recovers quickly.

  • "Martin Frobisher"

“Martin Frobisher” is the first rose from the Explorer series, it is frost-resistant, and to this day occupies a leading position. The shrub, up to 7.5 meters high, has almost no thorns, the flowers are pale pink, collected in brushes, the flowering is long and abundant. "Martin Frobisher" does well in both cold and warm climates. The beauty of the Frobisher bush is reflected in the photo.

  • "Quadra"

“Quadra” - shoots can reach a length of 1.5 meters, are flexible, and are well attached to the support. It blooms with bright red buds throughout the warm season and is easy to care for. An example of a plant is shown in the photo.

From all of the above, we can conclude that the Canadian rose tree has a huge number of varieties, which today are quite often used by summer residents to decorate their garden plots. It has also become known that this tree can be easily propagated and care is not difficult if you can trim the bushes and water the tree from time to time and apply some organic fertilizer.

The north of Canada has a rather harsh climate, and growing roses there is not easy. In the 20th century, a government-funded project was created to develop frost-resistant rose bushes. Scientists and breeders have achieved success in their work; the results of their work decorate not only the gardens and parks of Canada, but also the areas of rose lovers from different countries.

The main advantages of the Canadian rose

Canadian rose varieties are so resistant to cold that they can grow even in Alaska. The plant does not die at -45°C, it is not afraid of sharp changes temperatures, the stems recover quickly enough if they freeze. These roses are distinguished by their lush and long-lasting flowering; all summer and autumn, right up to the first cold weather, they will decorate your area. resistant to diseases and pests, easily tolerates shade and does not get sick from lack of lighting. The plant is unpretentious to the conditions; caring for it is more of a pleasure than a chore. Shrubs have beautiful shape, thick, lush foliage bright colors, large flowers of all kinds of colors.

Did you know? The beauty and aroma of roses have always inspired poets, prose writers and musicians to create songs, odes, fairy tales and other works. This is Solomon’s “Song of Songs”, and Rustaveli with a description of the Gardens of Babylon. Shakespeare mentioned roses more than fifty times in his poems; in the huge library of the wise Confucius there were about six hundred volumes about roses or mentioning a flower; in the American states alone, about four hundred songs about roses were composed.

Popular varieties of Canadian roses

The assortment of roses of Canadian selection is represented by two groups: park roses and climbing roses. Let's talk about both in more detail.

The first group is drought-resistant and easy to care for. These varieties look good both when planted alone and in various compositions; they easily take root in any area. Park roses bloom in May with lush flowers containing about a hundred petals. Petals of various colors: from snow-white to inky shade. Their difference is that, having faded in July, after some rest the rose blooms again and blooms until the first frost. After flowering, roses are decorated with bright fruits, which also adds decorative value to them.


Park Canadian roses are represented by the following varieties: climbing roses

Did you know?They are distinguished by flexible branches, which allows you to create hedges using supports. At the same time, they are frost-resistant; there is no need to remove the branches from the support for wintering. The most popular varieties in this series: Martin Frobisher is an unlucky sailor from Britain. In the 16th century, he dreamed of discovering the Eastern Lands, but found himself in North America


. There is some irony in the fact that the first frost-resistant rose variety is named after him.

Proper planting of roses The Canadian rose is easy to grow in the garden: it easily gets along with others flowering plants

. It all depends on your imagination in composing compositions.

Selection of seedlings for planting For planting, choose strong seedlings with long legs.

Leaves are removed from the shoots, except for the top pair. The seedlings should have small roots: do not damage them when planting.

Optimal timing and choice of landing site The best period for planting is autumn. Over the winter, the root system will strengthen and develop, delighting with strong branches in the spring. Canadian roses love the sun, but should not be planted in direct sunlight. The best option

When choosing a location, there will be a well-ventilated, slightly shaded area.Important! Planting on the south side of the house is undesirable. Under the influence of the sun The snow there often thaws and freezes again. Such changes contribute to freezing of the shoots.

Preparing the soil for planting seedlings


Before planting, prepare the site and soil. The hole is dug measuring 70x70 cm. You need to fill the hole with loose, non-acidic soil, fertilized with a complex of organic and mineral compounds. Humus, peat, and fine wood ash can be used as organic matter. After planting, it is advisable to hill the seedlings.

Proper care of Canadian rose

Canadian plants do not need careful care; the plants are not capricious. The main care for Canadian roses takes place in spring and summer. Minimal watering, formative pruning and light shelter for the winter are all they need.

Did you know?Rose is often referred to as christian symbol. In medieval Christianity, this is a symbol of heavenly bliss, consolation in faith; Saint Cecilia wore a crown of roses. In Dante's Divine Comedy, the rose is a symbol that unites the souls of the righteous; in Blok’s poem “The Twelve,” Christ had a crown of white roses; in ancient myths this is an indispensable attribute of Eros and Cupid.

Regimes of watering and fertilizing the soil

Watering roses is carried out with spring period up to summer inclusive. You need to water in the morning or evening, 2-3 times a week. During heavy rainfall, watering is not necessary. Make sure the soil is well moistened. Water at the roots, being careful not to get on the leaves and shoots. In late summer and autumn, watering is not needed to prevent late shoots from growing. Roses are fertilized the next year after planting. In spring add liquid mineral fertilizer after watering.

Bush pruning


Every year the bushes need pruning. Remove old and damaged branches and young growth that is growing rapidly. This way you will form the crown and direct nutrients to the flowering branches. After flowering, remove branches that do not produce inflorescences. Be sure to treat all cut areas with garden varnish.

Sheltering bushes for the winter: is it necessary?

Despite the fact that Canadian roses are the most frost-resistant roses, it is better to cover young bushes for wintering. To do this, you need to hill up the bushes and wrap the branches in craft paper. Thanks to this, the plants will not freeze and will be protected from the aggressive winter sun.

Basic ways to propagate Canadian roses at home

The simplest and most popular methods of propagating canadas are dividing the bush, layering and suckers, and cuttings. Climbing roses take root better by cuttings or layering. This way they take root better and survive the winter. Park roses are best propagated by layering. They form their own root system at the end of the year.

By layering

With this method, a groove is dug next to an adult bush, into which, without separating it from the mother bush, the plant is placed. middle part branches. The stem is pressed with a bracket made from a piece of wire. It is advisable to make an incision in the part of the stem that will be in the ground to form its own roots. The branch is sprinkled with earth; a part with leaves and two buds remains on the surface. If the cuttings have not taken root well, they are left for the winter, covered with peat. Separate from the bush in spring.