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Paving slabs - perfect option for finishing garden paths, areas near the house, garage or recreation area. Installation cost paving slabs- quite high, by doing this process yourself, you will be able to save a lot. We’ll talk further about how to lay paving slabs with your own hands.

Material manufacturing technology and photo of laid paving slabs

Concrete is most often used to make paving slabs. The mixture for tile production contains cement, water, plasticizers and other fillers. There are certain requirements for the manufacture of tiles, stipulated by GOST.

In order for the tile to ultimately turn out to be of high quality and serve its owners for many years, it is necessary to strictly follow the technological process of its production and the dosage of materials. Some expensive tile options also contain clay, granite chips or polymer sand.

The shape of the tile depends on the customer’s preferences; it can be rectangular, triangular, square, diamond-shaped, hexagonal, etc. The color of the tile is determined by the coloring pigment included in its composition. Most often, tiles are produced in sand, olive, brown or beige colors.

How to lay paving slabs: advantages and disadvantages of the material

Paving slabs are a fairly popular material for finishing sidewalks. The scope of its use is quite diverse. With its help, they decorate not only alleys, parks and squares, but also private houses and cottages. This material is distinguished not only by its attractive appearance, but also by its good performance characteristics.

Among the advantages of using paving slabs, we note:

• resistance to frost - excellent quality of this material, ensuring its long-term operation;
• environmental safety - in the production of tiles, substances that are harmless to the human body are used, which do not emit toxic substances during the heating process;
• durability is another important advantage that ensures the popularity of this material in the finishing process; tile manufacturing technology involves the use of special pressing, which makes the tile highly durable and resistant to mechanical damage;
• the tile does not require additional care, it is easy to wash and clean with water;
• resistance to moisture and other irritants external environment provide the possibility of laying tiles outdoors;
• aesthetic appeal is another important advantage of this material; tiles are distinguished different sizes, colors, textures, while it is used for both household and industrial purposes;
• affordable cost is ensured by the low cost of the materials included in the tiles.

However, this material has the following disadvantages:

• the presence of seams between the tiles leads to the accumulation of dirt in them, which worsens the appearance of the coating;
• the ice that accumulates on the tiles in winter makes it slippery;
• if you do not follow the technology for laying the material, the tiles sag in certain places, you have to dismantle them and lay them again;
• if a tile with high porosity is selected, then moisture accumulates in it, which later severe frosts destroys the material.

Main types of paving slabs

Before laying paving slabs yourself step by step, we recommend that you familiarize yourself with the varieties of this material, since the laying technology for each type of tile is individual.

First of all, paving slabs can be solid or pressed. The scope of use of each of these tile options is varied. Cast tiles are used in the process of arranging the area in front of private houses, and pressed tiles are used in the process of finishing city parks, squares, paths, etc.

The technological process for manufacturing tiles uses processing of the dry composition with a vibropress or vibratory casting. We invite you to take a closer look at these processes:

1. Vibration casting involves laying a concrete composition in a special form and installing it on a surface that is constantly subject to vibration. After compacting the composition into the mold, it is removed from the surface and placed in the oven for twelve hours, held there at a temperature of 385 degrees. To improve the quality of the tiles, various plasticizers are added to the concrete composition.
2. The second method of processing the material involves vibrocompression. Concrete composition fits into molds that are installed on a constantly vibrating table. Initially, the matrix is ​​subject to the influence of a press, then it is compacted under the influence of vibration. After giving the composition the required shape, the matrix rises and the tile remains on the table.

For further use of the tile, you must wait until it has completely hardened. The injection molding method for making tiles is cheaper and easier, it does not require additional equipment and technological processes. Therefore, cast products come in a variety of colors, shapes and colours.

Please note that tiles that are overly saturated in color imply that they were used during its production process. large quantity dyes. This factor negatively affects the performance characteristics of the material.

Vibration-pressed tiles are more expensive, since their production requires specialized equipment. This option tiles are more frost-resistant, moisture-resistant, there are practically no pores on them, but such tiles do not have a variety of colors and shapes.

How to lay paving slabs correctly - general information

The method of laying paving slabs depends on its purpose:

• functional - laying material on office roads, pedestrian paths, in front of private houses in places with increased operational load;
• decorative - making beautiful patterns from tiles, original designs etc.

In relation to the base on which the tiles are laid, it should be noted:

• sandy base - needs careful compaction, is used on pedestrian paths, is not suitable for vehicles to move along it;
• the use of a dry cement-sand mixture, as it hardens it promotes the formation solid foundation, suitable for finishing parking lots;
• application adhesive solution on cement based- this method of installing paving slabs is the most expensive, but also the most reliable; initially, the base is poured with concrete, then the tiles are laid with a special glue.

How to properly lay paving slabs on sand

Most often, the shape of paving slabs is rectangular. There are many patterns according to which tiles are laid - the most popular of them are: herringbone, brick or column laying. Paving slabs have gained popularity due to the ease of their installation. Properly laid tiles will serve its owners for decades.

The type of base on which the tile is laid is determined by its thickness and purpose. In any case, it is initially necessary to remove 15 cm of soil from the foundation, level it and arrange a slope for water drainage.

Next comes the process of compacting the area using sand. To do this, the sand is moistened and compacted well as it falls asleep. Pay special attention to the thickness of the material; if the tiles are intended only for pedestrian movement, then a thickness of 2 cm is sufficient, otherwise, given value increases to 4-6 cm.

Before laying paving slabs on sand, prepare materials in the form of:

• sand, the amount of which depends on the total laying area;
• paving slabs;
• border elements;
• cement;
• regular and rubber hammer;
• steel pegs
• shovels;
• level;
• Bulgarians.

After forming a slope of the area where the tiles are being laid, the area should be divided into strips. However, the stripe must be equal to the width of the rule. To divide the area, use pegs and strings. Next, the site is leveled using sand.

After this, the process of directly laying the tiles follows. In order to prepare a sand-cement mixture, you should combine sand with cement in a ratio of six to one. Please note that the sand must be moistened. It is recommended to carry out work in the autumn-spring period. The prepared composition is evenly distributed over one strip, carefully compacted. Next, under the thread that delimits the area into zones, a steel pipe. After carefully leveling the area with a sand-cement mixture, the tiles are laid. Install the first tile starting from the corner, carefully aligning it with the markings. Tap it with a rubber mallet. Lay the second tile in the same way. Start working from yourself, this way, when laying the tiles, you will move along it.

If there are any obstacles on the site, it is treated with whole tiles and then adjusted at the end of the work. After completion of the work, the tiles are swept away from sand. To fill the gaps between the tiles, use the same solution of sand and cement in a ratio of six to one. All cracks must be carefully filled.

Square paving slabs are the easiest to lay. To trim and adjust tiles, use a grinder and a diamond-coated disc. Install borders along the edges of the tiles. To fix them, a thick concrete solution is used. If there are areas that are subject to special loads, for example, near gates, it is preferable to lay the tiles on concrete base.

How to lay paving slabs on a concrete base

Sometimes situations arise when you have to lay paving slabs on a pre-poured concrete base. This method of laying provides greater strength to the material. Vehicles and heavy equipment can drive on tiles laid on a concrete base.

Initially, the area for installation is marked. Next, you should initially install the curbs, having previously calculated their location. If the height of the curb is about 50 cm, then it is placed in a 25 cm trench, while 10 cm of the trench should be filled with crushed stone, 15 mm of the trench should be filled with concrete mortar, then the curb is mounted in such a way as to facilitate the removal of moisture from the tiles.

If the base will be subject to high operational load, then before pouring the concrete layer, it is recommended to reinforce it. Concrete paving slabs should be laid in compliance with all technological nuances. To reinforce the surface, a mesh is used, the cell thickness of which is 15 cm.

To additionally remove moisture from the tiles, it is recommended to install special drainage holes. For these purposes, an asbestos pipe cut into sections whose height is about 150 mm is suitable. For one square meter one piece installed asbestos pipe.

Next follows the process of preparing a concrete solution, which covers an area of ​​15 cm, if there is no reinforcement on it, and 20 cm, if there is reinforcement. When pouring a large area, it is necessary to leave gaps for expansion joints after three meters. To do this, boards are installed, then after the concrete has set, they are removed.

24 hours after pouring, the wooden formwork is removed and the drainage holes are filled with crushed stone. In order for the tiles to adhere well to the surface, they are laid on a mixture of sand and cement.

To mix them together, use a concrete mixer. The thickness of the sand layer is about 10 cm. A vibrating plate or stomper is used to compact the composition. Make sure there is a slope on the surface to ensure water flows away. A rubber hammer is also used to fix the tiles. Work should begin from the curb, gradually moving to the top point of the site. Using a level, the surface is checked for evenness; if necessary, the tiles are adjusted using a rubber hammer. To fill the joints between the tiles, the same solution of sand and cement is used. Through these seams, moisture will flow to the drainage holes and will not accumulate in the tiles.

How to lay paving slabs video:

Paving slabs firmly occupy a leading place among construction products used for paving on city streets, squares and individual plots. Indisputable proof of such popularity is evident in any city, town and private backyard. In this article we will look at how to lay paving slabs on a concrete base.

Most often, tiled covering is arranged:

• on sidewalks and squares;
• around administrative buildings, offices, shopping, sports and entertainment complexes, train stations, airports, educational institutions and other places with high traffic volumes;
• in public parks, lawn and garden paths on private plots;
• private car parking areas and parking lots for large equipment;
• when improving suburban areas.

Main types of products

Depending on the manufacturing methods, the following varieties are distinguished:

• vibrocast;
• vibration-pressed;
• hyperpressed;
• polymer sand.

The composition of paving slabs usually includes sand concrete with the addition of granite chips, limestone, slates or crumb rubber. Basalt chips are added less frequently.

• sawn paving stones with all edges smooth;
• sawn and split with a smooth bottom and top edge;
• chipped, with uneven edges.

In the first two types, the flat top surface can be subjected to heat treatment, which makes it non-slip.

The most common square paving stones with sides of 10 cm and a thickness of 3 to 10 cm.

In what cases is it necessary to lay paving slabs on concrete?

The following can be used as a base for tile covering:

• crushed stone or gravel-sand cushion;
• concrete, reinforced to increase strength steel mesh or individual rods, composite reinforcement or vibrating fiber.

The tiles can be laid on existing concrete screeds or on newly installed ones.

Although in the first case the work is much easier and faster, laying tiles on concrete is necessary to ensure a stable and durable coating in the following cases:

• the presence at the work site of soils with increased susceptibility to shrinkage (recently filled embankments, silty sands, peat);
• heaving clay soils characterized by uneven swelling in certain areas;
• a concrete base for paving slabs is installed when the surface is exposed to significant loads, for example, parking for a car;
• when facing on existing solid concrete bases, when their dismantling is impractical and is highly labor-intensive (blind areas around the house, existing concrete coverings, floors in garages and outbuildings). The decision whether it is possible to lay paving slabs on concrete is made after the results of a thorough examination of the existing old concrete covering. Laying on old concrete allows for significant savings on building materials, protects existing coverage from further destruction and will significantly improve its appearance.

Advantages and disadvantages of laying paving stones on a concrete base

The concrete base for laying paving stones has the following advantages:

• high strength and resistance to the application of significant loads and mechanical stress;
• durability;
• installing tiles on a concrete base minimizes the risk of shrinkage;
• ease of implementation, allowing you to lay paving slabs with your own hands;
• there is no need to use complex expensive technical devices;
• base resistance to chemical influences, water washout, temperature changes;
• on a solid concrete base, the process of leveling tiles in a single plane is much easier, resulting in a clear, straight shape and a perfectly flat surface
• absence of failures caused by poor-quality compaction of the base;
• environmental friendliness of paving with tiles.

Existing disadvantages:

• the technology of laying paving stones on a concrete base is more complicated than on sand and crushed stone pads;
• the need for reliable drainage systems. Having seeped through the seams in the coating, water will remain between the concrete base and the tiles and, when freezing temperatures set in, it can swell and even split the paving stones. To avoid this, paving stones are laid with certain slopes, point water inlets are laid in the concrete, and stormwater systems are installed;
• a concrete base for paving stones is more expensive than a simple base of crushed stone and sand;
• in case of violation technological process After the end of the first winter, painting of the concrete base may occur.

What requirements must paving slabs meet?

When using any types of products for paving, they must meet the following requirements:

• when laying tiles outdoors, frost resistance ≥ 200 cycles;
• compressive strength ≥ 30 MPa;
• water absorption by weight ≤ 5%;
• abrasion during the process annual operation≤ 0.7 g/cm2;
• the purchase of products must be made from one batch, since in different ones, even from the same manufacturer, the tiles will differ in geometric dimensions and color saturation;
• environmentally friendly cleanliness of products, when used both for external and internal work with the installation of cobblestone flooring in warehouses and utility rooms;
• lack of porosity on the surface;
• strict adherence to geometric dimensions with evenness of all edges;
• absence of internal and external cracks, as well as chips;
• naturalness and uniformity of coloring.

Technology for laying paving slabs on a concrete base

The following methods of paving on a rigid base are distinguished:

1. A dry mixture of 1 to 5 cement with sand is poured over the concrete base, the thickness of such a dry solution is taken to be up to 5 cm. Due to the difficulty of creating the necessary slopes for water drainage, a slope of 2 to 5 degrees is created in the process concrete foundation installations. So that moisture does not linger under the tiles in concrete screed pieces of polymer or asbestos pipe are laid vertically, 1 piece each. for every m2.
   After hardening concrete mixture, the top of the pipes is cut off at the level of the top of the concrete and the holes are filled with fine crushed stone. Laying paving stones begins directly from the curb; after laying 4 elements, a check is made to maintain the specified level using a building level. Ensuring the quality of the fit is carried out using a rubber hammer; by lightly tapping, the tile is sunk into a mixture of cement and sand or, if necessary, raised with a sprinkle of dry mixture (prance) or a cement cushion. With this method of paving, labor costs are significantly reduced and costs for materials and labor are saved. Laying is done in front of you, moving along an already paved surface. The downside is the need to thoroughly compact the mixture, and then the finished cladding.
   Tamping can be done with vibrating plates, or if they are not available, you can use a piece of thick, wide board. The method is most repairable, as it allows easy replacement of individual damaged tiles.
2. For mortar, widely used for paving large areas. Cement-sand mortar applied to the base in a layer of up to 3 cm per reachable area by the master and leveled using a notched trowel.
   Laying paving stones on concrete using this “wet” technology is carried out first in whole tiles, taking into account the desired pattern, all mortar is removed from unpaved areas with trowels, cut tiles are installed on fresh mortar after the base mortar has hardened under the solid tiles. Compliance with the required slopes and the flatness of the coating are checked using a level and rules.
   In all methods, the tiles are laid with equal gaps (5 mm), the resulting seams in both of the above methods are filled with grit or simply sifted quartz sand and spilled with water. Movement of people on the laid surface is allowed no earlier than after 24 hours.
3. Glue the tiles to the concrete using a special construction adhesive. With this method, create required slopes possible only on a concrete base, since the glue spreads very thin layer(from 5 to 10 mm) onto a small surface area (≤ 1 m2), since its hardening time, indicated on the attached instructions for use, is short. For the same reason, paving slab adhesive is diluted in small quantities to avoid hardening.
   The seams are filled with the same glue or you can use a garter, as in previous cases. Cured special construction adhesive provides a strong and reliable connection with concrete, so this method is used quite often, but replacing a damaged element without its final breaking will not work.

Step-by-step instructions for paving on a concrete base

Composition and sequence of work:

1. Laying out areas and paths on which paving is planned, securing the markings with wooden or metal pegs. The boundaries between the pegs are covered with lime or chalk.
2. Removal of the fertile soil layer with the construction of an earthen trough, taking into account the location of reinforced concrete curbs or curbs. The depth of the trench under the curbs depends on their height; the top of the curb, to ensure drainage from the paving surface, should be 2 cm below the top of the tiles and rise above the level of the lawn.
3. Installation of curbs or curbs. A strong cord is pulled onto the hammered pegs at the height of the curbs, taking into account the required longitudinal slopes. To collect water flowing from the tile covering, it is recommended to provide trenches for laying trays close to the curbs storm system. Reinforced concrete elements are installed in trenches on a compacted sand base with a small layer of lean concrete or mortar laid on top of it. The elements are fixed with wooden pegs and pouring concrete mixture.
4. Construction of a concrete base. The soil in the earthen trough is carefully compacted and covered with geotextiles to prevent weed germination. Concrete is laid on a compacted bed of sand or crushed stone ≥ 10 cm thick.

In some cases, curbs are installed by craftsmen after the base has been concreted. This option, when independent execution work is not recommended for execution. To protect the edges of the platforms from soil shedding and create a concrete base with smooth edges, formwork is installed from boards 40 mm thick, which will have to be carefully secured. If the curbs are installed immediately, they themselves will serve as formwork. The advantages of this option:

• there are no costs for purchasing materials for formwork;
• time is saved on its installation and subsequent disassembly;
• the concrete mixture will be poured without seeping into the cracks between the boards;
• additional fixation of curbs in the required position.

Concrete is poured no earlier than 24 hours after fixing the curbs. The break can be used for reinforcement (paths that will not be accessed by vehicles and heavy equipment do not need to be reinforced). The concrete thickness is assumed to be 15 cm in the absence of reinforcement and 20 cm in the presence of reinforcement. In the presence of moving heaving soils, the thickness can increase to 40 cm.

Reinforcement is carried out with meshes made of steel or composite reinforcement with a diameter of up to 10 mm and cells from 15 to 20 cm. The grids are located at the top, at a distance of about 5 cm from the top of the concrete, laid on concrete pads. You can perform the pouring in two stages: lay a layer of concrete about 10 cm, carefully level it, fresh concrete lay the grids and pour the concrete mixture to the required level.

When pouring large areas, every 3 m it is necessary to install expansion joints from boards laid over the entire thickness of the concrete. On paths, such seams are made every 6 m. Before hardening begins concrete boards are removed, and the resulting seams are filled with hot bitumen.

1. After what time can I lay tiles? Concrete will gain the minimum required strength in about three days, so you can’t start work earlier. Selected suitable way laying, if the traffic on the surface will be high or it is planned that vehicles and heavy technical equipment will enter it, then it is preferable to do paving with tiles on cement mortars or construction adhesives. If there are obstacles in the lining area (sewage hatches, flower beds, drainage holes, etc.), they are lined with whole tiles.
   Before completing the work, the final design of the junctions of the required configurations is carried out with cutting of the tiles using a grinder with a circle on concrete or circular saw. Upon completion of installation, the joints are filled. You should not walk on the paved surface for about 3 days to avoid damaging the edges of the tiles. If necessary, the required passages can be carried out by laying sheets of plywood over the paving surface.
2. Finally, after 3 days, construction debris and debris are swept away, after which the entire surface is washed with water under pressure from a hose.

Laying tiles on a concrete blind area

Blind areas around buildings are usually made up to 1 m wide. First, the condition of the blind area is examined, after which the following operations are performed:

• the concrete is cleaned of dirt, existing cracks in it are cut out;
• the entire surface of the old concrete is filled with a 2 cm layer of cement mortar;
• the boundaries of future paving are marked with driving in pegs;
• The location of the curb along the edge of the site is planned; the top of the curb should be located taking into account the slope away from the building of 2 cm for each linear line. m. and below the top for paving stones by 3 cm. Then a mark is marked on the base equal to the sum of the height of the tile and the thickness of the preparation for it, to which a strong cord is attached, the second end is tied to pegs at the planned height of the top of the curb;
• according to the arranged markings, a trench is developed for the curbs, then an earthen trough is developed between the edge of the blind area and the curbs;
• Then the work is carried out in the order described above when installing a concrete base and paving with paving slabs.

When performing the work yourself, the cost of paving is reduced by at least 2 times. Additionally, you can read technical literature or consult with specialists about how to properly lay paving slabs; this will help avoid damage to expensive materials and ensure the durability of the coating.

If previously all paths were filled with concrete or asphalt was rolled over them, now paving slabs are becoming increasingly popular. It is very affordable; you can find any options among different textures and colors. Most often, we trust professionals. This is not a complicated process and with step-by-step instructions for laying paving slabs, even beginners can handle the job.

In this article we will look at three installation methods (on concrete, a sand bed and a mixture of concrete and sand), and also give some tips on how to choose and which paving slabs to buy for your site.

The choice of tiles is huge, there are cheaper and more expensive options. The first ones will serve you for many years, but the second one is not so interesting in terms of variety, and it lasts much less years.

For production, natural hard or artificial stone is used, ceramic materials or soft rocks (flagstone, sandstone), colored concrete or polymers of sand mortars.

Good tiles are made using the vibration pressing method. It becomes more durable and withstands frosts well, but loses its color and becomes not very bright.

Stamped tiles are of low quality, most often made at home.

For home use, take tiles at least 4 cm thick. If there is supposed to be parking on the site, then we take from 6 cm. If you suddenly decide to tile the road near your house, then consider tiles from 8 cm.

Preparatory work

Cooking necessary materials, to start laying paving slabs with your own hands.

We will need :

We notice our future paths on the site plan. Be sure to take into account the location in relation to buildings, flower beds and other structures, as well as the direction, drains and possible slopes. If we are covering a space for a car, we provide a width so that a person can easily walk nearby.

Using a tape measure, we mark the pegs and cord according to the plan. Don't forget to leave 10 cm on each side for borders.

We begin work on the ground

If you plan to start soil for flower beds and beds, then simply level the surface for the paths.

But if you are satisfied with the existing soil, then be sure to remove 30-35 cm of soil along all the markings. Fill the bottom with sand and compact it well. In order to efficiently drain water, as well as protect against the growth of weeds, we lay geotextiles on top. Lay out taking into account that the next layer overlaps the previous one by 15-20 cm. Fold in the edges by about 20 cm.

Depending on the type of soil, we choose one or another installation method. For example, for moving soil, it is best to use a concrete base, while denser layers allow for a sand-cement option.

Drainage

On top of the geotextile, pour crushed stone to a level of 15-18 cm. Melt and surface water, and water will not accumulate on the path, which will protect it from freezing during the cold season.

We compact everything well and sprinkle it with sand. We cover it with another layer of textile, which will allow water to pass through, but will not allow it to seep back.

If you use a concrete base, then we provide slopes for efficient drainage of water (1 cm per meter). Provide gaps between the tiles and the curb.

Suitable for borders various materials, starting from slate and ending with stones. Traditionally, most people choose a ready-made concrete curb.

However, now you can find plastic options on the market. They are cheaper, easy to install, and will last a long period of time.

We carry out installation immediately after laying the drainage layer.

Additional tile processing and installation options

Under such a solution it looks more attractive, and salt deposits and mold fungi do not appear.

Set aside the tiles with defects, dip the rest in hybrophobic liquid, dry and repeat the procedure.

Remember that larger tiles weigh more, so this is immediately reflected on the surface; the surface must always be adjusted to the overall level.

It also causes inconvenience when moving.

Options for laying paving slabs

As we already mentioned, there are three bases for tiles.

Think over communications in advance, otherwise you will have to dismantle everything and lay it out from scratch. You can lay gaskets; to do this, install a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm into the structure.

So, let's look at all three options in more detail.

Laying paving slabs on a concrete base

We start with reinforcement metal mesh 10x10 cm. You can also use leftover pipes, wire, fittings and other unnecessary materials.

Just don’t forget to fasten them together with wire. The mesh must be raised by 3-5 cm; for this you can build metal stands or place stones.

Prepare the solution: mix cement 400 with sand and crushed stone in proportions 1:3:5.

Filling must be done at one time; if a large amount of work is planned, then the easiest way is to order a ready-made solution on site. The cost will not increase much, and the process itself will be faster.

After 3-5 days you can begin laying tiles.

The process itself is very similar to working with tiles.

Remember that installation should not be carried out during or after rain.

Laying tiles on a sand-cement base

Features of laying paving slabs on sand

We make a three-layer base.

The main subtleties of laying paving slabs

As we mentioned, each base has its own technology for laying paving slabs. We’ll talk about the features now.

When using a concrete base, each tile is laid on the mortar, the cement should fill as much as possible all the seams, the thickness of which is no more than 0.3 cm.

In this case, the installer lays out the mortar in front of him, stepping on the already reinforced tiles. Be sure to check with a level that the installation is correct, and at the end of the work we rub down the seams.

With a cement-sand or sand base, the same installation work is performed. The installer, in this case, places the material in front of him, and he moves backwards, without stepping on the finished canvas. You can add or, conversely, remove unnecessary sand. The tiles are tapped well against each other with a rubberized hammer.

Fill the path well with water, and repeat after a couple of days.

A few tips to help you work efficiently and efficiently:

Proper grouting

After laying the slabs, be sure to grout the joints in several stages:

Nowadays you can also buy a ready-made mixture in stores and not make it yourself.

Don't forget to sweep and wash the paths, this will help the tiles remain just as beautiful, and they will last much longer.

In winter, clear snow with a wooden shovel, without using ice axes. Do not sprinkle with products that contain salt.

Paving slabs are an ideal option for covering paths and areas in front of country house. She's different increased wear resistance, practicality of operation, highly aesthetic appearance. Installing it is not a very complicated process, but laying paving slabs with your own hands requires compliance with certain rules, which are described in our step-by-step instructions.

In our article we will tell you how to properly lay paving slabs with your own hands, what tools and materials you will need for this, and also give useful recommendations in video tutorials.

The main advantage self-installation is to reduce the cost of the process as much as possible. You have to pay for any work, and specialist services cost a lot today. In addition, when installing it yourself, you can do everything without haste, following all the recommendations.

At the same time, it is quite difficult to find workers capable of laying the slab efficiently and correctly. The desire of any team is to complete the order quickly in order to receive payment, but quality often suffers as a result. When installing it yourself, the owner will be able to take into account all the features of his site, since only he knows the weak points well.

It is unlikely that a team of hired workers will take these nuances into account so carefully, unless they demand exorbitant payment for their work.

The disadvantage of self-installation is the need to carefully study the rules, additional costs for purchasing special tool for work.

Basic types and selection rules

The composition of the paving slab is a cement mixture with the addition of various dyes, mineral components, and plasticizers. Use of raw materials High Quality guarantees compliance with GOST, therefore, the durability of the coating.

Correct dosage, adherence to technology – quality guarantee, therefore, it is worth purchasing material from trusted manufacturers, and not chasing the cheapness of handicraft production.

It is advisable to give preference to an option that has the addition of granite chips, polymers, and high-quality clay. It is better to refuse the option consisting exclusively of a concrete-sand mixture, since it will not last long.

Modern manufacturers offer consumers two main types of paving slabs:

• . It most often has a rectangular, square or diamond shape, uniform colors.
• . In production manually, therefore differs more color scheme, maximum variety of shapes.

When choosing, the quality of the base is taken into account, functional purpose of coverage areas. Experts advise choosing material small sizes, as it is more resistant to cracking. It is important to consider the thickness of the blocks. The minimum is three centimeters, for parking and vehicle driveways – at least 5-6 centimeters.

The color and shape are selected to be in harmony with the decoration of the house building, taking into account your own preferences. Installation of diamond-shaped and rectangular slabs is more complicated and requires the use of some work skills. It’s easier to install a curly one because the flaws are less noticeable.

IMPORTANT. When choosing a stove, you should take into account its environmental friendliness, since heating the surface in summer will cause the release of harmful substances, which will adversely affect the health of the family.

Each slab is carefully examined and its quality assessed. It is worth refusing to purchase material that has the following disadvantages:

• Heterogeneous structure of the outer side.
• The color is too bright.
• Uneven coloring.
• Stains dark color on the other side.
• Clumps of material in the structure.
• Smooth, high-gloss surface.

ADVICE. By knocking two copies against each other, you can determine their quality: a dull sound indicates the fragility of the material. A high-quality stove should be loud.

We will tell you everything about it on the pages of our website! You will learn a lot useful tips and recommendations.

Preparatory work

Before starting work, you need to purchase tiles, Consumables, tools.

How to calculate the amount of material needed

The calculation method depends on the drawing that is supposed to be posted. Complex compositions require a special approach and specific recommendations. The quantity is calculated based on the selected pattern, after drawing up a preliminary sketch plan of the entire site.

If simple forms are chosen, it is worth remembering school course geometry and calculate the area of ​​a specific geometric figure that the site or its individual parts represent.

The area of ​​all parts that need to be covered will be taken as a basis. The number of tiles per square meter is indicated by the manufacturer on the packaging, therefore, by simple mathematical operations it is calculated required amount purchased kits.

Experts advise purchasing material in reserve one square meter for each part of the surface to be coated. This is necessary so that there are fewer joints in oblique corners.

REFERENCE. There are special online calculators, which automatically calculate the number of tiles after entering parameters (area of ​​the site, size of blocks). Using it, accurate calculations are made.

Additionally purchased border, which is set to prevent blocks from moving along the edge. Its quantity is calculated according to the length of the perimeter of the covered area.

When purchasing material and planning the size of the covering, you need to try to make calculations in such a way that there is no need to lay cut pieces along the edges. The fewer cut pieces there are in the coating, the more aesthetically pleasing it will look.

What you will need

Installing paving slabs with your own hands requires using special tools:

• Tamping
• Roulette.
• Rubber hammer.
• Line or cord for marking.
• Rule.
• Level.
• Grinder with discs for concrete.
• Master OK.
• Rake.
• Broom.

In addition to tools, consumables are purchased:

• Sand (for a standard area 2-3 tons).
• Cement.

Preparing the base

Careful preparation of the foundation is the key high-quality styling. After making the plan, Marking is carried out using pegs with a thread stretched over them. Soil quality is preliminarily assessed various parts, the sides of the slope are determined. If it is located towards the house and yard buildings, a drainage system is first thought through.

The sites are carefully leveled, soil 15-20 centimeters high is removed. Then the surface is compacted. At the same time, drainage and sewer pipes are being installed.

After leveling and compacting a crushed stone cushion is poured. For garden paths made of paving slabs with your own hands, the thickness of the layer is 10-15 centimeters; for parking areas and roadways, the thickness of the crushed stone doubles.

The pillow is compacted special machine , covered with geotextile, which will prevent sand from penetrating between the crushed stone. In areas with weak, loose soil, geotextiles are additionally laid under crushed stone.

The prepared pillow is filled with cement-sand mixture (1X5), sand is poured on top of such a height so that before compaction the slabs are 1 cm above the surface.

ADVICE. To prepare the base, it is advisable to use guides made of boards along the height of the pillow. Especially careful preparation requires a foundation if the site has soft soil. It is compacted after moistening.

The entire further process will depend on the quality of foundation preparation.

Important to avoid mistakes! If you want to know how to lay paving slabs with your own hands, watch this video of a man who decided to lay them incorrectly:

Safety precautions

Organization of work requires compliance with safety measures:

• The workplace is cleared of foreign objects.
• If the slab is laid on a concrete base, the notches are made using safety glasses.
• All work is carried out with rubber gloves so that the skin is not injured or corroded by the cement mortar.
• Sorting the material and processing the edges of the tiles is carried out using thick gloves.
• Knee pads are used to protect the legs.

On our website you will also find out! How to work with such surface paving elements?

Read about the features of laying porcelain stoneware and how to properly prepare the base for this material.

You will learn how to make steps from paving slabs with your own hands by reading our following material:.

How to lay it correctly: technology and procedure

After preparing the base for laying tiles with your own hands, the following steps are necessary:

• Stretch the cord along the edges of the paths and platforms using stakes.
• Install borders along the borders, digging them into the soil to the desired height. For greater stability, the curb is fixed with cement mortar.
• To drain water, install drainage. The pipe is wrapped in geotextile and laid in a prepared trench next to the curb.
• Next, starting from the curb, they begin to lay the slabs. The rows can be placed diagonally or in a straight line. The rows are placed away from each other so that the prepared base is not destroyed when workers move along it. The laid paths must be strictly parallel to the stretched cords.
• To ensure uniform gaps between the tiles, special crosses are used.
• The slab is laid on a sand cushion and tapped on top with a hammer to ensure a tight fit to the surface. If the distortion of some specimens is noticeable, the blocks are raised and poured under them cement-sand mixture for alignment. To control the horizontal level, a building level is used.
• If there are corners or obstacles along the laying path, they should be avoided in whole copies. The remaining spaces are then filled with suitable fragments. The tiles of the required shape for these purposes are cut using a grinder with a concrete disc. Filling these areas is done last.
• After laying all the rows in a continuous area, the seams between the tiles are filled with a mixture of sand and cement. Any excess that does not spill into the cracks must be brushed off with a broom.
• After all the gaps are filled with a sand-cement mixture, the surface is watered with water from a hose so that the blocks are fixed together. Be sure to put a diffuser on the hose so that the stream of water does not dislodge the backfill mixture.

Process correct installation You can watch paving slabs with your own hands in this installation video tutorial:

Another useful video tutorial on how to correctly lay paving slabs with your own hands - what is needed for this and how to lay them correctly:

IMPORTANT. When laying each section at the end of the day, it is covered with a sand-cement mixture and swept thoroughly. If this is not done, accidentally introduced moisture can ruin the appearance of the coating even before all work is completed.

Coating care

To ensure the durability of the coating and maintain its beautiful appearance It is necessary to follow the rules of caring for it:

In fact, this is a simple process that you can completely handle on your own, but you shouldn’t rush it. The work requires thoroughness and painstakingness; it is better to do the work slowly, carefully following the recommendations of specialists.

Often, people born and raised in the city refuse to purchase country houses and plots of land, since they associate the latter with dirt, damaged shoes and many other unsightly moments for city dwellers. However, civilization does not stand still, and today craftsmen have at their disposal many ways to organize space summer cottage and beautification of suburban areas, thanks to which you can forever forget about impassable dirt. One of these methods is to arrange the sidewalk using tiles, which have strength, durability and high decorative characteristics. Despite the fact that laying paving slabs is not the only way improvement of personal territory, they often give preference to it, for its simplicity, relative cheapness and the absence of the need to use specialized equipment (for example, an asphalt roller when paving an area or a flat concrete compactor when concreting an area). One more distinctive feature tiled covering, which can be attributed to the advantages, is the ability to take a technological break in the process of arranging the sidewalk, which cannot be said about asphalting and concreting. Considering the relevance of the topic, we considered it necessary to talk about the process of laying paving slabs. Due to the fact that an integral stage of laying tiles is preparing the site, in this article we will answer the question: “How to prepare the site for paving slabs?”

Requirements for the base for paving slabs

How to lay paving slabs and be satisfied with the result? To do this, it is necessary to comply with a certain set of requirements that are mandatory when laying the specified material. Many of them relate directly to the quality of the base for paving slabs. The basic requirements are as follows:

• Drainage, the need for arrangement of which is explained by the importance of removing accumulated water and preventing its destructive effect on the sidewalk;
• Arrangement of a waterproofing system, namely the use of a special substrate, will prevent excessive accumulation of moisture;
• Organization of drainage, which implies a slope of the terrain and a system of special drainage grooves;
• The surface should be as flat as possible, which will ensure ideal placement of the shaped paving elements;
• The presence of a recess that will provide the opportunity for arranging a drainage system and the absence of movement individual elements and, as a consequence, deformation in case of soil subsidence.

What do you need to prepare before laying tiles?

Before you begin preparing the base for paving slabs on the street, purchase all the required tools and materials:

• Paving slabs and the corresponding estimated number of curbs required to finish the area allocated for paving;
• Metal or wooden stakes or pins;
• The horizontal level that will be needed to fit the horizontal paving stones;
• A regular watering can or hose with a divider needed for humidification sand cushion and grounds;
• A metal corner, a rake and a channel necessary for leveling the base bedding;
• Broom.
• In addition, to mark the site, you will need twine, a shovel and other garden tools to remove the top fertile layer of soil, construct a trench and install borders.

How to prepare the ground for laying paving slabs: main steps

Laying paving slabs is a multi-stage process, including several stages:

• Preparing the site for laying paving slabs;
• Arrangement of the so-called underlying layer or cushion for paving slabs;
• Direct laying of paving slabs.

Soil stabilization and subsequent preparation

Preparing a site for paving slabs includes a set of measures, the complexity of which will vary depending on the initial condition of the soil. If it is relatively flat, the preparatory measures will be quite simple: etching and uprooting of vegetation, final leveling of the soil (removing hummocks and filling in holes) followed by compacting it.

If, during the process of leveling the soil, you encounter large uneven surfaces over large areas, you must use a special tool to prepare the foundation. construction equipment such as excavators, scrapers and bulldozers, as well as modern instrumentation, e.g. laser level, called a level.

Arrangement of the underlying layer

After you have stabilized the soil, eliminating all unevenness on its surface, and have marked it, followed by setting elevation marks, you can begin arranging the underlying layer. This stage is just as necessary as the previous one, and it is impossible to level the area for paving slabs without arranging the underlying layer.

The underlying layer is a kind of multilayer cake, the installation of which will require a number of bulk stone materials used to prepare the base for paving slabs. They are laid on stabilized soil in a certain order, depending on the expected loads on the sidewalk, followed by mandatory compaction of each layer. The thickness of each layer is also a variable parameter and depends on the population external factors. The function of the underlying layer is as follows:

Thanks to the presence of the underlying layer, the tiles are protected from destruction due to ground movement in winter;

After arranging the underlying layer, they are visually leveled the smallest defects surfaces that remain unnoticed during the soil stabilization process, resulting in a more aesthetically pleasing surface.

There are a number of technologies in accordance with which the underlying layer is prepared. The choice of each of them depends on the expected load on the installed sidewalk and its operating conditions.

If the sidewalk will be subject to loads from moving trucks, or you encounter problems with the natural soil on which installation will be carried out, it is recommended to give preference to the first option, which involves laying the following layers:

• Cement mortar (layer thickness is 3 cm);
• Reinforced concrete (layer thickness - 10-15 cm).

If you plan to install a site intended for passenger vehicle traffic, preparing the underlying layer involves laying the following materials:

• Cement-sand mixture (layer thickness at least 3 cm);
• Sand or screenings (10 cm layer);
• Crushed stone, which is laid in a layer of 20 cm.

If the path being installed is intended only for the movement of pedestrians, for its arrangement it is necessary to prepare an underlying layer consisting of the following materials:

• Cement-sand mixture, the quantity of which should be sufficient to prepare a 3-centimeter layer;
• Sand (layer thickness is 10 cm);
• Crushed stone (layer thickness is also 10 cm).

How to choose the most suitable technology for arranging the underlying layer?

As noted earlier, when choosing the necessary technology for arranging the underlying layer, first of all, it is necessary to take into account the conditions under which the paving slabs and the path as a whole will be used. If paving slabs will be used for installation only pedestrian paths, the first option for preparing the underlying layer, which involves concreting, is losing its relevance. This is due to the additional costs that concreting may entail.

Important! Often, owners of suburban areas and plots located within the city had to deal with soil subsidence due to the high content of loam. In such cases, experts recommend giving preference to the second option for preparing the underlying layer intended for the movement of passenger vehicles.

How to level the yard for paving slabs if there is a need to arrange the underlying layer in accordance with various technologies? When one section of the territory, paved with paving slabs, is designed for the passage of passenger vehicles, and another - only for pedestrian zones, it is quite logical that it is necessary to give preference to options that can withstand higher loads. However, experts believe that this unnecessary waste money and recommend combining several options on one property. This will minimize the cost of laying paving slabs.

Laying paving slabs on the ground

If during operation the path paved with paving slabs is expected to be exposed to only low and medium loads (traffic of people and cars), paving slabs can be laid directly on the ground. In this regard, it does not need to be stabilized by concreting followed by reinforcement of the base.

But, despite this, it is necessary to take into account the characteristics of the soil and the intensity of the loads placed on the path and, based on the data obtained, select the right materials for arranging the underlying layer and lay it. In addition, the modern construction market offers a number of underlying materials on which paving slabs can be directly laid. The use of these materials ensures natural circulation of precipitation, which allows the soil to “breathe,” which is not possible when concreting or asphalting the soil.

Arrangement of the underlying layer: a brief description of the options

How to level the area for paving slabs? IN modern conditions the most popular options are:

• Laying paving slabs on a track;
• Laying paving slabs for screening;
• Laying paving slabs on sand.

Important! When using the same materials to prepare the underlying layer, the parameters finished design, such as the thickness of the underlying layer and the presence or absence of geotextiles, may vary. All this is calculated in accordance with SNiP, taking into account the expected loads and soil type.

Laying tiles on a border

Laying paving slabs on the edge is relevant if the sidewalk has a significant slope. This is understandable. Gartsovka is a dry cement-sand mixture, the setting of which occurs under the tiles when the first precipitation falls. A similar effect can be achieved if you water the tiles with a hose after laying. This technique will ensure reliable adhesion of the tiles and prevent them from sliding towards the slope.

In addition, experts recommend giving preference to this option even if the ground on which the paving slabs will be laid does not have sufficient water absorption. In this regard, when choosing between two options - laying tiles on sand or on a prism, give preference to the latter, since insufficient water absorption of the soil can cause sand to be washed out from under the tiles.

Important! When laying tiles on a tile, remember that they are prone to fading quickly under the influence of the scorching sun, and therefore, when working under the scorching sun, try to speed up as much as possible and reduce the working time, as well as provide shade. In addition, the use of wet sand reduces the storage time of the cement, which is due to the absorption of moisture by the cement and the start of its hardening process.

Laying tiles on sand

This method is traditional when arranging sidewalks. Laying tiles on sand is in many ways similar to that when using a pliers. It is also produced on a layer of compacted gravel 10-20 cm thick, which serves as a cushion for paving slabs. In this case, the thickness of the sand layer should not exceed 10 cm, which will prevent excessive shrinkage. Having given preference to the technology of laying paving slabs on sand, it is necessary to prevent sand from being washed out from under the tiles in advance. To do this, along the perimeter of the area paved with tiles, it is enough to arrange a curb, which is concreted on the outside with a mortar made from cement of a strength grade of at least M100.

A layer of geotextile laid under a layer of sand embankment will also prevent sand from being washed out. Laying geotextiles can also be carried out using another, more advanced technology, which involves the use of two layers of geotextiles - one is laid directly on the stabilized soil, and the second on a compacted layer of crushed stone.

Laying tiles on screening

This option is considered the most budget-friendly alternative to the first two methods of laying tiles. Granite screening is a material that is a waste product from the production of crushed stone and consists of crushed stone sand and small fragments, thanks to which it can be used as a base for paving slabs, as well as a crushed stone and sand layer. At the same time, it is easily compacted and, unlike sand, has less shrinkage.

Important! Despite all the benefits of dropout, it independent use not recommended if the soil is unstable and has low water absorption. In such cases, a drainage layer of crushed stone is installed, after which the paving slabs are laid on screenings. In these cases, the inclusion of geotextiles in the laying technology is also welcome.

Laying paving slabs on a monolithic base

This technology is considered one of the most expensive, but it is often impossible to do without it. We are talking about those cases when the operation of tiled paths will be carried out in conditions increased loads, which the compacted bulk foundation is not capable of accepting.

The essence of this technology is to create a monolithic platform that is not susceptible to problematic soils that are prone to deformation, cracking and subsidence. In addition, the platform will help to evenly distribute loads on the sidewalk. The technology for creating a monolithic base includes two options:

• Laying paving slabs on asphalt;
• Laying paving slabs on concrete.

The first option is used in cases where the old one has worn out. asphalt pavement, however, there are no plans to dismantle it. In this regard, the most worn areas of asphalt are removed and filled with concrete. Existing holes are also filled with concrete. After this, they begin to directly lay the paving slabs on a 2-centimeter layer of mortar.

The second option involves installing a concrete pad on a pre-prepared reinforcement mesh frame with a cell size of 10x10 cm. Laying tiles on a concrete monolithic base is most often practiced on unstable soils, as well as in places with constant intense loads, for example, in parking lots.

After you have prepared the base in accordance with one of the technologies discussed above, you need to begin laying the tiles directly. There are many laying technologies, but we will consider the most common option - laying along guides.

Pegs are installed along the perimeter of the area where the tiles will be laid. Subsequently, elevation marks will be placed on them, which are connected with nylon twine. Thanks to this technique, we get the top of the future tile canvas. The tiles are laid in strips 3 m wide, the length of which is determined by the distance from one stretched twine to another.

It is recommended to start laying tiles from the corner closest to front door home, or from the main element of the landscape. In the process of laying tiles, it must be pressed as tightly as possible to the base, while each paving element is compacted using a rubber hammer and wooden block. To do this, the tile is laid on the base, after which, by tapping it with a rubber hammer through the block, it is pressed as much as possible. Having completed laying the tiles, they are processed using a vibrating plate, which will allow finishing material finally fall into place. Thanks to this technique, the surface of the tile will become as smooth and even as possible, and water will not accumulate on its surface.

When laying tiles, take care to purchase special corner tiles with rounded edges, with which you can lay out corners and individual ornaments.

Upon completion of installation, the tiles are covered with sand. For these purposes, you can use special colored sand to match the color of the tiles or contrasting shades, which will make the coating more decorative.